I have many questions about my SORCERER pin

[vintagegamer]

When you're testing, are you putting the machine into test mode, or are you firing up a game?

For this time around, I simply fired up a game.  I thought that would be the easiest way to check the switch after cleaning it up.

[ChadTower]

Use the switch test mode.

[SirPeale]

ALWAYS Use the switch test mode.

fixt

[vintagegamer]

Lemme see how things go with the new board (hoping it comes today).

As always, thx for the wisdom   

[ChadTower]

Stop buying new boards and start learning to troubleshoot.  It's the only way.

[vintagegamer]

I'm definitely getting up to speed on alot of stuff, and I plan to keep the original board to do exactly that.

Funny thing is, I remember playing this pin when I was a kid, and the weird part is I don't remember hearing any sounds on that one either!  And that was in the early 90s!  If this one ends up working and I get to hear the voice, it will tell me real quick if I've heard it before or not.   I just want to hear the dude talk, even if he only says 3 things..

[shardian]

Funny thing is, I remember playing this pin when I was a kid, and the weird part is I don't remember hearing any sounds on that one either!  And that was in the early 90s!  If this one ends up working and I get to hear the voice, it will tell me real quick if I've heard it before or not.   I just want to hear the dude talk, even if he only says 3 things..

Cough...cough...Visual Pinball...cough.

It is my opinion that visual pinball can serve as an effective tool in pinball troubleshooting/diagnostics.

[vintagegamer]

What is Visual Pinball?


(PS new PCB has arrived- stay tuned!!!)

[shardian]

What is Visual Pinball?


(PS new PCB has arrived- stay tuned!!!)

Well lets put it this way, would you like a fully functional computer model of your pinball machine that uses the actual rom files to control physically (close enough at least)accurate components on the table and uses the actual sound roms/dmd roms to boot? If so, then you might want to look into it.
Below is a screenshot from the sorcerer visual pinball game.

[vintagegamer]

DROOL..

[ChadTower]

It's not all that useful, actually, in troubleshooting a game.  Here it would be useful so he can hear the sounds but other than that, it's more useful for a surface evaluation on whether or not you like a game.

[shardian]

It's not all that useful, actually, in troubleshooting a game.  Here it would be useful so he can hear the sounds but other than that, it's more useful for a surface evaluation on whether or not you like a game.

VP has kept me from buying several pins local that I knew I just wouldn't enjoy. Any time I see one up for sale locally, I always check out the VP table.

[ChadTower]

VP is the whore that seduced me to buy a Fathom.   

[vintagegamer]

Well fellow gamers, I opened up the box with the reconditioned board in it.....


Took out the old board.......






Installed the replacement..................










Wired everything up...............................








Closed my eyes..............................









Powered up the game expecting to hear *PAP!!!* followed by a trickle of smoke, but instead I heard...









"I....................... AM ..  SORCERER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"          

My original speakers are in tact and functional, the new board is configured properly to give only 3 balls right now, and most of all.........  I HAVE SOUNDS AND SPEECH!!!!

I know you guys probably thought me being a bit premature in grabbing another board, but I'm still at entry level on alot of the repair stuff and this way I have a head start with the machine.  The only thing still not responding is the final "R" issue I reported earlier, so I guess next I will have to do the switch test as many of you recommended-  if you can give me the basics on what to do, that would be great.  If not, I will try to figure it out via the manual or 3M.  MANY thanks to all who have helped me get this game to where it is now-  I'm afraid to shut it OFF!!!

VINTAGEGAMER

[Kevin Mullins]

Congrats on the functioning speech / sound .....

Probably still a simple enough fix on the old board with enough given time working on it.

The only thing still not responding is the final "R" issue I reported earlier

I would use a meter to check continuity of both the ground lead and the switch lead. Check for continuity all the way from the "switch" at the spinner to the main cpu board. (the one you just replaced)
Since you replaced the main board, we can almost eliminate a transistor on the cpu board.
So maybe it has a bad ground or something.

[shardian]

Just in case you aren't sure how to use the meter to check continuity, here is a quick refresher:

Continuity is checked by measuring resistance (ohms). The basic theory can be summarized visually by setting the multimeter to measure ohms. When your leads are apart, the meter reads maximum ohms. This means there is no continuity between the leads - they are not connected. When you touch them together, the meter reads 0 ohms - the leads are connected. Easy huh? Now all you do is touch the leads to two points on the board you want to check. If they are connected in any way, the meter will move towards zero. A good connection will go all the way to 0 ohms. A possible intermittent connection or cold solder will show movement, but may stop before reaching 0 (assuming you are checking straight wiring and no resistors are between the leads). That is a connection you want to check.

Congrats on the sound!

[vintagegamer]

Thanks for the info Sharidan-

I think I need to take a pic of my multimeter and show you guys, since I can never remember what setting is "ohms" (I know, I'm a moron).

I pretty much bought it to test volts/amperage on cars-  that I can do all day long!

In regard to the machine, I actually ran out this AM before going to work and powered it up again, JUST to make sure everything was still working after I powered it down last night.  I've had that happen before, where I think I have everything fixed and the next day it's like it was a dream...  Thankfully, everything still works!



VINTAGEGAMER

[ChadTower]

EDIT:  nyeh, read the manual.

A multimeter almost always has a continuity mode.

[shardian]

Thanks for the info Sharidan-

I think I need to take a pic of my multimeter and show you guys, since I can never remember what setting is "ohms" (I know, I'm a moron).

I pretty much bought it to test volts/amperage on cars-  that I can do all day long!

In regard to the machine, I actually ran out this AM before going to work and powered it up again, JUST to make sure everything was still working after I powered it down last night.  I've had that happen before, where I think I have everything fixed and the next day it's like it was a dream...  Thankfully, everything still works!



VINTAGEGAMER

Look for this symbol "Ω" on your multimeter.

[vintagegamer]

EDIT:  nyeh, read the manual.

I think it's MIA..   

[Kevin Mullins]

A multimeter almost always has a continuity mode.

Would be a symbol like an arrow with a line at the point.
Also commonly refered to as the "beep mode" if yours has the audible beep for continuity.

Look for this symbol "Ω" on your multimeter.

Would normally have a scale like 200 - 2K - 20K - 200K - 2M - etc - etc


Is your meter digital or analog?
A pic would help confirm all your questions as well.
The cheapest of the cheap meters will do what you need it to do.
(my meter cost about $20.00 twelve years ago...... does the job just fine)

[shardian]

I have a $5 analog that does everything I need it to. The only prob with analogs is that they can be confusing to read if you aren't used to them.

[ChadTower]

Don't ask him to post a pic of his DMM.  He needs to get the manual.  Pretty much every maker posts them on their website.

[vintagegamer]

I didn't get to post a pic yet b/c I was putting the backglass for the pin back in the machine last night (JOY!!!!).  It looks awesome!

The DMM I have is powered by a 9-volt battery, has the traditional click dial in the middle and a digital LED to show voltages, and it has AC on one side and DC on the  other side of the dial.  It came from Auto Zone if I recall.

Will try to get more info on the meter tonight-

[shardian]

Would normally have a scale like 200 - 2K - 20K - 200K - 2M - etc - etc

At this point, it doesn't matter if your meter is digital or analog. If you have a dial that has DC and AC ranges for volts and amps, there is also a section on there for resistance. The above quote, along with the symbol I showed you are what you are looking for. There are probably less selections than above, but the format is the same. You have everything you need. For something as simple as continuity, you don't need a picture or the manual. You have everything you need, now get to work! [whip] CRACK!! [/whip]

[vintagegamer]

THANK YOU SIR MAY I HAVE ANOTHER!!!     

[Hammerhead]

Some DMM's are auto sensing, meaning you don't have to set the range, the DMM does it automatically (auto sensing is usually on the more expensive ones) Mine is a Blue Point and only has settings for volts AC. and volts DC with no scale. I use it for automotive repair mostly, but it works for my pinball project also. Hope this helps and isn't confusing, I just joined the forum so I am new to posting.

[ChadTower]

That isn't a DMM.  That's a voltmeter.

DMM - digital multimeter.  Would be able to measure resistance, capacitance,  diode check, continuity, voltage and amperage ac or dc...

[shardian]

That isn't a DMM.  That's a voltmeter.

DMM - digital multimeter.  Would be able to measure resistance, capacitance,  diode check, continuity, voltage and amperage ac or dc...

The better Flukes are auto scaling.

[Hammerhead]

Sorry if my reply was confusing, mine is a DMM, and does measure Resistance capacitance, diode check etc., I was just trying to say that it is auto scaling, and has settings for volts AC, and volt DC instead of a scale like some others, my pocket DMM has the scale, but my bigger unit is auto scaling and only has the 2 settings. Sorry for the confusion.

[ChadTower]

Doesn't have to be a better fluke to do autoranging, I have a $20 radio shack DMM that does that.

[Kevin Mullins]

It came from Auto Zone if I recall.

What model is it?