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Author Topic: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Jan 20th - E-brake Success) *Pic Warning*  (Read 18878 times)

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Malenko

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any more progress ?

Its your fault Ive sunk like $300 into a pole position cabinet to make it a "real" racing cab. Well, its gbeef's fault too  :lol
If you are helping someone and expecting something in return, you are doing business not kindness.

brad808

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any more progress ?

Its your fault Ive sunk like $300 into a pole position cabinet to make it a "real" racing cab. Well, its gbeef's fault too  :lol

;) I'm glad there is getting to be more driving cabs that way we all get a bit more information floating around.

Progress is still happening but last week kind of sucked I had a leak in my bathroom so this week I've been drywalling and painting, pluming etc. not a whole lot if time for the driving cab.

I ordered buttons for my view panel that I'm still waiting to come in. I ended up going with square ones even though i really wanted rectangular. Guess I'll have to wait and see when they come in.

I still need to properly wire up the controls to the donor pad. Right now they are kind of half assed soldered onto the pad where the button presses instead of to the connectors. I'm sort of holding back a bit to do that until my buttons come in so i only have to take the dash apart once and do everything.

I also have a hand brake from a sega rally game I'm hoping to get mounted soon. I don't think I'll be able to bolt it directly because of how the seat lifts up so i may need to create some sort if bracket for it.

I happened to see another logitech wheel online this week about 30 mins away from my house for $20 bucks so i went and grabbed that. Figured why not it's better to have it just in case. Plus i can use it for setting games up outside of my cab.

Still messing with settings and parameters surrounding the force feedback. It's proving to be a pain because of how different all the games are. I had it working great in scud race and then loaded up Daytona 2 and it was way off. Super model is also very on in development so it's sort of difficult to change all the parameters.

The other problem I'm having is making sure the amc works nicely when the logitech is connected to the ps2 because there isn't any software configuration that you can change around so it all has to be hardware based.



That's basically where I'm at now.... Still tons of work to do and not enough hours in the day ;) hopefully in the next fee days I'll be able to get a bunch more done on it though as i finished most of my house repairs last night

Malenko

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I look forward to the progress, Im still trying to figure out why Model 2 emu wont send force feedback, prolly the roms I have. If you have a buncha PS2 games you dont want, I'll pay you the cost of shipping them to me =)
If you are helping someone and expecting something in return, you are doing business not kindness.

brad808

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I look forward to the progress, Im still trying to figure out why Model 2 emu wont send force feedback, prolly the roms I have. If you have a buncha PS2 games you dont want, I'll pay you the cost of shipping them to me =)

My girlfriend's dad already got dibs on the ones I picked up with that wheel. I may have some in the next while though because about two Weeks ago i bought a hard drive adapter for my ps2 so i wouldn't have to change discs in the driving cab. I haven't had a chance to get a hard drive yet though but once i do and get the games loaded up on it i probably won't need the discs any more.

gbeef

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any more progress ?

Its your fault Ive sunk like $300 into a pole position cabinet to make it a "real" racing cab. Well, its gbeef's fault too  :lol

Lol.. sorry man. I'm doing an upgrade on mine also.. This cabinet is like a money pit!...
Ill be posting updated pics soon:)
« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 02:11:14 pm by gbeef »


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brad808

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I should also mention that today I've been toying with another idea in my head. I'm beginning to get the feeling this isn't going to be a 'set it and leave it type system'. From what i can gather every game on every system has different force feedback strengths etc.

I've been thinking that I may be  able to replace the 12 turn put in the amc for the reference in gain with a pot mounted somewhere around the front of my cab hidden with a knob on it. That way i can easily adjust my reference in gain depending in what game i load up. I would simply need a 12 turn pot with the same value as the one in the amc and solder it onto the connection points.

Just a thought at this point. I'm open to opinions suggestions on it.

gbeef

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Heres the thing. you could do that if your planning on using the cabinet for yourself. The reason why im upgrading my wheel like yours and badmouth is because when i have company over they reef on the wheel. Also messing around with settings is not in the cards.


Havent you tried the Logitech profiler for each emulation?.
I got me EX wheel and the FFB is weaker then my G27.

« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 09:34:01 pm by gbeef »


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brad808

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Heres the thing. you could do that if your planning on using the cabinet for yourself. The reason why im upgrading my wheel like yours and badmoon is because when i have company over they reef on the wheel. Also messing around with settings is not in the cards.


Havent you tried the Logitech profiler for each emulation?.
I got me EX wheel and the FFB is weaker then my G27.

Correct that pot would have to be hidden and only used by myself. my guests are not the brightest, i must have told at least 5 people how to choose a car in scud race at my Halloween party even though it's flagging right across the screen to select using the wheel and use the gas pedal to choose it. For my"guest setup" I'll need a very few games with no setup or thinking required simply sit down hit start.

I think with enough patience I'll be able to setup all the PC games to a useable state with software adjustments and logitech profiler.


for myself it would be nice for using the ps2 (which my guests won't be able to use, too many menus etc) because the games are so drastically different and there is no software control.



As far as your ex wheel being weaker then your g27 from what i was able to research they both use the same force feedback language there would only be differences in motor specs gears etc. they should theoretically output the same signal if you hooked either one up to the amc. This again is only based off information i got online though and may be inaccurate

brad808

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OK I got my buttons in today so I ripped the dash out and have it back on the bench. Unfortunately the buttons are too long though. They hit one of the motor mount brackets and there is really no way I can cut it out.





Not sure what I'm going to do, I'll have to think on it a bit. Worst case I will have to order new buttons. Hopefully find a daytona view panel or something that is reasonably priced.

Now that I'm happy with everything working electrically I'll be doing the pad hack and mounting the servo amp, power supply, all that good stuff and doing the "real wiring" that will hopefully be a lot more organized.

This is the hand brake from the sega rally I hope to attach in the near future as well.



Its sort of hard to see in these pics but the base of the sega rally seat is quite a bit taller so I'm going to have to create some bracket on the emergency call seat because of how tall the hand brake mount is. Alternatively I could try and switch bases (which doesn't look like a direct swap either).




BadMouth

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OK I got my buttons in today so I ripped the dash out and have it back on the bench. Unfortunately the buttons are too long though. They hit one of the motor mount brackets and there is really no way I can cut it out.
Not sure what I'm going to do, I'll have to think on it a bit. Worst case I will have to order new buttons. Hopefully find a daytona view panel or something that is reasonably priced.

You haven't read my or gbeef's thread, or watched my video about my new dash?  :lol

To save you the trouble, gbeef cut the center section out of his buttons to make them shorter.
I used video lottery terminal (VLT) buttons from happ, and I paid out the ass for them.
I still had to cut my start button down.  They turned out awesome, but I haven't put any pics up.
(for some reason, I can't seem to wrap up the wiring for the steering wheel buttons & can't decide on where to put an exit button)

EDIT: That E-brake is friggin' awesome!
« Last Edit: November 14, 2011, 08:22:15 pm by BadMouth »

brad808

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OK I got my buttons in today so I ripped the dash out and have it back on the bench. Unfortunately the buttons are too long though. They hit one of the motor mount brackets and there is really no way I can cut it out.
Not sure what I'm going to do, I'll have to think on it a bit. Worst case I will have to order new buttons. Hopefully find a daytona view panel or something that is reasonably priced.

You haven't read my or gbeef's thread, or watched my video about my new dash?  :lol

To save you the trouble, gbeef cut the center section out of his buttons to make them shorter.
I used video lottery terminal (VLT) buttons from happ, and I paid out the ass for them.
I still had to cut my start button down.  They turned out awesome, but I haven't put any pics up.
(for some reason, I can't seem to wrap up the wiring for the steering wheel buttons & can't decide on where to put an exit button)

EDIT: That E-brake is friggin' awesome!

Busted  :-[. Serves me right then I suppose. Thanks for the tip I'll have take a look and see if it's something I can modify or if I need to search for new ones.

The ebrake is cool, it has a nice sturdy "arcade" feel to it. I haven't opened it up but it has good feeling resistance to it almost like the brake pedals with rubber in them etc to give it a more authentic feel. I just need a good way to mount it up.

gbeef

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whats wrong with the original buttons?
couldn't you just hack something with those?

Nice ebrake!...


My cabs
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My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab
My Racing Cabinet Cab [URL=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=

brad808

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whats wrong with the original buttons?
couldn't you just hack something with those?

Nice ebrake!...

The original buttons work great and it's what I have been using. The only problem is there is only two of them a start and one view. I'd like to have a start and four view buttons for the games that support it. Not really a game changer if I don't have four but it would be nice.

gbeef

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yeah i hear ya. i have a sega rally which was only 2. I did manage to score a 5 button Daytona.
Where did you find the e-brake from ive been looking all over the place for one!.. nice find.


My cabs
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brad808

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yeah i hear ya. i have a sega rally which was only 2. I did manage to score a 5 button Daytona.
Where did you find the e-brake from ive been looking all over the place for one!.. nice find.

I'm looking at a Daytona view panel on Ebay but it's $50. I'm sure I'll find something eventually but i don't "need" it... Especially don't "$50 need it".

The ebrake actually came from the guy that i got the cabinet from. He gave me an extra seat (with the ebrake),  an extra model 3 ffb motor and mount, and an extra set of gas and brake pedals which was pretty cool.

brad808

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Brackets off ebrake:


Inside ebrake, has 2 rubber stops on each end and a rubber resistance in the middle at the top.


1 3/4" square bar from my weight bench










Can't go right on the seat mount because it's unconfortably close to the seat that way and won't be able to adjust seat back

gbeef

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nice. mod. looking for an e-brake now but have no clue what game.:(
That's awesome.
Hey just wondering what pot sizes you used for your wheel and peddles?


My cabs
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X-men Arcade Remixed
My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab
My Racing Cabinet Cab [URL=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=

BadMouth

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nice. mod. looking for an e-brake now but have no clue what game.:(
That's awesome.
Hey just wondering what pot sizes you used for your wheel and peddles?

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115186.msg1221938#msg1221938
bottom of reply #11  

(stuck at work and don't feel like working ;D  )

brad808

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nice. mod. looking for an e-brake now but have no clue what game.:(
That's awesome.
Hey just wondering what pot sizes you used for your wheel and peddles?

I'm not entirely sold on the ebrake mount yet, i haven't attached it just mock fit. Im going to re think the idea of trying to attach the taller seat. I.ve been thinking today that i might pick up some new diamond plate for the floor and mount the seat. If i don't get diamond pate then there will be weird holes because the seats mount way different.I'll have to Wait till i get home to check.

It's been a little slow going lately for some reason life is leaving me no spare time so i booked the second week of December off to get a good amount of work done.

Pots we're 100kohm for stearing, 50kohm for pedals.


Edit: I believe the game it came from was a sega rally 2
« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 04:58:16 pm by brad808 »

gbeef

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yeah i hear ya its always busy around the holidays so far so good.
Ill try looking at Sega rally 2. but i don't recall an ebrake on those machines. I know they vary for sure.
Did you get your pots from eBay? or is there another place you can suggest?



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brad808

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Yea I just did a quick google search and it looks like there is a few different cabinet styles

http://www.google.ca/imgres?q=sega+rally+championship+arcade&start=151&num=10&um=1&hl=en&safe=off&biw=1440&bih=775&tbm=isch&tbnid=6AQhTLbpxfK7UM:&imgrefurl=http://www.executiveamusements.co.uk/product/101/17/sega_rally_2_twin_arcade_driving_game&docid=FTOacA2km-oYDM&imgurl=http://www.executiveamusements.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/Rally%2525202%252520shot%2525202.jpg&w=800&h=850&ei=C83KTpbCAYj00gHKp6k0&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=314&sig=110496786837212288909&sqi=2&page=6&tbnh=126&tbnw=119&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:151&tx=67&ty=46

you can see them in this pic.


I bought the potentiometers a local electronic supply stores. I'm sure you can find some on ebay or the likes but you might be better off just taking your gear that goes onto the pot into a store so you can find a decent match. Don't stress too much if the shaft on the pot isn't exact as long as it can be modified. As an example I couldn't find any pots with a flatted shaft only full round shafts so I bought the round ones and took a dremel tool with a grinding stone and flattened the one end so it would fit my gear properly.
Another tip is to make sure you GET "linear" potentiometers. DO NOT get logarithmic pots (They are usually used for volume control) and not suitable for this type of application.

brad808

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New FFB comparison video:

new 12v power supply on donor wheel




uploading another video now showing some boring stuff regarding mount and wiring



« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 08:42:21 pm by brad808 »

brad808

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #62 on: December 05, 2011, 08:57:34 pm »
Here is the other video showing boring stuff, just for people that want a bit of help. Nothing exciting for the average person in this one


ScottoKong

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #63 on: December 05, 2011, 10:06:25 pm »
Thanks Brad - very helpful. "Pretty Exciting Hey!"   :lol

BadMouth

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #64 on: December 06, 2011, 11:13:15 am »
Thanks for the vid.  :cheers:
I'm sure it will be very helpful to people doing this hack.
I need to get mine wrapped up, but have had too much other stuff going on.

brad808

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Thanks Brad - very helpful. "Pretty Exciting Hey!"   :lol

No problem, hopefully helps clear a bit up. 

It actually says "pretty exciting eh!".......I'm Canadian! :D


Trust me i hear you on not having time. Remember that wall i said i was repairing two months ago after a plumbing incident...... Yea still working on that too ;)

brad808

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #66 on: December 07, 2011, 07:42:17 pm »
*** Disclaimer - this is mainly my experiment/ troubleshooting of the night***

OK so after spending the last few hours working on tweaking the ffb effects I've discovered quite a bit. The back and forth "rattle" is caused anytime the "centering feedback" or "spring feedback" is above 2.5-3V output from the logitech. My thoughts about this are that because the resistance is so much less with the happ/sega gears vs the logitech gears that it requires much less to center the wheel without "overshooting" so to speak and have to constantly try and correct itself. Could also have a bit to do with the gear ratios being a bit different. I would assume the numbers would be slightly different depending on full setup (servo amp, power supply used on either amp or logitech)

The Centering feedback seems to be in menus, and while not in a race. For instance the centering feedback will work without even an application loaded up.
The spring feedback seems to be in race, not even in application because menus etc will still center with this turned off. in race spring feedback is what controls the centering not "centering feedback"
hope that makes sense.

what I'm about to say applies to both centering and spring depending whether you are either not in application/race (centering), or in race (spring)

When in windows manager/logitech profiler I can have the ffb effects up as high as I like (until my power supply for the logitech reaches full that is - 12V) with no negative reaction from the wheel. If I have the centering feedback above 12-14% in this case showing 1.8V I have no negative effects as far as rattle is concerned. When the voltage is above 2.5-3 the output from the amc will go from a steady 0V at center to 24V at full lock in a "linear" i suppose manner. When the centering feedback is above the percentage that = over 3V the output of the amc will go from 0V at center (12 oclock) to 24V at about 2 oclock (maybe 10-20% of full lock).

The reason the "rattle" will return depending on which game is loaded up seems to be in how the game deals with centering feedback, with all other feedback effects being irrelevant. example - I load up scud race in menus and standing still in a race (no other force feedback effects but centering/spring) has at most 2.5V while pulling the wheel full lock, plays fine, load daytona, Menus and in race not moving most it will pull centering feedback is 1.8 volts, plays fine. Load up daytona 2, Menus fine, standing still in race with wheel at full lock is 3.8 volts and causes "rattle". While driving in daytona 2 all other force feedback effects such as wall smashes etc are fine, but for some reason the centering feedback is much higher and causes issues.

Now I know very little about force feedback "languages/programing" if you will but it seems as though it would be ideal to have individual control over the separate parameters on a per game basis. model 2 emulator seems to have access to each of the parameters to tweak but on an emulator wide basis. Model 3 emulator doesn't appear to have any control over the separate paramenters, just basic ffb on or ffb off. As far as I can see logitech profiler can set the individual parameters on a per application basis.



Those are my findings of the night, still trying to work it all out, but that is where I am at the moment



Oh yea managed to get a daytona view panel as well.



EDIT: Brainstorming idea - Have each rom attached to a different emulator (model 3.1.exe, model 3.2.exe, model 3.3.exe) and use logitech profiler to setup a profile for each exe with different ffb parameters. That might allow individual games to have separate ffb effects while still being able to use a front end to load each game. Just each game would technically be using its own version of the emulator.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 08:12:29 pm by brad808 »

BadMouth

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #67 on: December 07, 2011, 11:01:16 pm »
For reference, settings for individual games can be set in the Supermodel cfg file like so:
Code: [Select]
[ scuda ]

DirectInputConstForceMax = 400
DirectInputSelfCenterMax = 100
DirectInputVibrateMax = 200
DirectInputFrictionMax = 0

Unfortunately, with Daytona 2, centering feedback is not controlled by DirectInputSelfCenterMax.
Changing DirectInputSelfCenterMax has no effect in daytona2.
Both effects and centering force is controlled by DirectInputConstForceMax

Some more info on this here:
http://www.supermodel3.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=97&p=904&hilit=DirectInputSelfCenterMax#p904
Nikk offers an explanation on the next page and sent an alternate build to the guys who were having issues.
Maybe the next build will have some type of adjustment built in.

I'd pretty much came to the same conclusion you did about making alternative exes and correcting it with profiler.

Of course, since only Daytona 2 and Scud Race support ffb at the moment, you could lower the strength in logitech profiler until Daytona 2 behaves, then crank it up in the cfg for Scud Race. DirectInputSelfCenterMax works as expected for Scud Race.
EDIT: guess that would just make for weak feedback in Daytona 2
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 11:17:50 pm by BadMouth »

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #68 on: December 08, 2011, 06:13:54 am »
For reference, settings for individual games can be set in the Supermodel cfg file like so:
Code: [Select]
[ scuda ]

DirectInputConstForceMax = 400
DirectInputSelfCenterMax = 100
DirectInputVibrateMax = 200
DirectInputFrictionMax = 0

Unfortunately, with Daytona 2, centering feedback is not controlled by DirectInputSelfCenterMax.
Changing DirectInputSelfCenterMax has no effect in daytona2.
Both effects and centering force is controlled by DirectInputConstForceMax

Some more info on this here:
http://www.supermodel3.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=97&p=904&hilit=DirectInputSelfCenterMax#p904
Nikk offers an explanation on the next page and sent an alternate build to the guys who were having issues.
Maybe the next build will have some type of adjustment built in.

I'd pretty much came to the same conclusion you did about making alternative exes and correcting it with profiler.

Of course, since only Daytona 2 and Scud Race support ffb at the moment, you could lower the strength in logitech profiler until Daytona 2 behaves, then crank it up in the cfg for Scud Race. DirectInputSelfCenterMax works as expected for Scud Race.
EDIT: guess that would just make for weak feedback in Daytona 2

Awesome information man, thanks a lot for that. It's going to be like gold for me next week while I'm setting up my front end and software tweaking each game. From this point on I'm going to be focussing on software related settings as I'm quite happy with where the hack is from a hardware standpoint. Clearly you have discovered much more of the individual ffb effects then I have! looks like I have some more reading to do. At this point though I'm feeling confident that I will be able to properly setup and tweak all pc based games and emulators to have a very nice system.

This may however be the "death" of having the ps2 in the cabinet. It doesn't appear that there is any proper way to control individual aspects of the force feedback. Most games that I have loaded up have something very general (over all strength, low, medium, high). Basically stuck with whatever the creator of the game has the "centering feedback" and "effects feedback" set at so to speak. If those two settings are very close together then the overall force feedback would have to be lowered too much to bring the "centering Feedback" into the proper range for my wheel that the "effects feedback" is unusually low. If the difference between the two is very large then the game would work fine because I could simply lower the overall strength (either from settings or possibly a potentiometer) to bring the value associated with "centering" into the correct range, while still having usable "effect feedback".

It may not be the complete end to having the ps2 in the cabinet but it is definitely a big blow. There are a lot of games though (and a lot of kick ass games that I would want to play on my cabinet) so I might have to go through each game and see which ones will fit into the range that I need to use. For the time being though the PS2 will be on the back burner and my focus will be getting/ setting up a new pc in the cabinet.

BadMouth

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #69 on: December 08, 2011, 10:17:33 am »
I'll try to find time this weekend to do a Supermodel write-up.
There are a lot of "tricks" to get the most out of it.

I have Scud Race, Scude Race Plus, Daytona 2, Daytona 2PE, & Lemans 24 (w/ working shifter and fog disabled) on my cab.
The graphics in Sega Rally 2 are still too messed up for my taste.

I'd eventually like to do a setup guide for each emulator, but ones like Demul and Vivanonno rely on autohotkey scripts that need to be tweaked depending on your specific setup and OS.  Just about every script that I wrote on my main vista pc needed to be altered to get it to work on my driving cab.  I have a fear that if I post my scripts, it will just result in an endless stream of new members complaining that they don't work for them.

Driving cabs aren't for the plug n play crowd.  ;)
(but once set up, they are well worth it)

brad808

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #70 on: December 15, 2011, 04:16:20 pm »
Well I made a quick update video and it failed to load so here is whats been happening:

- Bought a new computer. This is what I ended up with
Asus p5g41t-m LX
Dual core e6700 @3.3ghz
4gig kinston ram
3450 series video card 256mb ram

At first I tried the new i3 2120 processor thinking I would get good performance in mame but not so much. For some reason my old e3300 overclocked to 3ghz outperformed it. The i3 was giving me stuttering in the cruisn games and I couldn't live with it so I went with the older and cheaper (but in this case better) e6700. As for video cards I tried 1gig 5xxx series card, was a no go, kept defaulting to 4bit colours. Tried 512 en210 series card, also a no go. Ended up going with the same card as in my mame cab and it works perfect.


- In the process of setting up all games in their own folder with each attached to their own emulator. This gives me individual profiles in logitech profiler as well as each game having their own emulator.ini file so I can modify ffb effects on a per game basis.

- Got my sequential shifter working in model 2 games using a modified script for glovepie.

Things I need to keep working on:
- Would like to find out how I can possibly setup an auto script so that my glovepie script will run/stop when model 2 is running/stopped.

- Would also like to find out a good way to setup a hyperspin wheel with all of my individual emulators/games.



Hopefully I can get my video up and I'll post it

brad808

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Re: Sega Model 3 Multi Driving Cabinet (Dec 5th - New FFB Video) *Pic Warning*
« Reply #71 on: December 22, 2011, 11:02:50 pm »
Got my daytona view panel in today! Had to get that installed nice and quick before the weekend. I'm glad I ended up finding one for a reasonable price because I'm sure if I stuck the square buttons in there I would have ended up changing them at some point for the ones I really wanted.



I used the original harness that connects the the view panel. Ended up breaking the common line for the start button and wiring up separately due to the whole weird wiring on the driving force.

From marks:
                                       
From Pin #   To Pin #    Button
8   12   Square
8   13   Cross
8   14   Circle
8   15   Triangle
9   14   Start
9   15   Select



I used the main line for 8 and then broke it connected my own for 9. Put diodes on the opposite ends near the driving force pcb. Cut off all pcb's for the pads and wired directly into the connector. Makes for a much neater mess behind my wheel ;)

As far as hardware is concerned It's almost done in my eyes. Only other thing I might consider adding besides the ebrake (which hasn't been installed because I'm just not happy with it yet) is a 4 speed shifter. I say might because I'm not convinced I want one. The gear up/gear down has been working good for me so far but I may run into problems once I start setting up mame. Pretty sure most games that used 4 way shifters in mame won't accept up/down style. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it I guess.

The cabinet is getting to that dangerous stage though where it's fully playable and that makes for a few very unproductive evenings  :cheers:


Edit: I should also add that I haven't started my front end yet. Up until this point on the weekends when I have friends over I've just been loading up a game for the night. One that I've already got completely setup and won't cause problems just so we have something to play. I've been more focused on setting up the individual games and force feedback to perfection vs getting a bunch of unusable games into my front end. My plan now that I have a few games that are ready for prime time is to start my front end and then slowly perfect more games and add them in one at a time...... until I have every racing game known to man.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2011, 11:14:47 pm by brad808 »

ScottoKong

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Great work Brad.

I'm about a month behind you.  I'm not even thinking about the frontend / individual game settings yet - kinda dreading it!  So I hope to learn from your efforts!

My servo amp and new graphics card turned up today.  I'll be off to by a 24v PSU tomorrow and hopefully I'll get the FFB working over the Xmas break!

Merry Xmas  :cheers:

Scotto

gbeef

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    • arcadepix.com
do you have any more pics of that panel i need to solder mine also. Thanks for the numbers on PIN! wicked work!
Also do you have any ideas on how to light the buttons?
« Last Edit: December 23, 2011, 11:46:52 am by gbeef »


My cabs
4 Player Arcade
X-men Arcade Remixed
My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab
My Racing Cabinet Cab [URL=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=

brad808

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do you have any more pics of that panel i need to solder mine also. Thanks for the numbers on PIN! wicked work!
Also do you have any ideas on how to light the buttons?

I'll try and get some more pics up so you can see a little better what exactly I did. I have an idea of how I'm going to light the buttons but at this point its just an idea I haven't put it into practice. Basically what's left on the harness is 5 or 6 wires which I assume are to light each button individually (again haven't put any of this into practice and didn't have too much time last night to dink around with it). My plan is to tap into my computers power supply from one of the molex connectors and use the 12v from there to power all the lights. Basically anytime the computer is on all the lights will be on as well, no real plan as of right now to control them individually. May work, may not Ill know better when I rip the dash off again to take some more pictures I'll check a little closer.


Just incase you haven't seen it this is where I got the numbers for the logitech wiring. It's very specific to the logitech driving force but real good info.
http://home.comcast.net/~mshaker/marks_arcade_006.htm

brad808

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Made a quick little video about changing potentiometers for anyone interested



I haven't updated the project thread in a little while but the project definitely isn't dead. I'll make a video shortly to show where it's at and some of the changes I've made. I've spent a bunch of time making little tweaks and adjustments to lot's of parts. Still a lot on the to-do list though with no real end in sight right now. Oh and been doing lots of playing too! Installed Grid for the first time two days ago and I'm hooked on it. I suck at it right now but it doesn't take away from it being an awesome game (that works perfectly with my controls FFB and all).

brad808

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Went down tonight to play some Grid and got a little side tracked. Decided it was time to get that e-brake installed somehow so I could compete in the drift competitions. Pulled the seat off and the adjustment bracket that allows you to move forward and backwards with the seat and I got side tracked again....

It's been in my head since last week when I went to an arcade and was playing some new driving games that my cabinet is lacking in the bass area. After I left the arcade I went home and hooked up the subwoofer under the seat but it didn't have the feeling of power behind it. At the arcade I was rumbling and at my house It sounded like a crappy under powered subwoofer.

When I had my seats upside down this is what I discovered.

Emergency call seat:


Sega Rally? 2? seat:


Both beside each other


So as you can see my emergency call seat had a small subwoofer inside, while the sega rally? 2? seat had a bass shaker inside.
http://www.amazon.com/Aura-AST-2B-4-Pro-Bass-Shaker/dp/B0002ZPTBI

I couldn't direct swap the bass shaker into my seat mount because of how the shaker mounted vs the subwoofer. You can see how the bracket was much deeper to make room for the shaker to attach directly to the supporting braces that go up the back of the seat where the gold coloured bolts attach. I'm assuming this is to make sure the shaker will rattle the whole seat.


The subwoofer on the other hand didn't attach to anything it simply sat in a hole. It attached with four screws, two up top, two bellow but the screwed into the plastic and didn't attach to the support bars that go up the back of the seat. The whole seat is plastic and not suitable for mounting the shaker on.


I ended up mounting the shaker onto the top of the seat back/forth slider so that it would be bolted directly to the supporting braces up the back of the seat and still have a solid metal surface to vibrate on. The shaker then has the clearance from the old subwoofer hole to sit and not get in the way. The slider as shown here has to be flipped upside down to be bolted.



Technically the shaker is mounted 180 degreed so the way it was mounted before ie it sat flat side to the seat/ fin side to the ground, and now it sits flat side to the ground/ fin side facing towards the seat.

I would like to add an actual subwoofer back into the system at some point but I will probably mount one below the floor where I have my other components such as computer mounted. The shaker is more suited for under the seat where you can feel it vs the bass which can be heard from anywhere in the cabinet.

On an unrelated note I finally got around to installing a power button for my pc. Beats lifting up the seat and touching two loose wires together. It's the little red one in the middle.




So much for playing any games tonight! Still no e-brake!
« Last Edit: January 10, 2012, 08:15:52 pm by brad808 »

brad808

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OK so finally came up with a solution that I like for the e-brake. Basically it's an adapter that adds on to the seat where the holes for the seat mount already are. I chose to do it this way because it leaves the machine completely unaltered and I can simply unbolt it if I need to change it or for whatever reason am not happy with it/ don't want it. The only thing that was permanently altered was the bottom of the e-brake itself. I drilled 4 new holes in the bottom of it. I used 1/4" galvanized plate to make sure it was nice and strong and it's what was laying around. I was pulling on it pretty hard and it shows no sign of being weak. Basically if your playing harder then that on my machine then you shouldn't be playing kind of idea.

The only change I might make to it is use a flat black paint instead of gloss black. The flash from my camera really makes it stand out but in person you would have to be actually staring right at it looking for imperfections to notice any difference.

Here's the plate I cut out and drilled the holes in.


Used a countersink bit to make the bottom flush


The black piece is the bottom of the e-brake


All put together and installed










The flash really brings out the worst in my cabinet but in my dark lit basement it looks great  ;D

I don't have the wires hooked up yet (it's just a simple microswitch inside) because I haven't got around to taking off the dash yet. Hopefully that will be job for this weekend. I'm planning on wiring up the lights in my view panel and adding a new rubber stop to my steering assembly. Mine is rotten and you can hear the metal hitting metal if you pull it to full lock.

ScottoKong

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It's my experience that most things are better in the dark  >:D

Great work with the brake too.
I finally got GRID installed today - so I'm gonna have to get looking into software/frontends soon.

Peace-out
Scott

brad808

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Just shows how to wire a few switches on the logitech driving force.
« Last Edit: January 22, 2012, 11:15:03 am by brad808 »