One button to start them all....

[CCM]

I've seen plenty of posts on this subject and decided to use the smart strip from bits limited to power everything up when I turn on the pc.  

That's where the problem comes in.  I was going to put a plain arcade button on the top of my cabinet by extending the wires from the pc power button.  When I took the case apart of the older Dell Dimension XPS T600r, there is a small ribbon cable (looks like a skinny IDE cable) that connects the power and reset buttons to the motherboard.  Is it possible to still extend the wires to the button or am I out of luck?

[SpamMe]

You're probably fine, just a matter of figuring out which wires are which

[slicer_d]

Yeah just figure out which wires go to the power button and then just extend those I would suggest using solder or something and not just twisting them together.

Also the type of button matters I think using an arcade button should work but you will have to hold the button down for about 3 second then let it go.  You cant just click it real fast otherwise it wont start up.

[eightbit]

Yeah just figure out which wires go to the power button and then just extend those I would suggest using solder or something and not just twisting them together.

I don't know about your dell. But I've done this a couple of times. I simply located the 2 wires for the power button, then pulled that plug off the motherboard and pushed my extended wires into the female side of the plug and then plugged it back into the motherboard. So soldering, no cutting wires, never had a problem doing it this way.

Also the type of button matters I think using an arcade button should work but you will have to hold the button down for about 3 second then let it go.  You cant just click it real fast otherwise it wont start up.

I disagree with you, with most pc's a simple click of the button should turn it on. The button in the case is no different than a arcade button.

[TalkingOctopus]

All recent PC's that I know of use buttons that operate the same way as an arcade one.   I rigged up my computer's power button to a horizantal microswitch pushbutton without a problem.

Really old PC, like my pentium 90 used an on/off state switch, but I think those vanished quickly.

[eightbit]

Really old PC, like my pentium 90 used an on/off state switch, but I think those vanished quickly.

I wouldn't say vanished quickly they were around for longer than the newer style has been.

[EggZilla]

The typical, momentary pushbuttons will work just fine -- that's what I'm using. The only time you'll need a switch with a hard on/off switch is when you're using an old-fashioned AT case instead of an ATX, and if that's the situation, you're probably using an underpowered mobo and processor.

as far as the ribbon cable goes, that's probably something you can still do. It'll be tougher to figure out what goes where, but if you can find a diagram of the pin out somewhere online, you're home free.

One bit of advice: when you do hook in the exterior power button, I'd recommend splicing the original power button back in as well, and using quick connects to connect the longer wires to the exterior power button. That way, if you have to take the PC out to work on it at some time in the future, you won't have to remove the button from your cab and take it with you as well.

Good luck,

Eric

[TalkingOctopus]

Really old PC, like my pentium 90 used an on/off state switch, but I think those vanished quickly.

I wouldn't say vanished quickly they were around for longer than the newer style has been.

Well, it was not on my P-II 266... but you are right it is an assumption.

[NiN^_^NiN]

well my 266 will work with a arcade buttons as a power button i've tryed it.

It works with all ATX mb AT used an on/off switch

This is how i understand it and im sure im right.  

[Hammerbot]

If you BIOS supports a keyboar press startup (like my ABIT motherboard does) then you can use any of the buttons on the control panel to start it up.

Then again the kids/cat/neighbors/wife could also start it up whenever...

[eightbit]

If you BIOS supports a keyboar press startup (like my ABIT motherboard does) then you can use any of the buttons on the control panel to start it up.

Then again the kids/cat/neighbors/wife could also start it up whenever...

The problem with using any key to start is how to shut it down. With the newer Motherboards and OS's to shut it down you just push the power button. That then initiates a orderly shutdown, window closes your running programs and shuts down windows then turns off the power.

[ErikRuud]

I have a P233 pc that does have keyboard start from the space bar, but it does not work through the IPac.  I'm not sure why.

[CCM]

Thanks for all the replies!

Unfortunately the bios doesn't support startup on spacebar...  

Here's what I'm thinking of doing, I'm going to pull the ribbon cable from the motherboard completely.  Then I'm going to figure out (not sure how yet) which pin on the motherboard is the power and which is the ground.  I am going to use two female connectors salvaged from an old computer and attach those to the motherboard pins for the power and ground and run the wires to my push button.  

I realize that by doing this the power and reset buttons on the computer won't work, but all I have to do is plug in the ribbon cable again to get them to work.

Ok, now as far as figuring out which is power and ground on the motherboard, can I just use trial and error or could I screw up the motherboard by doing this? Say I connect the reset and led and push the button, will I blow something out or will the button simply not work?

[tmasman]

I'm assuming by "ribbon cable" you mean a small one (maybe 6 - 10 wires) going to the fron of the case...

If that's so, then simply take apart the fron of the case & see which wires (in the ribbon) are connected to the power button.  Then just trace that back to where it plugs into the MoBo & You're golden.

~ tmasman

[daeven]

MY Dell 400SC has a small circuit board at the power switch, which the ribbon cable is attached to.  I simply soldered wires to that circuit board where the power switch is attached and extended the wiring to an arcade button.

[papaschtroumpf]

Thanks for all the replies!

Unfortunately the bios doesn't support startup on spacebar...  

Here's what I'm thinking of doing, I'm going to pull the ribbon cable from the motherboard completely.  Then I'm going to figure out (not sure how yet) which pin on the motherboard is the power and which is the ground.  I am going to use two female connectors salvaged from an old computer and attach those to the motherboard pins for the power and ground and run the wires to my push button.  

I realize that by doing this the power and reset buttons on the computer won't work, but all I have to do is plug in the ribbon cable again to get them to work.

Ok, now as far as figuring out which is power and ground on the motherboard, can I just use trial and error or could I screw up the motherboard by doing this? Say I connect the reset and led and push the button, will I blow something out or will the button simply not work?

I assume you mean you're going to connect where the ribbon cable used to be?
What else is connected to the ribbon cable on the switch side? If it's more switches, then no problems, shorting the pins together (with a switch) should either have no effect or react as one of the buttons connected to it.
If there are LEDs connected to the board however, some of the wires probably carry currebt for the LEDs, shorting those could damage your mobo, even if you short them for a short time.
Did you look at the motherboard itself, are the pins labelled in any way? I'm not sure how DEL specific you motherboard is, so you may want to look for that info using Google. (start by searching on the motherboard name if there is one, otherwise search by computer model). that's the problem with those DEL special OEM boards, info is not readily available.

If not I'd use a ohmmeter or a hacked up flash light to figure out what wire ges where while they are unplugged from the mobo.

[CCM]

I assume you mean you're going to connect where the ribbon cable used to be?
What else is connected to the ribbon cable on the switch side? If it's more switches, then no problems, shorting the pins together (with a switch) should either have no effect or react as one of the buttons connected to it.
If there are LEDs connected to the board however, some of the wires probably carry currebt for the LEDs, shorting those could damage your mobo, even if you short them for a short time.
Did you look at the motherboard itself, are the pins labelled in any way? I'm not sure how DEL specific you motherboard is, so you may want to look for that info using Google. (start by searching on the motherboard name if there is one, otherwise search by computer model). that's the problem with those DEL special OEM boards, info is not readily available.

If not I'd use a ohmmeter or a hacked up flash light to figure out what wire ges where while they are unplugged from the mobo.

Yep... I'm going to connect my wires to where the ribbon cable used to be.  On the other end of the ribbon cable are 2 buttons (power and reset) and 2 led's, one for each button.  I don't remember seeing any labels on the motherboard at all.  I'll take another look when I get home from work.

[soslo]

Wow...seems like you guys are making this (potentially) unnecessarily complex. My first cab was a single switch:

I put an inline switch to the 6 outlet power strip. Everything was plugged into that (monitor, computer, speakers, 2 lights).

In the BIOS of the computer, under the power properties, I set to computer to turn-on after power restore (something like that).

I left the monitor switched on, and everything else, and when I flipped the switch, power to the strip was then sent and everything turned on, even the computer. Since the power strip was actually losing power when the main switch was off, the computer thinks there has been a power failure or that it has been unplugged, and promptly turns itself on.

I hope that makes sense. If this doesn't apply to your computer (non-ATX), then please accept my apologies and resume your discussion  

[eightbit]

Wow...seems like you guys are making this (potentially) unnecessarily complex. My first cab was a single switch:

I put an inline switch to the 6 outlet power strip. Everything was plugged into that (monitor, computer, speakers, 2 lights).

In the BIOS of the computer, under the power properties, I set to computer to turn-on after power restore (something like that).

I left the monitor switched on, and everything else, and when I flipped the switch, power to the strip was then sent and everything turned on, even the computer. Since the power strip was actually losing power when the main switch was off, the computer thinks there has been a power failure or that it has been unplugged, and promptly turns itself on.

I hope that makes sense. If this doesn't apply to your computer (non-ATX), then please accept my apologies and resume your discussion  

This feature is not in all bios's. Its also not good to shut down windows by cutting the power. By using the pc power button you can get a orderly shutdown and with the smart strips you can control everything on and off with that one button.

[soslo]

Sorry, should have specified - I shut down windows before powering off the cab...most front ends have a feature like "Exit and Shut Down"

Just select that and a few seconds later you hit the switch.

[eightbit]

Sorry, should have specified - I shut down windows before powering off the cab...most front ends have a feature like "Exit and Shut Down"

Just select that and a few seconds later you hit the switch.

But thats not the one button to do it all and your bios has to support the power on after power loss feature. Its like the spacebar to turn it on feature, its nice but a lot of people don't have those features.

What we've been discussing is a solution that should work for most people with most configurations.

[soslo]

[quote But thats not the one button to do it all

technically it is only one button...but I see your point. You don't want to have to select the shut down menu item in the front end...I see know.

and your bios has to support the power on after power loss feature.

Don't most (all?) ATX motherboards support this?

What we've been discussing is a solution that should work for most people with most configurations.

Thats cool - I am sure there is a better solution out there...but I'm also sure it will be more complex and include relays and such. I am definately not trying to stifle the creative process - just offer a (to me) easy alternative for those with the MB feature.

Please keep going - I'm sure I'll use the "one button to rule them all, and in the darkness power them" solution when it gets nailed down and layed out.  

[eightbit]

[quote But thats not the one button to do it all

technically it is only one button...but I see your point. You don't want to have to select the shut down menu item in the front end...I see know.

and your bios has to support the power on after power loss feature.

Don't most (all?) ATX motherboards support this?

What we've been discussing is a solution that should work for most people with most configurations.

Thats cool - I am sure there is a better solution out there...but I'm also sure it will be more complex and include relays and such. I am definately not trying to stifle the creative process - just offer a (to me) easy alternative for those with the MB feature.

Please keep going - I'm sure I'll use the "one button to rule them all, and in the darkness power them" solution when it gets nailed down and layed out.  

To be fair mamewah has the option to shut down windows when you exit the front end(other front ends might also have this feature). This requires that your front end support this feature and you have to have a button programmed to exit the front end. Then you have to have a motherboard that supports resume after power loss. Then you have to either be able to reach your power strip or have a power strip with a remote switch. If you have these features then your method is pretty good but it is not a single button press on and off.

The method I'm advocating that we have been discussing requires that you buy a autosensing power strip(only $20 at Sears). It doesn't require relays or hacking power strips. Then you have to extend the button from your pc to a remote button. The advantage to this method is that it will work with most all pc's and front ends plus its a true single button solution. Most people that have gotten this far with their cab can extend their power button.

The biggest advantage to my method is that any one can turn the cab on and off when I'm not their.

[soslo]

Ahh, gotcha - that does seem like a much more elegant solution.

So basically, all I need to do is get this power strip and relocated my power button? If that is the case, I will retrofit both of the cabs I am working on right now!

[eightbit]

Test your os, when you push the power button while in your front end does it close your front end and then shut down windows in an orderly manner and power off the cpu. If that works then all you need is the power strip. If your pc power button is easily reached you don't even need to relocate the button but my personal preference is to put an arcade button on top of the cab for this.

[barfybuffet]

http://www.taconuts.org/articles/2000/dec/21/page1.php

this article details how to cheaply make your own start button using nothing more than a momentary switch, some wire, and 2 jumpers.

i plan to do the same but i will probably rip the tail/connector off of a spare power switch and extend the wires to fit my needs.

in the future.... dont buy dell!
build your own. you wont have crappy proprietary all-in-one motherboard connectors and you will know exactly which pins are for your power.

[soslo]

eightbit - I tried just pressing the power button to shut everything down and it worked - amazing, I never tried that!

Which power supply d I need to get at sears?

[eightbit]

The bit smart strips are a lot nicer. They have surge suppression built in and are designed for use with computers. There new model even has adjustable sensitivity. The Sears ones are designed for use with power tools, I don't know what the implications of that are. I never used a bit smart one. I was all ready to place my order when I located the Sears one. I made a quest to locate one of these when power strip relay hacks were popular. The only ones I could locate were no longer made. The bit smart one was brand new at the time. Another nice feature of the bit smart was is there is more than enough outlets for a typical cab. The Sears one doesn't have enough outlets. If you want the Sears one I stole the following from an old thread.

I got a PM the other day regarding some of the 1 button power up commercial solutions out there and noticed that eightbit's original post about the Sears one was incomplete because the pic is missing due to his host not being up ...

Anyways... I went out and snagged one:


It's part #924031  (you can look it up on Sears.com if you like -- they have a goofy session info encoded in their urls so copy pasting seems like a bad idea) It's a craftsman Automatic Power Switch - "auto switch".   I picked mine up at a dedicated sears hardware store (although have seen 'em in regular sears).  It's on a peg near the circular saw blades n' stuff  (not in electrical sections go figure)  it was $19.99 ... it plugs right into the outlet so you may or may not want to get a 6 foot extension cord  depending on how anal you are about only having 1 cord exit your cabinet.

*Shrug* I plugged it in... plugged my PC power supply cord into the "main" ... plugged my surge suppressor into the accessories... flipped the mode switch.  and then I hit the momentary contact switch that turns on my PC and Voila! It came to life...  

[soslo]

I just ordered 4 of the Bit Smart Strips for $112 including shipping:
http://www.bitsltd.net/smartstrip/information.htm

Apparently they give a little dicount ($2 off each one) if you buy in bulk...

[ts]

I assume you mean you're going to connect where the ribbon cable used to be?
What else is connected to the ribbon cable on the switch side? If it's more switches, then no problems, shorting the pins together (with a switch) should either have no effect or react as one of the buttons connected to it.
If there are LEDs connected to the board however, some of the wires probably carry currebt for the LEDs, shorting those could damage your mobo, even if you short them for a short time.
Did you look at the motherboard itself, are the pins labelled in any way? I'm not sure how DEL specific you motherboard is, so you may want to look for that info using Google. (start by searching on the motherboard name if there is one, otherwise search by computer model). that's the problem with those DEL special OEM boards, info is not readily available.

If not I'd use a ohmmeter or a hacked up flash light to figure out what wire ges where while they are unplugged from the mobo.

Yep... I'm going to connect my wires to where the ribbon cable used to be.  On the other end of the ribbon cable are 2 buttons (power and reset) and 2 led's, one for each button.  I don't remember seeing any labels on the motherboard at all.  I'll take another look when I get home from work.

DId you ever figure out what wires to extend to your external pushbutton.  I also have this ribbon configuration from the motherboard to the outer control panel board with 2 buttons and 2 leds.  Im still wondering how to "wire" into this to extend to an outer power button.  It looks like on the circuit board there are 4 soldered contact area.  Was wondering if I could solder my wires to these although, how to know which contact area is hot and which is ground I am not sure.  There are four "solder points" total but which two are hot and which two are ground, I do not know.

It appears to attach to the motherboard with a series of pins and I see no info on the board labelin the jumpers as poer, led,reset, led, etc.?

ANyone have any ideas on this.  Couldn't find much on Google....

[papaschtroumpf]

Here is what I would do:

use a continuity tester of some kind (cheap at home improvement stores, radio shack or simply use a hacked flashlights).

unplug the cable either from the motherboard or from the header, depending which side is easiest to work with. This way you won't damage the motherboard.

Now set your continuity tester to two of the four pins. if it shows some kind of continuity you're either accross the LED or on two common pins, either way that's not what you want, so pick another pair of pins.
If the continuity tester show no continuity, try to press the start button on the fron of your computer, if the tester shows continuity you have now identified the two pins that are connected to the button. release the button and continuity should go off again.

Hope this makes sense...

[soslo]

I got the smartstrips...but they seem to activate the switch plugs at random...sometimes they wont turn off when I turn the main item (computer) off - sometimes it will. I've messed with the sensitivty dial...but no luck. Any ideas?

[ts]

well now I am not sure.

I was all set to order a smart strip and then I hear what soslo mentions. so my question is thiis...  Are the smartstrips for sale on their website the working versions now or are they the same first generation ones that had all the problems?

Anyone else ordered from them lately?

[eightbit]

I got the smartstrips...but they seem to activate the switch plugs at random...sometimes they wont turn off when I turn the main item (computer) off - sometimes it will. I've messed with the sensitivty dial...but no luck. Any ideas?

Did you order more than one strip? Do they all have this problem? Have you tried a different coomputer?

[soslo]

I ordered 4 strips. The power comes on and off at random. Last night the strip was off. This morning when I get up - viola, activated and the monitor is on while the computer is off. Its like that - off and on all day...but usually hours in between each cycle.

Well, that seems like a waste of $112. Looks like I'll got back to my old method with the $3 radio shack switch.

[eightbit]

They definately shouldn't do that, you should call the company. I've never heard of anyone that had problems with them not get them resolved.

The relay hack costs more than just a $3 relay to pull it off.

[JustMichael]

soslo, I would suggest turning the sensitivity dial even further.  I had to turn mine like a full turn and some before it shut off the other devices properly.

[soslo]

I've tried the sensitivity dial...it turns about 3/4 of a full turn in total...so like 3/8ths in either direction from the middle (default) setting.

I'll mess with it again...I'm just totally bummed out that it comes on randomly...it works great for a couple of hours, then it'll just decide to leave everything turned on.

[ts]

anyone else have any feedback.  I am tempted to go ahead an order one of the smartstrips and see what happens...

[soslo]

I turned the strip sensitivity all the way down last night. Turned the computer on, then back off. Nothing else would shut down (power was still going to the switched outlets).

Go out this morning and everything is off.
[sigh]

[Hammerbot]

Throw it in the trash. (or sell it on e-bay to another sucker.)

Go by a 12 volt relay and wire a power strip to it.

The relay's only sensitivity is to being smashed with a hammer if you miss when trying to hit the Smart strip.

Fool proof, even for me.

[JustMichael]

Soslo, do you happen to have a monitor plugged into the back of the pc?  I have seen some people's setup like that.  Then when the power supply is on so is the monitor.  If yours is like this I would suggest plugging the monitor into the smart strip instead of into the computer (might need a new cord for this).  Also which version of the powerstrip is it?  I am using the LCG2 and it works just fine (after adjusting).  Have you tried emailing the company?

[soslo]

JustMichael, no, I don't have the monitor plugged into the computer...

I have the LGC1..four of them actually.

I'll contact the place today...I already tossed the boxes for two of them because I thought they were working. I didn't realize at the time that they'd only work for about half the day.

Hammerbot, I might just do the relay thing. It burns me that I dumped $112 into these things.

[mnapuran]

Check this out as a nice option.... http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=13505

-Mike N

[soslo]

Mike, let us know when you get that new product going...

[mnapuran]

Mike, let us know when you get that new product going...

Here is the first production unit...



We should have some units in stock to possibly start offering in January.

The timers are settable in 1/2 second increments, on both a startup delay, and a latching delay.... and can latch up to 4 separate devices, with up to an 8amp load per unit!  

Obviouslly... you wont need an 8amp load to switch on the PC power supply or switch on a TV used for your MAME cab, but it's a nice option!  And yes, it does handle both AC and DC switching loads.

-Mike

[soslo]

JustMichael, no, I don't have the monitor plugged into the computer...

I have the LGC1..four of them actually.

I'll contact the place today...I already tossed the boxes for two of them because I thought they were working. I didn't realize at the time that they'd only work for about half the day.

Hammerbot, I might just do the relay thing. It burns me that I dumped $112 into these things.

Update: It appears that these things don't work for the first day or two, then start working normally...totally weird, I know.

All of them give me fits for the first day (even messing with the sensitivity doesn't matter) - then the next day or so they seem to work.

[hulkster]

"One button to start them all.....one button to find them, one button to rule them all, and in the mameness bind them"

sorry had to throw in the old nerd reference.  (insert conan obrien nerd impression here)

[rtb1982]

Everyone is talking about a solution that requires you to have a computer monitor if im not mistaken.  How do you get a TV to turn on and off each time you push the power button on your CPU?

[rampy]

Everyone is talking about a solution that requires you to have a computer monitor if im not mistaken.  How do you get a TV to turn on and off each time you push the power button on your CPU?

You can do it with a TV... but you need to have a TV that powers up after power failure... (Something you should look for when purchasing a TV for MAME cabinet use... also check for one that remembers which input it was using after power failure...else you'll need to keep the damn remote handy for the TV...not very arcade like at all!) .... Seveal BYOACers have gotten funny looks at best buy and circuit city putting tv's on svideo and unplugging them and pluggin them back in (check the monitor forum for threads about TV's with this "feature")

*Shrug*  Also note there is a work around for some cheapo TV's (the ones that require remote to turn on after power failure)...it's called the paper clip trick (warning ... your mileage may vary... not my fault if you eff up your TV) You use a paperclip or othe item to wedge the front power button on the TV in the depressed state (obviously only works on certain tv's and specific type of power pushbutton) .

good luck!

rampy

PS I still love my 20 beans Sears Auto switch thingie...  cast your  relays into mount doom =P

[eightbit]

PS I still love my 20 beans Sears Auto switch thingie...  cast your  relays into mount doom =P

I've done 4 with the sears auto switcher and I haven't had one not work.

[Serpent]

I have a very simple solution. I'm using a PC with ArcadeVGA pluged into a SCART TV. I have everything connected to a normal power strip. When I push the I/O button on the power strip, everthing turns on and I have display on my TV. I've got this setting up a few things. First, you have to enter your computer bios and look for an option under the power up section which refers to power up on AC loss (or something alike) which results in your CPU automatically switching on as soon as it receives power (no need to push the PC case button). Secondly, you have to leave your speakers and TV on (of course they're off when the power strip button is set to O. Now, the way to automatically have display on the TV is simple. You have to modify your ArcadeVGA to SCART cable and get 12v to pin number 8 on the scart connector (you can have power from a free HD connector from your PC). This way, when you push the powerstrip button and the computer turns on, the TV automatically selects SCART and you have display. The only dissadvantage of this method to start it all with one button is that when you turn off your computer from windows, you have to remember to push again the power strip button to turn off everything else.

[1UP]

Throw it in the trash. (or sell it on e-bay to another sucker.)

Go by a 12 volt relay and wire a power strip to it.

The relay's only sensitivity is to being smashed with a hammer if you miss when trying to hit the Smart strip.

Fool proof, even for me.

Throw your RELAYS in the trash!  They will end up trashing your computer.  I was so proud of my relay/powerstrip hack until I noticed problems with my computer.  It would start hanging and crashing whenever the video card would use a lot of cycles.  I suspect the power supply was damaged over time by the relay back-current, as I stupidly did not include a diode in my setup.  I ended up having to throw out the PC AND the hacked strip!  The problems never happened before I started using the hack, so I'm pretty sure it was to blame.

I recently switched over to a Bits Ltd Smartstrip when I got my new PC, and it gave me problems at first, but I contacted the company and they sent me out a pre-production version of the newer adjustable strip as a replacement.

I spent a few minutes playing with sensitivity, as at first, it wouldn't power up with the PC.  Set the sensitivity higher, and it was leaving the marquee light on for a few seconds after PC power-down.  Set it somewhere in the middle, and no problems whatsoever!  Push the remote power button on top of the cab, and everything powers right up!  Push again when I'm done, WinXP closes all apps and exits gracefully, powering down the whole cab.

I have never tried the Sears one, but I would definitely recommend some kind of power-sensing strip.  Never again will I trust the switching of 120V to home-brewed circuitry...  

[mushmouth]

Does Windows 98SE have the ability to do an orderly shutdown like that? I've been wondering how I'm going to pull this off with my Pentium3 450 running 98SE...

[JustMichael]

I run Win98SE and I don't have it shutdown at all.  I tell people to exit back to the menu if they want their scores saved before powering off the cab.  I have setup windows not to automatically run scandisk.  I haven't had a single problem with it setup this way.

[1UP]

I think Win98 might be able to do an unattended shutdown, as long as your motherboard supports it.  Try setting your BIOS to enable ACPI.  In Windows, go into your display settings, go to Screen Saver, click Power at the bottom, and see if there are any options for advanced power management, or there may be settings for what to do when you push the power/sleep button, etc.

If none of this stuff is available, and all you get when you click "Shut Down" is a screen that says "It is now safe to turn off your computer" then your system hardware probably just doesn't support it.

Might just be time to step up to a newer system... pricewatch, baby...  AthlonXP 1900 + mobo + case = $100  You'll be glad you did!  

[PacManFan]

I don't know whta ll the hubub is about, but I have to throw my .02$ in as well, It seems to me, the easiest solution is to use a relay. I just built on the other day for my Space Dual Cabinet, and it couldn't have been simpler, or working any better.

I modified a wall socket and mounted into a metal electrical box with a relay. One side of the socket is wired as normal with 120VAC. That powers the computer. The other side of the socket is connected with the relay to the 120VAC, and triggered by 12vdc from the computer power supply. I have a normal power strip plugged into that with the monitor,marquee light, and speakers.

One touch to the computer power button, and the monitor, speakers, computer, and marquee all come on.
One more touch, and the computer shuts down and everything turns off.

If someone is relly dieing for it, I can post the schematic and pictures.

Total cost, about  ~4$

-PMF

[eightbit]

I don't know whta ll the hubub is about, but I have to throw my .02$ in as well, It seems to me, the easiest solution is to use a relay. I just built on the other day for my Space Dual Cabinet, and it couldn't have been simpler, or working any better.

I modified a wall socket and mounted into a metal electrical box with a relay. One side of the socket is wired as normal with 120VAC. That powers the computer. The other side of the socket is connected with the relay to the 120VAC, and triggered by 12vdc from the computer power supply. I have a normal power strip plugged into that with the monitor,marquee light, and speakers.

One touch to the computer power button, and the monitor, speakers, computer, and marquee all come on.
One more touch, and the computer shuts down and everything turns off.

The easiest solution is to use the $20 Sears current sensing strip or the more expensive bitsmart strip. I can do the Sears strip without tools, I don't know how you could make it easier than that. The cheapest solution is what you propose. I've done 4 different computers with the sears strip and have not had ANY issues.

[Popcorrin]

Total cost $4?  Where did you buy your relay?  I got mine at Radio Shack for $8.  Prdct# 275-218.

[slycrel]

  The auto-poweroff in windows seems to be 100% tied to your motherboard.  If your mobo supports advanced power management stuff, and generally any ATX mobo will, you should be fine.  If you see the "waiting to shutdown" screen when shutting down windows then it probably won't work.  The easiest test is to try it out.  That's how I first learned that you could do that -- my 1 year old daughter pressed the power button and all of a sudden XP started shutting down my programs and turned itself off.  

[markjen1]

The easiest solution is to use the $20 Sears current sensing strip or the more expensive bitsmart strip. I can do the Sears strip without tools, I don't know how you could make it easier than that. The cheapest solution is what you propose. I've done 4 different computers with the sears strip and have not had ANY issues.

I have some questions about using the Sears Power Switch...

I just picked mine up yesterday.

Concern #1: The package says, "Use only for stationary power tools and their accessories; voltage fluctuations may damage other electrical equipment".  Is this something to be concerned about?  Has anybody experienced any problems as a result of using one of these?


Concern #2:  It says that this device is for use with wall recepticles only.  Does this mean I can not plug it into an extension cord?
[wall outlet- Extension cord- Sears unit- computer]

If so, can I plug extension cords into the unit in order to get to my machine?
[outlet- sears unit- extension cord- computer]

And if I do this second setup, I will have to run at least 2 extension cords, correct?  The first will be running from the "power tool" or main receptacle, and the other from the "accessories" receptacle.

If I only run one of the "accessories" receptacles (as opposed to both and thus a third extension cord) can I plug in an outlet strip (into that extension cord which is plugged into the sears unit which is plugged into the wall) so that I can have all three "accessory" devices (monitor, marquee light, and speakers) plugged in?

Thanks in advance for any replies...

Mark.

[eightbit]

I have some questions about using the Sears Power Switch...

I just picked mine up yesterday.

Concern #1: The package says, "Use only for stationary power tools and their accessories; voltage fluctuations may damage other electrical equipment".  Is this something to be concerned about?  Has anybody experienced any problems as a result of using one of these?


Concern #2:  It says that this device is for use with wall recepticles only.  Does this mean I can not plug it into an extension cord?
[wall outlet- Extension cord- Sears unit- computer]

If so, can I plug extension cords into the unit in order to get to my machine?
[outlet- sears unit- extension cord- computer]

And if I do this second setup, I will have to run at least 2 extension cords, correct?  The first will be running from the "power tool" or main receptacle, and the other from the "accessories" receptacle.

If I only run one of the "accessories" receptacles (as opposed to both and thus a third extension cord) can I plug in an outlet strip (into that extension cord which is plugged into the sears unit which is plugged into the wall) so that I can have all three "accessory" devices (monitor, marquee light, and speakers) plugged in?

Concern #1- This may be a valid concern. This switched power strip is not designed for sensitive electronic equipment. It does not have a surge supressor built in and I would recomend plugging it into one. I've been using them for 9 months now without issues. If your concerned about it return it and buy the $40 bitsmart since its designed for computers and includes surge suppression.

Concern #2- They say for wall mount only but thats up to you. I don't see it as a big deal. I've mounted a outlet box in the cab in the ones I've done and then run a cord from that to the wall. Then plug the sears strip into that. The sears strip only has 2 outlets. A typical cab requires 3 so you need to plug in a splitter or power strip to get the needed number of outlets. When you consider the cost of the extra cords and a splitter the $40 bit smart strip isn't looking so bad. I haven't bough a bit smart strip simply because Sears is almost on my way home from work and I'd have to order and wait for the bit smart strip.

So its up to you to make the decision. I'd recomend the bit smart strip as the safer easy way to go but I've only done the cheap and easy and gone with the Sears strip. I have extra cords and power strips and electrical outlets laying around so for me to build one it typically only costs me the $20 Sears strip. Of course the first computer or monitor I blow out would pay for a few of the bit smart strips....