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Author Topic: Rust finish?  (Read 3166 times)

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Epyx

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Rust finish?
« on: September 10, 2009, 01:52:23 pm »
My current project will have orange sides (Wasteland Cab). I want flirt with giving the sides (or portion of) the appearance of rusted iron.  I have been researching a spray from Rust-Oleum that is called natural rust.

Does anyone have experience with this? I haven't been able to find pictures (large ones) of how it looks.  Or does anyone know any other ways of achieving a rust look? I want it similiar to this:

http://stalker.deepsilver.com/img/Stalker_Box-Special_3D_de.jpg

or this:

http://www.oblivion-lost.de/ger/community/packshots/collect1.jpg

I'm thinking the line between this looking potentially good versus terribad is very thin...
« Last Edit: September 10, 2009, 02:05:23 pm by Epyx »
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SavannahLion

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2009, 01:57:24 am »
Wow, I haven't done rust in yonkers. I did it once on a model and it was a lot harder than I expected to get the look right.

Of course, I was working in something like 1/24th scale and I was self taught so it made life hell for me.  :banghead:

The technique I went with was called a "wash". I mixed rust colored paints with a thinner (not actual paint thinner, a clear paint designed specifically to thin paint without destroying the coating properties). Then I dry brushed the "Rust" wherever I wanted rust to appear on the model. I eventually lost patience and made a mess of things.  :hissy: Hey, give me a break, I was like 10 or something.

On a full scale you have a couple of options. If it's never to be touched, powders work well. It's either a powder in a jar that you brush on or a stick that you rub on. Either way gives you control on how much "rust" is applied. The jar powder sometimes can't be clear coated, the stick usually can. Places like Michaels would have it. Scale model stores would have it too, like scale railroad.

Paint works, mix and match the colors. Don't stick with one color. Use at least two, sometimes three depending on the "metal" you want to simulate. Theater props sometimes use this technique because it's so quick and easy. If you can find a place that sells paint, they would have rust colored paints.

Rust has texture too, so you can add it by using powder. Either the rust powder I mention above to ensure color consistency. What I saw used talc (I don't recall if it was real talc or corn starch) to get the texture. Take care though, you don't want a soupy mess. Scale modeling stores and theater stores. Talc can be bought anywhere. Experiment.

For a project that size, you can go with the real deal. Use something like metal stick foil (avoid the non-corrosive materials) in the areas you want rust. Then give it an oxidizing bath to force accelerating the rust process. Never tried it, but I imagine Hydrogen Peroxide might do the trick.

Do a Google search for things like modeling rust, accelerating rust, simulating rust, etc. You are definitely not the first person to ask such a question so it makes sense to look elsewhere. Scale modelers (auto, tank, airplane, railroad), theater, science students. I've seen case modders do it often, but I only recall one that ever documented how it was done. A Half-Life PC that I can't remember where the link is anymore.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2009, 02:01:26 am by SavannahLion »

SavannahLion

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2009, 02:07:35 am »
I think this was it. http://gizmodo.com/009723/blackmesa-half+life-2-case-mod Looks like the original site was just a IP and it's long gone.

IIRC, it had an absolutely beautiful keyboard that went with it. A stunning piece of work.

Epyx

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2009, 01:28:50 pm »
Thanks SavannahLion, appreciate the link and information!

Wow what a nice looking case mod...
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drventure

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2009, 02:22:25 pm »
I think you're probably right about the line between good and bad.

But I think this is an awesome concept.

One thing to consider is adding more "texture" to the sides, some cross pieces, some fake "access hatches", radioactive warning stickers that are beat up, etc.

Done right, that could really look good.

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2009, 01:56:46 am »
radioactive warning stickers that are beat up, etc.

Forgot to mention this.

One thing to keep in mind is that rust likes to "creep" under paint and flake the paint or give it an orange peel look. You can easily accomplish flaking paint by hopping down to your artsie and craftsie store or school supply and pick up a jar of rubber cement. Yeah, the same kind that that future drug addict sniffed in elementary school. Put your rust coat on first where you want the rust to appear. No need to spray (brushing might be better to give it texture but makes the next step more difficult) the entire thing, but the "rust" layer can be used as a primer if so desired. Ensure the paint is fully cured. Now brush on the rubber cement kind of thick (don't skimp, trust me). Let the cement cure enough where it's not wet (overnight is fine) then spray on your colors. You can try brushing or rolling on the paint but I've never tried it that way, I imagine you might lift up the rubber cement prematurely. Let the paint cure. Now, use your fingernail or a pencil eraser and try to break the top coat right where you brushed on the rubber cement. If it's thick enough and the paint has cured enough, the paint should just crack right through and you should be able to peel it right up. If you have trouble, use an X-acto blade to just break the surface to peel that off. You can leave some areas bubbled over or some paint flaking to get that look.

I tried this on a 1/24 car to get a crumpled body panel with a bare metal look. It worked fine, but looked like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- at such a small scale. Dry brushing got me a more realistic look at 1/24. But on a full 1/1 scale, I think the same technique should work just fine. Experiment on a piece of scrap wood. Paint it just how you would on the cab and see how it looks.

edit: just thought of an idea to make it easier to remove the over coat. Before the rubber cement cures, but when it's tacky enough, place something to act as a pull ring. A bent paper clip, a thumb tack, a piece of string, something to break the paint from underneath. It would never work on scale models (too small, what would one use? A staple?) it would definitely work on a much larger surface.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2009, 02:05:32 am by SavannahLion »

Epyx

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2009, 03:24:55 am »
Great tips and when I get to this stage I will do as you suggest with some spare wood. Ill let you know how I make out  :cheers:
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dafelandry

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Epyx

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2009, 02:13:24 pm »
Thanks dafelandry...some great links!
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drventure

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2009, 11:41:03 am »
Just saw this on a different thread.

http://frankencade.blogspot.com/

Looks like he got a pretty good rust finish going (and grease drips etc).

Might be worth an email to him to see what he used.

Epyx

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Re: Rust finish?
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2009, 02:30:06 pm »
Ya that looks great. Was for the Wasteland cab which is on hold until the Aliens cab is done. Thanks for the link though!
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