Scratch - Marvel v Capcom: Revolution - Complete with tour video

[PL1]

Thanks, I hit up the 12GB pack that should do the trick 

Be sure to check out the Arkanoid, Breakout/Breakout 2, Space Balls, and Young Frankenstein tables under VP Original Tables.


Scott

[griffindodd]

Made a lot of progress with software configuration today, I am very happy with the results.

First out the gate, Hyperspin auto-rotating on launch working great, a huge thanks again to DNA Dan for all his help with this.


Second a sneak peak of the layout in pinball mode, I can't tell you how happy I am with the way the whole layout comes together for pinball, can't wait to play a little TAF on this

[TopJimmyCooks]

 

The halftone dots in the graphics and bezel were an inspired idea.  I'd get rid of the street fighter and make it a pinball themed cab- its so well suited for VP/FP.  Good work.

[rablack97]

Man that looks good great job.....

Looking at it with the full effect....too late now...but some ambient lighting behind yor graphics would have been nice...to show them off....you may be able to see them well in person, the graphics area looks dark and your art work it so good would be cool to se it lit up around your screens....

[griffindodd]

Thanks guys I'm really happy with it. You can see the art well enough when you are standing in front of the machine, it was a delicate balance of having it visible but not detracting too much from the playfield. Unfortunately because of the way it is built backlighting wouldn't be possible, but that's ok it worked out pretty well.

[DaOld Man]

 

[griffindodd]

and of course, I had to take a look at TAF just to make sure it erm..... you know.... worked ok 

[mcseforsale]

Just wow.  This is one of the most inspired designs I've seen around here.  Great fusion of software, monkey-motion, and simplicity.

amazin.

AJ

[TheShaner]

Looking awesome Griff. 

I am surprised at how much I like the pinball layout.  I have two more projects waiting in the wings, and one of them is a full sized Virtual Pinball machine... I had planned on doing it second, but I might have to bump it up in priority now.  My cyclone is lonely.

What's left on your cab?

[griffindodd]

Thanks for the kind words guys 

Still quite a bit to do,
- the sides, slot, laminate and art of course,
- relocate the IR receiver for the LED controller so I can use the remote control to change the colors, brightness and behaviour of the cab ambient lighting
- Still struggling with cable binding sometimes on rotation
- rear power jack, internal power box
- rear lower panel access hatch
- Computer access door
- Computer support bracket
- Diamond plate for footrests

and of course the controller still needs to be built and configured.

So lots more to come

[TopJimmyCooks]

To be clear, No disrespect intended on your artwork, just wanted to emphasize how well the pinball layout gelled.  I like it and everything is well integrated - rock on. 

[griffindodd]

To be clear, No disrespect intended on your artwork, just wanted to emphasize how well the pinball layout gelled.  I like it and everything is well integrated - rock on.

Yeah TJC no problem man, I appreciate everyone following the build and taking the time to comment

[griffindodd]

Well today sucks, I'm sick as a hell, fever aching and generally useless. Stayed home from work and decided to occupy myself with a little cabinet wiring which probably wasn't a good idea, but at least I have this to show for it.

Programmable messaging fans, I only programmed the one on the right for the test, but they are kinda fun...

[rablack97]

Are you putting those up there?

Wont they get covered up by your marquee graphic?

Uhhh, your making it look like the robot off of SHORT CIRCUIT........ You might have too much going on up there man, you got marquee, plus marquee fan, plus your wife's clay work......

Will have to see the end result to praise this one...........

[griffindodd]

LOL "Innnnnnnput" it does look like Johnny 5.

But the idea here is that just the red messaging and blue circles would show through a cutout in the artwork. At that spot in the marquee artwork there would be some kind of circular design, maybe a ball of lightening something like that.

[griffindodd]

Well I haven't been able to do much these past few days with being under the weather, so I have just been doing software config/setup and a bit of desktop art for the default background of the two screens.



I had to make the design so it cropped properly on all screens and didn't look out of place rotated, I think it turned out alright, goes with the rest of the theme.

[rablack97]

I hate it.....

I hate you for being so (trousers messed) good at photoshop and graphics......

The whole thing blows, and (trousers messed) start over........

(cigarette) (night-Night)

[griffindodd]

I did a little more work on bits and pieces last night, feeling better so I got back in the garage and installed the access panel and power pieces.



I used a 14"x14" drywall access hatch for the lower part of the cab, no need for anything fancy there as it's just for access to power plugs, general wiring and the subwoofer, hopefully I won't need to go in there very often. Still have to paint the hatch and wire up the power socket, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the light on the power switch?

[PL1]

does anyone have a wiring diagram for the light on the power switch?

If it's one of these illuminated switches with a fuse holder . . .




. . . it hooks up like this.  NL is the neon lamp in the switch.  Pin 2 is ground. (not shown)



Scott

[BadMouth]

Cheap insurance to make sure that it's wired correctly:

(around $5 at Walmart or Lowes)

[griffindodd]

Thanks guys, that should do the trick.

[mcseforsale]

One of my favorites right there.  It has a permanent place in my tool belt.  Front pocket!

AJ

Cheap insurance to make sure that it's wired correctly:

(around $5 at Walmart or Lowes)

[griffindodd]

Just grabbed one with Amazon Prime for $7, I think pretty much all of this cab has been built with stuff from Amazon, I love prime as I get everything dropped on my doorstep in 48 hrs, which is a big deal when you have a 7 month old, no time for hours of wandering around the hardware store. This way I get to spend my free time on my cab not shopping for parts

[griffindodd]

Decided to go with a smoked/bronzed polycarb fold down hatch on the back of the cab for the computer access panel, it will show off the lighting and dressing of the motherboard nicely and is easy enough to work with. If I have space on the door I'm going to incorporate one of those fancy message/temp readout fans into it rather than use them in the marquee. They look fun up there but I don't like the flickering of the light, too close to my face when I am playing games.

I'm struggling relocating the IR receiver bulb on the LED controller, I put it on the end of bell wire but I think the resistance was too high for it to work, so I have to desolder it and try again with some finer threaded wire. I have to house the IR receiver in the panel between the speaker panel and the top screen bezel, that way I can use the remote to control the behaviour of the cab's ambient lighting.

[PL1]

If I have space on the door I'm going to incorporate one of those fancy message/temp readout fans into it rather than use them in the marquee. They look fun up there but I don't like the flickering of the light, too close to my face when I am playing games.

Wise decision.

I'm sure Rodney will have his trousers messed again in no time flat.   


Scott

[sudopinion]

What an amazing build.  It looks like the monitor-rotation hits kinda hard when it stops though.

[griffindodd]

 

What an amazing build.  It looks like the monitor-rotation hits kinda hard when it stops though.

Thanks. No it's really quite light, the microphone on my phone makes it sound like it's slamming into a wall but it's pretty gentle, plus I have industrial micro switches at the stop point now.

[griffindodd]

Looks like I need a little help here.



Although my switch looks exactly like the one you posted Scott, the pinouts on the back are different in layout, I've taken a picture and labeled the pins to make it easier for anyone to explain how I should wire this configuration.

Many thanks for any help.

[dekar24k]

THIS is one of the most impressive cabs I've ever seen. God-like!!! 

[werdna]

Looks like I need a little help here.

Although my switch looks exactly like the one you posted Scott, the pinouts on the back are different in layout, I've taken a picture and labeled the pins to make it easier for anyone to explain how I should wire this configuration.

Many thanks for any help.

I'm not an electrician.  If you are at all uncomfortable with mains wiring please seek one out and ignore everything below



I can't find a diagram of that switch online.  My amateur swag is:

A - ground
b - neutral
c - hot

I believe that C has the fuse inline with it.  You can see the connecting bar go to one side of the fuse area and the tab is on the other.
Test these out with a multimeter on the resistance/continuity setting and NOTHING ELSE CONNECTED.

Those 3 tabs should connect each to their own pin on the IEC connector.
Next, pull the fuse and see if it disconnects C from the IEC pin.

Next you have 4 more tabs.  Based on the previous post with a similar switch you have connections for the neon light and the switch.

Again, use your meter on resistance and test it out.  I'm guessing that F and G are the 2 sides of the switch.  Meter from F to the other tabs and you should get connectivity to one and only one other tab or none at all.  If none at all, flip the switch and test them all again.  Should be one and only one.

My guess is that doing the previously mentioned step will yield that F connects to G and only when the switch is on.

Based on the really small leads you can see on D and E I suspect this is the lamp.  Back to the multimeter.  D should connect to E with some resistance or nothing at all.  E should connect to D with some resistance.  Neither D or E should show continuity to any other of the tabs.  Depending on the type of lamp used you might not get any resistance or continuity between D and E.  As long as they don't show connectivity to anything else we can safely proceed with careful testing.

IF all of the above proves itself out in your testing I think the wiring you want is:

A - connect to the ground in your in-cab wiring setup.

C - connect to F

G - connect to E and your in-cab "hot" wire in parallel.

B - connect to D and your in-cab "neutral wire in parallel.

[griffindodd]

Thanks for this but I think my brain just exploded, I'm sure it's simpler than it sounds when written down but 

I'm not an electrician.  If you are at all uncomfortable with mains wiring please seek one out and ignore everything below

I can't find a diagram of that switch online.  My amateur swag is:

A - ground
b - neutral
c - hot

I believe that C has the fuse inline with it.  You can see the connecting bar go to one side of the fuse area and the tab is on the other. Test these out with a multimeter on the resistance/continuity setting and NOTHING ELSE CONNECTED.

Those 3 tabs should connect each to their own pin on the IEC connector.
Next, pull the fuse and see if it disconnects C from the IEC pin.

Next you have 4 more tabs.  Based on the previous post with a similar switch you have connections for the neon light and the switch.

Again, use your meter on resistance and test it out.  I'm guessing that F and G are the 2 sides of the switch.  Meter from F to the other tabs and you should get connectivity to one and only one other tab or none at all.  If none at all, flip the switch and test them all again.  Should be one and only one.

My guess is that doing the previously mentioned step will yield that F connects to G and only when the switch is on.

Based on the really small leads you can see on D and E I suspect this is the lamp.  Back to the multimeter.  D should connect to E with some resistance or nothing at all.  E should connect to D with some resistance.  Neither D or E should show continuity to any other of the tabs.  Depending on the type of lamp used you might not get any resistance or continuity between D and E.  As long as they don't show connectivity to anything else we can safely proceed with careful testing.

IF all of the above proves itself out in your testing I think the wiring you want is:

A - connect to the ground in your in-cab wiring setup.

C - connect to F

G - connect to E and your in-cab "hot" wire in parallel.

B - connect to D and your in-cab "neutral wire in parallel.

[griffindodd]

Today I decided to ditch the idea of the remote control RGB lighting in the cab. Relocating the IR sensor proved to be virually impossible and in the end I managed to snap one of the legs clean off it 

Not a big deal, the main RGB box still works well enough and starts up in color cycling mode, so I am going to use that on the motherboard base for the computer 'night club' in the back of the cab, it will color cycle on it's own and look nice and flashy. The LEDs in the marquee just need to be static white so I'll wire those manually, I was planning to do this anyway as I didn't want the backlights color cycling the marquee every time I started up the cab.

As the cab is raised off the floor slightly by the wheels I think I will put a static red stip of lights in the bottom to give that nice ground FX look.

This weekend I plan to cut the sides and get the hardware to hang them on the cab.

[mcseforsale]

As the cab is raised off the floor slightly by the wheels I think I will put a static red stip of lights in the bottom to give that nice ground FX look.

That's really a nice effect.  I think when I put mine on carpet, I'll need to raise it a little.  But, on my paint-stained garage floor, it looks really cool.  I used 15" CCFLs on mine.  I also put a 5 LED 45 degree light cascading down on the coin door:



AJ

[griffindodd]

@Werdna.

Wrapping my head around this, I think I am following you...

A - Ground - pass directly on to cab ground connection in socket.
B - neutral - via D on to cab neutral connection in socket.
C - Live - to F
G - Live - via E on to cab live connection in socket.


INPUT                                                            SOCKET
------------------------------------------------------------------
A GRD ---------------------------------------------- GRD

B NEU -------------------------------- D ----------- NEU
                                                     |
C LIV ----------F                           LAMP
                      \                             |
                      G--------------------- E ------------ LIV

[BadMouth]

I have the same switch and used properly colored wires.
I can post a picture of it later tonight if needed.

[griffindodd]

I have the same switch and used properly colored wires.
I can post a picture of it later tonight if needed.

That would be a big help thanks

[werdna]

@Werdna.

Wrapping my head around this, I think I am following you...

A - Ground - pass directly on to cab ground connection in socket.
B - neutral - via D on to cab neutral connection in socket.
C - Live - to F
G - Live - via E on to cab live connection in socket.


INPUT                                                            SOCKET
------------------------------------------------------------------
A GRD ---------------------------------------------- GRD

B NEU -------------------------------- D ----------- NEU
                                                     |
C LIV ----------F                           LAMP
                      \                             |
                      G--------------------- E ------------ LIV

Yep.

That is what I think.  But I'd meter it out first and make sure the data matches my assumptions.

-Andrew

[griffindodd]

Thanks Andrew.

I have a few more bits and pieces on the way, a 10 outlet smartstrip to power everything on and off, another 4GB stick of ram to take the system up to 8GB as it x64. I was having problems getting future pinball tables to load and think it is due to the onboard graphics sharing system RAM, so decided to bump it.

Bronzed acrylic is on the way for the computer bay door, so just some general internal wiring and cleanup to do before moving on to the sides at the weekend.

I made a promise to myself that I wouldn't start building the controller until the rest of the cab is built and configured.

[BadMouth]

Heat shrink is overkill, but I'm paranoid about household current.

Switch is on the bottom.
I removed the light bulb.

Mine didn't include a fuse.
I'm using 10A 250v 5x20mm

Sorry, no pics of the wiring on the outlet side.
The surface mount box that I used snaps over a base and can't easily be removed.

[griffindodd]

Thanks, that looks much simpler,

A to socket ground
B to D
C to E
F to socket neutral
G to socket line