Author Topic: I'm looking for a small "SmartStrip" (or equivalent) - Help! (Read 7371 times)

javeryh · « **on:** August 10, 2011, 02:47:51 pm »

Anyone know where to find a small SmartStrip like power strip? I'm looking for something with one "hot" outlet and 2 dormant plugs that power on when the "hot" one is powered up.

Thanks!

Nephasth · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2011, 03:03:11 pm »

This was the closest thing I could find that matched what you were describing.

javeryh · « **Reply #2 on:** August 10, 2011, 08:17:35 pm »

Pretty good... I wonder how big it is. I wish I knew of a way to plug three things into an outlet on the inside of a cabinet like this:

but have one of them be the hot plug.

BobA · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2011, 12:40:10 am »

Found this really small smart strip at Wally Mart

javeryh · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2012, 01:59:04 pm »

I hate bumping an old thread but I'm still looking for a very small "smart" power strip. 4 outlets is plenty. My google skills fail me.

bkenobi · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2012, 02:18:48 pm »

These are a lot more common now. I saw a few options at Fry's last time I was there. I don't think the smallest would meet your need, though.

Nephasth · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2012, 02:28:41 pm »

Didn't see this one last go around.

javeryh · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2012, 02:53:43 pm »

Hmmm... that looks like it would be a little larger than a standard wall outlet. I'm not sure that is small enough though.

I want to plug in a computer (hot), speaker (passive) and monitor (passive) with the idea being that pushing the power button on the computer will "wake up" the monitor and speakers. I guess I could try splicing the three cords together but I'm not sure how to go about doing that - especially with respect to the speaker plug because it is a brick (so I assume there is junk in there that regulates power flow). It looks like this:

The other 2 cords are the standard thick black three prongers that you see used with most computer power supplies and monitors. Any thoughts on making this work?

javeryh · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2012, 04:00:01 pm »

Quote from: pinballjim on February 21, 2012, 03:12:54 pm

Power the monitor and speakers off of your PC power supply.

That sounds... dangerous. To me at least. I am scared of electricity. This is what I want to do... if possible... does this work? I have no idea what I'm doing here...

Unstupid · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2012, 04:14:55 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on February 21, 2012, 04:00:01 pm

Quote from: pinballjim on February 21, 2012, 03:12:54 pm
Power the monitor and speakers off of your PC power supply.

That sounds... dangerous. To me at least. I am scared of electricity. This is what I want to do... if possible... does this work? I have no idea what I'm doing here...

Actually what PBJ suggested is not dangerous... There is plenty of power in a PC supply to run a monitor and speakers... What you drew up on the other hand is dangerous...your ground is not on the correct pin, also on the back of the receptacle you have to wire the hot leads to the switch before you go to the monitor and computer.

javeryh · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2012, 04:26:45 pm »

Quote from: pinballjim on February 21, 2012, 04:03:05 pm

Time to find a new hobby, son.

LOL. I know my lines aren't right but this just shows you my knowledge level (none).

Quote from: Unstupid on February 21, 2012, 04:14:55 pm

Quote from: javeryh on February 21, 2012, 04:00:01 pm
Quote from: pinballjim on February 21, 2012, 03:12:54 pm
Power the monitor and speakers off of your PC power supply.

That sounds... dangerous. To me at least. I am scared of electricity. This is what I want to do... if possible... does this work? I have no idea what I'm doing here...

Actually what PBJ suggested is not dangerous... There is plenty of power in a PC supply to run a monitor and speakers... What you drew up on the other hand is dangerous...your ground is not on the correct pin, also on the back of the receptacle you have to wire the hot leads to the switch before you go to the monitor and computer.

Haha... I knew I was wrong and I didn't even account for the switch.

Can someone draw me a pretty picture or explain how to use the PC power supply to power the monitor and speakers or is this too complicated? I need to figure this out!

Unstupid · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2012, 04:51:23 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on February 21, 2012, 04:26:45 pm

Haha... I knew I was wrong and I didn't even account for the switch.

Can someone draw me a pretty picture or explain how to use the PC power supply to power the monitor and speakers or is this too complicated? I need to figure this out!

javeryh · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2012, 05:09:26 pm »

Quote from: pinballjim on February 21, 2012, 04:33:01 pm

What you need to do is look at your computer supplies for your monitor and your speakers. It'll say on there what kind of voltage they are putting out. Your speakers will probably be 9V and your monitor 12V. Speakers are really flexible and I wouldn't worry an instant about running them at 12V.

Cut off the power supplies from the cords and solder IDE connectors to them. Plug those into your PC power supply. Done.

Is it really that easy? I have a bunch of the IDE power connectors coming out of my computer power supply... these things:

I have the SATA adapters and the standard molox ones with the 4 wires - there are a bunch that are unused. The plug on my speaker (the brick) says 12V so that's good, right? If I wire everything into the power supply, everything will automatically power on once the computer is powered up, right?

Quote from: Unstupid on February 21, 2012, 04:51:23 pm

Quote from: javeryh on February 21, 2012, 04:26:45 pm

Haha... I knew I was wrong and I didn't even account for the switch.

Can someone draw me a pretty picture or explain how to use the PC power supply to power the monitor and speakers or is this too complicated? I need to figure this out!

Awesome! Thanks so much - that makes it crystal clear (I think)!

paigeoliver · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2012, 05:27:44 pm »

Silly question, can't you just plug an extension cord or another strip into the smart strip?

javeryh · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:53:56 am »

Quote from: paigeoliver on February 21, 2012, 05:27:44 pm

Silly question, can't you just plug an extension cord or another strip into the smart strip?

I guess so but I'm not sure why you would want to. My problem is that the area I need to fit all of the electronics is small so a normal smartstrip won't fit. I'm going to try and wire things up like jim and unstupid showed in here and see how that goes. I'll have to post pics of what I've done before firing anything up otherwise I'm sure I'll burn the house down...

koz319 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2012, 12:20:59 pm »

Probably too big, but thought I'd post anyway.

Link

Koz

BobA · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2012, 03:16:59 pm »

This is the one I posted before but now it is mounted in a cab. The 3 prong receptacle plugs right into the prongs of the smartstrip via a round hole in the back door. It was from Walmart for less than $20.

jasonbar · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2012, 03:27:34 pm »

I've been using this one for years, with zero problems: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00924031000P?keyword=craftsman+auto+switch

Thanks,
-Jason

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2012, 05:40:17 pm »

You might want to be carefull about how many things you connect to your PC power supply. LED lights and some small speakers are fine. But you can't just hook up any 12VDC electronics. You'll want to check how much current you'll be using vs. how much the power supply is putting out.

Check the power brick for your speakers and see what kind of current it will put out. Typically whatever the rating is on the power brick, subtract about 5% and thats what your equipment will be using. Or the rating could be found directly on the lead speaker/subwoofer, or wherever the power is connected to.

You might find that you will need more current than what is supplied, you can get a bigger PC power supply, or.
You can also use 12VDC relays to switch your higher loads. Simple small single circuit relays can usually be found fairly easy at autoparts stores.

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2012, 05:59:48 pm »

Here's a simple way to wire your speakers.

javeryh · « **Reply #20 on:** February 23, 2012, 09:28:34 am »

Quote from: Richard_Nixon on February 22, 2012, 05:59:48 pm

Here's a simple way to wire your speakers.

Wow thanks! Is it really that easy? I think I can handle that... So then only thing I need to worry about is power for the monitor now. So here's where I'm at - pics to come this weekend when I actually start hacking things up...

Plug from wall to Switch/Power Receptacle (no splicing/hacking required)
Wire Switch/Power Receptacle to Computer Power Supply (need to cut off plug from power supply that normally goes into the wall and wire to the Switch/Power Receptacle)
Wire molex connector from Computer Power Supply to speaker power cord (as shown above)
[[MONITOR POWER??? - can I use another molex connector?]]
Wire button to exterior panel from computer motherboard to power everything on and off

Assuming I can figure out the monitor, that doesn't seem too bad. Turning the computer on should supply power to everything else, right? My marquee will be powered off of USB from the motherboard.

EightBySix · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2012, 02:54:39 pm »

Saw this today and thought of you

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/cable-reels-extension-leads/extension_leads___adaptors/Masterplug-3-Socket-Intelligent-Energy-Saving-Surge-Protected-Power-Adaptor-MSRGMS3-MS-10549080

guess it would be less compact with uk to us adapters on though

javeryh · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2012, 04:09:30 pm »

Quote from: EightBySix on February 23, 2012, 02:54:39 pm

Saw this today and thought of you

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/cable-reels-extension-leads/extension_leads___adaptors/Masterplug-3-Socket-Intelligent-Energy-Saving-Surge-Protected-Power-Adaptor-MSRGMS3-MS-10549080

guess it would be less compact with uk to us adapters on though

Wow. That thing looks like a perfect solution. Too bad there isn't a US version (that I've seen, anyway). Great find!

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #23 on:** February 23, 2012, 05:19:02 pm »

What kind of monitor are you talking about? A computer monitor? If so, you probably cant power your monitor from the computer power supply. Unless you were stripping it down, but I doubt you plan to get that deep. You will need to split power coming in at your switch/receptacle. Just like you have it drawn in your picture above.

You don't need to have your monitor automatically switch off. Most computer monitors go to sleep after it loses signal from the computer.

javeryh · « **Reply #24 on:** February 23, 2012, 06:24:27 pm »

Quote from: Richard_Nixon on February 23, 2012, 05:19:02 pm

What kind of monitor are you talking about? A computer monitor? If so, you probably cant power your monitor from the computer power supply. Unless you were stripping it down, but I doubt you plan to get that deep. You will need to split power coming in at your switch/receptacle. Just like you have it drawn in your picture above.

You don't need to have your monitor automatically switch off. Most computer monitors go to sleep after it loses signal from the computer.

Yes, I'm talking about a computer monitor. Does this do the trick? This thread is very educational for me!

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #25 on:** February 24, 2012, 12:05:07 am »

Yah that looks right. But just letting you know, when you cut the ends off your cords the wire colors will be different from what you have on your diagram.
Your black should be green. - Ground
Your red should be white. - Neutral
Your yellow should be black. - Hot (power)
These are the same colors that are in your house wiring. (and Red is for 3 way switching and 240v, in house wiring)

You might be able to use a single female quick connect electrical terminal instead of splitting one line into two and having to use marrettes/wire nuts. Look for the yellow size, depending on the cables your cutting, it might fit. You might have to go to an uninsulated connector if you have bigger cable.

Drnick · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2012, 04:41:50 am »

If your monitor and PC use the same (Kettle) style power then just get a Y shaped power splitter.

http://www.internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=81415-Y2M

We use them on all our Dual monitor setups at work. Then you only need 1 socket inside the machine. As for the Speakers rather then chopping up the existing cable you could get a 2.1 or 2.5mm socket and some cable and create your own connection. (Then you can still use the power brick should the need arise).

drventure · « **Reply #27 on:** February 24, 2012, 07:58:36 am »

Quote from: Drnick on February 24, 2012, 04:41:50 am

you could get a 2.1 or 2.5mm socket and some cable and create your own connection. (Then you can still use the power brick should the need arise).

+1 I've done this on several occasions to avoid mangling the brick's cable. Radio shack usually has the necessary connectors

javeryh · « **Reply #28 on:** February 24, 2012, 09:25:56 am »

Quote from: Richard_Nixon on February 24, 2012, 12:05:07 am

Yah that looks right. But just letting you know, when you cut the ends off your cords the wire colors will be different from what you have on your diagram.
Your black should be green. - Ground
Your red should be white. - Neutral
Your yellow should be black. - Hot (power)
These are the same colors that are in your house wiring. (and Red is for 3 way switching and 240v, in house wiring)

You might be able to use a single female quick connect electrical terminal instead of splitting one line into two and having to use marrettes/wire nuts. Look for the yellow size, depending on the cables your cutting, it might fit. You might have to go to an uninsulated connector if you have bigger cable.

Thanks for the info - any chance you could post a picture of the connector? I was planning on cutting the cord, stripping the wires, twisting them together and wrapping in electrical tape. If there is a safer way where there is less chance of leaving a wire exposed I'm all for it.

Quote from: Drnick on February 24, 2012, 04:41:50 am

If your monitor and PC use the same (Kettle) style power then just get a Y shaped power splitter.

http://www.internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=81415-Y2M

We use them on all our Dual monitor setups at work. Then you only need 1 socket inside the machine. As for the Speakers rather then chopping up the existing cable you could get a 2.1 or 2.5mm socket and some cable and create your own connection. (Then you can still use the power brick should the need arise).

Can you post a picture of the 2.1 or 2.5mm socket? I googled it but all I get are headphone looking things. The power cord for the speaker bar doesn't plug in like for example the PSP or something where it plugs into the actual device - the power cord coming from the speaker bar is hardwired in and is not removable but about 12" down the cord it has a connector that runs to the power brick. It's a little weird.

You can kind of see it here:

The green cord goes to the computer for sound. The black connector plugs into the wire that leads to the power brick. This thing:

bkenobi · « **Reply #29 on:** February 24, 2012, 11:07:39 am »

From:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=01M8008&CMP=AFC-GB100000001

I just searched google for "2.1 barrel plug". There's tons of them available and they're cheap. I like AllElectronics.com, but MCM and pretty much anyone else will get you set up.

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #30 on:** February 24, 2012, 05:03:32 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on February 24, 2012, 09:25:56 am

Thanks for the info - any chance you could post a picture of the connector? I was planning on cutting the cord, stripping the wires, twisting them together and wrapping in electrical tape. If there is a safer way where there is less chance of leaving a wire exposed I'm all for it.

DO NOT DO THAT. That is the worst possible way to connect anything. And could cause a fire.

These are wire nuts/marrettes. Put both wires in the hole and twist it tight.

This is a quick connect terminal. Put both wires in the hole and crimp it with wire strippers.

javeryh · « **Reply #31 on:** February 25, 2012, 08:25:51 am »

LOL. Thanks! I guess I don't know the terminology - I've used both of those things before. Should I still wrap everything in electrical tape?

Also, I see some people with really neat wiring that seem to use rubber tubes that grab the wires and insulate them as well as secure the connection. It looks like they might get heated up with a hair dryer or something causing them to shrink to whatever they are on. Any idea what those things are called and can I buy them at Home Depot or something?

Richard_Nixon · « **Reply #32 on:** February 25, 2012, 04:57:44 pm »

You could wrap the marrettes in electrical tape if you wanted to. A wrap or two between the edge of the marrette and the wire. Its not really nescessary.

What you are talking about is heat shrink tubing.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=heat+shrink+tubing&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1

You need to use a heat gun or a lighter. Hair dryers aren't hot enough.
You can also use wire loom or something similar. There are tons of products out there.


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Author Topic: I'm looking for a small "SmartStrip" (or equivalent) - Help! (Read 7371 times)

Nephasth

Nephasth