Author Topic: Gorf restoration (Read 125477 times)

Spyridon · « **Reply #160 on:** August 20, 2008, 10:48:10 pm »

Reassembly continues...

...and the best advice I can give anyone that is doing a complete restore is
1. Bag and Tag all the parts into individual bags
2. Take lots of pictures before you disassemble

Level42 · « **Reply #161 on:** August 25, 2008, 06:56:54 pm »

Yep completely agreed on the bags and pictures.

Great work, I really should look into a spray-gun etc.

Spyridon · « **Reply #162 on:** August 25, 2008, 10:32:47 pm »

Boy there are a lot of wires in this game. Today I finished putting all the wires back in place.

The on/off switch had been bypassed by the previous owner (not sure why) so I hooked that back up.

Here are all of the wires hooked back up in the base of the cab (nice and clean compared to what it looked like before I started)

Stapled the serial number tags and warning tag back in place

Back back doors didn't have working locks and were just screwed into place. I added new locks:

Picked up a set of 3 keyed alike locks from Bob Roberts. Worked out perfect as I needed one long and two short ones. Now one key will open both of the back doors as well as the coin door.

Next I put the monitor back in:

Finally, the marquee, bezel, and control panel are put into place:

All that's left is side art and t-molding. Also need to fire it up and see if it works!

WunderCade · « **Reply #163 on:** August 25, 2008, 11:53:06 pm »

Man that looks minty...and it's not even done...lol. Great job Spyridon! Can't wait to see the end result with the game screen on.

Spyridon · « **Reply #164 on:** August 27, 2008, 05:23:15 pm »

Installed the t-molding today.

The bad news is that I fired it up and...nothing

The lights in both marquees turn on but I don't get anything on the screen. It does not play blind, but I do hear a slight beeping coming from the speakers. I checked the voltages and they are good. Not sure what the problem is at this point.

SirPeale · « **Reply #165 on:** August 28, 2008, 07:11:39 am »

Double check your connections.

Check your fuses.

Does your monitor come on?

Spyridon · « **Reply #166 on:** August 28, 2008, 10:47:34 am »

Quote from: Peale on August 28, 2008, 07:11:39 am

Double check your connections.

Did that. Everything appears to be correct

Quote

Check your fuses.

I haven't checked these yet, but I think all the fuses are before the power board. I have correct volatages coming off the board. Am I missing a fuse somewhere?

Quote

Does your monitor come on?

Yes, but has a black screen. When you turn off the game, it flashes white as it goes out.

Encryptor · « **Reply #167 on:** September 06, 2008, 04:51:13 pm »

Any update on this one?

Encryptor

Spyridon · « **Reply #168 on:** September 07, 2008, 12:25:02 pm »

Quote from: Encryptor on September 06, 2008, 04:51:13 pm

Any update on this one?

Yeah, I have a working borad set arriving this week that I will use to help diagnose the problems with the current one. Just that and the side art left to go.

Level42 · « **Reply #169 on:** September 07, 2008, 12:32:27 pm »

The RAM boards are supposedly to fail often on Gorf. There is a test-rom image available to test the RAMs:

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tech/gorftest.zip

Spyridon · « **Reply #170 on:** September 09, 2008, 10:12:44 pm »

She Lives!!!!!!

I swaped in the new board set I got and she fired right up. I'll start swapping boards when I get time later to try and figure out what happened with the original boards.

Just needs the side art to really finish her off!

This board set was pulled from a cocktail, so one issue I have to figure out is how to stop the picture from flipping on player 2. I don't see a dip switch for cocktail mode.

MaximRecoil · « **Reply #171 on:** September 10, 2008, 01:24:25 am »

Quote from: Level42 on August 06, 2008, 04:08:38 pm

If you'll be in this hobby, you're going to need a good soldering device. Although it doesn't need to be a metcal.

No one thinks they need a Metcal until they try one.

Here's a post I came across on a newsgroup a while ago which sums it up pretty well:

Quote

I couldn't agree more. Metcal irons are miraculous. If you haven't tried
one, you haven't been enjoying soldering. It took me months to talk my
new employer into trying one. In less time than that, we now have them all
over the company. One assembler called it a 'dream iron'. Yes, they're
*that* good. Those of you who work with your soldering station switched on
most or all of the day really owe it to yourselves to try one. They're
expensive, but well worth the money if you solder a good deal. For fine
pitch work, they're not merely a luxury -- once you try one you'll be hooked.

I finally got a Metcal of my own, the same model I used to use when I worked at the PCB factory.

Anyway, Spyridon, did you get your soldering sorted out? As others pointed out, you had some goose-pooping going on there. A low wattage iron combined with being new to soldering tends to give results like that. You want your through-hole fillets to be shiny and smooth, and be shaped like a Hershey's Kiss. Heat the pad and post from one side by pressing your iron down against both simultaneously, and then feed the solder wire (use flux core 60/40, or better yet, 63/37; ~.025" diameter works well for most PCB soldering) in from the other side, pressing it into the pad and post in a steady motion (not into the iron; the heated pad and post will melt the solder); then pull the iron and solder wire away at the same time when you have enough solder in there.

Also, until ThisOldGame gets the authentic style of coin door plates made, have you thought about applying the ArcadeShop sticker to the top of the original plate, and then installing the plate with original-style rivets to the coin door? That would at least retain the look of an actual riveted metal plate rather than just a sticker.

Spyridon · « **Reply #172 on:** September 10, 2008, 09:48:47 am »

Quote from: MaximRecoil on September 10, 2008, 01:24:25 am

Anyway, Spyridon, did you get your soldering sorted out? As others pointed out, you had some goose-pooping going on there. A low wattage iron combined with being new to soldering tends to give results like that. You want your through-hole fillets to be shiny and smooth, and be shaped like a Hershey's Kiss. Heat the pad and post from one side by pressing your iron down against both simultaneously, and then feed the solder wire (use flux core 60/40, or better yet, 63/37; ~.025" diameter works well for most PCB soldering) in from the other side, pressing it into the pad and post in a steady motion (not into the iron; the heated pad and post will melt the solder); then pull the iron and solder wire away at the same time when you have enough solder in there.

I did pick up the Weller soldering station discussed earlier in this thread. Good advice on the soldering tips above. I've got three monitors sitting waiting for cap kits to be done, so I'll be using the new iron and your advice soon. I think I just need more practice.

Quote

Also, until ThisOldGame gets the authentic style of coin door plates made, have you thought about applying the ArcadeShop sticker to the top of the original plate, and then installing the plate with original-style rivets to the coin door? That would at least retain the look of an actual riveted metal plate rather than just a sticker.

That's a good idea, unfortunately, the original plate was destroyed in the removal process. I wasn't trying to be gentle with it and I didn't think about applying the sticker over it. Hopefully the metal replacement plates will be done soon (yeah, I've been saying that for a while).

ChadTower · « **Reply #173 on:** September 10, 2008, 09:53:48 am »

That looks really good.

Spyridon · « **Reply #174 on:** September 14, 2008, 03:59:04 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on September 09, 2008, 10:12:44 pm

This board set was pulled from a cocktail, so one issue I have to figure out is how to stop the picture from flipping on player 2. I don't see a dip switch for cocktail mode.

Okay, I figured out how to switch between cocktail mode and upright mode. There is a jumper on the board that sets this up. If the jumper is in place, then cocktail mode is enabled.

Here you see the cocktail board on the top and the upright on the bottom. JU1 is the culprit

Instead of removing the jumper, I swaped in the board from my original set and it solved the cocktail issue. And now I know that board wasn't the problem in my original set.

I'm also having a problem with the joystick. Once you let go, the ship moved down on its own. I'm going to pull the control panel and clean the optics with a q-tip and alcohol. I may also reflow the solder joints.

Spyridon · « **Reply #175 on:** September 15, 2008, 10:14:15 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on September 14, 2008, 03:59:04 pm

I'm also having a problem with the joystick. Once you let go, the ship moved down on its own. I'm going to pull the control panel and clean the optics with a q-tip and alcohol. I may also reflow the solder joints.

I pulled the control panel and removed the optic board. Using rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, I cleaned off the optic sensors.

On the back side, I also reflowed the solder at the pins for the optics.

Put it back together and it works perfectly!

Now if I can stop playing the game, I'll get around to putting the side art on.

Spyridon · « **Reply #176 on:** September 28, 2008, 05:05:39 pm »

Put the side art on today.

First step was to check the drawing I did months ago when I started this project to find out where the art should line up:

Since this was inkjet art, I didn't want to risk using the wet method on it and went dry. I started by lining up the art in the correct spot and using in masking tape to hold it in place.

I then pulled back the top few inches of backing and applied the art.

Then using a flat object I pressed the art work securly onto the cab. Moving side to side as I slowly pulled the backing away allowed the art to go on without any bubbles.

Repeat for side 2:

Spyridon · « **Reply #177 on:** September 28, 2008, 05:11:00 pm »

...and now...some arcade porn for you to enjoy:

And one last look at before and after:

Time to celebrate the completion of my first full restore.

I'm very very happy with the way it came out. Now I can enjoy playing one of my all time favorites!

WunderCade · « **Reply #178 on:** September 28, 2008, 05:38:53 pm »

Man, you must be stoked....that thing looks minty fresh, like it just came new from the factory. Very nice, I'm speechless.

I guess this now makes you even more confident and excited about your next projects. Freakin amazing looking.

Wade · « **Reply #179 on:** September 28, 2008, 11:06:43 pm »

That's one of the nicest restorations I've seen in a long time. Very, very nice!!

I can't remember the last time I saw a full sized upright Gorf. Never been a favorite game of mine, but one that nice... if I had a chance, I'd take it. It has a very cool cabinet with more artwork than most. Very similar design as Tron with all the extra artwork.

Wade

Level42 · « **Reply #180 on:** September 30, 2008, 03:10:29 am »

This is definitely worth a "Restorey" !

Looks like it just came out of the box. Fabulous job !

Spyridon · « **Reply #181 on:** September 30, 2008, 01:39:35 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on September 30, 2008, 03:10:29 am

This is definitely worth a "Restorey" !

Looks like it just came out of the box. Fabulous job !

Quote from: Wade

That's one of the nicest restorations I've seen in a long time. Very, very nice!!

Thanks for the compliments on the final product.

"Restorey" ... I like that.

Level42 · « **Reply #182 on:** September 30, 2008, 05:20:48 pm »

Yes, I think there should be an award for best restoration here next to the Mamey.

Zeguna · « **Reply #183 on:** September 30, 2008, 10:31:59 pm »

That is so beautiful.

debauche · « **Reply #184 on:** November 30, 2008, 03:26:03 pm »

Where was the sideart from? I got some when I restored my Gorf, and one side does not stick that well so will probably have to buy another set and re-apply.. but cannot find wehre the heck I got it from..

btw, nice job!

Spyridon · « **Reply #185 on:** November 30, 2008, 03:48:23 pm »

Quote from: debauche on November 30, 2008, 03:26:03 pm

Where was the sideart from? I got some when I restored my Gorf, and one side does not stick that well so will probably have to buy another set and re-apply.. but cannot find wehre the heck I got it from..

btw, nice job!

Side art is available at ArcadeOverlays. It's not the correct shade of blue, but the only thing available.

payment_due · « **Reply #186 on:** December 15, 2008, 02:03:54 pm »

Wow, this is an awesome restore thread. Great job man, that thing looks gorgeous.

Spyridon · « **Reply #187 on:** December 16, 2008, 09:47:10 am »

Quote from: payment_due on December 15, 2008, 02:03:54 pm

Wow, this is an awesome restore thread. Great job man, that thing looks gorgeous.

Thanks! It's in the game room and looks good. Of course, it makes some of my other games look bad so I'll have to get them all cleaned up at some time.

dmel75 · « **Reply #188 on:** June 08, 2009, 10:55:46 am »

Quote from: Spyridon on May 30, 2008, 11:22:09 pm

Now to start cleaning these guys up. The transformer really needed a clean up.

After taking lots of pictures to make sure I can get everything back together, I started removing the parts from the board

The board the transformer and fuses were connected to was hand washed.

There were too many wires soldered onto the transformer to remove and put into the dish washer, so I hand cleaned everything with water and a little bit of dish detergent.

Looks much much better (you can actually see the colors of the wires now)

The wire harness and cage go into the dishwasher. No detergent, just the water. I considered putting the PCB's in as well, but I didn't want to go through the trouble of removing the socketed chips.

when it comes out, you can actually see the circuit board in the bottom of the cage. It was still a little wet in this picture, but I took a hair dryer to it to make sure it was completely dry

I can't tell you how nice it is to have your thread to go by!!! I'm beginning my Gorf restore and I'm going to start pulling the wire harness, power supply, PCB, etc out tonight. When you say you "...hand cleaned everything with water and a little bit of dish detergent." You literally scrubbed these parts with water and soap? Seems like that would kill it, everything I've ever known about electronic equipment says NO WATER! =)

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #189 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:11:26 pm »

Daaaaamn dude... I can't believe I've not seen or commented on this restore!... Awesome! You've done a great thing here!

I love it when a restore is really truly that....exactly what you've done... left no stone unturned!

Makes me want to do a Gorf...

Spyridon · « **Reply #190 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:17:27 pm »

Quote from: dmel75 on June 08, 2009, 10:55:46 am

When you say you "...hand cleaned everything with water and a little bit of dish detergent." You literally scrubbed these parts with water and soap? Seems like that would kill it, everything I've ever known about electronic equipment says NO WATER! =)

The water and dish detergent was only used on the dirty wires. I used a damp rag with some degresser to individually clean the wires. None of the components were wet. I did this on the wires that were soldered to other parts that I didn't want to get wet. The cage and wire harness went into the dishwasher with water only.

I thought about putting the board sets in the dishwasher, but didn't want to risk it. Others have had success with that method (but remove and socketed chips first).

Just make sure everything is completely dry before reassembling.

Spyridon · « **Reply #191 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:17:52 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on June 08, 2009, 12:11:26 pm

Daaaaamn dude... I can't believe I've not seen or commented on this restore!... Awesome! You've done a great thing here!

I love it when a restore is really truly that....exactly what you've done... left no stone unturned!

Makes me want to do a Gorf...

Thanks for the compliments!

Foot · « **Reply #192 on:** June 12, 2009, 06:42:33 pm »

Great game, would love to play Gorf on an original cab like this one.

Well done

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #193 on:** June 12, 2009, 06:49:11 pm »

Fantastic looking machine !!
You've done a superb job.

telengard · « **Reply #194 on:** August 04, 2009, 10:41:43 pm »

Wow, this restoration is awesome beyond words. Chocolate covered awesome??

~telengard

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #195 on:** August 07, 2009, 08:39:50 am »

I have so much respect for the time, detail and effort you put into this resto. You have a fantastic looking finished machine that you really deserve to be proud of.

Spyridon · « **Reply #196 on:** August 07, 2009, 09:44:58 am »

Thanks for all the compliments. I'm very pleased with the way this turned out.

Level42 · « **Reply #197 on:** September 29, 2009, 01:03:04 pm »

And it is with great pleasure that the Committee of RESTOREY's has awarded this cab the second official RESTOREY !

The RESTOREY is awarded to people who have done a restoration that:

a) is beyond doubt and discussion extremely beautifully done
b) is well documented on this forum
c) is finished

Regretfully, there is no prize attached to it (yet?) other than "Eternal Fame".

Congratulations !

Well done, and keep up the good work !

Majoraslayer · « **Reply #198 on:** September 29, 2009, 01:16:49 pm »

Very well done!

We need a stickied topic listing all of "Restoreys" that have been awarded. It would be a great way to quickly jump to these completed and beautiful projects.

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #199 on:** September 29, 2009, 03:26:06 pm »

Wow. I read through the entire topic and was floored with your attention to detail.

Great, great, great work!

I have an empty Gorf cab sitting in my garage that I almost MAME'd until I saw this. I have the control panel complete with Joystick and all glass ovelays and such. I probably won't MAME it, but I won't restore it myself either, as my time and budget is too limited. I'm so impressed in fact that I wouldn't mind GIVING this to Spyridon if he could restore it again. I'm in NY which isn't too far away from PA.

** EDIT: Forgot to mention that the Gorf cab doesn't have a monitor or PCB in it.

Thoughts?

DeLuSioNaL29


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