Gorf restoration

[Level42]

About the soldering: that wire you used may be a bit too thin. Do you have a bit thicker wire around ?

Also, the solderings look......well like a mess...Sorry to say so.....

It looks like you didn't let the solder do it's work "by itself". When I was taught soldering the teacher said "let the solder do the work".Anyway, since the solder on there is about 27 years old, it will not run easily anymore. To compensate for this, hold a tiny bit of new solder to the soldering and flow that together with the old soldering. That will make it run better. Let it completely get fluid. Don't be too worried on applying the iron a little longer. (It looks like you applied it too shortly, or you used an iron that was not hot enough).

The best thing would be to suck away the old solder completely and make a complete now soldering. But if you don't have soldering wick or a soldering sucker, you will be OK with just reflowing it with a bit of new solder like I explained.

Here's how it should, and shouldn't look like...

[Spyridon]

About the soldering: that wire you used may be a bit too thin. Do you have a bit thicker wire around ?

I thought a thicker wire would be better, but I went with the approach they used in this article and several others I found.

Also, the solderings look......well like a mess...Sorry to say so.....

You're probably right.  This is the first time I've ever used a soldering iron and I didn't have anyone locally to show me the ropes.

Do you think what I have will work or does it need to be redone?  I do have continuity across the break.

[ChadTower]

About the soldering: that wire you used may be a bit too thin. Do you have a bit thicker wire around ?

That is the first thing that occurred to me too.  That trace is way too wide for a 30 gauge wire to replace it.

Agreed on the joints... if they're not cold now they will be after heating up a bunch of times.

[Wade]

The most important tip anyone told me about soldering was this: Don't use the iron to melt the solder... use the iron to heat the parts and then let the parts melt the solder.  The only time you should put solder on the iron is to

To me, that seems to be the key to making a good solder joint.  Before I was told that, all my solder jobs were horrible.

Wade

[ChadTower]

Yeah.  That, and you're not even managing the solder.  You're managing the heat.  I wasn't a good solderer until I figured out to stop thinking of solder movement and start thinking of heat movement.  The solder will follow the heat, even away from the part into the air, so if you keep the heat exactly where you want it the solder does its own thing properly.

[Spyridon]

Okay, good tips.  I'll give it a try. 

How about 18 or 20 gauge wire?

[ChadTower]

Since that looks like it might be the ground, I'd err on the side of 18 gauge.  It might be easier to get on if you replace the diode with a new one that doesn't have the leg clipped yet - gives you something larger to wrap the wire around and solder onto.  It will also give the jumper a mechanical connection that it doesn't currently have.

[Spyridon]

Since that looks like it might be the ground, I'd err on the side of 18 gauge.  It might be easier to get on if you replace the diode with a new one that doesn't have the leg clipped yet - gives you something larger to wrap the wire around and solder onto.  It will also give the jumper a mechanical connection that it doesn't currently have.

Which area are you referring to? 


If I remember correctly the top blue wire is solderd into any empty hole.  There was solder there, but it wasn't holding anything in place.

[SirPeale]

The 30 gauge they want you to use in that link is for tiny traces.  18 to 20 would be fine.

[ChadTower]

If there's no component in that hole then you can just pop a leg in.  A mechanical connection is always better.

[Spyridon]

Okay, I redid the connection this time using 18 gauge wire.  I know it doesn't look great, but I had a hard time with the thick wire.  especially where I had two of them spliced together.  Anyway, I'm still learning, but it does work.  I have conenctivity across the gap.  Hopefully it will hold for the long term.

[Spyridon]

Okay, some better news.  I sanded down the cab where I had the first coat of blue paint.  It was really watery and made a mess.  I used 180 grit sandpaper followed by 220 grit to smooth it out.  I then hit it with another coat of blue.  This time it went on beautifully.  I made sure not to water it down too much.  I couldn't get it to spray in a very wide pattern, so I took it slow with a narrow spary.  It turned out really nice.  It needs at least one more coat and maybe two more.  I didn't want to go too thick with this coat.

Here is the cab sanded down and ready for the blue paint, and the after shot:

[ChadTower]

Nice, looks good. 

[8way]

Okay, I redid the connection this time using 18 gauge wire.  I know it doesn't look great, but I had a hard time with the thick wire.  especially where I had two of them spliced together.  Anyway, I'm still learning, but it does work.  I have conenctivity across the gap.  Hopefully it will hold for the long term.

By the looks of that solder job, you must not be using flux or your soldering gun is not high enough wattage or both. The solder your using may also be to high of a gage. That kinda goes hand in hand with the solder gun wattage. So either get smaller gage solder or higher watt solder gun. And definitely make sure you use plenty of flux, yes its messy but its and easy cleanup with some rubbing alcohol or similar. Don't take this the wrong way. I'm not trying to down your work, I'm just giving you some helpful advise. And hey for a beginner you at least got the job done.

[ChadTower]

Could he be using the wrong solder?  Normal 60/40 type electronics solder has flux in the core - for small things like this you often don't have to add any.  You may be right that the problem is not enough heat.  This sort of thing happens when the solder became soft but didn't flow.

[Spyridon]

Don't take this the wrong way. I'm not trying to down your work, I'm just giving you some helpful advise. And hey for a beginner you at least got the job done.

No offense taken.  As i've said, this is the first time I've done any soldering so any advice is welcomed.

I'm using a solder starter kit from Bob Roberts.  It came with a strand of solder that is unmarked, so I'm not sure what type it is.

[Spyridon]

Oh yeah, also I used Rosin Soldering Paste Flux.  I dipped the iron into it before applying.  Maybe I'm using it wrong?

[ChadTower]

Don't dip the iron in that... wipe a little onto the parts about to be soldered.  If you put it on the iron it will just burn off immediately and make the tip filthy.  Filthy tips don't transfer heat properly.  We can assume Bob gave you appropriate solder but that iron looks like a cheap one.  Make sure you let it heat up something like a full ten minutes.

[WunderCade]

You should always tin the tip of the iron before use. Don't dip the iron in that paste. Go to radio shack and get this stuff:


Tip Tinner and Cleaner Compound  $6.99

Been using this stuff at the beginning of every solder job and it works wonders. When the iron is hot (you should always give the iron a minute to heat up all the way) dip it in this stuff, it'll be like a hot knife in butter. It'll clean your tip and tin it in one dipping. Wipe the excess off on the damp sponge that is on your station. This is Great stuff to use.

Some tips on soldering...

I always tin the lead I am about to solder to a pad. I do this by wrapping the wire lead around a small segment of solder wire. I then apply the iron and the solder molts around the lead. Likewise with the pad your about to solder  it to. I usually create a big bead of solder on the pad if the wire is a heavy gauge. I then put the tinned wire lead on the fresh bead of solder and apply the iron. It all molts together. Remove the the soldering iron while holding the lead to the pad for a couple seconds while the solder solidifies. Also, make sure the pad is clean, dirt or rust or tarnish will cause the solder to not pull up and not stick.

There are other techniques for other types of jobs, like cap kits etc. But for now, hope this helps.

[SirPeale]

No offense taken.  As i've said, this is the first time I've done any soldering so any advice is welcomed.

The best advice I can give you is this: practice.   You need to find a circuit board you don't give a rats butt about, and practice both desoldering and soldering components on it.  Once you become proficient at it, move on to something you care about.

[Level42]

How much watts is that soldering iron ?

[Spyridon]

How much watts is that soldering iron ?

15 Watts

[Spyridon]

Today I worked on the metal piece that goes between the control panel and the bezel.  I sanded it down with 180 grit sandpaper, followed by 220 grit.  You have to make sure you sand in the same direction or you will leave marks.  After that I hit it with a coat of clear enamel.  Really turned out nice as I was able to remove the scratches.

Before:

After: (still wet)


I didn't worry too much about the bottom part (you can see it's slightly discolored) as it is hidden below the control panel.

[Level42]

How much watts is that soldering iron ?

15 Watts

That's just not enough. Get a more powerful one, or preferably a soldering station. There are relative cheap one's that are actually pretty good.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Station-Hobbyist/dp/B000AS28UC

Honestly, I don't understand that someone like Bob sells this kind of ---Cleveland steamer---. The excuse of "I only need to solder once" is only frustrating people into thinking they can't solder. EVERYONE can solder, but like with any job you need a proper tool.

Because of the low power, the heat is "running away" as soon as you touch the parts/soler/tracks. That's why the solder won't flow enough and you get the results you got. Good soldering requires _enough_ power so you only need to apply it for a short time.  This is not to criticize you, just trying to help out. If you'll be in this hobby, you're going to need a good soldering device. Although it doesn't need to be a metcal.

Here's a nice thread about soldering....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=57052.0

[Spyridon]

There are relative cheap one's that are actually pretty good.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Station-Hobbyist/dp/B000AS28UC

That one is currently on sale for half price.  I think I'll grab it.

Thanks for the link.

[shred5]

There are relative cheap one's that are actually pretty good.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Station-Hobbyist/dp/B000AS28UC

That one is currently on sale for half price.  I think I'll grab it.

Thanks for the link.

I use this one:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-7945
If you watch it will go one sale under 20 bucks... I think it is the same as the weller... looks exactly the same...


Dave

[8way]

How much watts is that soldering iron ?

15 Watts

Wow that's definitely too low for this kinda job. I use 15 watts to work on PSP mods mostly SMD leds. I would definitely go with the Weller its top of the line brand, i don't think i can trust that "TENMA" never heard of it. And the couple feedback on it are pretty bad.

[Spyridon]

Put the next coat of blue on today.  No problems and it looks great.  Perfectly smooth coat with the spray gun.




Next up is adding the white dots onto the blue.  I'm going to test out using a toothbrush to see how that works.

[ChadTower]

Tenma is okay.  Occasional use consumer level quality.  If you do a lot of soldering get a Weller but Tenma will get it done if you aren't doing it all the time.

[Level42]

Tenma is okay.  Occasional use consumer level quality.  If you do a lot of soldering get a Weller but Tenma will get it done if you aren't doing it all the time.

Like that 15 W piece of ---Cleveland steamer--- he already has ? For 40 bucks, I'd pick up that Weller and play safe...

[Spyridon]

The Weller has been ordered.  Got if for $39 shipped.

[Encryptor]

Spyridon

What is the mixture of paint you are using? (ie...ratio of paint to thinner) Are you using water as a thinner?  TIA!

Encryptor

[shred5]

Tenma is okay.  Occasional use consumer level quality.  If you do a lot of soldering get a Weller but Tenma will get it done if you aren't doing it all the time.

Like that 15 W piece of ---Cleveland steamer--- he already has ? For 40 bucks, I'd pick up that Weller and play safe...

I have the tenma and my friend has the weller. He comes over and helps me a lot because he is far better at this stuff than me and he said he can not tell the difference between the two. The Tenma can be had for under 20.00 and is more watts. Plus that is not a high end weller it is in the same class of the tanma model shown and We know what the high end ones cost. Weller is one of the best and that one he bought will do just fine.

Dave

[Spyridon]

Spyridon

What is the mixture of paint you are using? (ie...ratio of paint to thinner) Are you using water as a thinner?  TIA!

I'm using water as a thinner.  Hard to say what the ratio is, but it's not a lot of water.  Basically, I put enough in to cover the top of the paint and then mix it in.  It just takes some experimenting to get it right.

[ChadTower]

Like that 15 W piece of ---Cleveland steamer--- he already has ?

Ask him what he paid for it.  Pay for a piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and you get a piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.  That's the bottom of the line pencil.  The Tenma stations are decent.  I have one and did fine with it until I was given an old Weller.

[Spyridon]

Final step on the painting today.  I tried out two options on toothbrushes to see which would give the better paint splatter.  I used an old used (yuck) well worn toothbrush I found in the bottom of a drawer as well as a new hard bristle one.

The new one performed much much better than the worn one so I used it.

For the white paint, I just used the original white primer paint.  Didn't make sense to go out and buy white paint for how little I needed.  I dipped the brush into the paint and then used my thumb to flick the paint off the brush.  It worked even better than I expected.  Got just the right amount of speckles without and big runny ones.

Here are the photos.  It's hard to see in some of the pictures, but it really looks good in person:





Give this a day or so to dry and then the fun begins...putting it all back together!

[Spyridon]

Gorf is now one piece again!     I reassembled the top of the cab and the base today.


I also put the screens back in using some staples
bottom:

And sitting in place:

top:

with the bubble back in place



Now I have somewhere to put all of this:

[WunderCade]

 

So, now that you've been through the spray painting part, what do you think about the labor:results ratio involved? lol

The results are phenomenal but it sure does take a lot of work spraying a cab, huh. 

Anyways, it looks fantastic. Congrats....can't wait to see it back together. Did you get the replacement side art?

[Spyridon]

So, now that you've been through the spray painting part, what do you think about the labor:results ratio involved? lol

The results are phenomenal but it sure does take a lot of work spraying a cab, huh.   

It's a bit of work, but once you get the hang of it, it's not bad.  Working with oils is much more difficult, but latex is a breeze.  The results don't even compare to my MAME cab that I used a roller on.  I've got a few more cabs lined up to be painted and they will all be done using the sprayer.  Thanks for all the tips along the way.  They really helped out. 

Anyways, it looks fantastic. Congrats....can't wait to see it back together. Did you get the replacement side art?

Yeah, I picked up the side are from Arcade Overlays.  It's ink jet, but it looks pretty good (and it's the only option).

[ChadTower]

Nice.  Looks great.