Author Topic: First time JAMMA power question (Read 6612 times)

b3dr0ck · « **on:** April 22, 2012, 12:47:05 pm »

Second rebuild, first time JAMMA. The JAMMA in the cabinet, all of the power wires are cut.

Just seems odd to me, but why are there 2 wires for all of the power connections (5V, -5V, 12V, G, G)? So I'm supposed to run both sides (parts and solder) to the same switcher connection? Could I just wire those two wires together and then run 1 wire to the switcher? Same thing with the Grounds?

See pic

ed12 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 22, 2012, 03:56:58 pm »

as a rule they are dragged out sep
then when u get to the molex plug
they hook in again sep
if u want u can :group: gnd to gnd +5 to +5 etc at the switcher
jama was built to alow for :flex:,in machine harness
up till then mfg's did what they pleased
note it will say up/down/start/coin 1-2 etc
-5 is new as we as a rule do not use it
also note switcher's as u call them and now use the proper term >smp's<
use a orange on the 12 volt line where jamma use's a yellow
the blue is as a rule -5,i know of no game that use's -5v but i can stand to b corrected on that 1 fact.

ed

Franco B · « **Reply #2 on:** April 22, 2012, 05:20:36 pm »

Quote from: ed12 on April 22, 2012, 03:56:58 pm

as a rule they are dragged out sep
then when u get to the molex plug
they hook in again sep
if u want u can :group: gnd to gnd +5 to +5 etc at the switcher
jama was built to alow for :flex:,in machine harness
up till then mfg's did what they pleased
note it will say up/down/start/coin 1-2 etc
-5 is new as we as a rule do not use it
also note switcher's as u call them and now use the proper term >smp's<
use a orange on the 12 volt line where jamma use's a yellow
the blue is as a rule -5,i know of no game that use's -5v but i can stand to b corrected on that 1 fact.

ed

WTF are you on about?

-5v isn't new, a lot of older games use -5v, mainly for the audio amp.

You want to run each wire individually to the PSU. Multiple power/GND lines gives a greater cross sectional area of cable which reduces the resistance and therefore any voltage drop in the loom. Using multiple wires also provides built in redundancy in case of a wire breaking/failing.

Power wires should be 24/0.2 / 18AWG gauge.

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #3 on:** April 22, 2012, 07:32:55 pm »

OK - thanks, that actually gives me a reason to run the extra wires. (Since the Jamma was cut, and they do not already exist)

I'm connecting to a Neo Geo MVS1 - so actually the -5v isn't used, but I'll probably wire it anyway, in-case I ever want to replace the NEO GEO board with some other Jamma.

ed12 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 22, 2012, 08:08:09 pm »

WTF are you on about?

-5v isn't new, a lot of older games use -5v, mainly for the audio amp.

You want to run each wire individually to the PSU. Multiple power/GND lines gives a greater cross sectional area of cable which reduces the resistance and therefore any voltage drop in the loom. Using multiple wires also provides built in redundancy in case of a wire breaking/failing.

Power wires should be 24/0.2 / 18AWG gauge.

i will reply to u as kindly as i can
g-f-y-s
+12 is audio idiot
and stop well u are ahead
after 30+ year's at this i need not to have to talk to an idiot
go sit on your x-box

ed

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #5 on:** April 22, 2012, 09:19:15 pm »

Uh, ed, aside from the unnecessarily nasty tone of your post, Franco is right -- -5V is sometimes used in the pre-amp where 12V is used for output.

EDIT: As far as games that use -5V, Mortal Kombat is probably the most popular example I can think of.

EDIT2: I knew I had a bookmark for this ... http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/List_of_JAMMA_PCB%27s_that_require_-5_volts

ed12 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 22, 2012, 09:29:00 pm »

dude it was his tone that made me respond the way i did
any idiot knows molex plug's.and also there is very few game's that use -5 volt >blue-wire< dang dude look at any its-games and or happ's control power supply to jamma,the blue is not used,it is dang game thing.the general q was asked,i responded
so i do not think i was out of line
so no i will not back down....

ed

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #7 on:** April 22, 2012, 10:12:05 pm »

Well I'm glad I could start a spirited discussion

Ed, I truly appreciate your help. I think you helped me some on some other stuff with this project. My only problem is your general stream of consciousness writing style is very hard to follow. Your lack of complete sentences, punctuation, and whole words hinders my ability to understand what your trying to communicate.

ed12 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 22, 2012, 10:37:02 pm »

b3dr0ck
nothing to u at all
sorry if i am not tech enouh in my post's
but read the top and bottom of the jamma plug
it is very clear what they want
as a rule u can
a=run then into a molex plug
b=group them ie black to black red to red orange to orange
into a :switcher:..
i explained how to hook the switcher as u call it
and it should be a :smps:
contary to other know..
i work with most switcher's
we never use >blue< unless it is a X-Y GAME
if that is the case the jamma is not used any how
it is about that simple
so if u need long-gate the wire's
stick to the colour code for saftey sake
carry on
tech enough ?

ed

Franco B · « **Reply #9 on:** April 23, 2012, 12:06:25 am »

Wow, just wow.

To be honest, I'm not even going to comment and get into a flame war.

Anyway, moving on. b3dr0ck, I did a JAMMA PSU > supergun wiring guide [here]. I appreciate you are not wiring up a supergun but a lot of the information and techniques can be applied to what you are doing.

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #10 on:** April 23, 2012, 01:33:45 am »

I connected up the power to the switcher

I didn't connect the -5v, I read the NEO GEO MVS1 doesn't use it, and I was rushed to see if it would work.

I turned it on, and ... another problem, started another thread
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=119678.0

but ... the speakers were popping. I noticed that the jamma harness has 1 of the 2 - 12v lines going up into the cab (speakers I presume), instead of to the switcher. I'm guessing - thats not OK?

opt2not · « **Reply #11 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:16:35 pm »

Franco B and CheffoJeffo know their stuff.
When in doubt, trust the guys with thousands of posts and numerous projects and cabinets under their belts.

ed12 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 23, 2012, 03:37:25 pm »

i am glad this was moved

Quote from: opt2not on April 23, 2012, 03:16:35 pm

Franco B and CheffoJeffo know their stuff.
When in doubt, trust the guys with thousands of posts and numerous projects and cabinets under their belts.

another idiot

ed

MonMotha · « **Reply #13 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:13:45 pm »

Be aware that Neo-Geo MVS multislot boards do not use standard JAMMA wiring. The audio, in particular, is very different, and hooking it up per JAMMA can cause some interesting problems (the other way - hooking an MVS wired cabinet up to a JAMMA game board - can easily blow things up and/or melt wires).

If you're using a single-slot Neo-Geo, it's fully JAMMA, but make sure the audio switch on the board is set to mono, not stereo.

MVS shouldn't need -5V.

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #14 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:19:24 pm »

Quote from: ed12 on April 23, 2012, 03:37:25 pm

i am glad this was moved

Quote from: opt2not on April 23, 2012, 03:16:35 pm
Franco B and CheffoJeffo know their stuff.
When in doubt, trust the guys with thousands of posts and numerous projects and cabinets under their belts.

another idiot

ed

Nope.

Ed, I appreciate you trying to help, but if you are going to call people idiots, you need to start typing your posts in actual sentences as opposed to the text-shorthand-train-of-thought-caveman-haikus you vomit out. Because, you know, it is ironic.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #15 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:24:36 pm »

I like haiku:

Browsing new replies
Fearsomefearful let's us know
Ed's the idiot

Well Fed Games · « **Reply #16 on:** April 23, 2012, 04:39:40 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on April 23, 2012, 04:24:36 pm

I like haiku:

Browsing new replies
Fearsomefearful let's us know
Ed's the idiot

Yeah, I may have been a bit harsh...

opt2not · « **Reply #17 on:** April 23, 2012, 05:02:32 pm »

Quote from: thefearsomefearful on April 23, 2012, 04:39:40 pm

Yeah, I may have been a bit harsh...

Not at all. You're completely on point.

Quote from: ed12 on April 23, 2012, 03:37:25 pm

i am glad this was moved

Quote from: opt2not on April 23, 2012, 03:16:35 pm
Franco B and CheffoJeffo know their stuff.
When in doubt, trust the guys with thousands of posts and numerous projects and cabinets under their belts.

another idiot

ed

ed12, please read the forum rules:
http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_message_rules.html

1. Be nice to each other. We're serious about this one. Disagree, debate, argue at will - but please be respectful. Messages that are flame-bait, hateful, racist, or otherwise pointlessly antagonistic will likely be sent to post-hell, and repeat offenders banned from posting.

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #18 on:** April 23, 2012, 05:10:59 pm »

Oh negative five
Me thinks there's 12 volt problem
I do not need you

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #19 on:** April 23, 2012, 08:30:13 pm »

Quote from: b3dr0ck on April 23, 2012, 05:10:59 pm

Oh negative five
Me thinks there's 12 volt problem
I do not need you

Folks, ed is just cranky and thinks people are jumping on him.

He is 100% wrong that -5v in arcade machines is something new, but it doesn't come up much anymore.

ed12 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 23, 2012, 10:35:32 pm »

i have read the rule's
the nick threw the topic right off track
i just responded the best way i know how
no i am not crankey,i try to help as much as any working person in this
business can,topic was about the SWITCHER.and JAMMA harness's
the newer board's do not use -5,older board's i will say some do it's 50/50
but then THEY WERE NOT JAMMA.
that line was pulled in for bally/william's driving games's
the nick never said what board he was hooking 2 until the third thread he posted,disrespect me all u need

ed

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #21 on:** April 23, 2012, 11:58:38 pm »

I checked 12 volt
It goes to open molex
'nother false alarm

ed12 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 24, 2012, 12:06:12 am »

ok to get back on track
what game are u working on ?
please and thk-u

ed

Franco B · « **Reply #23 on:** April 24, 2012, 05:15:37 am »

Wait, you provide incorrect information written in nonsensical gibberish whilst insulting people and yet we are the idiots?

Quote from: ed12 on April 23, 2012, 10:35:32 pm

older board's i will say some do it's 50/50
but then THEY WERE NOT JAMMA.

Are you saying that PCBs that use -5v are not JAMMA?

WRONG

I have a few JAMMA standard boards which use -5v.

Have you ever read a JAMMA pinout? -5v is clearly shown.

Nice to see your '30 years experience' working out for you

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #24 on:** April 24, 2012, 09:46:20 am »

Quote from: ed12 on April 23, 2012, 10:35:32 pm

no i am not crankey,i try to help as much as any working person in this business can

I have never seen Ken Layton call anybody an idiot ...

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #25 on:** April 24, 2012, 03:29:02 pm »

I have another thread started, but I'm keeping this one because I think there still might be a Jamma wiring issue, and I love Hiakus

The board is a MVS MV1FS

Here's Jamma wiring instructions - FYI
http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/Jamma2NeoGeo4SlotPinout.pdf

I've tested the voltage to the jamma all looks well
1 of the 12 volt wires does not go back to the switcher, it goes off to a molex plug that isn't plugged in.
I am unsure if the bottom 4 grounds on the Jamma are grounded. I wired the top 4 before with the power to the switcher, but the bottom 4 may just be disconnected. (I've not wired the whole Jamma, I just wanted to see if the board worked) So ... where do I run the bottom 4 grounds? (please excuse my ignorance)

I think there may be a grounding issue; when I turn on the power, the speakers pop/click repeatedly.
The screen just comes up with a flashing pattern. I tested the battery on the PCB and it looks dead, but I don't know if that would cause any of these symptoms.

Franco B · « **Reply #26 on:** April 24, 2012, 03:42:26 pm »

Have you checked the 5v level at the JAMMA edge whilst under load (i.e. with the 1 slot mobo plugged in)?

Don't worry about the floating 12v cable, that has nothing to do with the problem. It may have been used for an electronic coin mech or something. As long as you have at least one 12v wire connected to the JAMMA edge then you should be good.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #27 on:** April 24, 2012, 04:40:30 pm »

Ignore the wiring instructions -- they are for a multi-slot board.

Check the 5V at the board like Franco suggests.

Quick question -- are you booting with or without a cartridge installed ?

If you are booting with a cartridge, try booting without one and let us know what you see.

Franco B · « **Reply #28 on:** April 24, 2012, 04:48:09 pm »

Good call, after checking the 5v try booting without a cart.

If you boot without a cart in you should get a cross hatch.

If you don't get a cross hatch then there must be an issue with your one slot, if you do get a cross hatch but still get the garbage on screen when you have a cart inserted then the problem is likely to lie with the cart.

Do you have another cart you could try?

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #29 on:** April 25, 2012, 12:15:26 am »

OK plugged Jamma in, tested voltage at the leads on board coming from the Jamma, grounded to lead 1 or 2 got
4.9
4.9
--- not connected neg five
12.2

the screen is a flashing checkerboard pattern with different colors, letters, characters
speakers still popping the same freq as the flashing on the monitor

removed daughter card, with cart inserted - same thing, no difference (could be my eyes, but it looks like the screen may not be as vibrant in colors as the other day, the pattern not as complicated, could just be my eyes after a long day)

all dip switches are in the up position - I booted the other day with them all down (my understanding ON) to force a system check, same thing

checked battery on board while plugged in - it read 4v

the board looks pristine - it has a sticker on it from a distributer marked as repaired. It is super clean. I bought the cart off ebay - it was tested, and verified before shipped.

I do not have another cart to test.

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #30 on:** April 25, 2012, 12:20:45 am »

I just wanna play
Flashing screen, popping speakers
Samurai Showdown

b3dr0ck · « **Reply #31 on:** April 26, 2012, 11:04:54 am »

well ... looks like the problem is

Watchdog "click of death"

symptoms look that way - even-though the board looks to be in great condition

xefned · « **Reply #32 on:** August 09, 2015, 10:34:15 am »

Quote from: ed12 on April 24, 2012, 12:06:12 am

to get back on track
what game are u working on ?
please and thk-u, ed

Fixed per the rules. So close without even trying!

keilmillerjr · « **Reply #33 on:** August 09, 2015, 03:21:57 pm »

Your probably better off going to the neo-geo.com forums.

BTW- Hello fellow neo geo owner!


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