Scored a free 32" Trinitron, need help getting PC display to it!

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

Hey folks,

Ok, so it's been a long while since I dealt with analog anything, but I couldn't let this slip by! 

A guy in my neighborhood gave away this 32" Sony Trinitron XBR (Model:KV32XBR200) for free because he was moving and didn't want to deal with it.  Can't say I blame him, damn thing weighs 175 lbs.  As y'all know, I don't have a lot of space myself, but the gf and I are also thinking of moving to a bigger space in spring/summer - so I'm getting ahead of the game, so to speak!

Here's the facts:

TV has composite, S-Video, and Component (YPbPr) inputs, and according to this Wikipedia article, is up to 480i compatible. (I assume that's over the component inputs.)

PC has VGA, DVI and HDMI output options (from Intel HD3000 built-in graphics on the i5-2500K CPU I have).  No room for discreet GPU.

What's the best (and cheapest, if possible) way of getting PC display on this TV if I want to use the component inputs?

I'm guessing a transcoder of some kind is in order, but I've never dealt with those. Found this HDMI-to-component one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/770115-REG/KanexPro_HDRGBRL_HDMI_to_Component_Converter.html -- which I could go buy tomorrow at the actual store.  Seems overpriced, but hey if I can get it tomorrow...

Also, let's say I do buy that converter above: does that mean that I would somehow need to set my HDMI output on the PC to 640x480 for it to display properly on the TV? Am I understanding that correctly?  (... because ... that's gonna be a problem in Win7, isn't it?)

I may just buy an easy/cheap VGA-to-Svideo adapter off Monoprice and call it good. It's only going to be used for MAME and console emulators, so I don't really need the top end of this TV's resolution - but I want it if I can get it, and spend less than $100 to do so.

EDIT: If you can't see it, picture is a PS2 hooked up via component.

[Felsir]

I think that component is going to be a problem. The signal produced by the PC and that converter will be higher than 480i (and indeed I was not able to switch my win7 to 640x480).

[DeLuSioNal29]

You need to check out this thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121491.msg1288804.html#msg1288804

D

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

You need to check out this thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121491.msg1288804.html#msg1288804

I had just started reading that thread actually (thanks for the heads up!), but there's a lot of data in there to sort through and absorb.   That said, you have helped me to clarify some things for myself; I'm not really concerned about getting true arcade resolutions on this monitor, and I definitely don't want to mess around with Soft15kHz -- never mind that I can't find a single thing that says the i5's GPU supports it anyway.

I've Googled a crude way to get Win 7 into 640x480 and found this. If I can get that to display properly on the TV with that converter, that'd be an ok start.  Or am I still missing something from the thread? Like I said, I haven't read all the way through it...

The more I think about it, the more I feel like it'd be cheaper and easier for me in the short term to just drop down to S-video for these purposes, especially since I'm not shooting for native res...

Either way, I'm locked into (and very happy with) my current PC hardware setup, so any solution has to come from something modular, outside the system.

Any more thoughts? I'll keep slogging through that thread...

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

Hmm... reading. It's good for you. 

640x480 VGA does NOT equal 480i, even with a converter. Got that.

This looks promising: http://video-123.com/pctocomponent.html <-- Price isn't bad, either. Anybody ever ordered from them?

[PL1]

In this post, MonMotha mentions using an analog video converter instead of digital to avoid video lag.

Hope this helps, Christopher.   


Scott

[Gray_Area]

I remember someone mentioning hooking up an XBR.....or perhaps I came upon a someone's page where they used one.....and them figuring out a neat video solution. Google for that.

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

After thinking about it for a while, I think I'm going to go with an inexpensive VGA->Svid adapter for now, just to goof around with emulators and such until I get bored with it and/or the gf forces me to put the monitor back into storage. 

(This thing is a huge, huge beast! Takes more floor space and is definitely heavier than the whole Final Stage cabinet! I had to buy Forearm Forklift straps just to move the thing safely!)

Once we've moved to a bigger place and I'm ready to put this monster to use in a full-fledged project (showcase cab ), I'll go ahead and pony up the bucks for a decent transcoder like the one rCadeGaming has in his setup.

[Jack Burton]

MonMotha has mentioned a few times that certain older video cards can output any resolution you want over component.  The ATI HD2400 Pro may be one of them.

I think this TV is a prime candidate for finding one such card.  If you can, there will be no need to worry about a transcoder as long as you stick to emulation. 

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

MonMotha has mentioned a few times that certain older video cards can output any resolution you want over component.  The ATI HD2400 Pro may be one of them.

I think this TV is a prime candidate for finding one such card.  If you can, there will be no need to worry about a transcoder as long as you stick to emulation. 

We'll see what the situation looks like when the time comes (might be a while) but if I stick with my current PC setup, discreet GPU is not an option. See this thread.

In the meantime, I've got the PS2 hooked up over component and I've literally just noticed a weird warping/geometry flaw in the upper left corner of the screen. I don't have the remote, so I'm going to have to search online for service menu options...  see if I can't fix it. This monitor might not be so great after all.

[RandyT]

If you are gong to go the converter route, stick with component.  No reason to go S-video if you are already shelling out money.  But just to make sure, try hooking up another source to each of the S-video and Component inputs, and do a comparison.  I've heard that some TV's do a really quick and dirty conversion on Component which isn't appreciably better than S-video.  I'd like to think a large Sony unit wouldn't fall into this category, but you never know.

Look for reviews on the converters and make sure there isn't excessive lag, tearing while scrolling, etc...  They aren't all created equal.

If you are getting geometry distortions, try tweaking the brightness and contrast settings.  It could be overdriving things a bit and this could cause blooming and other artifacts.  It could also be that it just wasn't all that good to begin with.  TV's don't need the same level of geometric uniformity as a monitor, so you really can't expect as much from them.

[ark_ader]

Be cheaper getting a component cable and a Xbox1 with CoinOPS. 

My thought is that you want to play classic games on the TV right?

I have done the PC to TV route and it seriously is pretty crappy.

Waste of time.

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

If you are gong to go the converter route, stick with component...

If you are getting geometry distortions, try tweaking the brightness and contrast settings.  It could be overdriving things a bit and this could cause blooming and other artifacts.  It could also be that it just wasn't all that good to begin with.  TV's don't need the same level of geometric uniformity as a monitor, so you really can't expect as much from them.

Yeah Randy, of course you're right about the transcoder in the long run, but for right now, $20 (VGA->Svid) is a lot different than $180 (a decent no-lag transcoder, per rCadeGaming's analog setup) for me right now. I mean, this whole thing is just a silly side project because I got a free tv.  I still haven't spent any money.

I'm more concerned in the long run by this geometry issue. I've attached and doctored up a picture to hopefully show you what I'm seeing.  It's much more notable and egregious with anything running horizontal near that upper left corner ... such as a fighting game health bar.  I didn't get the remote with the tv, and apparently you need it to adjust ANY settings (both basic, and even the "hidden" service menu settings.) Now I'm working on if a replacement is possible, or even worth the time/money to acquire. If you can believe it, there's an actual TV repair man in my neighborhood who's searching his stash as we speak...

Who knows, the thing may end up back out on the curb before the end of the week.  It's not like I don't have other things to do, or other ways to play games...

Be cheaper getting a component cable and a Xbox1 with CoinOPS. 

My thought is that you want to play classic games on the TV right?

I have done the PC to TV route and it seriously is pretty crappy.

Waste of time.

I... uhh... yeah. Umm. Ok? Thanks. Yeah, I just... umm... I just can't. Yeah. 

[RandyT]

Yeah Randy, of course you're right about the transcoder in the long run, but for right now, $20 (VGA->Svid) is a lot different than $180 (a decent no-lag transcoder, per rCadeGaming's analog setup) for me right now. I mean, this whole thing is just a silly side project because I got a free tv.  I still haven't spent any money.

It took me a bit of work, but I think I may have found something in a reasonable price range which will do what you are looking for.  It's interesting to note that some of the negative reviews about this device are fueled by something that actually works in your favor in this circumstance.  You need a down-conversion to 480i on the component, which many don't want, so they complain about it.  Not an issue here, and it's $40+shipping.  You might even be able to find one cheaper on ebay.  But still, no clue as to whether the quality will be better than S-Video.

I'm more concerned in the long run by this geometry issue. I've attached and doctored up a picture to hopefully show you what I'm seeing.  It's much more notable and egregious with anything running horizontal near that upper left corner ... such as a fighting game health bar.  I didn't get the remote with the tv, and apparently you need it to adjust ANY settings (both basic, and even the "hidden" service menu settings.) Now I'm working on if a replacement is possible, or even worth the time/money to acquire. If you can believe it, there's an actual TV repair man in my neighborhood who's searching his stash as we speak...

Yeah, that's not too bad.  If you adjust the brightness down, you will probably see that condition improve.  A small tweak of the HV control inside the TV might help to fix it if the standard controls don't.  Universal remotes are dirt cheap nowadays, but you may need a real one to get to the service menus.

[rCadeGaming]

MonMotha has mentioned a few times that certain older video cards can output any resolution you want over component.  The ATI HD2400 Pro may be one of them.

This is actually capable of outputting 15kHz progressive custom resolutions and tweaking in Powerstrip, etc.?  If someone could confirm this that would be great.  I need the transcoder anyway for all of my consoles, but it would a good recommendation for others.

I've got the PS2 hooked up over component and I've literally just noticed a weird warping/geometry flaw in the upper left corner of the screen. I don't have the remote, so I'm going to have to search online for service menu options...  see if I can't fix it. This monitor might not be so great after all.

This is what you want:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-TV-VCR-RM-Y180-REMOTE-CONTROL-4-KV-32FS100-WEGA-/290841907331?pt=US_Remote_Controls&hash=item43b7875083

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-RM-Y180-XBR-WEGA-TV-REMOTE-CONTROL-TESTED-CHEAP-W-BATTERIES-12-12-/400384908882?pt=US_Remote_Controls&hash=item5d38ccde52

These smaller ones are nice too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-SONY-TV-REMOTE-CONTROL-WEGA-BLACK-RM-Y173-KV-20FS100-KV-13FS110-20FS12-/140878941390?pt=US_Remote_Controls&hash=item20cd0a0cce

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-RM-Y173-WEGA-TV-Remote-to-KV-24FS100-KV-4FV300-KV-20FS100-KV-20FS12-TESTED-/150975208043?pt=US_Remote_Controls&hash=item2326d2da6b

The Sony remotes of this era are interchangeable and really common.  I have a bunch of these and they all work with my different Sony's.  I can send you one of the larger ones for the cost of shipping if you promise not to waste the TV by scaling everything up.  Third Strike looks waaay better with real scanlines in 224p 

Anyhow, there are several adjustments in the service menu that would help you with that, like separate upper and lower corner pincushion adjustments.  Looks like you need to rotate the whole thing counterclockwise a little, shift left, do some trapezoid and parallelogram adjustment, etc.  You need to feed it some test patterns to get a better idea.

I have done the PC to TV route and it seriously is pretty crappy.

Waste of time.

Don't go around spreading misinformation because you didn't set things up properly.

It took me a bit of work, but I think I may have found something in a reasonable price range which will do what you are looking for.

No, that is a digital converter.  It will destroy native resolutions and cause lag.  You need a proper analog transcoder that will translate colorspace only.

[sharpfork]

Be cheaper getting a component cable and a Xbox1 with CoinOPS. 
My thought is that you want to play classic games on the TV right?
I have done the PC to TV route and it seriously is pretty crappy.

xBox is easier.  This specific issue is what pushed me in the xBox direction.

After having a super rough time with XP and linux, I was very very surprised that win 7 + an older ATI video card (x1650 I think) supported 480i via component with this thing out of the box, not ATI drivers at all:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?seq=1&format=2&p_id=2398&CAWELAID=1329459247&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CILU54nG3LQCFQWonQodVU8A1w
my video card is not defined as being supported BTW.
It actually supported Tate/ vertical monitor with the native windows drivers too (notice the username):

I had to use second higher rez monitor to get it setup:

for reference, XP was never quite right:

[RandyT]

It took me a bit of work, but I think I may have found something in a reasonable price range which will do what you are looking for.

No, that is a digital converter.  It will destroy native resolutions and cause lag.  You need a proper analog transcoder that will translate colorspace only.

  The replies in this thread have gone so far off track, I'd be surprised if the OP isn't thoroughly confused or ready to give up at this point.

A: OP states Intel on-board video.  No space in PC for add-in card.  Does not do 480i resolution.
B: TV is an actual TV.  480i capability only.

In light of A: and B:, neither an add-in card, nor a simple color space translator will help his dilemma.  He needs a true down-converter and colorspace transcoder.  At the low-price point, it won't be extremely pretty, nor lag free, but it's one of the few boxes out there in that range which will convert a higher VGA resolution to 480i and is capable of component output.

[MonMotha]

FWIW, some Intel onboard video is capable of 480i, but I don't think any of the Windows drivers will allow it, and the OP probably does not want to run Linux...

Some of the Intel stuff is NOT capable, so YMMV even on Linux.  There was also a driver bug about 2 years ago that broke all interlaced modes on Intel graphics, but it has since been corrected.

Also, it's possible to make a digital colorspace transcoder that "does the right thing" in this application.  I don't know of any, and there may not be any popular ones on the market, but it's certainly possible.

[rCadeGaming]

After having a super rough time with XP and linux, I was very very surprised that win 7 + an older ATI video card (x1650 I think) supported 480i via component with this thing out of the box, not ATI drivers at all:

That's cool with the dongle and all, but I'm not sure why you would go to a lot of work to use 480i.

A: OP states Intel on-board video.  No space in PC for add-in card.  Does not do 480i resolution.

Very capable Soft15kHz/GroovyMAME compatible cards are available on eBay for as little as $15.  As long as he has an AGP, PCI, or PCI-e slot open, there's no reason to stick with the on-board video.

B: TV is an actual TV.  480i capability only.

The OP is not the one who is confused here.  "Standard def" TV's run at 15kHz, meaning that they're capable of 480i OR 240p.  This has been the case for over 60 years.  The NES didn't output 480i, it ran at around 240p.  The Genesis didn't output 480i, it ran around 240p.  Need I go on?

90% of the games in MAME originally ran around 240p.  MAME is capable of generating proper native res around 240p.  The right video card is capable of outputting proper native res around 240p.  The right colorspace transcoder is capable of converting this from VGA to component WITHOUT altering resolution or adding a single frame of lag.  The TV is capable of accepting this proper native res around 240p on its component input and displaying it properly.

I have all this working.  Check the second link in my signature.  Already mentioned by both Delusional and the OP btw.  The right video card is anything listed as compatible with Soft15kHz, preferably an ATI for full compatibility with GroovyMAME.  The right transcoder is a Crescendo Systems TC1600.  If you need something cheaper, a Kramer FC-14 or even a JROK could be made to work.

Running in native res is the only way to get the optimum picture from these games, with the clearest picture, one to one reproduction of the original pixels, real scanlines, etc; and this TV is capable of doing so, so it should be used to the fullest.  When set up correctly, a really good standard def TV (like a Sony Trinitron) can easily rival an arcade monitor for 240p content.

[RandyT]

The OP is not the one who is confused here.  "Standard def" TV's run at 15kHz, meaning that they're capable of 480i OR 240p.  This has been the case for over 60 years.  The NES didn't output 480i, it ran at around 240p.  The Genesis didn't output 480i, it ran around 240p.  Need I go on?

240p or 480i.  It's not really relevant to the issue.  It's the same horizontal frequency with the same issues the OP is hoping to overcome.

Very capable Soft15kHz/GroovyMAME compatible cards are available on eBay for as little as $15.  As long as he has an AGP, PCI, or PCI-e slot open, there's no reason to stick with the on-board video.

I can't speak for the OP, only go on what he states.  He states that he has no room for an additional card, so I'm taking his word on that.  He also doesn't seem to want to mess around with custom timing settings and so on, nor did he state that he was only interested in getting MAME to run.  So unless you have a link to a generic driver somewhere for his Intel HD3000 built-in graphics, which can do all of what you are referring to, the only real solution is a digital down-scaler.  The problems lie in the limitations, and disregarding those limitations won't lead to any type of solution.

You are providing good solutions, but they seem to be related to a different problem.

[rCadeGaming]

You are right.  He did say no room for a graphics card in the current PC; I missed that.

if I stick with my current PC setup

Sounds using that PC is up in the air though.  If he could migrate the CPU and other components to a larger board, motherboards are pretty cheap these days.   Wouldn't need to fit everything in such a small case once it's in the cabinet.

240p or 480i.  It's not really relevant to the issue.  It's the same horizontal frequency with the same issues the OP is hoping to overcome.

This is totally relevant.  Whether he solves the problem by going native or by scaling to 480i will be an immense difference in the final picture quality; blurry, scaled 480i with interlace feathering and no scanlines, versus correct, clear progressive native res with nice bold scanlines.  We haven't even gotten into refresh rate either, and the differences there.  Furthermore, he has a lagless CRT.  It should be considered unacceptable for gameplay to start screwing that up with scaling lag.

Once we've moved to a bigger place and I'm ready to put this monster to use in a full-fledged project (showcase cab ), I'll go ahead and pony up the bucks for a decent transcoder like the one rCadeGaming has in his setup.

He says right there he might go toward the direction I'm suggesting in the long run, so I'm encouraging it, as the end result will use that TV to its full potential.

I wouldn't spend the money on an intermediate solution, but if he really wants to, he could get an Extron Super Emotia which will accept simple 480p over VGA and output it as 480i or 240p, without lag.  Would still have to transcode to component though.

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

I love that this seemingly nothing topic has begat such discussion. I love that (the vast majority of) this community is able to be passionate, yet civil. 

First things first: getting the picture shaped right - if I can't do that, I'm curbing the TV. rCade, I'll PM you about remotes, but in the meantime: the model number for this tv is KV-32XBR200, and according to Sony, the compatible remote is RM-Y144. I believe you when you say a lot of those remotes are interchangeable, but I want this info in the thread for future reference. 

Ultimately, I'm not going to change my current hardware until it's absolutely necessary (and with the glacial pace of the emulation scene, it's going to be a while.) I've got it tuned now to where it is most usable for my current purposes -- anything else added to the equation at this point has to compromise around it.  That said, I agree with rCade in that, if you're going to go this route, you might as well get the best quality you can get out of it. Sadly though, I'm in a position where, if I am to enjoy this wonderful free thing at all in the near future, I'm going to have to split the difference somehow.  It's not going to be "perfect" until my currently glacial budget (which, as a reminder, takes into account my current housing situation, i.e. this is Bigger Picture and Longer Term than just discretionary hobby money) has a chance to catch up...  and I'm ok with that. 

I live in Manhattan... which, translated from the native language, means "negotiation and compromise." 

[rCadeGaming]

That processor needs an LGA 1155 socket right?  There are some budget mobo's on with decent ratings on Newegg for around $75.  You could skip a few lunches to pay for that and a cheap PCI-e graphics card on eBay.

The biggest problem will be the transcoder.   The TC1600 is $180.  I can't personally vouch for anything else being totally compatible with custom timing values though.  It seems like the cheaper Audio Authority unit has problems with this.  There's a more bare bones TC1500 for $140 that lacks some adjustments, but I haven't tried it.  If you're up to it, you could try wiring up a VGA to SCART adapter, and using a cheap eBay SCART to component converter.  That might be the cheapest option:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item337dfa167b

I used that exact unit with my SNES and Genesis for a while before upgrading to the TC1600.  It worked very well with all the weird resolutions around 240p that they put out.

A JROK would probably also work well if you wire up an adapter to converter h and v to c sync.  Not sure how much those are though, apparently you have to email.

For now, I'd just continue to enjoy consoles until you get the funds.  If it really has bad geometry problems that can't be fixed with the service menu (doubtful) you could get a replacement Trinitron for $0-50 on Craigslist.

These test patterns will be great for service menu adjustments if you can get them onto your TV somehow:

http://rcadegaming.com/images/testpatterns/640x480-color.bmp

http://rcadegaming.com/images/testpatterns/640x480-geometry-white.bmp

http://rcadegaming.com/images/testpatterns/320x240-brightness-color-contrast.bmp

I transfer them to my PS3 with a flash stick.  I forget if you can do that with a PS2.

[RandyT]

We'll see what the situation looks like when the time comes (might be a while) but if I stick with my current PC setup, discreet GPU is not an option. See this thread.

That processor needs an LGA 1155 socket right?  There are some budget mobo's on with decent ratings on Newegg for around $75.  You could skip a few lunches to pay for that and a cheap PCI-e graphics card on eBay.

Look at his link above.  It's a tiny case.

[rCadeGaming]

Wouldn't need to fit everything in such a small case once it's in the cabinet.

[RandyT]

Wouldn't need to fit everything in such a small case once it's in the cabinet.

So it doesn't matter that he wishes to keep it in the small case? Or not to have to purchase a new motherboard and graphics card to support a freebie TV?

There's a fairly substantial difference between "How do I make X work with Y?" and "What is the best way to make Y work?".  You've got the latter pegged, but he's really not asking that question.  No matter though, as I'm pretty sure he has enough information to decide how/if to proceed at this point.

[Gray_Area]

A machine that won't allow an outboard card?  Sadness.  And sadder, because you can get 'em that do, or even have one in there, cheap.

But, here is the crux of the matter, as I found out when I was checking out component, mainly for shits and giggles: if it's more work than you're wanting....or maybe just any work.....don' doo et. Just say NO.

[rCadeGaming]

But, here is the crux of the matter, as I found out when I was checking out component, mainly for shits and giggles: if it's more work than you're wanting....or maybe just any work.....don' doo et. Just say NO.

Not sure what you mean.  All of the work lies in getting native res outputting from the PC itself.  If using a display that requires component, it's only an extra minute to plug in the transcoder.

I think you mean to say it's a lot of work going to native res.  It's not any more difficult do this with component than it is with VGA output straight to an arcade monitor or something like that.

[RyoriNoTetsujin]

Ok, I'm going to try to be diplomatic about this, so don't take it the wrong way...

I don't appreciate having my repeatedly stated specifications, especially my budget, ignored. From the beginning of this thread, I set out what I was interested in doing, and I thought I was very clear in setting out what I was willing to do to get there. If I somehow wasn't, for that I do apologize.

Even more so, I really don't appreciate the judgemental, flippant attitudes toward my current setup. I put considerable time and thought (and budget, when I had some available) into purchasing and assembling a system that caters very well to ALL of my current needs -- some of which I suppose haven't been clear here (I shouldn't expect you to have read a different thread, on a different board, to have something constructive to add to this one) but most of which have been clearly stated and, again, oft ignored. Am I an idiot who somehow is unaware of his own needs?  Look at my cab thread: not for nothing... but (for the most part) I think I know what I'm doing.

That previous line sounds egotistical, but please don't misunderstand me; I've gotten some good information from this thread, I've been pointed in some interesting directions, done some reading and learned more than I expected, and for that I am greatly appreciative. Thank you, really. 

That said? This thread is done. I've already moved forward on what I intend to do. Let's move on.

[rCadeGaming]

Wow, sorry.  Not sure what I did to be so offensive.  You said right here that you might ultimately go in the direction I was talking about:

Once we've moved to a bigger place and I'm ready to put this monster to use in a full-fledged project (showcase cab ), I'll go ahead and pony up the bucks for a decent transcoder like the one rCadeGaming has in his setup.

This is why I was suggesting some options that you could use at that point. 

I don't appreciate having my repeatedly stated specifications, especially my budget, ignored.

I did not mean to ignore your budget either.  I went out of my way to think of the cheapest way some of this stuff could be done (the eBay SCART converter); and yes I realized that you still can't do that right now because of the motherboard cost, which is why I suggested how to fix your current geometry issues and to live with it as is for now.

Sorry for pressing to hard about native res.  If you still don't wish to get into that, you could set your current PC to output at everything at 640x480 progressive, then run that through an Extron Emotia which will scale it down to a resolution your TV will accept.  There's a simple switch right on the front to toggle between 480i and 240p, and it has an S-video output you could plug right into your TV.  If you watch eBay long enough you might be able to find one for as little as $20.  That is the best thing I can think of to totally fit your original requirements.

Even more so, I really don't appreciate the judgemental, flippant attitudes toward my current setup.

I didn't say a single thing about your current setup beyond how to fix your geometry problem.

[Gray_Area]

I think you mean to say it's a lot of work going to native res.  It's not any more difficult do this with component than it is with VGA output straight to an arcade monitor or something like that.

Sometimes just having to get a cable is a hassle. I meant, know what you're willing to do, and stick with it. Ryo did and has. I was acknowledging that. (Although, I'd never get a machine that didn't have *some* add-on capability. Aside from mobile devices, I didn't know there were any that were so....destitute.)