AimTrak-Converting a Namco Recoil Gun

[FrenchGamer]

Hello! Nobody can help me  ?

You will need the kit that you linked to (the camera module, sensor bar and trigger buttons)

You will not need a PSU unless you want to have recoil, If you want recoil you will need the recoil solenoid and a PSU.

As for installing it in your gun I have no idea sorry.

Thanks you, but I think I Can use the solenoid and the PSU of my Jolt Gun and not buy another? That I understood 

Yeah that's right. I just did this last night with my jolt gun using the instructions on page 8 of this thread.
I'll do a proper write up in a day or so but some points of note.

I used option 1 and took route 3b. It took me 4 hours with 2 of us.
There was more plastic cutting than I expected but we managed to cut it to hold the board without the need for glue!
Everything is a really tight fit!
The soldering on the board is very tiny. you'll want some experience and a steady hand.
My PS1 cable colours didn't match any of the other people in this thread but the positions of the +ve and Ground wires was the same on the PS board.

Pod

P.s Cheers to everyone in this thread!

Hi Podbod!

Thank you, I hope you will soon offer us your proper write up, I would surely find answers to my questions in it.

Now I have the complet box Jolt Gun, and the aimtrak pack

https://www.ultimarc.com/aimtrak_module.html

And if you can make some pictures of your custom Jolt gun, it will be so nice! thank you for all!

[Bojo5150]

Question for the group...

I have 2 AimTrak recoil guns on my cabinet and I recently picked up a “named” Namco knockoff in hopes to convert it to an  AimTrak with the Namco solenoid. I’ve read this entire thread and it seems like it’s a rather difficult conversion for someone with no knowledge of DC circuitry.

My question is, can I not simply disconnect the AimTrak solenoid wires to the Namco solenoid wires and the AimTrak trigger wires to the Namco trigger?

All help is very much appreciated!

[mangueboy]

Ah-ha! Turns out the auto fire issue is because of the auto reload functionality. I don't have a manual. Can someone explain how auto fire /program mode works?

It still struggles if you press the fire button too quickly but I seem to recall that was an issue when I had one as a kid. Something the namco arcade ones don't (or at least I don't recall them having). Probably a better solenoid?

P

Are you using this gun with an AimTrak or using it wit PS1?

I had a brand new one when I bought one so I have the original manual and power supply. I post what I can find out.

Hello, SlyblueFox. First, thanks for the great mod project. I bought two jolt guns  and  completed the mod  of one them with (Option #1) normal single fire and  autofire enable. Now, I need your opinion on a possible solution to retain autofire and not off screen recoil, using a aimtrak recoil PCB, like schematic below. I did a test with recoil signal and  and measured standard 0v by default. Then i wire one 12v power supply to V+, V and S1, S2 output of Aimtrak recoil PCB to Jolt Gun 12V  supply connections points. Then i ground G point and  supply 5v to R (recoil) point in Aimtrak recoil PCB. Nothing happened with S1 and S2 points that continued to measure 12v. I think that supply 5v  to point with block s1 an s2 any voltage, since i see this power when G points was disconnect. Please, what type of signal the recoil connection of a Aimtrak Gun PCB will gives when you tries fire off screen? What your opinion about schematic below? Will this solution work?

Update: Finally i assembly in Jolt Gun one Recoil PCB, but not have time to test yet if the RAG wiil not  recoil offscreen. I  suffered with bed solding of V+ e V- and S1 and S2. Make sure you will do a really good solding of this points or 12V output will fail several times. I use Replacement USB/Power Cable (http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=7), but inside of RAG i use part of original power wire of Jolt Gun, because it is more thin.

[TobiasRieper]

I've been reading up on this thread, amazing work guys!! All I want to do is make my own recoil kit for my Aimtrack gun. Got the schematic from the first post on the board so that eliminates the need for a recoil board from ultimarc. Can anyone recommend a decent solenoid for the aimtrack shell? I want to keep everything stock as much as possible! Cheers

[Zebra]

If it's just semi auto recoil you want, you might as well use the Ultimarc solenoid as it fits out the box and is relatively cheap. It's actually not bad (for semi auto recoil) if you use it as intended.

If you want full auto recoil, the least expensive option I found is to convert one of the PS1 jolt guns. They can usually be found cheap on ebay.

The Aimtrak shell is too small to fit any decent arcade recoil solenoid. Even the ones from Happ recoil guns don't fit and they are among the smallest arcade recoil pistols I've seen.

The only inexpensive arcade (full auto) recoil solenoid I know of that can be bought new is the Terminator Salvation ones from Betson. They won't fit an Aimtrak shell but they are awesome.

[TobiasRieper]

Hi, thanks for your reply. By chance I was given a battered old Namco gun from Time Crisis 2, working micro switch and solenoid. so now I am going to restore the plastics then power the solenoid with 24v 2.8a power supply that I found. Using JB weld to fix the broken bits then I'll file, sand and repaint the gun. Not sure what spray paint to use?

[Zebra]

I'd clean rather than paint unless the plastic is cracked. If you Google "cleaning time crisis arcade guns" you'll find a bunch of posts describing how to restore the color to factory condition using UV lights and vinegar and whatnot. The blue guns fade to a greenish color and apparently, that can be reversed.

Out of interest, what sensor board does it have inside? I have 5 time crisis guns here with 3 different variants of the Namco sensor PCB and there is a huge difference in performance for Guncon 2 mods.

[Zebra]

Question for the group...

I have 2 AimTrak recoil guns on my cabinet and I recently picked up a “named” Namco knockoff in hopes to convert it to an  AimTrak with the Namco solenoid. I’ve read this entire thread and it seems like it’s a rather difficult conversion for someone with no knowledge of DC circuitry.

My question is, can I not simply disconnect the AimTrak solenoid wires to the Namco solenoid wires and the AimTrak trigger wires to the Namco trigger?

All help is very much appreciated!

Yes, you can do that. Just buy the Aimtrak recoil kit and connect the NO and Com pins on the Namco trigger switch to the Aimtrak recoil PCB instead of the small trigger micro switch it comes with. You have to solder it all yourself anyway, so it's no extra work. Just make sure to use a 24v psu instead of the 36v one people use for Aimtraks (or 12v for Jolt guns).

I use a 24v 1.5a dovetail psu off ebay and it works just fine.

If you use the Aimtrak recoil kit then you can use the Arcade Guns Aimforce recoil dongle for full auto recoil. It has an app which allows you to set semi or full auto recoil on a game by game basis in Mame, M2, M3 and Teknoparrot etc. It's all easy to use drop-down menus. You can even set the recoil speed for each game and it has an option to use hooks to drive it like mame hooker. It's fantastic software. I wish I could use it for all my gun controllers.

If you don't want full auto recoil, you can just use a relay trigger board off ebay like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-30V-Delay-Relay-Timer-Module-Trigger-Delay-Switch-DIY-Micro-USB-Module-stable/173463895046?hash=item286340fc06:g:VHMAAOSwhO9bbk~c

I use them with an additional Ne555 board to semi and auto recoil on my PS2 Time Crisis arcade guns. They are super easy to use. They take power from a USB port and are triggered using wires from the gun trigger switch.

[TobiasRieper]

I'd clean rather than paint unless the plastic is cracked. If you Google "cleaning time crisis arcade guns" you'll find a bunch of posts describing how to restore the color to factory condition using UV lights and vinegar and whatnot. The blue guns fade to a greenish color and apparently, that can be reversed.

Out of interest, what sensor board does it have inside? I have 5 time crisis guns here with 3 different variants of the Namco sensor PCB and there is a huge difference in performance for Guncon 2 mods.

I would have much preferred the original finish, alas there's a big chunk missing out of the bottom and around the trigger guard. It's a pretty battered gun. Have attached image of the sensor for you..what do you reckon, should I prime it and spray it matte black?
Cheers!
Cheers!

[Podbod]

Hey everyone!

So you might recall I converted a joytech gun using  the ultimarc kit and used the old ps1 internals to drive the original recoil solenoid. This worked fine but I always thought the recoil was weak. So one day I fed it a bit more voltage and it ruled. But sadly it burnt out. I bought the ultimarc 36v solenoid and recoil pcb but I've never installed it. I got into other things (I built a lightsaber!)

I'm getting around to fixing this but it looks like there are now more options. I see talk of a dongle for full auto (although Andy from ultimarc has told me that his solenoid can't handle full auto). Has anyone here used it with ultimarcs solenoid? How's it handle it?

I've also seen talk of this gun being an alternative for the joytech. https://www.google.com/amp/s/h5.aliexpress.com/item/32922007417.html
Has anyone tried it? How's the recoil, button placement and and accuracy on it. The joytech is cool but the lack of a button at the front sucks ans the build quality is a little shady in places. If it's decent I might consider it for a player 2 conversion.
Its also possible to get a real tc4 shell for about the same price I think. Anyone know the build quality on those? Similar or worse than the original point blank/tc1 ones?

Sindens light gun is also just about ready (although I have no info on upgrade kits or sizes for a conversion). So I might wait and use that if it's easy enough to do as the ability to not have to stand in just the right spot to be accurate would be great (I don't mind the border)

Cheers for any replies and info

Pod

[kim_sama_999]

Hey everyone!

So you might recall I converted a joytech gun using  the ultimarc kit and used the old ps1 internals to drive the original recoil solenoid. This worked fine but I always thought the recoil was weak. So one day I fed it a bit more voltage and it ruled. But sadly it burnt out. I bought the ultimarc 36v solenoid and recoil pcb but I've never installed it. I got into other things (I built a lightsaber!)

I'm getting around to fixing this but it looks like there are now more options. I see talk of a dongle for full auto (although Andy from ultimarc has told me that his solenoid can't handle full auto). Has anyone here used it with ultimarcs solenoid? How's it handle it?

I've also seen talk of this gun being an alternative for the joytech. https://www.google.com/amp/s/h5.aliexpress.com/item/32922007417.html
Has anyone tried it? How's the recoil, button placement and and accuracy on it. The joytech is cool but the lack of a button at the front sucks ans the build quality is a little shady in places. If it's decent I might consider it for a player 2 conversion.
Its also possible to get a real tc4 shell for about the same price I think. Anyone know the build quality on those? Similar or worse than the original point blank/tc1 ones?

Sindens light gun is also just about ready (although I have no info on upgrade kits or sizes for a conversion). So I might wait and use that if it's easy enough to do as the ability to not have to stand in just the right spot to be accurate would be great (I don't mind the border)

Cheers for any replies and info

Pod

I've been thinking about getting the gun shell too, but I don't think it will come with the micro switch so I would have to get one on eBay. I saw another selling on Aliexpress with all the wires, micro switch and recoil bits which cost more, but I think the parts are for the bootleg cabinets so you're better of keeping the recoil bits

[Magicray1028]

I just got a jolt gun from ebay and was wondering if anyone else gets the rattling from the ball bearings in the slide? I’m trying to open it up but stuck on the back piece of the shell , don’t know if it’s glue or a screw I’m not seeing, are there supposed to be ball bearings missing or is the row supposed to be full?