Thinking of an upright with removable self-contained CP. Am I crazy?

[Token]

I am planning out my first build after spending the past few months marinating on BYOAC. My plan is to build an upright modeled in size and style on the Artifact build.

The one major change I will make, aside from color and artwork, is I am interested in a self-contained CP that includes all hardware needed to become a plug-and-play console. I have viewed numerous self-contained CPs here on BYOAC and elsewhere, but I haven't seen one that is also integrated into an upright cab.

Thoughts?

[BadMouth]

I think it's a cool idea.  Unless you plan to have a working coin door, you just have monitor, sound & power connections.

[PL1]

Just put ground and the two coin switches on a 1/8" stereo plug and you have a simple way to connect/disconnect the coin door.


Scott

[Token]

Thanks for the feedback, BadMouth and PL1.

I hadn't thought about the coin door. I suppose I can live without a functioning one, or use PL1's suggestion. That would make for four connections:

1) Monitor
2) Sound
3) Power
4) Coin Door (optional)

I think the real challenge will be the size. I am planning on a 28 1/2" wide CP. The depth will be the smallest dimension I can use that will still accommodate all the hardware.

[yotsuya]

If I read this right, you want to be able to pull the CP off the machine and then take it to someone's house, hook it up to the TV, and play there, away from the cabinet at your house, correct?

[thatpurplestuff]

Been toying around with the same idea for my arcade... would love to see what you come up with!  Like you, the size of the CP and getting everything to fit seems like it would be the biggest hurdle (if you're buying a pc specifically for this purpose you can keep the size down relatively easily, but if you're repurposing an old pc it gets more difficult).  Another thing to consider is ventilation... would you have the exhaust just going out the back of the CP and into the body of the cab?  I considered possibly putting intake fans in the bottom of the CP and then just having some gaps intentionally placed around the top edges to allow the heat to blow out, but I'm not sure how great that would work.

Either way good luck and I hope you can figure out a workable solution!

[Token]

If I read this right, you want to be able to pull the CP off the machine and then take it to someone's house, hook it up to the TV, and play there, away from the cabinet at your house, correct?

Yes, that is the idea.

I considered possibly putting intake fans in the bottom of the CP and then just having some gaps intentionally placed around the top edges to allow the heat to blow out, but I'm not sure how great that would work

I don't think venting from the bottom of the CP will work, as that part would be resting on a coffee table or the floor when it is being used as the plug and play unit for a TV. I will probably vent from the back of the CP, and leave the back of the cabinet partially open.

[Le Chuck]

If I read this right, you want to be able to pull the CP off the machine and then take it to someone's house, hook it up to the TV, and play there, away from the cabinet at your house, correct?

Yes, that is the idea.

I considered possibly putting intake fans in the bottom of the CP and then just having some gaps intentionally placed around the top edges to allow the heat to blow out, but I'm not sure how great that would work

I don't think venting from the bottom of the CP will work, as that part would be resting on a coffee table or the floor when it is being used as the plug and play unit for a TV. I will probably vent from the back of the CP, and leave the back of the cabinet partially open.

1/4 rubber feet.  You don't want the bottom of the CP scraping your neighbor's coffee table all to hell.  That will take care of the airflow issue.  If you go all solid state and don't want to run anything to 3d intensive you should be able to go with a very minimal low heat unit anway.  Frankly you could probably get a few laptop batteries in there and have the whole thing stand alone.  I think having a docking station in a fullsize cab is a fine idea.  Gives it a nice home. 

[BadMouth]

I think the real challenge will be the size. I am planning on a 28 1/2" wide CP. The depth will be the smallest dimension I can use that will still accommodate all the hardware.

Nobody says the control panel can't extend under the bezel and monitor. 

[Hambo3]

Thoughts, yes. Don't!
I had this intention with control panels that switch in and out but the reality is I have my 2 player controls installed and just leave it as is, never bothering, which is a shame.

Am still interested in a really workable solution which might change my laziness

[Token]

1/4 rubber feet.  You don't want the bottom of the CP scraping your neighbor's coffee table all to hell.  That will take care of the airflow issue.  If you go all solid state and don't want to run anything to 3d intensive you should be able to go with a very minimal low heat unit anway.  Frankly you could probably get a few laptop batteries in there and have the whole thing stand alone.  I think having a docking station in a fullsize cab is a fine idea.  Gives it a nice home.

Good advice all around, particularly about the rubber feet. And I LOVE the laptop batteries idea. Thanks!

Nobody says the control panel can't extend under the bezel and monitor. 

My thoughts exactly. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Ideas:

pogo pins
hack up a laptop and the matching dock connector.

[shponglefan]

Sounds like a good idea to me!  Seeing a build for this would be awesome.

[Cynicaster]

I really like the concept, but if it were me, I think I’d probably hook it up to the cabinet and end up never taking it anywhere.  It would have to be pretty darn quick and simple for me to ever bother removing it. 

[paigeoliver]

I did this a long time ago and it never got used in portable mode.

[Vigo]

Ideas:

pogo pins
hack up a laptop and the matching dock connector.

If you know a good source for prefab pogo pin connectors, please let me know. I looked a year ago and it was disappointed how little I could find. I shelved a modular panel project idea over it.

[TopJimmyCooks]

There is none.  That is why I love mentioning it all the time.  you can't get in the door with pogo pins for less than $50.  for all the connections for a whole cp probably more like $75.  At that point a couple of dsub 25's off an old printer start to look pretty nice. 

[Vigo]

I hear ya loud and clear, man. Maybe someday someone will produce these.

[michelevit]

My local electronics junkyard sells these ATX extension cables for $1. Its the cheapest and best way to make a cable disconnect.

I've used them in some modular electronics projects. Its a simple but very effective way to quick disconnect a multiwire device.

Just cut the middle wires and you have a 24 wires to play with.
They are available online at newegg or ebay..

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/24-pin-atx-extension-cable