Planning a new panel

[6of1]

I am planning to build a new control panel after being out of the loop for the last 10-11 years. I built a prototype with the dream of building a whole upright cab all those years ago but life gave me a swift kick in the nuts. I'll take some pictures of the utter disappointment that has been in storage for years and just last year brought back in the house.

where I am getting stuck on the new panel is part selection..

I would like to build at least a 2 player (maybe 4 depending on room), 7 button for P1 & P2 (4 buttons for P3 & P4). Trackball, spinner, pinball flippers & dedicated 4-way. I just found http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,59359.msg1308052.html#msg1308052 and i think its kinda the layout I would roll with. maybe a flight stick/tron stick later on like he is doing.

Problem I am having is buttons. I grew quite fond of my 12 year old, clunky, concave, loud, crunchy-ish Happ Competition buttons but I want LED buttons so I can get the ones needed for a game lit (less confusion for family and friends, this panel needs to be more idiot proof).

on to the questions:
anybody know of a video review showing all these different buttons lit in day light and dark conditions?
(it would be quite expencive to buy one of each type, from each place w/leds just to feel and see how well they light)

With these RGB leds you can in a sense change the color of a button. Like say you load up Mario Bros = 4-way lights up & P1B1 and P1B2 turn on red and blue like the old cabinets would be. (I think this is over kill but just thinking out loud).
Are the Electric ICE 2 the only ones that can change color? How well can you see them in a very well lit room?
(i know the transparent/clear ones could but I dont want the ceiling lit, just the button)

I was thinking about getting 2 servostiks from ultimarc, then I can do away with a single dedicated 4-way and get dual 4ways for possible 2 player games. This would save space on my panel for tracball, spinner but i would still need a few buttons next to the spinner i think.
Any Problems with this idea that I'm not thinking of?

[Jumpman64]

This might be useful if you are looking into RGB buttons:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121965.0.html

There was another one for single-color LED buttons.  I'll see if I can locate it...

Found it, and another RGB thread:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,112752.0.html

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121563.0.html

[6of1]

Well after a lot of reading and debate I think the changing colors based on game is way over-kill. Just lighting up the ones needed for a specific game is much more reasonable.

If I understand it all correctly it would be cost prohibitive (for me anyway) to buy enough LED controllers to get the amount of channels I would need to do the color change. just doesn't seem worth it.
==================================
Option 1: Color change everything
2   Joysticks
1   Trackball
1   Spinner
1   Tron Stick
23 Pushbuttons

thats 28 RGB LEDs x 3ch = 84 channels
==================================
Option 2: Color change buttons only and just light up the needed sticks/spin/trackball
Single Color:
2   Joysticks
1   Trackball
1   Spinner
1   Tron Stick
= 5 channels

Color Change RGB:
23 Pushbuttons
= 23 RGB LEDs x 3ch = 69 channels

thats = 74 channels (a lil better)
==================================
Option 3: Bare Minimum, Color change only the 14 main buttons (P1 & P2) and the secondary set by the spinner (3 buttons). Leave flippers black buttons (blend in better) and single color the sticks, tb, spnr..
Single Color:
2   Joysticks
1   Trackball
1   Spinner
1   Tron Stick
= 5 channels

Color Change RGB:
17 Pushbuttons
= 17 RGB LEDs x 3ch = 51 channels

thats = 56 channels (Much better, but still too much)
==================================
Option 4: Everything single color, only lit up to designate which controls are needed for a specific game.
Single Color:
2   Joysticks
1   Trackball
1   Spinner
1   Tron Stick
23 Pushbuttons

thats = 28 channels (I believe the best I can do without breaking the bank)
==================================

I think even after reading the threads suggested by Jumpman64 (thank you) I still am leaning towards the EI2s from GGG. the ClassicRGB from ultimarc look great but they are a little bit more money.

Electric Ice 2 ($2.75)
w/ GroovyMicro™ Premium Soft-Touch (+$0.49)
w/ RGB-Drive II w/ 24" Color Coded Wires (+$2.95)
total: $6.19 each (x 23 = $142.37)

ClassicRGB (7.50)
total: $7.50 each (x 23 = $172.50)

A $30 difference that can go towards a LED controller..

The only real issue I'm still pondering is the fact that those Electric Ice 2 buttons are white unlit (and out of stock).. I know they have to be white in order to take on the color of the LED but white buttons unlit are just that "white buttons" and arcades to me should been colorful..

This stuff has come a LONG way in the last 10 years, me catching up is gonna take a bit.

[Nephasth]

I have a preference for translucent IL buttons combined with black IL buttons. You can find them at Paradise Arcade Shop.

MK3 layout.


NeoGeo layout.


I also prefer to use Ultimarc's PACLED64 over the LEDWiz. It can handle 21 RGB LEDs independently.

[6of1]

I have a preference for translucent IL buttons combined with black IL buttons. You can find them at Paradise Arcade Shop.

MK3 layout.


NeoGeo layout.


I also prefer to use Ultimarc's PACLED64 over the LEDWiz. It can handle 21 RGB LEDs independently.

I did see your panel Nep, but I was afraid they weren't going to be bright enough for my dim friends, pun intended.. do they show up well in a full lit room just being the rings? do you have any dark room pics also?

is this what you used:
IL-lumination RGB 5VDC LED            ($2.75)
Clear IL Translucent Pushbutton...     ($2.75)
Black IL Concave Pushbutton PSL-L   ($2.00)

Kinda hurts to buy 2 full sets (with the extra switches to boot) just to get around the milky white buttons but your setup is much easier on the eyes. if yours came with the "Default 50 gram switch" do you know if it feels anything like the 10 year old happ ones I'm use to or are that quiet and soft?

[Nephasth]

Those pics are in a fully lit room in daylight. Here's an "in the dark" shot...


The 50 gram switches are clicky, but not hard to actuate. I'd say they're a happy medium. That parts list is what I used, but they were cheaper back when I got all my stuff.

[6of1]

I called the wife in the room to see your setup... Its been approved, lol..  I didn't tell her the price yet though  I can live on bologna samitches for a while if I gotta..

I guess that means I can start making a shopping list (wish list).. thanks guys