One button to start them all....

[Hammerbot]

Throw it in the trash. (or sell it on e-bay to another sucker.)

Go by a 12 volt relay and wire a power strip to it.

The relay's only sensitivity is to being smashed with a hammer if you miss when trying to hit the Smart strip.

Fool proof, even for me.

[JustMichael]

Soslo, do you happen to have a monitor plugged into the back of the pc?  I have seen some people's setup like that.  Then when the power supply is on so is the monitor.  If yours is like this I would suggest plugging the monitor into the smart strip instead of into the computer (might need a new cord for this).  Also which version of the powerstrip is it?  I am using the LCG2 and it works just fine (after adjusting).  Have you tried emailing the company?

[soslo]

JustMichael, no, I don't have the monitor plugged into the computer...

I have the LGC1..four of them actually.

I'll contact the place today...I already tossed the boxes for two of them because I thought they were working. I didn't realize at the time that they'd only work for about half the day.

Hammerbot, I might just do the relay thing. It burns me that I dumped $112 into these things.

[mnapuran]

Check this out as a nice option.... http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=13505

-Mike N

[soslo]

Mike, let us know when you get that new product going...

[mnapuran]

Mike, let us know when you get that new product going...

Here is the first production unit...



We should have some units in stock to possibly start offering in January.

The timers are settable in 1/2 second increments, on both a startup delay, and a latching delay.... and can latch up to 4 separate devices, with up to an 8amp load per unit!  

Obviouslly... you wont need an 8amp load to switch on the PC power supply or switch on a TV used for your MAME cab, but it's a nice option!  And yes, it does handle both AC and DC switching loads.

-Mike

[soslo]

JustMichael, no, I don't have the monitor plugged into the computer...

I have the LGC1..four of them actually.

I'll contact the place today...I already tossed the boxes for two of them because I thought they were working. I didn't realize at the time that they'd only work for about half the day.

Hammerbot, I might just do the relay thing. It burns me that I dumped $112 into these things.

Update: It appears that these things don't work for the first day or two, then start working normally...totally weird, I know.

All of them give me fits for the first day (even messing with the sensitivity doesn't matter) - then the next day or so they seem to work.

[hulkster]

"One button to start them all.....one button to find them, one button to rule them all, and in the mameness bind them"

sorry had to throw in the old nerd reference.  (insert conan obrien nerd impression here)

[rtb1982]

Everyone is talking about a solution that requires you to have a computer monitor if im not mistaken.  How do you get a TV to turn on and off each time you push the power button on your CPU?

[rampy]

Everyone is talking about a solution that requires you to have a computer monitor if im not mistaken.  How do you get a TV to turn on and off each time you push the power button on your CPU?

You can do it with a TV... but you need to have a TV that powers up after power failure... (Something you should look for when purchasing a TV for MAME cabinet use... also check for one that remembers which input it was using after power failure...else you'll need to keep the damn remote handy for the TV...not very arcade like at all!) .... Seveal BYOACers have gotten funny looks at best buy and circuit city putting tv's on svideo and unplugging them and pluggin them back in (check the monitor forum for threads about TV's with this "feature")

*Shrug*  Also note there is a work around for some cheapo TV's (the ones that require remote to turn on after power failure)...it's called the paper clip trick (warning ... your mileage may vary... not my fault if you eff up your TV) You use a paperclip or othe item to wedge the front power button on the TV in the depressed state (obviously only works on certain tv's and specific type of power pushbutton) .

good luck!

rampy

PS I still love my 20 beans Sears Auto switch thingie...  cast your  relays into mount doom =P

[eightbit]

PS I still love my 20 beans Sears Auto switch thingie...  cast your  relays into mount doom =P

I've done 4 with the sears auto switcher and I haven't had one not work.

[Serpent]

I have a very simple solution. I'm using a PC with ArcadeVGA pluged into a SCART TV. I have everything connected to a normal power strip. When I push the I/O button on the power strip, everthing turns on and I have display on my TV. I've got this setting up a few things. First, you have to enter your computer bios and look for an option under the power up section which refers to power up on AC loss (or something alike) which results in your CPU automatically switching on as soon as it receives power (no need to push the PC case button). Secondly, you have to leave your speakers and TV on (of course they're off when the power strip button is set to O. Now, the way to automatically have display on the TV is simple. You have to modify your ArcadeVGA to SCART cable and get 12v to pin number 8 on the scart connector (you can have power from a free HD connector from your PC). This way, when you push the powerstrip button and the computer turns on, the TV automatically selects SCART and you have display. The only dissadvantage of this method to start it all with one button is that when you turn off your computer from windows, you have to remember to push again the power strip button to turn off everything else.

[1UP]

Throw it in the trash. (or sell it on e-bay to another sucker.)

Go by a 12 volt relay and wire a power strip to it.

The relay's only sensitivity is to being smashed with a hammer if you miss when trying to hit the Smart strip.

Fool proof, even for me.

Throw your RELAYS in the trash!  They will end up trashing your computer.  I was so proud of my relay/powerstrip hack until I noticed problems with my computer.  It would start hanging and crashing whenever the video card would use a lot of cycles.  I suspect the power supply was damaged over time by the relay back-current, as I stupidly did not include a diode in my setup.  I ended up having to throw out the PC AND the hacked strip!  The problems never happened before I started using the hack, so I'm pretty sure it was to blame.

I recently switched over to a Bits Ltd Smartstrip when I got my new PC, and it gave me problems at first, but I contacted the company and they sent me out a pre-production version of the newer adjustable strip as a replacement.

I spent a few minutes playing with sensitivity, as at first, it wouldn't power up with the PC.  Set the sensitivity higher, and it was leaving the marquee light on for a few seconds after PC power-down.  Set it somewhere in the middle, and no problems whatsoever!  Push the remote power button on top of the cab, and everything powers right up!  Push again when I'm done, WinXP closes all apps and exits gracefully, powering down the whole cab.

I have never tried the Sears one, but I would definitely recommend some kind of power-sensing strip.  Never again will I trust the switching of 120V to home-brewed circuitry...  

[mushmouth]

Does Windows 98SE have the ability to do an orderly shutdown like that? I've been wondering how I'm going to pull this off with my Pentium3 450 running 98SE...

[JustMichael]

I run Win98SE and I don't have it shutdown at all.  I tell people to exit back to the menu if they want their scores saved before powering off the cab.  I have setup windows not to automatically run scandisk.  I haven't had a single problem with it setup this way.

[1UP]

I think Win98 might be able to do an unattended shutdown, as long as your motherboard supports it.  Try setting your BIOS to enable ACPI.  In Windows, go into your display settings, go to Screen Saver, click Power at the bottom, and see if there are any options for advanced power management, or there may be settings for what to do when you push the power/sleep button, etc.

If none of this stuff is available, and all you get when you click "Shut Down" is a screen that says "It is now safe to turn off your computer" then your system hardware probably just doesn't support it.

Might just be time to step up to a newer system... pricewatch, baby...  AthlonXP 1900 + mobo + case = $100  You'll be glad you did!  

[PacManFan]

I don't know whta ll the hubub is about, but I have to throw my .02$ in as well, It seems to me, the easiest solution is to use a relay. I just built on the other day for my Space Dual Cabinet, and it couldn't have been simpler, or working any better.

I modified a wall socket and mounted into a metal electrical box with a relay. One side of the socket is wired as normal with 120VAC. That powers the computer. The other side of the socket is connected with the relay to the 120VAC, and triggered by 12vdc from the computer power supply. I have a normal power strip plugged into that with the monitor,marquee light, and speakers.

One touch to the computer power button, and the monitor, speakers, computer, and marquee all come on.
One more touch, and the computer shuts down and everything turns off.

If someone is relly dieing for it, I can post the schematic and pictures.

Total cost, about  ~4$

-PMF

[eightbit]

I don't know whta ll the hubub is about, but I have to throw my .02$ in as well, It seems to me, the easiest solution is to use a relay. I just built on the other day for my Space Dual Cabinet, and it couldn't have been simpler, or working any better.

I modified a wall socket and mounted into a metal electrical box with a relay. One side of the socket is wired as normal with 120VAC. That powers the computer. The other side of the socket is connected with the relay to the 120VAC, and triggered by 12vdc from the computer power supply. I have a normal power strip plugged into that with the monitor,marquee light, and speakers.

One touch to the computer power button, and the monitor, speakers, computer, and marquee all come on.
One more touch, and the computer shuts down and everything turns off.

The easiest solution is to use the $20 Sears current sensing strip or the more expensive bitsmart strip. I can do the Sears strip without tools, I don't know how you could make it easier than that. The cheapest solution is what you propose. I've done 4 different computers with the sears strip and have not had ANY issues.

[Popcorrin]

Total cost $4?  Where did you buy your relay?  I got mine at Radio Shack for $8.  Prdct# 275-218.

[slycrel]

  The auto-poweroff in windows seems to be 100% tied to your motherboard.  If your mobo supports advanced power management stuff, and generally any ATX mobo will, you should be fine.  If you see the "waiting to shutdown" screen when shutting down windows then it probably won't work.  The easiest test is to try it out.  That's how I first learned that you could do that -- my 1 year old daughter pressed the power button and all of a sudden XP started shutting down my programs and turned itself off.  

[markjen1]

The easiest solution is to use the $20 Sears current sensing strip or the more expensive bitsmart strip. I can do the Sears strip without tools, I don't know how you could make it easier than that. The cheapest solution is what you propose. I've done 4 different computers with the sears strip and have not had ANY issues.

I have some questions about using the Sears Power Switch...

I just picked mine up yesterday.

Concern #1: The package says, "Use only for stationary power tools and their accessories; voltage fluctuations may damage other electrical equipment".  Is this something to be concerned about?  Has anybody experienced any problems as a result of using one of these?


Concern #2:  It says that this device is for use with wall recepticles only.  Does this mean I can not plug it into an extension cord?
[wall outlet- Extension cord- Sears unit- computer]

If so, can I plug extension cords into the unit in order to get to my machine?
[outlet- sears unit- extension cord- computer]

And if I do this second setup, I will have to run at least 2 extension cords, correct?  The first will be running from the "power tool" or main receptacle, and the other from the "accessories" receptacle.

If I only run one of the "accessories" receptacles (as opposed to both and thus a third extension cord) can I plug in an outlet strip (into that extension cord which is plugged into the sears unit which is plugged into the wall) so that I can have all three "accessory" devices (monitor, marquee light, and speakers) plugged in?

Thanks in advance for any replies...

Mark.

[eightbit]

I have some questions about using the Sears Power Switch...

I just picked mine up yesterday.

Concern #1: The package says, "Use only for stationary power tools and their accessories; voltage fluctuations may damage other electrical equipment".  Is this something to be concerned about?  Has anybody experienced any problems as a result of using one of these?


Concern #2:  It says that this device is for use with wall recepticles only.  Does this mean I can not plug it into an extension cord?
[wall outlet- Extension cord- Sears unit- computer]

If so, can I plug extension cords into the unit in order to get to my machine?
[outlet- sears unit- extension cord- computer]

And if I do this second setup, I will have to run at least 2 extension cords, correct?  The first will be running from the "power tool" or main receptacle, and the other from the "accessories" receptacle.

If I only run one of the "accessories" receptacles (as opposed to both and thus a third extension cord) can I plug in an outlet strip (into that extension cord which is plugged into the sears unit which is plugged into the wall) so that I can have all three "accessory" devices (monitor, marquee light, and speakers) plugged in?

Concern #1- This may be a valid concern. This switched power strip is not designed for sensitive electronic equipment. It does not have a surge supressor built in and I would recomend plugging it into one. I've been using them for 9 months now without issues. If your concerned about it return it and buy the $40 bitsmart since its designed for computers and includes surge suppression.

Concern #2- They say for wall mount only but thats up to you. I don't see it as a big deal. I've mounted a outlet box in the cab in the ones I've done and then run a cord from that to the wall. Then plug the sears strip into that. The sears strip only has 2 outlets. A typical cab requires 3 so you need to plug in a splitter or power strip to get the needed number of outlets. When you consider the cost of the extra cords and a splitter the $40 bit smart strip isn't looking so bad. I haven't bough a bit smart strip simply because Sears is almost on my way home from work and I'd have to order and wait for the bit smart strip.

So its up to you to make the decision. I'd recomend the bit smart strip as the safer easy way to go but I've only done the cheap and easy and gone with the Sears strip. I have extra cords and power strips and electrical outlets laying around so for me to build one it typically only costs me the $20 Sears strip. Of course the first computer or monitor I blow out would pay for a few of the bit smart strips....