My completely homemade arcade machine

[arximidis]

Hello!
This is my first post to the forum and I wanted to share with you, my homemade game machine

The reason I say completely homemade is because I didn't use a commercial game controller, unlike most people do. I even created my own frontEnd.
However, I did use an old TV set and a computer (modified to cover my needs).

A few months ago I started building a Game machine. I had one original cabinet in mind, which I liked when I was young. However, I couldn't find any plans over the internet. They only thing I did found, was some pictures. So, I created my own plans, based on those pictures. The result was a machine very close to the original one (In fact I did some changes on purpose).

Next thing was to create the game controller. This is a circuit controlling the whole machine. It's booting the computer, powering up the TV and the speakers by turning an ignition key.

It is also responsible for controlling the coin acceptor and of course... the buttons
I could use one of commercial controllers (like i-pac), but I wanted to go one step further and simultaneously keep the price low (it cost me all most nothing).
One of the capabilities is changing the keyboard layout on the fly, which is impossible to do with current controllers)
I can have differnet layouts for each game. (Some games allow only specific keyboard layouts)
The only thing you have to do, is write ini files with the button associations for each game, and they will be automatically loaded when you start the game.
The side effect was that I couldn't use any of the existing FrontEnds, because they are not supporting my controller (To be more exact the can work with my controller, but they can't send commands. This means that you can have only one keyboard combination, which is fine if your are not intersted for something more complicated. You can set your games having the same keyboard layout, if it is possible).
There are others things it can do too (like simulation tilt for pinball games. Instead of pressing a button, you shake the whole machine!)


My cabinet is almost ready (I have the paint job). I don't have a video showing the cabinet as it is right now, but I have some older videos



This is a test video for the FrontEnd (and the hardware)



This is a video showing my game controller




This is a test for the basic circuit of the game controller


A simple test for the coin acceptor




I have already started creating an article about how to build your own, but is not completed yet
Here is the link:
Game Machine

And in this link you can find the FrontEnd
GameFrontEnd
Even if you don't have the game controller, you can test the frontEnd and report bugs or your suggestions


Thank you


PS. Excuse me for my bad English

[StriderDSO]

Seems cool.. how much time did you put into everything? I'll be interested in reading your detailed plans & project steps when you finish the article on your site.

[arximidis]

Seems cool.. how much time did you put into everything? I'll be interested in reading your detailed plans & project steps when you finish the article on your site.

Hello, StriderDSO
Thank you for your nice words

Well, It took me a lot of time (about 2.5 months) mostly becasuse I didn't had any plans. In fact I had already built it, but I didn't liked the result (the dimentions were totally wrong). So I created new palns and rebuilt the whole thing
Now, if you have the plans for everything, it should not take a long time to build, but that depends on how much of your free time you will devote to it.

The cabinet has some details and at first it looked easier to built (but ok it's not so difficult, especially if you now how to work with wood)

[arximidis]

My next goal is creating a gun controller, in order to play games like VirtuaCup
So, you will be able to aim and shoot, just like when you use the mouse

I have already wrote the software and the only think I need to do is buy a toy gun and modify it
Inside the cabinet there will be a hacked webcam to see in infrared. See this link: WebCam to IR
The gun will have infrared LEDs and a LASER for aiming. Infrared will be also used for the wireless comunication between the cabinet and the gun

In this video I am testing the software with a normal camera. It is just following a white spot (insted of moving the light I am moving the camera, which is the same thing for the code)



P.S. It's very possible to make changes, as this project is not completed yet. That depends on what will work better

[abispac]

Im always interested in how peaople makes their own control interface instead of buying  some premade ones.How did you cameout with this one? and how much does it coast to make?

[arximidis]

Im always interested in how peaople makes their own control interface instead of buying  some premade ones.How did you cameout with this one? and how much does it coast to make?

Hello abispac
Well, I didn't want to buy a premade controller for three main reasons. Firstly, to save money... Secondly, the premade didn't actually do what I wanted to do... and thirdly just for fun (fun of creation).

You gave me the opportunity to say few words about the controller

The basic idea is quite simple. The game controller is based on a small and chip microcontroller. This is responible of handling the buttons, the coin acceptor and the start up procedure.
It scans the buttons (5x5 array -> total 25 buttons. The microcontroller is small and I didn't have any other I/O ports left. By repalcing the microcontroller with another one, you will be able to controll more buttons. For me 25 buttons are more than enough) and communicates with the computer.

When a button is pressed the microcontroller notifies the computer which button was that. The Keyboard Mapper (this is another propgram that runs on the background) interpretes this event with a keyboard stroke. The actual keyboard key code will be send, depends on the association you made in the ini file of the selected game.
For example lets assume in the ini file you wrote something like this: Button1=LEFT
This means that when you press button 1 the Keyboard mapper will send the LEFT arrow code etc
When you release a button the keyboard mapper send the release code.


In few words the Keyboard Mapper acts like a virtual keyboard
The communication between keyboard Mapper and the game controler is via serial or USB port (for usb you need a usb to serial converter. Any converter will do)

The only thing you must take care is if your computer is able to boot without a real keyboard present. If not (and if there is no setting in BIOS) then you can easilly bypass problem by using a dummy one (You can also unscrew the keyboard and connect only the actual controller into PS/2 port to save space. In a keyboard the pcb of the controler is very small. Most space is taken by the keys)



PS. I have released the beta 3 of GameFrontEnd. In this version I fixed some bugs and added same cool stuff (e.g. DirectX window draw -> this is usefull especially if you are using a TV set for display)

[mathew_123456]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you could remap keyboard encoders on the fly, and most Front Ends will handle this? But, on the other hand, I can understand the satisfaction in building components/ software yourself..

[arximidis]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you could remap keyboard encoders on the fly, and most Front Ends will handle this? But, on the other hand, I can understand the satisfaction in building components/ software yourself..

Hello, mathew_123456
To tell you the truth, I don't now exactly what most Fornt Ends can do.  I didn't searched in detail. (In fact it was difficult to set them up. Only the comercial ones are very good and easy to setup, but they are expensive)


Suppose the following senario. I have installed two different games (not just emulated games. They could be windows games, like pro evolution soccer, or something else).
Both games are not letting you change the keyboard layout. The fire botton (the red one in my panel) is Left Control for the first game and Left shift for the second.
In the ForntEnd the fire button (again the red one) is the button with which you start the games from the menu. This is enter


I load the first game. Until now red is enter. When the game loads, automatically the red button must change to Left control. When I close the game, automatically the same red button, must be enter again (Because I am in the FrontEnd now). I select the second game. Same procedure. The red button must change to Left shift, and back to enter when I close the game.
And all this,  just with one button...
Perhaps, you can do that with other frontends (I really don't now), but with my game controller is very easy to do... at least for me

There are also some other things you can do, but still uncompleted (that is why I haven't mentioned them)


PS. My English are very... very bad

[arximidis]

There are a lot of electronic pinball games (simulators).
In a real (mechanical) pinball, you could shake the machine to move the ball, just a little bit. All electronic pinball games, are simulating this event with a keyboard stroke (tilt)
What I am going to do, is simulating this tilt by actually shaking the whole machine, just like you would normally do with a real pinball

[arximidis]

And another thing (this is almost completed)

Can I handle the mouse using only the joystick, with the forntends you know? (I am actually asking because I don't know)
And I mean, with the joystic, NOT with a trackball or a touchpad (saving a lot of money, especially because trackballs are not so cheap. Except if you can hack a mouse)

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Several of the commercial keyboard encoders out there will allow you to dynamically remap the encoder, and some of the analog joysticks (such as the U360) will let you remap the direction matrix as well. Several of the front-ends (such as the free Hyperspin and the free Mala) will run the re-map the encoder and the joystick specific to each game when you launch it.

For the Ultimarc line of encoders/joysticks, the utilities for remapping are available here:
 http://www.ultimarc.com/download.html

For moving the mouse with just a joystick there are programs such as Joy2Mouse:
http://atzitznet.dyndns.org/Joy2Mouse3/help.html

If paired with an analog joystick like the U360, you would be able to move the mouse at different speeds using that software as well.

Most front-ends (again such as Hyperspin or Mala) are designed to work with a joystick + buttons by themselves, but they can also be configured to use a mouse if you wanted to.


A few of the "visual pinball" builds on this forum have incorporated "tilt-bob" mechanisms to handle the detection of tilting the machine. Some have used single key-press encoding by using mercury switches, others have had a more robust input by using the actual tilt-bob mechanism from a pinball machine. Another commercial options is the uHid G:
http://www.u-hid.com/home/uhidg.php

This is a 3-Axis accelerometer which will send keypresses for movement in XYZ. Thus a single board and USB cable would encode all nudge movement.

Good luck on your self-built encoder. Perhaps some of these other products will give you ideas.

[mgb]

I like the cabinet design. very nice. I'd love to see some more pics

[arximidis]

Thanks for your reply cotmm68030, your info and your links. I am always interested in new ideas

First, I want to set things clear... I am not saying that you (or anybody else) implying this... so please don't misunderstand me!

Never said that I am building something revolutionary and that no one has thought before. After all I have found a lot of implementations over the internet. Building arcade machines is not so difficult (especially if you can handle wood).
I am selling nothing... The controller I am building is there, in order to build it by your own (if you like it). The firmware will be open source...
The frontend is totally free. No registration needed, no nothing! (Maybe in the future I will open the code too)

And of course, it's about one more and different implementation, among all other

My goal from the start was, Can I make a game machine with the minimal cost (That means buying no extra hardware or software).

Several of the commercial keyboard encoders out there will allow you to dynamically remap the encoder, and some of the analog joysticks (such as the U360) will let you remap the direction matrix as well. Several of the front-ends (such as the free Hyperspin and the free Mala) will run the re-map the encoder and the joystick specific to each game when you launch it.

For the Ultimarc line of encoders/joysticks, the utilities for remapping are available here:
 http://www.ultimarc.com/download.html

For moving the mouse with just a joystick there are programs such as Joy2Mouse:
http://atzitznet.dyndns.org/Joy2Mouse3/help.html

If paired with an analog joystick like the U360, you would be able to move the mouse at different speeds using that software as well.

Most front-ends (again such as Hyperspin or Mala) are designed to work with a joystick + buttons by themselves, but they can also be configured to use a mouse if you wanted to.

......

To tell you the truth, first I tested Mala. I didn't like it 
Then I tryed Hyperspin. Before even try it, I read that is not so easy to set up... and indeed it is complecated.
But the thing that really bothers me with hyperspin, is that they force you to register in order to download. Generally I dislike such a policy. Is your software free or not?
Some of you will say: So big deal... But for me, it is!

The commercial frontEnds are very very nice and impressive. Maximus arcade looks good, but I liked GameEX a lot
Unfortunatelly, You must buy them and my intial intention was to cut the budget out and not increase it

Thanks for the joy2mouse link, cotmm68030. I really didn't know about it.
However correct me if I am wrong.
This software uses a real joystick, to control the mouse or the keyboard.
Well, I don't have a real joystick. I have a button based arcade HAPP joystick, which is connected as a keyboard. So, I want to control the mouse with the keyboard (e.g. with the arrow keys). This is what my software does.
Also I can control the mouse with a web camera (for the homemade gun, I was talking about). And all, in one software!

.....
A few of the "visual pinball" builds on this forum have incorporated "tilt-bob" mechanisms to handle the detection of tilting the machine. Some have used single key-press encoding by using mercury switches, others have had a more robust input by using the actual tilt-bob mechanism from a pinball machine. Another commercial options is the uHid G:
http://www.u-hid.com/home/uhidg.php

This is a 3-Axis accelerometer which will send keypresses for movement in XYZ. Thus a single board and USB cable would encode all nudge movement.

Good luck on your self-built encoder. Perhaps some of these other products will give you ideas.

Even if I have an accelerometer I will not use it. I think it will be a waste (better use it in another project). I will stay with the mercury switches, as my initial thought was.

I like the cabinet design. very nice. I'd love to see some more pics

Thank you mgb!!!
And I did see your cab and it looks fantastic. It's enormous but very good

The design is based on a Greek original cabinet, but unfortunatelly I couldn't find any plans for it. So I created my own based on some pictures. There are not exactly the same, but pretty close!
I do have a lot of pictures from the begining of creation. I have upload them here and there. I will upload some pictures here too...

Here are some pictures of the original cabinet, I am talking about (I spent a lot of hours on a such machine, when I was young )

[codefenix]

But the thing that really bothers me with hyperspin, is that they force you to register in order to download. Generally I dislike such a policy. Is your software free or not?

Agreed.  Nice cabinet, by the way!

[Justin Z]

And another thing (this is almost completed)

Can I handle the mouse using only the joystick, with the forntends you know? (I am actually asking because I don't know)
And I mean, with the joystic, NOT with a trackball or a touchpad (saving a lot of money, especially because trackballs are not so cheap. Except if you can hack a mouse)

Joy2Mouse is good, but I prefer Phatsoft Joymouse--it is small and completely invisible upon startup.  You can also set a button to enable/disable the mouse:

http://download.cnet.com/Phatsoft-JoyMouse/3000-2072_4-10065027.html

[bkenobi]

While I completely understand your position on FE software, I would like to point out that you can use GameEx for FREE without ever paying a dime.  There is a nag screen that pops up for ~5 seconds when you turn the machine on and some of the advanced features are not available in the free version (basically the ones that the author had to pay others to implement).  However, the free version is still very usable.

If you are happy with writing your own FE, more power to you...that's awesome!  I don't have the background or time to invest to build my own that suits my needs as I see them.

[arximidis]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

You are "forcing" me to write more details...  but that is good!

OK, this is not a project, I started in previous week. Actually, I started about 3 months ago!!! (or even more. I can't remember)

At first, I was using premade software. I didn't even think of creating my own controller and software.
I did a little search and I ended up using GameEX. It was fantastic.
For controller, I was thinking to hack a usb keyboard (I even found some videos on youtube). I never thought of buying a controller like i-pac. It was expensive and I had already some usb keyboards lying around.
I was setting up gameEx and I made one change at a time (after all, I was just learning it). With each change, I had to wait the nag screen to disappear. If you complete the settings, its not a big deal... but that was exactly the time I started thinking... do I really want this nag screen to appear?
I started looking for alternatives (freeware). I didn't like MaLa, so I found out about Hyperspin. The first problem was the registration... That was annoying... but I did register just to try it out (Ok, I will be "bombarded" with spam again, I thought)
The second problem I encountered was the complexity... GameEX was pretty straightforward (at least for me)

This was the time I thought of creating my own frontEnd. After all, what is a frontend? A program that executes other programs, like the explorer (ok, it's not just like that. It has graphics and a lot more, but I was thinking to use pictures and videos instead of graphics). With that thought, I started writting it.
While I was writting it, I encounter other problems. I didn't want to use the machine just for MAME. I had a powerfull (for free) machine and it would be a waste.
Moreover, if I used a hacked USB keyboard, how on earth I would be able to remap the keys with my software
I had two options. Go back and throw away all my work (frontend was almost completed... at least at the point I wanted), or move forward.
I select the second option and came out with my own controller (which totally cost me... nothing)

And now, here I am...

PS. I have some screws and the paint job, and the machine will be completed!
And then the hard part (cross fingers). The tests... 

PS2 @Justin Z I couldn't find the homepage of Joymouse. Is there any?

[bkenobi]

I was setting up gameEx and I made one change at a time (after all, I was just learning it). With each change, I had to wait the nag screen to disappear. If you complete the settings, its not a big deal... but that was exactly the time I started thinking... do I really want this nag screen to appear?

Yup, that's the main time that the nag screen is annoying and, unfortunately, the same time people typically evaluate the software.  As a result, it takes a long time to see if it's what you want and can be a turn-off (I speak from experience as I left that FE a few times initially for that very reason).

Either way, glad you got something that works for you!

[arximidis]

Yup, that's the main time that the nag screen is annoying and, unfortunately, the same time people typically evaluate the software.  As a result, it takes a long time to see if it's what you want and can be a turn-off (I speak from experience as I left that FE a few times initially for that very reason).

Either way, glad you got something that works for you!

If I hadn't written the code, I would probably use GameEX as FrontEnd

[arximidis]

I have upload a small turorial on how setting the FrontEnd to load MAME Roms
I also tested it with the latest version of MAME. It works!
Here is the link http://users.ntua.gr/dpiperid/MyWebPage/Catalog/games/FE_tutor/mamefrontendEN.htm

If you want to test it yourselves, download the latest beta version of GameFrontEnd.
Link: http://users.ntua.gr/dpiperid/MyWebPage/Catalog/games/ArcadeEN.htm

[arximidis]

I have "officially" started the filling and the paint job
I am finally one step before the end...

[dextercf]

nice one!

[arximidis]

nice one!

Thanks ! 

[arximidis]

Hello again

Today I started the paint job. I finished the first hand!

[Turnarcades]

OK, well done and all that stuff everyone else has said about having a go at doing things yourself you could easily have bought yourself. The cabinet's not a design I would have gone with but it seems you did your research for the most part and wanted a familiar design you remember. However there's one thing no-one else has mentioned here I really have to:

Why are the joysticks and buttons the wrong way round?

[EightBySix]

There is something I've been thinking about regarding low level approaches to encoders like this, (and the one I want to make) Why bother encoding a keyboard at all? Keyboards are interfaces with people, they seem like an unnecesary step if the system is to be locked away in a cab. why not compile a tweaked version of mame that communicates with the host pc via, say, the com port instead of the extra step to simulate key presses.

[arximidis]

Hello, Turnarcades
I think you already answered your question

.....wanted a familiar design you remember...

Now, if you are asking why the original cabinet has the joysticks and buttons with the "wrong" orientation, I really don't know. The only think I know, is that the cabin you see in the pictures, was originally made in my country. I remember a lot of machines like that. For example look at this cabinet


The point is that I am used to play games with the joystick at the right, even if I am right handed

There is something I've been thinking about regarding low level approaches to encoders like this, (and the one I want to make) Why bother encoding a keyboard at all? Keyboards are interfaces with people, they seem like an unnecesary step if the system is to be locked away in a cab. why not compile a tweaked version of mame that communicates with the host pc via, say, the com port instead of the extra step to simulate key presses.

That's a very good idea indeed. I could have studied the code of MAME an recompile it. However, I didn't do it because I wanted to run other emulators too (and not just MAME)

[lodoss118]

how is that gun sensor going, would be cool to see if this could be an alternative to the current solutions from aimtrak and ems?

[Turnarcades]

I do remember seeing backwards controls in foreign arcades on holiday back in the day, but it just seems so strange. That said, in the UK we saw many random button layouts in machines that had been badly converted JAMMA shells and got used to it (the vertical '3x2' 6 button layout on some of our smaller Bar-Tops reflect this kind of variation) but at least that's just a spacial thing. I always believed that arcade layouts, joypads and everything that evolved since the early days had the right hand doing the button job, as the majority (right-handers) will have a quicker response time for rapid fire with their right hand?

Well, to each their own. Good job still.

[arximidis]

how is that gun sensor going, would be cool to see if this could be an alternative to the current solutions from aimtrak and ems?

I have (almost) completed the code but I haven't tested yet. I need to buy a toy gun and... hack it. Until now, I am not quite sure what will work better... the laser or the infrared LED's. Probably I will test with the laser first, because if I hack the camera (to see in infrared) there is a slight chance to break the filter (like I did the last time). If you break this filter, then you can not turn the camera back to normal
I already have a hacked camera (infrared), but I am using it for my homemade security system. It requires a lot of effort to remove it, just to use it for testing purposes
For now I want to complete the wiring of the controls and test the software (FrontEnd and Keyboard mapper). When I finish the testing, I will complete the gun sensor
I have it to my schedule with high priority, because I love games like Virtua Cop and I have never played them with such a controller

I do remember seeing backwards controls in foreign arcades on holiday back in the day, but it just seems so strange. That said, in the UK we saw many random button layouts in machines that had been badly converted JAMMA shells and got used to it (the vertical '3x2' 6 button layout on some of our smaller Bar-Tops reflect this kind of variation) but at least that's just a spacial thing. I always believed that arcade layouts, joypads and everything that evolved since the early days had the right hand doing the button job, as the majority (right-handers) will have a quicker response time for rapid fire with their right hand?

Well, to each their own. Good job still.

I also remember that for some games I was crossing my hands, but I forgotten why... to get the joystick to my right, or left hand? I am not quite sure... (probably to my right)
A lot of years have past since I played with such a machine (in my country all the arcade game machines are forbbitten. I can tell you the reason if you interested).

Where did tekan world cup cabinet had the joystick? The horizontal one...

Edit: Although I can play with the joystic to my left hand, I have a difficulty moving the player correctly. For example in double dragon... I can kick fast with my right hand, but in most cases I kick the air, because I am "missing" the opponent

[Turnarcades]

I also remember that for some games I was crossing my hands, but I forgotten why... to get the joystick to my right, or left hand? I am not quite sure... (probably to my right)
A lot of years have past since I played with such a machine (in my country all the arcade game machines are forbbitten. I can tell you the reason if you interested).

Where did tekan world cup cabinet had the joystick? The horizontal one...

Edit: Although I can play with the joystic to my left hand, I have a difficulty moving the player correctly. For example in double dragon... I can kick fast with my right hand, but in most cases I kick the air, because I am "missing" the opponent

Interesting, why are arcade cabinets banned in Greece? I remember playing on a couple back in 1993 at least. Something to do with gambling laws or is it more political?

With regards to not adapting to movement with your left hand, the problem you'll likely have is that you'll not have developed the 'arcade grip' most of us developed from playing games that almost invariably scrolled from left to right; on the correct orientation (stick in left hand) you evelop a 2 or 3 finger grip on the top with your other fingers below curled underneath the top in front of it, giving plenty of leverage for right-moving motion, but a bit extra when moving left and up too. Playing with a joystick in your right hand feels more normal on flight stick games or games that only use the joystick (PacMan etc.) as well as computer joysticks with top-mount or trigger buttons (like those on old Commodores and Spectrums) but although it seems counter-intuitive at first, after you play most other games for a long time the 'correct' way round you'll see that the stick in left hand starts to make more sense. Shmups come to mind, as your let hand would get tired very quickly firing with fingers on your left hand.

[dextercf]

I do remember seeing backwards controls in foreign arcades on holiday back in the day, but it just seems so strange. That said, in the UK we saw many random button layouts in machines that had been badly converted JAMMA shells and got used to it (the vertical '3x2' 6 button layout on some of our smaller Bar-Tops reflect this kind of variation) but at least that's just a spacial thing. I always believed that arcade layouts, joypads and everything that evolved since the early days had the right hand doing the button job, as the majority (right-handers) will have a quicker response time for rapid fire with their right hand?

Well, to each their own. Good job still.

you also drive on the wrong side of the road, am i right?

[Turnarcades]

I do remember seeing backwards controls in foreign arcades on holiday back in the day, but it just seems so strange. That said, in the UK we saw many random button layouts in machines that had been badly converted JAMMA shells and got used to it (the vertical '3x2' 6 button layout on some of our smaller Bar-Tops reflect this kind of variation) but at least that's just a spacial thing. I always believed that arcade layouts, joypads and everything that evolved since the early days had the right hand doing the button job, as the majority (right-handers) will have a quicker response time for rapid fire with their right hand?

Well, to each their own. Good job still.

you also drive on the wrong side of the road, am i right?

No, the rest of Europe and yanks do lol. Actually thought about this one too recently; in theory our way is better, as the important job of steering is always done with the right hand (which most people are), so when you do occasionally take a hand off to change gear it's with your left hand, leaving your stronger right in control. America has a higher percentage of automatics so this probably don't matter much, as they all drive with their left hand hanging out the window anyway and don't need to change gear with their right (curse your good weather!) The most powerful road cars come from Japan too, and they also drive on the left side of the road. Lucky us when it comes to importing Skylines, Imprezas and Evos! Then of course we got the best car show in the world (Top Gear), and as we all know Clarkson's opinion is the only one that matters and he should be ruler of the entire world.

(P.S. I'm taking the piss of course! )

[dextercf]

Then of course we got the best car show in the world (Top Gear), and as we all know Clarkson's opinion is the only one that matters and he should be ruler of the entire world.

(P.S. I'm taking the piss of course! )

I'm Norwegian. So tell me something about rally, please!
I would love to discuss why you in fact are wrong and your still are driving on the wrong side of the road (yes, you are). But let's not kidnap this guys thread.

Back on topic; I don't think I have tried playing with a mirrored setup like this. My mind tells me it might be impossible, if not able to cross my hands like said earlier. Still, it's all down to what your used too I guess.

Cool cabinett btw, makes me wanna reconsider my designs for a upcomming build.

[arximidis]

Interesting, why are arcade cabinets banned in Greece? I remember playing on a couple back in 1993 at least. Something to do with gambling laws or is it more political? ....

Yes... The reason was because they had found ways (and some times very extreme ones) to convert the arcade machines to gambling machines. It was so well designed that it was almost impossible to discover. So the goverment (after the pressure of economically destroyed people and families) forbade all the machines...

...
Back on topic; I don't think I have tried playing with a mirrored setup like this. My mind tells me it might be impossible, if not able to cross my hands like said earlier. Still, it's all down to what your used too I guess.

Cool cabinett btw, makes me wanna reconsider my designs for a upcomming build.

If you are playing alone you can use the left joystick (as you look the machine) with the buttons at the right.
This can easilly be done with my frontend - controller, with no extra hardware and software needed.
(I will demonstrate it in a video, when I finish the wiring and the component placement


As for who is driving in the wrong way... My opinion is we both drive the right way, if the position of the steering wheel is correct. If it is at the right then you must drive like in UK. If it is at the left, then than the rest of the world
One day, I watched a documentary that was trying to explain, why in some countries the drive to the other side of the road. And it goes way back... to the time before cars were even invented!

P.S. Thanks for the nice words

[dextercf]

As for who is driving in the wrong way... My opinion is we both drive the right way, if the position of the steering wheel is correct. If it is at the right then you must drive like in UK. If it is at the left, then than the rest of the world
One day, I watched a documentary that was trying to explain, why in some countries the drive to the other side of the road. And it goes way back... to the time before cars were even invented!

They used to drive on the left side in Sweden, but they bumped their intelligence somewhere along the timeline and have converted.

Also, in Hong Kong they drive on the left side but rest of China is driving on the right side;

Kinda strange transfer between, huh?

Back onto topic;
Are there schematics for this cab? I'm pretty sure this one could go past my girlfriends censorship to be placed inside our house (not in the garage with all my other machines)..

[arximidis]

...
Back onto topic;
Are there schematics for this cab? I'm pretty sure this one could go past my girlfriends censorship to be placed inside our house (not in the garage with all my other machines)..

I will upload them when I finish it. As you can see I am missing the back door and the little door in front of the coin backet. Also I don't have the front glass

However, If you want, I can tell you some dimentions. As far as I can tell, it will be easy for you to build or even improve it


PS. LOL... fantastic bridge !!!

[arximidis]

Today I completed the most connections and I was ready for the first "test drive"
I was afraid that I will encounter problems with the television, because the pcb had fallen down and broke. I glue it back together and fixed the broken connections

However, everything worked great. The tv started simultaneously when the computer started... the computer booted and then... it hanged...
Problem with the hard drive. I replaced it with a smaller one and everything went OK.

Originally, I was able to boot from the hard drive. I even installed the system... All the tests you see in the videos above, are made with that hard drive. I don't know what happend and now is not working...
The thing is that I don't have another one to replace it... This is a step backwards...

[arximidis]

[arximidis]

First was the hard drive and now the tv set
I am very unlucky 

It was working fine until now

[hypernova]

Looking good.

One suggestion.  Stick with one or two colors (one for each player) for your buttons.  The rainbow effect always ends up looking gaudy.

First was the hard drive and now the tv set
I am very unlucky 

It was working fine until now

Better get used to it!  My arcade's been down for over a year, because I'm too cheap to diagnose the offending part.  (HDD or Mobo)

[arximidis]

Looking good.

One suggestion.  Stick with one or two colors (one for each player) for your buttons.  The rainbow effect always ends up looking gaudy.

First was the hard drive and now the tv set
I am very unlucky 

It was working fine until now

Better get used to it!  My arcade's been down for over a year, because I'm too cheap to diagnose the offending part.  (HDD or Mobo)

I agree. I don't like it either. But I already bought the buttons

I don't mind if something electronic fails. I can fix it. After all the television was problematic from the beggining (that's why I got it for free)
The problem is that the ferrite of the transformer is broken (I don't know how. The pcb was well placed and it was working). I glue it back together, but it doesn't work (probably the magnetic field is not circulating correctly)

[Unstupid]

I agree. I don't like it either. But I already bought the buttons

Just call it a Neo Geo inspired button configuration!   

[arximidis]

I have some good and some bad news

The bad news is that I did fix the television but I broke it again


The good new is that I got for free a new television (SONY) that it was broken, but I fixed it

Now, the only problem is that the monitor is Trinitron and I must change the frame a lititle bit (and it's position). So what I have to do is unscrew the frame and place it to the new position

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

does it have those annoying lines where the shadowmask is held in place with wires in the middle of the picture?
i had a trinitron crt in a cab at one time and it was rather distracting.

[arximidis]

does it have those annoying lines where the shadowmask is held in place with wires in the middle of the picture?
i had a trinitron crt in a cab at one time and it was rather distracting.

I know that all SONY trinitron monitors do have these lines (I have some in my lab, and I have already seen these lines)

However, this is a television CRT tube. I don't know if they are exactly the same technology
I tested it with the tuner and I didn't notice any lines.
Maybe they are there... but unnoticable.

I haven't tested the monitor with the computer connected to the s-video input.
When I do, I will look closer...

[arximidis]

And this is the result after the modification
(ok I need to re-paint it)

[arximidis]

[dextercf]

use a roller dude!

[arximidis]

use a roller dude!

This is not paint!

I did use a roller for the painting

[Unstupid]

Would probably be easier if you paint before you install your buttons, joysticks and speakers.   Are your pictures coming out mirrored or are your buttons on the left side of the joysticks?

[arximidis]

Would probably be easier if you paint before you install your buttons, joysticks and speakers.   Are your pictures coming out mirrored or are your buttons on the left side of the joysticks?

Yes, I did remove the buttons for the paint job (This is not paint what you see in the picture)


If you are playing alone, you can change the "buttons - joystick" orientation on the fly (and by that, I mean without terminating the game).
Pause the game, select the new orientation, unpause and play

The only reason that the buttons are on the left side is because that was exactly the "orientation" on the original cab

[dextercf]

Ah, so it's a primer of some sort?

[arximidis]

Ah, so it's a primer of some sort?

It is Alkyd-based undercoat to be more exact
It's for wooden surfaces and walls


Now, I am doing my tests... Of course the game controller didn't work at first (after all, I hadn't tested in "full scale")
After some bug fixes, I managed to make it work with the frontend and nestopia
It's not working with mame yet (there are still some bugs left)
I know what is wrong, but I can't understand why it is not working. I thought I had fixed it. However, I did a lot of changes to the code, from the time of the first succesfull test with mame (you can see the succesfull test with mame in one of the videos in the first post of this thread)


In the picture you see the installation of the operating system

[SammyWI]

how is that gun sensor going, would be cool to see if this could be an alternative to the current solutions from aimtrak and ems?

Very interested in this myself.  I have an Aimtrak setup that I like, but it has it's limitations.  The requirement to calibrate for each shooter and inaccuracy if the shooter moves drives me kinda nuts  Especially since one of my other hobbies is shooting. 

I'm thinking about going to a laser + webcam tracking system for a front projection shooting setup.  From what I can find, commercial video training systems for the military and LEOs use this approach.  Seems like people have used this for basic mouse tracking in DIY setups like this:

http://channel9.msdn.com/coding4fun/articles/Webcam-Based-Laser-Tracking-for-Human-Computer-Interaction

or using software like this:

http://www.roborealm.com/

I'd love to see what you come up with.  Will you be making your tracking software available under GPL, etc?

[arximidis]

how is that gun sensor going, would be cool to see if this could be an alternative to the current solutions from aimtrak and ems?

Very interested in this myself.  I have an Aimtrak setup that I like, but it has it's limitations.  The requirement to calibrate for each shooter and inaccuracy if the shooter moves drives me kinda nuts  Especially since one of my other hobbies is shooting. 

I'm thinking about going to a laser + webcam tracking system for a front projection shooting setup.  From what I can find, commercial video training systems for the military and LEOs use this approach.  Seems like people have used this for basic mouse tracking in DIY setups like this:

http://channel9.msdn.com/coding4fun/articles/Webcam-Based-Laser-Tracking-for-Human-Computer-Interaction

or using software like this:

http://www.roborealm.com/

I'd love to see what you come up with.  Will you be making your tracking software available under GPL, etc?

Well my first thought was a Laser + webcam system (I already wrote the code. The fellow of the first link had the same idea with me ).
But after a better thinking and some first results from simple tests, I don't think that it will work (at least not quite well).
If you carefully see the fellow's videos, you will notice that he is not aiming directly on the screen, but on a white surface. This way it's very easy to track the laser with a webcam. If you try to aim on the monitor, then it's a whole another thing. It will be very difficult to track the laser, due to all the collors of the screen (and don't forget that the colors change in a video game. Some colors will be close with the color of the laser, unless you have a very powerfull laser.
Also in order to focus the camera to view the whole monitor, you will be forced to place it far enough from the screen (even if you put it in an angle), meaning outside from the cab (if your cab is like mine). Otherwise on top, but that depends on your cab's design

Another thing is light. All this stuff (even the Aimtrak setup system) work quit well only in a dim enviroment. My cabinet is not in a closed room and the light from the sun is interfering. Reflections is another problem too. Even a system like Johnny Lee's will not work well enough (nottice the "darkness" in his videos) http://johnnylee.net/projects/wii/

Thinking all that, I am trying a whole different approach. I don't have results yet, because I haven't build the electronics yet (however, I already have the nessesary components in my lab)

[SammyWI]

I totally agree that the laser + webcam is unlikely to work with a monitor + cab.  I'm looking at a front projection setup for this approach.  I'm just at the researching point for now, but if the commercial systems work like this, there has to be a way.

Looking forward to see what you are coming up with.

[arximidis]

I remember such a system when I was in the army. We were firing with it. They had connected G3A3 machine guns and it was extremely accurate. I don't know how it was working (probably with lasers), but again I remember a dim environment...
The image was projected on the front wall... with the combination of a dark environment it's not so hard to track a laser beam accurately

[Jammin0]

what about IR lasers?  shouldn't be anything coming out the screen that is nearly as bright as a dot from an IR laser.  Just a thought.  I use the wiimote whiteboard setup all the time and have no problems with line of sight tracking.

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

what about IR lasers?  shouldn't be anything coming out the screen that is nearly as bright as a dot from an IR laser.  Just a thought.  I use the wiimote whiteboard setup all the time and have no problems with line of sight tracking.

hell no he doesn't want to use an IR laser! What the hell are you thinking?

[SammyWI]

what about IR lasers?  shouldn't be anything coming out the screen that is nearly as bright as a dot from an IR laser.  Just a thought.  I use the wiimote whiteboard setup all the time and have no problems with line of sight tracking.

hell no he doesn't want to use an IR laser! What the hell are you thinking?

Hmmmm.  No smiley face.  Not sure if serious.  

In case you are serious, an IR laser may be just the thing.  I believe commercial setups often use them and a web cam will often see IR just fine or can be modified to.  Wouldn't want to leave kids unsupervised with an IR laser system (too easy to burn retinas).  But then, that could happen even with visible lasers.  

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

IR lasers are bad news. Not to mention you'd be shining them onto a glass surface, where reflections, that you can't see, are going to be playing all over the room.

You can get Class I IR Lasers (called "eye safe") for things like night-vision gun-sights, but they are expensive, upwards of $900-1200USD. I'm sure you can source the modules themselves for cheaper, but I've never looked.

Don't look at IR lasers with your remaining eye.

[arximidis]

If you watch the video I have uploaded (showing the software)... somewhere I write that probably I will use infrared light and an ir webcam (meaning a normal webcam hacked to see in infrared http://users.ntua.gr/dpiperid/MyWebPage/Contructions/TVSignal/irwebcamEN.htm)
However, I never thought using an IR laser (I don't have one, and I don't think that the lasers extracted from cd burners or normal cd roms would work)
My thought was in IR LEDs (excactly like the aimtrak system)

To tell you the truth, I didn't tried it yet (I have only tried the laser setup. I did some tests with it and it didn't work as I would liked to)
Probably I will test the infrared set up, but first I need to extract my homemade ir webcam, from my homemade security system (after all is a low budjet webcam and I want to replace it with a better one). I don't want to hack my second webcam...

As I said before, I already thought of another system. I did a first test and things are looking great so far... (at least for the signal transmision part). The only test I have, is if I can succesfully track the direction of the signal and with what accurancy (In fact it's possible to track signal's direction, but I don't no the accurancy yet)

[SammyWI]

cotmm68030 - We will have to agree to disagree for now.  arximidis is not using an IR laser, so I will not drag his thread off topic further.  Another thread and time.

arximidis - Pretty cool that you are making as many parts as you can yourself on this build.  Please keep us updated!

[arximidis]

Still, I am not saying it's a bad idea. The lasers from cd roms etc I think it's a bad idea. If you already have an IR laser, maybe it's worth the try

It is possible for me to end up with a combination system, meaning a system that combines both IR light and sound.
But first I want to try the sound system I am working on... The good thing is that you can measure the distance of the gun from the monitor (which is an importand information). This info may save you from recalibrating


Ah, I forgot to tell you that I am planning to make the gun wireless!

[arximidis]

Update

Well, here what is going on...

I am having a problem with some games (like newer versions of MAME) not accepting virtual keystrokes. Fisrt I thought it was a problem with directX input. But it's not completely true. You can send a keystroke (with a special API function of windows, called SendInput -> This is the function I am using) only to the foreground process.
I am guessing some games handle direct input, with a different background process and that way the game seems not accepting the strokes.
Now, I can think three ways bypassing this unexpected problem

a) Use an older version of MAME (like mame0117). Everything is working as it is.
b) Leave the hardware of the game controller as it is... and write a special driver (a fake keyboard driver). Well this is not easy... unless you can find such a driver for free (I searched with no luck)
c) Change everything... meaning change the hardware and the necessary software... It's a lot of work... but I think it's easier than option b).

Well, I selected option c) and I wrote the NEW basic code and it works. What I am doing is creating a hardware that makes the PC "think" it has an AT keyboard connected (exactly like ipac or other controllers do)...
Of course it's not a simple keyboard. It has the ability changing the keystrokes combination by the frontend.

The only problem is that all the code I wrote for the mapper... it's useless now

[drventure]

I believe there's an API function to retrieve the "foreground" window, whatever process it belongs to, so that you can always be sending keys to the right place.

Regardless, sounds like you got something working.

Just curious, though. Mame already had pretty good keyboard remapping capabilities. Was there a specific reason for not using that? or maybe you were looking for something more generic to work across a bunch of emulators?

[arximidis]

I believe there's an API function to retrieve the "foreground" window, whatever process it belongs to, so that you can always be sending keys to the right place.

Regardless, sounds like you got something working.

Just curious, though. Mame already had pretty good keyboard remapping capabilities. Was there a specific reason for not using that? or maybe you were looking for something more generic to work across a bunch of emulators?

Yes, I already use this function in the code... Still, it doesn't work.
But it does work with other programs - games (e.g. nestopia). With Pro evolution soccer...no. Same thing with most modern games. It doesn't work with MAME too (it works only with version up to 0117).

I can explain it only like this:
You can send keystrokes only to the foreground window... Ok, this is what SendInput does (you may need to bring the application to foreground, if it's not).
SendInput works with virtual keycodes (e.g VK_RIGHT, which is the right arrow key and so on). Direct Input works in low level. So SendInput. Why it's not working then?
I wrote a small program, that used direct input, and then I tried to send keystrokes with SendInput, from another application. It did work!!!
However it's not working with games. It doesn't work even when you change the VK_ constants, with direct input DIK constants!
I am guessing, because direct input works at low level, it can scan for keystrokes from a different (and background) process (like windows hooks can do). Because that background proccess has no window handle, it's impossible to bring it at foreground (foreground has no meaning). SendInput is sending the keystrokes to the foreground window (in our case the game you are playing) successfully... but there is no code there!!!

I know that mame has remapping capabilities. I am trying to create a more generic controller (like you said) and I don't want to use commercial controllers nor thirdparty remappers (freeware or shareware) and frontends. It's all about the "completely homemade" title of the thread

PS: I found out what to do with the old code... I will publish it for free (I mean, open it). After all, it's a working piece of code (with some limitations regarding the games only)

[bkenobi]

This is in no way intended to cut your project down, but I don't understand where you are drawing the line on "completely homemade".  You are certainly making the controller interface and interface software essentially from components, but you are using commercial joysticks, buttons, monitor, coin slot, etc.  I think what you are doing is awesome, but if you use MAME and Windows, then why is using a function that someone else bad?  Perhaps it just comes down to "I did everything I am capable of doing myself"?

Anyway, it's coming along really nice.  Good job!

[arximidis]

This is in no way intended to cut your project down, but I don't understand where you are drawing the line on "completely homemade".  You are certainly making the controller interface and interface software essentially from components, but you are using commercial joysticks, buttons, monitor, coin slot, etc.  I think what you are doing is awesome, but if you use MAME and Windows, then why is using a function that someone else bad?  Perhaps it just comes down to "I did everything I am capable of doing myself"?

Anyway, it's coming along really nice.  Good job!

Hello, bkenobi and thank you for your nice words

I think you misunderstood the title of the thread and it's not your fault. I have a difficulty on expressing and writting my thoughts in English and I apologise for that

Every homemade machine I have seen here or over the internet, are completely homemade too. I have seen implementations that are simply fantastic. I could never build such machines, even if I was working for years.

Joysticks, buttons, monitors, computers etc, are just components for me (at least for this project).
You connect the componets all together, but you still need something to control them. You need a controller. You can buy one, or you can make one.
I decided to build one myself, not because most people are buying them and not because I wanted to make a difference. I am building one myself, because this is what I am interested in (and saving money of course)

To answer your question the "completely homemade" title mostly goes to the controller (meaning the system that puts them all together, including the gun).
So, for me it just comes down to "I did everything I am interested in doing myself" (hardware and software)

At the end, it's not going to be better than the commercial ones, but it will work and that's enough for me!
After all it's just a suggestion (among others).

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

I think the difficulty people are understanding your intention, and the difficulty you're having in expressing it, comes down to expectations in the way things are phrased.

By titling this thread "my completely homemade arcade machine", I believe this is being interpreted by native English speakers to mean "completely" in a very literal sense. By choosing the phrase "completely homemade", an English reader understand this to mean that every single component should be manufactured by you. Likewise there is an understanding by English natives that by choosing this phrase as part of the title of your thread, you are emphasizing this fact as a defining feature of your build.

The problem with phrasing this in this way is that it gives the impression that you are attempting to call attention specifically to the home making of components that others would simply buy. And while you are attempting to build some components that most people simply purchase, there are still those components that you are not home making, such as the operating system, the emulator itself, the buttons, the sticks. By emphasizing the homemade nature of your cab, an english native probably assumes some degree of 'comparison' between your cab and any other cab here on the forums. From that view point, ANY cab on this site, even those made from a kit, is still a homemade cab, and thus to call yours 'completely homemade' while simply buying components like the buttons and sticks comes off as dishonest, even if that is not your intention.

Translation is hard.

[arximidis]

I think the difficulty people are understanding your intention, and the difficulty you're having in expressing it, comes down to expectations in the way things are phrased.

By titling this thread "my completely homemade arcade machine", I believe this is being interpreted by native English speakers to mean "completely" in a very literal sense. By choosing the phrase "completely homemade", an English reader understand this to mean that every single component should be manufactured by you. Likewise there is an understanding by English natives that by choosing this phrase as part of the title of your thread, you are emphasizing this fact as a defining feature of your build.

The problem with phrasing this in this way is that it gives the impression that you are attempting to call attention specifically to the home making of components that others would simply buy. And while you are attempting to build some components that most people simply purchase, there are still those components that you are not home making, such as the operating system, the emulator itself, the buttons, the sticks. By emphasizing the homemade nature of your cab, an english native probably assumes some degree of 'comparison' between your cab and any other cab here on the forums. From that view point, ANY cab on this site, even those made from a kit, is still a homemade cab, and thus to call yours 'completely homemade' while simply buying components like the buttons and sticks comes off as dishonest, even if that is not your intention.

Translation is hard.

I agree...

Because my implementation has something different, I wanted samehow to write it in the title
It's about a differnet approach (at least for some things). You can understand that it would be difficult to discribe them in a title like this:
"My homemade arcade cab,  with a homemage game controller and a homemade frontend (but all other components, programs, games etc, are not homemage)"
And it has some other homemade stuff too (like the tilt sensors and the gun)

Either way, I can not change the title

However, the moderators can change it to "my homemade game machine" or to "just a homemade machine".
I don't have any problem.

[bkenobi]

No need to change it.  As cotmm68030 said above, the problem is in translation.  Even as a native English speaker, I might choose a similar title for my build thread if I were to post a similar project.  I was simply trying to understand what the goal of the project was since the title and implementation were not exactly congruous.

 

[arximidis]

I can understand the confusion. And this is not only for native English speakers. Same thing in other languages too

Even when you say "My homemade machine" wou will encouter the same problems. What will be homemade. If your buttons, joystics are not homemade, then why you said the machine homemade...

Think a battery charger as a DIY project. You buy a ready chip for the job (see MAXIM). You build the pcb and you have a homemade charger (you didn't purchase a charger, you build it yourself)
Another fellow is doing the same thing, but instead of buying the chip, he is creating a circuit from other electronic componets. He is not creating all the other necessary parts, like the first fellow.
They both end up with a homemade charger.
The question is what's the difference? (if any)

[bkenobi]

Yup.  Noone expects someone building a "completely homemade cabinet" to develop and manufacture every IC in the thing.  Like I said, the only confusion was where the line was being drawn.  And you answered it nicely by saying that you are building everything that you have an interest in building.  Good enough for me!   

[Unstupid]

Yup.  Noone expects someone building a "completely homemade cabinet" to develop and manufacture every IC in the thing. 

But if someone actually did it, that would be awesome...  Even "god-like"!   

[arximidis]

Yup.  Noone expects someone building a "completely homemade cabinet" to develop and manufacture every IC in the thing.

But if someone actually did it, that would be awesome...  Even "god-like"!   

No one does that. Even the original arcade games were not completely homemade. Yes they created the cabins, the circuit boards and the code of the games, but they didn't build the buttons, the joystics, the coin acceptors nor the processors. Everybody works in this way. It's stupid to rediscover the wheel.

But it's not stupid trying to build a different controller or a homemade coin acceptor. The only differnece is that a coin acceptor can be a standalone project. We are not using coin acceptros only in game machines. Same thing with buttons and joystics. Buttons, are buttons. I can use them everywhere. Joystics too. For example, I can use a Joystic to move a robot (or a remote control vehicle)
However the controller is specified only for the game machine. There is no meaning using it somewhere else. Same thing with e.g. i-pac. It's only for game machines. But it's not homemade...

This was what I was thinking, when I wrote the word "completely" in the title of the thread.
I was refering to the hardware, that it can be used for the game machine only. And exactly this is what I am intersted in.

I wrote the necessary software, only because of the hardware. To make it work, with the other systems. Think of the code something like a driver for windows.
On the other hand, I wrote the frontend only because the commercial or freeware frontends, will not cooparate with my hardware (I didn't said that in previous posts, but that was the main reason I wrote the FrontEnd).
I would prefered to wrote only the code of the keyboard mapper, which is the only software that communicates with the hardware directly. Again, I had no luck

[arximidis]

Question

Hello again!
I have a simple question

Is there a way making a frontend (like hyperspin), executing an external program (taking command arquments) just before a game is loaded and just after the game terminates?

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Mentioned here:
http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9010

The "Hyperlaunch" AutoHotKey script gets passed variables, and from there you can script it to do basically anything pre and post launch. It's a pretty modular platform.

[arximidis]

Mentioned here:
http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9010

The "Hyperlaunch" AutoHotKey script gets passed variables, and from there you can script it to do basically anything pre and post launch. It's a pretty modular platform.

Thanks for the reply cotmm68030

Do you mean it can do that without Autohotkey program present? I am asking because I don't want to run one million programs (so to speak) just to load a game.
I want to press one key and hyperspin to load the selected game... before that I want it to load another program (and hyperspin pass the name of the  game and emulator)
Same thing when game terminates

I tested hyperspin today and I have some other questions too

Why CPU load is going over 80% for a pentium 4 3GHz computer ? (due to that fact, video is not playing correctly... and frames are lost)
What if I setup hyperspin on an older computer?

Why AVG finds a trojan in hyperHQ?

[arximidis]

For the trojan thing I did the update (to 1.1) at now everything looks ok forHyperHQ

but not for hyperspin... AVG finds a trojan there

What the...
probably a false alarm

[bkenobi]

I think launch before/after is pretty common for good front ends.  I use GameEx and it actually has 3 options.

1. Launch before - launch the command before the game/app is loaded and wait for it to finish
2) Launch also - launch the command at the same time and continue loading the game/app
3- Launch after - launch after the game/app terminates

Between the three options, you should find a way to do anything you want.

Oh and as for AHK...since GameEx (and presumably all FE's) only launch a single command, you will need to use a script of some kind (AHK, AI, batch, etc) to perform multiple tasks.  Batch obviously doesn't require anything to be installed.  AHK and AI require the interpreter on the system UNLESS you want to build the script elsewhere and compile to an executable.  If you do that, you don't need either installed on the cabinet.

[arximidis]

Merry Christmas

Few things I have done since last time
I bought the back door wood (mdf) and placed it to the cabinet with hinges (total 3).
I also placed the handle. In the future I will put a lock too

The hinges are not like the ones we use for our furniture (e.g. the cabinets in the kitchen)
When you open the door, the hinge is moving it in such a way in order to avoid hitting the sides (The hinges are forming an angle)

In order to have a perfect fit, you must measure the inner dimensions accurately and cut the wood about 3mm smaller for each dimension





And a video... Perfect fit!

[DaOld Man]

Good job!
I would definitely put a lock or a couple of screws on that door, you wouldnt want anyone getting in easy with the TV yoke exposed like that. (Serious shock hazard).

[arximidis]

Good job!
I would definitely put a lock or a couple of screws on that door, you wouldnt want anyone getting in easy with the TV yoke exposed like that. (Serious shock hazard).

I am planning to do so 


Today I fixed the small door in front of the cabinet. This door is used to access the coin bucket
The hinges are the same like the ones for the back door.













And a video...

[wizkid32]

Very impressive.  I almost went all homemade, but my lack of skills deterred me.  I ended up customizing a lot of stuff, though.

[Green Giant]

I agree. I don't like it either. But I already bought the buttons

Just call it a Neo Geo inspired button configuration!   

Screw that, switch those colors around.

I see 2 red, 2 blue, 2 white, 2 green, 2 yellow, and 2 black.

You can have the American controls and the African controls.

[arximidis]

Very impressive.  I almost went all homemade, but my lack of skills deterred me.  I ended up customizing a lot of stuff, though.

I don't have them either. Ok, I know electronics and programming, but it's the first time I am building something like this (never worked with wood before)
The good thing is that you learn a lot, if you ever deside to start a project like that. And I did learn a lot of stuff

Screw that, switch those colors around.

I see 2 red, 2 blue, 2 white, 2 green, 2 yellow, and 2 black.

You can have the American controls and the African controls.

switch them how?. You mean the white with the red one etc?
Maybe it will look better


This is a picture of the machine as it looks right know (it's little dusty)





And a video...

[Green Giant]

Screw that, switch those colors around.

I see 2 red, 2 blue, 2 white, 2 green, 2 yellow, and 2 black.

You can have the American controls and the African controls.

switch them how?. You mean the white with the red one etc?
Maybe it will look better

I mean one player has 2 of each color.  First row and second row would be the same colors making a red/white/blue and green/black/yellow controls.


Now you would go from a rainbow CP to a war of the nations CP.

[arximidis]

I mean one player has 2 of each color.  First row and second row would be the same colors making a red/white/blue and green/black/yellow controls.


Now you would go from a rainbow CP to a war of the nations CP.

Indeed... Maybe it will look better!
Thanks for the idea

[wizkid32]

Looking good.  Out of curiosity, what made you decide to make a cabaret style cab.?

[arximidis]

Looking good.  Out of curiosity, what made you decide to make a cabaret style cab.?

Thanks!
This style of cabinet was very common here in Greece. They were desined in my country and I really liked them (and still do).
So I built it as close as possible to the original cab.
They have some benefits. For example you can put it inside your house and it's easy to move

[arximidis]

Some people are asking me why didn't I use I-PAC
Well, from the start there were some "special" things I wanted to do, that I-PAC couldn't provide. I had to build a separate controller for all the other "stuff". My thinking was, why to use two different controllers for the machine and not just one?
By using one controller I could also save a lot of money. If you consider that I spend about 130 euros (165 dollars) for all the components (excluding only the front glass that I haven't bought yet) and I-pac costs (on ebay) about 39 dollars without shipping (for my country total cost is about 75 dollars), then its a lot of money (more than one third of total price)

What are the "special" things I am talking about?
Well, here are some of them

This was what I wanted for the power up procedure:
a) When the machine is in standby mode, the television and speakers must be completely turned off (lower power consuption). Only the PC will be in standby mode (PSU and mobo)
b) The machine will start with only one button (the ignition key)

By turning the ignition key the controller powers up the PC (like when you press the power button of the PC)
Then, a relay closes and powers up the speakers and the television, by upplying the 230 Volts (or 110V) to the power cords (of course the power switches are always on)
Some televisions start when you plug them, but others go in standby mode (like mine). In this case you must press the channel up/down button in the TV's front panel. Well, this is what my controller does and succesfully powers up the TV (and all the other components)


For the coin acceptor
I am using a coin acceptor like this one (KAI 638):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CH-Electronic-CPU-Coin-Selector-coin-Acceptor-sorter-/250795594138?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6495119a

It works with 12Volt power supply, but you can switch the output to open collector state.
This is very important for me, because I can directly connect the output of the coin acceptor to the game controller, with only one pullup resistor
The same thing you must do, if you want to connect it with i-pac.
I don't think its possible to directly connect it (you will also need the pullup resistor), because I think i-pac works with a 5volt power supply (driven from the usb or the ps/2 port).But this is not the important thing.

Imagine you start the machine and windows have not yet started (so mame is not loaded yet). If your coin acceptor is directly powered from your PC's PSU then it will be functional even before MAME is loaded. If you accidentally insert a coin then you will "loose" it, because it will not give you a credit (MAME has not load yet)
The same thing will happen when you are in the frontEnd and you are selecting games. By inserting a valid coin, you will have no credits and you will "loose" the coin

In my case, the controller is powering up the coin acceptor only if a game is loaded. In every other state, power is off and when you insert a coin you will get it back, by pulling down the special handle of the coin acceptor

[arximidis]

Update...

Changed the old 20 inch monitor with a larger one (25 - 26 inch. Not measured it yet)











Edit: Its a 24inch CRT monitor and not 25-26inch (I measured it today). I am used only with the metric system. Sorry

[paigeoliver]

Please for the love of games, stop saying "CONTROLLER".

The thing that you wire everything into is called an encoder or an interface.

The things on your control panel are called joysticks.

A controller is the thing that you plug into your nintendo.

[drventure]

Please for the love of games, stop saying "CONTROLLER".

I dunno, his grasp of English is way better than my Greek, even if he misuses "controller" a few times 

Nice job on the cabinet, BTW

[dextercf]

A controller is the thing that you plug into your nintendo.

Joypad

[javeryh]

I love the original design you've got there.  Is it comfortable to play?

[arximidis]

Please for the love of games, stop saying "CONTROLLER".

The thing that you wire everything into is called an encoder or an interface.

The things on your control panel are called joysticks.

A controller is the thing that you plug into your nintendo.

When I say "controller" I am not refering to the control panel (the joysticks etc) but to the circuit board where all things are connected and controlled (TV, PC, Joysticks, sensors etc)
The main reason I call it that way, is because it's based on a microcontroller (and to be more specific an AVR). Now, microcontroller -> controller

Interface is the way things are connected and communicating, but not how things are controlled
A communication can be achived with one or more protocols
(For example I use PS/2 protocol and RS232 for the communication between the microcontroller and the computer)

I use an AVR of the tiny series, even if I have a lot of the mega series (like the AVR arduino uses)
I prefer to use the "mega AVRs" to other (more robotic) projects
The program is written in C (gcc compiler for AVR)

I haven't write details for the controller (the circuit board ) yet, because I was focusing on finishing the cab. I have lot of things to write and schematics to post It's not over yet!

P.S. I know my English are bad!

...
Nice job on the cabinet, BTW

Thanks!

I love the original design you've got there.  Is it comfortable to play?

That depends on your size
Keep in mind that it's a mini cab (about 115 cm height)

[paigeoliver]

I do indeed understand why you are using the word "controller", but the community decided on the words encoder and interface to describe that item about 10-12 years ago and every one you can buy has a control chip of some sort on it.

So basically controller is the wrong english term for what you are talking about in the hobby you are discussing, and thus many people may have some level of confusion as to what you are talking about. Particularly those who don't read your entire thread.

I do enjoy your cabinet design. I used to have a similar one, a metal "Candy" cabinet. It was very comfortable to play on.

[arximidis]

Still, I don't thing we are talking about the same thing
When you use the words encoder or interface, you are refering to what exactly? Something like I-PAC?

If this is the case, then we are not refering to the same item. I use a custom board, capable of doing more than what I-PAC does (and I don't mean that it's better than I-PAC, but it's more suitable for my case)

For example... There is no way to power my television on with I-PAC alone. TV is completely off (disconnected), even in standby mode. I-PAC can only handle the buttons and joysticks. There is no way to handle my electronic coin acceptor (the way I want to be handled). There is no way to use the "ignition key" (again in the way I want to use it)

Thank you for your nice words. I put a lot of effort on building this cab and I had never build something using wood before. I don't even have all the necessary tools.

[paigeoliver]

The fact that your board does more than an I-Pac doesn't change what it is called.

Here, Happ Controls sells something along the lines of what you are designing. They also call it an interface. But they probably don't know what they are talking about either.

http://na.suzohapp.com/joysticks/950800xx.htm

Still, I don't thing we are talking about the same thing
When you use the words encoder or interface, you are refering to what exactly? Something like I-PAC?

If this is the case, then we are not refering to the same item. I use a custom board, capable of doing more than what I-PAC does (and I don't mean that it's better than I-PAC, but it's more suitable for my case)

For example... There is no way to power my television on with I-PAC alone. TV is completely off (disconnected), even in standby mode. I-PAC can only handle the buttons and joysticks. There is no way to handle my electronic coin acceptor (the way I want to be handled). There is no way to use the "ignition key" (again in the way I want to use it)

Thank you for your nice words. I put a lot of effort on building this cab and I had never build something using wood before. I don't even have all the necessary tools.

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Is it time to throw an arduino into the project yet? (:



edit: typo

[arximidis]

The fact that your board does more than an I-Pac doesn't change what it is called.

Here, Happ Controls sells something along the lines of what you are designing. They also call it an interface. But they probably don't know what they are talking about either.

http://na.suzohapp.com/joysticks/950800xx.htm

Again I don't think it's the same thing. The item in the link you provided (UGCI) is indeed an interface. What it does, is interfacing (connecting) all the controls (joysticks, buttons, trackballs etc) to the computer.
My board is doing the same thing, but not so good like UGCI (it supports only buttons and a special type of joysticks). If you need the best interface, then it's not suitable for you. Use I-PAC or UGCI instead

The difference in my case, is that the circuit board is not only an interface. It can provide some type of automations to the machine
For example
Imagine that you have the machine in standby mode. For monitor, I am using a television. All TVs have remote controls.
I want to power on the machine, by pressing a special button on the remote. Normally this will power on only the television. Things are even worse, because in standby mode, TV is completely switched off
Power on is not like pressing a button on the control panel (which is just saying to the copmputer: "buttonA is pressed or released"). When I am powering the machine on I must do specific actions. I must seperately switch on the TV and the computer (and I can't use a double switch. PC expects a pulse signal).

I can explain it better only in my language... Interface is an interconnection. It interpretes the signals so the computer can understand them.
In the other hand, when you want automations, you need controllers.

However, I don't now if I am writting it right in English.
There is a significant difference between an interface and a controller. That was why I used the word controller, as it was more suitable for the case
A controller is monitoring (e.g. monitoring the status of the machine) and reading input data from one or more sensors. Depending on the input data is "thinking" and then it's responding (reacting)

Is it time to through an arduino into the project yet? (:

I am not going to use an arduino for this machine (however someone could).
The program is almost ready and written with gcc for an ATtiny2313 (I don't need more power for a machine like that. At least for now )

[paigeoliver]

 

I totally caught the very first time that your board has some great power related features that are well outside the scope of what interface boards normally do, and congratulations for coming up with a new design.


 
But I absolutely promise you that in english, in the arcade realm, the word controller isn't used like that by itself, regardless of what it does. Probably because it inherently creates confusion as the controller in relation to games in english primarily means gamepad, joystick, trackball, etc. The community itself rarely uses the word at all. However arcade service literature will often use it, but normally to refer to the primary game control (usually when it isn't a joystick).

I suggest just giving the board you are designing a name, such as "Master Control Board" or something.

Although, you know you could have solved most of the problems you are solving with your Master Control Board by using a monitor rather than a television set and the rest of them with a bit of wiring.

[arximidis]

...your board has some great power related features....

Never said that. On the contrary some people have asked what do they need in order to build a homemade arcade machine and I replied... you need that, that... and I-PAC! (because it's the best for the job)

...that are well outside the scope of what interface boards normally do...

How can I initialize the coin acceptor with I-PAC (or any other interface) only when a game is loaded?. When I am in the frontend, I want the coin acceptor to be disabled... and not further accept any coins (don't ask why. I simply want this)


As I said before this thread is about an implementetion. I never suggested or implied that this machine is better than every other machine presented in this forum (or all over the internet)
Also I am not trying to come up with a new design... I am only saying.. Hey guys I am building a machine this way

I sell nothing!

My primary goal was to save some money. The television (24 inch SONY trinitron) was for FREE!
Total cost of the circuit board was... zero, because I already had the neccessary components. But even I didn't had them, they cost about 10 euros or even less (if you use internet). I-PAC costs about 70 euros with shipping


When you trying to build something, there are more than one ways to do it. I followed this way and that is what I present here

[404]

Arguing over "proper terminology"? Seriously, who cares.

You did a great job arximidis! Hope you get tons of enjoyment from this excellent creation.

[arximidis]

Arguing over "proper terminology"? Seriously, who cares.

You did a great job arximidis! Hope you get tons of enjoyment from this excellent creation.

Thanks!

[codefenix]

Arguing over "proper terminology"? Seriously, who cares.

I disagree.  Words have meanings.  Misusing words causes confusion.  All of paigeoliver's points are valid, the discussion derailing notwithstanding. 

Arximidis's device is perhaps best labeled as an "interface", even though it has functions which take it beyond what most interfaces do.  It sits between the controls and the hardware, and allows the hardware to be operated by the controls.  If that's not an interface, I don't know what is.

Nice job on all you've done so far, arximidis!  Keep up the good work.

[arximidis]

I disagree.  Words have meanings.  Misusing words causes confusion.  All of paigeoliver's points are valid, the discussion derailing notwithstanding.  

Arximidis's device is perhaps best labeled as an "interface", even though it has functions which take it beyond what most interfaces do.  It sits between the controls and the hardware, and allows the hardware to be operated by the controls.  If that's not an interface, I don't know what is.

Nice job on all you've done so far, arximidis!  Keep up the good work.

I disagree too. Interface in the long term is the way you interact with the machine and not the way you control it (or how you control the internal parts)
Gamers (or users) use the word controllers for the input devices (joysticks, joypads, trackballs etc). I am an electrical engineer and I use the word controller for a device that controls (monitors etc) all the internal parts of a machine

PS. Thanks for the good words

[paigeoliver]

Ok, I am done. He can use all the confusing words he wants. His status as someone who speaks english as a second language and has a half built machine with an old tv set in it obviously means he knows much more about english arcade game terminology than native speakers who have been involved with the subject for years.

[Nephasth]

Ok, I am done.

Don't forget to wipe.

[arximidis]

Ok, I am done. He can use all the confusing words he wants. His status as someone who speaks english as a second language and has a half built machine with an old tv set in it obviously means he knows much more about english arcade game terminology than native speakers who have been involved with the subject for years.

LOL

The main problem here is that in English you use the same word for different things. There is no such a problem in my language, as we use different words

Here are the results from wiki:

Computing and electronics
Controller (computing), a chip or extension card that interfaces with a peripheral device
Game controller, an input device used for playing video games

Other devices
Controller (control theory), in control theory
PID controller, a device used in control systems
Controller (irrigation), a device to automate irrigation systems


edit: The device (or extension card) you call interface is also called... controller!
So I am asking again... where did I misused the word controller?

[paigeoliver]

Ok, I will wipe!

Yes, the problem does stem from the fact that we have words in english that mean many different things, but those meanings are not always weighted evenly.

In terms of a dictionary definition than yes you could use the word controller. However in doing so you are selecting a word that has a very different default meaning when it comes to the subject at hand. In the vast majority of minds the word controller in the subject of any sort of gaming will apply to the game controls themselves. That isn't the sort of thing that can be immediately apparent, particularly when covering a new subject outside of your native language.

So when you say controller in the terms of this hobby people immediately think of the more common usage and may not indeed ever be able to determine what you are talking about (depending on the length of the conversation). In fact many probably won't even be aware of the definition that you are meaning to get across.

Thus when you say, "I am designing my own controller". Everyone hears, "I am designing my own control panel".

When you say, "I am designing my own interface", they will immediately know what you are talking about. This is what I am trying to explain.

[CheffoJeffo]

Even I am not as pedantic as the two of you.

Cool project. Cool interoller board.

[arximidis]

...In the vast majority of minds the word controller in the subject of any sort of gaming will apply to the game controls themselves. That isn't the sort of thing that can be immediately apparent, particularly when covering a new subject outside of your native language.
So when you say controller in the terms of this hobby people immediately think of the more common usage and may not indeed ever be able to determine what you are talking about...

I understand what you are trynig to say

Thus when you say, "I am designing my own controller". Everyone hears, "I am designing my own control panel".

Yes, but if I use the same sentence in a forum for robotic (automation) hobbyist people, they will not hear "I am designing my own control panel", but exaclty what I am talking about.

However the "gap" in those sentences is enormous.
I am not used on using words that depend on which people are listening (especially when they know the definition of the word). In my language when I say a word (and people know that word) they will understand and they will not be confused (no matter their hobby)

I can not give you an example because you will not understand. But in Greek there is a specific word for the device you call controller (meaning the device you use to control - operate the machine with your hands). On the other hand a controller (the way I mean it) is another thing. And everybody will understand...

Even I am not as pedantic as the two of you.

Cool project. Cool interoller board.

 


edit: The word controller cames from the word control. So, the one (or something) that controls or doing the controlling stuff is called a controller. Am I right?
The same way you call the device that helps you control a machine with your hands. But for me a more appropriate word would be the "operating device". You operate the machine and not control it (in long terms, you control it with the operation -> meaning with your operating commands - instructions)

[SavannahLion]

I side with arximidis. It's an AVR based board. Hence controller. Anyone who started at the beginning of this thread would have grasped the meaning immediately..... Or maybe my project also uses an AVR for almost the same reasons and I just understands where he's coming from. Point is, controller has been defined in context and there is ZERO reason to attack him on it.

Controller vs Interface is petty. Try dealing with a discussion where the microcontroller is referred to as a stone. It's controller, leave it at that.

Cool project, do you have a circuit schematic? I'm curious as to how you managed your IO.

[bkenobi]

If it's based on the same chip as the Arduino (ATmega328), then it has 14 digital and 6 analog inputs.  At that point, if he has 2 analog joysticks and 12 buttons, he has 2 digital and 2 analog inputs left for other things.  I can't remember if these are analog sticks though.

[SavannahLion]

I think he mentioned it was an ATtiny 2313? I don't want to dig back through the posts. The 2313 only has 18 IO. Not sure how many, if any, is analog. He multiplexed his buttons to gain 25 though, leaving him 8 IO for other stuff.

The datasheet summary mentions an analog comparator but it isn't clear how many pins are used as analog.

[arximidis]

I side with arximidis. It's an AVR based board. Hence controller. Anyone who started at the beginning of this thread would have grasped the meaning immediately..... Or maybe my project also uses an AVR for almost the same reasons and I just understands where he's coming from. Point is, controller has been defined in context and there is ZERO reason to attack him on it.

Controller vs Interface is petty. Try dealing with a discussion where the microcontroller is referred to as a stone. It's controller, leave it at that.

Cool project, do you have a circuit schematic? I'm curious as to how you managed your IO.

At last, one person who understands exactly what I mean (especially if you are using an AVR chip for your project). The main question now is, if English are your native language
Because if indeed are your native language and you understand me in the first place, then I didn't misused any word!

Now. for the things you are asking...
Yes, I have the schematic (and I will upload it). I am also designing the pcb layout (and I will upload it too). The reason I haven't upload them until now, is because I changed them along the way

I had the first working design and when I was ready to upload it... I tested it, with the new version of MAME... and found out it wasn't working!!
I tried to explain the reason in previous posts. I can explain it again if you like

That was way I changed the whole circuit design (created a new one)

Until now I am using a tiny AVR microcontroller (ATtiny2313), because I don't need more I/O ports or cpu power (I use only digital inputs. Even the joysticks are digital). However I have wrote a program (for the PC) that communicates with the AVR and together can extend the possibilities (e.g. I can move the mouse pointer with the joysticks. A trackball is then not needed). There is also some type of voice control...

In the new circuit I use shift registers for loading the status of the buttons to the proccessor. Total number of registers is 3, hence 3*8 = 24 buttons. There is also a delay code to avoid debouncing effects
Because of the registers I use only 3 I/O ports of the microcontroller

If it's based on the same chip as the Arduino (ATmega328), then it has 14 digital and 6 analog inputs.  At that point, if he has 2 analog joysticks and 12 buttons, he has 2 digital and 2 analog inputs left for other things.  I can't remember if these are analog sticks though.

Until now I don't use an arduino, even if this would be a better idea. I save it, for other more robotic projects . However if things turn ugly, maybe I will use it



PS: Excuse me if things are going slow, but I work on this project only in my spare time

[arximidis]

Update

Testing the voice recognition system

[Le Chuck]

 

Great!  Fun video too, I like how you went with the goof rather than make sure everything looked perfect on the video. 

I never would have thought of integrating that capability.  Any plans to conceal the microphone?  I understand now why you were building your own Front End. 

[paigeoliver]

Someone loved Star Trek! "Computer. Freeze Simulation".

Very nice, never seen anyone do that before.

[arximidis]

Great!  Fun video too, I like how you went with the goof rather than make sure everything looked perfect on the video. 

I never would have thought of integrating that capability.  Any plans to conceal the microphone?  I understand now why you were building your own Front End. 

Thanks!  

Yes that was stupid... It's a bug. I changed the way the frontend is passing the parameters...  

I am planning to use a wireless microphone...

PS. I wanted more than this. The voice recognition has low response time (about 1-2 secs) and I wanted to play the games only with the voice (e.g. playing pacman by just saying up, down, left, right etc)
The responce time is crusial for games and 1-2secs delay is unacceptable

Someone loved Star Trek! "Computer. Freeze Simulation".

Very nice, never seen anyone do that before.

 

Thanks... It will be capable of freezing the game, stoping, "inserting coins" etc

[bkenobi]

How lazy is that?  When you die in TMNT and need another coin, many here would say you need to grab a coin/token to insert.  I have coin buttons on the CP for one cab and use the coin reject buttons on the coin door for the other.  On your cab, you simply say "Machine, insert coin" and keep playing.

I love it!   

[arximidis]

How lazy is that?  When you die in TMNT and need another coin, many here would say you need to grab a coin/token to insert.  I have coin buttons on the CP for one cab and use the coin reject buttons on the coin door for the other.  On your cab, you simply say "Machine, insert coin" and keep playing.

I love it!   

Yes you can do that... The cool thing is that the commands are customizable... For example "dude, insert coin" or whatever you like

Another thing is that you can select and load a game very fast (if you know the name)

[arximidis]

The last piece of the puzzle

The last thing in order to complete the cab is the frame of the front glass. I have already ordered the glass
In the following pictures you see how I am planning to mount it

[arximidis]

New Slide Show

[arximidis]

More Pictures (front glass)

[arximidis]

Preparing the front glass

[AlienInferno]

I'm kinda liking the cab's design now that I see the voice recognition software.  And going with paigeoliver's Star Trek comment I really think it would be nice with a Star Trek theme.  Not necessarily the people but more a theme focusing on the USS Enterprise itself.  Nice job so far.  Looks good with the glass in it.

[arximidis]

I'm kinda liking the cab's design now that I see the voice recognition software.  And going with paigeoliver's Star Trek comment I really think it would be nice with a Star Trek theme.  Not necessarily the people but more a theme focusing on the USS Enterprise itself.  Nice job so far.  Looks good with the glass in it.

Thank you for your nice words!

I never thought of that. It's a good idea indeed...

[arximidis]

Let's put some... sensors




Shock sensors








IR sensor (for remote control)

[arximidis]

Completed Cab... almost!

[arximidis]

Hello again after all these months

Well, a lot of things happened during this time that kept me occupied... and not working with the cab.
Unfortunatelly things are not looking good here in my country
In the past decades we were governed by thieves and traitors...
Enough with politics...

The last few days I found some time to complete the pcb layout of the game machine's controller.
This board is responsible for controlling the entire machine...
When it is completed, I will be able to fire up this baby at last

It can handle up to 32 buttons, emulate a PS/2 keyboard, startup TV and PC
Also it has an extention connector for future updates (e.g. infrared control, bluetooth etc)

In the following pictures you can see the completed pcb layout with and without the ground plane






Before I build the board I need to test the layout first...

[EightBySix]

Could you post a schematic? I'd like to see if I can understand it!

Are you writing the code for the encoder?

[RamjetR]

I can appreciate another Electronic engineers work and efforts. That looks great, and might I suggest if your doing a PCB Print run of those in a sheet with multiple panels. You could sell your surplus PCB's to others who may be interested?

Nice work, I'm very impressed.

Ramjet

[arximidis]

Could you post a schematic? I'd like to see if I can understand it!

Are you writing the code for the encoder?

I am not only planning to upload the schematics. I will upload the firmware too (open source)
Yes the code is written by me, using avr-gcc

I need to test them before I upload anything...

I can appreciate another Electronic engineers work and efforts. That looks great, and might I suggest if your doing a PCB Print run of those in a sheet with multiple panels. You could sell your surplus PCB's to others who may be interested?

Nice work, I'm very impressed.

Ramjet

I don't think that I will go on that road, meaning I am not planning to sell anything!

Everything in this project will be open (hardware and firmware)
The way I see it... In the arcade community we have open source emulators, open source FrontEnds... why not an open interface/controller?
Even though everybody is using something like I-PAC, I will upload my implementation for everyone who is willing to build it by hisown

[arximidis]

Hello!

I found some time today to build the circuit board... (even if I was really tired from work! Thank God the process is quite simple and it's not my first time .  Cleannig the mess requires more time )

I spotted some continuity errors on the layout regarding ground plane, but I had already etched the board. At first I thought the board was over etched, but the problem was to the mask itself (the layout)
I fixed the problems (so, you don't hyave to worry about it), however I am not going to build a new board, because it is very easy to fix the continuity problems directly on the board


continuity errors of the ground plane


Actually the board was not over etched. Notice the same continuity errors on the mask (FIXED THEM)



Soon I will upload more photos from the entire process

[arximidis]

The last piece of the puzzle

After the completion of the game controller/interface and the nessesary tests, the last piece of the whole machine is next

This is the gun!
Yesterday, I bought two guns that are looking good for the job. They cost me about 2 euros each
I bought two of them, because I didn't know which is more appropriate. Turned out that both are ok
They have plenty of space for the nessesary electronics/buttons and batteries (I am willing to make the gun wireless), even for the Laser

This is a photo showing the two guns (They are common plastic cap guns)



A photo of one of the guns, opened

[arximidis]

Hello again

Few months ago someone asked me to send him the plans of the cab via email. The problem was that I never had a fancy schematic to publish (even now)
However, I gave him the only sketch I got. It's in bad shape but it is possible to help some of you (or give you ideas), if you are willing to build a cab like mine

Ofcourse in the future I will create better sketches, but this will take some time, unless someone is willing to make better ones (I will publish his name in my site and in every forum I am posting)

If you have any questions or you don't understand something, feel free to ask me (here).

Thank you and have a nice vacation

These are the basic dimensions... only some details are missing. Feel free to ask

[drventure]

Noticed the shock sensors you used and I'm curious...

Are those just mercury switches?

And what will you be using them for?

[arximidis]

Noticed the shock sensors you used and I'm curious...

Are those just mercury switches?

And what will you be using them for?

Yes, they are mercury switches. They are positioned in such a way, that with the combination of the processor, the are activating when you shake the machine, the same way you'd shake a pinball machine.
I placed these sensors for pinball simulators (and one of the best I beleive is extreme pinball )

[arximidis]

The controller/interface (based on a ATTiny2313)

[drventure]

Wow. Nicely done!

[arximidis]

Wow. Nicely done!

Thanks!

[arximidis]

Making the PCB (post 1)

In my opinion the simplest way to make a Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is with the following procedure (described in few steps)

The general idea is using a photosensitive board, which we expose to some kind of light source (even the Sun will do, but you need to know the exposure time).
With a simple mask, we cover the parts of the board where we don't want to be exposed

After the exposure, we remove the "burned" layer (meaning the one we didn't cover with the mask) with a chemical. This chemical will leave the underneath copper layer exposed, so we will be able to remove it with a chemical process known as etching.

When etching is completed we clean the remaining copper with alchohol (the "blue stuff" we have in our houses  ) and our PCB is ready. Ok, the last step is drilling...


Step 1 - Creating the mask
In order to build the mask we must first draw the pcb layout. We can do this with a software. I used a freeware program called ExpressPCB (http://www.expresspcb.com/).
When we complete our drawing we are ready to print the mask. Prefer a Laser printer for this. It is like printing a black and white picture and we do it directly from ExpressPCB.
Of Course we don't print the mask in a normal paper. We need the transparency. So, we must use a photo-paper



For better results I printed the mask twice and place the one on top of the other




Step 2 - Preparing the board
We cut a photosensitive board equal to the dimensions of the mask. We place the mask on top of the board (after we remove the sticker that is protecting the board)





Usually I am placing a glass on top of the board and the mask to keep the mask in position




The next step is exposure

[molton]

That is the best idea ever making your own circuit board to do exactly what you want it to do, this is the coolest thing I've ever seen on here, inspiring work!  Thanks for all the how to info.

[paigeoliver]

So how are the guns going to work on a lowboy cabinet with the screen tilted way back like that?

[yotsuya]

So how are the guns going to work on a lowboy cabinet with the screen tilted way back like that?

You have to stand on a ladder, obviously. Duh. 

[arximidis]

So how are the guns going to work on a lowboy cabinet with the screen tilted way back like that?

Hello

You can use a simple linear transformation... The tilted screen is not a problem (all the other mathematics are  )

As I said before, I am not going to use a system like the aimtrack. Aimtrack is using an infrared camera. I have something else in mind.

It looks like it's working, at least in theory (meaning that I have already figured out the sensors I must use to solve the problem) and in some tests I made
The cool thing is that it doesn't require calibration (except from entering the required parameters, only in first use)
However I don't now the accuracy of the system (it may be prove a failure). That is why I am not presenting it yet

My first goal is to finish the cab

I have already finished the controller/interface from August but still I haven't test it yet. Not even powered it yet (And the only thing is not finished, is the code for the shift registers. The PS/2 emulation is working)
Recently I lost my father and haven't been working with the machine  for a while
And I don't know when I will work again with it... It may take a while...


PS. Everything in this project will be open source - open hardware

[paigeoliver]

I wasn't concerned with how they are wired or interfaced. What I meant is that pointing guns downward at a screen would be pretty awkward. Gun games traditionally have almost no tilt to the screen. Most I have even seen is in the Nintendo Red Tent cocktails and their tilt is very mild compared to your lowboy cabinet.

[arximidis]

From that point of view, you have right. It's little awkward indeed
However I am not far away from the screen (the screen has medium size, about 24 inches)
I tested firing (without the electronics) and it didn't look so bad

I am creating the machine just for fun... (and learning). I wouldn't call myself a gamer...
This is the main reason I am creating the electronics myself... (I am focusing on the hardware stuff and not the software)
At first I didn't know the parameterization capabilities of the known front-ends, so I started creating my own, in order to establish communication with my hardware.
However, I will continue to update it (mostly the voice recognition system). Until now is the most suitable frontend for me

Meanwhile another fellow Greek started a new project for a frontend and until now he has done a great job. Maybe I use his software
(http://code.google.com/p/extrafe/) still in beta

The good thing is that I am planning to show how everything is build and publish the necessary schematics and firmware (along with the source)
Think of it as an alternative to what you are using... Not better... just an alternative (for free )

And if you can build stuff, then maybe you find it useful (and you will save some money )

[arximidis]

Update

After all these months I finally tested it

It Works!!!

Only one modification to the schematic (I forgot the pull down resistors to the shift registers). Turned out to be very important

How this thing works is very simple
It's a PS/2 keyboard emulator... It is connected to the PS/2 port and to the serial port (or to a USB with a USB to serial converter)

A resident program is running to the PC communicating with the frontend. Each time the FrontEnd sends the button combination to the resident program, depending on the emulator/game you selected.
Then the resident program sends it to the board through the serial port

The board is also responsible to start the machine (TV is completely off, to save power. Same thing for the speakers amp)
You can start the machine with a safety key or by pressing some buttons (a combination of them that you are able to specify)

P.S. Another update I am planning, is to control the machine with an android phone via Bluetooth
And also with a toy gun!!!

[danny_galaga]

An excellent gaming odyssey Arximidis (",)

I was hoping you had made the joysticks too though 

[paigeoliver]

Hey,  congratulations! Getting any project done is good for your heart. Particularly a first project. You reinvented the wheel 5 or 6 times with this one, so it is even more of a personal victory. 

[arximidis]

An excellent gaming odyssey Arximidis (",)

I was hoping you had made the joysticks too though 

Unfortunately now I have limited time... When I started the project I was unemployed... Things now changed

However the previous weekend I found some time and worked with it

When I complete the tests, I will upload the schematics and firmware (open project).

I know I am working too slow, but eventually I will complete it

Hey,  congratulations! Getting any project done is good for your heart. Particularly a first project. You reinvented the wheel 5 or 6 times with this one, so it is even more of a personal victory. 

Well, I don't understand your comment. I never said I am building something revolutionary...

When I read your comment it's like you are saying for example:
"Hey don't create a new FrontEnd, because you reinventing the wheel... we already have one". With this kind of thinking there is only room for only one FrontEnd. Thank God this is not how everybody thinks.
We have commercial and open FrontEnds and there is always room for another one

Same thing with the interface... There are already commercial solutions... I am building an open solution here... Why not?
And if there is already an open solution out there, there is always room for another one...
My goal is simplicity... something that can be easily build by others

And if someone doesn't like it... he can ignore it (freedom of choice)


It has nothing to do with reinventing the wheel...


PS This is not my first project... This is my first cab...

[paigeoliver]

That wasn't really intended to be an insult. I have honestly never seen someone design their own hardware and software from scratch with a first project. You might be the first person to have ever done that.

[Le Chuck]

A lot of this forum is dedicated to reinventing the wheel because it is not yet perfectly round. Thanks for giving us more options to fashion our own wheels.

Take a chill pill, you done good man! 

[DaOld Man]

A great job!
 

[arximidis]

That wasn't really intended to be an insult. I have honestly never seen someone design their own hardware and software from scratch with a first project. You might be the first person to have ever done that.

I wasn't insulted. After all you didn't say anything to insult me (Generally I am not insulted easily )
I only said, I don't understand and I disangree with this kind of thinking

It is not my first project... I work with electronics all the time... However, It was the first time I build something out of wood

Moreover, I have something than most of you guys don't. I am not much of a gamer, so I didn't mind to wait more, to complete the cab. Most of you, are gamers and you want to start playing with your cab as soon as possible.
Me, in the other hand, is very possible to give the cab away, when I complete it (complete  = to the degree I will be satisfied by the result)

A lot of this forum is dedicated to reinventing the wheel because it is not yet perfectly round. Thanks for giving us more options to fashion our own wheels.

Take a chill pill, you done good man! 

My wheel is not perfectly round eather. Maybe it's even worse than others.
This thread it's not about reinventions or whatever. It's just an implementation.
The cool thing is that I will publish everything... I do have problem in designing the plans for the cab, but I'll try to create same sketches

A great job!
 

Thanks

[arximidis]

[arximidis]

The time for the schematics has arrived

As you may know, I started building the cab without having any design plans. That is way I didn't upload anything
After completing the cab, I thought it will be difficult to draw them. So all this time I was avoiding it. Thanks to google sketchup program, I manage to draw them very quickly. And it is the first time I use the program

I have already complete the designing. Only the internal parts, the holes and the doors are remaining
I will use different files so to directly load them to the program (in order to help you out).
Each file will have extra information

In the followning pictures you can see my work so far. These are the actual dimesions, even in thickness. The boards are the ones I actually used. The mdf sides are in correct shape with a very small error, less than 3mm (mostly on the curves). The possition of the boards are absolute, except in some cases where I have a less than 3mm error

The design palns are pretty close to the actual cab. I wish I had them when I started the project
This google sketchUP program is fantastic. Extremelly easy to go from 2D to 3D.

[arximidis]

Desing plans. The internal

There are few things to draw left and it will be ready     (ready to upload  )

[arximidis]

Two things are missing now. The holes of the controls and something to the coin acceptor. The latter is more difficult not because is hard to draw, but because I must unscrew the coin accepton from the machine to take the mesurements (this drawings are exact replica of my cab)



The backet



The pathway

[arximidis]

Design plans

I have uploaded the basic schematics of the cab in google's sketchup (version
Later I will upload pictures showing the dimensions (like blueprints)

http://users.ntua.gr/dpiperid/MyWebPage/Contructions/others/mame/schematics/designcabEN.htm

[Damian]

What became of your gun controller? Are you still pursuing your mysterious (and intriguing) new design?

Nice work on all of this stuff. I think it's cool that you made your own hardware interface.

Damian

[arximidis]

What became of your gun controller? Are you still pursuing your mysterious (and intriguing) new design?

Nice work on all of this stuff. I think it's cool that you made your own hardware interface.

Damian

Thanks Damian

Well, the problem was that I left some things behind, so I have set my priorities on the to-do list
I am thinking first to upload all the design plans for the cab
Then to complete and upload the schematics for the interface (upload also the necessary firmware and step by step instructions). I already have the first update for the interface, as an extension (=controlling the machine with your android phone. Play pacman by simply giving a slope to your phone, right, left, forwards and backwards --> my English sucks . I don't now how to write it better. This is also one of the reasons I am uploading to English forums. To improve them. So feel free to correct me )


When I complete all that, then I will work on the gun controller

About the gun controller:
I already bought the necessary hardware (meaning that I will build it eventually). My design is based on ultrasound and a gyro (and accelerometer) and infrared (I need the speed of light for sync reasons).
I am measuring the distance with ultrasound sensors (made some tests already) and the angles with the gyro (accelerometer). Well it's not so easy and I don't know if it will work better than other solutions, but it's a challenge for me. After all I am not much of a gamer and I don't think I will ever play with the cab. I prefer building stuff
One cool thing looks like to be, it will not need recalibration

[arximidis]

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[arximidis]

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[arximidis]

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[arximidis]

All connections diagram

[arximidis]

Hello again and a happy new year to all

Meanwhile regarding this project I am very unlucky
As you may know I have created my custom controller/interface for a while and 2 or more months ago, I finally put the final "touches" to the code.
Just before the first test, my computer died and I had to replace it. Thank God, I had another one lying around. I also found a better way to attach it in the machine. So, no harm no foul.
I connected the controller/interface and the wires for the buttons and joystics (as you see in the pictures).
And just when I was ready for the first (complete) test, my television died!!!
Now, It's really hard to fix, because it's imposible to move the machine to my lab. On the other hand, my workload has increased (and it will increase more) and is difficult to find time for the machine or the other projects I am working on...
The thing is that these problems are holding me back and I really want to start my (light) - gun project...   
And I have a couple of other projects to start (nothing to do with the machine) 

[arximidis]

TEST DRIVE

This is probably the last post on this thread.
Any update I'll post it in a new thread



You don't see it in the video, but I have also tested the "shock " sensors. They are working just fine!!!