I bent the threads on the shank for my router!

[javeryh]

Does that even make sense?  I was installing a bit in my router and when I was threading the nut which holds the bit onto the router I had it misaligned.  Without realizing it I used the wrenches to tighten the bit and I completely ruined the threads.  Now I can't screw the nut onto the router and install any bits!  Can I get a replacement part?  Anyone know where?  I have a 1-3/4 HP DeWalt router.  I checked their website but didn't see anything...

[sstorkel]

You'll have to call DeWalt and talk to their Tech Support people, or stop by an authorized service center. Unfortunately, this type of damage is often impossible to repair. The shaft that holds the bit tends to be a pretty integral part of the motor, which means that it can be difficult to replace. My guess is that DeWalt will tell you that you need to buy a new motor. Which isn't bad advice given that you'll probably be spinning bits at 20,000+ RPM. At those speeds, you really don't want them coming loose!

With that said, if there isn't an easy way to replace the shaft and you don't have the money to buy a new motor and you're willing to risk serious injury while using the router then you should find a good local machine shop and ask them about doing a repair. Sounds like you cross-threaded the collet nut, damaging the threads on the motor shaft. Ask your local machinist if it's possible to re-cut the threads so that the collet nut can be installed. If only a small portion of the threads have been damaged, they might be able to run a die down the shaft and re-cut the threads in the damaged region. If you've damaged a large portion of the threaded area, they might need to run the threading further down the shaft, so that the collet nut has enough engagement to stay in place. Doing this should be less expensive than buying a new motor. If the machinist tells you you're a nut for wanting to use a router with buggered threads, believe them!

[javeryh]

Thanks for taking the time to reply.  You described my problem perfectly.  I don't really want to mess around when it comes to safety so I guess I'll chalk this up to an expensive lesson learned and buy another router.  I really liked the DeWalt so I'll go that route again but maybe this time I'll buy the whole kit with the plunge and d-handle bases (I've only got the fixed kind now).  It's $300... ouch.  I have a healthy fear of my power tools as it is and the peace of mind is worth the cost alone. My wife is going to kill me though!

[ChadTower]

You shouldn't have to rebuy the bases at all... just buy the motor if you want to have the same model.  It should drop right into the base(s) you have.

[fjl]

Have you done a close inspection? Maybe it was only the collet that got stripped. You can replace those.

As a precaution whenever I put a threaded nut on anything, I always turn it the opposite direction first until you feel it "snap" in, then you can safely tighten it.

[ChadTower]

You have to crank pretty hard to strip one of those on a DeWalt. 

[fjl]

So then its easier to ruin the threaded shaft attached to the motor than the collet?    

[javeryh]

I checked - the threaded shaft is definitely out of alignment - I can see "fresh metal" where the threads deviate (from the grinding caused by my dumb ass tightening the collet without lining it up first).  I will never make this mistake again... 

[fjl]

Any chance using a die to re-thread or fix the threads might make it work again?

[sstorkel]

Any chance using a die to re-thread or fix the threads might make it work again?

Didn't I already suggest that? The problem is that cross-threading the collet will have removed metal and caused new partial-depth threads to be cut in the shaft. If you run a die along the shaft, you may re-align the threads but you'll also remove even more metal. In my experience, the threads you end up with after doing this don't extend far enough to completely engage the nut (or, in this case, collet). If the damaged area is small, this might not be a problem. But with a bit spinning at 20,000 RPM, you want to be ---goshdarn--- sure the collet nut isn't going to come loose...

javeryh, before you give up on the router completely I'd really suggest you contact DeWalt or your closest authorized service center. Given the cost of a new motor, you might as well take a few minutes to be absolutely sure your router can't be repaired. I think it's a long shot, but it seems like this problem can't be that uncommon; maybe DeWalt has come up with a replaceable shaft that will get you going again? I'd check, if it were me.

[ratzz]

Definitely no room for a DIY fix with the router.

Great advice given already though, new motor / router. Bummer though.

[bfauska]

I agree with SS about giving the replacement part a look.  If it's available it would be worth the savings to replace the part rather than the whole router. 

As far as the "repaired" threads causing the bit to come out, it's unlikely.  The direction the motor spins actually works to tighten the collet so unless the threads were petty stripped I'd give it a shot.  If the only solution was to try to completely re-cut the threads you would probably loose too much of the grab, but like sstorkel said, if it's a small section it may work out.

If you don't feel comfortable with the "repaired" threads, the replaced motor or shaft would be a perfectly safe solution, provided the installation of the parts was done properly.  If you don't want to risk it any more than you do when using any router the new motor assembly w/o new bases would be the way to go.  If you can't find the motor w/o bases, either buy a kit with bases you don't have (plunge, d-handle, table) but a compatible motor.  If you can't find that, you may be able to sell the base from a new kit identical to the one you have and actually not end up loosing too much money.

[bfauska]

Just looked on the dewalt site and they sell the motor assembly w/o bases for both of their 1 3/4 horse routers through amazon and another company.  The softstart motor DW618m is only like $135 and the DW616m (no softstart) is like $180

Your motor probably has one of those numbers on it.  This is probably the simplest all around way and safest to fix the problem.

[fjl]

Thats expensive for just the motor. The whole router costs only a few dollars more so I'd go with simply buying the new router.

I have this router, http://www.amazon.com/1617EVSPK-Horsepower-Variable-Speed-Collets-Accessories/dp/B000BGKIJ6/ref=pd_bbs_sr_10?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1195027467&sr=8-10

It kicks so much ass. I originally got the whole kit for $180 on Ebay. I checked ebay and they sell it for less but reconditioned. I got mines new. I have yet to use the plunge base but its nice to know I have it whenever i't comes up that I can use it.

[javeryh]

I ended up buying THIS kit last night.  It came with the fixed base, plunge base and the d-handle base - it is amazing.  The motor has a variable speed and it just feels better in my hands.  It was expensive as hell ($300) but I think in the long run it will be well worth it - the router is by far my favorite tool in the shop.

[sstorkel]

Nice kit! It's the one I'd buy if I had to do it over again...

[fjl]

Nice. Do you already have a template guide kit? I'm planning on getting one but undecided with which one to go with.

[sstorkel]

Nice. Do you already have a template guide kit? I'm planning on getting one but undecided with which one to go with.

If you've got the Bosch 1617, buy the Bosch template guide kit. The kit works well and the quick-change option is nice. The Bosch kit also includes the adapter so you can use Porter Cable bushings.

[fjl]

I was thinking about that so I read the reviews on it at Amazon and many people say the same as you but also bash the bosch template guide kit. But they all agree that the adapter for porter cable guides is the only reason worth buying it. So I did that, I bought only that adaptor. But then I noticed that most other template guide bushing are conpatible with Porter Cables. So I'm deciding on getting the porter cable template guide or some other popular brand. What do you think?

[sstorkel]

What do you think?

Dude, why do you even bother to ask? You know you've already made up your mind and nothing I'm going to say will change your decision. Don't waste my time...

[fjl]

No, I havent made up my mind or else I would have already bought it. The porter Cable seems to be one of the more expensive ones though which is why I'm looking at some of the others. Which set do you guys use?

[Donkman]

 I have been using plunge routers and a router table for my work for about 6 years now. I have burned up two Bosch 1617 EVS routers in my router table. The motor bearings and/ or brushes just froze after enough use. These routers have been used day after day in a production environment. I have also burned up one stock feeder in the process. For plunge routers I am running a Bosch 2.25 HP router (I don't remember the model number) for small bits. My main routers are (3) Porter Cable 3.25 HP Model 7539 plunge routers mounted to custom 1/2 inch acrylic bases for pattern work. My router table includes a Jessem router lift designed to use the 7518 Porter Cable router 3.25 HP. Granted my work demands heavier equipment than most people would need to use for building a Mame cabinet. The Porter Cable 7539 routers are about 17 lbs each and will work on your arms and shoulders after 2 or 3 hours of use but will handle about any bit you would ever need or could safely use in a hand router. I have used them with a 1 1/2 inch diameter profile bit for hours at a time without problem.  The 7539 routers are 399 on the Woodworker Supply website, I bought them for between 275 and 340 dollars each. 
 I also have a 3 HP 3phase 220V HSD router spindle on my CNC router but that is another animal altogether. If I can help with router bit / router advice just ask.       
 

[fjl]

Dude you are the man! I would love to use a router all day and get paid for it!