Asking for help getting started on a control panel for UAII cab

[Tzakiel]

Hi everyone... I am going to be getting a UAII cabinet and have resolved to make my own controls. For one, their price for the finished panel is quite expensive, and two, I want to have a Japanese style control layout and parts, which neither north coast or xarcade seem to offer.

So here I am. I have some knowledge of Japanese parts because I replaced the joystick and buttons in my Hori HRAP3 stick for ps3. I love that setup, so I know I want the arced button layout and Sanwa parts.

Here are the questions keeping me from getting started:

1. Looking at Sanwa parts... They offer the jlf and jlw models of joysticks. They also have several button styles. Given that I think I want to use mdf board and a plexi sheet (to sandwich artwork) for the panel, I assume I need the right stick and buttons for that type of install. Any idea what parts are the right ones? I know snap in buttons are for metal panel only, what about jlf stick?

2. What should the dimensions be for the control panel, given that I want it to drop into the UAII cabinet? Truthfully I am not even sure how this is supposed to work, only that many others have done it. Anyone know exactly how I should be designing the dimensions of this thing? I assume there is a width and depth I should be shooting for, and some sort of way to make it fit into the drawer(?) of the UAII. This is where I really need help. I see a lot of folks building these hinged drawer/box things and I don't even know what the basic idea is here yet. Does my panel attach to the UAII keyboard drawer or am I building something totally separate? A sample plan or walkthrough would be great help, if such a thing exists.

3. Once I determine the parts to be used in 1. above, I assume the MDF and plexi should be a certain thickness. How do I determine the right type of mdf and plexi to order? And I read somewhere that I will need to rout a groove for t molding which accommodates both the mdf and plexi thickness. Is that correct?

Also could use some perspective on which tools I will need and what the basic process is to get the panel laid out and cut. I will use a button template from slag coin. But I am not really sure how one cuts the curve for the front of the panel, or how to make a groove for t-molding, how to cut plexi, etc. All I have right now is a dewalt power drill and some hand tools. From reading around online, it seems I will need a router at minimum?

Thanks for any help! I'll try to update here as I progress.

[Tzakiel]

Is there a better spot to ask questions, or maybe I just need to post some more specific ones. I think I am decided on mounting a jlf joystick and sanwa buttons. I believe I may need to route some of the 1/2" mdf and recess it. Now to decide on top mount or bottom mount.  Also my godfather went sort of nuts and bought me a router, circ. saw and jigsaw.  I'm excited! No idea what I am doing but excited.

[severdhed]

The router will cut the slot, cut the plexi, and recess the joysticks, as long as you have the right bits.

I like under mounting the Sanwa joysticks, that way they can be easily replaced later.

I have not used Sanwa screw in buttons, but I know the snap ins don't fit in the standard 1 1/8th hole that happ buttons use

[BadMouth]

You need to get down to about only 1/4" of material to mount the buttons.  I got tired of the huge mess the router made and started using 1/4" mdf for the top layer and then gluing that to a 1/2" layer with sections cut out that go around all the buttons.  They sell 2x4ft pieces of those at Home Depot for around $8-10.  It's not as cost effective as ordering a larger piece, but they usually don't stock the thinner stuff in large sheets.  You can get your control panel art printed with a polycarbonate laminate on top and skip the plexi if you want to simplify things.

My cab has the Z mounting plates for the JLFs, but they don't really add that much mounting depth.
I made my own adapters on another project using nylon spacers from Lowes.  It felt much sturdier than expected and I will go this route in the future.
I did have to drill out the original jlf mounting plate to get the screw heads sunk closer to level.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks badmouth. I will look into some of those points. Can you elaborate on how to get artwork printed on laminate? What is that / how would I do that and how does it attach to the mdf?

[WindDrake]

Hi everyone... I am going to be getting a UAII cabinet and have resolved to make my own controls. For one, their price for the finished panel is quite expensive, and two, I want to have a Japanese style control layout and parts, which neither north coast or xarcade seem to offer.

So here I am. I have some knowledge of Japanese parts because I replaced the joystick and buttons in my Hori HRAP3 stick for ps3. I love that setup, so I know I want the arced button layout and Sanwa parts.

Here are the questions keeping me from getting started:

1. Looking at Sanwa parts... They offer the jlf and jlw models of joysticks. They also have several button styles. Given that I think I want to use mdf board and a plexi sheet (to sandwich artwork) for the panel, I assume I need the right stick and buttons for that type of install. Any idea what parts are the right ones? I know snap in buttons are for metal panel only, what about jlf stick?

2. What should the dimensions be for the control panel, given that I want it to drop into the UAII cabinet? Truthfully I am not even sure how this is supposed to work, only that many others have done it. Anyone know exactly how I should be designing the dimensions of this thing? I assume there is a width and depth I should be shooting for, and some sort of way to make it fit into the drawer(?) of the UAII. This is where I really need help. I see a lot of folks building these hinged drawer/box things and I don't even know what the basic idea is here yet. Does my panel attach to the UAII keyboard drawer or am I building something totally separate? A sample plan or walkthrough would be great help, if such a thing exists.

3. Once I determine the parts to be used in 1. above, I assume the MDF and plexi should be a certain thickness. How do I determine the right type of mdf and plexi to order? And I read somewhere that I will need to rout a groove for t molding which accommodates both the mdf and plexi thickness. Is that correct?

Also could use some perspective on which tools I will need and what the basic process is to get the panel laid out and cut. I will use a button template from slag coin. But I am not really sure how one cuts the curve for the front of the panel, or how to make a groove for t-molding, how to cut plexi, etc. All I have right now is a dewalt power drill and some hand tools. From reading around online, it seems I will need a router at minimum?

Thanks for any help! I'll try to update here as I progress.

#1: I use IL stuff, so I'll leave this to the others.
#2: I have a UAII with the 4-Player CP. Check out the UAII assembly manual to see how it attaches. It doesn't install in the drawer section, it actually rests atop the support boards. Step 18 shows you the L-Brackets used to secure the CP to the shell. I didn't take a ton of pictures of the assembly, but here's what my completed one looks like. http://wdarcade.wordpress.com/2011/05/02/the-beast-is-slain/
#3: I'm leaving this for the woodworking guys.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks winddrake. If the pc is attached to the shelf using the L brackets (is it bolted on or how did you actually attach it), how is the keyboard and mouse accessed? How easily is it removed?

Also, how did you choose to go about the artwork on the top of your panel?

[WindDrake]

Thanks winddrake. If the pc is attached to the shelf using the L brackets (is it bolted on or how did you actually attach it), how is the keyboard and mouse accessed? How easily is it removed?

Also, how did you choose to go about the artwork on the top of your panel?

The CP is screwed in to the shelf with the L-Brackets. If I need to get to the PC, I use the access doors in the back. The Trackball is the mouse, and the keyboard sits on the keyboard shelf.

It's just 4 screws to remove, but remember, you're screwing into particle board. A threaded metal insert or backing (ala a leg leveler) might be better if you plan on attaching/removing it often.

I picked the CPO by browsing what Gameongrafix had available. They do all the art for the UAII for Northcoast.

[Tzakiel]

Ok, thanks. That helps me visualize how this is supposed to work.