Pocket Screws and T-Molding

[elsie]

I am thinking about building my cabinet using pocket screws, and specifically with this Kreg K3 jig.  I am planning on using 1 1/4" coarse screws with 3/4" plywood.  I know that a few people here have done similarly, and I was wondering if anyone had any issues when it came time to install the t-molding.  Did the screws encroach into the t-molding slot at all?

[pcb]

They shouldn't if you leave a lip on the sides and inset the front and back pieces.

 - Mike -

[sstorkel]

This trick is to route all of the pieces that will need T-molding before you join them together with pocket screws. If the screws happen to protrude into the T-molding slot, you can just notch the molding around them. What you don't want to do is crash your slot-cutting bit into a pocket screw...

[nostrebor]

This trick is to route all of the pieces that will need T-molding before you join them together with pocket screws. If the screws happen to protrude into the T-molding slot, you can just notch the molding around them. What you don't want to do is crash your slot-cutting bit into a pocket screw...

Seconded.

[milhouse]

I have a question, as I am preparing to start my cab.  What is the benefit of using pocket screws as opposed to other methods of joining?  Is it the kind of thing that when I'm done I will realize it would have been faster/better/easier if I had used them?

Thanks

[sstorkel]

Pocket screws are ideal for building kitchen cabinet face frames and kitchen cabinet boxes. They might be useful when building a standalone control panel.

When it comes to building an entire cabinet, I don't know that they help a whole lot. They're somewhat faster than a traditional screw, but when building a cabinet you'd want to place all of the pocket screws inside the cabinet so they wouldn't be seen. I'd had difficulty keeping pieces properly aligned when I tried to do this in the past; none of the special clamps made for holding pocket screw joints can be used on an inside corner, unfortunately. In this situation, the only real advantage of a pocket screw joint is that the screws will hold the cabinet together while the glue dries so you can remove the clamps and move on to something else...

[Donkman]

  Pocket screws are useful for all types of edge to edge joinery. I use them in combination with dowels for an assemble/disassemble joint for the mantles I build. The dowels provide for the alignment and the pocket screws provide the mechanical holding power.
For 90 degree corners I use the pocket drill bit with a depth adjustment collar to control screw depth penetration. The coarse thread screws are used mostly for mdf/plywood with fine thread used for hardwoods since there is more / denser fiber to grab the threads. The Kreg K3 jig with clamping assembly is  good for uniform spacing along the edge of cabinet panels, corner assemblies, etc. There are 3 holes in the jig to allow for different spacing for each clamping action. Using a drill with clutch-torque adjustment will prevent screw stripping in soft woods like mdf. I also use pocket screws for reinforcement in corners of large cabinet assemblies with screws in an alternating pattern in a cleat with glue for extra strength. The cleat will limit the movement of the adjoining edge inward and provide more surface for glue. Use a scrap piece of mdf or whatever material you are using to establish the amount of setback from the edge. The kreg flatstep drillbits are the most durable I have found so far. I usually buy pocket screws in regular blue coating
in bulk boxes of 7000 at a time for production work. You can find smaller amounts of screws in stainless steel for improved strength and outdoor use. I find a 6 inch #2 square drive bit with hardened end to last the longest and allow easier driving at the steep angle needed for flat edge to edge joints. I also use the screws with a triangle shaped
 corner piece to hold countertops,cabinet tops from underneath when it may need to be removed in the future.