Touch Screen Jukebox project conversion

[ronnie-dent]

Mentioned this in another thread, now work has began!

This is an NSM Hyperbeam slave wallbox, I was going to keep the lighting that was there but decided to remove all the inards and start fresh

I will be using-

17" ELO touch screen
pentium dual core 1.63ghz
2gb ram
300gb hd
Nvidia ge force 8500 graphics

Probably Album Player on xp pro with instant sheller

I plan to use a hifi amp for the sound not sourced yet! and the lighting probably dream leds.

pictures are not working for me will try in next post

[ronnie-dent]

Ok picture above before work started.

next stripped cabinet

[ronnie-dent]

Now with mdf bezel cut to hold the touchscreen, a sign making company is making a perspex plexi to go over the mdf to tie in with the old glass but that has yet to be designed

problems to overcome are connecting the coin mech up to the sotware was thinking i-pac

Also power source for touchscreen and driver board, might use an xbox 360 power brick as I have a few spare.

Very much a work in progress and all ideas and advice most welcome

[ronnie-dent]

Had a mess with paint

[Meph]

Cool project.  I have been planning to convert a wallbox very similar to that one but instead of touchscreen I was going to hack the original controls and run SK jukebox like I did with my Rowe CD-100A Project.  I will be checking this one out though.

[ronnie-dent]

Cool project.  I have been planning to convert a wallbox very similar to that one but instead of touchscreen I was going to hack the original controls and run SK jukebox like I did with my Rowe CD-100A Project.  I will be checking this one out though.

Thanks for that, should have more updates soon

[ronnie-dent]

Been thinking of ideas to light the frame of the door, there 2 long tube lights either side and 2 short along the top, chasing leds seems a good idea, plain white as the plastic is coloured blue and red so was thinking on these


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170649749405?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Also the panel along the bottom which housed the keypad and display etc, would like to do something with that space, thought about vu meters

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160730162512?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

but seller gives no details on size, also seen those plasma type discs (instead of a ball) like these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-POCKET-PLASMA-LIGHT-DISK-/280706655242?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item415b6ba40a


might be ok or too small but something along those lines, or guess I could fit small speakers??

[Drnick]

The first lights shown look OK, but you may be better off with something like these. (Controller and lights)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Music-IR-Controller-Sound-Control-12A-144W-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-Stripe-/190658995817?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Lighting_Lamps_Lighting_SM&hash=item2c64296669
&
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-300cm-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-180-SMD-LED-Lamp-Light-Strip-/200734573542?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebcb683e6

It is more expensive then your original plan, but it means you actually get sound controlled lights rather then whatever patterns the tube light you showed offers. Even if you just set them to White rather then assorted colours they will still pulse to the beat .

As for the 2nd option, if they fit any belt I would guess they are about 2.5" - 3.0" diameter. I am putting in some EL Patches in spaces about the same size. (Unfortunately I cannot supply the link as they are no longer in stock).
I think they (The Plasma disks) would look quite good in each corner of your unit :-)

As for the middle holes, Was there no way of re-utilising the numeric keypad from the original setup?  VU meters would be a good idea, I believe Gryhnd could probably assist you with those :-) there may be others out there who have done the same thing, but I can't think of anyone off the top of my head.

[ronnie-dent]

The first lights shown look OK, but you may be better off with something like these. (Controller and lights)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Music-IR-Controller-Sound-Control-12A-144W-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-Stripe-/190658995817?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Lighting_Lamps_Lighting_SM&hash=item2c64296669
&
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-300cm-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-180-SMD-LED-Lamp-Light-Strip-/200734573542?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebcb683e6

It is more expensive then your original plan, but it means you actually get sound controlled lights rather then whatever patterns the tube light you showed offers. Even if you just set them to White rather then assorted colours they will still pulse to the beat .

As for the 2nd option, if they fit any belt I would guess they are about 2.5" - 3.0" diameter. I am putting in some EL Patches in spaces about the same size. (Unfortunately I cannot supply the link as they are no longer in stock).
I think they (The Plasma disks) would look quite good in each corner of your unit :-)

As for the middle holes, Was there no way of re-utilising the numeric keypad from the original setup?  VU meters would be a good idea, I believe Gryhnd could probably assist you with those :-) there may be others out there who have done the same thing, but I can't think of anyone off the top of my head.

Thanks for the info, I did think light to sound would be better and later found these-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290689795895?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The strips would be the right size to suit the 2 sides and top part, was not sure if these would retain the setting after power off

All the surplus bits such as the keypad I flung on ebay and most parts now sold which will help to buy other bits.

going to keep an open mind on the bottom panel, no doubt I will have more ideas

[Drnick]

Yep those would work Not sure about the retaining settings though.  It looks like there are 3 wires (2 x red and 1 x black) I would guess that the 2nd red wire would normally be used to give it a permanent connection to voltage, I could be wrong and it could be that it is the wire that goes to the switchable ignition normally.  At the worst you would have to press a couple o buttons on the remote to get it working.  Maybe fashion a holder where the numeric keypad used to be that it can fit into

[ronnie-dent]

Yep those would work Not sure about the retaining settings though.  It looks like there are 3 wires (2 x red and 1 x black) I would guess that the 2nd red wire would normally be used to give it a permanent connection to voltage, I could be wrong and it could be that it is the wire that goes to the switchable ignition normally.  At the worst you would have to press a couple o buttons on the remote to get it working.  Maybe fashion a holder where the numeric keypad used to be that it can fit into

To be honest I like the look of the lights you linked to, looks a bit more robust, I may just go for those

[Meph]

Those look great.  I'm really curious about how to wire them to power on automatically with my juke.  For $16 on ebay + $7 for the power adapter I think i'm going to grab a set and play with them.

[drventure]

A few things I discovered with respect to sound activated lighting.

Modules that are for use in cars often will have a "no sound" fallback that just blinks or does something that you might not want it doing in a jukebox. Best to email the vendor to verify that before purchasing.

And the control module sensitivity can be futzy. Sometimes, I like the sound barely audible for just background music, but sometimes, I like it nice and loud.

The prob is the sensitivity adjustment is just one setting, it usually can't vary with volume, so you set it to low volume and you get nice effects, but when you crank the volume, all the lights just go full "on"

or you set it for loud volume and when you turn things down, everything goes dark.

I'm not sure what the best option is, but a controller than can be set to random patterns works pretty good if all you want is a  lightshow.

[ronnie-dent]

A few things I discovered with respect to sound activated lighting.

Modules that are for use in cars often will have a "no sound" fallback that just blinks or does something that you might not want it doing in a jukebox. Best to email the vendor to verify that before purchasing.

And the control module sensitivity can be futzy. Sometimes, I like the sound barely audible for just background music, but sometimes, I like it nice and loud.

The prob is the sensitivity adjustment is just one setting, it usually can't vary with volume, so you set it to low volume and you get nice effects, but when you crank the volume, all the lights just go full "on"

or you set it for loud volume and when you turn things down, everything goes dark.

I'm not sure what the best option is, but a controller than can be set to random patterns works pretty good if all you want is a  lightshow.

That's a good point! so what we would need is a light box that took a wired input say that came from a headphone input? must have a trawl and see what is out there.

I have my sound system sorted out, consisting of Rotel RA-840 amp with Kef coda 3 speakers, not sure to go with the onboard sound card or get a soundblaster or the like?

Ronnie

[ronnie-dent]

Looking at the pics on this-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190658995817?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

it has an audio socket, so would guess you could feed a steady signal that would not change with the volume?

[Drnick]

It will be steady if you never change windows volume or individual software volumes.  Unfortunately this would mean that you have to control the speaker volume directly from the amp or speakers.  As you are using a proper amp/speaker setup I don't think this would be an issue for you. Set the volume in windows to somewhere between 60 & 90% depending on what sounds best from your amp and what gives best results for the lights. Then never touch it again.  As for sound quality I installed a Soundblaster live to my machine (But then again I needed the 5.1 outputs for my speaker setup).  It definitely sounds better then the onboard realtek device.  If you do go down the SB Route  do yourself a favour and make sure you get drivers with it. I installed an OEM SBLive and the hassle I had getting working drivers under XP.   Don't forget that whatever route you take you would need a headphone splitter cable so you have 1 side going to the amp and the other going to the LED Controller, I got 3 of these for my current setup

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-1-Plug-2-x-Sockets-Headphone-Splitter-Adaptor-Plug-iPod-UK-/150764960647?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item231a4abb87

[ronnie-dent]

It will be steady if you never change windows volume or individual software volumes.  Unfortunately this would mean that you have to control the speaker volume directly from the amp or speakers.  As you are using a proper amp/speaker setup I don't think this would be an issue for you. Set the volume in windows to somewhere between 60 & 90% depending on what sounds best from your amp and what gives best results for the lights. Then never touch it again.  As for sound quality I installed a Soundblaster live to my machine (But then again I needed the 5.1 outputs for my speaker setup).  It definitely sounds better then the onboard realtek device.  If you do go down the SB Route  do yourself a favour and make sure you get drivers with it. I installed an OEM SBLive and the hassle I had getting working drivers under XP. 

Thanks for the advice, yes I was thinking I would leave the windows sound level to where it was best

I think with mp3 you loose some of the sound quality anyway?  think I will wait and see how it all sounds, might add a card later

The PC is nearly ready, it was a full size tower! lets say it's now sawn off

pics soon

[Drnick]

Edited my last post and you had replied in the meantime.  Yeah you do lose some quality with MP3 over source material. I just rip my stuff at 320 for mp3 and 256 for aac,  It all depends on what's going to play it. (Juke or IPOD)

[ronnie-dent]

Edited my last post and you had replied in the meantime.  Yeah you do lose some quality with MP3 over source material. I just rip my stuff at 320 for mp3 and 256 for aac,  It all depends on what's going to play it. (Juke or IPOD)

Lol, thanks, I have a feeling I have one of those!! but where??? will need to look in my box of wires see what I have

Ronnie

[Barry Barcrest]

That is basically how herrondata do their conversions. They seem to have a problem with fixing their screens in securely though or at least on the ones I have encountered.

[lilshawn]

just thought i'd throw this in...
i used RGB LED strips to light up everything. I also used a piece of translucent plexi on the front.

[Drnick]

just thought i'd throw this in...
i used RGB LED strips to light up everything. I also used a piece of translucent plexi on the front.

Yay, I'm allowed to put money in that jukebox "Loonies only"  I just can't take that currency seriously, I just cant.

[lilshawn]

actually this is a route machine so yes you HAVE to put money in it.

it's only $1 coins because the machine had to be installed before a replacement electronic mech could be located for it. (old ass ms111) a shiny new coin controls SR5i series mech is on order... so we scabbed the original to only accept $1 coins for now.  no big deal

[ed12]

hi

lilshawn
just a q here if u do not mind
u are in canada right ?
if so lonnie/tonnie will not work with any older accepter
unless u swap out to :mei-cash-flow-refernce-series-330:,
i know done it did it have the tire mark's

ed

[lilshawn]

hi

lilshawn
just a q here if u do not mind
u are in canada right ?
if so lonnie/tonnie will not work with any older accepter
unless u swap out to :mei-cash-flow-refernce-series-330:,
i know done it did it have the tire mark's

ed

some can be just reprogrammed. the old mars 111 series rom chip holds 4 coin profiles. is too small to hold all the coin profiles needed for all these goofy canadian coins (25a 25b 100a 100b 200a 200b) Canada changed the metalurgical content of the coins so each coin now needs their own profile. If the accept window is so wide it accepts both types (nickel (a series) and plated steel coins (b series)) the acceptor will start accepting slugs because the coins are so different.

the 111 can be hacked to accept 1.00 and 2.00 coins by sacrificing the quarters. newer series 111 (after money controls took over the company) are a little more advanced and can be programmed a little better.

yes the mei 9500 series is the most compatible with the unit existing in there, but the rest of our machines are using the money controls SR3 mech. the SR5 is compatible with the programmer we use with the SR3 units so with a little modification, the SR5 is future proof for us.

[ed12]

hi
sorry i detest the sr series
and mei did state that the token reject is still in place
i will be doing field progamming next week to test this
and yes the canadian coin's have gone goffey to say the least
the new tonnie for example has 3 maple leaf's on them

the new toonie is rounder,thus making the accepter thinking it is a token

u said u have a patch for sr5 ?
how about sr3 ? these are used in touch-tune's
and they said that the mfg is still working on the patch
hence the reason i got the mapping for mei's and sr3's so i can convert
also a side note here are u using bill accepter's ? if so what type ?
as the ict's we have have will not accept the newest 5$ bill
and i have little faith they will beable to take the new polymaier when they get realsed in nov 2012

ed

[lilshawn]

  SORRY BOUT THE HIJACK 

u said u have a patch for sr5 ?
how about sr3 ? these are used in touch-tune's

 the SR5 is basically a wide body SR3 so it's nearly identical. the programmer is the same one.

and they said that the mfg is still working on the patch
hence the reason i got the mapping for mei's and sr3's so i can convert

yes we just started loading the new profiles in the last week or so. they had to push back the coin profile release because there was a huge variation in the coins being produced and the acceptance was low. they seemed to have worked it out.

also a side note here are u using bill accepter's ? if so what type ?
as the ict's we have have will not accept the newest 5$ bill
and i have little faith they will beable to take the new polymaier when they get realsed in nov 2012


ed

we are using ict. the p70 series and the A6 series. we have an FP-001 programmer for these as well. the bills acceptors are a little different from the coin programming but if your acceptors are not taking the 2006 issue of the 5 dollar bills then it would simply be a matter of flashing the rom with an updated version.

as for the polymer notes... the release for the 5/10/20 is looking like late 2013 before they hit the streets. we haven't bothered with the 50's and 100's that have already been released as they are very unlikely to be used in our machines... i'm optimistic though... I'll shoot our guy at ICT an e-mail to find out for sure.

[ed12]

ya sorry i did not mean to hi-jack

side note
i have the same programer for the ict's
it is the 2009/10 5$ note that they will not take
i would love to talk private to u about the other

ed

[ronnie-dent]

Ok getting back to my project, has been a while but the place doing the plexi took a month to do!! so thing came to a halt, got it back on Friday so have been working away since

By no means is it finnished but is running, see what you think so far?

[ronnie-dent]

and more

[ronnie-dent]

more yet

[ronnie-dent]

Still need to work out a way to connect the coin mech

Do somthing with the panel where the keypad was

also where the selection rocker was

finnish the pc setup properly, as in get a full copy of album player, get it all so I'm happy with it, setup instant sheller and use my custom boot screen

[Drnick]

I would hack a usb numeric keypad for the coin input, I presume the software will allow you to set any particular key for coin insert.

Did you get the led set I linked to, if so how did you find it to work with, nice and simple?  Does it work well?

[ronnie-dent]

I would hack a usb numeric keypad for the coin input, I presume the software will allow you to set any particular key for coin insert.

Did you get the led set I linked to, if so how did you find it to work with, nice and simple?  Does it work well?

The credit board that was in the juke also has a reducer regulator 18v to 12v for the mech, I may need to change the mech to somthing more standard? not sure what yet

Yes I did use those lights and they are great, very easy to work with, but now I have the amp in there I'm getting some interference from the lights? not looked into that as yet.

cheers Ronnie

[Drnick]

Is the amp running from its own power source?  I presume the leds are running from 12v on PC side of things?

[ronnie-dent]

Is the amp running from its own power source?  I presume the leds are running from 12v on PC side of things?

Yes the amp from mains 240v the pc is running by itself, everything else, lights monitor and touchscreen from and xbox 360 brick

cheers Ronnie

[Drnick]

Its possible that the amp has ground to external chassis and that is causing it.  Not sure on how to check that one, I suppose move the controller and the amp further away from each other and see if the effects lessen. If they are both plugged into the same power strip try moving them onto separate strips.

What amp are you using for this, Car Audio Amp? 12V Portable Amp?  Do you know what the power draw is on the amp itself.

[lilshawn]

The credit board that was in the juke also has a reducer regulator 18v to 12v for the mech, I may need to change the mech to somthing more standard? not sure what yet

Yes I did use those lights and they are great, very easy to work with, but now I have the amp in there I'm getting some interference from the lights? not looked into that as yet.

cheers Ronnie

the board can be modified easily to accommodate whatever mode of switching you need. the regulator is a standard 7812 regulator, you can feed it as low as 15 and up to 30 volts DC. or you can remove it and bypass the regulator and run the mech off of 12 volts supplied from the computer or other 12 volt power supply.

the board is also wired up by NSM to switch between two resistance ratings to indicate the credit, which will not work with any system you would setup, a small modification is needed to switch the board to either supply a high or low signal for your coin in.

let me know what you require and i can tell you how to mod the board acordingly.

[ronnie-dent]

Its possible that the amp has ground to external chassis and that is causing it.  Not sure on how to check that one, I suppose move the controller and the amp further away from each other and see if the effects lessen. If they are both plugged into the same power strip try moving them onto separate strips.

What amp are you using for this, Car Audio Amp? 12V Portable Amp?  Do you know what the power draw is on the amp itself.

I'm using a Rotel RA-840 hifi amp, I have it bolted inside the cabinet so it is grounded via the bolts to earth, the mains wire for it was unearthed?

[ronnie-dent]

The credit board that was in the juke also has a reducer regulator 18v to 12v for the mech, I may need to change the mech to somthing more standard? not sure what yet

Yes I did use those lights and they are great, very easy to work with, but now I have the amp in there I'm getting some interference from the lights? not looked into that as yet.

cheers Ronnie

Brilliant, your just the guy I was looking for to help me with this,

I have a 12v supply to run it so just need to sort out the credit side of things, was going to buy an ipac but thought it was overkill for a couple of inputs, Album player supports credit via key strokes, so whatever you think would be best

thanks Ronnie

the board can be modified easily to accommodate whatever mode of switching you need. the regulator is a standard 7812 regulator, you can feed it as low as 15 and up to 30 volts DC. or you can remove it and bypass the regulator and run the mech off of 12 volts supplied from the computer or other 12 volt power supply.

the board is also wired up by NSM to switch between two resistance ratings to indicate the credit, which will not work with any system you would setup, a small modification is needed to switch the board to either supply a high or low signal for your coin in.

let me know what you require and i can tell you how to mod the board acordingly.

[lilshawn]

if you are just going to hack a keyboard or number pad, that would be pretty easy. most have 5 volts sent out on all the keys and sense when the 5 volts comes in on a particular line when you push the key to connect the switch. of course you would have to verify with a volt meter to be 100% but chances are that's how it is.

there are some small differences in the credit boards between runs. if you take a nice closeup photo of the front and back of the board, i'll paint on the photos the mods that need to be done for your application. pretty easy stuff. couple of wires. cut some stuff off. no biggie. 

[ronnie-dent]

if you are just going to hack a keyboard or number pad, that would be pretty easy. most have 5 volts sent out on all the keys and sense when the 5 volts comes in on a particular line when you push the key to connect the switch. of course you would have to verify with a volt meter to be 100% but chances are that's how it is.

there are some small differences in the credit boards between runs. if you take a nice closeup photo of the front and back of the board, i'll paint on the photos the mods that need to be done for your application. pretty easy stuff. couple of wires. cut some stuff off. no biggie. 

Brilliant this will help me out big time

Will take pics in the morning

cheers Ronnie

[ronnie-dent]

Sorry took me so long but here is the board, hope these are clear enough

[ed12]

hi
is that red pushbutton not the service credit add button ?

ed

[lilshawn]

here you go.

the mech acts like a switch. when you insert a coin it connects the input (shown as the orange dot which you will feed your 5 volts from your keyboard interface) to the coin line for that coin.

likewise if you need it to pull the line to ground you could connect it to ground instead of 5 volts. you can get the ground from the extra ground wire...peel it back off the rest of the ribbon and solder it to the point.

again, test your keyboard and find out for sure how it switches. it might be high, it might be low.

hi
is that red pushbutton not the service credit add button ?

ed

yes that was it's original function. only problem with it was.... it just bypassed the mech and triggered the line directly. if you didn't happen to have that coin line programmed for anything in the jukebox, it didn't work.

[ed12]

hi
thk-u thought as much

ed

[ronnie-dent]

here you go.

the mech acts like a switch. when you insert a coin it connects the input (shown as the orange dot which you will feed your 5 volts from your keyboard interface) to the coin line for that coin.

likewise if you need it to pull the line to ground you could connect it to ground instead of 5 volts. you can get the ground from the extra ground wire...peel it back off the rest of the ribbon and solder it to the point.

again, test your keyboard and find out for sure how it switches. it might be high, it might be low.

Excellent, thankyou, will digest this info and look for a suitable keypad

thanks Ronnie
hi
is that red pushbutton not the service credit add button ?

ed

yes that was it's original function. only problem with it was.... it just bypassed the mech and triggered the line directly. if you didn't happen to have that coin line programmed for anything in the jukebox, it didn't work.

[ronnie-dent]

Ok thanks again, when I looked at this last night had had a few beers

Can make more sense of it now, so I need to check how the donor keypad works first high or low input, if it's high feed +5v to the board and for low -5v to the same point

not got the keypad yet but was looking at this one, nice and cheap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280618648304?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

might that do the job?

thanks Ronnie

[ronnie-dent]

I got the keypad today, opened it up, it's very delicate, do I need to trace the keys I need say 1 2 3 and 4 to the pcb, I think it's ground rather than +5v but not sure?

[Drnick]

In Short Yes,   see the following video for a simple how to.

[ronnie-dent]

This did not work for me! managed to hack the keypad no prob I used botton 1 2 and 3 as they shared a common and my patched in wires when made did activate the keys in notepad

the mech is rejecting everything so it must be the supply to the mech I think?

cheers Ronnie

[lilshawn]

you should be feeding it 12 volts. either via the regulator (supplied with 13.5-30 volts) or if you bypassed the regulator 12 volts from the power for the computer. You can't supply 12 volts to a 12 volt regulator, it won't work.

if you are powering it with a "wall wart" be sure it's capable of supplying at least 2000ma (they say 2.3 amp asumming original style 111) the unit uses about 400mA when opertaing idle. the newer cashflow 111 uses a little less i think. I'm assuming it's a 111, but there is about 3 or 4 variations of the 111 mech as it was released right as mars was being dissolved and MEI was taking over the manufacture.

check your coin channels to make sure they aren't disabled. they should be all connected.

try old coins. they sometimes change coins metal content or weight. your old mech might not read newer coins that have higher tolerances during manufacture. Thickness and weight can vary wildly.

electronic mechs can be finicky. there could be something wrong with the mech as well. which mech is this? the newer style 111 has a diagnostic light on it that shows the status. it flashes appropriately depending if the coin is bad rejected or disabled etc.

[ronnie-dent]

you should be feeding it 12 volts. either via the regulator (supplied with 13.5-30 volts) or if you bypassed the regulator 12 volts from the power for the computer. You can't supply 12 volts to a 12 volt regulator, it won't work.

if you are powering it with a "wall wart" be sure it's capable of supplying at least 2000ma (they say 2.3 amp asumming original style 111) the unit uses about 400mA when opertaing idle. the newer cashflow 111 uses a little less i think. I'm assuming it's a 111, but there is about 3 or 4 variations of the 111 mech as it was released right as mars was being dissolved and MEI was taking over the manufacture.

check your coin channels to make sure they aren't disabled. they should be all connected.

try old coins. they sometimes change coins metal content or weight. your old mech might not read newer coins that have higher tolerances during manufacture. Thickness and weight can vary wildly.

electronic mechs can be finicky. there could be something wrong with the mech as well. which mech is this? the newer style 111 has a diagnostic light on it that shows the status. it flashes appropriately depending if the coin is bad rejected or disabled etc.

Thanks for the info, the mech is a cashflow 330, I cut the regulator off and patched as per your sketch, I'm using 12volts fed from an xbox360 brick which is 16amp but it is also running the lcd screen and led lighting, as far as I can see the mech has no led on it.

cheers Ronnie

[ed12]

hi
cashflow 330's come in a few way's
1 is a 10 pin header on the side
1 is a 17 pin header on the side at the bottom
which ever 1 u have make sure that the inhibit line's are tied to ground
if u need a pinout for the 17 pin job or the 10 pin job
i can post it for u
on a side note here i have never seen a cashflow 330 in a nsm
that's a new 1 on me,as nsm used there own coin accepter
but hey i have been wrong before

ed

[lilshawn]

cashflow 330's come in a few way's
1 is a 10 pin header on the side
1 is a 17 pin header on the side at the bottom

yes, the early 330's had the flat 16 pin flat connector and the newer style 10 pin (2 rows of 5 pins (DIL)

on a side note here i have never seen a cashflow 330 in a nsm
that's a new 1 on me,as nsm used there own coin accepter
but hey i have been wrong before

yeah they changed to a 3 1/2 inch acceptor in the last few models they put out (most ES-V and later...about 95 or 96 they changed). which is good since many of the 5 inch channel types are dying out.

the 330 is still supported by MEI and most vendors...so if it is broke, it should be easy enough to find someone to fix it. "team one repair" and "betson" are the authorized repair depots for the US. We send our MEI stuff to arbortronics for repair cause we're in Canada.

which ever 1 u have make sure that the inhibit line's are tied to ground

all your lines should already be tied to ground to accept the coins (the green jumpers i marked on the right side by the big cable)... these tie the inhibit lines to ground...cutting the jumpers inhibits the coins.

make sure your ground from the xbox supply and the ground of the computer are tied together. if they arent sharing a common ground all kinds of wierdness can result.

other than being toasted, the only other thing i can think may have happened is the coin programming has been corrupted resulting in all coins being rejected. It's not uncommon and not unheard of.

[ed12]

hi
ya i just got my zaper last week from them
and am now using mei in my touchtunes
>arbortronics <,and thk-u for the head's up on the converision that nsm did
.....
and yes u are 100% correct about
>other than being toasted, the only other thing i can think may have happened is the coin programming has been corrupted resulting in all coins being rejected. It's not uncommon and not unheard of.<

and yes make sure :ALL GROUND'S ARE COMMON:

ed

[ronnie-dent]

Thanks guys, I'm a bit confused on the common grounds! I think the method from the keypad is a switch matrix so the 4 keys I have used share the same common, but would that be ground? have not tied ground from the pc, should I take a ground from the usb on the keypad, I thought as long as the mech has it's 12v it should read and accept coins?


cheers Ronnie

[lilshawn]

TTT bump