Best way to fill holes on an old Control Panel

[BradC]

I figured this should go in the Woodworking forum. If it's wrong, please move it.

So I have this Stargate cabinet that was converted into a Magic Sword, and it is going to become my brother's MAME cabinet. However, neither he nor I have very good woodworking skills or tools. I explained that the way it is configred right now, he can have a 2-joystick / 2-buttons each setup, or he can build a new CP from scratch to accomodate 6 buttons each.

He is fine with the 2 button setup, so I want to know if I should fill in the old holes, or just cover them (as was done with the Magic Sword.) If I was going to fill in the old holes, would I use wood putty or something like that?

Here's the panel:

[Kaytrim]

Wood putty will shrink and crack.  Go to your local automotive supply store and pick up a can of Bondo.  Follow the directions and mix it up in small batches because this stuff cures quickly. Use something to back the hole with on the initial fill so the Bondo doesn't fall out.  Also don't try and fill the hole completely in one shot.  This way the Bondo has a chance to fully cure.

Once the holes are filled you can sand it down flush with the wood.  Now you have a blank CP ready to drill and fill with buttons and joysticks.  You should be able to get a two player street fighter layout to fit in there nicely. 

TTFN
Kaytrim

[BradC]

Wow, so I can actually re-drill out the button holes after I bondo everything? I didn't think anything would hold up well enough.

Thanks for the tip.

[Kaytrim]

When you redrill use a spade bit with the little 'ears' or teeth on the ends  This will make a nice smooth cut.  A hole saw would be my second choice.  I don't know if I'd use a flat spade bit because it might tear the bondo instead of cutting it.  Here is the spade bit set I have.

[BradC]

That's the kind of spade bit I have, so I'll use those.

[csa3d]

Don't know if this is a good option or not, but I'm in the process of repairing some security bar holes around my coindoor in the wood, and those bolts were a pretty decent size.  I went to the Home Depot and bought some dowel rod the diameter of the holes.  I then cut them to length, and wood glued and hammered into a snug fit.  After that dried, I sanded the dowl smooth, and I went over the front and back with bondo to fill in any spaces still left over.  I found one coat of bondo to be more enjoyable then many layers of bondo to do the same job.  This may not work for you due to redrilling, but I'd imagine it would be strong enough for what you're after.

-csa

[BradC]

I would just be afraid of popping the dowels out while redrilling (as you say) and then ending up having to refill the original hole, plus the part I'd started cutting.

[javeryh]

With all that effort I'd just build a new CP.  The artwork is trashed so that needs to be replaced and the front and top panels look like they meet at 90 degrees so a 1/4" roundover bit would take care of the curve in about 30 seconds.

[Kaytrim]

javeryh, Brad said that he and his brother don't have any wood working skils.  That tells me that they wouldn't have a router or bits.  I think that filling and re-drilling would be within their skill set. 

Besides the more I work with bondo the more I feel that it is a necessary skill to learn in this hobby.  It also has ramifications in other areas.  I was able to fix an entertainment center that had the cam lock holes broke out.  I filled the hole with bondo, sanded, drilled a new hole and painted it.  The joint is now as strong or stronger then when it was new.

[BradC]

Correct-a-mundo, no router nor skills.

The front and top panels actually have a rounded joint. It's probably just the picture that makes it look like a sharp 90-degree angle. While the art is trashed and will be removed the panel itself seems to be in pretty good shape, sturdy with no rotting or water damage.

[javeryh]

Hmmm... I guess it would be tough without a router but you could achieve the same results by sanding the corner until it was round (but you need a lot of patience... and possibly some skill). 

BradC - the router and 1/4" roundover bit I mentioned would create the rounded edge.  Two panels would be glued together at a 90 degree angle with a sharp corner and the bit would take care of the curve.  Anyway, if you don't have a router or any skills then bondo is the way to go - Kaytrim knows his stuff!

Good luck.   

[csa3d]

Besides the more I work with bondo the more I feel that it is a necessary skill to learn in this hobby.  It also has ramifications in other areas.  I was able to fix an entertainment center that had the cam lock holes broke out.  I filled the hole with bondo, sanded, drilled a new hole and painted it.  The joint is now as strong or stronger then when it was new.

I agree, Bondo is amazing.  I've in "fill the holes/edges/corners" mode on my project and upon fixing certain "extreme damage" areas, you stand back and really wonder what this stuff CAN'T do.  My only issue with Bondo thus far is that as soon as you mix in the hardener, you literally have like 1.5 minutes to do your best work and toss out the rest.  I really have no idea how those autobody folks apply gallons of that on a car with as fast as it hardens up.  If I can fix 5" of space in one mix, I'm happy and cut my losses for round 2 (or 3).

[Kaytrim]

Besides the more I work with bondo the more I feel that it is a necessary skill to learn in this hobby.  It also has ramifications in other areas.  I was able to fix an entertainment center that had the cam lock holes broke out.  I filled the hole with bondo, sanded, drilled a new hole and painted it.  The joint is now as strong or stronger then when it was new.

I agree, Bondo is amazing.  I've in "fill the holes/edges/corners" mode on my project and upon fixing certain "extreme damage" areas, you stand back and really wonder what this stuff CAN'T do.  My only issue with Bondo thus far is that as soon as you mix in the hardener, you literally have like 1.5 minutes to do your best work and toss out the rest.  I really have no idea how those autobody folks apply gallons of that on a car with as fast as it hardens up.  If I can fix 5" of space in one mix, I'm happy and cut my losses for round 2 (or 3).

You may be adding too much hardener.  You should have around 3-5 min of work time.  I make small batches.  I use about 1/2 cup of bondo and a spot of hardener that is about the size of a dime.  I then mix it up for about 20 - 30 seconds and I can use up the entire batch.  Don't over mix either or you loose even more work time.  It doesn't have to be a perfect even pink, it can be slightly marbled and it will set up just fine.  Also don't try to make the fill perfect, overfill your holes.  This way you are sure that it is full and you can sand it flush with a random orbit sander.

TTFN
Kaytrim


EDIT***  There is a nice instructional section in the Wiki...

[lanman31337]

Instead of using body filler, I'd use the fiberglass jelly.  It soaks into the wood and gives it a very strong bond.