Mame on a stick

[kop]

G'Day all, first post on my first build.

Thought I'd ad my 2c worth to this great community as I have gotten heaps of good ideas and building tips from others on here.  It's the internet's one stop shop for all of your arcade building info!

So here goes;

I've always wanted a mame cab.  So when I got a free 32" LCD panel from my old work, I thought I'd use it to build a mame cab as it's pretty useless for anything else in its current state.  The only advantage an LCD has over a CRT IMO is its physical size.  I thought I'd make the most of this by designing a slim looking cabinet around the screen.

My basic design is 3 rectangular boxes. One for the CP and computer, one for the screen and one for the speakers and marquee.  They'll all be joined together by a 125mm x 125mm square piece of metal tube bolted to a metal base.  The screen will be recessed into the metal frame.  I've included a crappy photo of a drawing of my design.



Here's the screen.





I'll try and keep posting updates as I go along.

Cheers.

[drventure]

Interesting idea. I wish I had a monitor that size to play with 

You ought to grab a copy of Sketch up and model up something. It really helps to firm up the proportions and being able to view the idea from all sides helps in making sure the design will all "fit".

Looking forward to more pics.

One question. With it that thin, where will the CPU, ps, etc go?

Personally, I think what could be interesting in a plan like this is to construct something that would appear as it it couldn't even +have+ any internals, maybe use an atom board and mount it actually in the CP itself, so that there's very little of a cab at all.

[Malenko]

youre still going to need a moderately heavy /wide base for stability or its just going to topple over.

[drventure]

Yeah, there's that too. But I could still see that be handled by a wide "frame" as opposed to a solid base.

Then again, I'm pretty bad at making projects far more complicated than they started out 

[kop]

youre still going to need a moderately heavy /wide base for stability or its just going to topple over.

Definately.  I'm going to use a 20mm piece of flat carbon steel for the base.  It should weigh in at >50kg.  It should hopefully be heavy enough to provide a solid foundation.

Interesting idea. I wish I had a monitor that size to play with 

You ought to grab a copy of Sketch up and model up something. It really helps to firm up the proportions and being able to view the idea from all sides helps in making sure the design will all "fit".

Looking forward to more pics.

One question. With it that thin, where will the CPU, ps, etc go?

Personally, I think what could be interesting in a plan like this is to construct something that would appear as it it couldn't even +have+ any internals, maybe use an atom board and mount it actually in the CP itself, so that there's very little of a cab at all.

I initially tried sketchup for about 10 minutes and then gave up.  Just didn't have the patience for it.  I did make cardboard cutouts of the screen and CP and positioned them exactly how I wanted them on the cab.  This gave me a rough idea of how it all should look and feel to play.

My idea is to place the CPU & all other electronics in the CP box.  It's 160mm high so it should (just) fit a computer with a 1/2 height graphics card under all the buttons.  I think my biggest problem will be keeping everything cool.

A pic of my cardboard CP

[drventure]

Cooling really shouldn't be much of a prob. just keep the wiring reasonably neat, have some intake holes or grilles and a couple of exhaust fans, and you should be fine.

Is your idea to have a single post down to the center of the steel plate, or something else?

[Xenor]

Just an idea.   If you're using a steel plate for the base, seems you could weld a reasonable piece of moly tubing to the center of the base that your 125mm x 125mm square metal supporting tube could slip over instead of bolting solid.  This would provide a clean look, with no bolt holes or support bracketry, but also allow the top section to lift off of the heavy base for mobility.

[kop]

Is your idea to have a single post down to the center of the steel plate, or something else?

It is.  There will be one single tube in the middle of the plate.

Just an idea.   If you're using a steel plate for the base, seems you could weld a reasonable piece of moly tubing to the center of the base that your 125mm x 125mm square metal supporting tube could slip over instead of bolting solid.  This would provide a clean look, with no bolt holes or support bracketry, but also allow the top section to lift off of the heavy base for mobility.

Not a bad idea at all.  I'll keep it in mind.  It definately needs to be a modular design as I'll need to transport it around in the back of a Toyota Corolla.

[kop]

Update:

Have cut the metal tubing to size for my frame.

[DaOld Man]

I like the concept. Will be following this build.

[Santoro]

Nice idea.  Watching as well.

[kop]

Update:

Got the frame welded together.

[drventure]

Nice job. The few times I've tried welding, well, they looked nothing like that 

An all steel cabinet is an interesting take.

[Malenko]

you gonna grind down the bead or leave it as is? Going to use an automotive paint or just get it powdercoated?

Just wondering, looks good! great idea with the tubing, it acts like a conduit to hide the wiring, BRILLIANT!

[drventure]

+1 on the powder coat. That stuff is fantastic!

[kop]

Nice job. The few times I've tried welding, well, they looked nothing like that 

An all steel cabinet is an interesting take.

Thanks

The base & steel tube frame will be the only metal parts.  The boxes containing the CP screen & speakers will be made from MDF.

you gonna grind down the bead or leave it as is? Going to use an automotive paint or just get it powdercoated?

Just wondering, looks good! great idea with the tubing, it acts like a conduit to hide the wiring, BRILLIANT!

The beads will be ground down smooth.  It's taking a lot longer than I thought it would to get a smooth finish.  I'm definitely going to powdercoat it.  It'll look really good and the finish should last years.

The tubing is perfect for running all the connecting wires.  They'll all be hidden.  I'm also planning to use the tube as a kind of an exhaust system to extract the hot air from the CP below, through the tube and out through an exhaust fan up top using some computer fans.  Hopefully this works as well in reality as it does in my head.

[kop]

Update:

Smoothed out the welds on my frame.  I wasn't able to get it perfectly flat.  I accidentally ground too much off in certain sections. 

It'll have to do.  Still looks OK.  I'm thinking I might go a thicker type textured finish of powder coat to try and help fix my crappy use of an angle grinder.

[bigpete405]

Instead of hoping the powder coat will fix the ground down spots, get some car panel filler and use it to even out the surface it will work perfect.

[versapak]

Instead of hoping the powder coat will fix the ground down spots, get some car panel filler and use it to even out the surface it will work perfect.

Can you powder coat bondo?

[gryhnd]

Can you powder coat bondo?

or solder?

Heck...maybe just run some brazing rod right onto the shallow spots, then regrind?

[mpm32]

you can powder coat over this;

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=all+metal+filler&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

[CheffoJeffo]

I love the design.

 

[r32]

Such a cool idea! I love it. 

That reminds me. I have got to get a welding license. 

[kop]

Such a cool idea! I love it. 

I love the design.

 

Thanks    Hopefully it turns out looking as good as it currently does in my head.

you can powder coat over this;

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=all+metal+filler&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

Brilliant!  Thanks for the link.  This stuff looks good.  I'll just need to find a local source for it now.

[Bender]

Looking Great!
Can't wait to see how this one turns out!

[kop]

Update:

Have put together 2 metal brackets that will join the control panel & speaker/marquee boxes to the main frame.

Top bracket for speaker/marquee.



Bottom bracket for control panel.  I had to angle the 2 metal bits that slide into the frame to match the angle of the frame.  This should provide about a 10 degree angle to the CP.



Painted

[Franco B]

Looking goooooood 

It's always nice to see some metal work 

[kop]

Update:

Cut out my base out of 10mm carbon steel.  Ended up being about 70kg all up, a bit heavier than I thought it would be.  Oh well, at least its alleviated any concerns I had about the cab being unstable.

I made it a triangular type shape to help it fit neater into corners if I decide to place it in one.

[Silas (son of Silas)]

This is really weird... I know I'm on the BYOAC forum but it's starting to feel scarily like my other hang out

Some tidy work going on there. 

[emphatic]

You should get the Sherman Tank logo on that thing. 

[IG-88]

Not to be a smart --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- but how do you plan on moving this thing once it's built? It's gonna end up weighing a thousand pounds!!!   

[Havok]

Not to be a smart --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- but how do you plan on moving this thing once it's built? It's gonna end up weighing a thousand pounds!!!   

Without the control panel and LCD, it's 150 pounds. He's still under the average weight for a classic arcade cabinet. If it get's too heavy with everything mounted, just remove the LCD and control panel to move. Should still be fairly easy. Hell, my Race Drivin cockpit cabinet is 750 pounds. This one's a feather in comparison...

[IG-88]

Well I hope you are right. Looks flippen heavy to me. 

[drventure]

Wow. Hadn't check on this build in a few days. Damn that looks like a tank!

 

[djfunkshun]

I would have gone with aluminum, but to each his own. Great looking project though.  I have years of experience welding, as skill sets go it has to be the most under rated. Woodworkers get all the glory, but metalworkers build the world. Steel is just so heavy/cheap compared to aluminum. I forget not everyone can get aluminum as easily as I can.

[Havok]

I would think aluminum would be too light? The cab's got to be heavy enough to support a control panel that overhangs the center of gravity, with people putting weight on it to further destabilize it. Since you work with it, to cut the same size structure, how heavy would it be if made of aluminum?

[kop]

This is really weird... I know I'm on the BYOAC forum but it's starting to feel scarily like my other hang out

Some tidy work going on there. 

Many thanks    I've added that forum to my favourites.  Some pretty good reading there.

You should get the Sherman Tank logo on that thing. 

Wow. Hadn't check on this build in a few days. Damn that looks like a tank!

 

It definately feels like a Sherman tank when you try and lift it yourself   

Not to be a smart --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- but how do you plan on moving this thing once it's built? It's gonna end up weighing a thousand pounds!!!   

Not to be a smart --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- but how do you plan on moving this thing once it's built? It's gonna end up weighing a thousand pounds!!!   

Without the control panel and LCD, it's 150 pounds. He's still under the average weight for a classic arcade cabinet. If it get's too heavy with everything mounted, just remove the LCD and control panel to move. Should still be fairly easy. Hell, my Race Drivin cockpit cabinet is 750 pounds. This one's a feather in comparison...

The base is by far the heaviest part of the cab.  I have designed it to be modular and be held together by bolts.  It will be heavy but shouldn't bee to much of an issue moving with a little help.

I would have gone with aluminum, but to each his own. Great looking project though.  I have years of experience welding, as skill sets go it has to be the most under rated. Woodworkers get all the glory, but metalworkers build the world. Steel is just so heavy/cheap compared to aluminum. I forget not everyone can get aluminum as easily as I can.

I would think aluminum would be too light? The cab's got to be heavy enough to support a control panel that overhangs the center of gravity, with people putting weight on it to further destabilize it. Since you work with it, to cut the same size structure, how heavy would it be if made of aluminum?

Aluminium is about 1/3 of the weight of carbon steel, so probably a little light to keep the cabinet stable.  That and even with access to the best MIG welder money can buy, my Aluminuim welding skills are horrible.  Welding aluminuim well is definately a fine art.

[Comtek]

Do you have anything sketched up in 3d to give us a batter idea of what you envision

definetly and awesome machine so far

[djfunkshun]

I would think aluminum would be too light? The cab's got to be heavy enough to support a control panel that overhangs the center of gravity, with people putting weight on it to further destabilize it. Since you work with it, to cut the same size structure, how heavy would it be if made of aluminum?

I guess it would depend on how stable you would want it. I would still use a steel base attached to aluminum plate, but the rest would all be tube 1"x 1" for bracing and 2" x 2" for the actual structure. I imagine it could weigh less than 100 pounds fully assembled. I guess the details would be in the design as to how much lean one would need to support players and monitor. A steel base should be enough with proper slant to counterbalance if made from aluminum.


That is one hell of a project though steel or not.

[kop]

Do you have anything sketched up in 3d to give us a batter idea of what you envision

definetly and awesome machine so far

Thanks    I tried to do something 3D in Sketchup but gave up after about 10min.  Just didn't have the patience with it.  Hopefully the 3D sketch in my head turns into what i want the cabinet to look like.

I would think aluminum would be too light? The cab's got to be heavy enough to support a control panel that overhangs the center of gravity, with people putting weight on it to further destabilize it. Since you work with it, to cut the same size structure, how heavy would it be if made of aluminum?

I guess it would depend on how stable you would want it. I would still use a steel base attached to aluminum plate, but the rest would all be tube 1"x 1" for bracing and 2" x 2" for the actual structure. I imagine it could weigh less than 100 pounds fully assembled. I guess the details would be in the design as to how much lean one would need to support players and monitor. A steel base should be enough with proper slant to counterbalance if made from aluminum.


That is one hell of a project though steel or not.

I did briefly toy with the idea if an aluminium centre tube.  I would have left it unpainted cos it would have looked awesome.  At the end of the day though steel ticked all the boxes.  It was much cheaper, I find it easier to work with, and it should make the cabinet more stable due to the extra weight.  I'll just have to paint it for it to look any good.

[kop]

Update:

Stuck the base together. Pretty heavy, but not as heavy as I thought it would be moving it around.  Still most definately a 2 man lift though.

[HaRuMaN]

Awesome work...  for some reason, I thought this was a thread about MAME on a thumb drive, so I've been skipping it.  Nice metal work!   

[drventure]

You could always let it get rusty for that "old battleship" look 

[kop]

Awesome work...  for some reason, I thought this was a thread about MAME on a thumb drive, so I've been skipping it.  Nice metal work!   

Cheers. 

You could always let it get rusty for that "old battleship" look 

   Rust is the natural born enemy of this build. I fear it!  (Although the rustic look would be cool)

[kop]

Update:

Drilled all the bolt holes out of the frame with a fancy drill press with a magnetic base we have at work.  Made life heaps easier.

[djfunkshun]

^We have one of those where i work, just about need the overhead crane to get in to place when working on a sign. And yes they do make life easier.

[kop]

Update:

Welded 2 bits of 10mm metal at 90 degrees to bolt the frame to the base. The holes are drilled and tapped for the bolts.

I ended up welding little spots evenly on each side of metal to keep a perfect 90 degree angle.  It worked a treat, the bolt holes lined up perfectly. The welding looks awful but should be strong enough.



The outside ground down for the frame to fit.



Bolted on.



All together.

[t3design]

Man, that is sick!

Question: Why did you put the side of the base with the holes for the welds up? I would have thought you would want the smooth solid side up.

[drventure]

I dunno. I think the holes look pretty slick. Gives it a factory/military look.

[kop]

Man, that is sick!

Question: Why did you put the side of the base with the holes for the welds up? I would have thought you would want the smooth solid side up.

I dunno. I think the holes look pretty slick. Gives it a factory/military look.

Thanks. 

I will cover the metal base with a wooden surrounding so it won't be seen. The welds are on the top so the bottom is the flattest side.

[drventure]

Aw. Dont' do that! Maybe trim it in wood, but leave the center part bare metal?

I think it looks pretty cool as is.

[t3design]

Aw. Dont' do that! Maybe trim it in wood, but leave the center part bare metal?

I think it looks pretty cool as is.

+1

The whole thing here is the metal. You gotta stick with that. I can see the holes as "decoration", so I would just grind the welds smooth and powder coat the whole thing. That would look fantastic!

[Potts]

very cool indeed - it's great that people are trying new things.  Good luck with the build kop

cheers
Potts

[kop]

Aw. Dont' do that! Maybe trim it in wood, but leave the center part bare metal?

I think it looks pretty cool as is.

+1

The whole thing here is the metal. You gotta stick with that. I can see the holes as "decoration", so I would just grind the welds smooth and powder coat the whole thing. That would look fantastic!

You guys do have me thinking, but I still reckon the base would look better finished the same colour as the rest. This way the rectangular frame will be a different colour and will stand out more.

Love the input though    Other opinions always open your eyes to things you never think of.  Cheers. 

very cool indeed - it's great that people are trying new things.  Good luck with the build kop

cheers
Potts

Thanks Potts.

Trying something different has so far meant spending much more time, money and effort than I thought I ever would.  Will be worth it when i finish though, I should have something pretty unique.

[kop]

Update:

Have fixed the metal brackets I made to the frame.  I will then fix the MDF CP & marquee boxes to the brackets.  The box holding the screen will slide into the slot cut out for it in the middle of the frame.





I found these bolts to use that don't look too unsightly.  I'll paint them up to match the colour of the CP & the rest.

[drventure]

Very cool, but boy, that metal base plate looks like a real toe stumper! Better not play barefoot! 

[versapak]

This thing looks awesome so far.

All these things designed to into one another...

Are you allowing for the size differences you will have after powder coating?

[kop]

Very cool, but boy, that metal base plate looks like a real toe stumper! Better not play barefoot! 

  I'll be sure to keep my feet away.  Especially on cold winter mornings 

This thing looks awesome so far.

All these things designed to into one another...

Are you allowing for the size differences you will have after powder coating?

Cheers. 

I've left enough clearance.  I was told beforehand powder coating is pretty thick, so I factored it in.

[Nacimroc]

This thing is nuts! Can't wait to see it done! Can't picture how it will turn out yet! How heavy is it now ? Can 2 people lift it ?

[kop]

This thing is nuts! Can't wait to see it done! Can't picture how it will turn out yet! How heavy is it now ? Can 2 people lift it ?

Cheers    It's probably around 90kg all together, with the base making up around 70kg of that.  My dad & I just managed to get it up 2 flights of 8 stairs (with a rest in between each flight )  It was heavy but doable.

[kop]

Update:

Drilled all the holes in the brackets for the MDF to bolt to.





I also decided AFTER finishing the base that I should rout the power cable through the base for a neater look.  So what would have been a 2min adjustment to a CAD drawing turned out to be hours drilling & grinding a groove in the base.

Drilled



Cut out.



That's all i have to do metal wise so I have now finally dragged it home. (inflicting only minimal back pain in the process.)  

[Blanka]

What game theme are you gonna use?
Tank?
Next time do better in construction class. OMG, this holds 200 people if used as a column for a balcony. The Maastricht balcony incident would not have happened!

[ammitz]

Nice build 

[Havok]

So I take you aren't going to have any exposed metal then, since it's in the house already? I thought you were going to powder coat it?

[drventure]

Oh, he's going to assemble the whole thing now just to "make sure it all works" and then the cab'll stay looking just like that for the next year 

[kop]

What game theme are you gonna use?
Tank?
Next time do better in construction class. OMG, this holds 200 people if used as a column for a balcony. The Maastricht balcony incident would not have happened!

  I agree it's pretty big.  Maybe I should apply for a job in balcony construction?

Nice build 

Cheers. 

So I take you aren't going to have any exposed metal then, since it's in the house already? I thought you were going to powder coat it?

The base will be covered in wood but the blue metal frame will be powder coated.  I want to get all the woodworking done before I start adding colour.  I reckon this will be a while coming.

Oh, he's going to assemble the whole thing now just to "make sure it all works" and then the cab'll stay looking just like that for the next year 

  I reckon that comment is right on the money.

[kop]

Update:

Brought all the wood I need this weekend and started by making up some mounting brackets for the electronics running my LCD panel.  I will then glue them onto the back of the panel.

[kop]

Update:

Worked on the cover for my base.

It's a 6mm MDF sheet with a hole cut for the metal frame/pole.







Cut the side coverings.



Glued and screwed them together.



Then stuck them together ready for routing.

[emphatic]

 

Foot/toe hazard increased though.

[kop]

Foot/toe hazard increased though.

I've trimmed all that excess off with a router. 

It's still sure to provide more than its fair share of toe bashings in its finished state though.  I'm staying away on cold mornings.

[kop]

Update:

Trimmed the top with a router.



Can you tell it's the first time I've used a router?





I've used some builders bog to cover it up that should dry by morning.

[wilno45]

Great project you got there,

Just a thought - are you going to powder coat the underside of the base? It's going to leave a slight impression
in your carpet anyway  don't want any rust marks too!

Cheers

[kop]

Great project you got there,

Just a thought - are you going to powder coat the underside of the base? It's going to leave a slight impression
in your carpet anyway  don't want any rust marks too!

Cheers

Thanks. 

I'm going to cut up some 8mm rubber sheets and place them underneath the base around the edges.  This should make the cab more stable and lift the base off the carpet. 

and I've already been sternly warned about my project leaving rust marks on the carpet 

[kop]

Update:

Gotta love builder's bog    It's like the accidents never happened.





Base cover finished.

[kop]

Update:

Here's the CP box that will house the CPU and other electronics as well.

Nothing groundbreaking here.  It's just a rectangular box with a lid.





Routed a recess for the metal braket to sit in.












Lid on.

[kop]

Update:

Finished up the CP.

Drilled holes for the bracket to be fixed to the wood.


Some of the bolts in.




Filed in the gaps with filler to (hopefully) provide more strength and rigidity.


And finally, I made some sort of a brace out of hardwood that sits on the lip of the metal bracket and is screwed into the MDF.  This should help when angry people playing my cab put a little too much downward force onto the top of the CP.  I felt the screws alone wouldn't be enough.

[DashRendar]

Looks good.

I see what you guys are saying about wanting to keep the metal look- something industrial, etc. 

I'd say that would be perfect if this was going to be in the garage or basement.

Since it's going to be in the house though, gotta keep the appearance clean.   

Due to it being all metal, are you going to run a ground wire from it Kop?   

[kop]

Looks good.

I see what you guys are saying about wanting to keep the metal look- something industrial, etc. 

I'd say that would be perfect if this was going to be in the garage or basement.

Since it's going to be in the house though, gotta keep the appearance clean.   

Due to it being all metal, are you going to run a ground wire from it Kop?   

Thanks mate.

The metal will be definitely all grounded.  Gotta avoid potential hair frizzing mishaps.

[kop]

Update:

Got the enclosure that will house the monitor done.



A little recess for the frame to sit into.




Wooden blocks in each corner for the LCD to sit on.

[kop]

Update:

Pretty much finished the box that will house my speakers and marquee.

Cut the pieces out and am using a metal bracket similar to the way i made my CP.


Routed out a 8mm lip for the clear plastic cover of my marquee to sit into.




Bolted on.




Filled the gaps.


All together with speaker holes cut.

[filuren33]

I love this! 

Building an arcade machine using a welder and anglegrinder.... Just great.
I Will follow this with great intrest. 

[kop]

I love this! 

Building an arcade machine using a welder and anglegrinder.... Just great.
I Will follow this with great intrest. 

Thanks mate. 

________________________________________________________________

Update:

Finished up the speaker/marquee box.

Fully sealed the speaker enclosures.  Hopefully this will help to get some sort of bass response out of a pair of 5 1/4" speakers.




Also made room for a 120mm x 38mm exhaust fan that I plan to use to suck out all the hot air from the CPU & monitor through the metal frame..

[oldgamesrbetter]

This project has the badass factor written all over it with all the metal. Love it!

_____________________________________________
ARCADE VORTEX http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=99724.0

[kop]

This project has the badass factor written all over it with all the metal. Love it!

Thanks. 

__________________________________________________

Update:

Drilled out the holes for my CP.  It includes;

3" Trackball

P1 & P2 x6 buttons

P3 & P4 x3 buttons

P1, P2, P3 & P4 each have a start & coin button as well.

I will have a shift button hidden and map some of the CP buttons for MAME functions such as pause & exit.





& just a quick question for anyone reading. 

Because it's a pretty small CP and I want to keep it as neat as I can, I'm thinking of using only 5 start/coin buttons.  P1-P4 start and only 1 coin button mapped to all 4 players coin buttons in MAME.  Has anyone had any experience with this sort of setup? Do you recommend it? Are there any potential pitfalls I might encounter?

Thanks in advance. 

[emphatic]

How about holding down P3 fire1 and pressing coin adds coins to that "slot", holding fire1 for P4 and pressing coin adds to that one etc. Should be pretty easy to setup in MAME's configuration. Just make an instruction strip and place it on your cabinet. Most 4 player games uses dedicated coin slots I guess, I only play 1player games myself.

[eclipso]

Is it intentional to have the buttons not layed out the same spacing / angle on the right side of the trackball?

[kop]

How about holding down P3 fire1 and pressing coin adds coins to that "slot", holding fire1 for P4 and pressing coin adds to that one etc. Should be pretty easy to setup in MAME's configuration. Just make an instruction strip and place it on your cabinet. Most 4 player games uses dedicated coin slots I guess, I only play 1player games myself.

Great idea.    That should work perfectly.  I've done a little more research and found most games I play are fine with 1 coin button.  For the others, I'll use that method. 

Only wish I'd thought using 5 buttons instead of 8 BEFORE drilling into my CP.

Is it intentional to have the buttons not layed out the same spacing / angle on the right side of the trackball?

It is. 

P1 & P2 have the exact same button layout and spacing but are both slightly angled into the centre of the screen at the same angle.  This way just felt better when I mocked up a cardboard CP.

[Havok]

Is it intentional to have the buttons not layed out the same spacing / angle on the right side of the trackball?

Yeah, at first I was thinking the same. However it makes sense if you picture the joystick location and where your hands have to go in relation to Player 2's position.

[eclipso]

Is it intentional to have the buttons not layed out the same spacing / angle on the right side of the trackball?

Yeah, at first I was thinking the same. However it makes sense if you picture the joystick location and where your hands have to go in relation to Player 2's position.

Yeah I see that now; I was thinking of it being symmetrical which wouldn't be practical with the trackball placement.

[kop]

Update:

Just done a couple of little things.

Cut 2 80mm holes underneath my CP for some intake fans.




Put a little edge around where the metal frame will sit.




You can also see in the above pictures I've rounded all the square edges.  I used a 6mm rounding router bit.

That's about all the woodworking done.  I hope to get it all fitted together within the next day or 2 for a final check on everything before I paint.  I will post pics when I do.

Cheers.

[kop]

Update:

Fitted everything together so I (and you all) can see what it's gonna look like when it's done.

[eclipso]

I think its going to look fantastic once you get it all done, cant wait.

[drventure]

Ok. I guess I can live with you covering up that cool metal base plate with the MDF 

But, hmmm, not trying to be picky or be negative, cause I really do like this whole build.

First, because the base plate comes out to right at the edge of the CP, it sure +looks+like that base is either
1) going to be one hell of a toe stubber
or
2) whatever paint you do put on there is gonna get rubbed off by shoes very quickly
But whatever, that's really pretty minor.


Second. The proportions of everything look spot on, except for the CP. It seems too thick, or something, in relation to the rest of the cabinet. I can't quite put my finger on it, though. And it could be just the angle of the photos is making it look odd. God knows I've taken photos and looked at em later thinking "WTF?". And I believe you're needing to stuff the PC, HD, etc in that CP, so that may be where some of it is coming from.


Seriously though. This +is+ a cool build. I love how it looks like just this slim "monitor arm" with no obvious PC to power it.

[emphatic]

+1 on the controller box thickness. Overall very awesome. 

[ccmathome]

thats going to look really good when done, cant wait to see it finished

[Silas (son of Silas)]

I think the CP thickness looks very fitting for the overall effect. I wouldn't change it at all.

[pj14701]

been folowing this build for a while and decided to stop lurking and start posting some. cant wait to see it all painted up and in use

[HaRuMaN]

Cp box too big...  other than that, awesome!   

[gryhnd]

I think the apparent CP "thickness" could be easily mitigated by making a slight alteration to the base. For example, build up the back of the base by a few inches & have that height (platform) extend forward to a couple inches in front of the central column.  Then, taper that down to the original base but make it terminate 5 or 6 inches before the front edge.  This will help the CP to better blend visually by beefing up the base, but not ruin the "stick" look.

Or something along those lines that fits the base size and your own vision.

In addition, the "toe stub" factor could be helped, and would fit the look, with a little diamond plate threshold that bridged the MDF down to the floor. If you're going to powder coat everything, powder coat the diamond plate too.

[wilno45]

I think the CP size is about right - could go bigger if need be. Maybe even semi circular?

Ps. My wife is always leaving her weights and gym stuff  lying around too, keep tripping up on the darn things. 

Looking real nice mate.

[kop]

Thanks everyone for all the nice comments 

I do agree 100% with everyone about the thickness of the CP.  It's something I did my head in over for a while when planning.

It would have looked heaps better with the CP the same thickness as the rest, but it just became a situation of function over form.  I couldn't fit all the stuff I needed to run the machine into anything thinner.

[JazBrown]

Regarding the base and the toe stubbing/paint wearing issues.

It might be cool if you routed out a 45[ish] degree angle as deep as you can on that front edge and dropped in a piece of diamond plate as a sort of foot rest\toe kick.

[MaximRecoil]

What's with the "toe stub" comments? The base only extends out roughly as far as the control panel does, which is how it was done on countless classic arcade cabinets. Unless the player has arms that are half the length of normal arms (or feet twice the size of normal feet), "toe stub" shouldn't be a problem.

[versapak]

What's with the "toe stub" comments? The base only extends out roughly as far as the control panel does, which is how it was done on countless classic arcade cabinets. Unless the player has arms that are half the length of normal arms (or feet twice the size of normal feet), "toe stub" shouldn't be a problem.

Well...

On most arcade cabs the control panels were not even with the base. They extend out a bit, and you'd be far more likely to stub a toe on a little raised platform like his rather than a big panel that you would see on most cabs.

That being said, I doubt that stubbing toes will really be much of an issue. It might be a little bit uncomfortable if part of your foot wants to naturally rest on the platform though. Of course, being that I am not standing in front of it, I obviously couldn't really say, but again...

I doubt that will be much of an issue. Overall this cab is looking pretty darn nice.

[MaximRecoil]

Well...

On most arcade cabs the control panels were not even with the base. They extend out a bit, and you'd be far more likely to stub a toe on a little raised platform like his rather than a big panel that you would see on most cabs.

It looks to me that his control panel does extend out a bit (look at the picture I attached). Even if it doesn't, there were games where the base was dead even with the control panel (particularly common with cabarets). Even on the ones that extended past the base, it was only usually by ~a couple of inches. When I stand normally at my Missile Command, my feet are 9" away from the base. In this case, the control panel extends 2.5", so it would be 6.5" if the base was even with the control panel.  

And yes, one is more likely to stub their toe on a short raised platform than on a vertical wall, but that only matters if it is in one's walking path or foot placement area in the first place.

[kop]

The base only extends out roughly as far as the control panel does, which is how it was done on countless classic arcade cabinets.

The above comment is on the money.  The edge of the CP extends over the base around 80mm or 3"  Looking again at the pic I attached I can see why the toe stub comments exist.  It looks like the base extends past the CP for some reason.

Wearing out of the base might be an issue though because poeple will be more inclined to lean their feet on the little ledge.  It'll be something I'll address if/when it becomes a problem.  I'm just hanging out to get the thing working and playable ATM.

[JazBrown]

I actually don't think toe stubbing will be an issue. paint wear might be though.

I just thought a piece of diamond plate would look cool 

[gryhnd]

I actually don't think toe stubbing will be an issue. paint wear might be though.

I just thought a piece of diamond plate would look cool 

As did I in post #98...powder coated to match the rest of the metal would be great...

[arno]

Nice 'heavy' project! When do you post the new update?

Greetz,
Arno

[dynasty_trs]

Amazing...  amazing!

I really want that setup...  Is it okay to copy designs???  Do you mind?

It would most likely be all MDF.

Thanks!!

[kop]

I actually don't think toe stubbing will be an issue. paint wear might be though.

I just thought a piece of diamond plate would look cool 

As did I in post #98...powder coated to match the rest of the metal would be great...

Ah.  Gotta say this idea is growing on me the more I think about it.  will break up the colour on the base as well and provide a nice contrast.

Nice 'heavy' project! When do you post the new update?

Greetz,
Arno

Unfortunately this project has come to a grinding halt.  All I've done is send the metal off to the powder coaters.  Full time uni & part time work don't leave time for much else   I get a month off in July so should get the rest done then.

Amazing...  amazing!

I really want that setup...  Is it okay to copy designs???  Do you mind?

It would most likely be all MDF.

Thanks!!

Copy away!    Don't mind at all.

[Elerium-115]

Unfortunately this project has come to a grinding halt.  All I've done is send the metal off to the powder coaters.  Full time uni & part time work don't leave time for much else   I get a month off in July so should get the rest done then.

Its been months    Any new progress with the cabinet? We miss you!

[Flip The Switch]

Awesome, cant wait to see some paint on it :0D

[sstralkowski]

I just found this thread and have been salivating over it.  Sadly, it looks like the project died.  Come back Kop!  I need to see this finished!

[SNAAKE]

awesome and weird..I liike

[mgb]

When I saw the starting pics, I was like, whaaat 
But its really kinda cool.
A design like that would really go well with a rotatable monitor.

[Rick]

Is it bad to bump such an awesome project?  Kop - where are you?

[kop]

Appreciate all the nice comments above!

Thought I'd post an update on what's been painfully slow progress on my cab.  Life somehow always manages to get in the way.

Now it's in the middle of being primed.  I've sprayed on a couple of layers of automotive primer/filler, then sanded flat after each layer.  Now I'm at the point of using some putty (the red blobs) to cover some imperfections then I'll sand, and spray some primer again.



I also got my metal frame back from the powder coaters.





I've cut out a recessed hole underneath the CP to mount a shift button for my IPAC.



I didn't really like the way I designed my speaker mounts with the speakers being visible, so I redesigned this bit.  I couldn't take pics when I did this bit, but it basically involved using carefully cut out pieces of MDF offcuts, wood glue, HEAPS of bondo, then a heap of sanding.

Here's the old setup with what would have been visible speakers.





Here's how it is now with a recessed speaker and square speaker enclosure.  I think the square enclosures fit in better with the design of the rest of the cabinet.




With speakers fitted





I've also made a start on some speaker grilles.  Just pieces of MDF cut to shape.


& I'll be using these little speaker grille plugs to hold the grille in.

[emphatic]

Awesome!  Welcome back! 

[Rick]

I love how clean this cab is.  I am praying that I can get my woodwoork and sanding to look as nice!  (...and I hope you'll forgive me, but I am totally stealing your speaker mounting idea.)

 

[Mr Wilson]

top quality work love all the attention to detail your putting into this 

[kop]

Awesome!  Welcome back! 

top quality work love all the attention to detail your putting into this 

Thanks guys. 

I love how clean this cab is.  I am praying that I can get my woodwoork and sanding to look as nice!  (...and I hope you'll forgive me, but I am totally stealing your speaker mounting idea.)

 

Thanks, but it looks so nice because there don't happen to be any pics of where the wood joins together. Every single joint has shown through the primer!  First & last time I ever use MDF!!! Terrible stuff, the sawdust is a killer and sealing the edges is a PITA.  My unwanted dragging out of this project has proven handy though. I would have almost cried if the joins had shown through the final paintwork.

Feel free to use the speaker mounting idea, it's just a variation on what's here. This board's full of innovative ideas that have helped my project evolve to what it is now.




I've finally finished uni for the year and have promised myself to spend every spare second between now & Christmas working on my cab.  It's taking a change of direction though.  The sleek & compact cab I had in my head when I started this project kinda didn't eventuate when I finished the building. It looks a bit bulky in areas & the lines just don't flow.  Serves me right for not spending the time to draw something up in a 3D sketch program and rushing out to just start building it. Oh well.

Anyway, I've decided to make it a 2P cab & trim some excess hanging off the CP & the base to give it a more slimline & uniform look. I plan to have some more updates on progress very soon.

Cheers.

[Vebbo]

Very cool idea and that stick looked so slick powdercoated! Keep up the good work.  

[Malenko]

welcome back! I was hoping to see the finished product, been following since the beginning!

[vidmouse]

Awesome build, truly unique.

One thing I am concerned about though is the fit of the PC components
inside the CP box... esp now because it sounds like you're making it smaller?
I know you said you measured, but I haven't seen any photos w/ components
in -place as a test-fit.

Great ideas here though -- inspiring

[drventure]

Good to see this is still coming along!

[skinz]

Regarding the MDF - If you dont want the joinery to show everything has to be mitered.  Ply wont be any better if its not mitered.  You are having trouble sealing the edges because MDF has a dense layer on the outsides and less dense material in the center.  If you want a consistent density try something called Ranger board - Looks just like MDF but dense all the way through.  More expensive but well worth it - It would still poke through the primer though if its not mitered.    Still protect yourself from the dust - It will kill you !!!!

Build looks really good though - Even if you covered the CP with something the seams would still show through eventually - even if you sanded it perfectly smooth.  If the wood moves at all due to any moisture change (and it will if you don't have humidity control in your house) it will never look seamless.  

Every time I looked at this I always thought you wanted it to look like that and did that on purpose - Personally I like it and will pretend you meant it to be that way.  The exposed joints will make everything look like its boxed off - I like it!

EDIT - I just went and looked more and read what you wrote last and you are crazy to beat yourself up about any of this project - It looks awesome.  You might have visioned sleek - and thats what it is. Sleek.  I want one!

[NiteWalker]

From shopnotes a long while back:

[kop]

Very cool idea and that stick looked so slick powdercoated! Keep up the good work. 

Good to see this is still coming along!

Thanks guys! 

welcome back! I was hoping to see the finished product, been following since the beginning!

Thanks mate! The beginning feels like an eternity ago.  Here's hoping the end is now closer than the beginning.

Awesome build, truly unique.

One thing I am concerned about though is the fit of the PC components
inside the CP box... esp now because it sounds like you're making it smaller?
I know you said you measured, but I haven't seen any photos w/ components
in -place as a test-fit.

Great ideas here though -- inspiring

Cheers.  My measurements say a mATX motherboard should JUST squeeze in width wise. My main concern is the height of the PC components with the joysticks, buttons etc. mounted on the CP. I plan to build everything else first & then build a PC within my space limits. There are plenty of pretty nifty HTPC & mini ITX systems around these days that aren't too expensive so I should be OK in finding bits small enough to fit into the confined space.

From shopnotes a long while back:

Regarding the MDF - If you dont want the joinery to show everything has to be mitered.  Ply wont be any better if its not mitered.  You are having trouble sealing the edges because MDF has a dense layer on the outsides and less dense material in the center.  If you want a consistent density try something called Ranger board - Looks just like MDF but dense all the way through.  More expensive but well worth it - It would still poke through the primer though if its not mitered.    Still protect yourself from the dust - It will kill you !!!!

Build looks really good though - Even if you covered the CP with something the seams would still show through eventually - even if you sanded it perfectly smooth.  If the wood moves at all due to any moisture change (and it will if you don't have humidity control in your house) it will never look seamless. 

Every time I looked at this I always thought you wanted it to look like that and did that on purpose - Personally I like it and will pretend you meant it to be that way.  The exposed joints will make everything look like its boxed off - I like it!

EDIT - I just went and looked more and read what you wrote last and you are crazy to beat yourself up about any of this project - It looks awesome.  You might have visioned sleek - and thats what it is. Sleek.  I want one!

Thanks guys!  All great advice.     

Since I spotted the joins coming through, I've spent hours on the net reading up on the best ways to finish MDF.  Most are pretty similar in explaining sealing techniques (bondo, drywall compound etc.) and most also conclude that there will be movement regardless of what you do.  It's just the nature of the material.  I think half my problem was I initially used a water & PVA glue mix to seal the edges many months ago. (Great advice from the man at the hardware store  )   Although a pretty common way people seem to seal MDF, water is MDF's natural born enemy & will make the ends of the wood swell.

Anyway, my initial plan was to use a wrinkle/textured type of matte paint as they are normally pretty hard wearing & it will match the texture of the powder coat on the frame.  After my joint dramas, this type of paint should (hopefully) also help in hiding any small movements in the MDF due to moisture.


Here's a few pics of how I'm modifying the base.


The existing base marked with where I want to cut.  Rapt that my bondo work covering up my terrible routing skills is also being cut out.


The shape of the old base.


Cut & new side trim attached.





The new shape.  Fits in better with the monitor & marquee box I think as now they're all the same width and it's more rectangular in shape.  Not really sure what the shape of the old base was all about.  Just a random hexagonal shape I pulled out of my butt I think.


Cheers.

[kop]

I finished up work on the base of my cab today.

Here's a pic of the wooden cover with all the woodworking done.


Now the fun part!   Dragging a 70kg piece of metal outside to cut.  I prey I never have to do this again!

I borrowed an angle grinder from work that's as big as my dog. The thing scares the hell out of me but it's the quickest & easiest way to trim the sides off the metal base.


One side cut off. This took me ages as I was taking extra special care not to accidentally slice my leg off.


Both sides cut off, the rough edges cleaned up, and all limbs intact.  


Here it is with the wooden cover fitted.


& finally with the metal frame fitted as well.

[emphatic]

I'm glad no one was hurt in the process!  Looks great.

[drventure]

Lookin good, but I still say that plate metal base would look good as is. Got that boiler room aesthetic going!

[DaOld Man]

This build looks great!
I highly suggest you invest in a oxy-acetylene torch. That would beat the tar out of cutting with a grinder.
I was wondering about the slot you had to cut in the metal base for the power cord, I was thinking wouldnt it be easier to route a slot in the MDF? But now I see you have raised the MDF off the metal, so there should be lots of room for a power cord. I guess I am used to taking the easy way out.

Anyway, nice design, very unique. Cant wait to see it completely finished.

[jipp]

looks great, and i like the new design for the base.. i live in the desert so i live in bare feet.. i could of imagine stubbing my toes way to offend on the old design.. keep up the good work.

chris.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

Still looks great, but for what it's worth I thought it was awesome before.

[mgb]

This is definately a different type of build. very original and very nice.
keep up the good work

[kop]

Appreciate all the positive comments guys!    Helps keep me motivated to try & finish this project.

This build looks great!
I highly suggest you invest in a oxy-acetylene torch. That would beat the tar out of cutting with a grinder.
I was wondering about the slot you had to cut in the metal base for the power cord, I was thinking wouldnt it be easier to route a slot in the MDF? But now I see you have raised the MDF off the metal, so there should be lots of room for a power cord. I guess I am used to taking the easy way out.

Anyway, nice design, very unique. Cant wait to see it completely finished.

Cheers! 

An Oxy torch sure would have made light work of that metal!   I've got access to one at work, problem I had was that the bottles were massive & would've be a big PITA to transport in the back of my car.





I started on the trimming of my CP this weekend.

Here's a pic that gives an idea of how much I'm trimming off the sides.



Pic with the new lower profile sides attached and the front of the CP trimmed to the same lower profile height.





I've trimmed just over an inch from the height of the CP. This pic gives you an idea of just how much I've taken off the top.



I've had to use the angle grinder to cut the metal frame to lower the overall height of the CP.  Feels a bit like I'm on an episode of Overhaulin' 







Everything trimmed. Now all I have to do is glue & clamp a couple of strips of wood to the rear of the CP to bring the rear up to the same height as the rest of the CP.


Cheers.

[kop]

True to form with most of this project, I remembered that I have to somehow cool the CP enclosure AFTER finalising the shape of the new enclosure.  Now that I'm cramming the same amount of stuff into a smaller area, cooling becomes more important.

This is what I came up with.  I'm using 2x 92mm square x 25mm CPU fans.
 

2x 92mm holes cut into the sides of the CP.



I'm attaching these 2 9mm pieces of MDF to the sides.  The part you see routed out will act as an air vent.



Here it is fixed into the sides & trimmed.



Here are the 2 outer covers for the CP with sections routed out to form the other side of the air vent.



I've applied some bondo with my finger to seal the MDF ready to paint.



Painted & dry.



The sides attached.



Here's the final result. 



I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out considering I forgot all about the fans when initially redesigning my CP.  The slots are 10mm wide and this design keeps the fans out of the way inside the CP.  Should be enough to keep the enclosure cool, and doesn't add too much bulk to the overall shape.

[Nacimroc]

 

Those fan inlets are fantastic. I always think leaving open holes with grilles looks crude, but I can see how this can be used on our 'amateur' cabs aswell.  Are you planning to router a chamfer on the edges of the CP or leave them sharp ?

[kop]

Those fan inlets are fantastic. I always think leaving open holes with grilles looks crude, but I can see how this can be used on our 'amateur' cabs aswell.  Are you planning to router a chamfer on the edges of the CP or leave them sharp ?

Thanks for the kind words. 

Don't really have a problem with fan grilles, as long as they're not in direct view when looking at the front of the cab, or the grilles actually compliment the look of the cab.  This design above just seemed the best mix between maximum internal space & minimum external size.  I can also assure you that judging by the amount of bondo I've used to fix mistakes over the journey, this classes me as an A class amateur. (There is nothing that this stuff can't fix )

I will router the edges of the CP with a 1/4" rounding over bit.



I was bored today & feeling a little under the weather to actually work on the cab, so I decided to just loosely piece the cab together with the new base minus the CP. I took a few pics.

[gryhnd]

Twiggy!

(ya, that's even before my time)

Looks awesome man!

[Mr.Ian]

Awesome work, Original Idea. 

Love watching this thread

  Happy Xmas

[BurgerKingDiamond]

a sit down version with vertical screen would be awesome for shmups

[matsadona]

Haven't seen this thread before but I have to say I love your work. It will for sure be awesome. Makes me wanna build something again

[dugg8]

Really nice.

[kop]

Thanks guys for all the comments above. 

Getting back ito this project after a terribly lazy period over Christmas & new years.


I've glued two thin strips of MDF to the back of the CP to fill in the gap made by the removal of some of the metal supporting bracket.  I also filled in the 4 holes I had drilled for support bolts. The wooden bracing I have inside the CP will be enough to hold everything together.  It also gives the outside of the CP a cleaner look. 


Also cut out a lid for the CP.


Here's the lid now sitting flush with the edges of the CP, and with a coat of primer.


No bolt holes anymore.


The underneath primed & with the air vents finished.


The CP in its final position, perfectly balanced on 2 chairs.  The existing bolt holes no longer match up since trimming the height of the CP.

[dextercf]

holy mushrooms, thats one special lookin' cab! =D

[mgb]

Thats lookin real good.
I'm not sure if it's been discussed or not, but that base would look real nice with some diamond plate.

[drventure]

Coming along nicely! Glad to see this thread is still going!

[emphatic]

That's a cool looking cab! 

[notroubleclubber]

What happened to this project? I think its awesome and would love to build a slightly smaller version of this for a 22" lcd monitor.
Would it be possible to build this completely out of mdf or some sort of wood?

[kop]

& the seemingly endless journey to completion continues.............................

I've spent the last few months just staring at the cab and nit-picking all the things I'm not happy with.  The CP & enclusore holding the marquee & speakers still seem too big and extend out too far making the cab look bigger than I intended it to.  So i've decided to take a couple of steps backwards & modify the parts of the cab I don't like.  It'll take more time to complete, but I think I'll be happier with the final result this way.

Firstly, the cab sitting assembled for a few months showed up some of my dodgy woodworking skills.  The enclosure holding the LCD warped under the weight of itself plus the LCD panel.  Nothing a few blocks of reinforcing pine can't fix.





While doing this, I also moved the position of the LCD panel enclosure about 1 inch down & 1 inch backwards from its previous spot on the metal frame to bring it closer to the CP & make it sit more flush with the metal frame.

I had to modify the metal frame to accomodate this move.




Also had to accomodate the newly installed pine reinforcing blocks, so i had to cut away a piece of the frame and reinforce that with some extra metal.


Here's the new position of the LCD enclusure.  Photos don't really show up much of a difference.







Moving the position of the CP was just a matter of cutting the frame & drilling some new bolt holes.


The new position of the CP fixed on the frame.





Next thing I'll do is trim about 30mm off the front of the CP enclosure & then redo the entire marquee/speaker enclusure & make it smaller.

[drventure]

Nice work!

I had to modify the metal frame to accommodate this move.

Yeah, it's just that easy!    You, my friend, definitely know your way around a welder. I'd have turned that into a big glob of metal.

I think your positioning works well, and it seems like you've thinned the CP a bit, though that may just be the pics.

Completely off topic, but what were the seats from, in the background? I've been contemplating a driving cab and those look like they'd be perfect.

[Malenko]

Glad to see this project is alive. It still looks great, cant wait to see the finished product.

[kop]

Glad to see this project is alive. It still looks great, cant wait to see the finished product.

Cheers.  Neither can I.  At this rate it'll be around October 2014 

Nice work!

Yeah, it's just that easy!    You, my friend, definitely know your way around a welder. I'd have turned that into a big glob of metal.

I think your positioning works well, and it seems like you've thinned the CP a bit, though that may just be the pics.

Completely off topic, but what were the seats from, in the background? I've been contemplating a driving cab and those look like they'd be perfect.

There were (many) globs of metal.  What the photos don't show are the magic of angle grinding, an average welder's best friend.

Those seats are from a 2001 Impreza WRX.  They're (eventually) getting fitted into my car.  They would make the perfect driving cab seat, they're super supportive. 


Just a few photos showing the 30mm I'm removing from the CP.

[kop]

Finished the trimming of the CP.  Just took plenty of routing & sanding plus a re-coat of primer.


My initial plan was to have a piece of plexi covering my artwork and extending all the way to the edge of the CP.  I've since decided to add a little raised border so the plexi sits level with it.  I hope for it to give the look of a smaller CP without actually making it any smaller.

3mm MDF glued down to form the raised border.




Trimmed with a router & re-primed.


My fantastically artistic plain white artwork. 


I've also puttied up screw holes & re-primed the monitor enclosure after the repair a few posts up.  This now leaves the CP & monitor enclosure done.  Now to redo the top enclosure!

[emphatic]

Excellent! 

[dextercf]

love the white artwork! <3

[wsnyderco]

Excellent! 

I agree I would love to see the finished product, this is exactly what I would like to build for a MAME Cabinet

[drventure]

kop hasn't posted in almost a year. I'd love to see how it turned out too, but it might have died already....

[Yvan256]

kop hasn't posted in almost a year. I'd love to see how it turned out too, but it might have died already....

I'd love to see how it turned out too, MAME on a stick is one of those special cabinets that's unlike anything else out there.

[michelevit]

Where is the update? Would love to see the final product...

[Malenko]

Where is the update? Would love to see the final product...

such a tease!

I saw a new reply in this thread and got super excited

[TopJimmyCooks]

We need an emoticon for thou shalt not bump this thread frivolously.  call it the Ondicon.   

[yotsuya]

OP hasn't logged in since November 6, 2011. Someone might want to shoot him an email instead of making a post.