Recess USB Port

[jabbathehut]

Hi all,
Fairly new here but I'm tackling my first bartop, I've got the side panels cut out (At least for the most part, they may still need to be squared up a little, but that's another story). I'll get around to making a build thread one of these days hopefully once I've made more progress.

Since I was deprived as a child (Only owned an NES) I thought I'd make this arcade cabinet also emulate consoles, so I went out and bought USB controllers for N64, SNES, and even NES. *Shakes stick at Sega* :-P (Just kidding Sega... You're OK)

I figured it made the most sense to recess a hole into my the front panel of my arcade, and get a socket for a couple USB plugs. Does anyone know the best sockets out there, or if I'd be better of finding a couple male to female usb extenders and then throwing some bondo around it and then painting it.

If it makes a difference I am using 3/4 inch melamine coated particle board.

A quick amazon search revealed this: http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-CCAUSB-Extension-Cable-Integrated/dp/B001GXQMXE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367913281&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+socket

Seems to just be a cable... Not sure why it commands a $22 price tag... I may have access to some similar cables from where I work. (Thank goodness for employee discount.)

If anyone has done this I'd appreciate their input. Thanks ahead of time!

[edekoning]

Why not use something like I used on my cab: 'Neutrik NAUSB-W-B'? I bought them for about 6 euro a piece at arcadeshop.de.

[Drnick]

I second the Neutrik connections. They are the cleanest way that I know of to have USB Passthrough.

[PL1]

+1 for the Neutrik NAUSB-W-B (black) or NAUSB-W (silver).

 

Neutrik also makes color base-plates, covers, and a mounting plate -- see the data sheet for more details.

   

On this side of the pond, you can get the feedthrus at:
Allied Electronics
Mouser
Focus Attack
and many other vendors.


Scott

[Brian74]

+1 for the Neutrik NAUSB-W-B (black) or NAUSB-W (silver).

 

Neutrik also makes color base-plates, covers, and a mounting plate -- see the data sheet for more details.

   

On this side of the pond, you can get the feedthrus at:
Allied Electronics
Mouser
Focus Attack
and many other vendors.


Scott

I have two of them.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[jabbathehut]

This is why you guys rock... That is PERFECT. I think I'd seen them used on some of the projects here, I just didn't know where to find them. Someone should make/sticky a thread for "random-knick-knacks-that-might-be-needed"™

[Brian74]

Before I got these, I took two buttons, removed the plunger, cut out the center and hot glued a short USB extension cord.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[Unstupid]

Cheaper... Vertical solder mount USB connector, a router, and a steady hand  :

[DLinkOZ]

Has anyone seen anything like the Neutrik that offers a safety catch?  I'd hate for a sugar-fueled nephew to accidentally unplug one of my guns, potentially causing me to go through and re-ID and set it up again.

[PL1]

One of the main reasons for the Neutrik is the ability to easily plug and un-plug.

Maybe you can use a nylon loop clamp as strain relief.

Clamp shown is too large -- get the smallest that will still close.

They also come in black and most Ace Hardware stores sell them individually instead of having to buy a bag of them.

Protip: Take the USB cable with you and try the clamps on for size.   


Scott

[DLinkOZ]

That actually is a pretty simple solution.  Perhaps even attaching a some sort of elastic/spring so that an accidental tug doesn't result in either a reconfig (as-is and the plug pulls out) or something broken (clamped down, the strain finds the point of least resistance).

[PL1]

Consider using velcro for warning/shock absorption/deceleration.

8" each of hook and loop in a Y-configuration should do the trick.

Attach the hook (black) part + to the cab and the loop (red) part + to the cable ~1 foot from the end.

+---   ---+
      \/
      ||
      ||
      ||

When the cord is pulled, the the velcro will tear apart as the ~1 foot of slack is pulled straight.


Scott

Scott

[nemesismachine]

http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-adapter-b-a-black

[ebarlow99]

I use one of these...allows you to have a keyboard, mouse, zip stick and headphones!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Ports-USB-2-0-HUB-with-Audio-In-Desk-/390598677861?pt=US_USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item5af17ed565

[pinballfreak]

This is the USB port I used on my cabinet

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Under-Dash-Mount-Kit-w-6-Ft-Cable-for-iPod-Mp3-Aux-Male-Female-Ends-/200849008398?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item2ec388a70e&vxp=mtr

[shponglefan]

Can anyone confirm what hole size is needed for the Neutrik connector?  Based on the datasheet, am I right in that it's 24mm?  There are no units on the datasheet.

[edekoning]

24 mm is correct

[PL1]

Can anyone confirm what hole size is needed for the Neutrik connector?  Based on the datasheet, am I right in that it's 24mm?  There are no units on the datasheet.

Mr. Micrometer sez the hole needs to be at least 0.925" for us non-metric types.

The mounting plate is 1.022" wide.


Scott

[keilmillerjr]

Cheaper... Vertical solder mount USB connector, a router, and a steady hand  :

Do you happen to have a link? Come in type A female? These look perfect for a professional look.

[PL1]

Maybe something like this would work.




Scott

[keilmillerjr]

I was able to find these, but at 22.95 a piece, they are definitely out of budget. They look nice though. GTC makes them.

Still looking for those usb connectors with the recessed bolt hole tabs.

[JDFan]

I was able to find these, but at 22.95 a piece, they are definitely out of budget. They look nice though. GTC makes them.

Still looking for those usb connectors with the recessed bolt hole tabs.

Could use a wall outlet plate similar to these for about $5 or less - ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1NV0T67856 )

I went with a couple spares like these :

 I had from an old case that fit into a back MOBO adapter slot and made mounting holles in the aluminum channel I had to use on the back of the cabinet (resizing the bartop plans didn't leave room inside for the PSU I had so created an opening so the back would fit) you can see them in this pic :

[Unstupid]

Cheaper... Vertical solder mount USB connector, a router, and a steady hand  :

Do you happen to have a link? Come in type A female? These look perfect for a professional look.

Here is the ones I used: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/USB-B1SMVSW6/ED2993-ND/2677754

Type A are usually flanged at the end so I couldn't use those with a wood through hole.  I guess if you cut a metal mounting plate you could make it work but I find it easier to just but the A-B usb cable.

[jdbailey1206]

+1 for the Neutrik NAUSB-W-B (black) or NAUSB-W (silver).

 

Neutrik also makes color base-plates, covers, and a mounting plate -- see the data sheet for more details.

   

On this side of the pond, you can get the feedthrus at:
Allied Electronics
Mouser
Focus Attack
and many other vendors.


Scott

+1

I have yet to install mine but it seems the easiest route to measure and drill a hole and throw these bad boys in.

[stripe4]

BTW, Farnell carries Neutrik products, too.

[keilmillerjr]

So, I coughed up the money for 2 of the Clarion CCAUSB units. I am very impressed with the quality. I like that they have a rubber cover to soemwhat hide them. I defiantly think they are over priced. With the two of these, I can plug in a mouse and keyboard for admin, and possibly some light guns.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GXQMXE

Off topic, but is there any good lighthun games that might work with 3.1 i3 4gb?