Some questions about control panels

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I received the approval from my father, and we're going to build a control panel instead of buying a joystick controller for our MAME cabinet. Anyhow, I have a few questions to ask about building a control panel for a MAME cabinet.

1). Are there any starter kits available for a 2-player control panel with a Track-Ball for people that are newer to electric soldering(my father does have some skill in electric soldering, but I wanted to know if there was any kits available)?

2). We'll be using a PC Monitor and Hardrive, we'll be making a control panel  that can connect to the PC via USB. So for kit that includes everything needed to make a 2-Player control panel with a USB cord, what's the best online store I can buy them from?

3). I'll be including a variety of arcade games from different genre's, that will require different Joystick types(such as Pac-Man, Street Fighter II: The World Warrior, etc). So if there are any starter kits available that include a joystick that can be converted from 4-way to 8-way control, where I can I buy it online from?

4). If there are no starter kits available, what brand of parts do you recommend for a 4-Way/8-Way Joystick, Buttons, Trackball?

5). If I choose to start from scratch instead, what's the best online store to buy everything I need to solder my own control panel?

6). Besides the 4-Way/8-Way Joystick, Buttons, and a Trackball, what other tools will I need?

If these questions have already been answered elsewhere, I apologize.

[P-chan]

If you browse the forums, you will find lots of ideas.

1st off, you shouldn't really need to solder to build a control panel.  All the microswitches for joysticks/buttons will accept a .187 female quick disconnect crimp connector which can be bought pretty cheaply.  Buttons are a couple dollars each, and joysticks vary pretty widely, from $15 or less to over $60.

You will need some sort of keyboard encoder, that connects to the joystick and buttons, and converts their switch input into keyboard presses.  Then you just tell MAME to recognize those keyboard presses as whatever you want.  You might set Joystick UP to be the up arrow on the keyboard, and set MAME to recognize that. 

Trackballs require a different encoder or you can hack together your own encoder by ripping apart a computer mouse with a ball in it....

Start here at the wiki : http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Main_Page

Good tips on control panel building and layout : www.slagcoin.com

As far as an online store, there is a Vendors link in the Wiki.  Personally, I've seen a lot of people buy from Ultimarc.com and groovygamegear.com although there are many other quality vendors.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for helping me out.  I forgot about those small details about assigning movement of the Joystick onto MAME. I'm also glad to hear that I don't need to do any soldering, and that it just requires a quick disconnect crimp connectors. I'll also check out those links for more information for making a control panel.

[mavsprophecy]

I would recommend checking out ultimarc.com, they sell a minipac which is perfect for a 2 player CP.  It can even have a harness with all the wires ready to go.  Saves a lot of hassle.

[Gatt]

Several sites have encoders already bundled with their trackballs,  some even already attached and wired to the trackball.  Just email whereever you're going to buy from and ask if it's already included,  sites involved in this hobby are very friendly!

[drventure]

+1 on ultimarc

Also, you might check Happ, Paradise Arcade, Lizard Lick, etc

Divemaster is on this board and he runs http://arcadeemulator.net/

Also, check the WIKI (see at the top of this page). Lots of good info there.

[darthpaul]

Don't forget GrovyGameGear.com but scratch Lizard Lick.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Don't forget GrovyGameGear.com but scratch Lizard Lick.

I'll check out GroovyGameGear.com as well. As for Lizard Lick I'm guessing that to "Scratch" Lizard Lick means to stay away from that online store due to its inactivity and back-orders?

[mavsprophecy]

Stay away from lizard lick. They are not taking new orders and their entire website is down.  Groovy Game Gear is really awesome though.

[GregD]

Can't beat the trackball selection at twistedquarter.

[kalars123]

For future reference arcadeseeker I would reccomend only shoping at these 3 places

Ultrimarc
http://www.ultimarc.com/

Groovy Game Gear
http://groovygamegear.com

Paradise Arcade
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com

All 3 are active in the community, have outstanding customer service and to the best of my knowledge have never had a single negative review, I have ordered from all 3 of them and am one happy customer and will shop with all 3 of them again.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

For future reference arcadeseeker I would reccomend only shoping at these 3 places

Ultrimarc
http://www.ultimarc.com/

Groovy Game Gear
http://groovygamegear.com

Paradise Arcade
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com

All 3 are active in the community, have outstanding customer service and to the best of my knowledge have never had a single negative review, I have ordered from all 3 of them and am one happy customer and will shop with all 3 of them again.

Thank you for your suggestions, I'll make sure I buy from only those stores. Are parts from other online stores compatible with the Mini-Pac? Me and my father chose the Mini-Pac for the interface, because of the fact that the board comes pre-soldered, with USB connection already soldered on as well(plus, my mother is worried that making our own interface would be above our skill level).  

[Mysterioii]

Yep, everything all works together... for the most part...     Buttons look a little different, some switches are louder or softer etc., but at the end of they day they're just making and breaking contact and either pass current or they don't.  It'll be fine.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for for your assurance. That answers my question about the control panel. I've been putting together all of the advice that I have received on this forum, and me and my father going to sit down and finalize everything(thanks to Uncle Monkey for this advice). Whether It'll be next week or at the end of May to early June, at least we'll have everything planned out.

[CheffoJeffo]

For future reference arcadeseeker I would reccomend only shoping at these 3 places

Ultrimarc
http://www.ultimarc.com/

Groovy Game Gear
http://groovygamegear.com

Paradise Arcade
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com

All 3 are active in the community, have outstanding customer service and to the best of my knowledge have never had a single negative review, I have ordered from all 3 of them and am one happy customer and will shop with all 3 of them again.

While I agree that all 3 listed here are great vendors, the "only shop here" line sticks in my craw ... there are lots of great vendors who should not be dismissed out of hand by people who have never dealt with them.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Vendors

[Vigo]

Here are my personal recommendations. Just keep in mind that 10 people will give you 10 recommendations. I thought this might help though. In my opinion, to get the best deals and products for your exact needs, you usually need to shop around among trusted sellers. The reason that there isn't too many package deals out there is because people's taste and needs vary so much.

For arcade encoders (The device which connects your arcade controls to your computer through USB), I would just like to throw the one I sell out there as well. You can click the picture on the bottom of my posts. The plus side is it comes with all the wires needed. The downside is it is a 1 player encoder, so you would need to buy 2. However, even two of my encoder is still the cheapest option. The second cheapest option is the Xin-Mo encoder that Paradise Arcade sells. That also comes with wiring. I personally always recommend the I-Pac encoder from Ultimarc. It is an excellent encoder. The wiring is separate, but it is very easy to work with.

For Trackballs, I haven't bought many, but I agree with Greg that Twistedquarter.com has the best selection. You will need to buy a trackball encoder though. I recommend the Opti-Wiz from Groovy Game Gear. The price is right.

Since you mentioned you wanted a 4/8 way switchable joystick, start first checking out the Omni2 from groovy game gear, it is pretty well liked. If opening your panel up to switch between 4 and 8 way every time you want to change modes is not your thing, then go with the Mag-stick or Mag stick plus from Ultimarc. You just need to lift up on the stick and rotate it to switch between 4 and 8 way modes. If you will be playing modern games on your machine, there is also the U360. It is a $60 joystick, but a lot of people with higher end machines swear by them. It is analog so it detects the exact position the joystick is in.

Also, check out what Divemaster127 sells:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0

He resells a lot of things at a great price. We don't buy from Happ around here, even if they are the biggest arcade part manufacturer...they put the screws to customers with horrible shipping. Divemaster buys in bulk and you can get a good deal through him. He also resells Ultimarc goods.

And to agree with Cheffo, there plenty more vendors out there. Things like artwork printing isn't even covered by those 3 stores. If you are unsure about a product from a different seller, you can check the reviews on the wiki or even ask here if other people have tried that product. 

[PL1]

Are parts from other online stores compatible with the Mini-Pac?

Mini-PAC Opti With Harness and USB cable is great and available with 6mm(1/4") or 4.8mm(.187") quick disconnects.

Also, the U-Trak trackball is wired to plug directly into the Mini-Pac Opti harness + easiest to mount IMHO.

Most joysticks/buttons will be .187's, just verify before ordering.

The only obscure thing to remember as you plan your setup is that if you plan on adding a spinner, avoid putting it on the z-axis (scroll wheel) due to the way windows handles that input.  (3 or 4 steps to each optical transition on z-axis, compared to 1 to each transition on either the x-axis or y-axis--other threads explain this far better than I can)

I used the TurboTwist 2 + interface board from GGG on the x-axis, and there is no conflict between using the Mini-Pac and TT2 encoders simultaneously.

Several products to consider:
TurboTwist 2 (get an upgraded knob, the ESC and a steering wheel) - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268

Arcade Prime Pushbuttons w. Standard Soft Touch Switches - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=347

SUPER 4-way™ Precision True Restrictor - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=310

Happ Super Joystick - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=285

Good luck.


Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I thank you all for your advice. I'll be offline for awhile studying for the project, so see you all again soon!

[kalars123]

While I agree that all 3 listed here are great vendors, the "only shop here" line sticks in my craw ... there are lots of great vendors who should not be dismissed out of hand by people who have never dealt with them.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Vendors

Cheffo, Vigo I apologize much respect to the both of you, I did not mean to insult anyone by saying to shop just at the "big 3" I simply meant it as these guys/gals are trusted active members of the community and you can't go wrong with them is all

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Are parts from other online stores compatible with the Mini-Pac?

Mini-PAC Opti With Harness and USB cable is great and available with 6mm(1/4") or 4.8mm(.187") quick disconnects.

Also, the U-Trak trackball is wired to plug directly into the Mini-Pac Opti harness + easiest to mount IMHO.

Most joysticks/buttons will be .187's, just verify before ordering.

The only obscure thing to remember as you plan your setup is that if you plan on adding a spinner, avoid putting it on the z-axis (scroll wheel) due to the way windows handles that input.  (3 or 4 steps to each optical transition on z-axis, compared to 1 to each transition on either the x-axis or y-axis--other threads explain this far better than I can)

I used the TurboTwist 2 + interface board from GGG on the x-axis, and there is no conflict between using the Mini-Pac and TT2 encoders simultaneously.

Several products to consider:
TurboTwist 2 (get an upgraded knob, the ESC and a steering wheel) - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268

Arcade Prime Pushbuttons w. Standard Soft Touch Switches - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=347

SUPER 4-way™ Precision True Restrictor - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=310

Happ Super Joystick - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=285

Good luck.


Scott

Thank you for your advice, I'll make sure I check those out.

While I agree that all 3 listed here are great vendors, the "only shop here" line sticks in my craw ... there are lots of great vendors who should not be dismissed out of hand by people who have never dealt with them.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Vendors

Thank you for the link, I'll check out those stores as well. I apologize I didn't notice it the first time around.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Mini-PAC Opti With Harness and USB cable is great and available with 6mm(1/4") or 4.8mm(.187") quick disconnects.

Also, the U-Trak trackball is wired to plug directly into the Mini-Pac Opti harness + easiest to mount IMHO.

Most joysticks/buttons will be .187's, just verify before ordering.

I used the TurboTwist 2 + interface board from GGG on the x-axis, and there is no conflict between using the Mini-Pac and TT2 encoders simultaneously.

I'm actually considering buying the U-Trak for my control panel. To avoid making another question thread, I'll just post this question here instead. How do I hook the Mini-Pac to the Groovy Game Gear interface? Do I attach them both together using a wiring harness? Also, would the control interfaces be compatible with an HP Compaq D5000 running under Windows XP?

[darthpaul]

Since you want the 4way\8way joystick, think about automating them using servos and DaOld Mans Joychoose plugin. With the joysticks being automated, there is no more guessing which game is 4 or 8 way. Take a look at my write-up,
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117710.0 I'm going to add some pictures and maybe a short video soon. 

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Okay, thank you for the link. I'll make sure to check it out.

[PL1]

How do I hook the Mini-Pac to the Groovy Game Gear interface? Do I attach them both together using a wiring harness? Also, would the control interfaces be compatible with an HP Compaq D5000 running under Windows XP?

The Mini-Pac and the GGG TT2 Interface are both USB plug and play. They will both work fine in XP.

I use an unpowered USB hub that both of them connect to. It also provides power for the LEDs in the admin buttons and the U-Trak. (Lighting circuit described here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=119562.msg1270434#msg1270434 )

.                Computer
.                        |
------------USB Hub-----------------------------
|                        |                                           |
--Minipac--       TT2 Board and spinner           Power for LEDs in buttons and LEDs in U-Trak
|              |
U-Trak      Admin buttons, mouse buttons, player buttons, joysticks

Hope this helps,

Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for the help, it really explain things well. I'm new to soldering so I'm not sure if I'll use LED Joysticks and Buttons yet, but I could always work on it in the future.   

[PL1]

Thank you for the help, it really explain things well. I'm new to soldering so I'm not sure if I'll use LED Joysticks and Buttons yet, but I could always work on it in the future.  

No need to solder for the LED buttons. Most use .250" quick disconnects. If you look at this picture from GGG, you can see (front left to right) the microswitch, the LED+holder, and the LED socket.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=342
Protip: If you wire all the sockets the same and some of the LEDs don't work, unplug the LED Holder and turn it 180 degrees.

Here's a head to head comparison of Paradise, GGG and Ultimarc LED buttons.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=112752.msg1205236#msg1205236

The main reason I designed the custom trackball lighting circuit was so that I could keep my total current draw for buttons and trackball below 100 mA.  Ultimarc has an RGB lighting module, but the specs I saw (don't remember where) showed that it drew too much current.
http://www.ultimarc.com/trackball.html (2/3rds down the page)

Another option is here
http://nicemite.com/LightmiteTB/LightmiteTB.htm


Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

No need to solder for the LED buttons. Most use .250" quick disconnects. If you look at this picture from GGG, you can see (front left to right) the microswitch, the LED+holder, and the LED socket.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=342
Protip: If you wire all the sockets the same and some of the LEDs don't work, unplug the LED Holder and turn it 180 degrees.

Here's a head to head comparison of Paradise, GGG and Ultimarc LED buttons.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=112752.msg1205236#msg1205236


Scott

Thank you for the link to the comparison thread, along with the LED Pushbuttons. Does the LED Push Buttons from Groovy Game Gear require .250" quick disconnects? If they require .250" quick disconnects, where can I buy them from? Also, for LED Joysticks, does that require soldering? If it doesn't, does the LED Joystick stay lighted up the whole time, or do the LED's flash when a movement with the joystick is performed?

[DaOld Man]

you can find quick disconnects at many places, but a familiar and close to you place might be autozone or another auto parts place.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I have quite a few auto parts stores in my area, so I'll look for quick disconnects when I reach that stage in my project. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

[kahlid74]

I have quite a few auto parts stores in my area, so I'll look for quick disconnects when I reach that stage in my project. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Buy them online.  You'll get a stack of 100-500 for pennies to the dollar versus buying them in a store.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/Terminals-and-Disconnects/Disconnects/disconnect-f-22-18awg-250-tab-red-21-pk

There was someone who posted a link to these for an even cheaper price.  Trying doing a search to find it.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for the link, that's a really good deal. I'll do a search for the cheaper set on this forum as well.

[P-chan]

Thank you for the link, that's a really good deal. I'll do a search for the cheaper set on this forum as well.

Make sure you check the size of your microswitch tabs before you buy a .25" quick disconnect.  A lot of switches have .187" tabs.  The larger ones will still fit of course, but the .187" are a better fit.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for the warning, P-Chan. Is this a good choice for female .187 quick disconnects?

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=211

If it is, will it work with Joysticks and Push Buttons from other online stores? Do I need to purchase wiring harnesses to hook it up with the Joystick and Push Buttons, along with .187 quick disconnects?

[Mysterioii]

Thank you for the warning, P-Chan. Is this a good choice for female .187 quick disconnects?

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=211

Depends on what his shipping is I guess.  Doesn't look bad.  If you were ordering other stuff from him and could just throw it in with your order then sure.  Here's an ebay link for 100 for $8 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-FEMALE-SPADES-QUICK-DISCONNECTS-WIRE-CONNECTORS-22-18-GAUGE-187-3-16-/380383905123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5890a5c563#ht_2954wt_1384

it is, will it work with Joysticks and Push Buttons from other online stores? Do I need to purchase wiring harnesses to hook it up with the Joystick and Push Buttons, along with .187 quick disconnects?

As long as your joysticks and push buttons have microswitches that use .187 spade terminals then these will work.  If you get any that use .25 terminals then you'd need a pack of those too.  I dunno about the wiring harnesses, I guess that depends on whichever interface boards you're using in your setup.  Me personally, I'd just use some wire and a crimp tool and do it all myself (unless I saw a harness for really cheap that I thought would save me an assload of time....)

[PL1]

Also, for LED Joysticks, does that require soldering? If it doesn't, does the LED Joystick stay lighted up the whole time, or do the LED's flash when a movement with the joystick is performed?

This thread may give you some ideas/products/sources for LED joysticks.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114677.0;all

Does it stay lighted the whole time? - How do you want it to work?
Lighted the whole time = easy.  Flash when moved = not so easy.

Does it require soldering? - Which joystick are we talking about?
Paradise Arcade has pre-wired LED sticks here: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/119-paradise-led-bubble-top-arcade-joystick.html

Joystick handles can turn around and twist up the LED wires unless you use something like these:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/joysticks-trackball/376-ultimate-arcade-slip-ring.html
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382

Great option for connecting 22-26 gauge wires or component leads without soldering: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103505

Search threads here in the forums and look around vendor websites. See if you find something that looks good.  Some people like bubble balltops, some like translucent battops.  What works visually with your planned setup? Once you know the basic look/style you want, you can ask the right questions.

Scott

P.S. P-Chan may be thinking about crimps for switches, rather than for LED sockets.  The side by side photos clearly indicate that the Paradise Arcade, GGG, and Ultimarc LED sockets all use the same size .25" disconnects. (I have the Paradise Arcade version.)

You can save yourself LOTS of time and effort by using these prefab .250" daisy chains (one red, one black) to power your LEDs: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/jamma-harnesses/406-30-connection-black-daisy-chain-110.html and http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/jamma-harnesses/407-30-connection-black-daisy-chain-110.html

[GregD]

What joysticks, buttons, trackball, and spinner are you getting?  Knowing all of that information will help us recommend wiring and an encoder.  Are you looking to purchase everything from one website?  This is your first panel.  I would recommend that you keep it simple and scrap the LED lighting until you are a bit more knowledgeable.  It can get confusing when determining how to power them, whether they need resistors, do you need RGB drives, etc...

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for the tip about skipping LED's, GregD. Here are the Joysticks, Buttons, and TrackBall that I'll be using:

2 Omni II 4/8 Way Joysitck with Economy Black bat Tops,along with Smooth Joy Switches(from Groovy Game Gear)
6 Red Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
6 Blue Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
1 U-Trak(Pearl White), from Ultimarc
1 Optional Trim Bezel for U-Track(from Ultimarc)
1 Player 1 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear)
1 Player 2 Push Button(From Groovy Game Gear)
4 Black Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc

The extra 4 Black Classic Push Buttons are for them to be assigned as admin buttons. I'm open to any suggestions, or modifications to the controls I chose that might need to be done.

[GregD]

Thank you for the tip about skipping LED's, GregD. Here are the Joysticks, Buttons, and TrackBall that I'll be using:

2 Omni II 4/8 Way Joysitck with Economy Black bat Tops,along with Smooth Joy Switches(from Groovy Game Gear)
6 Red Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
6 Blue Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
1 Optional Trim Bezel for U-Track(from Ultimarc)
1 Player 1 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear)
1 Player 2 Push Button(From Groovy Game Gear)
4 Black Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc

The extra 4 Black Classic Push Buttons are for them to be assigned as admin buttons. I'm open to any suggestions, or modifications to the controls I chose that might need to be done.

Are you getting a U-Track from Ultimarc?  It isn't listed but you have the bezel listed.  That trackball can be purchased with a USB option.  Are you going that route?  I ask this because what you get for a keyboard encoder will be affected by it. All of the joysticks and buttons listed take .187 terminals.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Sorry, I forgot about the U-Trak. Yeah, I'll be buying the U-Trak with the USB interface as well. I plan on going an all-USB route. Is the .187 terminal/spade another term for what the .187 female disconnects hooks up to via the Joysticks and Buttons I chose? I'm sorry, I'm just new to the techincal terms(but I do now know what a .187 female disconnect is). I included the U-Trak on the list.

[GregD]

If you are getting a U-track with USB then you don't have to worry about getting an encoder with an optical input.  You can get an Ipac, KeyWiz, or minipac to name the most popular.  If you want the wiring harness then get the minipac with wiring harness and then you won't have to worry about the disconnects.  It will take some work to get the wiring to look neat with a minipac but it is the quickest solution.

[Mysterioii]

Well, what I referred to as a spade terminal actually isn't...  I was referring to the male flat tabs on the microswitches that you'll be slipping the female disconnects onto.  If it were a crimp connector it would just be called a male disconnect but I'm not sure if that's what it's technically called when referring to the tabs on the microswitches.

[PL1]

The extra 4 Black Classic Push Buttons are for them to be assigned as admin buttons. I'm open to any suggestions, or modifications to the controls I chose that might need to be done.

Two questions:

1. How do you plan to label the admin buttons?

2. What admin buttons are you planning on having?

One good way to label the admin buttons is using inserts in translucent buttons.
You can use them unlit for now and add the wiring to light them later, if you want.
Since you're placing an order with GGG, consider the Spectralite line. http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=343 or the Chromalite line, if you like the chrome collar look.

The attached inserts work great in Paradise Arcade's buttons, and might work for GGG's as well.
The quarters are dark because I was printing on transparency material for use in LED buttons.
(If anyone wants my original PowerPoint file so you can adjust size/contrast/brightness, drop me a PM with your e-mail.)

My modular panel (rough diagram attached) uses the following admin buttons:
P1Coin
P1 Start
Left Mouse
Right Mouse
Escape
Pause
Enter
Tab (Menu)
P2 Start
P2 Coin

Scott

P.S. You might want to look at GGG's Arcade Prime Pushbuttons with Standard Soft Touch Switches--best value pushbuttons I've seen yet.
Red - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=347
Blue - http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=349

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Well, what I referred to as a spade terminal actually isn't...  I was referring to the male flat tabs on the microswitches that you'll be slipping the female disconnects onto.  If it were a crimp connector it would just be called a male disconnect but I'm not sure if that's what it's technically called when referring to the tabs on the microswitches.

I understand now, thank you for clearing that up for me.

Two questions:

1. How do you plan to label the admin buttons?

2. What admin buttons are you planning on having?

One good way to label the admin buttons is using inserts in translucent buttons.
You can use them unlit for now and add the wiring to light them later, if you want.
Since you're placing an order with GGG, consider the Spectralite line. http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=343 or the Chromalite line, if you like the chrome collar look.

The attached inserts work great in Paradise Arcade's buttons, and might work for GGG's as well.
The quarters are dark because I was printing on transparency material for use in LED buttons.
(If anyone wants my original PowerPoint file so you can adjust size/contrast/brightness, drop me a PM with your e-mail.)

My modular panel (rough diagram attached) uses the following admin buttons:
P1Coin
P1 Start
Left Mouse
Right Mouse
Escape
Pause
Enter
Tab (Menu)
P2 Start
P2 Coin

1). To label the admin buttons, I'll be using the Inserts from Paradise Arcade Shop and put them in the Groovy Game Gear Gear Pushbuttons(as long as that's an okay thing to do).

2). For my four admin buttons, here's what I came up with:
Enter
Pause
Escape
Tab

I'll be using the following inserts:
Enter: Enter Insert
Pause: Pause Insert
Escape: 1 Player Big Insert
Tab: Table Rules Insert

If you are getting a U-track with USB then you don't have to worry about getting an encoder with an optical input.  You can get an Ipac, KeyWiz, or minipac to name the most popular.  If you want the wiring harness then get the minipac with wiring harness and then you won't have to worry about the disconnects.  It will take some work to get the wiring to look neat with a minipac but it is the quickest solution.

Is the KeyWiz with 40 Inputs enough?
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=199

I'm planning on using KeyWiz, to learn how to use quick disconnects. If .187 quick disconnects work with the KeyWiz, where do I hook them up at? Do I hook up the Joystick/Buttons to the male end of the .187 quick disconnects? Do I need any extra wires to hook up the Joystick/Buttons to the disconnects?


I'm open to any suggestions or modifications if needed for my controls. 

[PL1]

1). To label the admin buttons, I'll be using the Inserts from Paradise Arcade Shop and put them in the Groovy Game Gear Gear Pushbuttons(as long as that's an okay thing to do).

. . . .

I'll be using the following inserts:
Enter: Enter Insert
Pause: Pause Insert
Escape: 1 Player Big Insert
Tab: Table Rules Insert

. . . .

Is the KeyWiz with 40 Inputs enough?
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=199

I'm planning on using KeyWiz, to learn how to use quick disconnects. If .187 quick disconnects work with the KeyWiz, where do I hook them up at? Do I hook up the Joystick/Buttons to the male end of the .187 quick disconnects? Do I need any extra wires to hook up the Joystick/Buttons to the disconnects?

If you're placing an order with Paradise for the inserts, it makes more sense to get the buttons there too, since Randy and Bryan carry different products and I'm not sure if the inserts are the same size.
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/led-chrome-pushbuttons/35-led-pushbutton-with-bw-insert.html

I agree with your 4 main admin buttons - associated keystroke:
Enter - Enter
Escape - Esc (why the 1 Player Big insert here???!!!???)
Pause - P
Tab - Tab

How do you intend to do the following functions - keystrokes?
P1 Coin - 5
P1 Start - 1 (This would be where the 1 Player Big Insert usually goes.)
P2 Coin - 6
P2 Start - 2
Just sayin--Looks like it'll be kinda hard to play if you can't "drop in a coin" and press the start button without reaching for a keyboard. 

Printing your own inserts can save you some money and lets you get exactly what you want.

On the subject of the Key-wiz, I thought you wanted everything to be USB.  The key-wiz is PS/2.  This is why I originally decided to go with the Mini-Pac Opti.

Also, once you add up the costs of Key-wiz $39 +wiring for 40 switches $19 +U-Trak USB adapter $14, you are only $7 away from the Mini-Pac Opti w. harness $79 which gives you the same connectivity, but only requires the one USB connection instead of one USB (u-Trak adapter) + one PS/2 (Key-wiz).

Added bonus: the Minipac harness is color coded so it's easy to trace wires and connect the U-Trak.

Here's a basic wiring guide.
http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/basicwiringguide.htm

Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Sorry about that, I originally chose the KeyWiz so that I could learn how to do crimping. As for the 1 Player Big insert attached onto Admin buttons that involves the pressing onto the Escape Key, I just didn't know what other insert to use. I chose the GPWiz40 with 40 switches instead, because I'd really like to learn how to connect .187 disconnects. Plus, It's USB-Powered.

As for the keystrokes, I'm planning on using the following:
P1 Coin: 5
P1 Start: 1
P2 Coin: 6
P2 Start 2

I do agree with you about assigning buttons to drop in a coin and choosing to start playing a game. Where can I print out inserts from? Would I have to go to an online store to buy one?

I'm open to any other suggestions or modifications.

[PL1]

Sorry about that, I originally chose the KeyWiz so that I could learn how to do crimping. As for the 1 Player Big insert attached onto Admin buttons that involves the pressing onto the Escape Key, I just didn't know what other insert to use. I chose the GPWiz40 with 40 switches instead, because I'd really like to learn how to connect .187 disconnects. Plus, It's USB-Powered.

As for the keystrokes, I'm planning on using the following:
P1 Coin: 5
P1 Start: 1
P2 Coin: 6
P2 Start 2

I do agree with you about assigning buttons to drop in a coin and choosing to start playing a game. Where can I print out inserts from? Would I have to go to an online store to buy one?

I'm open to any other suggestions or modifications.

1. What insert to use? - It's really easy to print your own.  Like I posted (and attached) yesterday at 3:06:00 P.M., you can use or modify the attached "Admin Buttons.pdf".  Search the forums or Google for inserts if you'd like other options.

2. My question about P1/P2 start/coin is about whether you actually have BUTTONS for that on your CP, not if you're using the default keystrokes.  Your parts list didn't have any coin buttons.

3. Learning how to do crimps. - Definitely a good skill to have, but how many times do you need to practice the process of: Strip wire, position QD, squeeze pliers on crimp collar, move over slightly, squeeze again, gently try to turn QD, if it turns recrimp collar.  First couple times are fun, but after 80 times, it's a pain in the posterior.

The other down side is that without practice or high quality ratcheting crimp pliers, you may end up with inconsistent mechanical or electrical connections. These inconsistencies can be difficult to troubleshoot, especially if they are intermittent.

IMHO, commercially available harnesses are faster, cheaper, easier, and more consistent. YMMV.

Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I chose the I-Pac instead, since that was one of GregD's recommendations. I actually wouldn't mind learning how to use crimp disconnects, since it seems interesting. Anyhow, here's an updated list of parts for my control panel:

2 Omni II 4/8 Way Joysitck with Economy Black bat Tops,along with Smooth Joy Switches(from Groovy Game Gear)
6 Red Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
6 Blue Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
1 U-Trak(Pearl White), from Ultimarc
1 Optional Trim Bezel for U-Track(from Ultimarc)
1 Player 1 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear)
1 Player 2 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear)
4 LED Push Buttons with Coin Inserts(From Paradise Arcade Shop)


Does this look better for a control panel set-up? I'm still confused with what wires to buy(because of the link that PL1 sent me, which contained basic information about wiring), so what type of wires should I use?

I'm open to any suggestions or modifications.

[PL1]

I'm still confused with what wires to buy(because of the link that PL1 sent me, which contained basic information about wiring), so what type of wires should I use?

This thread may help with visualizing/understanding the wiring connections from the switches to the encoder.  If not, I'm sure you can find other threads elsewhere on the forums. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90691.0

Most people use 22 or 24 gauge stranded wire.
Stranded wire is recommended for crimps, instead of solid core, because the strands can compress slightly against each other and are less likely to lose contact/slip out of the crimp.
Various colors are available from different vendors.
Based on your parts list, you'll need enough for a daisy-chain ground and 28 control wires:
 10 -  P1 Left, Right, Up, Down, B1-B6
 10 -  P2 Left, Right, Up, Down, B1-B6
   8 -  P1 Coin, P2 Coin, P1 Start, P2 Start, Esc, Pause, Enter, Tab
Round up on your estimated lengths--you will use more than you think.

To save money, I've even used some leftover speaker wire, but I don't worry about my panel wiring looking "pretty", just that it is neat and mechanically/electrically reliable.

Several color coded considerations on your parts list:
2 Omni II 4/8 Way Joysitck with Economy Black bat Tops,along with Smooth Joy Switches(from Groovy Game Gear)
6 Red Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
6 Blue Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
1 U-Trak(Pearl White), from Ultimarc
1 Optional Trim Bezel for U-Track(from Ultimarc)
**
1 Player 1 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear) - P1 Start
1 Player 2 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear) - P2 Start
** Does it matter to you that these two buttons will look different from your other admin buttons?
6 LED Push Buttons with Coin Inserts(From Paradise Arcade Shop) - P1 Coin, P2 coin, Escape, Pause, Enter, Tab (Per your earlier post)

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I'm still confused with what wires to buy(because of the link that PL1 sent me, which contained basic information about wiring), so what type of wires should I use?

This thread may help with visualizing/understanding the wiring connections from the switches to the encoder.  If not, I'm sure you can find other threads elsewhere on the forums. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90691.0

Most people use 22 or 24 gauge stranded wire.
Stranded wire is recommended for crimps, instead of solid core, because the strands can compress slightly against each other and are less likely to lose contact/slip out of the crimp.
Various colors are available from different vendors.
Based on your parts list, you'll need enough for a daisy-chain ground and 28 control wires:
 10 -  P1 Left, Right, Up, Down, B1-B6
 10 -  P2 Left, Right, Up, Down, B1-B6
   8 -  P1 Coin, P2 Coin, P1 Start, P2 Start, Esc, Pause, Enter, Tab
Round up on your estimated lengths--you will use more than you think.

To save money, I've even used some leftover speaker wire, but I don't worry about my panel wiring looking "pretty", just that it is neat and mechanically/electrically reliable.

Several color coded considerations on your parts list:
2 Omni II 4/8 Way Joysitck with Economy Black bat Tops,along with Smooth Joy Switches(from Groovy Game Gear)
6 Red Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
6 Blue Classic Pushbuttons(Happ-sourced), from Ultimarc
1 U-Trak(Pearl White), from Ultimarc
1 Optional Trim Bezel for U-Track(from Ultimarc)
**
1 Player 1 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear) - P1 Start
1 Player 2 Pushbutton(From Groovy Game Gear) - P2 Start
** Does it matter to you that these two buttons will look different from your other admin buttons?
6 LED Push Buttons with Coin Inserts(From Paradise Arcade Shop) - P1 Coin, P2 coin, Escape, Pause, Enter, Tab (Per your earlier post)

I do not have a problem with my Player 1 and Player 2 Push Buttons looking different from my admin buttons. As for how my control panel looks on the inside, it doesn't matter, as long as everything functions the way it's supposed to. How do these look for stranded 22 gauge wires?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100294013/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=22+gauge+wire&storeId=10051

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202341131/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=22+gauge+wire&storeId=10051

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036275

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049738

I'm choosing these four because of the fact that I'll need multiple-colored wires(according to what I read from previous posts).

[Vigo]

If you are using an IPac, you won't need admin buttons. It comes with built in shift commands. By default, If you hold down player 1 start and player 2 start, it will ESC. Hold down player 1 start and right on the joystick and it pauses, P1 start and button 1 adds coin, etc...

If you prefer admin buttons, go for it....but not needed.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for clearing that up for me Vigo, that will make my project a lot easier. In that case, the I-Pac is my decision for an interface! Now I just have to figure out how many different colored gauge wires I'll need for my control panel...

[PL1]

How do these look for stranded 22 gauge wires?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100294013/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=22+gauge+wire&storeId=10051

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202341131/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=22+gauge+wire&storeId=10051

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036275

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049738

Of these four options, only the third one is stranded and therefore good for crimping.

The rest are solid core.



It also looks like the first two don't have any insulation. This can cause accidental short circuits.


Scott

[GregD]

Here is an option for wire.  Everything you will need in one package.  Comes with lots of colors that will make troubleshooting easier.  Boom.

http://www.altex.com/Velleman-24AWG-Stranded-Core-Mounting-Wiring-Kit-KMOW-P145678.aspx

[PL1]

Here is an option for wire.  Everything you will need in one package.  Comes with lots of colors that will make troubleshooting easier.  Boom.

http://www.altex.com/Velleman-24AWG-Stranded-Core-Mounting-Wiring-Kit-KMOW-P145678.aspx

Great call, Greg.

Looks like an excellent assortment of 24 gauge wire--also available on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-24AWG-Stranded-Mounting-Wiring/dp/B001IRQRRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336696797&sr=8-1

NOTE: Make sure you have wire strippers that go that small.  Many only go down to 22 gauge.

Scott

[PL1]

You asked earlier about wiring information.

Not sure if you've seen this thread:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=80229.0

The wiring videos are a little dark/hard to see, but the explainations are great.


Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you GregD and PL1. I'm going to buy them from Altex, because it looks like they're a reputable store, definitely more so than the sellers that were selling it on Amazon. As for the tools that I'll be using for it, does this look like a good deal, along with including everything I need for crimping wires?
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-70007-Complete-Network/dp/B0018BL0PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1336704266&sr=8-2

As for the videos, I'll watch those too. The computer that the whole family uses lags when it comes to watching YouTube videos, but I noticed I can hear what's going on in the videos anyway(luckily, I'm a good listener   ).

[PL1]

As for the tools that I'll be using for it, does this look like a good deal, along with including everything I need for crimping wires?
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-70007-Complete-Network/dp/B0018BL0PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1336704266&sr=8-2

If you're working on a telephone punch panel or ethernet (RJ-45)/telephone (RJ-11) cables, then yes. For QDs, you might want something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164C0KW/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i04
I like this particular one because of the wider handles that dig into your hand less than most of these.

These look good for wire strippers for 16-24 gauge wire:
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-11046-Stripper-Cutter-Inches/dp/B0000302WS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1336706197&sr=8-11


Scott

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you for the links. I'll show these to my father, since we're working on our cabinet together.

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I learned how to crimp and cut wires today, and I actually did a really good job at it. My father already owns a wire crimp tool and a wire cutter as well, so I'm all set for when the time comes when I assemble my control panel.

[Vigo]

 

[ArcadeSeeker962]

Thank you, Vigo. I really enjoyed learning how to cut and crimp the wires. The wire crimp that my father owns can crimp all the way down to a 20-22 gauge, so that will definitely work for the project. Plus, he owns an assortment of other tools as well, which will be perfect for cutting and crimping down wires that are 24 gauge as well. So, when It comes to cutting and crimping wires, I have everything I need. 

[ArcadeSeeker962]

I apologize for updating an old topic, but I've made some big changes when it comes to my miniature cabinet. I decided that the miniature cabinet is going to be exclusive to fighting games. I also decided that I'm going to use the Mini-Pac as an interface(I would like to learn how to cut, crimp, and strip wires at a tech school first). I'm choosing between two different choices for the Joystick part of the control panel, either the Sanwa JLF or the IL Eurostick. I don't mind which one I'd like to use, but I feel very strongly about using the IL Eurostick, mainly because of its design. If not, would the spit-fire fight stick with the Sanwa octagonal gate or the round-house fight stick from Groovy Game Gear be a better option?

Here's a list of games I'd like to include in the cabinet, to make things easier:
Fatal Fury 2
Killer Instinct
Killer Instinct 2
Street Fighter II:The World Warrior
Super Street Fighter II: Turbo
Street Fighter Alpha
Street Fighter Alpha 2

As for the buttons, I'd like to choose either the Sanwa OBSF push buttons or the IL Euro push buttons. However, the IL Euro Push buttons are my favorite option. So, what do you all think?