My new candy cabinet project

[RyogAkari]

Starting monday I get to start working on turning this:





Into something like this:




(A vertical based monitor specifically for shmups/classics)

Ive wanted another candy cabinet since I picked my Neo 25 up back in 2006 and am very happy to have a project to do. Ill be taking out the control panel, model three wiring, model 3 unit, all that stuff and parting it out to raise the funds for buttons/joysticks control panel and wiring it up for a generic jamma. Cant wait to play some fun games on this!

[Gray_Area]

Shouldn't be hard. Swap the CP and put some controls in it, get a JPAC, turn the monitor. Beware that you'll probaby have to disconnect the tube from the chassis. I completely disconnected and removed it, turned it and put it back in.

[opt2not]

Mmmm tri-sync monitors make me so hot...

[rCadeGaming]

That'll be awesome.  Maybe you should try dual-modding it for JAMMA as well as Dreamcast.  How much does an Ikaruga PCB go for?

What games are you thinking of?  What are you going to use for a marquee?

What about joysticks?  Seimitsu LS-40's seem to be popular for shmups because the short engage distance (small dead zone) is ideal.  I like Sanwa JLF's better pivot quality and leverless microswitches; the problem with those is the long engage distance and square gate is great for fighting games, but bad for shmups.  I've got a custom actuator (reduces throw distance) and circle gate for the JLF coming in the mail.  I'm hoping that it'll combine the best of both worlds and make the ultimate shmup stick.  I'll let you know how it turns out if you're interested.

[opt2not]

That'll be awesome.  Maybe you should try dual-modding it for JAMMA as well as Dreamcast.  How much does an Ikaruga PCB go for?

What games are you thinking of?  What are you going to use for a marquee?

What about joysticks?  Seimitsu LS-40's seem to be popular for shmups because the short engage distance (small dead zone) is ideal.  I like Sanwa JLF's better pivot quality and leverless microswitches; the problem with those is the long engage distance and square gate is great for fighting games, but bad for shmups.  I've got a custom actuator (reduces engage distance) and circle gate for the JLF coming in the mail.  I'm hoping that it'll combine the best of both worlds and make the ultimate shmup stick.  I'll let you know how it turns out if you're interested.

Ikaruga does not have a dedicated single PCB. It runs off Naomi hardware and is contained in a cartridge. It would cost $350+ just for the complete Naomi hardware alone, then probably another $200+ for just the Ikaruga ROM cart.

Don't know what you mean by dual-modding, but I wouldn't change the Jamma wiring at all. You can always wire up a Dreamcast VGA Box and controllers inputs to a Jamma edge if you have basic soldering skills, and put it all into a project box. It's not very hard.
Get a Jpac for a PC if you're going with Mame, but for gawdssakes don't destroy the jamma wiring. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches later on if you want to switch hardware.

As for joysticks, if you're a true shmup guy, get the LS-56's or 58's (be sure to get the -01 versions with the attached PCB and harness connectors. Makes hook-up to your panel easy. You'll also need to figure out what mounting plate you need for your panel). They are the shmup stick of choice - and you can get octo-gates with 'em. Great actuation action, and tight throw make these sticks perfect for shooters.
JLF's are great sticks, for fighters, but their throw and actuation distance is just too long to get any precise movements needed in shumps.

[rCadeGaming]

Don't know what you mean by dual-modding, but I wouldn't change the Jamma wiring at all.

I meant wiring both up so that you can switch between them with minimal disconnecting/reconnecting of wires inside, maybe switched somehow.  I'm working on switching between a MAME PC and consoles without any wiring changes.  As for JAMMA, don't they make JAMMA multi-switches or something to switch between multiple boards?  Could wire the DC to a JAMMA harness like you said.

As for joysticks, if you're a true shmup guy, get the LS-56's or 58's (be sure to get the -01 versions with the attached PCB and harness connectors.

The LS-40's have a much smaller engage distance than 56/58's, which is what you want for shmups.  I know the 56/58-01 version's engage is somewhat smaller, but does it beat the 40?

JLF's are great sticks, for fighters, but their throw and actuation distance is just too long to get any precise movements needed in shumps.

Basically what I said.  JLF's have a smoother pivot and leverless microswitches though, so if custom parts can reduce the engage and throw, they should be the best possible stick.

[Vigo]

Not to derail, but can you point me to the HW you picked up to improve your JLF? I am thinking to reduce the throw on mine.

[rCadeGaming]

kowal from Shoryuken sells the actuators:

http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/kowal-custom-parts-4-stiks-shaft-actuator-pivot-wire.156084/#post-6726968

If you send him a PM with what you want and your address, he'll tell you how much and give you his PayPal email.

Toodles from Shoryuken sells the circle gates.  All his stuff is available here:

http://www.godlikecontrols.com/

I have both of these coming in the mail right now, so if you wait a few days I can tell you if it works as well as I'm hoping.  Depending on how it works I may ask Toodles if he can make a smaller circle gate and/or buy his optical sensor (replaces microswitches).

[Vigo]

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!

[opt2not]

I meant wiring both up so that you can switch between them with minimal disconnecting/reconnecting of wires inside, maybe switched somehow.  I'm working on switching between a MAME PC and consoles without any wiring changes.  As for JAMMA, don't they make JAMMA multi-switches or something to switch between multiple boards?  Could wire the DC to a JAMMA harness like you said.

Yes. There are jamma switcher boards you can get for selecting multiple Jamma hardware. This is probably the best option with minimal amount of destruction being done to the original wiring.

But, there is one major piece of info the OP didn't mention, what hardware is he putting in his Blast?  RyogAkari, are you maming this cabinet, or getting it to run off original hardware?

The LS-40's have a much smaller engage distance than 56/58's, which is what you want for shmups.  I know the 56/58-01 version's engage is somewhat smaller, but does it beat the 40?

Incorrect.  They actually have the same engage and throw distance, see kowal's spec pages (translated from polish):
http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/joyLS56.htm
http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/joySLS40.htm

But like I mentioned before, the 56's and 58's are built more ruggedly.
If the OP already has a NEO 25 with the stock sticks on it, he already knows how the 40's feel. Those sticks usually come on NEO cabinets. I've tried an LS-40 in a stock Neo Candy, and I've always felt that the LS-40 felt more "cheaply" made. Even when you disassemble both sticks, you'll notice the 56's/58's are built sturdier, particularly the bases.

Basically what I said.  JLF's have a smoother pivot and leverless microswitches though, so if custom parts can reduce the engage and throw, they should be the best possible stick.

I really don't want to get into yet another "which joystick is better" argument. Ultimately it's your choice to what stick you prefer. I'm just trying to give accurate details based on facts.

[rCadeGaming]

Incorrect.  They actually have the same engage and throw distance, see kowal's spec pages (translated from polish):

That's strange, on the comparison chart on Slagcoin.com the LS-40 is the only one with the engage distance listed as small, while LS-56 is listed as medium.  I'll give it to you that kowal's specs do seem more precise.  Isn't it true that the LS-56-01's PCB mounted microswitches are further from the pivot point, creating a smaller engage distance?  I've heard this before but noticed that neither of these sites document a difference.

I really don't want to get into yet another "which joystick is better" argument. Ultimately it's your choice to what stick you prefer. I'm just trying to give accurate details based on facts.

Agreed.  I'm not the expert on differences between the different Seimitsus, as I've only owned a few.  That's why I'm asking questions.  Sorry for jumping to a conclusion earlier.

Is it not a fact though that JLF's have a smoother pivot?

I know it's a fact that unlevered microswitches are more reliable and consistent.  The levers can't be bent to different degrees, causing the engage points to change.  When you have four microswitches with engage points that have shift differently, things really get messy.  I've gotten a brand new Seimitsu where some directions had closer engage points than others, I measured this personally.  You can bend them back, but it's a mess and who knows how long they will stay like that.

[Franco B]

LS-56-01s are my new weapon of choice 

The engage distance is nice and tight but the post actuation throw is awful, even with the octo-restrictors.

I am however making some new tighter restrictors to remedy this 

[opt2not]

Is it not a fact though that JLF's have a smoother pivot?

What do you mean by "smoother pivot"?  Are you talking about how it feels from going from one direction to another, aka SRK motions?  'Cause if you are, then that makes sense based on their large throw. Or perhaps you're thinking about how well lubed your sticks are...
The large throw is why JLF's are good for fighters, SRK movements, not so much for the small precision movements needed for shmups (but of course, to each's own).

I know it's a fact that unlevered microswitches are more reliable and consistent.  The levers can't be bent to different degrees, causing the engage points to change.  When you have four microswitches with engage points that have shift differently, things really get messy.  I've gotten a brand new Seimitsu where some directions had closer engage points than others, I measured this personally.  You can bend them back, but it's a mess and who knows how long they will stay like that.

Now that's an interesting statement, that I'm calling shenanigans on.
For one, I want to know what you're doing to your sticks for the levers to bend. Have you actually tried bending them? It takes a lot of force to bend the seimitsu switch levers, and I have never seen these levers bending out of regular usage.
Secondly, if you received a stick that has uneven engage points, you'd be best to return it. Sounds to me like you got a dud.

LS-56-01s are my new weapon of choice  

The engage distance is nice and tight but the post actuation throw is awful, even with the octo-restrictors.

I am however making some new tighter restrictors to remedy this  

Finally someone who knows what they're talking about.
Need any testers Franco?  
I missed out on your LS-32 Supa-tight actuators

[HaRuMaN]

perhaps you're thinking about how well lubed your sticks are...

[opt2not]

    

[RyogAkari]

Pictures and updates:


Project start:



Been hard at work cleaning it out. Ive dissassembled most of it and cleaned the areas I could. Some of the screws are stripped on the control panel hinge so I decided for right now not to take that apart. I can reach everything to clean it without taking it apart anyway. Soft Scrub and Goo Gone was my friend!









Ive already taken out a lot of the Model 3 end of the wiring. Anything that I wanted to keep that has extra connectors on it ive bundled up together and zip tied off and Ill stuff it behind the coin box.



Finally got the stickers and crap cleaned off of the monitor bezel (thanks goo gone!). Still need to clean off SUITABLE FOR ALL AGES!!!!11!!11!!!! stickers off the two sides. Then I need to take out the power supply and clean out the machine from behind. After that Ill have scrubbed it out. It was dirty. So dirty that I started with a vacuum first.


Franco is helping me do some of the rewiring of my cabinet. I dont need the big fancy JVS/JAMMA 001 loom that most people get as this is just going to connect to the computer and eventually consoles in the end.  Im having Franco make me a basic jamma connector, no sound, no video, no power, 3 button. Ive ordered normal control panel harnesses for player 1 and 2. He's cutting me a decent break on what the price would be so Im happy.

My wife is choosing the colors and theme for the machine. So far here is what its going to have:



Its a regular control panel but has been painted white. Im hoping its enamel paint and the job is good as we will probalby keep it. The wife wants to go for a sky theme so this would be a good base. If not we will strip it and probably repaint it with a white enamel. She may do some designs and accents later on it as she's the resident artist.

Sanwa JLFs with these tops:



Player one and player two are going to be a mixture of these 2 colors for buttons:





These will be the start buttons:



One player will have 2 of one color with 1 in the middle and the other player vice versa. We have hole covers just incase we ever want to expand.

Marquee that Im receiving in:



We will probably get other marquees in the future especially Bubble Bobble but this is our starter. It comes with an instruction sheet for me to put under the control panel glass.

We'll run Mala as our front end and are designing cloud backgrounds and puffy letters for an overall sky theme. (its a shmups cab amirite?). Arcade's cabinet name will be Blue October Sky.

Ill get pictures out as I get stuff in!

[RyogAkari]

Shouldn't be hard. Swap the CP and put some controls in it, get a JPAC, turn the monitor. Beware that you'll probaby have to disconnect the tube from the chassis. I completely disconnected and removed it, turned it and put it back in.

I was just wondering why you had to do this? Was it that the wires were holding the chassis down in place? Ive undone all the bundles right now and Im betting there is enough slack for me to turn it. Ill investigate heavily before doing it of course. Ill also have another (much more qualified) person with me to help. = )


Also Rcade keep me up to date about your JLF mods.

[rCadeGaming]

What do you mean by "smoother pivot"?  Are you talking about how it feels from going from one direction to another, aka SRK motions?  'Cause if you are, then that makes sense based on their large throw. Or perhaps you're thinking about how well lubed your sticks are...

I mean when moving them at all.  I don't know, JLFs just feel smoother to me somehow.  Part of it could be the lighter spring tension, but I think the design and materials quality of the pivot areas certainly make a difference.  This is also supported by the comparison on Slagcoin.com.  The JLF and JLW are the only sticks with a "pivot quality" rated as "very high," all the Seimitsus are rated "medium," with the exception of the LS-40, which is rated "high."

I clean all my sticks thoroughly (yeah I make sure to rub them out real good), and lube them with Dow Corning Molykote 44 Light, which is supposed to be chemically the same as Shin-Etsu grease.

The large throw is why JLF's are good for fighters, SRK movements, not so much for the small precision movements needed for shmups (but of course, to each's own).

Why do you keep bringing this up as if I don't get it?  First of all, I already stated this exact thing in my first post.  Second of all, you are completely ignoring the things I've talked about to make the JLF suitable for shmups.

Now that's an interesting statement, that I'm calling shenanigans on.
For one, I want to know what you're doing to your sticks for the levers to bend. Have you actually tried bending them? It takes a lot of force to bend the seimitsu switch levers, and I have never seen these levers bending out of regular usage.

I secure this over my sticks and use it to check engage distances:



The engage distances of the individual directions vary depending on the bend of the levers, irregularities in the actuator as it rotates around the shaft, and how accurately the stick resets to exact center when released.  The JLF has the most consistent engage points, due to both its leverless microswitches and its precise build quality.

[opt2not]

I mean when moving them at all.  I don't know, JLFs just feel smoother to me somehow.  Part of it could be the lighter spring tension, but I think the design and materials quality of the pivot areas certainly make a difference.  This is also supported by the comparison on Slagcoin.com.  The JLF and JLW are the only sticks with a "pivot quality" rated as "very high," all the Seimitsus are rated "medium," with the exception of the LS-40, which is rated "high."

"Pivot quality" sounds fairly nebulous, since their only basis is how "smooth" the movement is. But that can be a factor of many things like lubrication, throw, pivot point and shaft length.

But again, as I keep saying, in the end it's all up to your own preference.

Why do you keep bringing this up as if I don't get it?  First of all, I already stated this exact thing in my first post.  Second of all, you are completely ignoring the things I've talked about to make the JLF suitable for shmups.

Forgive me, I have this tendency to not believe anything new members present as so-called facts, regardless if they come to this forum to show off some nicely built custom sticks, or "educate" people about Japanese arcade sensibilities.
I didn't ignore your JLF points, I already addressed both of them. Smoother pivot, which you failed to produce any quantifiable data to back this up, and and lever-less microswitches, which again sounded more happen-stance than anything.
You keep pushing the JLF, which is fine for you, but like I'll say for the last time, it's all up to your own preference. I'm going to leave it at that because I grow tired of chasing you around this topic, and this thread has been derailed enough.

Pictures and updates:


Project start:

Been hard at work cleaning it out. Ive dissassembled most of it and cleaned the areas I could. Some of the screws are stripped on the control panel hinge so I decided for right now not to take that apart. I can reach everything to clean it without taking it apart anyway. Soft Scrub and Goo Gone was my friend!

Ive already taken out a lot of the Model 3 end of the wiring. Anything that I wanted to keep that has extra connectors on it ive bundled up together and zip tied off and Ill stuff it behind the coin box.

Finally got the stickers and crap cleaned off of the monitor bezel (thanks goo gone!). Still need to clean off SUITABLE FOR ALL AGES!!!!11!!11!!!! stickers off the two sides. Then I need to take out the power supply and clean out the machine from behind. After that Ill have scrubbed it out. It was dirty. So dirty that I started with a vacuum first.


Franco is helping me do some of the rewiring of my cabinet. I dont need the big fancy JVS/JAMMA 001 loom that most people get as this is just going to connect to the computer and eventually consoles in the end.  Im having Franco make me a basic jamma connector, no sound, no video, no power, 3 button. Ive ordered normal control panel harnesses for player 1 and 2. He's cutting me a decent break on what the price would be so Im happy.

My wife is choosing the colors and theme for the machine. So far here is what its going to have:

Its a regular control panel but has been painted white. Im hoping its enamel paint and the job is good as we will probalby keep it. The wife wants to go for a sky theme so this would be a good base. If not we will strip it and probably repaint it with a white enamel. She may do some designs and accents later on it as she's the resident artist.

Sanwa JLFs with these tops:


Player one and player two are going to be a mixture of these 2 colors for buttons:

These will be the start buttons:

One player will have 2 of one color with 1 in the middle and the other player vice versa. We have hole covers just incase we ever want to expand.

Marquee that Im receiving in:

We will probably get other marquees in the future especially Bubble Bobble but this is our starter. It comes with an instruction sheet for me to put under the control panel glass.

We'll run Mala as our front end and are designing cloud backgrounds and puffy letters for an overall sky theme. (its a shmups cab amirite?). Arcade's cabinet name will be Blue October Sky.

Ill get pictures out as I get stuff in!

Great progress on the cabinet!  It's looking really clean now!  Don't you just love Goo-Gone?  What are you going to do with the Bass parts?  I vaguely remember someone over at AO looking for these parts... might help you with the part purchases if you can sell 'em off.
 

[rCadeGaming]

Ryo, sorry for the derail.  Anyway, I read here that the US Bass Fishing cabinets came with a Nanao MS-2931 tri-sync monitor:

http://slawdog.net/hc/index.asp?page=Blast+City

If that's still in yours I'm extremely jealous.  How does it look?

Did you play the Sega Bass Fishing for a while before taking apart?  How is it with that controller?  I love bass fishing in real life (trout fishing right now, waiting for warmer weather), but I don't know if I'd have much interest in a game about it.

Are the screw heads stripped or the threads?  Do they screw into metal threads or plastic?  

If it's the heads, or metal threads, you might have to drill the screws.  Not difficult, just time consuming.  Center the bit (might need to tap it with a punch first, use a sharp left handed bit the size of the bolt shaft but not the threads), drill very slowly (you should be cutting tiny shavings out, going fast will just burn up the bit), and keep the bit lubricated with cutting oil (Rapid Tap is great).

If it's just plastic that it's stripped in, you might be get a knife blade or something under the screw head of hinge.  Anything to apply upward pressure so they'll come out while you turn the head.

You said 3 buttons on the JAMMA connector, but the panel is for 6.  Typo? or are you using button plugs.  I would strongly recommend provisions on the harness for up to 6 buttons.  Don't need to use them now, just nice to have in place in case of later changes.

The whole color scheme and theme sounds very classy, can't wait for some pictures.  Have you considered ball tops like this:



http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=368

That marquee is awesome too.  Using a Dreamcast or emulating that game?

Also Rcade keep me up to date about your JLF mods.

Just waiting on stuff in the mail.  I'm hoping it will be the best thing for shooters, as well as a good general stick for most other genres.  Although I love it for fighting games, I don't really like the stock JLF with the square restrictor for anything else.  I'm going to try and put both next to each other on my cabinet, and switch between the two with this:

http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/

I didn't ignore your JLF points, I already addressed both of them. Smoother pivot... lever-less microswitches...

Not at all what I was talking about, I was referring to fixing the shmup shortcomings of the JLF (long engage and throw distances)  with custom parts. 

You keep pushing the JLF...

I'm not pushing the JLF.  As I've said, I haven't tested these parts yet, so I don't know if it will work well or not.

[RyogAkari]

To reply to your items, it does indeed have the Nanao monitor left in it = )
Im very excited. It does have the credit burn in it (like everyone elses) but the monitor is so nice I dont want to get rid of it. Its only completely noticeable on white screens anyway and I have an arcade or two thats worse ^_~


We considered all joystick and balltop options. I have LS-32s and seimitsu buttons on my neo candy so we wanted to go sanwa this time around.

I wont lie, I was going for "budget" in mind so I considered only used control panels. The one pictured popped for me on Arcade Otaku and Im really hoping the paint job on it is nice as I think a white control panel would be awesome for the theme. My wife and I looked at ball tops from a few companies and she immediately fell in love with the bubble ones located on paradise's site so we ordered 2 30mm ones. Best price for JLFs was the NIKINGStore.com so we ordered from them. I have button covers coming in for the slots we wont use. My wife will decide if she wants a 4, 2, 3 button setup or a 1, 2, 3, button setup after she's played a few rounds on it. We are also talking about having 1st player and 2nd player different as I seem to have some friends who have different opinions on what is best so there would be something for everyone.


The Sega Bass Fishing was sadly broken when I got it (which I knew about beforehand. Arcade was sold within an hour and a half drive for $300 so whose going to complain, no? Also being that I live out in the middle of nowhere such a short drive was unbelieveably impressive). When i got it home I booted it up and gave it a go. For awhile I thought it was actually going to work but in the end it was the spinner on the reel that didnt work so once I had a fish on the line I couldnt reel it in. Motor, buttons, the joystick on it, etc all worked fine. Im definetely looking to get rid of it. Marquee/model 3/model 3 wiring that I decided to take out of it/Control Panel Im wanting to sell but only after I get it completely 100% working on my end (Im sure I didnt take out the wiring needed for sound or monitor control or stuff like that but best to be safe than sorry). If anyone is interested They can feel free to message me. If you find someone that wants them they are always welcome to message me here or at arcade otaku as well. I should have my cabinet completely up and running (I hope) by around the first of may.

I have the kick harness wiring still just incase I decide to reorient my monitor and introduce some capcom fighting games or something like that. If need arises Id just wire buttons 4/5/6 into my computers adapter through that and then by the extra harness needed to wire in the buttons. My friend develops specialized no lag JAMMA to USB devices that outruns and outguns the JPAC any day of the week. Very expensive but for those needing 15khz its video amplifier is ten times the ultimarc's device and modern day tools cannot easily calculate the lag on it (as in there isnt any. 1 or 2 ms at most, but probably not even that much). The device was originally built for Dance Dance Revolution arcade machines to run Stepmania with lights however seeing first hand how well the device responds to input you cant really go back to something like the JPAC afterwards (however its far more expensive as well). Ill have to get some pictures of the device mounted and running when its all said and done.


The screw heads are stripped. Not bad enough that it is necessarily impossible to take out but for right now Im concentrating on the bulk of what I have to do and will get to some of the details later. I had to use toothpicks and the sort to scrape out all the coca-cola spilled into the control panel. There was so much it actually had started eating away at the plastic. Not enough to become a liability, just a little on the surface. Enough to scar it.

As for the games Ill run it will start as Demul/MALA and then Ill move on to dreamcast once Ive built a JAMMA to controller adapter (or if anyone has any good recommendations for just that Im all ears).


I havent actually tested the 31khz capability yet. That will be tomorrow. Ive heard that some Nanao's suffer from the lack of ability to switch resolutions due to black goop. Ill hook up my computer I have set to 640x480 and hope for the best. In the very least I have a spare ega/vga/svga monitor I can throw in it though Id like to save that for something else. Hard to get nice japanese 29in monitors like that.

[rCadeGaming]

I wouldn't be too heartbroken about not being able to play Bass Fishing, just curious about it.  I certainly would have paid that if I came across the same deal.

My friend develops specialized no lag JAMMA to USB devices that outruns and outguns the JPAC any day of the week. Very expensive but for those needing 15khz its video amplifier is ten times the ultimarc's device and modern day tools cannot easily calculate the lag on it (as in there isnt any. 1 or 2 ms at most, but probably not even that much). The device was originally built for Dance Dance Revolution arcade machines to run Stepmania with lights however seeing first hand how well the device responds to input you cant really go back to something like the JPAC afterwards (however its far more expensive as well).

Can you give us some more details\links on this?

As for the games Ill run it will start as Demul/MALA and then Ill move on to dreamcast once Ive built a JAMMA to controller adapter (or if anyone has any good recommendations for just that Im all ears).

Normally, I'd recommend the MC Cthulhu, as it's lagless works with most major consoles including PC.  If 31kHz is working, you could get a lot of consoles working plug and play with a JAMMA to MC-Cthulhu/Component-to-VGA-Converter adapter.  PC, PS2, Gamecube, Xbox, Wii, PS3.  You could also do Nintendo, Turbografx, Super Nintendo, PSX, etc. but the video would be a little more complicated.

For the Dreamcast, the MC Cthulhu supports it, but I'd stick with a pad hack.  The problem is the VMUs.  The MC Cthulhu doesn't support them, so you have to plug one into another controller on port 3.  Then you have to tell the games to load from there, instead of just letting them auto-load from port 1 like normal.  It's just a pain in the butt that can be prevented by using a hacked PCB with a big VMU attached.  I guess you could use an MC Cthulhu for player 2.

Anyway, if you do a pad hack, make sure to get a controller with 6 face buttons, which avoids the mess of interfacing buttons to the analog triggers.

[RyogAkari]

About the Jamma to USB device. Here are videos of it running Stepmania on a Dance Dance Revolution:

http://www.youtube.com/user/RyogAkari?ob=0&feature=results_main


Ill probably do some videos of it running computer games once Ive gotten it up and going. Cost isnt for the faint of heart though. Its $275 before international shipping. Works like a dream though. Here is a shot of it hooked up to a dance dance revolution:

[RyogAkari]

Pictures will be incoming for the day. First though, does anyone know if the Nanao 2931 has a 1ohm to 75ohm switch on it?

[RyogAkari]

Well I dont think there is a switch. Ill have to look into amplifying the video. My picture shape is a little curved in at the bottom on the sides. I wish there was an adjustment for it. = /
I may end up looking at replacing it after all if it isnt going to look all that good.

Anyway pics are incoming:




Switches to 31 no problem!





Took out the glass. It was covered in paint on the back side (looked factory but still defeats the purpose). I assume that this piece is here so you can put the instruction sheet behind it. Wouldnt do me much good if I couldnt see out of it. Wife taught me a trick once about using a razor blade to scratch off glue and other stuff on glass so I tried it out and it worked fine. Here is the progression:







And it back in place waiting for ready to receive instructions:




This will probably be the last that I do to the machine for the weekend. Still have to clean off the stickers on the sides and clean up the main front door then Ill be ready for controls/wires/computer!

[RyogAkari]

found secret pincushion adjustment and 75ohm connector. Still deciding on whether or not to keep monitor. Probably will for now.

[rCadeGaming]

Switches to 31 no problem!

Sweet!

Looking good, keep us updated.

[JoeB]

About the Jamma to USB device. Here are videos of it running Stepmania on a Dance Dance Revolution:

Ill probably do some videos of it running computer games once Ive gotten it up and going. Cost isnt for the faint of heart though. Its $275 before international shipping. Works like a dream though. Here is a shot of it hooked up to a dance dance revolution:

Interesting device (surprised by some of the bashing it does for JPAC) .. but I do wonder why you need it?  Doesn't it seem a bit of an overkill? In your Blast City, all you're doing is hooking up buttons and joysticks. **insert name of key encoder here** is more than fast enough for any joysticks/buttons game, and will cost you hundreds less. (you don't need 1-2ms response time for any shooter/fighter)

Also, does this device support key shifting? It's a feature I use a lot in my NAC.  It minimizes the use of extra buttons preventing your machine having a franken-panel.  Here's how I use key shifting:  (my shift key is holding player 1 button):

- player 1 + joystick up - pause game
- player 1 + joystick down - exit out of MAME back to Front End
- player 1 + player 2 - coin insert

I assume you're going to be using MAME (and not real PCB's).  Since you have a 31khz capable monitor, why would you want to go through a video amp, rather than directly connect to a video card?  If you're looking for a good MAME distro, take a look into using GroovyMAME and it's modified ATI drivers.  Not only is it easier to setup than soft15, but with a good (semi-modern) AGP video card, you will also be able to play other good PC arcade games on your machine (Street Fighter 4!)

[RyogAkari]

JoeB - Its more of a I work with the person creating them, get a good discount, support the cause sort of thing. = )

The standard model minimaid comes with the video amp and components, mine actually will be missing them since I specifically dont need them.

Ill be using MALA to start with as my front end and will expand from there.


Anyway, got some stuff in so on with the update!












Coming along. Will be a couple weeks now till I get to turn the monitor now but still all is well = )
Hoping to get the sticks/wires in soon!

[emphatic]

Looks good! 

[RyogAkari]

Nothing real new to post so here is a picture of the balltops waiting for their joysticks to come in the mail.





Franco is finishing up the jamma side of the harness. Ive received in the control panel side wiring. I went ahead and purchased JLF custom actuators from Kowal since this is going to be a shmup dedicated cab. Im on the fence about getting shorter shafts. I dont actually mind the standard lengths, really it will just depend on what my wife thinks since Im designing the cab to her tastes (insert wife/shaft length joke here) since she is the huge shmups fan in the family. Ill have some time next week to clean off the remaining stickers and get it aesthetically ready minus the header light.

Basically its a game of hurry up and wait for parts to come in. = D



EDIT: Oh yeah, I purchased these little figurines to sit up near the instruction sheet on the control panel:




Its not from a game or anything but it is from my wifes favorite anime series and I think they'll be a cute decoration. SHHH, She doesnt know yet. 

[rCadeGaming]

Deathnote, nice.

I did finally get one of kowal's custom actuator in the mail yesterday.  The thing about them is that they only reduce throw distance, not engage distance.  To actually improve input speed and get an advantage in shmup gameplay, you need to reduce engage distance.

I must apologize for my post above, stating that they reduced engage distance, I had WRONG information.  I hope that you didn't order the actuators based on this.

Obviously, the shorter shaft would reduced reduce both the engage and throw distance of the ball top due to simple geometry, but I don't think I would like the feel of the shorter shaft length.  My grip style would not work comfortably with a lowered ball top.  Both Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks are designed to have the ball top positioned at a standard height of 23-24mm above the control panel.

I still have an idea to reduce both throw and engage on the JLF without affecting mounting/ball top height, but it may not require kowal's actuators.  I'll post more info when I get time to work on it, hopefully early this week.

[RyogAkari]

Well in the end its nice to have options. Ill probably mount a custom to one joystick and play through a game without and play through a game within. Whichever Im happy with is what Ill go with and if I decide to try a short shaft I may order one of those.

decisions decisions. = D

[RyogAkari]

Joysticks came in so I spent my hours I work at the store assembling them. I also put on the harnesses that I have. Franco is finishing up the Jamma side along with my atomiswave wiring for another cabinet tonight so I should be rocking this sometime next week!

[BurgerKingDiamond]

looks good. I also have a Blast City coming sometime in the next 4-6 weeks (group buy from Japan). I can't wait.

[RyogAkari]

Blast loom on the way. Love Franco's work. = D

[rCadeGaming]

Big news!  I've finished my JLF mod, engage distance is 4mm, same as a LS40/56.  Throw is 7.5mm with the square gate or 9.5mm with the circle.  It is the ultimate shmup stick!!!!  I'll put up a how-to thread with pics when I get more time, hopefully tomorrow night.

[emphatic]

Big news!  I've finished my JLF mod, engage distance is 4mm, same as a LS40/56.  Throw is 7.5mm with the square gate or 9.5mm with the circle.  It is the ultimate shmup stick!!!!  I'll put up a how-to thread with pics when I get more time, hopefully tomorrow night.

Cool!

[RyogAkari]

Men at Work.



Holy Crap this was hard to turn and get back on. I had to bend the clips on the bottom to get the bezel to connect right. Still working on getting it to clip the bezel completely.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

I know man. Rotating those giant 29" CRTs is no joke. I hope you didn't pull your back out.