Console Joysticks in the Works. - NEW PHOTOS!! UPDATED 2/14/09!

[Gatsu]

This has been an on and off project for a good 6-8 months now. And since I've moved in with my girlfriend I've had more free time on the weekends to get some stuff done. So I figured I'd take this project back up again.

I'm working on three sticks right now. 1 for PS2, and the other 2 for Xbox 360 (wired).

The first stick is gonna be painted to look rusty and muck covered (like Silent Hill). And will hopefully match the artwork.

The 2nd and 3rd sticks will be Street Fighter IV oriented. Probably gonna end up making a stick for every character in SF IV. So about 12 total.

Here be some starter pics.








The dimensions are 4"H x 10.75"L x 8.25"W.

[dmworking247]

And since I've moved in with my girlfriend I've had more free time on the weekends to get some stuff done.

Thats how it starts... until you're addicted to this 'freedom' you think you have, then you'll get married, then suddenly, it all dissapears again

heheheh

[Gatsu]

actually a funny story....we can't get married. She'd lose her social security. So FREEDOOOOOOM!!! hehehe.

[Gatsu]

alright a little update.

got the 3 boxes drilled and assembled. that was a chore, but they look good. I'll post pics tomorrow before I start to prime and paint.

which brings me to my little story of idiocy.

When I purchased the board Im using to build all the sticks.....I intended on buying MDF. Sadly though, I fudged that all up and got particle board by mistake. Didn't notice till I had all the pieces cut out and assembled.

So....the question. How do I paint particle board? I know it swells when anything wet hits it...so....I take it I need to seal it.

I need input. Pretty please.

thanks in advance.

[Gatsu]

Had some unexpected car issues yesterday so I didn't get a chance to go take pictures like I wanted to.

Still gotta figure out what I need to do to paint particle board though.

Any suggestions on what I could use to seal the wood so its easier to paint?

[javeryh]

I think you are going to have to cover it in spackle or wood putty and then sand it down before priming and painting.  If you haven't glued everything together you could look into laminating the exposed sides...  I don't know how else you could do it...

I like the shape of the box and the artwork looks cool too.   

[Gatsu]

Thanks man. Yeah I like the shape too...it just simple and to the point. Hopefully I can do the artwork justice in the paint job. lol.

Ok....so now the big question.

Since I've got cutting these pieces pretty much down to a fine art now....would it be faster for me to just buy some MDF and recut the pieces using the existing 3 as measuring templates?

Or take the time and try to save these 3? I can use the particle board for something else...so thats not a big loss....I just hate losing a whole weekend to get this far and lost it all pretty much.

[punxrus]

I would just cover it with wood putty or even bondo. I know a lot of professional window installers who use bondo to smooth out wood work. I like the style...I'm just wondering where you go the artwork from...I love Silent Hill!

[Gatsu]

Glad you dig the artwork. Its all from the Silent Hill film. I went looking for some hi-res wallpapers and then took them apart and made a collage in Photoshop.

I'll give the bondo a try then. Depends on the cost of bondo to cover a stick vs. the cost of a sheet of MDF.

Would I need to bondo around the inside of the button holes as well? or just the areas that are gonna be painted?

[Gatsu]

Gonna keep the particle board sticks around as tester sticks....so those'll be for my little mame console once I get more buttons and whatnot ordered.
But I went to home depot and picked up some 3/4" MDF board.

Got the 1st stick cut out, the joystick area routered, and the whole case assembled. All thats left is cutting out the plexi, painting the box and beginning to mount everything in the case.

This one will be for PS1/PS2 (or PC is you have a usb adapter).

I'll post more once I get some work done today.





- Gats

[Daniel B.]

much better with the MDF. You made the right choice!

[Gatsu]

Now I'm stuck in a waiting period....since my pop doesn't have the tools necessary to cut down plexi-glass....he's gotta borrow it from his job.

Any tips or things I need to worry about when I cut the plexi down? and punch the button/joystick holes out?

Also...what size bolts do I need to use to mount the Happ competition stick in there?

As for the size of the PCB's in the case, the PS2 boards fit just right. No problem. The 360 PCB however....might be an issue. So I might need to make the 360 sticks bigger so I have more room for the guts & wiring. I just prefer the feel of Happ parts over Sanwa & Seimitsu.

[Daniel B.]

The plexi tools he's bringing how are likely going to be something to "score" the plastic and then "snap it" like glass.  The problem with this, is that sometimes, no matter how deep you score the plastic, it may not break exactly like you want it. Forstner bit will be the best, but holesaw can be used. Make sure you put the plastic on top of some wood when drilling, keep the edges nice and clean.

As for the happ comps, it's best just to take the stick with you to the hardware store and look for yourself. I'd take the entire thing down there for the best end result.

I wish I had more advice, but thats it.

[Ginsu Victim]

I would've made that Silent Hill one out of rusty metal, with rusted mesh over the CPO. 

Make everyone have a tetenus shot before playing...

[Gatsu]

I would've made that Silent Hill one out of rusty metal, with rusted mesh over the CPO. 

Make everyone have a tetenus shot before playing...

thats precisely how Im gonna paint it....to make it look like rusty metal. I was gonna get some fencing and screw it to a few spots.....but too many sharp edges. Dont need a lawsuit. 

[massive88]

Now I'm stuck in a waiting period....since my pop doesn't have the tools necessary to cut down plexi-glass....he's gotta borrow it from his job.

Any tips or things I need to worry about when I cut the plexi down? and punch the button/joystick holes out?

When I made mine, I tried first to use the hole saw, and it worked just fine for the first few, then I cracked the plexi on the fourth.

So its possible with a hole saw imo.  Practice a few first if you can.

What I ended up doing, is using a 3/4" spade drill bit with barely any pressure.  It was the perfect size for my joy stick, and on the buttons, it gave my a pilot hole to then stick my router pattern bit into.  Then the router works wonders with plexi.

As for cutting it down to size, I scored the hell out of it on both sides, and broke it to get it down to about 1/4" of the final size.  Then it was the pattern bit again to knock it down to exact dimensions.

[Gatsu]

anything you'd recommend to smooth out the edges if need be?

Thanks for all the input. I can't wait to get one finished.

[Gatsu]

Just printed out my overlay artwork. And I must say....damn its pretty. I can't wait to slap them on the sticks once they are done.

I just gotta trim 2 of the corners off and then cut out the button/joystick holes.

Got them done on 11"x17" kromekote gloss. 

[massive88]

anything you'd recommend to smooth out the edges if need be?

Thanks for all the input. I can't wait to get one finished.

I didnt need any smoothing, as my only exposed edges were done with the router, and all those came out real well.  If I eventually put my washer below the surface, Id need to smooth the edges of the joystick hole.  For that Id probably try a file as I saw suggested in some other thread.  However again, Id test it on a spare piece of plexi first.

[Gatsu]

Got a quick stupid question.

The buttons I've worked with most are the Happ competition buttons. But I found these and wondered if they would be comparable to the Sanwa buttons...

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/601200xx.htm

I have no idea how well these work. Any ideas?

[Gatsu]

Gonna start priming the 2 cases I've got assembled already (was working on the wiring yesterday). I'll post some photos when I get home from working on that.

Gotta cut out the parts and assemble the case for my 1st customer (w00t w00t). He wants a Xbox 360 stick with Happ parts and Mass Effect artwork on it. Gonna have 8 face buttons and 3 along the back piece (guide, start and back).

Still have the plexi to cut out and mount after the painting is done, and waiting on my button order to come in. Also gotta hit up Home Depot for some quick disconnects. Ran out last night.


One other update (non-joystick in nature). I'm starting to work on some plans for a sit down Street Fighter IV style cabinet that Im gonna build next summer. Why? because then Street Fighter IV will be readily available for PC and the home consoles....though Im gonna try my hardest to get the real guts to a SFIV machine.....under the current $6,000 price point of course. 

The case will have a 28" LCD HDTV (720p, HDMI & component in), 2 players and a surround sound system so this badboy will shake the house. This cabinet will also be used as my general gaming monitor for my Xbox 360 and PS2.

- Gats

[Kaytrim]

Got a quick stupid question.

The buttons I've worked with most are the Happ competition buttons. But I found these and wondered if they would be comparable to the Sanwa buttons...

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/601200xx.htm

I have no idea how well these work. Any ideas?

Those definitely look like 24mm Sanwa buttons.

[Gatsu]

I guess I'll order a set for the next stick and see how they work. Next thing you know Happ will have its own Sanwa style joystick.


I guess I need to ask....for all those out there that built/are building there own sticks....what parts do you prefer and which last longer?

[Gatsu]

just a little update. got the first sheet of plexi cut....my god what a mess.  I ruined probably a 3rd of the sheet. Thankfully I came up with a way to cut the plexi without shattering it.

Basically set the plexi down on 2 thick pieces of board and clamp it down real good. The boards should be about a 1/4th of an inch apart creating straight edge groove for the router to travel down. Use a bit with a ball bearing so it only cuts the plexi and not the wood. Easy breezy.

Once the piece is cut out, fit it to your joystick top, clamp it, then router the edges so you've got it nice and flush. If need be, you can use a dremel tool with a grinding tip to clean up the edge.

To drill out the buttons, had to drill a small pilot hole for the larger bit to go into. Otherwise it would try to grab too quickly and end up shattering the plexi. After the hole is driled out, lightly grind with the dremel and its good to go.

The key....do it slowly.

Thankfully it only took me ruining 1 small piece to get it right.

I'll post pictures tonight....I forgot to take the camera with me last night.

[Timoe]

The first stick I ever made looks a lot like the one in your signature/logo.   

^ I just realized how "asshat" that sounded.  Glad you got the plexi worked out. 

[Gatsu]

yah...I hope you don't mind if I borrowed the design. If you'd like I can give you credit on the graphic or link to your thread in the SRK forum. Just let me know. Or if you preferred I didn't use it thats cool too. Just lemme know.

I used the photo as a base in photoshop and redrew the case and joystick and just used solid blacks & grays to fill it in.

[Gatsu]

Yet another update.

Plexi-glass cutting SUCCESS!!!! I managed to get the plexi cut with this really awesome router bit my dad borrowed from his work. It even has a ball bearing on the bottom of the bit so it only cuts the plexi, not the wood template.

Its so sweet I'm gonna have to pick one up today from Lowe's.

So the plexi crisis is over. I can cut that down without warrant.

Issue #2...paint. I got a case painted mostly. But hit a snag. The top and sides had finished drying, so I turned it over and started painting the bottom. Let it sit for around 2 hours. Gave it the tacky test...and it seemed dry. So I turned it over and set it down somewhere else so I could start painting the 2nd case. Came back to it later and picked it up....it took the board I set it down ontop of with it. So....definitely not dry. So since thats ruined, I've gotta sand that back down and repaint the bottom. 

So...I'm gonna take a break for a day or two. Think I inhaled too much MDF dust because my sinuses are acting up something fierce today. Gotta wear the mask more.

Sadly no pictures because my retarded ass forgot the camera again at home before I went back to my rents house. 

I'll get back to it on Thursday and hopefully will have something to show for it.

[Kaytrim]

Issue #2...paint. I got a case painted mostly. But hit a snag. The top and sides had finished drying, so I turned it over and started painting the bottom. Let it sit for around 2 hours. Gave it the tacky test...and it seemed dry. So I turned it over and set it down somewhere else so I could start painting the 2nd case. Came back to it later and picked it up....it took the board I set it down ontop of with it. So....definitely not dry. So since thats ruined, I've gotta sand that back down and repaint the bottom. 

I rigged up a few painting jigs that make it easy to paint all sides of the case at once.  The wire is the stuff used in suspended ceilings and are ground to points in the ends to bite into the MDF.  You could also drill small holes that fit the wires for a more secure mounting.  The base is just a piece of MDF with some rubber feet.  I then made a lazy susan to spin the case while painting.  Once you are done spraying you can set the jig aside to dry for how ever long you need.  I usually wait a day at least. 

You have to remember that paint and even any finish has two stages, drying and curing.  The drying phase can be a little as 15-20 minutes to as much as 2-3 hours.  Drying is the evaporation of the solvent that allows the finish to flow onto the workpiece.  The curing phase usually is a few days.  During this time the finish gets hard.  This is a chemical reaction within the finish.  During the curing phase the finish can still be damaged easily as you discovered.

So...I'm gonna take a break for a day or two. Think I inhaled too much MDF dust because my sinuses are acting up something fierce today. Gotta wear the mask more.

The paper dust masks will not protect you against MDF dust.  The dust is too fine and the paper masks don't seal around your face.  Get a respirator with replaceable filter cartridges, they sell for under $40 at HD or Lowes.  The cartridges usually last around 8 hours of breathing time.  Put the respirator in a ziplock bag when not in use.  The nice thing about the respirators is that you can get cartridges for dust and others for paint.  Here is the one that I use...  Lowes link.  It costs more than the others but your health is worth much more.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

Wow Kaytrim - that's awesome.  You're like a ninja or something with all those secret skills.   

[Kaytrim]

When you do something on a production scale you find ways to make the process smoother and quicker.  As they say necessity is the mother of invention.

[Gatsu]

thanks for the input Kaytrim.

I'll be working on a painting setup this weekend then. So the painting process takes the longest. Several days per box.

[Kaytrim]

So the painting process takes the longest. Several days per box.

Yep,  especially if you want the mirror finish.  You need to let the final finish cure for a few days before you start the wet sanding process.  Applying the finish is not that bad.  Once one coat is dry you can apply another coat.  I usually go with 2-3 coats of primer followed with 3-4 coats of color followed with 2-6 coats of clear.  If you are going to wet sand then you will want more coats of the clear.  Of course the more coats you apply the longer it will take to cure.  I normally let the color coats cure before applying the clear coats.  I also lightly sand with a 200-400 grit paper to take out any dust nibs left in the color coat.  Then let the clear coat cure before going any further with assembly or wet sanding.  You can really mess up a finish installing the controls unless the finish is cured.

One thing that I have done to protect the finish while installing the controls is build an open box out of 2x4s and add some foam weather strip along the top.  This gives the joystick a nice stable base to work from for the wiring.  It also protects the finish and Plexiglas from scratches during this phase of construction.

Hope that helps and doesn't lead to information overload.

TTFN

[Gatsu]

no such thing as too much knowledge. 

[pinballwizard79]

Gatsu is your avatar from the South Korean movie "old Boy"?

[Gatsu]

Yep it is. One of my favorite movies.

[pinballwizard79]

So a guy "likes" his sister, he gets mad & makes a guy "like" his very own daughter.....then he, the bad guy "dislikes" himself.

That's a favorite movie of yours?

 

Anyway, I liked Twin Peaks so who am I to judge?

[Ginsu Victim]

So a guy "likes" his sister, he gets mad & makes a guy "like" his very own daughter.....then he, the bad guy "dislikes" himself.

How about marking those spoilers? (I've seen it, but you would've just ruined it for me if I hadn't)

[Gatsu]

I'm a fan of the weirder movies. Big fan of alot of Korean flicks as well. The Old Boy movie is part of the "Revenge Trilogy".

the other two flicks are "Sympathy for Mr. Vengeance" and "Lady Vengeance". All 3 very good movies.

[pinballwizard79]

Sorry Ginsu but think of the positives.....maybe my post saved at least one person from watching that ridiculous movie.

The only time in my entire life I was ever pissed at myself for watching a movie was after finishing "Old Boy".

Now I know the drill "Western film is so passe, you just don't appreciate art....blah blah blah".

Whatev, don't get mad guys.....I still like you all,

I just had to be opinionated for a second, you guys can make fun of me for a little bit now 

[pinballwizard79]

youtube search

Clerks 2 LOTR Vs. Star Wars scene - good quality

now thats a battle royale!

FYI

I'd post the video but it has some questionable language

[Gatsu]

Haven't made any progress the past few days. Been taking a break over the weekend. But I'll be back on it hardcore Monday afternoon once I get out of work.

I think I just wanted to chill out with my girlfriend and relax.

Also....after I get a few of these sticks done, Im gonna make a new project announcement. 
Seems I have no patience and I cannot wait till next summer to get a cabinet built.

[Gatsu]

Well got the first customers box assembled, the top and bottom plexi pieces cut out and drilled. Just gotta sand the case and  primer it tomorrow. Then sand lightly.....reprimer. let it sit overnight.

Then probably 2-3 coats of black. then a final coat of blue along the edges. Mount the PCB, place the art and plexi, add buttons & joystick, final enclosure. Final test....then mail that ---smurfette--- off.

Should be done by Friday Im hoping.

[Kaytrim]

Make sure you give the paint a few days to cure before you install the stick and buttons.  I didn't one time and had to start over with the paint.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

oh yeah. Im gonna make sure it sits for a good 2 days at least once I apply the last coat. Gonna sand a bit between coats so that last one will be nice and smooth.

the nice thing about the stick I had to repaint, it doesnt have to be perfect since its gonna have Silent Hill art on it.

[Gatsu]

FINISHED!!!!!! Well...with the prototype one anyways....lol.

These are just quicky photos. I'm gonna rig up a nice backdrop with some real lights to get some better photos.







Nothing like a great sense of accomplishment.

It works on the PSone, Ps2 and PC(with adapter of course).

The wiring is a little sloppy...but hey its a prototype. Sort of a "hey...this wasn't so bad!". lol.

From this one stick I learned alot. Bondo is your friend. Always double check your connections. Cut the plexi BEFORE you assemble the case. Sand....alot.
Theres alot more....but Im not gonna say it all.

I DEFINITELY need to find an easier way to mount the PCB. With as little room as their is in the case, I need to figure a way to glue it down or something....the tiny screws I found are unruly and just pull right out. No grip whatsoever.

 

[Kaytrim]

I DEFINITELY need to find an easier way to mount the PCB. With as little room as their is in the case, I need to figure a way to glue it down or something....the tiny screws I found are unruly and just pull right out. No grip whatsoever.

 

Two words  "Hot Glue"

[Gatsu]

ok. I thought that might work, but when I tried it, it didn't hold for crap. I'll give it another try on the next stick.

[Kaytrim]

It might be the paint that caused the hot glue to not hold.  I don't paint the inside of my cases so it holds just fine.  You could scrape away a small area of the paint and then use the hot glue.  Also put a good sized glob and have the board ready to press into the glue as soon as you remove the glue gun.  Just hold it in place for about 30 seconds to a minute so the glue has a chance to cool.

[Gatsu]

ah ok. I'll probably have to leave a section unpainted then.

thanks for the input. I'll probably make the next box a non-plexi bottom so I can get the board to stick easier.

[HaRuMaN]

What controller did you hack for that?

[Gatsu]

I think it was a turbo controller for the PSOne, just before dual-shock came out.

[AwesomeAlbert]

are there any plans online for this stick or similar? i want to make one and dont just want to do a square box.

[Gatsu]

are there any plans online for this stick or similar? i want to make one and dont just want to do a square box.

what do you mean? are there different styles Im working on? If you mean that, no I've got 2 styles right now. Ones like the one in the photos thats more classic looking, then theres one that smaller and more suited for just fighting games.

[AwesomeAlbert]

i mean is there anyplace to download single player desktop control panel plans. you know like jakobud has plans for arcades. But one for one player fighter panels.

[Gatsu]

There are a few sets of plans out there, but I decided to draw up my own based on some of the sticks I've seen from Timoe in this forum and from a few others I've seen around.

Here's a design I got from Byrdo a while back when he had it up on his website. (attached)

Hope its what you are looking for.

[Kaytrim]

One other thing to keep in mind is that Happ parts need more room then the Sanwa or Seimitsu parts.  If you plan on using Happ parts you will need to adjust these plans accordingly.  For this style of case I would recommend using the Japanese parts as they take less effort to move then the Happ parts.  The weight of cases this size are rather light and would move around if you get too rambunctious.  Of course if you go with the Happ parts the increase in size would about double the weight.  If you need more weight you could add some iron or led to the inside of the case.

[Gatsu]

thats a good point Kaytrim. I forgot to mention that.

Also, I'm almost finished with the artwork you needed man. Should have it finished by later tonight.

[Gatsu]

here's a few nicer pics of the joystick, showing it off a little better. (last one is a tad blurry....dunno why.

Its for sale if anyone is interested.

[Gatsu]

Got a few new pics of a new stick WIP. This one's gonna be black & blue with Mass Effect artwork. Another Happ stick.







Buttons are blue & joystick will be black.

Its in the final painting stages now and should be ready to assemble by tomorrow if not tonight. Krylon dries real quick. But I'll make sure to let it sit overnight once I put the clear coat on it.

[Gatsu]

Here be some updated pics of the newly painted stick.

I'll have nicer photos up once I finish the stick 100%.  Just gotta place the joystick, mount the pcb and run the wires.







Lemme know what you guys think.

[Ginsu Victim]

Nice build, though the art doesn't give me the warm fuzzies like ol' Pyramid Head.

[Kaytrim]

Looking good.

Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

I'm tempted to put t-molding around the edges of these sticks.

Think that'll add another bit of awesome to them?

Glad you guys like them. I'm learning for sure. This one I had to repaint twice. But I haven't found the right grit to really get the saw marks off the edges of the board.

Suggestions?

I'll post more pics tonight once I get the wiring all done and the joystick set.

[Kaytrim]

Here is the perfect tool for cleaning up edges.  Stanley Block Plane, properly sharpened and set for a fine cut will leave you a clean edge in 2-3 swipes.  Just put your board in a bench vice and you're good to go.  Search for 'Scary Sharp' and you'll find all kinds of information on an inexpensive way to keep the blade razor sharp.

Another plane to look at is the bench style planes.  For what you are doing a #4 or #5 would be a good choice.  With some practice you can get a nice flat square edge in less then a minute.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

ah ok. I believe my dad's got a wood planer laying around somewhere. I just gotta find it and adjust it.

Thanks for the info. Another thing learned! 

[Kaytrim]

Just came across this page.  Make sure you have some time set aside there is more then a ton of info in the links there.  You could also join me over on the WoodNet Forums.  Plenty of guys giving useful advice just like this site.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

Oh sweet! thanks for those links. I'll look into them tonight when I get home.

Update:
I royally ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- up the wiring on this stick. Lol....I think I might have a short or a solder bridge or something. When I have everything wired to the right grounds & whatnot, none of the buttons work, and the only directions that work are diagonals. But I noticed that if Im in the 360 dashboard, the selection highlight jumps to the bottom of the page real fast. So I pulled the hot plug off the open pin on the cherry switch and set it on the closed. Then all the buttons and directions work except down.

So I've gotta go through and check all the connections again tonight. Hopefully it'll be an easy fix.

[Kaytrim]

It depends on the pad you are using.  Not all 360 pads are common ground.  There are links about halfway down on this page that should help you finish the connections on your pad.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

UPDATE!

Finished the stick! So customer #1 will be very very pleased Im sure. The 360 controller I used (madcatz) did have a common ground. Was just that the triggers needed a resistor added in order to make them work properly. So an easy fix.

But here are the pics.







My buddy Chainer (not on this site) helped me with the wiring. He's a licensed electrical engineer...so he knows more about that then I do. lol.

This stick is all Happ competition parts.

Got another stick in the works that I'll post about soon. Just gotta get the buttons and joystick ordered.

- Gats

[Gatsu]

Got another stick order. They are trickling in, which is fine by me because with X-mas and work I don't have time for a huge influx of orders.

But here be a few WIP photos of the latest. Lemme know what you all think.















yeah...my routering is a little fugly. And I'm not really sure how to setup a template for future use. This stick has had a few challenges come with it, but thankfully with a little thought I've been able to use a few work arounds and get a good result. But this has also shown me that sometimes its better to just buy what you need to begin with instead of trying to get too creative with tools. lol.

Just gotta sand and cleanup the edges, fill in some of the seams....then its paint, wire and assemble! 

- Gat

[traycerb]

gatsu loving your builds and your updates.  a few questions about the teardrop/bat-top joystick on your last WIP:

It's a Sanwa JLF, right? (based less on my observation skills and more on the an empty box in the background  )  Any thoughts on using the JLF vs the JLW for the teardrop?  I know the JLF needs an adaptor for the teardrop, and the JLW has a wider shaft, but any other surprises?

Also who do you use for a vendor for Sanwa (and Happ for that matter) in the US?

I'm on the fence between Sanwa (which is what everyone recommends for 2d fighting) vs. Happ Competition (which I grew up on).  May end up having to build one of each 

[Gatsu]

Yep its a Sanwa JLF with the bat top adapter.

As for the JLW...I don't know. I honestly haven't had any experience with it. But I will say I prefer Happ sticks to the Sanwa. They feel alot more solid and fluid.

I use Lizard Lick Amusements for my Sanwa stuff. Great guy to deal with and keeps the communication going. I'll be getting all my Sanwa stuff from him.

As for Happ. I get from divemaster here on the arcade controls forum. He's got a thread in the Buy/Sell/Trade section that has a list of prices. He's good to deal with. Just tell him what you want, he'll send you a quote, then you just paypal him the amount and the quote number and you're good.

After building happ and sanwa sticks now....both have advantages and disadvantages.
Happ is bigger and takes up more space, but in turn lasts a lot longer and feels more solid.
Sanwa parts allow you to build much smaller cases, but they feel very light, clicky and just don't feel as solid as the Happ stuff.

For a set of I think 8 Happ buttons and a joystick, cost around $20.
Same quantity with Sanwa, you're looking over $50.00 easy. But Sanwa has alot more color options and styles than Happ.

So its a trade off.

Me personally, I prefer Happ because I have big hands and want my arcade stick to handle some abuse. It feels more responsive, doesn't need any adapters for smooth rotation, and is more cost effective. But alot of people like Sanwa. I can kind of see why...but like you I grew up on Happ. Go with what you like and are familiar with.

Mix and match if you want as well. I plan on doing that with my personal joystick. I'm gonna use a Happ stick, but Sanwa buttons. That way I can build a more shallow case.

Lemme know if you need any help or ideas. I'll be glad to help any way I can.

[HaRuMaN]

Hey, Gatsu, what value resistor did you use on that MadCatz pad, and where exactly did you put it (between which pins)?

[Gatsu]

oh hell....I'll have to take that stick apart and look. I don't even remember.

I'll get that info for you when I get home tonight.

[HaRuMaN]

Thanks!  I'm currently sitting on 2 screwy madcatz controllers with the same type issues. 

[Kaytrim]

Hey, Gatsu, what value resistor did you use on that MadCatz pad, and where exactly did you put it (between which pins)?

I think this is what you are looking for.  I don't remember the value but the color codes are easy to read in the picture.



TTFN
Michael

[HaRuMaN]

Is that Green, Violet, Black, Brown, Gold?  If so, it's a 5.7K ohm resistor, which makes sense...

Thanks!

[Kaytrim]

The first stripe is yellow not green.

[HaRuMaN]

Yellow?  Really?

In that case, 4.7 Kohm, not 5.7

[Kaytrim]

The best way to figure out the resistor size is to take a multimeter and measure the resistance between the two outer legs of the pot.  Divide that number in half and use the resistor closest to the result.  Also there is a tone of information on hacking pads over on SlagCoin.com

[HaRuMaN]

Yeah, the problem I ran into is that the MadCatz trigger pots are cheaply constructed, and I broke a couple of them setting them to neutral...   

[Gatsu]

I used 4.7k Ohm resistors.

I did the same thing with the first controller. Its a pain in the neck. So I just stuck to using the 4 face buttons and the 2 bumpers, leaving the triggers alone.

[Gatsu]

Another brief update.

I had the stick painted....looking pretty and perfect. Then I said, well some clear coat enamel will protect the paint job.

The paintjob had set for 24 hours so it was good to go right. So I lightly dust the top of the stick with the enamel. I let it sit for 30 or so minutes....come back to it...and the enamel had begun to web up and pull the paint straight off of the wood.

3 days worth of painting ruined.

What can I do to avoid this show stopper in the future? I've got the case sanded down to the wood again and am gonna start painting again this evening. But when it comes to finishing it up, should I forget the enamel and use something else?
I want a nice gloss finish.

[traycerb]

man gatsu u've got the worst luck.  I don't know much about painting, but one of the apartment design blogs i read has people doing diy furniture painting and they try high gloss finishes now and then.  see http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/jan-jumpstart-2008-east/east-18-operation-loo-042191.  look at the last pic.  super high gloss, but to get it, the guy waited a week(!) between paint and polyurethane, and then put on 4-5(!) coats of polyurethane.  alternatively this guy http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/chicago/shelving-storage/tylers-ikea-traby-credenza-hack-047487 used 7-8 coats of high gloss, but it's more of a factory-smooth finish than a high gloss.  sorry don't know much more.  maybe people on  a furniture-building site would be more knowledgable

one more question: what is the distance between the bottom-of-the-bat-top to the top-of-the-CP?  What way of mounting would maximize the amount of shaft available?  Does it match the length of the shaft on your Happ builds?

[Gatsu]

I'll get you an exact measurement this evening. But basically I routered a square just deep enough on the top of the case, so the JLF mounting plate would be flush. But there was plenty of room for movement.

the trickiest parts to work with were the buttons. If you get the screw in kind, the wood will require alot of extra routering so you can actually screw the mounting pieces in properly.

thanks for the links. I'll give that a try. Just letting it sit a few days once its painted, then going with the enamel. I think I figured out my problem though. I didn't use the same brand...which I didn't notice till just now. I used all Krylon paint....but Rustoleum enamel. Thats probably why.

So I've gotta make sure to keep all the same brand paints around from now on. Yet another trip to the hard ware store.

[Gatsu]

Joystick #3 finished! Took a little too long to put this one together....but that was because of all the frigging paint issues.
But its done and looking nice. And it works like butter.

All Sanwa parts, artwork provided by customer. Hacked madcatz 360 controller.

Im sure the customer will enjoy this one.







Lemme know what you all think.

[Ginsu Victim]

Joystick #3 finished!
Lemme know what you all think.

Beautiful as always! Great work!

[Gatsu]

glad you dig it. I learned alot from this stick....mainly in the painting department. lol.

I'm gonna try Rustoleum brand paint on the next stick and see if I have better results. Krylon is good....but I had alot of issues with it this go round.

[Kaytrim]

Glad to see you got this one finished.  However next time you might want to paint the bottom panel too.

TTFN

[Gatsu]

nah. I figured since it is the bottom and its rarely looked at, leaving that panel its original color was ok. I also didn't wanna risk another painting mishap and another day or two wasted on fixing something.

Got another stick Im working on now. Its a donation stick for an older gamer site called 2old2play.com. I'll post pics of it once I get more done.

I've got the case assembled and ready, just gotta paint it and order the stick & buttons.

[Gatsu]

got another order. just came in last night for another Godhand style.

I'll post updates and photos as things progress.

[Gatsu]

Alright. Heres a bit of an update.

Got all the cases glued together, just gotta finish routering and drilling all the button holes for the Godhand and new Overlord style stick (thanks to somunny's SSFIITurbo HD stick idea), and prep them to paint.

I've got some polyurethane spray I'm gonna try on some test pieces first to see how well that works to seal the MDF for painting. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what else I can do. Those edges are whats killing me.

Anyway. Here he some photos:




















- Gat

[Kaytrim]

Looks like you are getting this build thing down to a science.   Keep it up buddy and you'll be taking orders like I am.  (see my blog)

TTFN
Michael

[Gatsu]

looking really good there kaytrim. my stick blogs on wordpress as well, I like there functionality and ease of use.

Thank you for the kind words. But I don't think I'd ever get to the level you and Timoe (Norris Sticks) are.  I just don't have the proper tools or funds to work on those more expensive woods. I can barely squeeze out what I can from the tools I've got and MDF. lol. Where I live inhibits me alot as well. I can't even get the right kind of laminate from the local Lowes or Home Depot. 

I'm just trying to do what I can and try new things as I can afford them. Experimentation can cost substantially if you're not careful.

[Kaytrim]

Keep in mind that Tim and I have been doing this for over a year each.  I read on another forum that He and his wife sold a total of 52 cases in November and December.  Both of us have systems in place with our tools that make cutting and shaping the cases more of a cookie cutter process.  With time and experience you could do the same.

TTFN
Michael

[Gatsu]

I've decided that after I finish up these last orders, I'm gonna hang my hat up for a bit and take a break from doing custom orders. Have had some crazy things go on around home, and I feel I need to spend more time with my fiance and get some other things in order...as well as work on my own arcade cabinet.

I've probably spent more than a 40 hour work week on orders in the past 2 weeks...and thats more than I really feel I need to right now. This is something I'm just doing as a side hobby for fun. A learning experience and offering a little something that others will want.

So for now...I'm not gonna be taking any custom orders. I will however continue to build sticks and post them up in the FOR SALE section of my site as I build them. I'll probably put a few up every other week or so as I decide to work on them.

I pretty much want to put myself in a place where I can take my time and not stress about a deadline. I mess up more when I'm under the gun and I can't afford to let that go in a product that someone else is paying for.

Anyway. Once I'm done with the orders I have in, I'm taking a break.

-Gat

[Kaytrim]

Welcome to my world buddy.    That is why I took a break myself last year.  I have family things and house things that needed to be done.  I still have to deal with pressures from work, taxes and home.  Building sticks though is my escape from the real world pressures.  That is why I will be offering some blank cases soon as well as my artistic series.  Though I'll still take on a custom order or two.  I just get a charge out of responses that I get during and after a custom build is complete.

TTFN
Michael

[Gatsu]

yeah. I still enjoy the building process. I just really think that I should work in my own time frame....keep things fun and stress-free.

I'll take orders again probably in a couple of weeks. But I wanna finish my fighter cab and get some things sorted first.

[Gatsu]

FINALLY got my slot cutting bit in from Ace Tools for the t-molding.

So I can finally finish up these sticks. I will have some pic this weekend to show off hopefully 4 fully-completed sticks.

I've tested a couple of different spray paints....and I've gotta say that the Krylon fusion has somewhat impressed me. I still prime the pieces, but it doesn't run like regular krylon, though it needs more to make an even coat.

Finally got my paint process fine-tuned too.

1.) Sand the crap out of the case. 220 grit or lower. I use 100 for edges.
2.) clean case of dust/dirt...etc...
3.) Kilz primer that S.O.B. let sit for 24 hours. Even, solid coats.
4.) Krylon that S.O.B., do about 3-4 light/even coats. 1 coat every 7-8 minutes. Let sit for 24 hours.
5.) Ever so lightly....I mean uber lightly sand the case with 320 grit to give the enamel a tooth.
6.) 2 light/even coats of the clear coat enamel. Let sit for 24 hours (to handle)
7.) Wax that puppy.

Not the only way to paint a case....but effective and the result is pretty.

Can't wait to show these bad-boys off when I'm done.

[Gatsu]

Need some input for parts distributors.

I mostly get my sanwa parts from Chad at Lizard-Lick, or Happ stuff from waveryder here on the forums.

Occasionally the Lizard-Lick crew run out of a part I need. I looked at the Akihabara shop and the costs are just WAY too high. Are there any other distributors for Sanwa parts in the U.S.?

[opt2not]

Hey Gatsu, how much does your sticks approximately weigh?

[Gatsu]

hmmm...I don't usually weigh them. If I remember correctly though....the godhand style one is about 8lbs. Kinda got some booty to it.  But its alot of solid pieces of MDF...so thats why.

I'll have to pickup a scale this weekend.

[Kaytrim]

Need some input for parts distributors.

I mostly get my sanwa parts from Chad at Lizard-Lick, or Happ stuff from waveryder here on the forums.

Occasionally the Lizard-Lick crew run out of a part I need. I looked at the Akihabara shop and the costs are just WAY too high. Are there any other distributors for Sanwa parts in the U.S.?

Chad is the only and best supplier of the Sanwa and Seimitsu parts in the US.  This month Japan is on vacation and they are not working as hard as they usually do.  Chad stocked up in December but he still got hammered with orders.  More than likely the cause is Street Fighter IV coming out in a few weeks.  He told me last night that he will have over 70,000 hits on his site for this month.

On your painting schedule it would be better if you waited 3-4 days between paint phases.  This lets the paint cure so it can better handle the sanding.  Any finish goes through two phases.  The first phase is drying, this is when the solvent evaporates.  This can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours.  The second phase is curing, this takes anywhere from 2 or three days to a month.  These times are dependent on weather conditions, the finish in question and how thick is the coat. 

Timoe says it takes him 3 months to build and finish one of his cases.  Part of that is because he takes the finish through a wet sanding for a mirror like showroom finish.  You have to wait for the finish to fully cure before you try to do any wet sanding.  Just to be on the safe side he waits a full month after the final coat of finish is applied before starting any wet sanding.

TTFN
Michael

[Gatsu]

Im nowhere near patient enough to wait that long for it to fully cure.

[Gatsu]

1 down. 3 more to go.







Sanwa JLF stick, Seimitsu blacks. Sexy beast if you ask me.

[dmworking247]

Wow, where are you finding (or are you drawing) this Street Fighter artwork?

[Gatsu]

I usually look for a bunch of reference photos, hires scans and whatnot...then I dump it all into photoshop and editing the crap out of them. Mix and mash them all together till I get something good.

Its probably my favorite part of the whole process.

[Gatsu]

Oh looky! Here's a couple more! Just one more to go.









The blue one is a donation stick I built for an art auction to support the site 2old2play.com a website for gamers 25 and up.

[Kaytrim]

  I am really liking the SFIV artwork you are posting buddy.  Keep up the good work.

Michael

[Gatsu]

those are the last customer sticks. So all the orders are done. Last one I've got has just gotta be wired up and its ready to put up for sale.

Its gonna be a Happ 8-face button layout. Larger than the others. Probably 16" wide, about 10 3/4" long, 2 3/4" deep and it'll have a USB passthrough.

If you need any artwork Kaytrim, lemme know.

[Gatsu]

drum roll please...

here's my personal SFIV stick. Inspired by somunny's SSFIITurbo HD stick he posted a few weeks ago. He was kind enough to share the dimensions and process with me so I took those and put one of my own together. I think it turned out pretty well.






Happ parts, competition joystick with standard concave buttons. USB passthrough on the back side for easier cable management. I might add a cable storage compartment for it along the bottom somehow. Not sure yet....maybe on the next stick.

Anyway. What do you guys think? It might go on sale in a few weeks. But I definitely wanna use it for SFIV's launch next week.

- Gat

[Sosetsuken]

Gatsu that stick is absolutely gorgeous! 

I'd take that over the Official SF4 TE Stick anyday (But have a Ball not bat )

Great use of artwork, nice Button arrangement, and for some reason i love that theres no dustcover over joystick that allows you to see the perspex!!

Very nice work mate!

[Gatsu]

Gatsu that stick is absolutely gorgeous! 

I'd take that over the Official SF4 TE Stick anyday (But have a Ball not bat )

Great use of artwork, nice Button arrangement, and for some reason i love that theres no dustcover over joystick that allows you to see the perspex!!

Very nice work mate!

Thanks alot for the kind words. This was oddly enough the simplest build out of all the other sticks I've done. And oddly I think this one turned out the best of all of them.

I've gotta find a thinner wood for the top piece though...the plexi sits just above the t-molding so I had to use a few screws to hold it down. But overall I'm pretty happy with it.

[Kaytrim]

I've gotta find a thinner wood for the top piece though...the plexi sits just above the t-molding so I had to use a few screws to hold it down. But overall I'm pretty happy with it.

Look for 5/8" plywood or MDF instead of 3/4".  Use a 3/4" thick piece to setup your t-slot cutter and route from the bottom side of the panel.  That will setup the slot so the Plexiglas is covered by the t-molding.

Michael 

[Gatsu]

thanks for the input. My lowes & home depot are bare bones with their wood selection. After Im done with my arcade cab, I'll go in and get some 5/8" mdf if they have it.

[Gatsu]

Alright boys & girls. I'm open for orders again.

I've been getting a lot of emails requesting a notice for when I start taking orders again. Its nice to see interest...so I figured I'd better jump on it before they move on to someone else.

Just gonna be working on them over the weekends now. Not during the week. And I'll only take new orders at the end of each month for the following months spots. This is so I don't run out of steam, and can spend time with my fiance when I get home from work during the week.

I've got 6 spots open for March. So shoot me a PM if you want a stick. Or check out the website for details.

http://godhandcustoms.wordpress.com

Next weekend I'm gonna cut up the rest of my current MDF board and build a few of each style stick so its a little less work once orders start coming again. And it'll give me a chance to take my time and focus on one at a time instead 3 or 4.

Now...if I could just somehow make time to work on my arcade cabinet too. lol. I'll probably split the weekend up. First half of Saturday will work on orders, get the cases glued & puttied and set to dry overnight. Then work on the cabinet. Same thing on Sunday.

That should work out alright I think. What do you guys think?

[Gatsu]

Ok..I've got a parts question.

This is for anyone whose dealt with these kinds of buttons before.

Are these the ones that will allow me to cut out a section of the artwork and fit them inside the button??

Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton
http://lizardlick.com/images/for_sale/pushbuttons/ps14kn_b.jpg

If not...which ones will allow this?

thanks.

[Kaytrim]

Those will work quite nicely.  So will ps_14_gn 30mm and ps_14_dn 24mm with the clear plunger.

Michael

[Gatsu]

Cool thanks man.

Is it intuitive enough to do it? or is there a weird trick to it?

[Kaytrim]

Cool thanks man.

Is it intuitive enough to do it? or is there a weird trick to it?

It is rather easy but instead of me trying to talk you through it there is a real step by step over on SRK. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132705

[Gatsu]

sweet. thats much easier than I thought it would be. thanks man