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Author Topic: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread  (Read 11525 times)

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notbillcosby

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Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« on: December 15, 2012, 11:29:13 pm »
So, it's been almost a year since I realized I love Ms. Pac-Man.

Growing up, I played TMNT and the Simpsons all the time in the two small local arcades that we had back then, along with various pizza places around town. After all, you were making a poor business move if you were a pizza place in the early 90s without a TMNT machine. Seriously- think about it! Eventually, all the arcades closed, Chuck'e'Cheeses got rid of their Turtles and Simpsons machines, other pizza places closed or changed out their machines for pinball or hunting games, and I resorted to emulators and my old 8 and 16 bit systems to keep my childhood memories fresh. Over the last 10 years I had thought on and off about buying a TMNT machine, until prices got high enough on them that I stopped thinking about it quite as hard. A couple years ago, a close friend snagged a Konami Alien's machine that rekindled my love with arcade machines, and I spent a few days scraping the surface of the DIY arcade community until I decided it was just too costly to justify building a cabinet.

A little over a year ago, I met a new friend who had a deep love for Pac and Ms. Pac-Man that I didn't fully understand. Around that time I had rekindled my love for Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3, and was fighting hard to find an Xbox controller that felt more like the controllers I used growing up. Also around that time, Fox aired an episode of Bob's Burgers titled "Burger Boss," about a fictional game that Bob had loved when he was younger and now had in his restaurant. They actually animated the game with 8-bit graphics and it looked like a lot of fun... The combination of all of this prompted me to drop a quarter in a Ms. Pac-Man machine at a bar in Chicago that I was visiting with my band before we took the stage. I had a ton of fun and played several more games; It was a machine with the speedup hack, and I did considerably better than I was expecting to do since I had never played the fast version of the game before. I thought about this for the next several days, until I started looking for a Pac-Man Plug and Play. I bought several, all of them leaving something to be desired. I started digging for an arcade stick controller for the original Xbox (mine is modded and loaded with emulators, of course. And Pac-Man can't be played with a D-pad, dammit.) until I decided the only logical way to go was an X-Arcade. I bought one.

I don't remember how long it was after getting the X-Arcade that I decided I needed to build a whole cabinet, but I'd put it in the 1-2 month range. I initially thought about building a bartop that could later be converted into a full size cabinet, and after that decided that an Aussie lowboy cabinet would be non-imposing enough to go ahead and just put in my basement. I posted a Craigslist add to see if anyone had a cabinet for sale, and not an hour later I got a reply. It was a huge imposing Stern cabinet that started its life with a Scramble game in it that was later converted to Roc'n'Rope. He was only asking $40, it came with the coin door and mechanism, marquee light, original glass and marquee, and the original CP minus the joystick- But with 4 leaf buttons! It was a tilt-back screen but not a particularly small format machine... But the price was too good to be true, so in early June (it's December now, for anyone who's reading this way after the fact) we took the seats out of a friend's minivan and drove out to pick it up. Man oh man was it hot that day. We slide it on its back down the stairs into the basement with zero regard for how incredibly difficult it's going to be to get this out of here in 4 months when my girlfriend and I move. Yuck. Anyway: Here's what it looked like when I got it.












I had a rack mountable computer that was originally a server that was given to me for free some time ago that never had a use until this project started.
In pretty short order, I figured out what I needed out of a TV. Thanks to a tremendous amount of help from member rCadeGaming I learned why I should do things the right way video-wise and bought a transcoder, a video card that worked with the limited expandability of my rack mount computer, and a great Sony CRT TV that would allow things to be displayed at the correct resolutions. I spent months working on it, but finally got my video to a point where I was happy. Huge huge huge thanks again and again to rCadeGaming!

In the meantime I had taken care of a few little things on my cabinet. I had a powered studio monitor speaker given to me for free a few years ago because it had an incessant buzz. I was about ready to throw it out when I did a little more research and found out $8 worth of capacitors would fix this buzz. I did it, and now I have a monophonic speaker system. I took the speaker out of the enclosure and mounted it where the speaker was originally on this machine, and attached the enclosure (which also has the amplifier portion) to the inside of my machine's cabinet. There's a potentiometer on the back of the enclosure to control the volume, which I relocated to the end of some wires with the intention of eventually mounting this to the machine somewhere so I have quick access to a volume control while playing.

I also decided to wire up some new lights to the "Quarter" signs on the coin door. I got a 3-LED tap light from the dollar store that I opened up and hacked apart, and mounted the LEDs in some plastic Coke bottle tops with a lot of hot glue. Still running off batteries, I wired the on-off switch to be activated when I flipped on the master switch for my cabinet.




This proved an extremely flimsy design and the tap light has since broken just from being moved around, so this idea has been nixed, but will be re-implemented in a smarter way. I think I'm gonna grab a string of those LED christmas lights when they're on clearance in a few weeks; they're as bright as the sun, are already wired into AC power, and would also be an alright way to light the inside of my cabinet along with my QUARTER signs. It'd be nice to be able to see if I had to poke around inside to fix something, and having lights going in there would let me keep both hands free to work instead of having to hold a flash light!

I also spent some time trying out a few different CP layouts, using a pizza box as an easy place to test-mount stuff. My plan for this machine was/is to have interchangeable control panels, so I don't have to try to squeeze EVERYTHING into one CP. I can have a perfect 4-way stick for my new Ms. Pac-Man obsession and other good old stuff, a two player 8-way panel for my beloved Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3, TMNT, and everything else that needs a full range of motion and 2 simultaneous players, a track ball and spinner panel, etc. I tried a handful of 4-way sticks that I wasn't happy with, and finally got Leaf Pro stick, made by GGG, and sold barely-used in the buy and sell forum here by another member. I quickly decided to use the Leaf Pro'd restrictor plate as a template for a sturdier one that I made out of a large washer.





This still isn't the end-all stick for me, I need a harder 4-way feel than this is able to provide, but it's a nice stick and will suit me well until I find THE perfect stick.


I also re-painted the cab. That STERN logo is ugly and crappy looking, so I figured I couldn't make it any worse! I thought for quite a while about what to paint the cabinet like; I didn't want it to say Multicade or something similar that would immediately acknowledge that its an emulator machine. I also didn't want to decorate the cabinet as if it were a singular game... It didn't feel right to have a Pac Man cabinet playing Mortal Kombat or something. Upon the suggestion of a friend, I decided to pay homage to the fictional BurgerBoss and paint the cabinet with the graphics from the cartoon!



I got a bajillion screen shots taken and will be making a slightly better-looking marquee graphic for it, while my artist girlfriend paints the picture on the side. The colors of that cartoon cabinet are awful so it won't be exactly the same, but the big graphic on the side will be there. I painted the sides blue for now. They will either remain blue with the circle graphic in the middle, or I've considered expanding that graphic to live outside of just a circle so that the sky and ground extend to the entire side of the cabinet. I'm waiting to paint graphics until all the construction is done.

After finally getting my graphics issues worked out, it was time to put the TV in the cabinet. I didn't want to mount the tube to a frame, so that it was easier to take out and move in the future. Remember how I said I'm moving in a few months? I'd love to be able to just lift the TV out to move the cabinet more easily, and having it in its case still would make it exponentially easier to just sit down in a moving truck. The set had speakers on the side of the screen, and I needed to remove them and cut the sides off in order to make this 24" screen fit in this cabinet. Here's how the TV started out:




I took the tube out and disconnected the speakers, and after much thought and creative measuring I cut the sides of the case off.












I spray painted the front black before putting it back together. There will still be a bezel covering the plastic casing of the TV, but I figured this couldn't hurt as long as I already had everything torn up.




Here's the computer hanging out in the bottom of the cabinet with my interface and other various computer guts. I'm just using 1 interface and having the CPs connect via a 25-pin printer cable. The Player 1 and 2 start buttons will be mounted to the cabinet so I don't need to include them on every CP. The coin door will be hooked up and functioning. No free play man! I'll provide the quarters, I just really feel like dropping that coin in the slot is an essential part to the arcade experience.


Underside of my 4-way panel:


Topside:


I plan on wrapping the CPs with a pretty generic black wrap. I'd love it to feel just like the top of the X-Arcade, that's perfect for me. I need to find a material that is rigid enough to cover the T-Nuts and make that area feel smooth while still being flexible enough to wrap around the curved front of the panel. I started a thread about this really prematurely several months back that I figure I'll re-open after I'm a little further along.

The beginnings of my UMK3 panel:


Wowie Zowie, it works!


I took a night off from working on it last night to play games for a few hours. It feels great! Now to get back to work... I'll finally be keeping people updated via this thread. I know how much I love reading about other people's projects, I felt like it would be wrong of me if I didn't share my progress with all the people who've helped me along the way and who appreciate all of this as much as I do! Thanks to everyone, and stay tuned...
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

yotsuya

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2012, 11:51:45 pm »
Love the mod you did to the stick!

Oh, and HAMM'S!  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Jumpman64

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2012, 12:08:18 am »
Love the concept & eagerly look forward to seeing it completed :-)

Nephasth

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2012, 12:23:29 am »
Interested in selling the Roc N Rope stuff? Did it come with a pcb?

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2012, 10:49:41 am »
I have none of the guts from Roc n Rope, unfortunately.

These picture all looked right side up on my computer, and about half are upside down on my iPod. They displaying alright for everyone else?
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

harveybirdman

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2012, 12:59:50 pm »
nbc >> It looks like you are using the RCA VHDC300, which is about 40-60 dollars cheaper than then Audio Authority 9A60A that I've been planning on buying.

I'm interested in the months you spent perfecting the video and any regrets, do overs, or concerns you might have regarding the RCA VHDC300 and/or soft 15khz.

yotsuya

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2012, 01:04:33 pm »
A lot of them are upside down on my iPad.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

chopperthedog

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2012, 01:08:57 pm »
All good on android :P


good day.

CoryBee

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2012, 01:31:18 pm »
Damn that ketchup bottle!

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2012, 01:51:15 pm »
Harvey: Good eye! Yes, that's what I used. Got it for $10 after shipping on Ebay. I have some issues when it comes to adjusting screen geometry in Powerstrip when I'm running a progressive scan resolution- anything I adjust makes it FREAK OUT. I don't know if this is the video card, the transcoder, or the TV. I have no point of reference, so I'm not sure what to blame... I ended up putting windows in 320x240, using my TV's service menu to adjust the geometry to look as close to perfect as I could, and then did my best to use Powerstrip to adjust any interlaced resolutions to exist nicely within my TV's settings. After taking the tube out of the tv and jostling it all over the place getting it into the cabinet, my geometry has shifted. Previously, any vertical games cut off the top and bottom a little. Now it cuts off the top a lot and the bottom little to none at all, and things are slightly tilted on one side of the screen. It's gotten better with time and I feel confident that the service menu will get things back to where they need to be, but I don't want to screw with it until I've jiggled my cab back into the corner that it'll be living in once I'm done working on it. It certainly looks good enough right now to do some game testing with my CPs and stuff, and I've got my fingers crossed that somehow magically i'll be able to dial things in even closer this time :)
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2012, 02:33:21 pm »
This is awesome.  That cab needs some lovin, but it looks like a perfect set of bones for what you're going for.  You're a lot further along than me on the physical build side.  I have my portable controllers to play with for now though.

I have a sweet spot for Ms. Pac-Man and TMNT too.

Thanks to a tremendous amount of help from member rCadeGaming I learned why I should do things the right way video-wise and bought a transcoder, a video card that worked with the limited expandability of my rack mount computer, and a great Sony CRT TV that would allow things to be displayed at the correct resolutions. I spent months working on it, but finally got my video to a point where I was happy. Huge huge huge thanks again and again to rCadeGaming!

Thanks for the shoutout!

I had a powered studio monitor speaker given to me for free a few years ago because it had an incessant buzz. I was about ready to throw it out when I did a little more research and found out $8 worth of capacitors would fix this buzz. I did it, and now I have a monophonic speaker system.

Damn, lucky.  What size is the cone, what brand/model?

I took the speaker out of the enclosure and mounted it where the speaker was originally on this machine, and attached the enclosure (which also has the amplifier portion) to the inside of my machine's cabinet.

You mean you put the original enclosure from the speaker inside the cab behind the cone?  That will do a ton to help retain the acoustic quality the speaker originally had.

It sounds like your cab will have some of the best sound you can get out of a cab.  Sure it could be stereo, but it sounds like some of the games you'll be playing will be mono anyway.

There's a potentiometer on the back of the enclosure to control the volume, which I relocated to the end of some wires with the intention of eventually mounting this to the machine somewhere so I have quick access to a volume control while playing.

Nice, I'm planning this too.

It'd be nice to be able to see if I had to poke around inside to fix something, and having lights going in there would let me keep both hands free to work instead of having to hold a flash light!

Service lighting inside the cabinet.  I  hadn't thought of that.  I might have to steal that one.

I also spent some time trying out a few different CP layouts, using a pizza box as an easy place to test-mount stuff. My plan for this machine was/is to have interchangeable control panels, so I don't have to try to squeeze EVERYTHING into one CP.

Nice.  Your 4-way panel looks great.  Real leaf switch buttons are a nice touch.  If you're still looking for a better 4-way stick, reunion sticks are supposed to be the best available right now for Ms. Pac-Man.  It doesn't have leaf switches, but maybe you could mod that!

I like how you already fixed the angle of the CP, yours look much better.

I'd really recommend a seventh button on the right on your UMK3 panel for four button game support.  So many good NEO GEO games...

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2012, 02:36:12 pm »
I have some issues when it comes to adjusting screen geometry in Powerstrip when I'm running a progressive scan resolution- anything I adjust makes it FREAK OUT.

Wasn't it interlaced resolutions that had the adjustment problems?

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2012, 02:57:15 pm »
Resolutiony things: Interlaced resolutions are the ones that run off the screen a little, and progressive resolutions are the ones that I absolutely cannot tweak in PowerStrip. No new developments here, you're just remembering it backwards. You mean you can't remember all the tiny minor details of my setup that we talked about months and months ago?!? Shocking!  ;)

Speaker: I'm using an M-Audio BX5a. 5" driver. I actually didn't mount the speaker enclosure around the back of the driver... as much as that might make sense to do, I opted not to since there is a 1.5" (i think) tweeter in this enclosure too that handles all of the high frequency stuff. If I mounted the enclosure face down around/behind the speaker, I'd have to cut another hole for the tweeter to blast through, and I didn't want to do that for cosmetic reasons. Instead, I have the enclosure mounted upright off to the side, so the tweeter still points forward toward the gamer. I lose some low-end response by taking the enclosure off the speaker, but there's not a lot going on in the below-100hz range in these games I wouldn't think, and this way I can still hear the high end. The tweeter is pointed right at my face which is obnoxiously shrill, but once the marquee light and panel are in it muffles the sound enough that everything balances out pretty well. Being an audio guy, I have some acoustic foam lying around that I may end up lining the top part of the cab with to avoid boomy echoes... but that's a ways down the road. And yeah, it COULD be stereo, but this is free! :) Also, the vast majority of the games I'm playing are in mono, like you said. I think even Mortal Kombat is... but don't quote me on that.

Joystick: It sounds stupid considering how anal I am about the joystick feel, but I actually don't care if it's microswitches or leaf switches in there. For me, my Pac-Man game is all about the restrictor plate and how well it lets me slam that joystick in 1 of 4 directions and keep it there, and how easily i can slam it in another direction with confidence. I've thought about that reunion stick... but it looks a TON like a Happ competition stick, from what pictures I have seen of it. How is it physically restricted? MikesArcade.com answered a few of my emails about it and it kinda sounds like it doesn't have the hard clunky super-solid feel I'd love to have in a Pac-Man stick. I've played a few different reunion cabinets and they all feel a little different to me so I'm not sure which stick is the real one that I'd be getting. MikesArcade has a variety of old replacement sticks, including some for Pac Man and some for Nintendo machines. I'm not sure if I'd like any of those... I've thought about ordering a whole slew of them and returning the ones I don't like the feel of.
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

yotsuya

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #13 on: December 16, 2012, 02:59:13 pm »
Joystick: It sounds stupid considering how anal I am about the joystick feel, but I actually don't care if it's microswitches or leaf switches in there. For me, my Pac-Man game is all about the restrictor plate and how well it lets me slam that joystick in 1 of 4 directions and keep it there, and how easily i can slam it in another direction with confidence. I've thought about that reunion stick... but it looks a TON like a Happ competition stick, from what pictures I have seen of it. How is it physically restricted? MikesArcade.com answered a few of my emails about it and it kinda sounds like it doesn't have the hard clunky super-solid feel I'd love to have in a Pac-Man stick. I've played a few different reunion cabinets and they all feel a little different to me so I'm not sure which stick is the real one that I'd be getting. MikesArcade has a variety of old replacement sticks, including some for Pac Man and some for Nintendo machines. I'm not sure if I'd like any of those... I've thought about ordering a whole slew of them and returning the ones I don't like the feel of.

FWIW, I replaced that stick that I sold you there with one of the Happ Reunion sticks and am much happier with the results. I got mine off eBay.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #14 on: December 16, 2012, 03:10:50 pm »
FWIW, I replaced that stick that I sold you there with one of the Happ Reunion sticks and am much happier with the results. I got mine off eBay.

Oh hi, sorry, forgot it was you that I got that stick from :)

I don't suppose you'd care to post some videos of that stick, would you? I wish there were more video reviews of joysticks available. I'd love to see it mounted in a CP in action so I could get a taste for how it moves and clunks into the cardinal directions, and I also wouldn't mind seeing the bottom or inside of the joystick, wherever the restrictor is placed, so I can understand how they constructed it. I have a restrictor from GGG mounted on my Happ Competition stick in my X-Arcade that isn't bad and has gotten me some pretty high scores, but is still in the "not quite what I want" area.
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2012, 03:15:52 pm »
Slightly slightly off topic- Remember the friend that I said was way into Ms. Pac-Man? He recorded a couple songs that it seems relevant to post here.

1) Ian's Burger Boss, specifically about my arcade building quest.
http://theblendours.bandcamp.com/track/ians-burger-boss

2) Love Only Costs a Quarter, about our favorite yellow lady with a red bow.
http://theblendours.bandcamp.com/track/love-only-costs-a-quarter
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2012, 04:49:58 pm »
@ rCadeGaming: About the 4th button thing... I thought about it. I don't really play the Neo Geo fighting games, as that's a style of fighter that never quite clicked with me, but I did want to leave that option open because, heck, I just played Bubble Bobble for the first time last night. Who knows what I could fall in love with? I opted to stick with 6 buttons for now at least. If I used the first button in the bottom row and the three in the top, that makes a surprisingly comfortable set of four buttons, especially if I use my thumb on the low row button. I figure this is good enough for now, since I have absolutely no games in mind that i'll be using that layout for anyway! I can always drill more holes, or make more CPs in the future.
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2012, 11:32:43 pm »
Speaker: I'm using an M-Audio BX5a. 5" driver. I actually didn't mount the speaker enclosure around the back of the driver... as much as that might make sense to do, I opted not to since there is a 1.5" (i think) tweeter in this enclosure too that handles all of the high frequency stuff.  If I mounted the enclosure face down around/behind the speaker, I'd have to cut another hole for the tweeter to blast through, and I didn't want to do that for cosmetic reasons.

I think the driver needs the benefit of the enclosure much more than the tweeter.  You should try the enclosure behind the driver and the tweeter relocated separately from the enclosure.

I've thought about that reunion stick... but it looks a TON like a Happ competition stick, from what pictures I have seen of it. How is it physically restricted? MikesArcade.com answered a few of my emails about it and it kinda sounds like it doesn't have the hard clunky super-solid feel I'd love to have in a Pac-Man stick. I've played a few different reunion cabinets and they all feel a little different to me so I'm not sure which stick is the real one that I'd be getting. MikesArcade has a variety of old replacement sticks, including some for Pac Man and some for Nintendo machines. I'm not sure if I'd like any of those... I've thought about ordering a whole slew of them and returning the ones I don't like the feel of.

It sounds like that's what you should do.  I don't know enough about the reunion stick to tell you these specifics.  I've just heard good things.

@ rCadeGaming: About the 4th button thing... I thought about it. I don't really play the Neo Geo fighting games, as that's a style of fighter that never quite clicked with me, but I did want to leave that option open because, heck, I just played Bubble Bobble for the first time last night. Who knows what I could fall in love with?

There are way more games for the NEO GEO than just fighters (although those fighters will grow on you, played Last Blade yet?), and there are other four buttons games not for NEO-GEO.  My idea for my cabs has been provisions for new things should be in place wherever reasonable.  I'm not going to let it become a big Franken-panel, but a seventh button doesn't get in the way of anything.

If you do feel you have to stick with six, be sure to configure four button games as

A B C
D X X

not

B C D
A X X

That's how it's often done, because rapidly tapping the primary button with your thumb gets tiring.

-

You might want to see this thread about quick swapping control panels.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129216.0.html

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2012, 02:40:44 am »
I got the coin door hooked up, and player 1 and 2 buttons drilled into the front! I had been playing a lot of old 4-way games, and tonight I finally got my first draft 2-player 8-way panel finished and hooked up! I was playing the Simpsons when it stopped responding to me dropping in a quarter (after days and days of this working just fine) and my player 1 start button stopped acting like a shift key, and would trigger when i pressed down instead of when I let up, so all my menu and quitting functionality disappeared. The '5' key wasn't working on the keyboard to drop in more coins, but the escape key still worked to get out of the game. Unplugging/replugging the interface didn't fix it, and neither did a restart. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong with the wiring... nothing disconnected, nothing touching anything it shouldn't be. I was around back with my little jeweler's screw driver to make sure all the connections were tight on the IPac, and I dropped the screwdriver from a height of about 6 inches onto the top of the case of the computer at the bottom of the cabinet. It made an internal-speaker beep when the tiny screw driver hit it, the fan sped back up to full speed, and the screen went black. Powering it down and back up produced a steady beep with no picture on the screen. I pulled the computer out and opened it up; the screwdriver had landed above where the video card is in the machine. I took the card out, made sure all the plugs and sockets and whatnot were all plugged in securely to the motherboard that's crammed right in there below the video card, made sure the card was plugged in well and all that stuff... and it's still dead.


Shoot.
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #19 on: December 24, 2012, 06:33:48 pm »
I don't know what to tell you.  I'm not too familiar with I-Pac's.  Did you check the key config in MAME?   :dunno

That's really bizarre about the computer.  I seen PC's take a decent amount of abuse and keep running.  Dropping a small screwdriver on the case shouldn't have done anything, I guess it was just extremely unlucky to jar something loose or something.  Is it still not running?

I kind of doubt the graphics card broke.  Try it in another computer.  If the PC is the problem, maybe it's time to upgrade if it's that fragile.

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #20 on: December 24, 2012, 09:52:02 pm »
I got it going for the short term. I've determined that there's a loose component on the mobo somewhere. Long story short, I'm getting another computer from a friend that should work just as well and much more quietly than my rack mount server with its ridiculous fans!
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #21 on: December 28, 2012, 10:44:10 pm »
I made a bezel, and it is in, along with the glass. Coin door lights are coming very soon. I'm in the process of getting a new computer up and running. Upon rCadeGaming's suggestion, i mounted the speaker enclosure from my powered speaker around the back of the driver again, and removed the tweeter and mounted it elsewhere, pointing sideways so the cutting high frequencies aren't pointing directly at the face of the player. More pics soon!
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #22 on: December 29, 2012, 12:36:13 am »
Nice!  Did it make a noticeable improvement or did it turn out to be more important in theory?

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2012, 04:07:55 pm »
You wanna know something stupid? I haven't even tried it out yet. I've been really preoccupied with getting another computer up and running; I think I got one going, I just need to go through all the Soft15khz garbage all over again. Hopefully it wont' be as big of a deal this time, but I totally should've taken better notes about how I finally got it going last time. I'll have to re-read the Newbie thread again to see if I spill the beans on specifically what drivers I used... I think i went with the modified ones that don't need Soft15 running... Whatever, I'll tackle that after work tonight and hopefully be on my way again.

Anyway- I played the TMNT music off of YouTube on my phone through the speaker when I had it mounted the old way, and it sounded alright. Since it made the whole top of the cabinet effectively be the speaker cabinet, the low end was kinda boomy and weird sounding. With this smaller, insulated enclosure with a bass port in the back, i should have much punchier and more focused sound. The tweeter being mounted sideways inside the cabinet should balance thigns out nicely without being too harsh.
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

rCadeGaming

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2012, 05:46:11 pm »
Did you read what I wrote about GroovyMAME in the TV thread (second post, first page)?  I'd keep that in mind if you're redoing your video setup.

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #25 on: December 30, 2012, 06:38:48 pm »
I like this project. Neat idea using the cartoon arcade as a template. I like the arcade in the cartoon, not real crazy about the cartoon though.

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #26 on: December 31, 2012, 01:25:18 am »
Season 1 of Bobs Burgers is one of my faves! The animation and comedic timing is wonderful.

Still haven't checked out GroovyMame, but I will. Here's where things are tonight, after much confusing arguing with my damn video card. Go to hell, 9200SE.

BEZEL!


DONKEY KONG! rCadeGaming, the sound is wonderful. It'll be interesting to see however putting up the marquee mutes the treble frequencies.

Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html

notbillcosby

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Re: Ian's BurgerBoss project thread
« Reply #27 on: January 08, 2013, 08:02:05 pm »
Current status:

Got the piece I needed from the cabinet's original owner to mount the marquee! I don't have my BurgerBoss marquee done yet, but it'll be finished before too long. Vector graphics are still fairly new to me, but it's coming along. I'll be able to play some games tonight with the old Roc 'n' Rope marquee in place to see how that effects the sound.

New computer is in and running. Some of my resolution stuff doesn't work as well as it did before, but at this point I'm pretty happy with how it looks and how playable it is, so I'm probably pushing the proverbial pause button on the graphics stuff to focus on more fun things, like finishing my control panels and- *gasp* -playing some games! The big one lately is Donkey Kong. I never gave it the time of day before, but now....

Got the Quarter lights running. I'm using the same 20oz bottle top mounting method that I used before, just now each top is holding an LED christmas light. Sure it looks a little tacky from the inside to have a string of lights in there, but a) it works really well and extremely easily, b) it lights the inside of the coin area as well as underneath the monitor, where my computer and interface live, and c) who gives a crap what it looks like on the inside? Functionality is key. The fact that my friend and I have spent a good 15-20 hours on Donkey Kong in the past week says something about how functional things are right now!

The panel with the speaker mounted to it now has a volume knob. It's on the right hand side, out of the way completely until you need to use it. Works great! I have it wired in parallel with the potentiometer that was mounted to the PCB in that speaker cabinet which means it buzzes when i turn the new knob down. It's annoying, and when I feel like getting into it, i'll just unmount the original pot from the board and leave this new one as the only one. That should fix it.

That's about it. I'm rounding third and heading for the plate...
Ian's BurgerBoss Cabinet project build thread!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129225.0.html