Housing PC components in Mame Cab

[RichH6109]

OK, so I've tried searching before posting but I don't know exactly what I'm looking for (!).

I've finished the woodwork element of my cabinet and now I've got the donor PC to power my Mame cabinet.  Does the typical cab build just contain a mini-tower PC in the bottom of the cabinet or do most cab builders strip out the components and lose the unit?  I'm tempted to pull the PC apart and mount the components separately to save weight but I don't know if I will need hard drive caddies etc. to ensure that the bare components don't touch the MDF of the cab.  I'm trying to keep the build as low cost as possible.

Thanks,
R.

[TopJimmyCooks]

you see both, PC cases and the components board mounted.  I used a SFF case on my cab because I had the room.  I put it behind the lcd monitor.  My original plan was to board mount but since I had the room, I kept the case.  There's no wrong way to go on this. 

[ghettodish]

I like to use the whole computer with the case. It's easy, and I don't have to worry about cooling it.

[Dervacumen]

I take mine out of the case and mount directly to the wood with standoffs and screws.  I use metal strapping that's intended to hang HVAC and other piping to make custom mounting brackets for the DVD, hard drive, and power supply.
It is super easy to use if you have a pair of tin snips.



<edit: spelling, grammar>

[yotsuya]

I decase all my projects. Seems much more authentic.

[TheShaner]

I have deceased mine as well.  There is no wrong way, but it does seem more authentic arcade to me. I also have some LEDs in mine that light it up when I open the back to show off the guts. Higher wow factor.

[Drnick]

And I have done it both ways, my jukebox is decased and the bartop I am building is in it's case.  So basically if you have the room leave it in the case, If you want it to look more authentic then decase the unit.

[cigardude]

My first build was a full size cab so it was a no brainer to just put the computer in, case and all. I am currently working on more of a console style cab and I am mounting all of the components inside, no PC case. It all depends on if you have the space and how comfortable you are with pulling apart a PC and mounting it your self.

[alfonzotan]

I never had a case to begin with, just built the computer from the motherboard up and mounted everything to the side of the cab.  Gave me quite a bit of available storage space behind the front door.

[nickbuol]

My first cabinet had a de-cased computer inside.  It worked out well with a few DIY solutions to hold cooling fans over the motherboard.  But honestly, nobody, and I mean nobody, ever saw inside the cabinet.  They didn't care, so the next time around (current cabinet) I just left the computer in the case.  It was simple and easy, and besides, my cabinet screams M.A.M.E., so it wasn't like I was trying to mimic an authentic cabinet. 

Now, if I had reproduced let's say a Pac-Man cab, or Donkey Kong or something, then maybe I would decase it again so that when turned off it would be less obvious as being a PC in there.

No right or wrong way.  Honestly, I think that most of the people that de-case are doing it for their own benefit (they enjoy the looks of it, or the creative ways to mount the hardware) more than anything.  Nothing wrong with that at all...   

[drventure]

Just my 2c

Like other's have said,there's no right or wrong way.

To be honest, if you're building a full size cab and you don't need the internal space for things like swappable cp's or whatever, then just leaving the PC in its case is going to be MUCH simpler. No one looks inside cabs anyway (except your fellow BYOACers  ) so no one but you would care.

[severdhed]

i have 1 of each.  My first cabinet, i decased it and mounted everything to the inside of the cabinet.  in my showcase cabinet, i just have a PC in the case sitting inside.  This makes it easier if i need to pull the PC out to work on it, but seems to make it harder to tweak things without removing the whole thing from the cabinet. I think i will de-case it one of these days

[RandyT]

To be honest, if you're building a full size cab and you don't need the internal space for things like swappable cp's or whatever, then just leaving the PC in its case is going to be MUCH simpler. No one looks inside cabs anyway (except your fellow BYOACers  ) so no one but you would care.

I'll lend my support to this notion as well.  Nowadays, you can get lots of power in small cases, so if it fits and there is enough air flow in the area you plan to put it in, it's a lot easier than trying to duplicate the parts which are already in the case.  If you plan to move the cabinet at some point, it also makes it easier to lighten it up / protect the brains of the thing by removing it and transporting it separately.

[Nephasth]

Many ways to skin a cat. This is how I skinned mine...

[krick]

While most arcade games in the early 80's had exposed circuit boards bolted to the wall of the cabinet, many later game boards were partially or completely enclosed in metal frames or cases for various reasons...

1) protection for the boards from accidental damage while working inside the cabinet

2) shielding for RF interference

3) better cooling with fans and directed airflow paths

4) physical mounting is easier and more secure for complex multiple board configurations

Basically, the hardware got more complex and PC-like, which required better housing and mounting solutions.


I originally tried de-casing my PC and mounting it to a board inside my cabinet, but I wasn't happy with the results.  The video card wasn't very stable since it sticks out of the board at a right angle, and the whole setup was hard to work on when I needed to change anything.

I eventually ended up installing a roll-out shelf in my cabinet and I installed the PC parts in a HTPC case from Antec...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129034
The case only fits micro-ATX motherboards, but it can handle a full-sized ATX power supply and full-height video cards.  The case is compact, but not limiting.

Note that I didn't pay that much for the case.  I bought one off Ebay that had a few minor scratches (nobody ever sees it anyway inside my cabinet) and didn't have a power supply.

Now, when I need to work on the PC, I can roll the shelf out and remove the top side of the case to access everything.  And if I need to do more serious work, I can easily remove the PC from the arcade cabinet completely.

[Rando]

Add me to the tally for keeping it in the case.  Of course I have to reach in and hit the Power button on the PC when I want to boot-up the Cab, so I may not count. 

[HaRuMaN]

Add me to the tally for keeping it in the case.  Of course I have to reach in and hit the Power button on the PC when I want to boot-up the Cab, so I may not count. 

Mines in the case, but I rigged a happs button on the top of the cab to turn the power on.

[nickbuol]

I've seen a number of de-cased ones that look real similar to the authentic (80's vintage or older) style.

And then there are other de-cased ones that just look like a case missing 4.5 sides... 

[krick]

Add me to the tally for keeping it in the case.  Of course I have to reach in and hit the Power button on the PC when I want to boot-up the Cab, so I may not count.  

Mines in the case, but I rigged a happs button on the top of the cab to turn the power on.

I picked up a push button switch from radio shack (see below) and mounted it in the spot where my cabinet originally had a toggle switch.  One press turns on my computer, another press shuts down my computer.

RadioShack Momentary Switch
Normally open. Includes one red and one black. Pkg. of 2
Catalog #: 275-609
$3.69
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496



I also put a Vantec ION 400B power supply (sadly they no longer make/sell them) in my PC that has a switched AC outlet on the back.  I've plugged the cabinet power cord (powers the monitor and marquee) into that outlet and it switches on and off with the PC.


You can achieve the same result as my power supply by using an EcoStrip 2.0 - USB Controlled Power Strip.  Though you may need to configure a motherboard jumper or possibly a BIOS setting so that it doesn't do the "USB standby power" thing when the computer is off.

For the more industrious among us, you could probably build something yourself involving a relay, but once you've purchased the parts and factored in what your time is worth, you'll probably make out better just buying the power strip from Amazon linked above.

[Ravenger]

I used a detachable motherboard tray from an old case screwed to an old piece of shelving. The PSU is fixed onto the shelf using angle brackets, whilst the hard disk is fastened using an adapted 5 1/4" bay adaptor bracket with rubber grommets to minimize vibration.

The shelf is velcroed vertically to the side of the cab, which makes it easy to take the whole PC in and out if needed.

The front panel button assembly of the old case is secured just inside the arcade cabinet door again using velcro, so I can turn the machine off or reset it using the buttons, and check the HDD light if there are any problems.

The PC is plugged into a smart power adapter which turns off the monitor, lights and sound amp when the PC shuts down. The PC is set in the bios to turn itself on when power is restored, so just plugging the cabinet in turns the whole lot on, and shutting down the PC turns it all off.

[drventure]

The shelf is velcroed vertically to the side of the cab, which makes it easy to take the whole PC in and out if needed.

+1 on velcro. I picked up a giant role of industrial strength velcro (the kind you can stick bumpers to sailboats with). Have yet to use it all, but that stuff is great for all sorts of things.

[paigeoliver]

I used to decase them, but after seeing the that most modern arcade games running PC hardware tend to leave them in the case I started doing that too.

[Malenko]

meow!


case wouldnt fit, so it got gutted

[krick]

case wouldnt fit, so it got gutted

I wish I had a cabinet where the PC was accessible from the front.  I have to turn mine around to get to the PC.  It's a pain on carpet.  I need to get rolling casters or something.

I remember seeing a  factory cabinet one time with a tall thin door in the front that opened to a compartment that would house a tower case (or a desktop PC on its side) nicely.

[drventure]

@Malenko

Nicely done! Great idea making things front accessible.

[Malenko]

@Malenko

Nicely done! Great idea making things front accessible.

it was Dynamo's idea

[kahlid74]

I use a computer case because I like the ability to simply unplug devices and take the whole computer out.  Makes for upgrading computer hardware and moving a whole lot simpler.

[Ravenger]

I wish I had a cabinet where the PC was accessible from the front.  I have to turn mine around to get to the PC.  It's a pain on carpet.  I need to get rolling casters or something.

My cab only opens at the back, and it's only the top half of the back panel that comes off, which made it awkward to get a cased PC in there, which is why I went for a vertically mounted de-cased PC.

It's got two large fixed rollers at the back, so tilting it backwards slightly makes it very easy to move around just by rolling. It's got a couple of hand-holds cut out for doing exactly that. The good thing about doing it that way is that it doesn't move around in normal use, as would be the case if it had rollers on all 4 corners.

[mcseforsale]

Yaksplat had this awesome Belgin-style vandal switch on one of his build threads, so I stole the idea and have it wired to the little sub-board on a Dell GX-260.  I put the switch in the front panel of the arcade to the left of the coin door and you can't see it unless the entire arcade is on. 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8698/ele-374/Blue_Illuminated_Bulgin_Style_Latching_Vandal_Switch_-_22mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Ring_Illumination.html



I soldered/shrink-wrapped the pins on the switch itself, but I purchased correct 4 pin-ribbon cable to a jack on the outside of the PC.  I'll get pics of it eventually.  Being a Dell, it was a giant PITA...especially because I needed the small sub-board on the front of the case for some of the USB ports...

AJ

Add me to the tally for keeping it in the case.  Of course I have to reach in and hit the Power button on the PC when I want to boot-up the Cab, so I may not count. 

[boardjunkie]

I left mine cased for half a day. With the back door on it got so got it almost killed the PC. I suppose if you vent the fans straight to vent openings in the top/back of the cab it would be ok. Just leaving the thing cased inside the cab can cause heat issues like I had because the case keeps recycling its own warm exhaust air and it gets warmer and warmer with time.

I decased the PC and installed 2 fans for HDD/overall cooling, and butted the pwr supply fan up to a back door vent. It runs a ton cooler now.

[mcseforsale]

I've only had one heat related reboot.  It was about 97 out that day and the garage was HOT.  Otherwise, the vents are doing their job.  2' soffet vents on the door and 3" ones on the top.  Whenever I open the door, the inside temp is only a few degrees above ambient. 

But, I'm runnin a P4 3.2GHz with a gig of ram.



AJ

I left mine cased for half a day. With the back door on it got so got it almost killed the PC. I suppose if you vent the fans straight to vent openings in the top/back of the cab it would be ok. Just leaving the thing cased inside the cab can cause heat issues like I had because the case keeps recycling its own warm exhaust air and it gets warmer and warmer with time.

I decased the PC and installed 2 fans for HDD/overall cooling, and butted the pwr supply fan up to a back door vent. It runs a ton cooler now.

[krick]

Here's the back of an Offroad Thunder cabinet with the back door off.  You can see that the case is mounted vertically.  The case has fans on the bottom that suck in cooler air which moves across the components and exits the top through vents above the PCI slots (hard to see in this picture) or through the power supply exhaust.  Presumably, the hot air then rises and exits through vents in the top of the cabinet.  I assume that there's some kind of vent or vents near the bottom of the cabinet to bring in cool air from the outside.