Author Topic: Popping/clicking sound problem (Hantarex Polo 25) (Read 15056 times)

MLew · « **on:** October 21, 2011, 09:20:55 am »

Hey guys, first off sorry for no pics, havent had the time, but this is really bugging me ill do my best to describe my problem

I fired my mk2 conversion and the screen didn't boot up. I believe it's a Han polo monitor What's happening is a clicky/popping sound consistently about every second where the line from the suction cup hooks into the flyback. There is a small spark when this happens at the exact point where the line meets the flyback. After several "clicks" I can smell some electrical burn and there is slight smoke.

I haven't left it on long enough in this state to see if it plays blind, but the startup sound does ring when I fire it up, leading me to believe it's isolated in the monitor.

I've had the monitor in there for about a year without issues.

I think this sounds like a bad flyback, but wanted to consult the experts before I try anything.

Thx

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2011, 10:34:02 am »

yes change the flyback mate

MLew · « **Reply #2 on:** October 21, 2011, 10:53:34 am »

I'm new to repairing, is there much soldering involved in changing a fb? I'm comfortable enough working with monitors, but am always looking for protips. Any links for some good reading? Thx

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** October 21, 2011, 11:28:24 am »

good soldering skills,try using solder mop instead of a sucker and make sure you get focus and screen wires round the correct way

MLew · « **Reply #4 on:** October 21, 2011, 12:46:55 pm »

By correct way, do you mean to the correct contacts as they were before or is there a specific way they need to be connected? Sorry, I'm in the learning stage...

grantspain · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2011, 01:06:21 pm »

you have 3 wires coming from the flyback,
anode-which is obvious with the cap
focus-normally thicker wire of the two bare end wires
screen-remaining wire

MLew · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2011, 01:40:02 pm »

Righto, time to call bob Roberts I guess

MLew · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2011, 02:44:40 pm »

Might this also be a HOT issue? Is the HOT inside the flyback, or is it a separate piece?

grantspain · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2011, 03:19:51 pm »

well you have already stated that you can see arcing from the flyback so naturally the flyback is shorting
the horizontal output transistor is a seperate entity

there are loads of posts on polo repairs on this forum alone

corycet · « **Reply #9 on:** November 06, 2011, 02:58:49 am »

Replace the HOT with the flyback as this component can be stressed when the flyback goes bad. Also, check for bad solder joints on the entire board while you have the chassis out. Some people may recommend installing a cap kit since you have the chassis out. Bob Roberts sells the flyback and capkit for 25$ and I think the HOT is 5 dollars as well.

MLew · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2011, 10:23:31 am »

Well I Ordered a new flyback from bob, hopefully this resolves the issue. I got this monitor brand new and picture is outstanding, so ima wait on a cap kit.

Didn't see your post corycet before I ordered it, so hopefully the HOT wasn't damaged. I'll post results soon

corycet · « **Reply #11 on:** November 13, 2011, 08:45:07 pm »

You should be ok with replacing only the flyback in most cases. Worst case scenario is that you will have replace a shorted hot in the near future.

MLew · « **Reply #12 on:** November 14, 2011, 12:16:05 am »

I appreciate the replies. I'll let ya kno what happens. Thx

fredster · « **Reply #13 on:** November 14, 2011, 05:08:00 pm »

The other thing it could be is there is a black ground wire that wraps around the tube. It goes to the neck board with a single connector. A lot of people cut these wires and think it's okay because the monitor didn't need it or something stupid like that.

What it does is pick up the residual static charge that comes off the tube itself on the OUTSIDE. If this wire is missing, the tube will crack or pop ever few seconds/minutes as the tube gets enough voltage to discharge. Make sure that ground wire that wraps around the tube is in place and the ground wire is running to it's port on the neck board.

It's important. Sometimes someone may leave this wire off because they cut it or they simply forgot to put it back on the neck board when the neck board was disconnected. Just having a chassis ground on the tube isn't good enough.

MLew · « **Reply #14 on:** November 14, 2011, 09:28:04 pm »

yea that was alright. I got the flyback off here, but as I was trying to gently twist/pull the focus lead thats connected in the socket at the neckboard, and the wire snapped in half! leaving me with a small protuding wire from the neckboard socket, any thoughts how to get that sucker out? From what Ive read, its not a solder, and saw that my method (gently twist/pull) had worked before for other people. I jus need to release the dog on the wire, so I can pull it out, but am failing lol

MLew · « **Reply #15 on:** November 14, 2011, 11:35:29 pm »

ok, well I fixed that. Got the flyback replaced. Plugged everything in...and no popping/arcing!!

But...the game is playing blind, sound works (which i suspected it did before, just never left it on long enough to hear due to the arcing, just heard the beep at startup).

I ask the experts, whats the next step? The HOT?

Also, I jus checked, it was hard to tell, but I didnt notice neck glow! I could be wrong, but that might be a possibility....

grantspain · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2011, 01:54:38 am »

hmmm,second person with flyback from bob roberts that is not working and same issues

anyone fitted one of these lopt with no issues?

MLew · « **Reply #17 on:** November 15, 2011, 07:33:46 am »

So this has happened to someone else? Youthink the flyback may be bad? It sounds like the mmonitor is getting voltage,though it sounds a bit different than before (the HV hum) but for all intents and purpose, sounds normal.

grantspain · « **Reply #18 on:** November 15, 2011, 01:41:38 pm »

i would contact Bob Roberts and find out if these flyback are original hrdiemens or chinese builds,ask if they have been tested by him

MLew · « **Reply #19 on:** November 15, 2011, 02:29:15 pm »

I just emailed him. I'll post any answers.

corycet · « **Reply #20 on:** November 15, 2011, 03:31:42 pm »

Feel the front of the screen, if you have high voltage you should feel static on the screen, also make sure you don't have the screen control turned all the way down.
There is a wire that oftens gets folded up under the flyback during shipping, so make sure that all flyback pins have been soldered in.
You mentioned that you could not see the heater glowing. Sometimes it is hard to see, but you can check to see if the heater is open by checking pins 5 and 6 on the neck board with a DMM using the continuity/diode setting and make sure the monitor is turned off when checking this.

MLew · « **Reply #21 on:** November 15, 2011, 04:21:06 pm »

I will check that. And yes, I made sure that wire that's usually folded up was in place.

I doubt it's getting power the more i think bout it. I didn't hear the static-y sound on the screen when I started her up. As far as pins 5/6, are they labeled, or are you counting left to right?

Thank you for the help.

MLew · « **Reply #22 on:** November 15, 2011, 04:33:04 pm »

Here's part of his response
"HR was not the original & in fact they only make replacements & with a poor
track record in some instances. All flybacks other than the HR made in Spain
are made in Asia & have been for as long as I can remember.

I've been actively hunting for such a thing as a bad flyback... never
thinking I could possibly find a bad coil of wire... but just to dispell the
myth. The closest I've ever come was this one that someone sent me:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/df.html"

I think I might have messed something else up when the original lopt went.

grantspain · « **Reply #23 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:18:26 pm »

whats worrying is that this is the second post on forum in last few weeks for hanty polo replacement flyback that is not working,original faults have been either an arcing flyback like yours or in the case of the other post it was working but the member wanted to install a new flyback-now not working
it would be good to get one of these over to me to test so we can prove they are 100% correct
the only other thing i can think of is if you have the screen volts and focus wires reversed-but i doubt it

MLew · « **Reply #24 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:30:51 pm »

Right, Bob had mentioned that has happened. but that's definitely not the case here lol.

grantspain · « **Reply #25 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:53:15 pm »

Quote from: Gogan on November 15, 2011, 05:30:51 pm

Right, Bob had mentioned that has happened. but that's definitely not the case here lol.

you in the U.S or U.K?

MLew · « **Reply #26 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:23:15 pm »

I'm in the US (Michigan), here are a few pics...

The old flyback was arcing from where I circled there,

I noticed that on the bottom of the chassis, kinda next to the flyback, there was some a bit of burning/darkening here:
(the burned part is directly under that white brick lookin thing (sorry, still learnin lol)

here is the new soldered on flyback:
The pin on the top of the pic wasnt soldered into the old one, nor did it look like it ever was, so I didn't.

and misc. rest of the board

corycet · « **Reply #27 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:41:53 pm »

Cut the excess wire on the flyback pin. It looks like it has about a 1/2 inch to an inch of excess wire. It is probably shorting to the monitor frame when you put it back in the game. The unsoldered pin you mentioned is correct.

MLew · « **Reply #28 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:45:59 pm »

oh wow, I hope that's not it! stupid...

good lookin

(btw, dont mind the name change, jus trying to keep the same identity throughout the internetzz)

corycet · « **Reply #29 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:53:06 pm »

The burn mark is common and is normal because the resistor gets very hot. For the most part it wont cause any problems, but sometimes the solder joint gets nasty and needs resoldering.

MLew · « **Reply #30 on:** November 15, 2011, 09:37:06 pm »

well, I clipped the lead that was long, and it didn't change anything. Game plays blind, but the monitor doesn't power up.

I'm not a stud at testing connections and whatnot, any help with how/what to try testing, Im game.

fredster · « **Reply #31 on:** November 15, 2011, 10:48:50 pm »

If it doesn't power up, you will have to check if it's getting power from the P/S. Make sure your fuses are good, etc. You have test to see if you have B+. If you have B+, then you have a good power supply.

You gotta do that when the power is on. Put the black lead on the chassis, and try and pick a point at the end of one of the big resistors that are near the voltage regulator. Poke around in there with the red lead and see what you can see. As long as you don't touch the chassis with your hand, you should be good. If you have B+, that's good. If not, try one thing before tearing all that apart.

If you hear it start up for a second, then shut down, you can check the shutdown, or Xray circuit and make sure it's okay. That would mean replacing the transistor there at least.

If you do find you are getting nothing, then you have to move to the horizontal deflection circuit, and probably replace the HOT. The horizontal deflection circuit drives the HV system.

That should get it up.

MLew · « **Reply #32 on:** November 16, 2011, 01:44:21 am »

ok, I will try that tomorrow. My research has told me that a lot of times, if the flyback goes the way mine did (the original arcing one) then it usually takes the HOT with it.

Again, thanks for all the help guys, you are invaluable to me. Much appreciated.

EDIT: I know that the monitor doesn't even try to power up when plugged in.

fredster · « **Reply #33 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:38:00 am »

Let me suggest this, you don't have to buy Randy Fromm's videos anymore. He's posted them on youtube.

CRT monitors-Part 1of 4

If this link doesn't work, it's Randy From CRT Montiors Part 1 of 4. There are 4 - 2 hour lectures on how to repair monitors from the ground up. As much trouble as you are having, spend the time to watch these from start to finish. Randy Fromm's explanation may go a long way to explain what can't be done is a post.

You can also access some of his technical info, and I'm sure you will have a much better understanding after you watch this lecture. It would cost upward of $1500 and a week of seminars to get this any other way.

MLew · « **Reply #34 on:** November 16, 2011, 04:01:30 pm »

I will do that. Thx. I heard his big blue book is pretty invaluable as well

MLew · « **Reply #35 on:** December 02, 2011, 11:05:54 am »

I replaced the HOT with a new one. Didn't change anything. Upon inspection of the old one, it appears to read fine on my DMM (roughly got same numbers as the new one)

Havent had the time to sit with the Fromm monitor videos yet. Not sure where to look next.

I did notice that the line that goes into the neckboard socket from the flyback (focus or screen, can't remember which!) seats inside the hole, but is not quite as tight as the one I removed. I had said that a piece broke off inside, but thought I got it out. Mayb there still a piece in there? Either way, that shouldn't much matter cuz I can tell it is holding it enough to make the connection. I even tried fiddling with it when I plugged it in to see if SOMETHING happened. Nothing.

I don't know if I asked this already, but what could cause the flyback to arc the way it did in the first place? There were no cracks in it, and it arc'd from the anode line goin into the flyback (see pic from previous post)

MLew · « **Reply #36 on:** December 05, 2011, 08:47:05 pm »

I checked around, and I know I have ~127vac going into the chassis. I checked test point TP6 (as per Randy Fromm's flowchart, and I have 0v. From what I gather, thats part of the B+?

I'm assuming under the metal cage on the chassis is the power supply area of the chassis, and the source of the problem. Any ideas?

corycet · « **Reply #37 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:00:43 pm »

Have you checked the power supply fuse yet? location is f101.

MLew · « **Reply #38 on:** December 06, 2011, 10:31:36 am »

Yea. It looks good, and checked good.

MLew · « **Reply #39 on:** December 06, 2011, 04:46:46 pm »

Btw, are there any other fuses on the chassis besides the one next the the AC input?

grantspain · « **Reply #40 on:** December 06, 2011, 06:02:29 pm »

i would love to get my hands on this chassis to find out whats going on
no other fuses on this chassis btw

MLew · « **Reply #41 on:** December 06, 2011, 09:09:06 pm »

lol, I bet you would. It's a bit perplexing to me. I'm going to keep researching and trying different things. I'll get it. I'm betting on a power issue (obviously, since there IS none)

I just got another Han Polo monitor (with a sparking flyback, go figure!) that I got dirt cheap. Maybe I'll swap my new flyback into it and see if it brings THAT one to life. The monitor is a bit more used than mine, but it will help determine if the flyback is good. (and get me up and running for a bit!!)

Quote from: grantspain on December 06, 2011, 06:02:29 pm

i would love to get my hands on this chassis to find out whats going on

Where abouts you located?

corycet · « **Reply #42 on:** December 07, 2011, 12:35:27 am »

I have never seen a new flyback that is bad, but that doesn't mean its not possible. Before you swap the flyback check your diodes and switching transistor. I have seen d105 cause dead power supplies. If your semiconductors test good then you can desolder the secondary side of the switching transformer and see if the power supply starts. If it does then we have to troubleshoot the deflection circuit. If not then you will need to continue troubleshooting the power supply circuit.

I was also wondering if you hear anything from the monitor on power up? Or is it completely silent?

MLew · « **Reply #43 on:** December 07, 2011, 07:41:34 am »

Completely silent. I thought I was getting some noise, but was just the speakers humming a bit.

I'll look into testing those points. Do I need to take diodes out of circuit to test or with power on?

corycet · « **Reply #44 on:** December 07, 2011, 06:49:54 pm »

You can test them in-circuit but test them with the power off. Use your diode check on your DMM. A typical diode should read open one direction and roughly .5 volts the other direction.

MLew · « **Reply #45 on:** January 06, 2012, 08:45:53 am »

Quote from: corycet on December 07, 2011, 12:35:27 am

I have never seen a new flyback that is bad, but that doesn't mean its not possible. Before you swap the flyback check your diodes and switching transistor. I have seen d105 cause dead power supplies. If your semiconductors test good then you can desolder the secondary side of the switching transformer and see if the power supply starts. If it does then we have to troubleshoot the deflection circuit. If not then you will need to continue troubleshooting the power supply circuit.

I was also wondering if you hear anything from the monitor on power up? Or is it completely silent?

Ok, had to take a break on this due to holidays and work and whatnot, but I'm back on it!

I'm not sure what the switching transistor, the semiconductors or switching transformer look like. Or where they are located in the chassis. I'd appreciate any insight on that. Apologies for the newb electronic questions.

JBARAHONA55 · « **Reply #46 on:** January 16, 2012, 10:08:51 pm »

Hi
Check this link jbmonitorrepair.com they can fix it fast cheap
ask for jose cell 732-877-6464

MLew · « **Reply #47 on:** March 13, 2012, 08:12:03 am »

Ok. After much troubleshooting, I decided to try n swap the new flyback to another chassis I had. Lo and behold, it works! But I am getting some weird lines on the top of the screen. They seem to go away if I shrink the vertical (vsync?)

If I extend the image to cover the entire monitor screen, I get what you see in the pictures. Any of u guys know/have seen this issue? Like I said, the lines all but disappear when I shrink the vertical size enough...

crash41301 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 13, 2012, 12:16:21 pm »

You should REALLY find time to watch the Randy From videos on youtube. I know its very long, but you'll come out of them knowing a ton more about this than you do now.

Lines - Possibly capacitors?

MLew · « **Reply #49 on:** March 13, 2012, 12:29:56 pm »

I was thinking caps too, I watched the first one and it's got a ton of info! I will eventually watch the rest, but time is very limited for me now.

grantspain · « **Reply #50 on:** March 13, 2012, 03:10:31 pm »

caps in vert circuit

MLew · « **Reply #51 on:** March 13, 2012, 04:44:10 pm »

Quote from: grantspain on March 13, 2012, 03:10:31 pm

caps in vert circuit

Your knowledge is much appreciated.

grantspain · « **Reply #52 on:** March 13, 2012, 05:52:23 pm »

change the following,
c139 1000uf 35v
c144 1000uf 35v
c142 47uf 25v

MLew · « **Reply #53 on:** March 14, 2012, 07:43:26 am »

Quote from: grantspain on March 13, 2012, 05:52:23 pm

change the following,
c139 1000uf 35v
c144 1000uf 35v
c142 47uf 25v
[/quote

c142 is the small cap next to c144 correct? Wanna be sure I'm reading the board right..

grantspain · « **Reply #54 on:** March 14, 2012, 02:15:16 pm »

i am reading from a schematic and can't remember off hand-they are around the tda1675 ic103


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