Quasicade *PICS* COMPLETED (add'l pics soon)

[Xenor]

***COMPLETED***

All,

I am officially no longer lurking.  Since I was a kid I've enjoyed standup "real" arcade games, one of my favorites being XMen.  What sent me over the edge on wanting an dedicated arcade system was the XArcade Tankstick I got from my wife for christmas this past year.  Having already modified it to hold two iL Eurojoysticks in lieu of the not-so-great XArcade sticks which were installed from the manufacturer, you can say that "I've got the bug."

I have decided to build an arcade cabinet.

The requirements from my wifey is that isn't won't be a monstrous cabinet that won't fit through doors and is deep from the wall and also that it be lightweight enough to be able to at least lug it into a different location when needed.  Many of you will frown at this part, but I plan to use the XArcade Tankstick as the CP until I deem it doesn't fit my needs anymore.

The cabinet will not have a marquee in the traditional sense, will utilize 3/4 birch ply, will be slim in depth, feature a 1080p capable 16:9 widescreen monitor, a plexi bezel, use and 2.1 PC speaker system mounted within for audio, and have the ability to drop-in the Tankstick for use as the control panel.  Given that I have some intermediate experience with automotive paints and pinstriping, the cabinet may contain hand painted art or scrollwork.  The cabinet's slim profile, and ability to remove the control panel will allow for a space saving design with is easy to move around.

I plan on utilizing this cabinet to play mostly emulated console games, and mame games, but will also like to play certain PC based games such as Street Fighter IV.  I will use Maximus Arcade as the front end, and have already configured a staging PC with the configurations so that I just need to copy everything to the dedicated PC.  Since I plan on playing certain PC games as well, the PC needs to have decent (certainly not earth shattering) performance, better than that of a basic machine used just for mame emulation.

I've included below, a rendering of preliminary plans of the cabinet in SketchUp:


So far I have purchased the following components:

- XArcade Tankstick

- 24" Viewsonic Widescreen 16:9 Monitor 1920x1080 Native Resolution

- Custom PC
     - Shuttle SA78G2 Barebones
     - Athlon II X3, 2.8 GHZ
     - 2 GB DDR2 800
     - 250 GB HD
     - DVD-DL Writer
     - MSI Nvidia GT240 Video Card w/HDMI out
     - Linksys 802.11N dual-band PCI card

The PC parts should be here monday and I'll get started mocking up the software end of things.  I'll probably be deep into February before I start construction of the cabinet itself.

This will be my first cab, so any tips would be appreciated.  I've got my flame suit on for all the XArcade haters.  Please consider that I'm obviously not going for a traditional cab.

Updated:
Newest Pic of Cab Construction
This is the last picture I took of the cabinet, it has since been finished, front door put on, back panels put on, plexi front bezel, etc.  I will post a newer picture soon and a video of it's use.




PICS ADDED PICS WITH 14% GREY GLASS:





And one pic of a very dusty keyboard tray.

[drventure]

I like it, though it seems like it's a little topheavy with the widescreen, but the open bottom.

Maybe put a coindoor down there or just a door (or maybe a smoked glass door?)

Yeah, you may catch a little flak for the tankstick. Honestly, if you just pop the buttons and sticks out, and put on a nice graphic overlay, that'll go a LONG way to improving the look, even if you leave everything else about the tank stick the same.

Also, if you can structure the CP to fit the form of the tank still, that'll help prevent it from looking like it was just "stuck on".

And why bother making the cp so the tank stick can "drop in" to it? Not sure I follow that. Do you plan on removing it at taking it somewhere on occasion?

In any case, welcome aboard. It's a fun hobby. Before you know it, the wife'll be saying "I don't want to hear about that arcade thingee anymore!" 

[ark_ader]

I like it, though it seems like it's a little topheavy with the widescreen, but the open bottom.

Maybe put a coindoor down there or just a door (or maybe a smoked glass door?)

Yeah, you may catch a little flak for the tankstick. Honestly, if you just pop the buttons and sticks out, and put on a nice graphic overlay, that'll go a LONG way to improving the look, even if you leave everything else about the tank stick the same.

Also, if you can structure the CP to fit the form of the tank still, that'll help prevent it from looking like it was just "stuck on".

And why bother making the cp so the tank stick can "drop in" to it? Not sure I follow that. Do you plan on removing it at taking it somewhere on occasion?

In any case, welcome aboard. It's a fun hobby. Before you know it, the wife'll be saying "I don't want to hear about that arcade thingee anymore!" 

That is just the trick isn't it?  You just cannot pop out the innards and replace them into a nice box with a graphic overlay.  That is what the X arcade stick is already.  I see the OP's reasoning for the shell as I play with my X Arcade all over the house and over at a mates too.  I would just plumb for a GGG eco and a couple of sticks if I was going that route.  No the design is sound and I can see it's practicality.

I have one suggestion though.  I'm kinda rough on the controls, and even though the tank is weighty it still likes to jump around.  I would consider putting some latches on the sides to clamp the CP down to the frame.  I find a rock steady CP is vital for the very high scores. 

Also I would advise on replacing the micro switches with cherry switches as they are quieter. I think Randy at GGG still carries them.

I like the design especially for the wide screen display.  I echo the idea for a coin door, or a place for consoles if you use your X arcade to its fullest.  Would there be enough room for a slim version instead?

I look forward to your progress with this project.   

[DCsegaDH]

Nice design, however I think you should put a coin door in the front or it will look like something is missing.

[Xenor]

I like it, though it seems like it's a little topheavy with the widescreen, but the open bottom.

Agreed.  The rendering of these plans did not include anything in the way of a door or enclosed bottom.  I just hadn't figured out what I'm doing in that area yet, so I didn't draw it.  Just kindof a preliminary quick drawing to get my mind (and yours) working.  Thanks for the input.

And why bother making the cp so the tank stick can "drop in" to it? Not sure I follow that. Do you plan on removing it at taking it somewhere on occasion?

It is likely I will remove the tankstick for use in my home theater, just around the house, or at a friend's home.   The ability to remove the stick also cuts down the cabinet's depth allowing it to fit through standard doors and tighter spots while moving the cabinet about.

Honestly, if you just pop the buttons and sticks out, and put on a nice graphic overlay

That's in the plans also.  I hear it's a real pain to peel that gnarly xarcade graphic off, but I think it would be worth it.  The iL eurosticks I put in it are much nicer than the stockers, and I don't see anything wrong with the buttons at this point, so I'll keep those.  Once I think of a theme for this cab, I'll probably create artwork for it.

I would consider putting some latches on the sides to clamp the CP down to the frame.

I already have had a mechanism in mind to firmly hold the stick.  I don't want to see any straps or anything from the outside, so there may be a "set screw" or simple clamping system on the inside.



Thank you all for your input.  I will get the parts for the PC next week and I'll be mocking up the software.  I've already started development on a theme for Maximus Arcade, and have worked around most of the exiting issues with this frontend and also configured SF4 to run with the XArcade.  I think things will come into shape and my vision will be understood more once building starts.

[Malenko]

I think a door on the front and a coin door stcker would be better. less work and more storage

[Xenor]

I will most likely put a glass door.  I just need to source the door.

[apfelanni]

very modern and basic design . 2 player panel , a good screen and some room for storing the console stuff. thats all it takes. i would skip all the traditional stuff like marquees , sidearts , coindoor etc. most of it doesnt work well on such designs . i have thought of building something similiar to yours but more like a kiddy style sitdown cabinet . i wonder why almost everyone is goin for the upright cabinet style and not considering building a sitdown .

- i wouldnt use a glasfrontdoor instead of a wooden one . it will look like ikeas billyboy and theres no benefit to see the mess in there.
- i will never understand why people using the x-arcade stuff on their cabinets . it really sucks and ruins all.  


i have some kind of modern style arcade ( manufactured in spain ) dumped in my garage for a while .i still dont know what to do with it . its not that bad constructed or ugly , but far to tall in opinion .  haven 't decided to like it or not .  with the naomistyle marquees holder it would be around 2 m total. 




  

[Blanka]

I would consider disassembling the X-arcade. That is not too hard to do, and there is not much to mess up about, and it will improve the looks of the CP. And I don't like the big curves. Keep them smaller, it looks better with a sharp edge design like it is now.

[Xenor]

Thank you for your comments.  

i will never understand why people using the x-arcade stuff on their cabinets . it really sucks and ruins all.  

I will continue to stick with the XArcade Tankstick as the control panel for this project.  Again, the joysticks have been replaced with vastly superior iL Eurojoystick units with stiff springs and I am satisfied with the buttons.  I am very satisfied with the way these joysticks function, and I was admittedly disappointed with the poor responsiveness of the stock xarcade joystick units.  The only item left which differentiates this control panel from a completely homebrewed one is the trackball and the interface.  The fact of the matter is that I don't have time to program an interface, and the trackball on the tankstick works fine for my purposes.  I was aware I would hear from other builders about how much the XArcade stinks, but I just don't see it.  It works now for my purposes, and it's scalable because I can replace parts with improved units as needed, just like a home-made control panel.  So again, I'm sticking with the XArcade unit.

i wouldnt use a glasfrontdoor instead of a wooden one . it will look like ikeas billyboy and theres no benefit to see the mess in there.

I'm not sure what "ikeas billyboy" is, but I agree that nobody wants to see any mess inside the cabinet.  A heavily smoked glass door, or an opaque wooden door will be used per this suggestion.  Also, clutter on the inside of the case will be greatly reduced by a well designed all-in-one PC design using a Shuttle XPC case.  Video will be driven via an HDMI which will also carry an audio signal to the monitor.  Speaker output from the monitor will go to the small 2.1 system I will use for audio.  If this works out, there will be only one wire going from the back of the PC other than the power cable and a USB extension cable (leading to a small 4-port USB hub mounted out of sight behind the control panel, this hub will be used by the keyboard/touchpad combo, xarcade controls and trackball).  Hopefully this will make for a very clean cabinet interior.

I would consider disassembling the X-arcade. That is not too hard to do, and there is not much to mess up about, and it will improve the looks of the CP. And I don't like the big curves. Keep them smaller, it looks better with a sharp edge design like it is now.

I've already taken apart the x-arcade, to tweak a few things and also replace the joysticks with better performing units.  If I were to remove the components and place them into a dedicated panel, I would lose the ability to remove the x-arcade for use in my home theater, friends' homes, or otherwise.  So I'll likely keep it as a "drop in".  Thanks however for the suggestion, it's just not what I'm going for.
I will however consider tightening the radius of the curves in the design.  The drawing is preliminary and I will likely roll edges a bit just for the purposes of making nice t-moulding curves.  I agree that making the control panel "holder" area a little less curvy will fit more into the overall design of the cabinet.


Thank you all for your constructive criticism.  Again, I should get the PC parts this week and will start developing the software end of this cabinet. 

Funny thing, when I ordered all the computer parts I did not even order a keyboard.  Usually I keep a spare lying around, but for this, it seems it would be logical to get a keyboard, USB wired, which had a mouse control mechanism built into the keyboard unit.  Something like a small trackball, touchpad, or something like that.  What are your thoughts about a cost effective and efficient keyboard to use for a cabinet (product links appreciated)?

[bgspot]

Ignore the x-arcade haters. I'm sure the cab will come out nice and since its your first cab i don't see the need to go all out. You can use the experience from this cab to build another should you choose. You don't need a fancy keyboard either since all it should be used for is configuring the software.

[Xenor]

In that case I will try to set everything up using my other computer's DiNovo Edge keyboard, and then just move it back.  If need be I'll pick up a sub $10 keyboard from the local TigerDirect store if I need it further.

I'm also considering switching the front end from Maximus Arcade to Hyperspin instead.  Maximus has a bug in the current version which is causing exiting issues for some interfaces, including the xarcade unit.  I unfortunately have no experience with Hyperspin, so I'll be in the dark setting it up.

[Xenor]

UPDATE:

After having to file a police report because of a grocery store parking lot hit and run (while my wife and I shopped), and spilling an entire glass of red wine on the carpet in my office at home , I got started a little late last night building the PC for the arcade.  I was able to get the PC built very easily once I got started.  The Shuttle GA76G2 barebones was basically prewired and all I needed to plumb was another SATA cable for the optical drive.  Basically just drop in the proc, mem, and video card, and it's up and running.  Easiest PC build I've ever done, and I've done quite a few.

I was able to get Windows 7 installed and all appropriate drivers installed.  So far I think this PC will be overkill in the performance department for what I'll be using it for.  One thing I really like is the fact that I can run one HDMI cable from the PC to the monitor for video and audio.  I also started copying all of the arcade software and roms from my other computer via the network.  That was over 30Gb of data, so I just let that run overnight so I wouldn't have to babysit it.

I also quickly realized that swapping keyboards between my computers temporarily was not going to work, so tonight I'm going to go grab a cheap USB keyboard, which I will use in conjunction with an extra mouse, to start configuring the frontend and emulators.

I haven't started construction on the cabinet, but I am gathering information on what I will need materials-wise. 

[Xenor]

This project is coming along.  I ordered my T-moulding for the cabinet, along with a 1/16 slot cutter bit/arbor.  I'll be using plain jane black T-moulding on this cabinet.  I still have not picked up the wood for this project since I'm still doing a bit of designing.

I also ordered a VESA compatible, super simple, monitor mount from MonoPrice.com to help place the monitor in the right spot.  Along with this, I also purchased a longer HDMI cable, cable ties, and a USB extension cable.  My plan is to keep the interior free from a tangle of PC cables so the PC and the subwoofer are neatly tucked into the lower portion of the cabinet.

Software Update:
I have successfully configured Maximus Arcade with MAME, Nintendo NES, Nintendo SNES, Sega Genesis, and a batch file which runs Street Fighter 4 (using AutoHotKey to launch the game without the need for manual keyboard intervention).  I configured all the controls for each emulator as well as SF4 to utilize the tankstick hardware.

[Xenor]

Finally got started on construction today.  I purchased 1 sheet-3/4 inch birch plywood, 1 sheet-1/2 inch birch ply, 1 sheet-thinner luan ply for backing.

Today I was able to cut the sides out, route the T-molding slot, and mortise for the bottom shelf and luan backing sheet.

Here are some pictures of the sides cut out.




Tomorrow I plan on getting the cabinet partially assembled.  I'm struggling with how to place the glass in front of the monitor.  I don't know the best way to make the glass stay put.  I debated on routing a slot on the inside of the side panels and sliding it in from the top, but this would not work because I would have to cut a notch in the t-molding.  I guess I haven't found a good solution yet.  I plan on ordering dark tinted glass from a company on the internet. 

[saleem]

you dont have a marquee but,you could go with a groove on the top if there is a wooden top,you just slot the top of the glass in there and then rest the glass back and let it drop slightly to the bottom piece of wood.

yes my drawing sux.
 

[RobbyMac]

Smoked glass doors (2 @ roughly 13x15) $60. local glass shop.
They'll recommend tempered with a medium smoke if you need IR remotes signals to make it through. Otherwise you can get darker.

[Xenor]

Progress so far.  I got the cabinet standing today.  Dado cuts for bottom shelf and another shelf cut.  Both shelfs installed.  Frame for front door installed.  Top panel installed.  Speaker panel installed.

[emphatic]

Very nice work!

[Epyx]

@Xenor

Never mind the critics...take a look at the link in my signature to my bartop...I did exactly the same thing in my modular bartop build...even the hooks to hold the X Arcade look similar

Besides you can always build your own CP later if/when you feel like it...you can see that is what I did.

Good luck

[Xenor]

Thanks folks!

Your design is innovative Epyx!  Very interesting how the cabinet can go from bartop to full-on standup.

My cabinet is coming along nicely.  I got the monitor mounted last night, and the back, made out of luan, cut out.  I'm doing a two piece back so I can access the monitor without taking the entire back off.  The monitor fit perfectly between the sides and strips which will hold the glass in place.  I removed the monitor and set it aside for final assembly and paintwork.  Next up is the large door on the front of the cabinet, and the small keyboard tray which will go under the control panel.  The door was cut out, but I don't have the right hinges so it was not mounted.

No pics of this progress yet.  With the monitor not sitting in place, it doesn't look like much was done anyways.  I'll try and snap some when I get the cabinet assembled this weekend.  After that it's all finishing and paintwork.  I'm not looking forward to the paintwork one bit.

[Xenor]

   Cabinet has been completed.   

It is assembled, painted, and all components have been installed and are working.  Bose Companion 3 speakers were added, and I'm using it also as a jukebox, utilizing Windows 7 Media Center to stream XM radio. 

I will post current, high resolution, images and possibly even a youtube video of the cabinet in action.

[Xenor]

I realized that clear plexi will simply not work in front of the monitor.  You can see everything, even with everything being black inside, and you can blatantly see there is a monitor sitting inside.  Also, the plexi that I got from Home Depot has (what I would call) a "grain" to it.  Monitor pixels seem to interact with this vertical grain and produce an odd artifact if you move your head horizontally.  To solve this, I'm getting some #14 Gray 1/4" glass to replace the plexi.   The glass should be delivered on Monday next week.

[Xenor]

PICS ADDED OF TINTED GLASS (top)

I also addressed cooling issues inside the cabinet.  4 92mm fans (2 SilenX 11db intake/bottom, 2 Scythe Slim 100mm exhaust/top) now run to keep the cabinet cool.

[Havok]

Even though I am generally against using an X-Arcade control panel, especially when you're building the rest from scratch, this is actually one of the more tasteful designs that at least fairly well integrates the pre-made panel with your cabinet. All in all, I think it's a great design.

 

[BurgerKingDiamond]

Since you're resistant to getting rid of the X-Arcade, why don't you at least make a custom overlay for it? Or even just a plain black one. That huge X-Arcade logo is so ugly. I think it would be almost as good as a homemade CP if you did that.

[Xenor]

Mr.BurgerKingDiamond et all,
      Great suggestion and, well, I've thought of that, and pursued getting one made...I just can't tell if the textured top to the xarcade unit will come off easily, if I can replace the tmoulding on the edges of the xarcade, or what material to make the overlay out of?   I just don't know this stuff.  I'm also a little concerned about completely dismantling the xarcade because with the rats nest of wires in there I'm not sure I could put it back together.  The most I've done on the inside of it is to replace the poor xarcade joysticks with iL EuroSticks (much MUCH better), and tightened some buttons by hand.  When I think about disconnecting all those wires and keeping them organized to put back....I sorta cringe.

Can anyone give me some advise about putting an overlay on this?  I agree 100% that it will make the look of the cabinet much more thought out.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

I've never opened one up but, you should be able to disconnect the microswitches from the buttons and just keep track of which is which. then remove the buttons and the joystick from the the wood. Then add your finish of choice on the top of the panel. If the texture is messing you up just use the panel as a template and cut/drill your own out of some MDF, then you can just paint/laminate it. Then put it all back together. You shouldn't really need to mess with the wires.

[Epyx]

I just don't know this stuff.  I'm also a little concerned about completely dismantling the xarcade because with the rats nest of wires in there I'm not sure I could put it back together.

It is not that difficult. I did the same for the bartop I linked you earlier...you can see I started with the X Arcade...then replaced it. I replaced it by gutting it and building a new laminated case for it.  I took the opportunity to replace the microswitches and controller card (replaced with IPAC2).  The trackball is USB and the only wires to worry about are for the mouse buttons which are easy...the rest just rewire them. It is a good exercise and will give you the confidence for future CP projects.

Plus we are here to help if you get stuck, msg me anytime I really don't mind if you wanna tackle it.  I have detailed the trackball cutting/routing in pretty good detail.

[Xenor]

Ok, I'll give it a try.   While it's not at the top of the list (my wife is due on May 17th), I might get some time to mess with it.

So, assuming I can get it gutted, and dismount the top from the base, what kind of finish should I put on top?   Paint?  Try peeling off the laminated textured surface (xarcade branded) and replace with another printed laminated overlay?  Vinyl sticker?  It seems like paint, like latex, wouldn't be durable for something that greasy hands are going to be touching all the time.

I will make a solid promise.  Next cabinet I make I will make a true-blue panel, and it will be awesome.

[Epyx]

Ultimately, go with what you prefer...if its the X-Arcade then just stick with it. Just suggesting if you want to go a different route you can get assistance. I would use only plexi or laminate for a CP rather than paint.  Again, that is just my preference as there are definitely nice paint job CPs.

[Xenor]

Epyx,
    Yeah, it works for now so I might just leave it.  If I do anything I think it will be making a new panel from scratch.  The cool part about this "holder" style, is that I can put a larger, homemade control panel with minimal modification, just make the panel and slap it on.

[Epyx]

The cool part about this "holder" style, is that I can put a larger, homemade control panel with minimal modification, just make the panel and slap it on.

Yep, I did exactly the same thing...replaced the X Arcade and just built another with the same depth and slotted it into my holder. Good call!

[Xenor]

Every couple of nights I'm getting it a little more configured.

Right now I'm running Maximus Arcade with MAME, Nintendo, SuperNintendo, SegaGenesis, and a batch file for Street Fighter.  I hadn't set up NES or Sega Genesis to work properly, so I did that last night.  It's even got a custom theme I made for Maximus dubbed "The Ingram Arcade".

I run media center pretty much only for the XM Radio app, and it would be cool to have some kind of Jukebox software that would launch from Maximus to let me play XM and MP3s. 

I think I'll keep it this way until I want to make a control panel proper.  I have have been wanting a spinner!