How to (almost) play CSI without spending big bucks

[PL1]

Instead of spending thousands of dollars on a high tech fingerprint fume hood like this:


You can (almost) do the same thing with a mini model like this:


If you're confused by this, let me start from the top.

I've been printing inserts for translucent buttons, but sometimes they get turned the wrong way.

After reading this at GGG, I figured I'd try the trick that Randy recommends.

For permanent installation a small drop of GEL superglue can be placed on the back of the PGI at the point where it meets the inside wall of the plunger.

Well, it turns out I used a little bit more gel superglue -- 8 really tiny spots around the diffuser.

Wanting to see how well it came out, I assembled the buttons and everything looked great.

The next morning, I lit them up to see how well it worked and they looked like  .   

Taking the buttons apart, it became obvious that the superglue did exactly what it does in the fume hood on CSI, bonding with the fingerprint oils  -- it built up quite a thick layer.





Lessons learned:

1. Use the least amount of superglue possible.

2. Let it cure fully before assembling the buttons.

Hopefully this helps someone dodge the bullet.   


Scott

[redbeard30]

There's a glue available at most hobby shops that's made for glueing clear plastics. I believe its for car and airplane models, specifically for glueing windshields and cockpit glass. Its formulated to not fog the clear plastic parts. Might be a better option. Its not instant set though. Zap formula 560 is one brand, but upon further investigating in model building forums, it seems these special canopy glues are nothing more than overpriced Elmer's glue. I guess Elmer s brand has the standard white glue that dries white, and another that dries clear. It however does not create as strong of a bond as super glue but I would suspect would be adequate for the purpose posted above.

[redbeard30]

You may be able to save the LEDs. Nail polish remover with acetone dissolves super glue. You might be able to use a q-tip and clean the LEDs off. It might still leave a fog behind, but its worth a try!

[PL1]

Already managed to clean all the sockets, bodies and springs with just isopropyl alcohol + Q-Tip.

Also finished cleaning one plunger -- the rest should come out OK.   

We'll see if the LEDs/diffusers clean up. 
Bad news: The lens covers are also somewhat fogged.

Good news: I bought spare LEDs and lens covers/diffusers in my last order from Bryan.   


Scott

[WindDrake]

Until superglue is fully cured, it lets off some byproducts that are absolutely terrible for plastics. I learned that building models years ago. Yuck.

[Maximus]

Also never smuggle your cocaine in arcade buttons, the same thing happens.

[yotsuya]

So that's where you've been the last few days...

[Le Chuck]

On a cocaine fueled binge? Check.

[Maximus]

So that's where you've been the last few days...

LOL I wish...I mean erm no.... been participating in the joyous task of rounding up contractors to get things done at the new house

[PL2]

Wait a minute, Scott... You were actually building something?

Todd

[PL1]

Wait a minute, Scott... You were actually building something?

Yeah, once in a while I actually make some sawdust and soldering fumes in addition to posting vendor links, pinball advice and my infamous diagrams.   

In addition to a handful of plans that are bogged down in planning, artwork design and tool/parts acquisition, there are 3 partially/mostly completed standalone builds here at casa de PL1.

1. Portable Modular - Still at the test-bed stage -- shouldn't have made it playable.     (Loooong term project)

2. A very small standalone that will remain anonomous until my partner in crime OKs the announcement since it's based on his prototype work. (Short-Medium term project)

3. Budget Portable PinMAME - Sorry, Cory, but after months of experimenting, I finally gave up on getting the magnet/reed switch nudging idea to work -- too finicky on the angles, range and timing.  (Short-Medium term project)

The buttons in the OP are from #3.


Scott

[Le Chuck]

Wait a minute, Scott... You were actually building something?

Yeah, once in a while I actually make some sawdust and soldering fumes in addition to posting vendor links, pinball advice and my infamous diagrams.   

In addition to a handful of plans that are bogged down in planning, artwork design and tool/parts acquisition, there are 3 partially/mostly completed standalone builds here at casa de PL1.

1. Portable Modular - Still at the test-bed stage -- shouldn't have made it playable.     (Loooong term project)

2. A very small standalone that will remain anonomous until my partner in crime OKs the announcement since it's based on his prototype work. (Short-Medium term project)

3. Budget Portable PinMAME - Sorry, Cory, but after months of experimenting, I finally gave up on getting the magnet/reed switch nudging idea to work -- too finicky on the angles, range and timing.  (Short-Medium term project)

The buttons in the OP are from #3.


Scott

Please tell me Todd and Scott are brothers, even better if one can be an alcoholic girl pretending to be her own brother even better!

[PL1]

Please tell me Todd and Scott are brothers, even better if one can be an alcoholic girl pretending to be her own brother even better!

Nope -- no Sandy/Rigby factor going on here.

I suspect that "Todd" is a creation of Yotsuya's (very tiny) inner Driverman, but the mods will have to check the IP logs to be sure.   

Check out "Todd's" account setup and first post times -- right after I respond to Yotsuya's joking around here.

Smells like a sock puppet or HUGE coincidence to me.

How many noobs use their first (and only) two posts to poke fun at one guy?

Either way, I answered the comment in this thread because I'm sure some people wondered why in 2500+ posts I haven't posted any personal-build threads other than the one in my sig.


Scott

[PL2]

What the hell, Scott? I thought I was more than just a "sock puppet" to you. You know what we had was real. If it'll make it all better, I'll let you give me a little more elbow during our next session.

Todd

[yotsuya]

Me? Bro, I'm 40 years old. I don't play ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- like that.

[drventure]

You may be able to save the LEDs. Nail polish remover with acetone dissolves super glue. You might be able to use a q-tip and clean the LEDs off. It might still leave a fog behind, but its worth a try!

About saving those buttons, if the acetone doesn't work, take some steel wool and a scotch brite pad to em. It'll evenly scratch them up such that they'll "look" nicely diffused or frosted. Might be just the trick.

[PL1]

Two of the lens caps were adhered to plungers.

Vise Grips made short work of pinching an edge and prying them apart.

One slightly cloudy lens cap cleaned up passably well with mineral spirits, but it's probably not worth the effort since a new cap/diffuser only costs $0.75 here.

Didn't even bother trying to clean the diffusers since they come with the lens caps.

The LEDs still look like total crap, but might be usable in a pinch, assuming the brightness isn't too badly degraded.   

The blue LED looked OK with the replacement diffuser, cap, and printed insert.

The plungers cleaned up well enough for reuse with just a bit of isopropyl and a thumbnail to break off a few bits of super glue.


Scott

[PL1]

You may be able to save the LEDs. Nail polish remover with acetone dissolves super glue. You might be able to use a q-tip and clean the LEDs off. It might still leave a fog behind, but its worth a try!

Finally got around to trying Acetone and a Q-tip.

Before:


After:


The LEDs turned out OK with very little effort -- the red one looks almost new and only one or two of the others have a slight haze left on the face of the LED.

The lens covers did not fare well at all and the rough surface of the diffusers makes them very difficult to clean -- given that these are sold together here it's probably not worth the effort on these.


Scott

[spoot]

Here I thought it would be a tutorial on how to zoom into a 20x20 pixel image and suddenly have a hi-rez 20000x12000 image that shows the killer.  I'm rather disappointed. 

[marioxb]

Yeah, I though we were doing Crime Scene Investigation stuff here too. That or a CSI PC game. I know nothing of these "fingerprinting machines".