The main problem with any swappable panel setup is how to lock the panels down rigid enough to be playable. Wiring is secondary, but becomes a problem when you want to mount panels on some moving apparatus. Almost all the ideas for this (ferris wheel, tank treads, sliding racks etc) neglect to take in consideration either of these problems, and so once pen is actually put to paper, these flights of fancy are quickly abandoned.
It sounds like what you want to do is something like this:

I used the shape of my cab because it's fairly typical profile, but the depth is a little more to fit my rotating setup. The depth of my cab is about as long as you'd want a cab to be (36") before it's just plain excessive. Also, my cab is about 6' tall, which is big for a cab, but puts the monitor up higher, which is a consideration here as well.
You can see a lot of problems already, even ignoring the ones listed above. My CP is at a very typical height (about 34-35"), so I put the main CP here at that location. This brings the "ring" you need for rotating the panels up so high that it hits the bottom of the monitor. My monitor is about as high as you'd ever want to mount one, so I doubt you'd want to mount it any higher or your marquee will be nearing the ceiling...
OK, so you could lower the CP a couple inches and still have it somewhat playable (if you stand with your legs spread a bit) but the other CPs are scraping the front and back. You could make the circle a LITTLE bit smaller, but not much since the free-floating CPs need to clear each other too (they stay level after all.) This leaves very little room for a PC or anything else inside the cab. And you can forget about a coin door! Also, wiring becomes very complex since the circle AND each CP has to turn independently. You also need a way to weight the panels so they always face the right way. And there would need to be some doors and panels that open up to let the CPs clear. With all the opening/closing/latching going on, it'd be faster/easier just use regular swappable panels.
Lastly, you have to think about this thing in 3-D. There has to be some clearance on the sides of the CPs for the big lazy suzans that suspend the panels. I would assume at least 1/4" thickness for this. How do you cover up this gap between the cab sides and the CP ends?
Here's a solution: build TWO 1UP cabs!
