Pinball Cab - MultiBall Madness [Upd 14 March. - Finished]

[Martijn]

Last year i sold my Marvel VS Capcom, so there is a empty spot in our house what needs filling.

So i am gonna do another balcony build 

This time i want to try a a Virtual pinball cabinet. Its going to be medium sized with a 32 inch play field.
I want it to be fairly done around Christmas (hopefully sooner)

At the moment i am learning a lot from the hyperpin forum about the building the cabinet , lights and electronic part
I have been working on the artwork for a week now and the initial design is ready, just like my 2 arcade cabinets its going to be bright fun and flashy 

Now ill get back to cleaning my balcony for this and start gathering my tools

In this first post ill keep editing what and where i bought parts, seems to be the netiquette 

Cabinet
- Bally "Launch Ball" Button - Yellow
- Stern/Sega Red Start Button & Lamp Assembly
- Williams/Bally/Stern Blue Start Button
- "Pinball Sucks" Start Button
- Heavy Duty Leg Leveler - Black
- Leg Leveler Rubber Castors - Set Of 4
- Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
- Williams/Bally Black Backbox Hinge Set
- Williams/Bally Cabinet Hinge Pivot Bushing
- Extended Black Leg Bolts - 2-3/4"
- Williams/Bally Backbox Hinge Bolt - Black
- Williams/Bally Black Legs - Set of 4
- PinGuard Nylon Leg and Bolt Protectors
- PinGuard Cabinet Protectors (set of 4)
- ARCADE MACHINE MINI COIN DOOR FOR 3.5" COIN MECH - #1
- Siderails with button guard, Stern
- Coin Mechanism, 1,00 Euro
- T-MOLDING - YELLOW 10FT ROLL - NEW - 3/4 INCH 
- YELLOW GOLD LEAF 30MM ARCADE BUTTON
- RED GOLD LEAF 30MM ARCADE BUTTON - GOLD
- T-MOLDING - BLACK 10FT ROLL - NEW - 3/4 INCH TMOLDING

PC hardware
- CPU : Intel i3-3240 3400 MHz
- Mainboard : MSI B75IA-E33
- RAM : G.Skill NT DDR3 4GB Kit DDR3-1333MHz
- GPU : MSI GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost Twin Frozr III OC 2048 MB
- SSD : Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD SATA600
- PSU : Cooler Master Voeding V850 850W, Modulair
- PSU : Noctua Casefan NF-A15 PWM 140mm

Sound
- Creative Labs Gigaworks T3 speaker set (stripped it from an old project, need to rebuild the woofer case)

Screens
- Playfield : Samsung Series 5 F5000 32" 1080p 100HZ LED
- DMD : 9inch AT090TN10 800×480 lcd display VGA Interface
- Backglass : Infotronic L2130S 54cm diagonal 21.3" 4:3 1600 x 1200

Controllers
- Ledwiz 32
- VirtuaPin™ Digital Plunger Kit

Force Feedback
- contactor 9A 0VAC 12VDC 3RT1016-1BA42

Lights
- Strip Band Leiste 5050 SMD 60LEDs/M
- 44 LED Truck Strobe Emergency Lights Bright White
- RGB High-Power LED 3 x 1 W Barthelme 66000910 RGB 30/30/8 lm
- Vehicle Roof Top Emergency Hazard Warning Strobe Light Lamp 240 LED White
- 12V SUPER BRIGHT WEDGE BASE CLUSTER LED RED - 10MM
- 12V SUPER BRIGHT WEDGE BASE CLUSTER LED YELLOW- 10MM
- 12V SUPER BRIGHT WEDGE BASE CLUSTER LED BLUE - 10MM

Electronic / Wiring
- DIODE 1N4148 150 mA/75 V Diotec 1 N 4148
- ESKA G-zekeringschakelaar 6,3 x 32 mm
- ESKA Fuse 6,3 x 32 mm 250 V 5.00 A
- ESKA Fuse 6,3 x 32 mm 250 V 10.0 A
- ESKA Fuse 6,3 x 32 mm 250 V 0.5 A
- Resisitor 5W 0,33Ohm Axiaal Hoge belasting 0.33 Ω 5 W ± 10 %
- SCI Switch16 A R13-244B-02 B/R 220 V/AC 250 V/AC 10 A In/uit
- SCI Pushbutton250 V/AC 6 A R13-527A2-02 4x
- LiY Wire 1 x 0,5 mm˛ Red100m Conrad
- LiY Wire 1 x 0,5 mm˛ Black 100 m
- Kabelbinder- en kleefsokkel-set (l x b x h) 27.5 x 19.4 x 4.3 cm EPR-350UV
- ICK S R 28,5x18,5mm
- Neutrik NE8FDP B etherCON chassisdeel female
- Neutrik NC3MD-LX BAG XLR chassisdeel 3p male
- Neutrik NAUSB-W B USB A naar B
- 4-Channel 12V Relay Module
- Neutrik NC3FRX BAG XLR
- 4-Channel 12V Relay Module

[Nephasth]

Looking forward to another clean build!

[rablack97]

oooweee

Tickets purchased......

[swaffar]

I can't believe you got rid of that cab!  Oh well... at least you didn't sell the Street Fighter Cab.  Let's see that side art!

[Rick]

Subscribed! /AJ

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Subscribed! /AJ

  Im also in for the viewing..

[macattack]

Cool, Looking forward to the thread. Just got done doing the same type spec for Vpcabs. Seems to work well at that size.


WWW.Xtremepinball.com

[Maximus]

Ahhh, a master returns. Yep I'll subscribe to this one. 

Assuming you are going to go down the Zeb's power board/LEDWiz route for contactors and LED drivers?

[emphatic]

Please, don't let us down. 

[Rick]

Please, don't let us down. 

Good luck. We're all counting on you.

[Martijn]

Assuming you are going to go down the Zeb's power board/LEDWiz route for contactors and LED drivers?

Because this is just "a"  32 inch sized cab, it wont have a dozens of  high power rgb leds or shakers or replay knockers.
No space and i am not such a enthusiast.

I was thinking along this guide and use 12 volt siemens contactors for some force feed back



Loving your work btw Maximus, very wel planned and executed.

I wont let you guys down in the way of, it will be the same old technique and resources 

I don't have access to laser cutting, cnc milling. Just my balcony and a router is all i need

[Maximus]

Thanks Martijn 

Looks like a cool 12V setup, certainly sounds like you've been doing your research already, I think the only thing you have to watch out for is proper isolation of the LEDWiz from any potential flashback from the contactors, but it looks like the relays should keep you safe from harm.

As for the router on the balcony, I agree that's all you really need, but it must suck to be your neighbor lol.

[Martijn]

Ill hope to get all the cutting done in a day or 2.. back to planning

[a1pharm]

Subscribed!

 

[Minwah]

I was thinking along this guide and use 12 volt siemens contactors for some force feed back

Pardon my ignorance, but what are contactors?

[ViriiGuy]

I built one myslef at the first of this year. All in all I spent about $7k building it, but I made a few mistakes and I added ALL the bells and whistles. I just love mine!

[PL1]

I was thinking along this guide and use 12 volt siemens contactors for some force feed back

Pardon my ignorance, but what are contactors?

They are used to emulate solenoids.



As Sindono puts it here,

they will give a nice sounding and feeling thud to the machine when you push the flippers, or when the ball hits the slingslots or bumpers in the software. Should add a lot of force feedback, making it that more realistic.

Scott

[Rick]

They are used to emulate solenoids.

Ok - so supernooby questions here.

a) Are we looking for an item to provide an audible "click" and a physical "feeling" when we hit the flippers and contact the bumpers, etc?

b) Why would one choose a contactor over a solenoid? Are solenoids simply passe, or are they just not used any more for one reason or another?

c) Would it be smarter (or give better quality) to have a single contactor for each item? So, like, one on the left side of the cab, one on the right side of the cab, and one heavier one mid-field for bumpers, etc?

Again, forgive my noobishness. And thank you.

[ViriiGuy]

They are used to emulate solenoids.

Ok - so supernooby questions here.

a) Are we looking for an item to provide an audible "click" and a physical "feeling" when we hit the flippers and contact the bumpers, etc?

b) Why would one choose a contactor over a solenoid? Are solenoids simply passe, or are they just not used any more for one reason or another?

c) Would it be smarter (or give better quality) to have a single contactor for each item? So, like, one on the left side of the cab, one on the right side of the cab, and one heavier one mid-field for bumpers, etc?

Again, forgive my noobishness. And thank you.

Solenoids are generally not used because Actual Pinball Solenoids require 48 or more volts on average. We use 12V Contactors, because they are easy and fairly cheap to get, replicate the sound and feel very nice.. And do not require massive amounts of power.

[Maximus]

c) Would it be smarter (or give better quality) to have a single contactor for each item? So, like, one on the left side of the cab, one on the right side of the cab, and one heavier one mid-field for bumpers, etc?

Typical VPin rigs use 8 contactors. One each for the the flippers, one for the bumpers on one side, etc etc. Also you can use a windshield washer motor to simulate the 'whirring' of rotating toys, a shaker motor and of course a knocker.

Here's my rig with the contactors in place along with the wiper motor and the shaker

[ViriiGuy]

WowMaximus!! Nice setup!
Does the angled wood help witht he sound? In my build they are just mounted to the sides of the cabinet, in their general location.

[Maximus]

WowMaximus!! Nice setup!
Does the angled wood help witht he sound? In my build they are just mounted to the sides of the cabinet, in their general location.

No the angled wood is part of the side projection system...

[ViriiGuy]

Oh yea!! I rememebr your thread about that now!
Very very cool!

[Martijn]

I hope those projectors can pas the G's test 

Got some parts in, i edited the first post with information

[swaffar]

Thanks for the detailed parts list.  I like the 9" DMD screen.  Do you plan to take the screens out of the cases and countersink them in the sides.  Also, what screen will you be using in the backbox?

[Martijn]

Thanks for the detailed parts list.  I like the 9" DMD screen.  Do you plan to take the screens out of the cases and countersink them in the sides.  Also, what screen will you be using in the backbox?

That screen is as naked as it can get, just the bare 9 inch lcd with a pcboard with a vga connection.
i have a 7 inch 4:3 here, and the quality is great. so i am confident this 9 inch will serve its purpose

[swaffar]

Yeah, I see the DMD screen.  I was talking about the playfield screen.  Lots of people leave the case on and the playfield has a bit of a border around it.  I tried to get mine down to zero.  Also I highly recommend a custom lockdown bar from VirtuaPin.

[Maximus]

I hope those projectors can pas the G's test 

Aye I'm having to engineer in some vibration isolation (that's what she said  )

[Martijn]

Yeah, I see the DMD screen.  I was talking about the playfield screen.  Lots of people leave the case on and the playfield has a bit of a border around it.  I tried to get mine down to zero.  Also I highly recommend a custom lockdown bar from VirtuaPin.

Yes, i love the slide in lcd method, takes away the need for a bezel right?, maximum playfield 
The custom lockdown bar will be ordered once i have figured out the cabinet size , how did you mount it on the cab? I dont see a need for a Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Assembly .

[Martijn]

Today i received the backglas monitor, its a Infotronic L2130s industrial 21.3" 4:3 1600 x 1200 massive screen.

i got it next to nothing from online marketplace (Craig list) with a flaw that the backlight was broken but the screen itself was perfectly ok
You can buy CCFL to led kits to replace the old bulb, i thought because the screen was so cheap i could do this to get a proper working 21.3"

Its really heavy



Weighing a massive 17KG, its as heavy as the old 21 inch CRT, mainly because its entire housing is made of steel, and the foot is as heavy as the whole screen part



Stripped it and found the problem, just some loose filters i think?




I soldered them back on and redid the ones that didn't came loose yet as well.

And its working again 



No need for that repair kit 

[CoryBee]

I love broken TV\Monitors that are that easy to fix.

Good work!

[Martijn]

The playfield and backglass monitor have a good ratio in my eye. visible playfield is 40cm wide, and the visible backglass is 43 wide.
Just a little bigger (because bigger is better  )



I wont decase the playfield, the frame is holding everything together, and its really thin already. I would probably break it..

Now that i got the screens i can start drawing the cutout plan

[spoot]

Typical VPin rigs use 8 contactors. One each for the the flippers, one for the bumpers on one side, etc etc. Also you can use a windshield washer motor to simulate the 'whirring' of rotating toys, a shaker motor and of course a knocker.

Contactors eh..........great, you just cost me $100.00 in more parts.   

[emphatic]

Those screens look great together! 

[swaffar]

Way to go with the screen repair!  If you check my build thread, I've updated the first post (again) with a link to those sketchup plans you wanted.  Hope they help.
 

[Demon-Seed]

I am looking at building one of these too! I look forward to your updates!... any idea on cost?

[swaffar]

Pincabs have a much wider range in cost than traditional arcades.  If you go the full-sized route you're looking at a 42" screen, 27-32" backglass screen and most likely a third screen or $300 authentic DMD.  I've spent about $1800 on my mini, but I went all out (for a mini) whereas most minis are only two screens, no custom lockdown bar, and no led/force feedback.  Check out vpforums.org.  They have a cabinet forum there.

[Demon-Seed]

Hey
Yes I have been lurking on the forums..... the one thing I hate is the admin of the forums sells virtual pins and he always is trying to sell them.  I would buy one but I thought for 4K I could make one or get someone else to build me one for less!

[a1pharm]

It also depends on where you live in the world.  It will cost you more to build if you live in Australia vs. the USA.  If you want to make one, and live in the USA, wait until the after-Thanksgiving/Black Friday sales to buy your TV's/Monitors.

I have parted a 47" playfield 32" backglass and real DMD for about 2k +/- 300.  This does not include a custom lockdown bar or solonoids/contacters (this will add another ~ 300-500), and also does not include custom LED work (another ~ 200).

So, in the USA, for a huge 47" playfield and all the bells and whistles will set you back about 3K.

Cheers!
 

[Maximus]

Refurb TVs are also a good alternative that help keep cost down and of coura course gently used LED tvs will last plenty long enough too.

For contactors you don't have to buy Siemens they have gone up a lot in price, maybe due to this hobby.

Vpins are pricey though in comparison to arcade cabs.