My latest cabinet submitted for your approval!

[golfboyusa]

Hi everyone.

  I too found myself challenged to build a better cabinet after I saw Knievel's Mame mastery. I immediately sold my 1st cabinet and began to build another. It seemed that everytime I completed the cabinet, a friend wanted it. Before I knew it, I had built seven cabinets in seven months, each improving on the last, moving from TV's to computer monitors, finally to arcade monitors. Control panels went from a formica tabletop to the one you see pictured. I acknowlege that creativity is not my strongest trait, but I always try to make a good idea better. My next personal project will be modeled after the newer Golden Tee cabinets with the two video screens.

  In the meantime, I have always like the look of this particular cabinet, and I plan to build another.  Adding a Neon ring for the sides would be a logical start. I've been messing around with LED's for use with translucent buttons and I have followed the LED tutorial closely, but anytime I hook up a string, they get very hot and I get concerned about burning the house down!

  I would appreciate any positive or negative comments that you guy's could offer. It seems I've hit a wall creatively and I would like to hear your ideas.

Thanks!

John

[Chris G]

7 cabs under your belt and you're just now joining the board?     

[bfauska]

Looks like some nice craftsmanship.  Are the buttons comfortable with that spacing?  They look kind of spread out to me.  Also maybe you could hide the speakers behind some speaker fabric on the next cabinet, and I think a coin-door and bezel would make it look more "Arcade authentic."  I have trouble with the creative aspect too, I haven't been able to come up with any art for my cab yet. 

Like I said it looks like you do quality work.  If nothing else, I bet hanging out here will give you some great ideas for any future cabinets or upgrades.

Welcome to the forum, and good job on your cabinet(s)

 

[golfboyusa]

Sorry Chris, I have been shamed! I've always cruised the forums and finally jumped in.

[golfboyusa]

  Thanks bfauska. The cabinet I'm working on now has a Happ over/under coin door. I'll submit a pic when I complete the cabinet on Monday. As far as a bezel goes, I've always had a hard time incorporating Glass or Plexi over the screens, I just don't see a look that suits me.

  I used to hide speakers behind a nice circular drilled out hole pattern, but then you get the issue of volume knob placement. This type of speaker has a nice grill, the volume is very accessable and even has a headphone jack.

[Buddabing]

  In the meantime, I have always like the look of this particular cabinet, and I plan to build another.  Adding a Neon ring for the sides would be a logical start. I've been messing around with LED's for use with translucent buttons and I have followed the LED tutorial closely, but anytime I hook up a string, they get very hot and I get concerned about burning the house down!

Please give more details on how your LEDs are connected.

[Kaytrim]

You have some good and bad in this build.  IMHO your buttons are spaced out a little to far apart.  You also have enough space to land a few planes on the control panel though it gives you plenty of room for Golden Tee.  The fit and polish on this cab is some of the best I have seen.  The colors are well matched and the artwork is nice and simple.  Overall it is a nice cab you have there.  Do you have any pics of the build or any of the other six cabs you have built previously?

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

7 cabs under your belt and you're just now joining the board?     

Seriously!   

I really like you cabinet - the only thing I'd change is the button spacing but that's a personal preference.  The craftmanship looks top notch - I hope I can build a cab that nice one of these days...

[golfboyusa]

Hey there Buddabing. I purchased three white LED's from Radio Shack rated at 3.6V 20 Mah. I hooked them up in series an should have had 4 volts going to each one. They got very hot very quickly. I can't imagine that the extra 1.2 volts being dispersed amongst the three would have made that much difference.

What do you think?

[golfboyusa]

Kaytrim,
You are the second person to point out the spacing of the buttons! I've always been happy with the spacing. I put 2" between the buttons. I could test a 1-1/2" spacing and see what happens.

I like the open control panel because Golden Tee is a big game for me.

I'll add some pics of previous projects along with some construction photos.

Thanks for your interest!

[golfboyusa]

Here's one I did with a 24" TV. The resolution is OK for Mame, but windows and surfing the web is almost impossible. I'll probably never do another cabinet with a TV.

[golfboyusa]

In my opinion, the best thing you can do for your cabinet is add plexiglass and graphics. I've yet to see a complete tutorial but if anyone has any questions, I'll explain how I do it.

John

[Chris G]

I hope I can build a cab that nice one of these days...

Not to take anything away from golfboy, but you are far too humble.

 
Chris

[Buddabing]

Hey there Buddabing. I purchased three white LED's from Radio Shack rated at 3.6V 20 Mah. I hooked them up in series an should have had 4 volts going to each one. They got very hot very quickly. I can't imagine that the extra 1.2 volts being dispersed amongst the three would have made that much difference.

What do you think?

I think you need a small resistor in series with your LEDs. Somewhere around 60 ohms should do it.

You might be okay with a quarter-watt resistor, but I would get a half-watt just to be safe.

[RayB]

I guess it doubles as a dining table for two.

 

[IG-88]

In my opinion, the best thing you can do for your cabinet is add plexiglass and graphics. I've yet to see a complete tutorial but if anyone has any questions, I'll explain how I do it.

John

By all means, do a tutorial. You obviously have excellent skills. Share with us un-edumacated 

[CheffoJeffo]

I guess it doubles as a dining table for two.

 

[somunny]

Looks like it's for sale.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/ele/310688505.html

[golfboyusa]

No. This cabinet went to a friend. I always post the last one I made online. If someone wants me to make one for them, I'll start another project.  I definitely am not going commercial. If I can draw someone into the mame community, I'll make a cabinet. But I'm just as willing to tell them how to make it on their own. I know it sounds kind of corny, but there are some people out there who still aren't aware of the mame community. When I got introduced I was helped along by a few people who didn't know me from Adam and made me feel welcome.

[theCoder]

I guess it doubles as a dining table for two.

No, it is much too small for a dining room table.  It's more like the size of a coffee table.  Just bolt the PC underneath, add 4 legs, and you're in business.

Looks nice.  Welcome to the forum.

[Donkey_Kong]

Looks like it's for sale.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/ele/310688505.html

This posting has been flagged for removal  Why was it removed? Looks like a great cab btw!

 

[Chris G]

Perhaps the part about playing 1000's of games on it? 

[golfboyusa]

Allright....enough jokes about the size of my control panels. Isn't a king size bed better than a queen?

  Let's talk about plexiglass. I was terrified of plexi until I just decided to start cutting. I usually get a piece from Home depot that's 30X40" for $19.99. I can usually get one CP plus the front and back of a 25x7" marquee cut out of one piece. A jigsaw and a router is a must to do quality work.
   I'll cut my control panel out of 5/8" MDF. Drill all the button, joystick and trackball holes. Use a small slotted router bit for the t-mold edging.
    I cannot stress enough that you need to make a slot around the edge at least 1/8" smaller than the width of your t-mold nipple. You definitely want to have to tap the t-mold into the slot.  No glue should have to be used.
   Test fit the t-mold on a scrap piece of MDF. The t-mold should end up being flush with the plexi once it's placed on top of the MDF. This is important because once you tap the t-mold into place, it will effectively hold the plexi flush with the top of the control panel.
   Once you have the CP cut to size, I lay it on top of the plexi and trace about 1/2" extra around the outside diameter. I bought a jigsaw bit specifically for plastic available at any hardware store. SLOWLY cut the perimeter of the tracing always making sure to keep the plexi flush between two pieces of wood to minimze vibration which will crack the plexi.  Then you lay the oversized plexi on top of the control panel and clamp it down so it won't move. Set your router bit to the correct height and cut the top. It's easy if your bit has the bearing guide on the bottom. The plexi should end up being perfectly flush with your CP edge. Use compressed air or a brush to keep any scraps of plastic off your work during this process, Stray scraps can scratch your plexi. You really need to keep the work flush at all times to cut down on vibration.
   Here's the scary part. Flip the whole thing over, so that the plexi is sandwiched between a solid piece of wood and your cut out contol panel. Use a sharp 1/2" wood bit and drill a hole in the center of each button, joystick and trackball hole. Wether you drill fast or slow, it still gets a bit hairy and the plexi seems to crack a bit, but never more than the circumference of the actual button hole.
   Once you finish the drilling, clean off the panel once again. Flip the panel back over so that the plexi is resting on top of the MDF. Clamp it down in place so that your edges match up again. Start your router and drop it into each drilled hole. Do not start the router while it is touching plexigalass, you will crack the plexi!
   We all use a trackball mounting plate. I always counter sink the plate into my panels. Fill in the edges with a little wood filler and sand smooth with the mounting plate. When it comes to routing the hole for the plexi around the trackball, you need to be carefull. At this point it is very easy to set your router at the wrong height and accidentally cut the metal of the mounting plate. It's easier to set your router bit too high and make an adjustment. Once you set it too low, you are in trouble.
  If you are feeling adventureous and want to mimic a Golden Tee machine, use a bit with a small chamfer, set your bit high enough so that it's just cutting the plexi and just trace around the inside edge of the trackball hole. You will end up with a 45 degree beveled edge for the trackball. It's a real classy touch. Remember, let the bearing of the bit be your guide. It's almost impossible to mess it up if you rely on the bearing.
   From here, I apply my graphics and cut out all the holes and edges with an exacto knife. Clean the plexi front and back and lay it on the CP. Attach the buttons and tap the t-mold into place. At this point you should have a great looking panel which will be held in place by the buttons and T-mold
  If anyone can add their ideas to make this process better, I'd be glad to hear it. Let me know if I've explained things poorly!

John

[golfboyusa]

I was trying to understand why I got flagged as well. I should not have implied that I would be including the ROMS. I will not include any roms in future postings. I knew better, and some guy on craig's list called me out on it. Absolutely my mistake.

[Chris G]

Nice walkthru, thanks.  I'm not planning to do plexi, but for the future - can the button holes successfully be cut with a drill/spade bit instead of the router?

Chris

[FrizzleFried]

The self-appointed "craigslist police force" is strong on some forums and EVERYTHING seems to get flagged.  You can't advertise a legitimate PSIII or Xbox 360 for sale here in Boise without these censoring ---uvulas--- doing their "part" and flagging it.

[golfboyusa]

Chris - I'd say no way. A spade bit would be practically impossible to control. The only reason I use a drill bit at all is to make the pilot hole for the router. The router takes over and cuts the plexi like butter.

[Chris G]

What router bit do you use?

[golfboyusa]

I use one that looks like this to cut practically everything.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_rndvr.html

[Chris G]

You use a round-over bit to cut a button hole? 

[golfboyusa]

Well, the bottom part of the bit is starts out vertical and it's more than enough to make the cut. I'm not saying that there isn't a better bit to use, but I have had much success with that bit. I don't mean to lead anyone else down a mickey mouse path. Did you have a better bit in mind?

[Chris G]

No - I've only VERY recently gotten into woodworking, so I'm trying to absorb as much info as I can from everyone.

Now golf, on the other hand, I can speak intelligently about... 

[FrizzleFried]

A good ole' hole saw is the easiest way to cut a button hole in plexi...cutting backwards.

[Chris G]

Backwards meaning from the underside of the plexi?

[Kaytrim]

cutting backwards meaning drill in reverse and melt your way through.

[FrizzleFried]

Correct...drill in reverse.

Also,  make sure your plexi is sitting on a piece of scrap wood you can cut in to,  DO NOT attempt to cut plexi without it sitting on this wood.  What I do is I cut out the wood (or metal) part first.  I then attach the plexi to the wood (drilling the small holes carefully...I usually go up in 3 stages,  very small,  small,  then the correct size).  Once attached,  use the holes you drilled in the wood as a guide and put the hole saw down the hole you drilled in the wood (or metal)...run the hole saw in reverse only using a VERY LITTLE bit of pressure.  NEVER stop the saw mid cut.  NEVER stop the saw until you have removed it from the hole.  The melted plexi will stick to the hole saw and you will have a hard time removing it without breaking the plexi.   Also,  don't use the guide-bit for the hole saw...only the saw itself and use the hole you already made in the wood/metal as the guide.

If you are careful,  it will come out perfectly...you WILL of course have to clean up the hole a little (there is usually bits of melted plastic around the edge that snap off with your finger).  I also usually use a dremel tool or file to round the hole edge as to not cause any scrapes, etc.

[superbigjay]

Hey there Buddabing. I purchased three white LED's from Radio Shack rated at 3.6V 20 Mah. I hooked them up in series an should have had 4 volts going to each one. They got very hot very quickly. I can't imagine that the extra 1.2 volts being dispersed amongst the three would have made that much difference.
What do you think?

I think you need a small resistor in series with your LEDs. Somewhere around 60 ohms should do it.
You might be okay with a quarter-watt resistor, but I would get a half-watt just to be safe.

You have:
12V ----- LED1 ----- LED2 ---- LED3 --- resistor ---- 0V

you want 3x3.6V for the leds (10. and 1.2V for the resistor.
The current spec is 20mA.
R = V/I = 1.2/0.020 = 60 ohms.

thus buddabing got it right!!!