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Author Topic: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (DONE, FINISHED, FINITO!)  (Read 69037 times)

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floriske.nl

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To be able to keep all updates on the first page I have moved all 2012 updates and the original first post to the 3d post of this topic!



This project is supported by:



This build will be based on the following hardware:

Xbox classic (v1.6 with duo-x2) with 200GB hdd and coinops
21" samsung Syncmaster 214T LCD monitor (has an s-video input so it's perfect for the xbox and I can always switch to PC later)
22 HAPP buttons
3 smaller buttons
2 Battop fighter sticks with Cherry switches
2 KADE encoders (prototypes -> Thanks a lot Jon!)

After some useful remarks after posting my first design here's the somewhat final design for my bartop:



Blueprints:

Since it's now clear that all parts fit like they should and I got a few requests for this I decided to make a "blueprint" of the design:

Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10

Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with raster

Evo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster

floriske.nl 2012

These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.

These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.

Updates:

Updates are listed from new to old so the latest update is always on top.

20-10-2013

Time to call this project "Done!"

After playing around with my cnc router a lot I decided that it was time to finish this project.

A few small things still had to be done.

First of all the serial plate and bezel "logo":



Next the component to vga converter (glad I decided to go for this instead of s-video, picture is way better):



And a small dimmer for the marque led strips:


And with that it's finally finished:



Thanks everybody, for all the help and inspiration!! And special thanks to the people of KADE and Arcadewinkel.nl

03-07-2013

finished tidying up the internals and mounted the back door:



I had some noise on the video signal which turned out to be caused by the 12V psu for the amp and LED strips. Simply connecting a wire between the PSU negative and the monitor chassis solved this. (the black wire you see running to one of the vesa mounting holes).

With this the project is just about done  ;D

All that's left to do is:

- Open the xbox and solder the power and eject wiring for the CP
- The little artwork detail on the bezel (decided to try and print this myself on our OKI laser at work on waterslide decal paper which I ordered today)
- The serial plate. For this I have some leftover "stainless steel" decoration foil onto which I will stick the design, once again on waterslide decal paper.

01-07-2013

More pics than text because I'm on a short time span here  ;)

Mounted the marquee LED strips:


The lit result needs to become a bit more yellowish, hope I can achieve this by adding some yellowish vinyl behind the artwork.

Mounted my amp on a piece of wood that is stained in the same color as the cabinet (more on this later)


And the promised quick overview of what it looks like atm:


29-06-2013

Spent some time on wiring the control panel today. Damn what a time consuming job  :dizzy:

Just reminds me why I do these projects for fun, not for commercial purposes. That would never pay of  ;)

First of all the grounding harness:


And fully wired:


Didn't solder the shift and power leds yet but that's peanuts compared to the rest!

16-05-2013
Yesterday I've picked up my artwork and apllied it. The clearview stickers look great behind the plexiglas and polystyrene:



25-05-2013

After a well earned holiday I picked up my cabinet base last wednesday. In the meantime I've mounted my speakers and drilled the last two holes in the CP for the joysticks. Did a quick placement of all buttons etc. just to get an idea what it will look like.

Progress is still slow, but ongoing  ;)



03-05-2013

Glued the base together so it's now ready for staining/painting.



30-04-2013
I've put aside some of the other stuff I'm busy with atm and finally did some more work on my bartop.

First of all because my admin panel is 41mm thick (2x18mm wood + 5mm top) I had to route down the backside of it so the happ buttons can be mounted properly:



Next I routed the holes for the joysticks.

First I made a template for the routing work. Since I'm using a 12mm router bit in a 17mm guide bush I had to make the holes in the template 5mm larger than the desired final size.



For correct alignment I drew a cross onto the CP as well as on the templates at the center of each side.



First I routed the trough and through holes for the body of the joysticks.



And next the ones to flush mount them.



23-02-2013
It's been a while because of the cold weather and I've been busy with all kinds of other stuff, but here's a small update of the project.

First of all I've mounted my speakers.



After that I could measure how much room there was left between the marque and the speakers and route slots for the backpanel of the marque (this wil be removable just like the marque itself)



Next to that I've routed a small slot in the top of the front panel (underneath the cp) so when I would like to use normal controllers with the xbox I can route the cable through this slot.



Hope to make some more progress the following days.

28-01-2013

Just routed my cp top.

First I've done some testing since the polystyrene tends to melt and for those ever needing to route this material:

Use a lower speed, work counterclockwise and move fast, that gives the best result.

the pics are directly after routing, no sanding yet and the protective plastic is still on on one side (between the wood and panel), any scratches you see are on the sheet instead of the material itself.



26-01-2013

Finally after some drama: some success!

After ruining my plexi twice I decided to go for polystyrene this time (they didn't have thick enough lexan at the local hardware store). This tends to melt a bit faster so I had to drill a bit slower, but doesn't crack as easy as plexi does.

Here are some photo's of drilling the first plexi panel (used somewhat the same proces for the final one)

First I spray glued my cp template onto the wood and pre drilled the holes with a 3mm drill:



Next I placed the plexi panel on top and drilled the 2 holes for the joysticks so I could mount the plexi to the wood with 2 hex bolts.



After this I drilled all holes into the plexi as well using a battery drill and drilling from the back (through the existing holes in the wood first)



Next step: drilling the buttons. the happ buttons went just fine, but with the smaller admin buttons I messed things up.



So as mentioned I bought a polystyrene panel and redrilled all the holes using the wooden cp as template:



Next step: routing the edges with a flush trim bit and rounding them after that.

17-01-2013

Yesterday I mounted the hinge panel and glued the cp to it:



Unfortunately I did a slight miscalculation on the hinge point, not a major problem, but I wanted the cp to open up just a bit further than it does now, but yet again not too much because else the joysticks would/could hit the screen.

Still it opens up more than enough to reach the xbox etc. inside the cabinet without having to open the back panel.

The cp will be fit with a gas strut or something similar so it stays open, for now a screw driver will do ;)

15-01-2013

It's been a while since I posted an update, mainly due to the holidays and being busy with all kind of other stuff. Amongst which "Selling my motion sim".

But picked this up again today and started with making my cp hinge points.

At first I wanted to use standard hinges for this, but thought of a method of creating something my self (which is more fun of course ;)).

Instead of the panel that was cut for this purpose I took a leftover piece with the same length as the original one. It's still a bit too wide but I will cut this to the right size later.

First of all I drilled a hole with my dowel drill on each side of the panel at the point I want the panel to turn:



Next I routed little slots with my bench top drill which has a cross table for simple routing work.



Took a couple of dowels, drilled a 2,5mm hole in them and fitted an m3 hex bolt:



Putting the parts together results in my own "sliding" hinges which makes the cp easily removable when needed.



To drill the holes inside the side panels of the cabinet I used a few simple dowel center points.

All 2012 updates have been move to the 3d post of this topic to be able to keep all updates on the first page of the topic
« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 10:40:01 am by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2012, 10:19:45 am »
Looks good.  What program did you do your design in?

floriske.nl

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2012, 11:44:34 am »
18-12-2012

Curious what the router template was for? Here's the answer.

First of all it was sort of an experiment to see if this type of work could easily be done with a plunge router.

But most important it was for my ventilation- and speaker slots in the back- and top panels:



The XR in the center was just a little extra. Since it's the back it won't be really visible, but it was fun to do and ads some extra ventilation to the cabinet ;)

Here they are placed back in the cab:



And a last pic of my cheap #55 speakers.



26-12-2012

Not really an update, but more of a teaser of a routing template I've been working on an I hope will work out (need to get myself a new router bit first because the current one is quite blunt and good enough for routing the template, but not for the actual work):



22-12-12

Since my speakers didn't arrive yet I decided to do some other work and mounted my monitor today.

Made 4 simple brackets to mount the monitor to the panel:



Next I mounted 4 aluminum brackets for mounting the monitor panel to the cabinet. Found some nice brackets with slot holes which look better than simple steel ones and the slotted holes give me some room to position it precisely.


And here it is assembled in the cab:



19-12-12

Just finished taking apart the cab, rounding all edges and putting it back together:

 

As you can see my plexi for the marquee arrived as well (for the cp as wel but nothing interesting about a square piece that needs work ;)). I've ardered 2 pieces, 4mm thick and 3mm thick and the latter works perfect with my mounting system. 4mm is just a bit too thick and requires some bending to get it in.

Hopefully my speakers arrive tomorrow so I can do the last woodwork on the top panel. After this I can glue the base together and start working on mounting the monitor, the back door and start working on the cp.

16-12-12

Managed to get some work done today, but not everything turned out like I hoped for  :-[ (luckily all fixable).

I routed the monitor panel today:

Since I'm using a guide bush on my router for this I took a few left over pieces of plywood and screwed them onto the monitor panel.

I'm using an 18mm guide bush and a 12mm router bit so I have to screw the plywood 3mm further away from the lines that indicate the screen size (hope that makes sense ;))



Next I started routing in steps of about 5mm in depth until I completely finished the hole for the screen.



Since I want to slightly flush mount the monitor I had to move plywood pieces further outside for routing the second stage:



Resulting in the semi-finished panel (already filled the screw holes on these pics):



Test fitting the monitor:



After turning it around...:



... I discovered that I made 2 mistakes:

- The hole for the monitor panel is about a mm or 2 too wide resulting in the metal edges of the screen being visible.

Going to "fix" this by making the metal edges black.

- Because 18mm of the monitor panel will stick behind the bottom marque panel I had to shift the monitor 18 mm to keep it centered in the visible area of the panel. But I shifted the hole in the wrong direction, resulting in the monitor being way off center :(

Luckily this panel will get painted instead of stained so I've filled the old dowel holes in the narrow side and drilled new ones on the other side (no pictures of this because the filler is drying atm and needs sanding afterwards)

It was raining on and off today and I reckon both mistakes are because of being too hasty, a good lesson not to be next time!

Edit:

Here's one extra picture of the panel back in place after filling and sanding the old dowel holes:



11-12-12

Since I'm always busy with other stuff and it's winter (read: bad weather) because of witch I can't do much work outside (the router work etc. is what I have to do outside to prevent a thick layer of dust that I need to clear out on everything in our garage) this project progresses slow, but I've managed to get some small work done the past few days.

First of all I've disassembled the monitor:



Next to that I've routed the slots for the marquee:



As you can see the slot in the top panel is deeper than the one in the bottom panel so I can slide the marquee into the top first and let it drop into the bottom one next.

I've also drilled a few dowels in the top edge of the monitor panel to connect it to the bottom marquee panel. This way I'm sure it aligns propperly and the marquee bottom can't bend this way either.

They are not going to be glued together because the monitor panel will be a different color and mounted seperately/non permanent so if I'd even need a new monitor it will be easily exchangable.

With this done I could do another test mounting to see if all parts fit like they should and so far so good:



4-12-2-12

I've just cut my cp:



4-12-2012

Good thing I didn't cut my cp yet  :notworthy: (and a good thing I didn't share my templates yet)

Why? Because there was a pretty big flaw in my design :banghead: because I didn't create a top view of the total cabinet since I didn't think it would be needed. But when I cut my cp template last night and placed it on my cabinet I discovered that the rounding at the front was too big because of which the cp didn't fully overlap the actual cabinet  :censored:

This resulted in me having to create a modified design:



Shapewise I prefer the previous version, but am happy with this one as well.

2-12-2012

Found some time to work on the cabinet today.

My initial plans where to cut the cp and round the edges of the sidepanels, but because I started having doubts about rounding the edges or simply sanding them a bit I decided to do some other work.

Today I've drilled most of the dowels which I'm using to mount the base together. For which I bought a very handy tool.



After this I couldn't resist putting it together (without glue for now) to get an idea what it will look like. And here it is on our kitchen bar (a suitable place for a bartop ;) )



I've placed a wine bottle next to it to give you an idea of the actual dimensions.

The only panel that I still need to drill the dowels for is the bottom of the marque (all other panels will either be removable or mounted differently), but I couldn't do this yet. The tool I bought requires a straight wood edge, but at that point the sidepanels are almoste completely rounded (inner and outer corner). So I need 8mm dowel centre points for this and I only have 10mm atm.

Edit:

Figured a way to propperly drill the dowels for the other panel as well (without centre points):



28-10-2012

After finishing my motion sim a few days ago I found some time to start on this project.

First here's some pictures of the hardware I've gathered so far (monitor isn't on the pictures but I do have it as well)



Yesterday I've found some time to cut out the side panels. After cutting the first one with the hacksaw I've traced it on to the wood again and cut a few mm around it (once again with the hacksaw). After this I've used a copy bit in my router to trace it and make sure I have 2 exact copies.



Next steps: Rounding the edges and cutting the control panel.

---------

Original first post:

After almost finishing my 2 DOF motion simulator I'm allready working on a new project: An Xbox based Bartop. It's my first arcade project.

The project is supported by:



At this moment I'm gathering materials for my build, but it will basically based on the following hardware:

Xbox classic (v1.6 with duo-x2) with 200GB hdd and coinops
21" samsung Syncmaster 214T LCD monitor (has an s-video input so it's perfect for the xbox and I can always switch to PC later)
24 HAPP buttons
2 Battop fighter sticks with Cherry switches
KADE encoder(s) I hope (depends on when they will be released, else I will solder to a controller pcb or go for the Arcade forge Dual strike or X-Arcade encoder)

Here's the basic design of the cabinet, some dimensions might change a little due to actual hardware dimensions (the design was made before my hardware started to arrive):



The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room. There will be no expressive decals etc. The only decal I'm going to design is a subtle one for the button panel labeling the buttons.

That's it for now, but I'm hoping to start building and posting updates on short notice!

---------

Original 3d post:

Thanks!

I'm a graphic designer so for me it's easy to use the tools I work with on a daily basis. Adobe illustrator in this case.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2013, 07:23:36 am by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2012, 12:07:25 pm »
lcd monitor s-video? that would have like a second delay lol..

you should consider getting some kind of hd cable or something. nice design tho.

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2012, 12:56:32 pm »
I really like your design.  I've been sketching out a few designs that are similar but I like what you have done with the CP better!  My design has the top of the CP flush with the sides so your hands can hang over a bit but making the CP itself hang over makes more sense.
 :cheers:

What I like:
  • classic lines
  • 2 Players not having to sit on each others laps/ good sized CP for a bartop
  • xBox/KADE

What I wonder about:
  • left joystick looks close to the side of the cab, might be hard to wire depending on joystick type
  • too many buttons.  You only really need 6 for each player for gameplay on the xBox + start/back for both players.  You might want a few admin buttons, shift, and possibly triggers out of the way- maybe on the front.  the image is a bit small to see the labels on the buttons you have along the top.
  • I'd consider a VGA hack or stock component for video
  • will taller people have the marquee area getting in the way of the top of the screen?

If you are willing to share, I'd love to mess around with the .ai files.  I only have CS3 if you do feel like posting them.

Your motion simulator is really cool too!

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2012, 11:19:36 am »
In my first design I had sort of a cp box wider than the cabinet but when I started to work on the button layout I noticed that it would fit between the side panels. That's how I came up with the idea of the cp sticking out the sides.

The cp will be detachable and if my calculations and measurements are correct there should be no problems with the left joystick.

Next to that the above sketch was made before my parts stated to arrive. In the meantime most of it had arrived and I'm going to do a more final design in the next few days.

Regarding the buttons: don't know if you ever heard the phrase "switches get b!tche$" ;)

Ok, serious: the top 4 buttons are start, back, shift and exit. The 2 below the standard controls are the triggers.
Personally I prefer placement on the cp instead of the front or sides and I have an idea to place the top 4 a bit further from the rest of the buttons which you'll see in my new design. The triggers are needed because I want to be able to play some Xbox games with the cp as well.

I have hooked up the monitor yesterday and didn't notice any significant delay on the s-video input. If it should turn out to be present in a layer stage I can always revert to a vga hack instead.

The marquee is a point of thought indeed. Think I'll make it a bit less deep in the next design.

Btw if I'm going to use Kade is still depending on the release date ;) but hope so!

Thx for the compliments on the design and my motion sim!
« Last Edit: October 08, 2012, 02:14:30 pm by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2012, 02:14:52 pm »
 Started on the adjusted design today:


(click the image for a larger version)

The biggest changes are the (over 5cm) less deep marquee and the cp with extruding section for the admin buttons.

As you can see I also made a rough start with the "simple" artwork. Guess what it will be an "ode" to ;)

Edit:

updated the design a bit:

Slightly deeper marquee
Slightly raised the monitor
Added the rounded edges of the cp to the design
Came up with a name which should speak for itself (for those to whom it isn't: evo-x was the first decent dashboard for modded xboxes)
Marquee design
« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 12:28:57 pm by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2012, 04:07:50 pm »
Looks great!

Two thoughts:
Ron310 has a slightly different way to solve the marquee issue with a classic styled bartop that is worth taking a look at:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120622.0.html

What is going to happen here where the sides of the cab, the monitor and fixed button area, and the CP interface?





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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2012, 03:24:47 am »
I don't really like the straight top/slanted bottom of the marquee, I prefer the lines in parallel like in my design. I've done a quick mock up with a piece of carboard and I think I'm going to enlarge it again slightly because since the bottom of the marque is in a 90 degree angle with the screen it doesn't get in the way as much as you'd think.

Regarding the cp:

Hope this makes sense in my best of english, but once it's done it will be ;): the edges of the entire cp will be rounded (5mm) and thus the cp will stick out 5mm above the side panels. The new "extruded" admin button part will be in between the side panels. (the grey lines in the design are "behind" the sidepanel)

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2012, 04:11:46 am »
I think your english is better than mine!

That all makes sense to me.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #10 on: October 09, 2012, 05:42:28 am »
The english itself isn't the problem, I'm well tought in that, but it's making something clear that can be troublesome once a while ;)

Updated the design a few posts back a bit to sort of "semi-final".

offtopic: Nice avatar by the way! I've been an old school skater so that surely brings back memories! ;)
« Last Edit: October 09, 2012, 06:37:41 am by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2012, 05:58:34 am »
Since the dust washers over time will "damage/scratch" the plexiglass of my cp I've been thinking about a way to use them differently and came up with this:



This way the dust washers are underneath the plexiglass instead of on top.

The 32mm hole is a wild gues, will have to measure the actual movement of the joysticks to determine the exact dimensions.

No idea how this would look, but if I don't like it I can easilly place them on top anyway ;) In my CP design there's a "black" circle around the joysticks and since my dustwashers are black as well I hope that it will look ok.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 12:29:30 pm by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #12 on: October 10, 2012, 06:19:02 am »
Are you SURE the adhesive won't discolor over time or make the artwork look like it is smeared with a thin layer of vaseline?   :dunno

Maybe 2 layers of 2 mm plexi with the art sandwiched between would work?

- 2mm plexi -
----- art -----
-- adhesive --
- 2mm plexi -


Scott

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #13 on: October 10, 2012, 06:53:55 am »
These stickers are used as window stickers normally and are available in removable, permanent and static adhesive.
The waranty on the colors is 2-3 years in direct sunlight (so in a living room it should last a lot longer.

I'm going to ask for a sample so I can see what applying them does to the colors (if you can see that it's printed on the glue side)

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #14 on: October 10, 2012, 09:27:25 am »
Nice wrk man....this is coming along great....one thing i've noticed and you mugth have done this on purpose...

But 2 exit buttons is overkill.  If you end up using Kade, hitting exit off of one the encoders is gonna kill the game.

LOL, one of sharpforks biggest pet peave's is the accidental game exit, you will have 2 options to exit, start+back or the dedicated exit button.  I would recommend only 1 exit, having on both sides is just asking for trouble  :)

 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: 

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2012, 10:08:36 am »
Thx!

Problem is that losing one of the exit buttons means losing my symmetry and i don't like having to press 2 buttons.

I could solve this by using one of the 2 buttons for ejecting the tray (looking into mounting the drive in such way that it is still usable). The power switch will most likely be placed in the center between de admin buttons and will be a smaller sized button.

Here's an updated design more related to the artwork. As mentioned the wood will be birch or oak and painted in the same color as our furniture.

« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 12:29:51 pm by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #16 on: October 10, 2012, 11:46:06 am »
I understand....

Just an idea....

Power and Exit in the center smaller buttons as stated

Start Back Shift for each player centered.........so 3 and 3 and 2 smaller in the center...

The smaller exit button will also help with the oopsies....

Since your doing a full layout, cuttins down on the button overall buttons will cut down on the clutter efftect.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2012, 03:03:41 am »
Not a bad idead indeed.

I would add eject to the small buttons as well though and will have to find some nice looking buttons which isn't easy because a lot of them either look bad or have only a few mm of thread and they have to clear the 2mm plexiglass + at least a few mm of the wood panel as well.

Else I would have to mount the switches directly in the plexiglass which could lead to unwanted "pressure" on the artwork vinyl causing wrinkles unless the nut is smaller than the switches top ring which leads me to something like these buttons or these.

Another option, but not prefered, is to tap thread for the button directly into the wood, have done this before and it works but would require a button with the right thread (for which I have a tap that is ;))

Too bad they don't sell "mini" arcade buttons.

Edit: or maybe something like these buttons mounted on a piece of prototype board so I can fasten it from underneath but I think I prefer the above.

Edit 2:

Ok, decided to go for the second option because the 1st buttons are too big and the 3d too small and it's too much hassle to mount them.

Which leads to the following adjusted cp design:

« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 12:37:45 pm by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #18 on: October 11, 2012, 07:57:39 am »
you could always try drilling/routering a larger hole from behind to suit the threaded nut, or go for a longer button stem and just hot glue it in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-MOMENTARY-ARCADE-BUTTON-WHITE-NEW-/370575274740?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item564801f2f4

Regarding the Kade, Degenatron is a member here and lives in England, might be best to send him a PM to get a better idea of release, that way you can work around it.

If you are going down the non vga route at least use scart, pretty sure with scart you can power one of the pins so the tv switches to the correct channel( possibly out of standby too)
You have a 1.6 xbox, there is no vga bios hack available for this. I managed to pick up a mayflash YPbPr to RGBHV VGA from ebay, once the region is changed to NTSC and 480p/720p enabled it works fine.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2012, 08:28:38 am »
That's exactly what I decided to do, since the nut of the switches I ordered is just as big as the switch top I reckon there will be no problem with wrinkles in the artwork.

I don't like the looks of the mini buttons from arcadeworld.

I'm not using a TV but a PC LCD monitor with S-Video input, so scart (basically at best component+audio in a little box ;)) is not an option.

I have another v1.0 Xbox as well, so as mentioned: If the S-Video turns out to be too laggy I will go the VGA route, but so far I haven't noticed any significant delay on the input.

p.s. Thanks for the tip on Kade, might just do that but don't want to bother him too much.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #20 on: October 11, 2012, 10:01:48 am »

The one thing you will notice between the svideo and vga is the quality.

I've emailed Degenatron and forwarded this thread to him. If he has time i'm sure he'll read it.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #21 on: October 11, 2012, 10:19:25 am »
I'm quite happy with the quality of the s-video signal on the 214T, no jitter, and for instance the XBMC flicker filter can easily be set back to 0 without a problem so for now it's ok for me.

Next to that an arcade game shouldn't look too crisp ;)

Thanks for forwarding the thread!

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Re: Floriske.nl's Xbox Bartop
« Reply #22 on: October 11, 2012, 11:22:23 am »
Thanks!

I'm a graphic designer so for me it's easy to use the tools I work with on a daily basis. Adobe illustrator in this case.

Right on, that is what I figured by the look of it.  I am a designer as well, that is why I was curious.

Looks good.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #23 on: October 31, 2012, 08:19:42 pm »
Hi Floriske.nl,

I sent you a PM re: the KADE.  I sure would love to see them showcased in your cab.  Nice work!

Thanks
Jon 
« Last Edit: October 31, 2012, 08:21:42 pm by degenatrons »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Almost done)
« Reply #24 on: November 02, 2012, 04:28:42 am »
Thanks a lot for that Jon, looking forward to playing around with them!

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #25 on: November 21, 2012, 02:23:10 pm »
The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room.

Just FYI... You are going to kick yourself if you go this route!  You dont router round plywood.  If you are going to use plywood then go with tmolding.  If you insist on rounding the edges with a router then use MDF!   ;)

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #26 on: November 21, 2012, 04:05:51 pm »
Hi Floris,

I really like the design with that colors! Hope that the Xbox will perform well.

Keep it up.

Grtz,
Arno

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #27 on: November 22, 2012, 01:33:01 pm »
The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room.

Just FYI... You are going to kick yourself if you go this route!  You dont router round plywood.  If you are going to use plywood then go with tmolding.  If you insist on rounding the edges with a router then use MDF!   ;)

No I'm not :P

I've used this method before with great success,  all it takes is some practice (I've built flight cases, amp racks,  tool cabinets for cars etc. as a profession for a few years).

But since I decided to go with oak panels instead of plywood anyway I won't have to kick myself for sure ;)

Hi Floris,

I really like the design with that colors! Hope that the Xbox will perform well.

Keep it up.

Grtz,
Arno

Thx arno!

I've heard good things about coinops so I reckon it will be fine.

Currently got some personal stuff to deal with first so the project is slightly delayed but I've finished my motion sim today :D so should be able to start on short notice.

Grtz!

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #28 on: November 22, 2012, 01:38:50 pm »
Yes, coinops is very good. I have a modded xbox with coinops 4 on it, and it is really impressive !

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #29 on: November 22, 2012, 02:18:13 pm »
Maybe you guys should check out 'Vision' if you're wanting more of a showcase dash/frontend..
« Last Edit: November 22, 2012, 02:19:55 pm by johnm »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #30 on: November 28, 2012, 12:49:40 pm »


After finishing my motion sim a few days ago I found some time to start on this project.

First here's some pictures of the hardware I've gathered so far (monitor isn't on the pictures but I do have it as well)



Yesterday I've found some time to cut out the side panels. After cutting the first one with the hacksaw I've traced it on to the wood again and cut a few mm around it (once again with the hacksaw). After this I've used a copy bit in my router to trace it and make sure I have 2 exact copies.



Next steps: Rounding the edges and cutting the control panel.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2012, 04:50:54 am by floriske.nl »

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Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #31 on: November 28, 2012, 01:26:19 pm »
Great to see you back on this project (nice motion sim by the way). I'll be following this closely as I intend to build an Xbox-based bartop in the near future as well. I love your design. Good luck!

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #32 on: November 28, 2012, 01:30:53 pm »
Since I'm also planing to build a bartop I will follow this project very closely.

Nice project you have!

Do you think its possible to share the editable files of the plans? So I can make some changes for my own version?

Thanks!

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #33 on: November 28, 2012, 09:09:15 pm »
I really like the design. Following.

All the best.

edit: I have to agree with the the too many buttons comments but it's your project so your call. :)

Have you routed the edges of birch before? you might get some chip outs but nothing a bit of putty won't fix.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 09:14:18 pm by two40 »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #34 on: November 29, 2012, 05:19:40 am »
Great to see you back on this project (nice motion sim by the way). I'll be following this closely as I intend to build an Xbox-based bartop in the near future as well. I love your design. Good luck!
Thx! Always nice to see if someone finds your design inspiring ;)

Since I'm also planing to build a bartop I will follow this project very closely.

Nice project you have!

Do you think its possible to share the editable files of the plans? So I can make some changes for my own version?

Thanks!
Thanks as well!

I will make the drawings public later on, not just yet, I want to build the cabinet first to see if any changes need to made, after that I will "clean up" the design files to a template.

I really like the design. Following.

All the best.

edit: I have to agree with the the too many buttons comments but it's your project so your call. :)

Have you routed the edges of birch before? you might get some chip outs but nothing a bit of putty won't fix.

And yet another thank you!

The buttons are my call indeed, I think the current amount is what I really need since I want to be able to use all functions of the xbox controller (to be able to play normal games as well).

Next to that I think my "seperate" extruding admin button panel limits the "Frankenpanel" feel enough ;)

Regarding the rounding of the edges:

I have router rounded birch before, but since I'm using oak for this project  >:D I will do a test on a leftover piece first.

I have a fairly new (sharp) rounding bit and i don't expect any problems when using a high rpm and slowly moving the router (patience is a virtue ;) )

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Design stage -> Done)
« Reply #35 on: December 01, 2012, 05:53:37 pm »
Maybe you guys should check out 'Vision' if you're wanting more of a showcase dash/frontend..


looks cool.    do you have a link.?

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #36 on: December 02, 2012, 09:37:53 am »


Would probably break the rules if i posted links, the coder also does coinops for the xbox if that helps with google.

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop (Started building)
« Reply #37 on: December 02, 2012, 12:48:22 pm »


Found some time to work on the cabinet today.

My initial plans where to cut the cp and round the edges of the sidepanels, but because I started having doubts about rounding the edges or simply sanding them a bit I decided to do some other work.

Today I've drilled most of the dowels which I'm using to mount the base together. For which I bought a very handy tool.



After this I couldn't resist putting it together (without glue for now) to get an idea what it will look like. And here it is on our kitchen bar (a suitable place for a bartop ;) )



I've placed a wine bottle next to it to give you an idea of the actual dimensions.

The only panel that I still need to drill the dowels for is the bottom of the marque (all other panels will either be removable or mounted differently), but I couldn't do this yet. The tool I bought requires a straight wood edge, but at that point the sidepanels are almoste completely rounded (inner and outer corner). So I need 8mm dowel centre points for this and I only have 10mm atm.

Edit:

Figured a way to propperly drill the dowels for the other panel as well (without centre points):

« Last Edit: December 05, 2012, 04:51:13 am by floriske.nl »

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Re: Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop(design flaw discovered & fixed)
« Reply #38 on: December 04, 2012, 05:21:26 am »


Good thing I didn't cut my cp yet  :notworthy: (and a good thing I didn't share my templates yet)

Why? Because there was a pretty big flaw in my design :banghead: because I didn't create a top view of the total cabinet since I didn't think it would be needed. But when I cut my cp template last night and placed it on my cabinet I discovered that the rounding at the front was too big because of which the cp didn't fully overlap the actual cabinet  :censored:

This resulted in me having to create a modified design:



Shapewise I prefer the previous version, but am happy with this one as well.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2012, 04:51:28 am by floriske.nl »

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Floriske.nl's "evo XR cade" xbox bartop(design flaw discovered & fixed)
« Reply #39 on: December 04, 2012, 06:30:30 am »
What's with all this advertising? Not trying to stick my nose where it doesn't belong and if I'm out of line excuse my ignorance but really? You're going to spam your sponsors with every update?