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Author Topic: Replacing plexi on cpo  (Read 2383 times)

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iscariot

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Replacing plexi on cpo
« on: March 21, 2014, 12:11:58 pm »
I have a CPO that needs replacing.  The plexi is just scratched to death and is cracked in a lot of places.  I'm replacing it with lexan which I've had lots of luck with.  However, I don't want to have to redo the whole panel.  Is there a good way that I can "copy" the existing button layout?

Vigo

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Re: Replacing plexi on cpo
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2014, 01:07:48 pm »
Can you just use the existing plexi as a template?

iscariot

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Re: Replacing plexi on cpo
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2014, 04:01:42 pm »
I might be able to.  My big problem is marking where the center of each hole is to drill properly.  When I say cracked, I mean it's in 4-5 pieces but held in place with a couple of screws and the buttons.

pbj

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Re: Replacing plexi on cpo
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2014, 04:07:40 pm »
Get a router and a flush trim bit.  My amateur ass was able to do it, you can too.


nemesismachine

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Re: Replacing plexi on cpo
« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2014, 11:36:39 am »
What pbj said.  If you have to remove all the buttons anyway, easiest way is to clamp the new plexi to the CP, and route the edge, then use a drill bit to get the flush bit started in the button holes. Contrary to what people say here, if you use a regular 1/2" drill bit but DON'T PUSH, it will melt the acrylic and fall right through without cracking.  Then you can use that flush bit to get the button holes finished.  Be done by lunch, ready for reassembly.

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Re: Replacing plexi on cpo
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 12:59:24 pm »
PBJ and Nemesis are onto the wright path.  You pretty much want to sandwich your Lexan. - CP_Wood->Old_Plexi->New_Lexan->Wood_Scrap.  You could then either use a marker and draw out the holes/etc or you could drill right through the old parts and everything would line up.  Flush trim bit would be the best for the outside edge around the CP.


Contrary to what people say here, if you use a regular 1/2" drill bit but DON'T PUSH, it will melt the acrylic and fall right through without cracking.  Then you can use that flush bit to get the button holes finished.  Be done by lunch, ready for reassembly.

Selfie has a fantastic post that is bookmarked in this wood sub-forum about how to cut/drill plastic.  Melting is a bad thing.  You want to "scrape" away the plastic.  You want to use a drill bit that is dull.  You would never push and I can't remember anyone ever saying to "push".  A dull drill bit scrapes your way to the promise land without any pushing.