Author Topic: Console Joysticks in the Works. - NEW PHOTOS!! UPDATED 2/14/09! (Read 25089 times)

Gatsu · « **Reply #40 on:** September 21, 2008, 04:27:52 pm »

Haven't made any progress the past few days. Been taking a break over the weekend. But I'll be back on it hardcore Monday afternoon once I get out of work.

I think I just wanted to chill out with my girlfriend and relax.

Also....after I get a few of these sticks done, Im gonna make a new project announcement.

Seems I have no patience and I cannot wait till next summer to get a cabinet built.

Gatsu · « **Reply #41 on:** September 23, 2008, 10:33:04 pm »

Well got the first customers box assembled, the top and bottom plexi pieces cut out and drilled. Just gotta sand the case and primer it tomorrow. Then sand lightly.....reprimer. let it sit overnight.

Then probably 2-3 coats of black. then a final coat of blue along the edges. Mount the PCB, place the art and plexi, add buttons & joystick, final enclosure. Final test....then mail that ---smurfette--- off.

Should be done by Friday Im hoping.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #42 on:** September 24, 2008, 09:47:01 am »

Make sure you give the paint a few days to cure before you install the stick and buttons. I didn't one time and had to start over with the paint.

TTFN

Kaytrim

Gatsu · « **Reply #43 on:** September 24, 2008, 10:10:22 am »

oh yeah. Im gonna make sure it sits for a good 2 days at least once I apply the last coat. Gonna sand a bit between coats so that last one will be nice and smooth.

the nice thing about the stick I had to repaint, it doesnt have to be perfect since its gonna have Silent Hill art on it.

Gatsu · « **Reply #44 on:** September 25, 2008, 10:44:23 pm »

FINISHED!!!!!! Well...with the prototype one anyways....lol.

These are just quicky photos. I'm gonna rig up a nice backdrop with some real lights to get some better photos.

Nothing like a great sense of accomplishment.

It works on the PSone, Ps2 and PC(with adapter of course).

The wiring is a little sloppy...but hey its a prototype. Sort of a "hey...this wasn't so bad!". lol.

From this one stick I learned alot. Bondo is your friend. Always double check your connections. Cut the plexi BEFORE you assemble the case. Sand....alot.
Theres alot more....but Im not gonna say it all.

I DEFINITELY need to find an easier way to mount the PCB. With as little room as their is in the case, I need to figure a way to glue it down or something....the tiny screws I found are unruly and just pull right out. No grip whatsoever.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #45 on:** September 26, 2008, 11:53:38 am »

Quote from: Gatsu on September 25, 2008, 10:44:23 pm

I DEFINITELY need to find an easier way to mount the PCB. With as little room as their is in the case, I need to figure a way to glue it down or something....the tiny screws I found are unruly and just pull right out. No grip whatsoever.

Two words "Hot Glue"

Gatsu · « **Reply #46 on:** September 26, 2008, 12:44:24 pm »

ok. I thought that might work, but when I tried it, it didn't hold for crap. I'll give it another try on the next stick.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #47 on:** September 26, 2008, 03:39:49 pm »

It might be the paint that caused the hot glue to not hold. I don't paint the inside of my cases so it holds just fine. You could scrape away a small area of the paint and then use the hot glue. Also put a good sized glob and have the board ready to press into the glue as soon as you remove the glue gun. Just hold it in place for about 30 seconds to a minute so the glue has a chance to cool.

Gatsu · « **Reply #48 on:** September 26, 2008, 04:29:28 pm »

ah ok. I'll probably have to leave a section unpainted then.

thanks for the input. I'll probably make the next box a non-plexi bottom so I can get the board to stick easier.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #49 on:** September 26, 2008, 04:33:28 pm »

What controller did you hack for that?

Gatsu · « **Reply #50 on:** September 27, 2008, 12:18:03 pm »

I think it was a turbo controller for the PSOne, just before dual-shock came out.

AwesomeAlbert · « **Reply #51 on:** September 27, 2008, 05:41:19 pm »

are there any plans online for this stick or similar? i want to make one and dont just want to do a square box.

Gatsu · « **Reply #52 on:** September 27, 2008, 07:12:22 pm »

Quote from: AwesomeAlbert on September 27, 2008, 05:41:19 pm

are there any plans online for this stick or similar? i want to make one and dont just want to do a square box.

what do you mean? are there different styles Im working on? If you mean that, no I've got 2 styles right now. Ones like the one in the photos thats more classic looking, then theres one that smaller and more suited for just fighting games.

AwesomeAlbert · « **Reply #53 on:** September 28, 2008, 11:58:58 pm »

i mean is there anyplace to download single player desktop control panel plans. you know like jakobud has plans for arcades. But one for one player fighter panels.

Gatsu · « **Reply #54 on:** September 29, 2008, 01:41:06 am »

There are a few sets of plans out there, but I decided to draw up my own based on some of the sticks I've seen from Timoe in this forum and from a few others I've seen around.

Here's a design I got from Byrdo a while back when he had it up on his website. (attached)

Hope its what you are looking for.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #55 on:** September 29, 2008, 09:15:09 am »

One other thing to keep in mind is that Happ parts need more room then the Sanwa or Seimitsu parts. If you plan on using Happ parts you will need to adjust these plans accordingly. For this style of case I would recommend using the Japanese parts as they take less effort to move then the Happ parts. The weight of cases this size are rather light and would move around if you get too rambunctious. Of course if you go with the Happ parts the increase in size would about double the weight. If you need more weight you could add some iron or led to the inside of the case.

Gatsu · « **Reply #56 on:** September 29, 2008, 09:23:57 am »

thats a good point Kaytrim. I forgot to mention that.

Also, I'm almost finished with the artwork you needed man. Should have it finished by later tonight.

Gatsu · « **Reply #57 on:** October 01, 2008, 01:02:31 am »

here's a few nicer pics of the joystick, showing it off a little better. (last one is a tad blurry....dunno why.

Its for sale if anyone is interested.

Gatsu · « **Reply #58 on:** October 03, 2008, 09:55:31 am »

Got a few new pics of a new stick WIP. This one's gonna be black & blue with Mass Effect artwork. Another Happ stick.

Buttons are blue & joystick will be black.

Its in the final painting stages now and should be ready to assemble by tomorrow if not tonight. Krylon dries real quick. But I'll make sure to let it sit overnight once I put the clear coat on it.

Gatsu · « **Reply #59 on:** October 06, 2008, 10:32:09 am »

Here be some updated pics of the newly painted stick.

I'll have nicer photos up once I finish the stick 100%. Just gotta place the joystick, mount the pcb and run the wires.

Lemme know what you guys think.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #60 on:** October 06, 2008, 10:47:12 am »

Nice build, though the art doesn't give me the warm fuzzies like ol' Pyramid Head.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #61 on:** October 06, 2008, 10:49:52 am »

Looking good.

Kaytrim

Gatsu · « **Reply #62 on:** October 06, 2008, 11:31:06 am »

I'm tempted to put t-molding around the edges of these sticks.

Think that'll add another bit of awesome to them?

Glad you guys like them. I'm learning for sure. This one I had to repaint twice. But I haven't found the right grit to really get the saw marks off the edges of the board.

Suggestions?

I'll post more pics tonight once I get the wiring all done and the joystick set.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #63 on:** October 06, 2008, 11:39:02 am »

Here is the perfect tool for cleaning up edges. Stanley Block Plane, properly sharpened and set for a fine cut will leave you a clean edge in 2-3 swipes. Just put your board in a bench vice and you're good to go. Search for 'Scary Sharp' and you'll find all kinds of information on an inexpensive way to keep the blade razor sharp.

Another plane to look at is the bench style planes. For what you are doing a #4 or #5 would be a good choice. With some practice you can get a nice flat square edge in less then a minute.

TTFN
Kaytrim

Gatsu · « **Reply #64 on:** October 06, 2008, 12:16:39 pm »

ah ok. I believe my dad's got a wood planer laying around somewhere. I just gotta find it and adjust it.

Thanks for the info. Another thing learned!

Kaytrim · « **Reply #65 on:** October 06, 2008, 05:47:17 pm »

Just came across this page. Make sure you have some time set aside there is more then a ton of info in the links there. You could also join me over on the WoodNet Forums. Plenty of guys giving useful advice just like this site.

TTFN

Kaytrim

Gatsu · « **Reply #66 on:** October 07, 2008, 01:45:05 pm »

Oh sweet! thanks for those links. I'll look into them tonight when I get home.

Update:
I royally ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- up the wiring on this stick. Lol....I think I might have a short or a solder bridge or something. When I have everything wired to the right grounds & whatnot, none of the buttons work, and the only directions that work are diagonals. But I noticed that if Im in the 360 dashboard, the selection highlight jumps to the bottom of the page real fast. So I pulled the hot plug off the open pin on the cherry switch and set it on the closed. Then all the buttons and directions work except down.

So I've gotta go through and check all the connections again tonight. Hopefully it'll be an easy fix.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #67 on:** October 07, 2008, 01:59:10 pm »

It depends on the pad you are using. Not all 360 pads are common ground. There are links about halfway down on this page that should help you finish the connections on your pad.

TTFN

Kaytrim

Gatsu · « **Reply #68 on:** October 12, 2008, 01:16:39 pm »

UPDATE!

Finished the stick! So customer #1 will be very very pleased Im sure. The 360 controller I used (madcatz) did have a common ground. Was just that the triggers needed a resistor added in order to make them work properly. So an easy fix.

But here are the pics.

My buddy Chainer (not on this site) helped me with the wiring. He's a licensed electrical engineer...so he knows more about that then I do. lol.

This stick is all Happ competition parts.

Got another stick in the works that I'll post about soon. Just gotta get the buttons and joystick ordered.

- Gats

Gatsu · « **Reply #69 on:** December 08, 2008, 11:07:50 pm »

Got another stick order. They are trickling in, which is fine by me because with X-mas and work I don't have time for a huge influx of orders.

But here be a few WIP photos of the latest. Lemme know what you all think.

yeah...my routering is a little fugly. And I'm not really sure how to setup a template for future use. This stick has had a few challenges come with it, but thankfully with a little thought I've been able to use a few work arounds and get a good result. But this has also shown me that sometimes its better to just buy what you need to begin with instead of trying to get too creative with tools. lol.

Just gotta sand and cleanup the edges, fill in some of the seams....then its paint, wire and assemble!

- Gat

traycerb · « **Reply #70 on:** December 16, 2008, 02:18:47 pm »

gatsu loving your builds and your updates. a few questions about the teardrop/bat-top joystick on your last WIP:

It's a Sanwa JLF, right? (based less on my observation skills and more on the an empty box in the background

) Any thoughts on using the JLF vs the JLW for the teardrop? I know the JLF needs an adaptor for the teardrop, and the JLW has a wider shaft, but any other surprises?

Also who do you use for a vendor for Sanwa (and Happ for that matter) in the US?

I'm on the fence between Sanwa (which is what everyone recommends for 2d fighting) vs. Happ Competition (which I grew up on). May end up having to build one of each

Gatsu · « **Reply #71 on:** December 16, 2008, 02:55:10 pm »

Yep its a Sanwa JLF with the bat top adapter.

As for the JLW...I don't know. I honestly haven't had any experience with it. But I will say I prefer Happ sticks to the Sanwa. They feel alot more solid and fluid.

I use Lizard Lick Amusements for my Sanwa stuff. Great guy to deal with and keeps the communication going. I'll be getting all my Sanwa stuff from him.

As for Happ. I get from divemaster here on the arcade controls forum. He's got a thread in the Buy/Sell/Trade section that has a list of prices. He's good to deal with. Just tell him what you want, he'll send you a quote, then you just paypal him the amount and the quote number and you're good.

After building happ and sanwa sticks now....both have advantages and disadvantages.
Happ is bigger and takes up more space, but in turn lasts a lot longer and feels more solid.
Sanwa parts allow you to build much smaller cases, but they feel very light, clicky and just don't feel as solid as the Happ stuff.

For a set of I think 8 Happ buttons and a joystick, cost around $20.
Same quantity with Sanwa, you're looking over $50.00 easy. But Sanwa has alot more color options and styles than Happ.

So its a trade off.

Me personally, I prefer Happ because I have big hands and want my arcade stick to handle some abuse. It feels more responsive, doesn't need any adapters for smooth rotation, and is more cost effective. But alot of people like Sanwa. I can kind of see why...but like you I grew up on Happ. Go with what you like and are familiar with.

Mix and match if you want as well. I plan on doing that with my personal joystick. I'm gonna use a Happ stick, but Sanwa buttons. That way I can build a more shallow case.

Lemme know if you need any help or ideas. I'll be glad to help any way I can.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #72 on:** December 16, 2008, 02:56:10 pm »

Hey, Gatsu, what value resistor did you use on that MadCatz pad, and where exactly did you put it (between which pins)?

Gatsu · « **Reply #73 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:03:11 pm »

oh hell....I'll have to take that stick apart and look. I don't even remember.

I'll get that info for you when I get home tonight.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #74 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:06:00 pm »

Thanks! I'm currently sitting on 2 screwy madcatz controllers with the same type issues.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #75 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:12:41 pm »

Quote from: HarumaN on December 16, 2008, 02:56:10 pm

Hey, Gatsu, what value resistor did you use on that MadCatz pad, and where exactly did you put it (between which pins)?

I think this is what you are looking for. I don't remember the value but the color codes are easy to read in the picture.

TTFN

Michael

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #76 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:23:12 pm »

Is that Green, Violet, Black, Brown, Gold? If so, it's a 5.7K ohm resistor, which makes sense...

Thanks!

Kaytrim · « **Reply #77 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:24:54 pm »

The first stripe is yellow not green.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #78 on:** December 16, 2008, 03:29:24 pm »

Yellow? Really?

In that case, 4.7 Kohm, not 5.7

Kaytrim · « **Reply #79 on:** December 16, 2008, 04:00:59 pm »

The best way to figure out the resistor size is to take a multimeter and measure the resistance between the two outer legs of the pot. Divide that number in half and use the resistor closest to the result. Also there is a tone of information on hacking pads over on SlagCoin.com


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news