Author Topic: Popping/clicking sound problem (Hantarex Polo 25) (Read 15073 times)

MLew · « **on:** October 21, 2011, 09:20:55 am »

Hey guys, first off sorry for no pics, havent had the time, but this is really bugging me ill do my best to describe my problem

I fired my mk2 conversion and the screen didn't boot up. I believe it's a Han polo monitor What's happening is a clicky/popping sound consistently about every second where the line from the suction cup hooks into the flyback. There is a small spark when this happens at the exact point where the line meets the flyback. After several "clicks" I can smell some electrical burn and there is slight smoke.

I haven't left it on long enough in this state to see if it plays blind, but the startup sound does ring when I fire it up, leading me to believe it's isolated in the monitor.

I've had the monitor in there for about a year without issues.

I think this sounds like a bad flyback, but wanted to consult the experts before I try anything.

Thx

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2011, 10:34:02 am »

yes change the flyback mate

MLew · « **Reply #2 on:** October 21, 2011, 10:53:34 am »

I'm new to repairing, is there much soldering involved in changing a fb? I'm comfortable enough working with monitors, but am always looking for protips. Any links for some good reading? Thx

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** October 21, 2011, 11:28:24 am »

good soldering skills,try using solder mop instead of a sucker and make sure you get focus and screen wires round the correct way

MLew · « **Reply #4 on:** October 21, 2011, 12:46:55 pm »

By correct way, do you mean to the correct contacts as they were before or is there a specific way they need to be connected? Sorry, I'm in the learning stage...

grantspain · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2011, 01:06:21 pm »

you have 3 wires coming from the flyback,
anode-which is obvious with the cap
focus-normally thicker wire of the two bare end wires
screen-remaining wire

MLew · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2011, 01:40:02 pm »

Righto, time to call bob Roberts I guess

MLew · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2011, 02:44:40 pm »

Might this also be a HOT issue? Is the HOT inside the flyback, or is it a separate piece?

grantspain · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2011, 03:19:51 pm »

well you have already stated that you can see arcing from the flyback so naturally the flyback is shorting
the horizontal output transistor is a seperate entity

there are loads of posts on polo repairs on this forum alone

corycet · « **Reply #9 on:** November 06, 2011, 02:58:49 am »

Replace the HOT with the flyback as this component can be stressed when the flyback goes bad. Also, check for bad solder joints on the entire board while you have the chassis out. Some people may recommend installing a cap kit since you have the chassis out. Bob Roberts sells the flyback and capkit for 25$ and I think the HOT is 5 dollars as well.

MLew · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2011, 10:23:31 am »

Well I Ordered a new flyback from bob, hopefully this resolves the issue. I got this monitor brand new and picture is outstanding, so ima wait on a cap kit.

Didn't see your post corycet before I ordered it, so hopefully the HOT wasn't damaged. I'll post results soon

corycet · « **Reply #11 on:** November 13, 2011, 08:45:07 pm »

You should be ok with replacing only the flyback in most cases. Worst case scenario is that you will have replace a shorted hot in the near future.

MLew · « **Reply #12 on:** November 14, 2011, 12:16:05 am »

I appreciate the replies. I'll let ya kno what happens. Thx

fredster · « **Reply #13 on:** November 14, 2011, 05:08:00 pm »

The other thing it could be is there is a black ground wire that wraps around the tube. It goes to the neck board with a single connector. A lot of people cut these wires and think it's okay because the monitor didn't need it or something stupid like that.

What it does is pick up the residual static charge that comes off the tube itself on the OUTSIDE. If this wire is missing, the tube will crack or pop ever few seconds/minutes as the tube gets enough voltage to discharge. Make sure that ground wire that wraps around the tube is in place and the ground wire is running to it's port on the neck board.

It's important. Sometimes someone may leave this wire off because they cut it or they simply forgot to put it back on the neck board when the neck board was disconnected. Just having a chassis ground on the tube isn't good enough.

MLew · « **Reply #14 on:** November 14, 2011, 09:28:04 pm »

yea that was alright. I got the flyback off here, but as I was trying to gently twist/pull the focus lead thats connected in the socket at the neckboard, and the wire snapped in half! leaving me with a small protuding wire from the neckboard socket, any thoughts how to get that sucker out? From what Ive read, its not a solder, and saw that my method (gently twist/pull) had worked before for other people. I jus need to release the dog on the wire, so I can pull it out, but am failing lol

MLew · « **Reply #15 on:** November 14, 2011, 11:35:29 pm »

ok, well I fixed that. Got the flyback replaced. Plugged everything in...and no popping/arcing!!

But...the game is playing blind, sound works (which i suspected it did before, just never left it on long enough to hear due to the arcing, just heard the beep at startup).

I ask the experts, whats the next step? The HOT?

Also, I jus checked, it was hard to tell, but I didnt notice neck glow! I could be wrong, but that might be a possibility....

grantspain · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2011, 01:54:38 am »

hmmm,second person with flyback from bob roberts that is not working and same issues

anyone fitted one of these lopt with no issues?

MLew · « **Reply #17 on:** November 15, 2011, 07:33:46 am »

So this has happened to someone else? Youthink the flyback may be bad? It sounds like the mmonitor is getting voltage,though it sounds a bit different than before (the HV hum) but for all intents and purpose, sounds normal.

grantspain · « **Reply #18 on:** November 15, 2011, 01:41:38 pm »

i would contact Bob Roberts and find out if these flyback are original hrdiemens or chinese builds,ask if they have been tested by him

MLew · « **Reply #19 on:** November 15, 2011, 02:29:15 pm »

I just emailed him. I'll post any answers.

corycet · « **Reply #20 on:** November 15, 2011, 03:31:42 pm »

Feel the front of the screen, if you have high voltage you should feel static on the screen, also make sure you don't have the screen control turned all the way down.
There is a wire that oftens gets folded up under the flyback during shipping, so make sure that all flyback pins have been soldered in.
You mentioned that you could not see the heater glowing. Sometimes it is hard to see, but you can check to see if the heater is open by checking pins 5 and 6 on the neck board with a DMM using the continuity/diode setting and make sure the monitor is turned off when checking this.

MLew · « **Reply #21 on:** November 15, 2011, 04:21:06 pm »

I will check that. And yes, I made sure that wire that's usually folded up was in place.

I doubt it's getting power the more i think bout it. I didn't hear the static-y sound on the screen when I started her up. As far as pins 5/6, are they labeled, or are you counting left to right?

Thank you for the help.

MLew · « **Reply #22 on:** November 15, 2011, 04:33:04 pm »

Here's part of his response
"HR was not the original & in fact they only make replacements & with a poor
track record in some instances. All flybacks other than the HR made in Spain
are made in Asia & have been for as long as I can remember.

I've been actively hunting for such a thing as a bad flyback... never
thinking I could possibly find a bad coil of wire... but just to dispell the
myth. The closest I've ever come was this one that someone sent me:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/df.html"

I think I might have messed something else up when the original lopt went.

grantspain · « **Reply #23 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:18:26 pm »

whats worrying is that this is the second post on forum in last few weeks for hanty polo replacement flyback that is not working,original faults have been either an arcing flyback like yours or in the case of the other post it was working but the member wanted to install a new flyback-now not working
it would be good to get one of these over to me to test so we can prove they are 100% correct
the only other thing i can think of is if you have the screen volts and focus wires reversed-but i doubt it

MLew · « **Reply #24 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:30:51 pm »

Right, Bob had mentioned that has happened. but that's definitely not the case here lol.

grantspain · « **Reply #25 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:53:15 pm »

Quote from: Gogan on November 15, 2011, 05:30:51 pm

Right, Bob had mentioned that has happened. but that's definitely not the case here lol.

you in the U.S or U.K?

MLew · « **Reply #26 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:23:15 pm »

I'm in the US (Michigan), here are a few pics...

The old flyback was arcing from where I circled there,

I noticed that on the bottom of the chassis, kinda next to the flyback, there was some a bit of burning/darkening here:
(the burned part is directly under that white brick lookin thing (sorry, still learnin lol)

here is the new soldered on flyback:
The pin on the top of the pic wasnt soldered into the old one, nor did it look like it ever was, so I didn't.

and misc. rest of the board

corycet · « **Reply #27 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:41:53 pm »

Cut the excess wire on the flyback pin. It looks like it has about a 1/2 inch to an inch of excess wire. It is probably shorting to the monitor frame when you put it back in the game. The unsoldered pin you mentioned is correct.

MLew · « **Reply #28 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:45:59 pm »

oh wow, I hope that's not it! stupid...

good lookin

(btw, dont mind the name change, jus trying to keep the same identity throughout the internetzz)

corycet · « **Reply #29 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:53:06 pm »

The burn mark is common and is normal because the resistor gets very hot. For the most part it wont cause any problems, but sometimes the solder joint gets nasty and needs resoldering.

MLew · « **Reply #30 on:** November 15, 2011, 09:37:06 pm »

well, I clipped the lead that was long, and it didn't change anything. Game plays blind, but the monitor doesn't power up.

I'm not a stud at testing connections and whatnot, any help with how/what to try testing, Im game.

fredster · « **Reply #31 on:** November 15, 2011, 10:48:50 pm »

If it doesn't power up, you will have to check if it's getting power from the P/S. Make sure your fuses are good, etc. You have test to see if you have B+. If you have B+, then you have a good power supply.

You gotta do that when the power is on. Put the black lead on the chassis, and try and pick a point at the end of one of the big resistors that are near the voltage regulator. Poke around in there with the red lead and see what you can see. As long as you don't touch the chassis with your hand, you should be good. If you have B+, that's good. If not, try one thing before tearing all that apart.

If you hear it start up for a second, then shut down, you can check the shutdown, or Xray circuit and make sure it's okay. That would mean replacing the transistor there at least.

If you do find you are getting nothing, then you have to move to the horizontal deflection circuit, and probably replace the HOT. The horizontal deflection circuit drives the HV system.

That should get it up.

MLew · « **Reply #32 on:** November 16, 2011, 01:44:21 am »

ok, I will try that tomorrow. My research has told me that a lot of times, if the flyback goes the way mine did (the original arcing one) then it usually takes the HOT with it.

Again, thanks for all the help guys, you are invaluable to me. Much appreciated.

EDIT: I know that the monitor doesn't even try to power up when plugged in.

fredster · « **Reply #33 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:38:00 am »

Let me suggest this, you don't have to buy Randy Fromm's videos anymore. He's posted them on youtube.

CRT monitors-Part 1of 4

If this link doesn't work, it's Randy From CRT Montiors Part 1 of 4. There are 4 - 2 hour lectures on how to repair monitors from the ground up. As much trouble as you are having, spend the time to watch these from start to finish. Randy Fromm's explanation may go a long way to explain what can't be done is a post.

You can also access some of his technical info, and I'm sure you will have a much better understanding after you watch this lecture. It would cost upward of $1500 and a week of seminars to get this any other way.

MLew · « **Reply #34 on:** November 16, 2011, 04:01:30 pm »

I will do that. Thx. I heard his big blue book is pretty invaluable as well

MLew · « **Reply #35 on:** December 02, 2011, 11:05:54 am »

I replaced the HOT with a new one. Didn't change anything. Upon inspection of the old one, it appears to read fine on my DMM (roughly got same numbers as the new one)

Havent had the time to sit with the Fromm monitor videos yet. Not sure where to look next.

I did notice that the line that goes into the neckboard socket from the flyback (focus or screen, can't remember which!) seats inside the hole, but is not quite as tight as the one I removed. I had said that a piece broke off inside, but thought I got it out. Mayb there still a piece in there? Either way, that shouldn't much matter cuz I can tell it is holding it enough to make the connection. I even tried fiddling with it when I plugged it in to see if SOMETHING happened. Nothing.

I don't know if I asked this already, but what could cause the flyback to arc the way it did in the first place? There were no cracks in it, and it arc'd from the anode line goin into the flyback (see pic from previous post)

MLew · « **Reply #36 on:** December 05, 2011, 08:47:05 pm »

I checked around, and I know I have ~127vac going into the chassis. I checked test point TP6 (as per Randy Fromm's flowchart, and I have 0v. From what I gather, thats part of the B+?

I'm assuming under the metal cage on the chassis is the power supply area of the chassis, and the source of the problem. Any ideas?

corycet · « **Reply #37 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:00:43 pm »

Have you checked the power supply fuse yet? location is f101.

MLew · « **Reply #38 on:** December 06, 2011, 10:31:36 am »

Yea. It looks good, and checked good.

MLew · « **Reply #39 on:** December 06, 2011, 04:46:46 pm »

Btw, are there any other fuses on the chassis besides the one next the the AC input?


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news