Front Panel Decisions for My First Arcade

[spratkobasa]

First off I want to thank everyone in this community for their help thus far.  I would not have made it this far without your help.   

I am now trying to figure out what I should put in as my front panel to cover my mounted TV.  A couple of factors are going in my head right now (see attached for picture):
- My arcade has been painted with a matte black finish to avoid annoying reflections.  So my preference is towards a matte finish type product. 
- I did not create any furring strips to hold this front cover so I bought some metal furniture braces.  Thus I want to keep the front panel cover light weight.
- I am worried if I go to lightweight the panel won't look as stiff and will look cheap (another decision point is 0.118 vs .080 thickness if I go with plexi)
- Front panel will be 40.5 inches x ~30 inches in size

Options that I have come up with:
1) Use Hardboard (1/8 thick) and prime and paint it the same color as the arcade (cut a hole for the TV screen)
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/1-8-inch-4-feet-x-4-feet-hardboard-handy-panel/935713
2) Use Optix Clear Acrylic sheet (.118 ~ 1/8th thick) and just put it over the TV.  Use blank spray paint on the inner side to create a black border around the TV
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/clear-acrylic-sheet-118-inch-x-36-inch-x-72-inch/924845
3) Same as 3 but cut a hole for the TV screen (using a drill and a jigsaw/router/exacto knife) so there is no additional glare
4) Use some extra plexi that my roommate has lying around for the cheap lol

Anyway, you guys have a lot of experience with stuff so let me know what you think. 

Cheers!

[thomas_surles]

Im doing option 1

[yotsuya]

I did 1 on Macross and was very happy with it.

[spratkobasa]

What thickness of hardboard did you use?  Also yotsuya I saw your macross build and it looked like it had plexi over, do you have a link?

I currently tried to find some arcade with no plexi on the screen and they are few and far between.  I wonder why everyone seems to go the plexi look

[yotsuya]

sprat-

My setup  goes from monitor -> cardboard surround to cover the monitor -> 1/4 MDF hardboard bezel -> graphics bezel printed on poster paper and adhered to the MDF -> 1/8 acrylic plexi.

The plexi is there to probably prevent any cabsoles from taking a knife and carving "F-You Mang" into the CRT glass. Based on the current state of a lot of bezels from back in the day, it's a good idea to do it that way. Probabaly not as big a deal for a MAME cabinet, but for those of us who strive for authenticity, it's a nice touch.

[spratkobasa]

I don't think I have the clearance for that much material in my build.  My arcade will only be at my place so I don't think any cabsoles will go at it. (fingerscrossed).  Did you go with 1./4 MDF as the 1/8th would be too thin?  I hear you on the authenticity, but I also want good play-ability as well.

Too many options is causing paralysis , do you guys find that too?

[yotsuya]

I don't think I have the clearance for that much material in my build.  My arcade will only be at my place so I don't think any cabsoles will go at it. (fingerscrossed).  Did you go with 1./4 MDF as the 1/8th would be too thin?  I hear you on the authenticity, but I also want good play-ability as well.

Too many options is causing paralysis , do you guys find that too?

Yeah, 1/8 is too bendy. You want your bezel to be pretty firm, especially since it has to cover pretty much a two foot span. You don't want it to start sagging anywhere, especially in a spot where there's nothing behind it.

[spratkobasa]

True about the sagging and it would be even worse for me as it is 3.3ft wide.  I crunched some numbers and the MDF after the TV hole is cut would weight about 18.52 lbs, which makes me nervous that my tiny metal furniture braces just screwed in won't hold the weight that well.  I wonder if I can put in some more furring strips by using a paint scrapper against the MDF... 

[Drnick]

I used 1/8th Hardboard, I then covered this with Carbon Fibre Vinyl, You should be able to get  1 inch x 1/2 inch furring strips in behind it under the tv on the sides for support. If you can staple the bezel to those repeat at the top and make sure that it is nice and tight to the monitor it shouldn't sag.

By the way I think your maths are out.  1/2" Mdf weighs in at about 80Lbs for 8 x 4, You are looking to use 1/4" so only 20lbs for a piece 4 x 4 It looks like you will be cutting at least 60% of that out for the tv hole.  I bet a 1/4" bezel would weigh less then 8Lbs.

[spratkobasa]

You are right! I messed up some of my numbers.  I recalculated it and it was only 7.57 lbs of MDF .  So 1/2 inch MDF shouldn't be an issue.  But now I remembered in all of this that I want to make the front panel removable as I want to be able to take out the TV to move it easier (aka decrease weight while lifting).  I wonder what I can make to slot in a good tight fit that is removable... to the drawing board.

[Drnick]

You could run a horizontal piece of something like 3 x 1 across the cab just behind the bit that comes up from the control panel this has a groove all the way across. Repeat at the top. I guess that the hardest bit will be getting the groove at just the right angle. Unless you do the groove straight and then screw the entire piece at an angle. Either way the top piece is then glued and screwed so it never moves. Put the bezel in place and push up into the top groove. Get someone to hold it in place once up there.  You then take the bottom Horizontal support and push it into place on the bottom.  Use some L Brackets  to hold it in place. (I would recommend using inserts if its going to be in and out a few times). When you want to remove it just unscrew the L Brackets, remove the bottom support, allow the bezel to drop, take out and remove monitor.

If you are going to be making it removable then make sure it is sized to leave a tiny tiny gap at the sides when its fitted, otherwise when removing/reinstalling you will risk messing up your paint/vinyl/whatever covering you are using as it may rub.

[spratkobasa]

I was thinking of finding a way for it to drop into a U groove frame at the bottom.  Its hard to visualize what you are saying but I think I get the idea.  I will have to figure out the angles and everything to get this all flushed out.  Also what are inserts?

[Drnick]

Inserts are described here     http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware

As for visualising what I mean see the following picture, Then put a groove in the piece of wood that the bezel can sit into.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=123292.0;attach=280930

[kahlid74]

I consistently do option 2.  I'm not 100% sold on option 2 but it's what I always wind up doing.  Maybe one of these times I'll do option 1.

[spratkobasa]

Thanks kahlid and Dr Nick, I'm going with option #1 after seeing the Plexi in front of the screen. I just need to figure out how to make the TV hole edge look nice and professional. Maybe I will use a router bit to make the edge nice. I also need to make a hole for my aim track sensor and possibly a Kinect. I wonder if I need the Kinect in an arcade. Has anyone else used the Kinect with an arcade?

[Drnick]

Not seen Kinect used with an arcade, I have seen it used with virtual pinball though    Yes use a router on the plexi, If you have a plunge router you can use a plunge bit to start the hole and then a pattern bit to tidy it up.

[spratkobasa]

Option #1 has no plexi at all its just wood.  I think I will go with 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch MDF.  I think it will look nice as long as I make a nice edge around the TV.  The TV also has a bezel too so it might look really weird double bezelled on the edge.  I will have to figure out something to make it look nice.

[kahlid74]

1/4" would be fine but do remember to completely paint it all the way around.  1/4" may warp in time due to moisture in the air if not fully treated.  Definitely get a routers and route the whole edge.  It will look slick and professional.