Best drill bit for button holes

[Dekieon]

I am going to go buy some drill bits today, but I figured I would find out what you all think is the best. My control panel will be wood, but would also like an opinions on bits for a metal control panel as well, for future reference when I do my Ms. Pac restore.

What bit is best to use for drilling buttons holes? Forstner, boring, spade, hole saw, etc?
What about bits for drilling the larger joystick holes?
And even larger trackball holes?

I was orginally gonna get forstner bits or everything except the trackball, but my research is telling me that they are used with drill presses and are very hard to use with a hand drill due to their flat bottom..any opinions on this?
Would the spade bit not present similar difficulty?

For the trackball, i was going to buy a hole saw bit. Any opinions on this.

[shponglefan]

I've used Forstner and hole saws with a hand drill without issues.  Regardless of the bit, you need to keep it relatively vertical, but it's very possible to do it handheld.

Most recently I've been using Japanese buttons and find I prefer using a hole saw for those, since I've had to route out the bottom of the panel so the overall depth is much thinner.  A hole saw has seemed faster/easier in those cases, although the resulting hole isn't quite as nice as a Forstner bit.  But that's probably because I drill from both sides using a hole saw.

FWIW, I've only drilled out MDF for buttons.

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

I used spade bits until I could afford Forstner bits, and I never looked back. (Level Up!) 

In my experience, spade bits are more prone to bouncing/binding while drilling, and they definitely blow out the back side of a plywood work piece. I also use a hand drill with my Forstner bits, and I've never had an issue with crooked buttons or button-holes; just take your time.

Joystick holes don't need to be much bigger than button holes. I use a 1 3/8" Forstner, but I believe some folks here use the typical 1 1/8" bit for their joys too. Generally, you do have to take the stick apart to get it mounted that way, but it's not a big deal.

I would use a hole saw for trackball mounting, but the only time I've ever actually done it was to cut plexi for a flush-mounted trackball. Took me many attempts to get right without cracking the plexi! Again, the key is to take your time.

[jammin0]

I also like Forstner bits with plexiglass.  The spade bits are too agressive and can grab suddenly cracking the plexi.  One trick is to run the drill at the highest speed upon entering the material.  You get a cleaner hole that way.  Fast speed and as little pressure as possible on the down force.

[Dekieon]

Great, thanks everyone for the info. I will be grabbing forstner bits then.

[edekoning]

Another option would be to make a single hole in a scrap piece of wood/plexi. Then use a router to copy that hole onto the CP, once for each button. The benefit of this is that you can precisely position the template hole onto the CP, and that each hole will go straight down.

[RandyT]

If you don't have any other way, then the router thing is fine.  But Forstner bits are just as accurate, probably cleaner (at least on the top surface), and it will take a quarter of the time.  HF has decent deals on them, and they are a good addition to the tool box.

[eds1275]

I got a cheap 1 1/8 hole saw that unless held absolutely vertically doesn't really make the hole good enough to drop a button in and have it level with the control panel. But I just drop the router in it with a flush trim bit, the guide wheel touching the far side of the hole, and zip it around. Then I flip the control panel and do it again from the other side, and they drop right in. Not the most ideal way to do it, but I couldn't get a forstner locally at a decent price, and my excitement level was too high to wait for shipping. I think we all know that feeling. It works just fine but takes a little extra time.

[Brian74]

 Forstner bits +1

[Yourname942]

Forstner bits are just amazing.


 I would highly suggest using a hand-drill with a drill guide from Harbor Frieght to make perfectly accurate straight holes.

[PL1]

For the trackball, i was going to buy a hole saw bit. Any opinions on this.

Good choice, but if you have Dremel attachments like these, you can use them to cut a variety of hole sizes.

The downside to the Dremel is that it is slower.

I would highly suggest using a hand-drill with a drill guide from Harbor Frieght to make perfectly accurate straight holes.

Another good option is the Craftsman Drill Guide.




Scott

[drventure]

Forstners work great. I found a full set on CL for about 15$

One trick that I've used with forstners.

When they "come out" the other side, they tend to splinter things badly, so I do this.

Mark the hole center, use a small bit (say 1/16 or 1/32) to drill all the way through at the center.

Now use the forstner from the top, drill down about halfway.

Flip the piece and finish the hole from the other side, using your center hole to align the forstner. Presto! Both sides will be completely clean.

For a trackball, though, you'll probably HAVE to use a hole saw. Use the same center hole trick though,and you should get a nice clean hole. With hole saws, you have to back the saw out pretty often I've found, or the material will clog up the saw and start burning. Forstners don't have that problem.

[kahlid74]

They do make Forstners big enough for Trackballs but they are super expensive.  I'm typically a fan of the Dremel way but it requires practice before doing it.  Otherwise it might be un-even.

[yaksplat]

For trackball holes, I like to use an adjustable hole cutter.  It works great, but only in a drill press.  Otherwise it may kill you.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Circle-Cutter/dp/B00004T7P1

[drventure]

For trackball holes, I like to use an adjustable hole cutter.  It works great, but only in a drill press.  Otherwise it may kill you.

Amen to that. Although, I picked up one with 2 wing blades and did use it successfully with a normal drill. It's just tricky. And make sure you don't have any loose clothes, hair, etc!

[PL1]

I'm typically a fan of the Dremel way but it requires practice before doing it.

Very true.

Works great with a pilot hole the exact size of the pivot-brad and slowly lowering the height adjustment while it's running to take layers off a bit at a time.

1. Around the circle clockwise one turn
2. Counter-clockwise one turn
3. Turn height knob several turns to lower bit
4. Repeat

Around 1/2 way through, switch to the other side and when it starts to break through make sure you don't take a bite out of the nice clean circle.


Scott

[nemesismachine]

You guys are over complicating a simple procedure.  I used a brand new 1/2" bit.  Sharp as they get.  Let the drill do the work, on a high speed.  The tip gets hot and melts through the plexi, and you can route out the hole with a flush trim bit and you're done.  I just finished my arcade stick this weekend, no cracks or splintering. I didn't need to buy a $10+ forstner bit, no hole saws, brackets or drill presses.  Just take your time and don't push and you'll be fine with a standard drill bit.

If you want an excuse to go buy more tools, you can always go with a masonry bit if you're worried.  They cost less than a forstner bit.

[jammin0]

You guys are over complicating a simple procedure.  I used a brand new 1/2" bit.  Sharp as they get.  Let the drill do the work, on a high speed.  The tip gets hot and melts through the plexi, and you can route out the hole with a flush trim bit and you're done.  I just finished my arcade stick this weekend, no cracks or splintering. I didn't need to buy a $10+ forstner bit, no hole saws, brackets or drill presses.  Just take your time and don't push and you'll be fine with a standard drill bit.

If you want an excuse to go buy more tools, you can always go with a masonry bit if you're worried.  They cost less than a forstner bit.

The discussion had changed to trackball holes, that is where the crazy wizard talk is coming from.  I do have to say though that forstner bits work better in wood and plexi.  Of course if you're going to flush trim them anyway it doesn't really matter with the plexi.  The flush trim bit in your router is going to cost 4 or 5 times that of a cheap forstner bit.  Just saying.

[michelevit]

I go a little crazy and use a template and router. The template is a simple 1/4 inch piece of aluminum with holes layed out in a streetfighter pattern. I clamp this template to the top of my control panel and use my hand held porter cable with a 1/4 inch spiral upcut bit to hog out the joystick holes. Works perfectly. Templates and Jigs save a good deal of time. Before the jig I would use a 1 1/8 spade bit.

[Steve248]

Hi,

I have started a build and will start a topic soon with pictures etc.

In the meantime, this caught my eye as I experimented quite a bit before committing to one method. I tried Forstner bits, if I had a drill press that would have allowed me to get to every hole position then I would have done this but I didn't.

The Forstner bit is pretty clean, fine on top and if you use a sacrificial piece of wood underneath it is mostly clean underneath but far from perfect.

The method I have used is with a router, I used a spiral bit and the cut is absolutely perfect both top and bottom, no breakout at all with both MDF and Ply. 

I will try to add some pictures at some point but if anyone is curious the method is with a template and guide bush, cut about two thirds through, drill a pilot hole through, turn over, drill through with a forstner bit of a smaller size than the hole, then use a template bit to finish the hole.

Takes a while but the cut will be the perfect size, perfect position, perfectly horizontal and 100% clean. I wanted clean both sides as I have laminated on the reverse side and it needed to be really good.