Particle Board Sucks

[Smiley Massacre]

This is more of a rant and a word of caution to those thinking of using particle board to build anything arcade cabinet-related.

I never built anything before, unless you count high school shop class or pre-cut furniture, so attempting to build an arcade cabinet is a huge feat to me.  So I finally took the plunge and purchased parts from GroovyGameGear, with constant thoughts of if I can even build something like this without it looking like a complete mess.

I've been doing a lot of research here on the forums, and know that going with MDF or plywood would be better options, but wanted to test my woodworking skills first.  I was at Lowes and noticed they only had 1 4x8' 3/4" sheet of MDF available.  At the time I didn't feel like lugging around the 4x8 sheet just yet, so I noticed they had a 2x4' 5/8" sheet of particle board, and it was cheap enough to pick it up and use it just for testing.  I also didn't want to work with MDF right now since it's so damn cold out (upstate NY) and had to do something to break the cabin fever I am having, so working in the garage was ideal. Plus I have a Xenophobe cabinet at home that was made of particle board, and thought "Eh, what the hell?"

I brought the sheet home, then started going to town on it.  Laid out the CP printout I made, cut the board to shape and size, sanded edges down, drilled all holes necessary, built the box to hold the CP top, installed hinges, etc.  The CP was all set, just needed all of the remaining parts and it would be good to go.  Then I decided that maybe this test case could be used as my actual CP.  "Fine, I'll try it out."

So then my parts came a week later, and I am all giddy like a schoolgirl, and cannot wait to try everything out.  I go out, use the router to make the insert for the joystick plate on the bottom of the CP top, and everything was going so smooth.

Then I whip out the threaded inserts I bought from GGG, and made sure the holes that the inserts were going into were the correct size and depth without making a hole on the other side of the 1/2" thick board after I made a 1/8" insert with the router.  I start screwing the insert, and then, in horror, without any effort at all, the particle board around the hole started shredding and breaking away, destroying the integrity of the hole for the insert to stay secure in. 

I was so pissed to see this happen, especially since I have been so careful throughout the process, and now I am trying to decide what to do next.  Should I find another way to mount the joysticks (T nut, surface bolt, etc.), or should I just go to a Home Depot to get MDF and start all over again?   

I have already been designing an overlay for the CP top, so to use T nuts and Bondo or wood compound over it would seem to be ideal, but I don't know.

Decisions, decisions.   

[Mr_Numbers]

That sucks but thanks for the caveat emptor warning.  Personally I would switch of to atleast MDF but I'm impartial against particle board for personal reasons.

[yotsuya]

Carriage bolts FTW!

[pbj]

Shove a bamboo skewer in the hole, put your threaded insert back in, and cut off the skewer.  Extraordinarily useful trick for fixing blown out holes.

[yotsuya]

Shove a bamboo skewer in the hole, put your threaded insert back in, and cut off the skewer.  Extraordinarily useful trick for fixing blown out holes.

I've also used the discarded end of a zip tie on some blown-out holes with success.

[Smiley Massacre]

Carriage bolts FTW!

I was thinking about that, but I am unsure of the depth that is left in the hole right now cause I'm at work.  Anything I could do to fill the hole up so I can gain more integrity in the wood panel?

[Smiley Massacre]

Shove a bamboo skewer in the hole, put your threaded insert back in, and cut off the skewer.  Extraordinarily useful trick for fixing blown out holes.

For something like this, should I also use wood glue to make it stronger?  I was trying to find my damn box of toothpicks last night, but sadly it was a no-go.  Gonna have to go out and pick some up.   

[pbj]

Shove a bamboo skewer in the hole, put your threaded insert back in, and cut off the skewer.  Extraordinarily useful trick for fixing blown out holes.

I've also used the discarded end of a zip tie on some blown-out holes with success.

I KNEW those were good for something!  I've wasted so many!! 

Nah, but seriously, use toothpicks or a skewer.  They'll soak up paint and wood glue.

 

[kahlid74]

PBJ has a rock solid tip here, it also doesn't hurt to explore T-Bolts.  I'm a big fan of that way as well.

[PL1]

The new FAQ has an overview of mounting hardware here.


Scott

[Smiley Massacre]

The new FAQ has an overview of mounting hardware here.


Scott

Thanks, I used this as a guide to get an idea of what I wanted to do next to resolve the issue.  I went ahead and bought 1" flathead machine screws and recessed them on the top of the control panel:



I did want to use carriage bolts, but none of the stores around me had anything smaller than 1/4" thickness.  So now I have flatheads installed, I'm going to use wood filler (unless there is something else better) to cover the holes and sand it down, since I will be adding an overlay to the CP.

[Drnick]

I'm going to use wood filler (unless there is something else better) to cover the holes and sand it down, since I will be adding an overlay to the CP.

Better Hope none of your Joysticks need replacing after you do that 

[PL1]

I'm going to use wood filler (unless there is something else better) to cover the holes and sand it down, since I will be adding an overlay to the CP.

Better Hope none of your Joysticks need replacing after you do that 

He might be able to use a lockwasher and nut on the underside of the CP to keep the screw head from turning.

Countersunk screw in panel
Lockwasher -- possibly countersunk into the bottom?
Nut -- possibly countersunk into the bottom?
Joystick mounting plate
Nut


Scott

[Drnick]

yeah that would work    Its a shame particle board sucks as much as it does though, would have been a lot less trouble for the OP if it didn't blow out so easily.

[Smiley Massacre]

I'm going to use wood filler (unless there is something else better) to cover the holes and sand it down, since I will be adding an overlay to the CP.

Better Hope none of your Joysticks need replacing after you do that 

He might be able to use a lockwasher and nut on the underside of the CP to keep the screw head from turning.

Countersunk screw in panel
Lockwasher -- possibly countersunk into the bottom?
Nut -- possibly countersunk into the bottom?
Joystick mounting plate
Nut


Scott

Good call to the both of you!  Never thought about having the replace the joysticks down the road, or even removing them.  I'll look into adding lockwashers underneath the panel, unless someone has a better idea.  Maybe going with T nuts, if need be.

[Smiley Massacre]

yeah that would work    Its a shame particle board sucks as much as it does though, would have been a lot less trouble for the OP if it didn't blow out so easily.

Indeed.  Lesson learned.   

[jaharr01]

Years ago when i used to build speaker boxes if a hole got blown out like that I would either get fiber strand body filler or regular body filler.It is a fiberglass bondo. It is strong as hell you can buy it at any auto parts chain. take the sleeve or bolt out fill the hole let it cure, carefully redrill. Particle board woodworking  kind of an art form.rules don't apply like with regular wood. One thing is that if you don't have real sharp bits or drill too slow rpm it will dig in and tear. Happens a lot with spade bits. use a fairly high rpm  with a sharp bit and go in slow with clearing of dust so it won't clog and rip.

[knave]

Little late but I would use JB weld, you could fill the hole or use it to install the insert. Paintable, sandable, drillable and dries hard. I've even recreated cracked off corners of plastic with it.

[DarakuTenshi]

Yeah my first cab was mostly particle board. That stuff is ugly and no good! I went with MDF on my most recent cab and have loved the results... Only it's a heavy beast.

[DaOld Man]

Particle board is hard to work with, I used it on my first jukebox build because I wanted it to be lighter than it would with MDF, but I regretted it after I started cutting and fitting. I used MDF for the speaker box and the juke still turned out pretty heavy. (Stevies Juke Box, link is in my signature if you want to check it out.)

As for mounting the joysticks, I would use recessed T nuts and coat the top side with wood glue to allow it to soak into the wood and harden it some. After the glue dries completely, I would level the holes with bondo.
I like bondo (car body filler, available at auto stores and Walmart), more than wood putty or filler, it is easier to work with and it sands easily. But you have to practice mixing the hardner, too much and the bondo will set before you can finish the job, too little and the bondo may take several days to set. But it doesn't take long to figure out how much hardner you need. Just practice a bit on some scrap wood first.

[DNA Dan]

Late to the party, but ANY TIME you drill particle board or push laterally on it you need to sandwich both sides with scrap and clamp. I have found this is the only guarantee you won't blow a hole out. Also very sharp tools help so that the tool CUTS the material instead of needing more force applied to it. There are many different manufacturers and some use better bonding materials than others. Sounds like you got a stale cookie.