trying to wire an arcade button to the power button on my pc

[katuuuz]

Hey guys.

I picked up this dimension 4600c because it was nice and compact for my smaller sized cab. problem is, now that the software end is finished, I'm left wondering if I can even wire a cherry switch to the power button so I can turn the pc on from the outside of the cabinet. Did some looking around at the dell guides to figure out how to do this, when I found out the power button isn't wired to a microswitch at all. Apparently it is somehow connected to a cable that runs to the I/O panel if that makes any sense to anyone else. Because it does not make sense to me.  Here is a link to the I/O removal instructions:

http://support.dell..../sm/iopanel.htm

I haven't had the chance to get a look at how the power button on the pc is actually connected, because i cant get the gol' darn case apart in the front.  urrrgh dell.

any idea if I can in fact do this?
 

P.S. i'm not interested in that sketchy power strip hack... i prefer my apartment to not be on fire.

[severdhed]

that link doesn't work....


as for the power switch, you will need to get access to the actual power switch of the pc, there should be a switch mounted to a small PCB.  you should be able to solder two wires to that pcb where the power switch attaches.

[Donkbaca]

Where do the wires from the power switch attach to the MB?

[SavannahLion]

I'm surprised you found anything at all on Dell's website. They've gotten all crappy and removed all their legacy documents. I hope I archived the repair documents for the Inspirons.

What the OP is probably talking about is the lame daughter board Dell puts in some of their PCs. It's not exactly a direct plug-in to the motherboard.

I'm not sure I understand what you're wanting. The switch should just be a momentary switch. Just cut the wires and wire it up to your cherry on the appropriate connections and you should be fine. There's no point in bypassing the existing daughter board for something like this.

[katuuuz]

I can't seem to get the front panel of the pc off... Nor is there any instructions on how to do so.  Dell dimension 4600c.

[BobA]

I think that daughterboard on the frontpanel attaches to the main panel via a multipin connector sort of like the FP of most motherboard connections except it is probably not documented by Dell and the connector is one piece not separate bits like most front panels.   If you can take the connector off the MB then you can use a multimeter to determine which contacts are closed when the power button is pressed.   You do not have to get the frontpanel off.

[katuuuz]

Ok I have a multimeter and I know of the multi pin connector you are speaking of.  I had it disconnected last night in my efforts to get to the front panel.  It is a ribbon coming from the front panel power button and it plugs into the I/o board which is connected to the system board.  So if I unplug the power ribbon from the I/o, I'm to prod my multimeter into the female connector on this I/o board correct?  Nit the unplugged connector leading to the power button... Or do I have it backwards?  Also, which multimeter prods am I sticking into the holes?  Can I achieve the correct reading with the pc power off or should it be on?  What should I be looking for the multimeter to display?  Sorry, I bought the multimeter when I started collecting real arcade games to test voltage, never used one in this scenario.

[SavannahLion]

OP when copying and pasting your post from other forums, At least make it easier for us to help you by double checking your post for broken links. The page it can be had now. Hopefully.... I accessed the page five minutes ago, but now the DELL site is acting like it's not there anymore. WTF?

I think that daughterboard on the frontpanel attaches to the main panel via a multipin connector sort of like the FP of most motherboard connections except it is probably not documented by Dell and the connector is one piece not separate bits like most front panels.   If you can take the connector off the MB then you can use a multimeter to determine which contacts are closed when the power button is pressed.   You do not have to get the frontpanel off.

The iopanel (If the link is working today) board appears to be a little more involved than that. His best bet is probably the ribbon cable on the right (if the page ever loads for anyone, might be a good idea to zip it and post it here) which appears to attach to the front panel itself rather than the ribbon cable (Is that an IDE cable?!) that connects the daughter board to the motherboard.

If there's IC's on the board then something is getting modified between it and the motherboard.

[katuuuz]

Sorry about the broken link.  So in order to trace the switch leads I'm goin to have to remove the case's front panel, correct?

[SavannahLion]

Sorry about the broken link.  So in order to trace the switch leads I'm goin to have to remove the case's front panel, correct?

No, I thought about it some and modified my original post. You might be able to do it by checking the ribbon cable that runs from the iopanel to the front panel. I think it's a ribbon cable. Kind of hard to tell if I can't double check when DELL keeps taking it down.

[katuuuz]

When I get home tonight I'll attach the image of the io panel to this thread.  Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this.  I also would like to thank you for your interest in helping me.

[garnerb350]

Katuuuz... when you get home place the tower in your lap with the front facing your right... pop open the case and underneath the hard drive you will see 6 wires ( might be bundled) those are the wires that are for your power & 2 led lights ( system busy, etc) ... Follow them to your motherboard...they should connect to a set of pins....i think around the middle/top right ( im trying to remember this )  The second set of pins from the top (green & brown wire???) should be the ones for power...

My mame cab uses a 4600 and what i did was take a regular pushbutton and wired it to an old 2 pin motherboard connector wire... like one here



Now you might have more wires @ the bottom (those are for the front usb hub) but you can figure out what goes to what ... 4600 was the first PC i started tinkering with and i was amazed at how simple it was when you spend time messing with it...

Hope this doesnt confuse you more...Currently im away from my cab and im going off memory from 2 years ago...

[BobA]

The 4600c is a compact case and does not have the same connections as the tower.

[katuuuz]

Yeah as boba stated, my 4600c guts are different from your 4600's.  Thanks for the insight though.  I should have researched the 4600c before purchase.  I'm almost ready to say screw it and buy a micro atx board.  I really don't want to spend the $ but dells are... Well, they are dells.

I just found this article about how the power button on this model is connected.  Maybe one of you understand what it is that I can do:

http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/17667049.aspx

[BobA]

Don't give up yet.

As I said previously  If you can take the connector off the MB then you can use a multimeter to determine which contacts are closed when the power button is pressed.   You do not have to get the front panel off.

If it is a ribbon cable you need a bit of solid wire to put in the various holes in the connector of the ribbon cable.  Put one bit in pin 1 and move the other to all the other pins.  If you measure continuity while pushing the on button you will find the proper pair.   If pin 1 does not work try pin 2 etc etc etc.   Takes a lot of checking but when you find the right pair you will know where to connect your power button.

[Donkbaca]

If I remember right, the computer should turn on when you short two pins that have 5v.  I think that is what you are looking for when you use your multimeter.  I am not sure though.  I remember seeing posts about dell power buttons before when I was looking at how to wire my IBM power button.  IBMs are weird too because they have 4 pairs of wires going to the momentary switch instead of the normal 2, anyhow, I think I came across posts for the dell daughterboard. Have you tried to google it?

[katuuuz]

Yeah, I came up with that above article.  Click and scroll down and it shows a diagram of the I/o board or "daughter" board.

[Donkbaca]

found this:

However, Asus (and other mboard makers that supply mboards to brand name system builders - e.g. HP, Compaq, Dell, Gateway, and most other brand name system builders DO NOT make the mboards themselves) does NOT normally change which pins are for what on that header, or on other headers on the mboard, even if it is an OEM only mboard.
If you want to know which pins are for what on any header on the mboard, if you download and look at the manual for any Asus mboard of a similar age, the pinout assignments are usually identical to those on OEM only mboards.
In this case, look at amboard manual for a socket 478 mboard, although it probably doesn't matter which socket it uses as long as it was made about the same time (or the pinouts may not have changed over time in any case).

and this:
The ATX specification fixed the worst problems of the AT power supply. It took the power switch out of the mains side, so that safety and reliability improved dramatically. It made the power supply switchable from the DC side, so that software shutdown was now possible. This had the side effect of allowing many new switch styles, since the switch no longer had to carry the full current load of the PC, it could be a mini or sub-mini pushbutton, and could be easily located just about anywhere on the case.

So lets look a little closer at how the PC is powered on. The PSU is powered from the mains supply. Some PSUs have their own shutoff switch, which allows interrupting the mains supply for whatever reason. As long as the PSU is powered from the mains, it is also providing your motherboard with a small amount of power from a connector known as the +5VSB (pin 9 of the motherboard connector, connected to a purple wire), or five volt standby. Even though your system is powered down, you are still drawing a small amount of current from this. The circuits that control the power switch are among the things using that power. When you press the power button, you momentarily close a set of contacts. The motherboard circuity reacts to that signal by sending a signal to the PSU. The signal is called the PS_ON# (pin 16 of the motherboard connector, connected to a green wire), and the setting of a LOW voltage (0V) on this connector tells your PSU to deliver full power to your system. Many of you are probably familiar with the trick of “hot-wiring” a PSU by connecting a pin with a black wire to the one with the green wire. In doing this you are forcing 0V on PS_ON#, which starts the power supply. When your computer does this, the circuit holding that pin low is controlled by software, so this is how a soft shutdown works (as well as things like wake-on-modem or wake-on-LAN).

When the PSU is delivering full system power, it’s also required to hold a HIGH (+5V) signal on a connector called PWR_OK (pin 8 of the motherboard connector, connected to a grey wire), which signals to the system that voltages are within tolerances dictated by the specification. These three signals, +5VSB, PS_ON#, and PWR_OK, make up the “housekeeping” connections to your PSU. They allow the management of power by the system, and together solve the problems with the AT spec.

[garnerb350]

       Dang...my bad...I guess I didnt see the "c"... Now you got me wanting to see the compact version... Good luck...

[katuuuz]

Out to dinner, post pics when I get home

[katuuuz]

Ok fellas, things seem to be leaning my way for once.  Got home to see my Sanwa buttons have arrived (christ, these guys are small), and upon cracking open the 4600c and looking a bit closer with the knowledge learned by you today, I think I see what I've been trying to see.  Attatched is a pic of the 4600c slim next to a dead dimension I pulled from the graveyard for garner to see. 

Also attached is a pretty big snap of the I/O board.  The disconnected ribbon has the label "control panel" printed on the pcb.  The larger one behind it that is still plugged in is labeled "front panel."  The smaller one runs up the inside front of the case, and disappears into the unaccessible front of the case and more than likely attaches to the leds, power button, and or usbs.  The larger ribbon labeled "front panel" has the USB logo stamped on the ribbon itself, and connects to the mother board. 

Hopefully I've included enough info for someone to explain to me what I have to do to wire one of these Sanwa buttons up for booting!

[Donkbaca]

Where does the control panel wire connect to the mobo?

[SavannahLion]

@ Donkbaca

That information is all well and good but you're overlooking one important fact.

Regardless of the OEM of the board, they will most certainly do whatever the VARs specify. Anybody who tried to hack or reuse a Compaq power supply can attest to this. Every single VAR has at least one bastardized PC in their line up that has a critical component that isn't 100% compatible with the ATX specification.

That is the case here.

[katuuuz]

??

Looks like I'm going with the boot upon dc recovery option in my bios then.  Thanks everyone for your help.

[Donkbaca]

If you are going to give up on the power button idea, what about wake-on/LAN?

[katuuuz]

If you are going to give up on the power button idea, what about wake-on/LAN?

Not exactly sure what you mean?

[Donkbaca]

Here are my thoughts...

1) you just need to figure out which two wires that connect to the control panel pins have your power on signal.  Its a +5v signal.  you short that with a ground and if the whole thing fires up you have found it.  I don't know if randomly shorting these pins for a moment would hurt your computer.I imagine those pins go to the power button, the HD LED, the Power LED and probably the Speaker. The two wires you want to short are a 5v and a gorund that are right next to each other.  I don't think it would hurt anything,  and heck if you are just going to ditch the whole thing anyway, then i think its worth a shot.

2) if you boot into your bios, there may be a wake-on-lan option.  I was thinking about doing this for my cab.  If your cab is hard wired into your lan, you can remotely boot up the computer from another computer.  If you google "wake-on-lan" you can find a discussion about it.  I was thinking about setting my computer to wake on LAN, and then using an iphone app to turn the whole thing on from my phone.  I was going to plug my computer into a smart strip, and then I would be able to turn everything on from my phone.  I thought that would be cool. I didn't go through with it because I couldn't figure out how to make the cab sleep on LAN, and I didn't want to keep it on all the time, or shutdown my computer from my front end because I didn't want people messing with the front end accidently shut down the cab.  But if those aren't concerns of yours, its an option.

[DillonFoulds]

Put it all together, but leave the case open. Unplug a header, plug in power, and push the power button. If the computer still turns on, then you got the wrong header so repeat. If it doesn't, then you've got the right header.

Once you've found the right header, turn off the computer, and grab a small flat head screwdriver and just start jumpering pins, until your computer turns on. The pins only need to be jumpered for a second to initiate the process. Narrow it down to a couple pins and use those two, wired to a push button to turn on your PC.

It sounds sketchy, but when a computer's turned off, you can't really do any harm to anything by jumpering the wrong pins, and if you turn it on, there's not really much voltage that can harm anything...

Personally, I just used my DMM and found the power button...

[BobA]

Much safer to check the unplugged ribbon cable with a VOM and see which wires have continuity when the power button is pushed.  That way nothing is shorted and everything will work afterwards.   Takes longer though.

[katuuuz]

Personally, I just used my DMM and found the power button...

Ok I have a dmm.  Could you please be mote specific on what I'm to do with it?  I understand what you are saying but don't understand terms like "jumpering" etc.  What do I set the dmm to?  Turn the pc on and start sticking the dmm's prongs in the holes and look for 5v?  I'm lost.

[DillonFoulds]

If your DMM has a mode that looks like o))  (a speaker kinda thing) then it's a continuity test, and whenever the probes are touching, or both on a path that makes them connect, the DMM will beep.

This is probably one of my favourite tools of my DMM, to be honest.

So put one end on the power button wire, with the computer unplugged. Now you can probe around with the other end along any pins on that header until you hear a beep. Easy Peasy!

The only caveat is that you might end up finding the wrong end of the button (the ground) in which case you'll hear a lot of beeps, so probe a different leg on the power button and try again.

[RandyT]

 

This is a simple project...or at least it sounds like it should be.

You have to remove the switch board.  I have seen at least one reference stating that there is a small microswitch on that I/O board that is the power button.

Look at that switch carefully.  Is it a "through hole" type switch?  If so, it's a simple matter to solder another set of wires in parallel with that switch, using the points where the present switch's terminals protrude through and are soldered to the board.  If it's a surface mount switch, it's a little trickier, but still possible.

I don't quite know how screwing around with a ribbon cable is going to help, unless you try to strip one wire out of it, which is not a simple approach.  You could try to solder to the pins of the connector, but if the switch is there, you can solder directly to it without the hunting.

Post a large photo of the front, and back of the I/O board and we'll know for sure the best approach.

RandyT

[katuuuz]

Ok sounds good guys.  I'll extract the i/o panel when I get home and take some pics.  Talk to you guys then.

[SavannahLion]

This is a simple project...or at least it sounds like it should be.

You have to remove the switch board.  I have seen at least one reference stating that there is a small microswitch on that I/O board that is the power button.

Look at that switch carefully.  Is it a "through hole" type switch?  If so, it's a simple matter to solder another set of wires in parallel with that switch, using the points where the present switch's terminals protrude through and are soldered to the board.  If it's a surface mount switch, it's a little trickier, but still possible.

I don't quite know how screwing around with a ribbon cable is going to help, unless you try to strip one wire out of it, which is not a simple approach.  You could try to solder to the pins of the connector, but if the switch is there, you can solder directly to it without the hunting.

Post a large photo of the front, and back of the I/O board and we'll know for sure the best approach.

RandyT

+1
Right now most of us are guessing as to the iopanel design it really isn't that difficultp

[katuuuz]

Ok.  I think I'm on to something with my multimeter.  I unplugged the small ribbon labeled "control panel," plugged in the PC, and was unable to power on with the dell power button.  So, I guess now I know that that small ribbon has something to do with the turning on of the computer.  Upon learning this, I took out my DMM and set it to conducter mode, or whatever (speaker mode lol) and started prodding the pins of this "control panel" connection on the I/O board itself.  I was able to achieve the beeping noise by touching the 2 pins that are aligned in red pencil in the attached photo... also the screen on my DMM displayed "SHRT".  (Short?).  

Upon doing this, I thought I was in like flint, so I went rummiging through my arcade tacklebox only to find a coin switch.  I ghetto rigged some wire to the connections on the coin switch, and then ghetto rigged the opposite ends to the pins highlighted.  I clicked the twine on the coinswitch which resulted in nothing.  I swapped the wires pin-side and tried again with no luck.  

Below is a picture of the face of the daughter board, with the 2 pins I got the "SHRT" reading on connected in red pencil.  Also is the back-side of the daughter board upon request.  Lastly, the third picture is a cord that may be it too.  Maybe I am wrong in being wishful, but those exposed wires look like the power supply wires.  They go from the daughter board to the motherboard and on the motherboard are labeled "Front Audio Mic USB2."  

[DillonFoulds]

If you think those are the pins, jumper them with a screw driver, if the PC turns on then that's them, if not, pick again...

[katuuuz]

Right now most of us are guessing as to the iopanel design it really isn't that difficultp

I'm finding it difficult, although I am inexperienced in this sort of thing.

[katuuuz]

If you think those are the pins, jumper them with a screw driver, if the PC turns on then that's them, if not, pick again...

not excatly sure what you mean by "jumper."  I'm that inexperienced.

[SavannahLion]

Don't use the DMM on the board. Use the DMM on the cable, you'll probably need a short piece of wire to get in there. Hold the switch down and do the test with the DMM.

[BobA]

+1 for SavannahLion

Do not short the Motherboard. Do all your work on the daughter board ribbon cable.   If you short the MB there is a USB connector and audio in the mix from the daughterboard and you could take out your USB or audio.  Remember the short only appears when you push your power button.

[katuuuz]

Ok, I stuck a piece of wire into both the holes ithat correspond with the pins outlined in red above.  (stuck the wires in the cable).  plugged my machine in, and upon touching the protruding wires with my DMM i got a shrt reading.  (without pressing the power button).  I'll go back and test each pair in case what i just explained is not what i'm looking for.

[katuuuz]

GOT IT!

Wow that was awesome.  I found the two holes in the cable that sound off when I hit the power button.  My final question to all of you wonderful people is how am I supposed to wire out of that and plug it back in to the daughter board?  

[Donkbaca]

how does the power button interface with the daughter board?

[Donkbaca]

the two wires you have coming out of the ribbon cable.  If you touch the ends together, does the computer turn on?

[Donkbaca]

IF you touch the ends of the wires (short them) and the computer turns on, then you have found your power switch wires.  You can then just splice two wires into the ribbon and connect those wires to a microswitch.

[BobA]

The wires are on a ribbon cable attached to the front panel daughter board.  He needs a way to connect a wire across the 2 points in the ribbon cable when he reattaches it. 

The two points in the ribbon cable now tell you what pins need to be shorted when the cable is plugged in.   You can either strip the cable to get at the wires to attach your wires or you can trace the 2 points back to the daughter board to see if there are pads where you can connect your wires or you could solder to the power switch on the daughter board. Another way is to use a wirewrap tool to put some kynar wire around the pins so you have room to plug the ribbon cable back in.   

If you do not need the plugins on the daughter board you can simply leave it out of the circuit.   Use a ribbon cable with the same connector or the one you are testing and pry the back off of the connector. This will expose all the wires and your you can get at the exact wires that need to be shorted to turn on your PC.

[katuuuz]

Bob, thank you that was a useful post i will be bookmarking for when I get there.  Turns out with my wires sticking out of the alleged power holes, touching them together doesn't turn the pc on.  i tried a bunch of different hole configurations and can't get it to power on by touching the wire ends together.  also upon further investigation, i was able to get the dmm to sound on another configuration or two.  it's not possible for there to be more than 2 inputs for power-on is it? 

Also, does everything have to be connected to power on?  or if i did get the right hole combination would it turn on by touching the wires without the rest of the daugter board connected?

this is frustrating.

[katuuuz]

Further prodding has me at this assumption:

I'm pretty sure the top right-most hole is the ground.  (green line in pic)Why do I think this?  Because when i have the green wire in, connecting my second wire to any other color slot pictured, DMM reads "short" when i press in the dell power button.  if i were to put the green where blue, yellow, or red is, the DMM shorts without pressing the power button.  I don't know why 3 seperate combinations  (green-blue, green-red, green-yellow) short the DMM when jumpered and the power button is pushed. 

do i have to resort on powering the arcade up on dc recovery, or wil i still be able to wire a button somehow?

Edit: I'm about to give up for the night and just figured.. because this connector I'm poking wires in isn't plugged into the I/O board, it's not connected to the power source either.  So even if I touched the wires together in the proper hole configuration, the pc wouldn't boot until the connector is back in place on the I/O.  So i have to determine which of the 3 "short-on-power button" configurations is the correct one a different way...  this sucks. 

[RandyT]

I know you've gone well past this point, but I urge you to look at the other board in that machine.  There should be another board with the power switch on it.   It should be a normal, simple tactile type switch, very similar in function to the switch you want to connect to it. 

IMHO, that's where you should be working.  If you can get that one out, take photos of it.

[katuuuz]

I know you've gone well past this point, but I urge you to look at the other board in that machine.  There should be another board with the power switch on it.   It should be a normal, simple tactile type switch, very similar in function to the switch you want to connect to it. 

IMHO, that's where you should be working.  If you can get that one out, take photos of it.

http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/17667049.aspx

read the first 4 posts.  unless this guys is as clueless as me, i'm not sure there is a microswitch.  i pray you are right though.  not sure how to get this damn front panel off either.

[RandyT]

read the first 4 posts.  unless this guys is as clueless as me...

Yeah, not much coherency going in that one.

See the attached.  Looks like another board up there to me.  It's highly likely that's where the other end of that cable leads.

[katuuuz]

See the attached.  Looks like another board up there to me.  It's highly likely that's where the other end of that cable leads.

You're exactly right.  As stated before, the other end of the "control panel" ribbon runs up the front and goes up and behind the metal wall blocking me from accessing it.  I've searched the net rampid looking for a guide to gain access to this portion of the case, but have come up with nothing but that useless article about the alleged magic power on.  there has to be a way to get in there without a damn hacksaw doesn't there?

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Yet another reason not to buy a dell (:

[katuuuz]

Yet another reason not to buy a dell (:

I got it cheap, and trust me, after all of this if i have to cut this thing's ---smurfin---' face off with a dremel, i will.

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

DO IT!

[RandyT]

You're exactly right.  As stated before, the other end of the "control panel" ribbon runs up the front and goes up and behind the metal wall blocking me from accessing it.  I've searched the net rampid looking for a guide to gain access to this portion of the case, but have come up with nothing but that useless article about the alleged magic power on.  there has to be a way to get in there without a damn hacksaw doesn't there?

It went on.  It must come off

Look for screwheads, or plastic latches from the inside of the case. If you don't see screws (or pop rivets), it's probably just snapped together.  If it's riveted, you can drill them out, but it won't go back together easily.  If it's snapped, carefully poke around the edges with a thin screwdriver and see if you make any headway.

If you really get frustrated, you can try the old "jumper the power on line on the power supply connector" trick.  Pin 14 on the power supply connector is a green wire that is labeled "PS ON" in this diagram.  Usually, when that green wire is grounded to one of the adjacent black wires, the system powers up.  If yours does this without any issues, you could use any on/off SPST non-momentary switch and bypass the front panel altogether.

[katuuuz]

Look for screwheads, or plastic latches from the inside of the case. If you don't see screws (or pop rivets), it's probably just snapped together.  If it's riveted, you can drill them out, but it won't go back together easily.  If it's snapped, carefully poke around the edges with a thin screwdriver and see if you make any headway.

If you really get frustrated, you can try the old "jumper the power on line on the power supply connector" trick.  Pin 14 on the power supply connector is a green wire that is labeled "PS ON" in this diagram.  Usually, when that green wire is grounded to one of the adjacent black wires, the system powers up.  If yours does this without any issues, you could use any on/off SPST non-momentary switch and bypass the front panel altogether.

You mean like a throw switch?  I would definitely fallback on that idea.  My double dragon cabinet has one mounted on top of it.  How risky of an route is that?  Is it bad for the PS?  I've seen tons of PS supply issues on this specific model. 

I also don't want to give up on this mystery board just yet.  I've got a personal vendetta now.  I had already looked for screws, all I came up with was the screw holding the pivital case sides together which would merely let me seperate the two.  I do see rivits, and they are in some weirdly angled places.  Why does this mystery board have to be restricted from the OP like this?

[BobA]

Careful prying and snapping of plastic front panel parts will probably get you access to the back of the front panel.  From what I have seen of your daughter board it connects to both the front panel and your motherboard.  Underneath that plastic that you push to turn on the computer has to be a simple switch of some sort.  It is alot easier to solder to a switch or get at its connectors than cutting into the ribbon cable so get out the heavy duty snippers and maybe even a hacksaw blade to work on the plastic.   A dremel would be great now.

[katuuuz]

To avoid a bloody mess, I think I'm going to try my hand at a hammer and chisel after work tonight.  Won't be in until about 7pm EST, and hopefully soon after I will have a picture of a faceless 4600c for all to see.

[katuuuz]

Dudes, I have conquered. 

Wish I had the sense to realize there had to be a switch, I could have saved a few nights...

Anyway, upon further inspection of the plastic casing, I noticed (2) 10x Torx screws attatching the metal casing to the outer plastic shell.  Ripped out my 10x Torx and removed them.  For revenge purposes, I Hulk Hoganed the plastic shell off, snapping about 3 plastic clips that, too, were securing the outer shell to the metal box.  So pic 1 is what my PC looks like now.  I'm hoping I can just put it in the cabinet as is, gonna need some feedback on that.

Anyhow, I easily unscrewed the single philips head attatching the power switch/led board to the front of the metal casing.  As you can see in pic 2, the little red microswitch is indeed attached to this tiny board (Randy, be sure to drink to that). 

Pic 3 is the underside of the board, 4 pins highlighted in red that are under the switch.  I'm pretty sure I'll be soldering to this back side of the little board, but I would feel comfortable if someone could clarify that.  (Also, I'm pretty sure I need to only solder 2 wires, so my guess is I'll need my DMM for finding out which of these 4 pins to solder to?) 

Anyway, thanks for your help gentlemen.  If you are drinking, sip your beers as you look at these photos and just know that someone Dell didn't want accesing this board effing did.  And I broke their stupid clips in doing so.

[RandyT]

Dudes, I have conquered.

Congrats

(Also, I'm pretty sure I need to only solder 2 wires, so my guess is I'll need my DMM for finding out which of these 4 pins to solder to?)  

Nahh, see how the points on the left two pins are connected and the two pins on the right are also connected?  Well, the idea of a switch is to connect two of it's terminals together at one point or another, and the only combination that is left is any of the left being connected to any on the right.  So one wire from your momentary switch goes to either pin on the left and one goes to either pin on the right.  Make sure you get a good solder joint, but don't overheat the pins.  You don't want to melt the switch in case you still want to use it later.

RandyT

[katuuuz]

Nahh, see how the points on the left two pins are connected and the two pins on the right are also connected?  Well, the idea of a switch is to connect two of it's terminals together at one point or another, and the only combination that is left is any of the left being connected to any on the right.  So one wire from your momentary switch goes to either pin on the left and one goes to either pin on the right.  Make sure you get a good solder joint, but don't overheat the pins.  You don't want to melt the switch in case you still want to use it later.

RandyT

Cool.  I have to pick up some wire tomorrow, so I can't try just yet.  I drew wires on that pic just to verify I follow what you just said...

[DillonFoulds]

Errr... nope. See that green line between them? it means your connection would be fruitless.

Put on lead to that pair, and the other lead to the other pair.

[katuuuz]

Errr... nope. See that green line between them? it means your connection would be fruitless.

Put on lead to that pair, and the other lead to the other pair.

ok so move the bottom wire to the top left pin then, correct?

[RandyT]

ok so move the bottom wire to the top left pin then, correct?

Yes.  Like I wrote above, Left and Right.

(Jeez, I just re-read what I wrote......I should have just posted the photo I had half-done.  It would have been a lot clearer.  )

[Donkbaca]

Congrats!
+1 for Hulk Hogan-ing anything!

[katuuuz]

Congrats!
+1 for Hulk Hogan-ing anything!

Thanks brotherrr

[Hituro]

wow... you guys are making this out to be more complicated than it has to be.. with multimeters and all this soldering and stuff.  It's simple.  I did it to my cabinet

That wire connector someone posted a pick of.  That connects to the motherboard.  And the two wires then connect to the PC button.  What I did was took an old computer case, pulled the front out.  And pulled the button out.  I then took the wires, cut them from the actual button, and rewired them to a happ button switch.  Simple as connecting the ground and then then connecting the other wire to the prong that is triggered by the button press.  Once that's done and you plug the computer in.  Press the button and the thing should kick on   It's just a button.  It's just connecting it to a different button :p  All the button does is bridge the connection.  Heck if you just soldered the two wires together you wouldn't need a button.  When you plug it in the wall it'll turn on automatically.  But I like having a button

[RandyT]

wow... you guys are making this out to be more complicated than it has to be.. with multimeters and all this soldering and stuff.  It's simple.

Normally it is.  But there was no single wire pair going to a button in this case.  It was a ribbon cable with other functions on it as well.  The actual board on the other end where the switch is located was also buried under the plastics.  Did you read the thread?

[katuuuz]

+1 Randy

[severdhed]

  Did you read the thread?

apparently not

[katuuuz]

Mission accomplished.  Although my soldering skills could definitely use some work, I have successfully powered my pc up with an arcade button.  I can't re-screw the little power board back to the case without snapping the wires free of the soldered connection, so I'll just let the board stay suspended by the ribbon connecting it inside to the I/O panel.

I started with solid 18 gauge wire, which IMO isn't flexible enough.  I then used what I believe to be 18 gauge stranded wire (had some extra hanging around from 06) and there was a significantly more amount of bend to the wires.

I just hope the case fits in my cabinet which was designed around the case itself.  It is going to be a tight squeeze with that power panel hanging out, but I'm confident I'll find a way to jam it in there. 

Tomorrow I will assemble my MDF panels and hope to end the day with a functioning arcade.  of course I still have to order a small coin door and t-molding, but I should be able to play and only have cosmetic details left.  Will create a build blog for anyone interested.

Many thanks to the fine people of this thread, Randy in particular, for helping me crack the case (literally) of the dimension 4600c power switch.  My advice to anyone in the the market for an arcade powered by this particular machine: just opt for the big 4600.

[Hituro]

No, I did read the thread.  Maybe not every freaking post, because I thought it was ridiculous.  Like I said.  Why make this more complicated than it has to be.  You just buy one of these!

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Motherboard-Cable-Switch-Button/dp/B00345WH4A  I mean wow it's $4!  All that ribbon cable is, is a combination of the power switch, reset switch, grounds, PC Speaker etc.  All you need is that power switch.  That's all I was stating.  It doesn't have to be rocket science.

[katuuuz]

No, I did read the thread.  Maybe not every freaking post, because I thought it was ridiculous.  Like I said.  Why make this more complicated than it has to be.  You just buy one of these!

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Motherboard-Cable-Switch-Button/dp/B00345WH4A  I mean wow it's $4!  All that ribbon cable is, is a combination of the power switch, reset switch, grounds, PC Speaker etc.  All you need is that power switch.  That's all I was stating.  It doesn't have to be rocket science.

Relax hi-terdo.

[RandyT]

No, I did read the thread.  Maybe not every freaking post, because I thought it was ridiculous.  Like I said.  Why make this more complicated than it has to be.  You just buy one of these!

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Motherboard-Cable-Switch-Button/dp/B00345WH4A  I mean wow it's $4!  All that ribbon cable is, is a combination of the power switch, reset switch, grounds, PC Speaker etc.  All you need is that power switch.  That's all I was stating.  It doesn't have to be rocket science.

No, but this scenario is different than what you think it is, and reading the rest of the posts (and clicking on some links) would probably have illustrated that.  The OP is dealing with an oddball mini-pc, and the part you linked to is worthless here.  But perhaps someone else with a standard PC motherboard, wishing to do the same, will benefit from it.

I agree that it's not "rocket science" in a normal situation, but this one isn't normal.

[Silverwind]

I started reading the thread.. and reading about your frustration and determination made me want to find out the ending!  Nice work.

Like your avatar, BTW!

[Donkbaca]

To sum it up so you don't have to read every post:
Frustration
Rocket science
Hulk Hoagnizing
Randy FTW

[katuuuz]

To sum it up so you don't have to read every post:
Frustration
Rocket science
Hulk Hoagnizing
Randy FTW

If I wasn't on my iPhone I would make that my signature.

@silver: blondes definitely have more fun.

[Hituro]

No, but this scenario is different than what you think it is, and reading the rest of the posts (and clicking on some links) would probably have illustrated that.  The OP is dealing with an oddball mini-pc, and the part you linked to is worthless here.  But perhaps someone else with a standard PC motherboard, wishing to do the same, will benefit from it.

I agree that it's not "rocket science" in a normal situation, but this one isn't normal.

OK, so just to appease you I went and read every post in this thread.  I clicked the links, I read about hulk-hoganing to get to the actual switch.  And even read my posts and maybe they seemed harsh.  But I still think you are wrong.  I do not think soldering needed to be done to complete this task.  Granted it's already been done, so congrats on getting it to work.  I'm just saying it could have been done in a much more simple, and less frustrating way.  And here's how.

So judging by the photos posted, there is a daughter board that is connected via an IDE cable, an audio cable that attaches to the audio pins on the motherboard and it also looks like that same cable with the audio has some type of power connector as well, like a molex, but it's a 2 in 1.  Not sure, hard to tell from the photo, but just taking a guess based on the look of the wires.  Also on the daughter board, is a set of pins labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  These pins then have a ribbon cable that is composed of wires used for the power switch, reset switch, etc, that run to a control pannel that contains the switch which when connected, will power on the PC when pressed.  So to simplify:

2 Cables connect Daughter Board to Motherboard and 1 Cable connects Daughterboard to a control panel.    Correct?

Now, all that I/O panel is.  Is a glorified switch spread out on a circuit board.  I realize this is a mini-pc, and thus components are spread out and compartmentalized.  However, the only things that need to be focused on, are those pins for the "CNTRL_PANEL" on the daughter board.  The control panel is not required for booting up the PC in this project.  There is no power cable that runs to the control panel board, it's just the ribbon cable.  All this cable is doing, is spreading the contact points to the button, so that when the button is pressed it bridges the connection.  The ribbon cable isn't necessary either.

So my suggested solution.  That part I mentioned earlier.  It will fit on two prongs on that connector labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  Even though it's on a daughter board, most full size boards have those included on them, and the pin connectors look exactly the same.  Once that is connected, if you push the micro switch on the end, it will do the exact same thing as soldering wires from the control panel to a separate micro switch.  Unless the main power from the power supply doesn't run into the motherboard and runs somewhere else, which I've never seen but anything is possible, then it should have no problem working.  You haven't tried my suggestion, but I'm pretty sure it would work.  Heck, if I had that same PC I'd be willing to try it.  I'm almost even tempted to buy that same model just to test it out.  I'm not trying to step on toes, I just think there is a more efficient and easier approach to accomplishing this.

[katuuuz]

OK, so just to appease you I went and read every post in this thread.  I clicked the links, I read about hulk-hoganing to get to the actual switch.  And even read my posts and maybe they seemed harsh.  But I still think you are wrong.  I do not think soldering needed to be done to complete this task.  Granted it's already been done, so congrats on getting it to work.  I'm just saying it could have been done in a much more simple, and less frustrating way.  And here's how.

So judging by the photos posted, there is a daughter board that is connected via an IDE cable, an audio cable that attaches to the audio pins on the motherboard and it also looks like that same cable with the audio has some type of power connector as well, like a molex, but it's a 2 in 1.  Not sure, hard to tell from the photo, but just taking a guess based on the look of the wires.  Also on the daughter board, is a set of pins labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  These pins then have a ribbon cable that is composed of wires used for the power switch, reset switch, etc, that run to a control pannel that contains the switch which when connected, will power on the PC when pressed.  So to simplify:

2 Cables connect Daughter Board to Motherboard and 1 Cable connects Daughterboard to a control panel.    Correct?

Now, all that I/O panel is.  Is a glorified switch spread out on a circuit board.  I realize this is a mini-pc, and thus components are spread out and compartmentalized.  However, the only things that need to be focused on, are those pins for the "CNTRL_PANEL" on the daughter board.  The control panel is not required for booting up the PC in this project.  There is no power cable that runs to the control panel board, it's just the ribbon cable.  All this cable is doing, is spreading the contact points to the button, so that when the button is pressed it bridges the connection.  The ribbon cable isn't necessary either.

So my suggested solution.  That part I mentioned earlier.  It will fit on two prongs on that connector labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  Even though it's on a daughter board, most full size boards have those included on them, and the pin connectors look exactly the same.  Once that is connected, if you push the micro switch on the end, it will do the exact same thing as soldering wires from the control panel to a separate micro switch.  Unless the main power from the power supply doesn't run into the motherboard and runs somewhere else, which I've never seen but anything is possible, then it should have no problem working.  You haven't tried my suggestion, but I'm pretty sure it would work.  Heck, if I had that same PC I'd be willing to try it.  I'm almost even tempted to buy that same model just to test it out.  I'm not trying to step on toes, I just think there is a more efficient and easier approach to accomplishing this.

First, thanks Hituro for not being sarcastic in this post, it was much easier to take seriously.  I understand what you are saying, and thought the same before gaining access to the board in front. 

In that photo of the ribbon with the green, blue, red, and yellow lines drawn on it... each of those combinations shorted my multimeter.  Also, i stuck wire in the holes (tried all 3 combos) and touched the wires together which should have booted the pc but didn't.  i think it would have worked if i spliced into the ribbon and found the right pair while that ribbon header was plugged into the IO panel which would have enabled power to be connected to the board as well.

IMO it was easier to solder to the 2 pins on the control board, instead of tearing up the ribbon and possibly ruining it in the process.  I would have taken this risk if only one pair of holes in the ribbon shorted my DMM, but there was 3 different combinations which did so while pressing the power button.  So there was no way for me to tell which 2 actually would power the pc without ripping the ribbon to shreds and making more of a mess than i did with the solder.

Anyway, got it working, and I'm putting it to rest.  If I was to come across another 4600c, (I'd have to receive it for free for that to happen) I would go the solder route again.

[Donkbaca]

Yup as long as its working, why mess with it?  Its done, time for high fives and beer.

[RandyT]

So my suggested solution.  That part I mentioned earlier.  It will fit on two prongs on that connector labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  Even though it's on a daughter board, most full size boards have those included on them, and the pin connectors look exactly the same.  Once that is connected, if you push the micro switch on the end, it will do the exact same thing as soldering wires from the control panel to a separate micro switch.  Unless the main power from the power supply doesn't run into the motherboard and runs somewhere else, which I've never seen but anything is possible, then it should have no problem working.  You haven't tried my suggestion, but I'm pretty sure it would work.  Heck, if I had that same PC I'd be willing to try it.  I'm almost even tempted to buy that same model just to test it out.  I'm not trying to step on toes, I just think there is a more efficient and easier approach to accomplishing this.

The pins which do what you are writing about are not directly across from each other.  So to do what you are suggesting, one would need a wire with two single, but separate, connectors.  And even after you come up with that uncommon configuration, you still lose the function of the power led and anything else which might be on that board.

Soldering in parallel to the existing switch is the easiest solution here, and requires no specialized parts.

[DillonFoulds]

Out of curiosity, I had a few very similar dell machines here. The pins in question on the motherboard on the 3 versions i checked all line up adjacently, but the header has a plastic bracket, that standard front panel connectors wouldn't fit on, either.

[DaOld Man]

I needed two separate plugs once. I took one of the two pronged plugs and cut it right down the middle. I cant remember what I used to cut it, but I think it was my pocket knife with a well placed hammer behind it.
Worked pretty good, just like separating Siamese twins.

I wouldnt recommend anyone doing this, but if you do, place a piece of scrap wood under the plug and wear safety glasses, the knife blade could come apart and fly into your eyes.

The pins which do what you are writing about are not directly across from each other.  So to do what you are suggesting, one would need a wire with two single, but separate, connectors.  And even after you come up with that uncommon configuration, you still lose the function of the power led and anything else which might be on that board.

Soldering in parallel to the existing switch is the easiest solution here, and requires no specialized parts.

[Hituro]

I wouldnt recommend anyone doing this, but if you do, place a piece of scrap wood under the plug and wear safety glasses, the knife blade could come apart and fly into your eyes.

lol omg, yes please, no one wants a knife in their eyes!

[Hituro]

So my suggested solution.  That part I mentioned earlier.  It will fit on two prongs on that connector labeled "CNTRL_PANEL".  Even though it's on a daughter board, most full size boards have those included on them, and the pin connectors look exactly the same.  Once that is connected, if you push the micro switch on the end, it will do the exact same thing as soldering wires from the control panel to a separate micro switch.  Unless the main power from the power supply doesn't run into the motherboard and runs somewhere else, which I've never seen but anything is possible, then it should have no problem working.  You haven't tried my suggestion, but I'm pretty sure it would work.  Heck, if I had that same PC I'd be willing to try it.  I'm almost even tempted to buy that same model just to test it out.  I'm not trying to step on toes, I just think there is a more efficient and easier approach to accomplishing this.

The pins which do what you are writing about are not directly across from each other.  So to do what you are suggesting, one would need a wire with two single, but separate, connectors.  And even after you come up with that uncommon configuration, you still lose the function of the power led and anything else which might be on that board.

Soldering in parallel to the existing switch is the easiest solution here, and requires no specialized parts.

In that case I want to apologize then.  From looking at the pictures it's hard to tell, but I suppose if those contacts are not across from one another it would be difficult, so I can see why you went with the soldering.  I'm sorry if I came across as being a jerk, I wasn't meaning to, I was just trying to offer help and possibly an easier approach, but I understand where you guys went with this now.  I guess I'm just stupid :p  Anyhow, hopefully I didn't piss anyone off too much, and sorry if I came across as a big angry troll on the thread :p

Randy get's another +1 :p