Mini / micro arcade project - a few simple layout questions / raspberry pi

[gurnie]

Hello everyone.

I am jumping on the Raspberry PI bandwagon as I plan to make a mini arcade cabinet  (under 12" high) out of exotic wood (and only exotic / domestic wood).  no decals for artwork, that'll be hardwood too.

so,  since i am using the pi, i figure that the pi will probably only run the classic games.  i was thinking of using an ipac with the Mag-Stik Plus (to switch between 4-way and 8-way). 

So my question is - how many buttons do most people put on their classic style arcade cabinets?    when i'm saying classic i refer to late 70's to maybe mid 1990's games.  I think a 6 button layout on a arcade as small as this one will be will feel cramped to play.  So i was thinking maybe doing two buttons

also are there mini coin door mechanics?  if not i was thinking of getting a coin door button lever and seeing if i can make a simple coin door mechanic on my own..

[EssexMame]

You'd only need 3 buttons per player for most classic arcade games. Some, such as Defender, complicate this - there are discussions here on that. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110256.0

Of course, if you class some fighters, such as Street Fighter, classics you'd need 6 buttons.

I am going with 6 buttons as it'll allow for any later additions/expansions and the interface (minipac) will handle it.

[kahlid74]

I'm glad you've done your research and know the Pi will only play a subset of all arcade games, you're ahead of the ball there.

They key however to the Pi is not that you have this little micro-computer with lots of ease of use, it's that is has something know as the GPIO.  You don't NEED an iPac.  You can hook up arcade controls directly to the GPIO and boomshakalaka you've got your own computer with built in encoder.  Now mind you it's going to take a little sleuthing of your own and scripting but all the scripts are already out there!

Here's a good link to get started: http://blog.thestateofme.com/2012/08/10/raspberry-pi-gpio-joystick/

As for buttons, I would do at least 4 per person, but three is an absolute must.

[gurnie]

I'm glad you've done your research and know the Pi will only play a subset of all arcade games, you're ahead of the ball there.

They key however to the Pi is not that you have this little micro-computer with lots of ease of use, it's that is has something know as the GPIO.  You don't NEED an iPac.  You can hook up arcade controls directly to the GPIO and boomshakalaka you've got your own computer with built in encoder.  Now mind you it's going to take a little sleuthing of your own and scripting but all the scripts are already out there!

Here's a good link to get started: http://blog.thestateofme.com/2012/08/10/raspberry-pi-gpio-joystick/

As for buttons, I would do at least 4 per person, but three is an absolute must.

The GPIO hook-up is beyond my computer expertise.  I am a far better wood worker than I am "computer programmer" and I am quite sure that I will burn my self a few dozen times with the soldering iron.  So i'm ok spending the $40 for the ipac to save me time.  but it's a great solution

I think 4 buttons is do-able, for sure, especially with the 4/8 way joystick.  any other opinions?

[PL1]

The GPIO hook-up is beyond my computer expertise.  I am a far better wood worker than I am "computer programmer" and I am quite sure that I will burn my self a few dozen times with the soldering iron.  So i'm ok spending the $40 for the ipac to save me time.  but it's a great solution

I think 4 buttons is do-able, for sure, especially with the 4/8 way joystick.  any other opinions?

Look into the AVR Encoder.



It is the older firmware/smaller footprint version of the KADE which is releasing in several weeks.

Once KADE releases, the open source Loader program will allow you reprogram the AVR easily, upgrading it to what I (unofficially) call a "KADE-Micro".

It's smaller and less expensive than an I-Pac.

PM Degenatrons for pricing details.


Scott

[Slig]

A wooden mini arcade would be the most epic 5th year anniversary present lol.

[Le Chuck]

Under 12" tall and using fullsize joystick?  Interested to see your design.  I would think using all that nice wood that you wouldn't want it to look like an ornate box with a big joyrod sticking out of it.  I have several "near complete" micros in my workroom right now all at the 12" height and there is no way I could get get a fullsize stick in any of them.  At best I'm doing 1:4 scale controls and that's a cheat at the cabs are all 1:6 scale.  If doing a bartop you're still looking at 1:2 or 1:3 scale.  Just food for thought.  Can't wait to see more.

[kahlid74]

Under 12" tall and using fullsize joystick?  Interested to see your design.  I would think using all that nice wood that you wouldn't want it to look like an ornate box with a big joyrod sticking out of it.  I have several "near complete" micros in my workroom right now all at the 12" height and there is no way I could get get a fullsize stick in any of them.  At best I'm doing 1:4 scale controls and that's a cheat at the cabs are all 1:6 scale.  If doing a bartop you're still looking at 1:2 or 1:3 scale.  Just food for thought.  Can't wait to see more.

Indeed.  Perhaps start a project thread.

As for programming I get that, was just throwing it out there as it's kind of the intended purpose of the Pi.

[jhobbs]

I'm not much of a fan of the wood grain look for arcade cabinets, but I have faith in you.

As for:

...with a big joyrod sticking out of it...

I agree, that'd be a big one, but I think you can change it from, "looking bad" to "a la mode" with proper spacing, I think making sure the joystick didn't obscure the view of the screen would be the biggest issue.

Also, I've really wanted to play Tetris Giant ( http://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=flyer&db=videodb&id=6347&image=1 ). 

[gurnie]

evening,

i'm still figuring things out, but i have awesome luck with "winging" projects and getting things done right

here's a quick photo of the cabinet



both pieces are currently held together with double sided tape until i finish sanding.  i plan to take some walnut veneer and apply it to the edge of the wood. 

i'll be honest i just won't learn programming because i know i'm not good at it and i'm not interested.  i'm good at reading what other people have done and basically copying whatever code, so i can probably put mame on my raspberry pi, but making any sort of encoder?  whoooossssh


PL1 - when i see the AVR Encoder's page, i see all that text and go "FML" is there any sort of programing?  if so i'll go to what i know and choose the i-pac

speaking of controls, http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html this looks perfect for my mini cabinet, but how do you actually switch 4 way to 8 way?  if it's software based then i imagine that it won't be compatible with the raspberry pi.  it would be nice if i could use a small button on the outside of the cabinet to change controls

le chuck - regarding joystick set-up.  i was thinking i'd take a joystick and saw off everything but the last 1/4 - 1" so the joystick is a short piece of metal sticking out of the box.  then i would wood turn a rod, drill a hole to fit around the remaining stick, but kinda taper the stick.  I won't know until i start futzing around, might have to have the metal part be under the box and have the wood stick extend to the joystick box so i don't have to taper the stick.  i also plan to wood turn the ball top... all of this in exotic woods... maybe i can do the buttons in wood material

i also want to play tetris giant jhobbs

[PL1]

Side panel is looking good, Gurnie.

when i see the AVR Encoder's page, i see all that text and go "FML" is there any sort of programing?  if so i'll go to what i know and choose the i-pac

The extra text is for people who already have an AVR lying around and want to program it with the encoder firmware or use different modes like pinball.

If you buy from Degenatrons, he does all the soldering and programming.

After that, the setup process is pretty much the same as as with an IPac -- Run wires from the Normally Open microswitch tabs to input screw terminals and daisy chain all the switch Commons and connect to the ground screw terminal -- easy stuff.

speaking of controls, http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html this looks perfect for my mini cabinet, but how do you actually switch 4 way to 8 way?  if it's software based then i imagine that it won't be compatible with the raspberry pi.  it would be nice if i could use a small button on the outside of the cabinet to change controls

Remember that in addition to the Servostik, you'll also need a Servostik controller board.


Hardware mode allows switching using two buttons or a toggle switch.

Details on how to wire it here under "Hardware Mode" near the bottom of the page.


Scott

[macattack]

looking forward to watching this. I also got a PI for xmas and was looking at making a mini pacman.

I had posted over on the AVR thread sometime back if anyone had used an AVR encoder with the PI, but didn't get a response.

What OS are you looking at running with the PI? the linux distro thats out there with the default mame setup?

Has anyone tested the AVR device on the PI with this distro? does it work out the box?

cool build.

[gurnie]

MacAttack This is the message i got from Degenatrons regarding the AVR Encoder

The encoder will emulate a USB keyboard and a USB/HID Joystick so it should work perfectly with Rasp PI.

No programming is necessary as I have done that part.
Probably best to set it up as keyboard entry mode.  If you have a preferred mapping for the 20 pins then I am happy to set it up for you - if it's different to those which I already list on my projects site.

This AVR will also be compatible with KADE Loader when it is released very shortly (around end February).  With this software you are free to make your own mapping changes in a simple configuration tool.  I would give you early access to BETA version of loader if you needed it to help set up Rasp PI

Now to be honest I was able to get Dameon / Linux onto my raspberry pi, but i have no idea how else I am suppose to go from here.  I found this http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=22403 but the instructions are over my head.  is there a guide out there on how to install it?

[macattack]

Good to know on the avr

Distro wise I created a boot flash card using the pimame setup, seems to work.
http://blog.sheasilverman.com/pimame-raspberry-pi-os-download/

[gurnie]

Macattack,

I was able to install this on a flash drive the other day, but it made my 8GB card a 100MB card and i couldn't install any games.  what did I do wrong?

edit- i should say when i run sudo raspi-config and go to "expand_rootfs - Expand root partition to fill SD card" and restart the raspberry, the file space on the card stays the same!  So when i take the SD card and plug it into my PC to add a rom to it, the card is showing only 39.4 MB free of 55.9 MB (this is an 8 GB card)

any idea?

[macattack]

odd, i use a mac but the how to I followed covers both it and Windows.
http://www.engadget.com/2012/09/04/raspberry-pi-getting-started-guide-how-to/

scroll down to the If you're using Windows section, uses disk imager to apply the image and then the first time you boot you choose the expand rootfs option in the inital screen.

[gurnie]

odd, i use a mac but the how to I followed covers both it and Windows.
http://www.engadget.com/2012/09/04/raspberry-pi-getting-started-guide-how-to/

scroll down to the If you're using Windows section, uses disk imager to apply the image and then the first time you boot you choose the expand rootfs option in the inital screen.

yup i used Win32DiskImager, put PiMame 0.4 on my 8GB SD card.  Ran "raspi-config," ran "expand_rootfs."  The program said that the root system  has been resized and would resize upon the next reboot.  Still my flashcard says 55.9MB of total space on an 8GB card

[GreggB]

Don't forget with the PI that you need a separate powered USB hub in order to use multiple USB devices... I had alot of issues until I figured that one out...

[kahlid74]

So if your in OS command didn't work, you'll have to use GPart or something else you boot to where you can change partition sizes.  I'm not in a place where I can walk you through it, but you'll have to leave the SD card plugged in to your computer and then. Kit to disc and the. Expand the partition.

[gurnie]

A quick update.  Nothing assembled yet







I am starting to see a design flaw - if you are not at eye level with the arcade and you stand taller than the arcade, it's hard to see the screen because of the top of the arcade cabinet... trying to figure out how to fix this issue

i guess most people put the screen vertical (not angled back and set-in like in real sized cabinet).

[gurnie]

No comments / ideas?

[kahlid74]

Sorry, I missed this the other day.  If you look at some of the full size cabs you'll see people have recessed their monitor to an almost 45 degree angle back and some even to 70.  With your dimensions already there, My suggestion would be to decase the screen and go as far back as you can with it.  That thing looks like a boat load of plastic and dead space.  I bet you could get another few CM and that may make the difference for you.

[sharpfork]

RE:

f you are not at eye level with the arcade and you stand taller than the arcade, it's hard to see the screen because of the top of the arcade cabinet...

I asked a question about this very thing in a project thread with a similar albeit larger shape:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129412.msg1324388.html#msg1324388

If comes down to where you expect the cab to be used.  Sitting at a desk or table might work out fine.  Standing "over" it might make for bad viewing angles or the marquee area getting in the way.  With how tiny this cab is, I'd consider getting rid of the part that angles up in the front and just making the control pannel even with the front part.  This would move it down and give you a bit more space to play with monitor positioning.  You might gain some space and ability to angle the screen a bit more if you make the top piece a little less deep.  I personally would make the new or changed parts in cardboard forst then maybe in Masonite/ hardboard for testing.

De-casing is a good idea to get a bit of extra space.

[gurnie]

This is why i like this forum: chances if you have an issue someone else has posted about it before

Great ideas on de-casing the screen, and changing the angle of the screen (based on your thread link) so it sits more straight on VS angled up.

 part of my design (that i have not conveyed yet) is having the control panel come out of the case, maybe have it stick out 2-3 inches (but not too much because it'll become unbalanced.)  so right now the mini arcade looks like the controls are inside that box.  they'll actually hang out a bit

my arcade looks a little fat, maybe that's because it's child's size and growing into its own. 

[EightBySix]

Like the woodwork!

<bookmarked>

[kahlid74]

This is why i like this forum: chances if you have an issue someone else has posted about it before

Great ideas on de-casing the screen, and changing the angle of the screen (based on your thread link) so it sits more straight on VS angled up.

 part of my design (that i have not conveyed yet) is having the control panel come out of the case, maybe have it stick out 2-3 inches (but not too much because it'll become unbalanced.)  so right now the mini arcade looks like the controls are inside that box.  they'll actually hang out a bit

my arcade looks a little fat, maybe that's because it's child's size and growing into its own. 

Typically a full size cabinet has the whole legs to waist ratio to deal with it's "fatness" so yeah, your cabinet is going to be a little pudgy.

[gurnie]

Just some photo updates.  I only get to tool around with this project on occasion:


Control panel.  If i draw enough lines, it'll look like I know what the hell I am doing.


Underside of control panel... with me realizing I need to daisy chain the ground line.  D'oh, made too many unnecessary wires soldered.



control panel in place.  You'll see i made it so the joystick weight is supported because it overhands between the cabinet face... if that makes sense





Control panel in place,  not cut or secured in, but to give an idea of how it is coming along.

That's all I can show for now.

[Aphextwin]

That would be pretty awesome! Good luck