Wells-Gardner 25K7193 has about a 3 inch view with a multicolor line in center

[wss92271]

  Just to let you all know up front...I don't know diddly about electronics(unless it's dealing with an automobile). I just bought an old Nintendo Super System video arcade from a local pizza joint(It's been sitting there for a year unused). Anyway they told me it didn't work. Well to get to the point it works fine other than the picture. It looks as the entire screen is bunched together in a 3 inch horizontal line in the center of the screen. Well I took the chassis out and there is a tag hanging from it stating new caps and a flyback was installed 3/06. Now, before anyone says anything, yes, I did try to adjust using the remote control board and that did not help. It did expand thin green horizontal lines to the top of the screen, but the picture stayed like it was...squashed to a 3"viewing line The monitor is a Philips M0X8 also. I would greatly appreciate any and all help on what to do. Thanks everyone. --Wayne

[Kevin Mullins]

Did you check all the solder joints on the chassis for any that may be broken?

It's a plus that a cap kit and flyback was done so recently.

[wss92271]

Unfortunately I did and found none that looked cracked or that were loose. I did however notice a tar like substance around a few diodes or maybe they are resistors.

[Ken Layton]

Cap C51 is not included in capkits and it should be. It or the vertical output IC are likely bad. Try replacing C51 first. It's value is critical to generating the correct height of the picture.

[wss92271]

Well I have been looking for about 20 minutes and have no clue where C51 is. I cannot find a C51 number on the entire board.

[Ken Layton]

It's directly behind the 50/60 hz pot. See www.jstookey.com/arcade/WG_25k7191/

[wss92271]

There is nothing there that I can see. I have attached two pictures of the board....

[SirPeale]

IIRC C51 isn't an electrolytic cap.

[Ken Layton]

I see it in your picture. It's that yellowish tiny capacitor directly behind the 50/60 pot. It's what's called a "dipped tantalum" electrolytic capacitor.

[wss92271]

  Alrighty...found it. Since Radio Shack is closed I will take the original in tomorrow, get a new one and solder one in. Just perhaps this is not my problem, where is the vertical IC located? Is that replaceable or fixable?

[wss92271]

After I solder a new one in, I will replace the chassis and power it up. If it is doing the same thing, I will take a picture of the screen so you can see what it is doing and maybe that will give you other ideas.

[Ken Layton]

Radio shack will NOT have that capacitor. It is special and it's value is critical. Bob Roberts should have it though.

[wss92271]

Well, there you go.....got me stumped again. Who is Bob Roberts?? How do I contact him? Does anyone have a rebuilt board? What does it cost to have this one redone?

[Kevin Mullins]

Who is Bob Roberts??

 

Ok, sorry.....just had to get that out.
I understand if you really don't know.

Great guy, he's got the goods, been in the business since before most of us were even born, etc, etc.

Home page: http://homearcade.org/BBBB/
Parts page: http://homearcade.org/BBBB/parts.html

[wss92271]

Well, I appreciate the feeling of a complete moron. I am a car mechanic and thought I would see if I can fix a video game.. So far I have been getting alot of help so I did something right so far...I chose this site for help!!

[SirPeale]

Monitors are one of those things that - unless you work on them every day - can and will puzzle you.

[Kevin Mullins]

Well, I appreciate the feeling of a complete moron. I am a car mechanic and thought I would see if I can fix a video game.. So far I have been getting alot of help so I did something right so far...I chose this site for help!!

My apologies..... I meant to say that in a manner that a few OTHERS would understand and maybe get a chuckle out of it. Once again..... my apologies.

As for being a car mechaic ...... "Welcome to the club !!" (ok, different club)
I've been turning wrenches since junior high.
Cars, boats, mowers, airplanes, amusement rides, electricical and somewhere in the midst there squeezed in a bit of electronics.
Hope I can be of some real help in the future for ya.   

[wss92271]

Ok, I am lost again. I desoldered the little yellow capacitor and it reads +A or R then under than it says u68 and under that it says 35. What does all this mumbo jumbo mean?

[Kevin Mullins]

Tantalum capacitor - .68uf - 35V - 10%tolerance

[Ken Layton]

Yeh, what Kevin said, but I should mention it's a dipped tantalum.

[wss92271]

Well, That Bob Roberts does not have them from what I can see. Anyone Near Wisconsin and want a game?

[t8erbug]

Not telling you to use it but Bob Roberts does carry a .68uf 100v Mylar cap as part of the PCB & Monitor cap kit. Maybe Kevin or Ken can tell you if this would work.

[MonMotha]

Mouser (www.mouser.com) part number 80-T350A684K035 or 80-T350A684K035AT (lead free, and therefore possibly a bit harder to get soldered in) looks like it's probably a suitable replacement.  They're 35 cents each, so buy a few in case you mess up.  They'll ship first class mail for darn near actual postage, so you can probably have all this for a few bucks, and mouser has no minimum order.

When you put the new one in, remember that tantalums are polarized, so be sure to get that correct.

[Ken Layton]

Not telling you to use it but Bob Roberts does carry a .68uf 100v Mylar cap as part of the PCB & Monitor cap kit. Maybe Kevin or Ken can tell you if this would work.

No No No.  The cap on that monitor has to be a .68 uf @ 35 volt dipped Tantalum electrolytic not a mylar.

[wss92271]

Well guys, I definately appreciate the help so far. I ordered 3 dipped tantalums and now I have to wait! I will update as soon as I can!!

[t8erbug]

Ken ,

Thank you for the follow up.

[urbecrisch]

I have the same chassis and have used Chad Entringer in Green Bay, WI for repair.  He is a great guy and has a super fast turnaround with repairs.  He also is very prompt with emails/phone calls.  Here's his site:

http://www.arcadecup.com/

[wss92271]

Well alright folks. I ended up buying a NEW chassis and the monitor looks great BUT the screen is upside down and backwards. I'm telling you, I CAN'T WIN. Anyone know how to fix this problem??

[Ken Layton]

www.therealbobroberts.net/yoke.html

[HaRuMaN]

Well alright folks. I ended up buying a NEW chassis and the monitor looks great BUT the screen is upside down and backwards. I'm telling you, I CAN'T WIN. Anyone know how to fix this problem??

I had this problem...  I switched the yoke wires to correct it (which worked) however I did it while the machine was powered up and got a nice little jolt.  Be careful with monitors!