Modular Control Panel *** NEW IDEA, Opinions wanted ***

[Kaytrim]

I posted this in my project thread but I want to get as much feedback on this idea as I can.

Some of you know that I working on a modular system for my control panel.  I have recently purchased two used Midway 49 way joysticks.  I am also going to have a new GPWiz49 card to interface with them.  With the capabilities of the 49 way sticks in combination with the GPWiz49 I really don't need to swap joysticks like I had originally thought I would.  With this I have decided to make a more permanent CP with only two swappable modules.

Below are some images created in CP Sketcher.  The first one is the full control panel.  I have moved the admin buttons off the bezel and onto the top area of the CP.  The boxes around the  action buttons are the swappable modules.  The next three pics are of sample modules that I am planning or thinking of planning (Trackball, Spinner, Stargate).

These modules will have connections automatically made when the module is locked in place.  These connections will either be USB or CAT-5 with the locking tab removed depending on the type of controls in the module.  I don't have the details on the connection system figured out yet but I have a few ideas that are not easily described yet.

If you have any ideas on how I can make this work or changes you want to suggest please feel free to reply to the thread.

Thanks, 
Kaytrim

[johnperkins21]

It's an interesting idea, and one I don't think I've seen before. Swapping out just the button panels seems like a good idea. Do you have a plan for how they will be secured, and then removed?

I'd love to see this working when you're done.

[NoOne=NBA=]

For myself, I don't see any reason to not go completely modular.

You are losing alot of the flexibility that a modular system would offer, as well as missing out on the ability to precisely mimic the original CP's for every game.
That ability, and the advantage of not having to buy the same control for several CP's where the driving factors in my conversion from my original swappable CP's to a modular system.

If you decide to add twin steering wheels with shifters, or twin tank controls, etc..., you are in for a huge retrofit.
I had to completely redesign my CP area for a modular system, even though it already had swappable CP panels.

[Kaytrim]

NoOne,

  I currently have a full modular system and I am not happy with the results, see my project thread.  My woodworking skills and tools are not first rate so the modules fit sloppy and slide around.  I want to positively lock the modules in place so they don't move around.  If I can at least permanently install the joysticks then I can live with the other modules being a little loose. 

The minimum area that the modules will take up will be determined by the trackball mount.  In my rough estimates that means a minimum module of 7" high by 8" wide.  This gives me plenty of room to mount a top fire joystick or possibly a wheel like the TT2 from GGG.  I don't play the racing games much so this is not a big issue.  I am more into Street Fighter, Neo-Geo, scrolling, trackball and pinball games though I do like ROBOTRON and Smash TV as well.  I might get a light gun later for some games but I don't see the technology at the point where I can justify the purchase.

I don't have the desire to spend a bunch of money to purchase controls that are only used for a few games that wouldn't get much playing time.  A good example of this is the Star Wars yoke.  I liked the Star Wars games and Roadblasters as well but I just can't see me shelling out $200+ for one control.  As far as the steering wheel I see most of the driving games needing to be in a sit-down cab with the shifter at your side.

I appreciate your input and reasons for a full modular system.  I had the same ideas when I started work and based my CP on Doc's Modular MAME.  I just didn't like the way mine turned out.

TTFN 

[Kaytrim]

Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know.  Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

[Texasmame]

Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know.  Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

Search for "doc's modular."  I based my modular panel on his.  The one thing I did change was the way the panels are secured.  He used wood dowels/holes and I used ball catches.

[Kaytrim]

Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know.  Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

Search for "doc's modular."  I based my modular panel on his.  The one thing I did change was the way the panels are secured.  He used wood dowels/holes and I used ball catches.

yea my original CP test was based on Doc's but the modules were "loose as a goose".  Then I went to velcro and it is just about as bad.  I plan on compleatly rebuilding my CP box from scratch as there are many things I want to change.  Do you have a pic of your modules and the "ball catches"? 

more pics here





Thanks, 
Kaytrim

[steveh]

I am afraid i will end up with the same thing so i think i am just going to make the whole damn thing swappable.  This is going to end up with more work. and i will need more room to store the cp's  but i figure if i make one that works for most games i should be good.  with the option to add more later. 

[Kaytrim]

I am afraid i will end up with the same thing so i think i am just going to make the whole damn thing swappable.  This is going to end up with more work. and i will need more room to store the cp's  but i figure if i make one that works for most games i should be good.  with the option to add more later. 

I plan to have storage in the cab for the modules.  The kick panel will be two sided.  One side for the coin door with the computer stuff.   The other side with a pullout rack for the modules. 

I think that my locking mechanizim will be something along the line of a screw knob with a t-nut.  the screw knob would press against a metal plate on the module locking it in place with the pressure.  This is basically what I am doing now only with a shim along the side, the end result will just be more elegant.  I have other ideas such as using a door latch and other things along that line.  I'll let you all know how my testing goes.  I am still open to ideas. 

My basic reason to do this is for my 8-year-old son and other guests to be able to easily switch modules.  All I will need then is a front end that will show what the CP is supposed to look like when they choose a game and automatically switch my 49-way joysticks when the game starts.

l8r 
Kaytrim

[_) (V) (-)]

This is pretty cool Kaytrim!
Are you absolutely set on the 'auto' connection thing though?

Reason I ask is that you are going to need a lot of pins in the receptacle ends of the connectors and depending on where you mount it under the deck, all of your modules will need to align perfectly with it. That's going to restrict your placement options a bit. Mating harnes connectors would be so much easer, maybe color code them for ease if identification.

Most of the connections will go unused except for whenever that certain module is plugged in. Some components (I.E. trackball)  may not respond well to the 'hot swappable' configuration. 

If I understand correctly, you want to use a drop in module board. Could you route out a grove or lip along the inner edge of the hole in the CP deck and have a matching lip or mating surface on the outer edge of the module? If you can keep your tolerances tight they shouldn't move around too much but you'll most likely still end up with a visible seem.

I was wondering if you used magnetic strips along the surfaces of this mating edge, how well they would hold em in place and how likely would they be to cause interference with your controls. You shouldn't need much holding power really. I'm thinking them sheets of 'earth magnet' material, it's very plyable stuff and cuts easy with a scissors. Just not sure how you'd affix it to the modules. 

Eitherway I am interested in the idea and look forward to seeing how you work it out!

[(+_+)]

Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.

[SavannahLion]

I was wondering if you used magnetic strips along the surfaces of this mating edge, how well they would hold em in place and how likely would they be to cause interference with your controls. You shouldn't need much holding power really. I'm thinking them sheets of 'earth magnet' material, it's very plyable stuff and cuts easy with a scissors.

Unless there's some sort of ultra sensitive PC component sitting right there, I doubt the magnets would affect the CP very much. Depending on the magnet(s) he uses, he could utilize it as a contact point even, perhaps for ground. I've encountered false panels where the magnets used to hold the panel in place was also an electrical contact for fixtures on the panel itself. It'll probably never pass UL inspection if you use 120v* like what I've seen, but for 5v and lower with such low amperage, it would probably be ideal. Work in some sort of polarity and you could ensure the panels are dropped in in the correct orientation as well.

*Don't Apple laptops use magnets for their power connection?

[Kaytrim]

CykoMF,

Thanks for your input.  As far as the button, trackball and spinner modules I wouldn't need much holding power.  I like your idea of milling a lip into the CP and a rabbit on the module.  My only concern is if it would hold up to the pounding that a trackball can receive.  If I were to add a top fire joystick module then things would really get moving around.  I don't think that your idea of refrigerator magnets would do the trick here either.  They are easy to work with but don't have much holding power.  Remember the idea I gave you on your CP as far as locking it in place?  I am thinking on using something along that line here. or the screw lock as I mentioned above.

As far as the auto connection.  I don't see more than 7 buttons on a module so a single CAT-5 connection would be sufficient.  Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.  The trackball and spinner would have a single USB connection because those interfaces would have places for mouse buttons on them.  The weight of the module alone may not be enough to maintain the connection so I need a physical locking mechanizim somehow.  I also need someway to pop the module up so I can remove it once it is unlocked.  Some kind of spring loaded pin should do the trick.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.

That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above.  I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either.  Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.

[(+_+)]

I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.

[Kaytrim]

I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.

[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] 

[johnperkins21]

As far as the auto connection.  I don't see more than 7 buttons on a module so a single CAT-5 connection would be sufficient.  Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that. 

A cat 5 has 4 pair, while 7 buttons requires 7 pair (NO and Ground). Am I missing something?

Yes... yes I am. Daisy chain the ground, so 7 NO and 1 Ground for 4 pair. Makes sense. Carry on...

[NoOne=NBA=]

Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.

I would highly suggest using phone cord for the lighting cables.
That way you can't accidentally plug a joystick into the lighting power supply, and vice-versa.

[Kaytrim]

Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.

I would highly suggest using phone cord for the lighting cables.
That way you can't accidentally plug a joystick into the lighting power supply, and vice-versa.

A phone cord will not have enough wires if there are 7 buttons on a module.  The CAT-5 connections will be fixed so there is no way of confusing them.  You just put the module in and the connections are made for you.

[Kaytrim]

Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP.  Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work.  The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place.  The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP.  One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls.  Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed.  I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.

Any questions or comments please post here. 

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[(+_+)]

I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.

[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] 

LOL. I'm laughing at myself and think I'm a little red in the face too. I only considered the snap in. 

Time to hopefully redeem myself. How about a system of removable modules with a tongue on the front end and one of those snap in window latches in the front.

http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02009651-lg.jpg

You can have a little access panel in the front and add a couple of small springs so it the module pops up on release. Between the tongue on one end and the latch on the other it would probably stay quite snug. It would also realease quickly too. Don't know if you know exactly what I mean but I do have the picture in my head if that counts for anything.

[Texasmame]

Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.

That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above.  I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either.  Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.

That's them.

They're plenty fine for panels.  Takes a good yank on the very end of the panel to dislodge them.  Cab takes a beating on Robotron and the never give.

[Texasmame]

Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP.  Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work.  The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place.  The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP.  One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls.  Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed.  I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.

Any questions or comments please post here. 

TTFN 
Kaytrim

Looks like a good amount of work when you can just use the cable method Doc used.  I used that and just used a rack-mount CAT5 for the female jacks. 

I would have concerns about the epoxy holding up in the long haul, too.

My two cents. . .

[(+_+)]

If they can take a Robotron beating, then they'll outlast anything you can throw at it. Believe it or not (and I may have mentioned this before), I saw a guy once go slingshoting to the floor after violently trying to avoid one of the enforcers crosshair bullets. His hand must have been sweaty. He actually fell on the floor beside me. It was funny to see.

Kaytrim is right though. You wouldn't be able to yank a button out.

[Kaytrim]

I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.

[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] 

LOL. I'm laughing at myself and think I'm a little red in the face too. I only considered the snap in. 

Time to hopefully redeem myself. How about a system of removable modules with a tongue on the front end and one of those snap in window latches in the front.

http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02009651-lg.jpg

You can have a little access panel in the front and add a couple of small springs so it the module pops up on release. Between the tongue on one end and the latch on the other it would probably stay quite snug. It would also realease quickly too. Don't know if you know exactly what I mean but I do have the picture in my head if that counts for anything.

Now my friend we are on the same page.    I actually plan on stopping at a hardware store tonight and pick up the necessary items to make this work.  The only difference is that I plan on using door latches instead of window latches.  They are more robust and will be able to deal with the necessary tension on the springs.

[Kaytrim]

Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.

That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above.  I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either.  Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.

That's them.

They're plenty fine for panels.  Takes a good yank on the very end of the panel to dislodge them.  Cab takes a beating on Robotron and the never give.

These would be fine for latching the entire CP down in the back with a piano hinge in the front.

Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP.  Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work.  The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place.  The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP.  One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls.  Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed.  I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.

Any questions or comments please post here. 

TTFN 
Kaytrim

Looks like a good amount of work when you can just use the cable method Doc used.  I used that and just used a rack-mount CAT5 for the female jacks. 

I would have concerns about the epoxy holding up in the long haul, too.

My two cents. . .

I want something that my kids and guests don't have to know anything about the cab other than they need to swap the modules.  This way they don't need to have a degree in engineering.  Just release the one in the CP and slap in another one. 

They way I am planing these connection there shouldn't be much stress on the epoxy.  The epoxy I plan on using is a metal type, comes in a tube and looks and acts like clay until it hardens.  I used some of this to fix the lid sensor switch on a washer.  That lid comes crashing down quite a bit and this stuff doesn't bend, break or wear out.

[GregorDV]

I'm planning on making a Doc-wannabe modular control panel also.  According to Doc's pages, the trifecta of the dowels, holes, and lip on top keep things pretty stable, but it makes me nervous.  It seems to me that the dowels/holes would keep things pretty solid in the x/y plane, but I'm curious how often you would harf on a joystick and have the front lip of the panel lift up.

Inspired by our friends at the PA turnpike, I was thinking of putting a strip of Dual-Lock velcro (http://www.fastenation.com/duallock.tmpl?cart=1171735095245364) along the front just to keep the Z axis solid.  This stuff is dynamite! My only concern is that I will either need to route out the front some small amount to ensure that I have solid wood-wood contact, but the dual-lock will still bond.

I've also toyed with using an electromagnet or rare earth magnets to keep the z axis solid, but those seem more finnicky.

Has anybody done a Doc-like modular panel with the rods and used it extensively?  Is it necessary to clamp down the front?  I'm also worried that with constant changing, the wood rods will get smushed, broken, or sloppy.

[Kaytrim]

GregorDV,

I started with Doc's original plans and it was difficult to keep the necessary tolerances for a solid CP.  Doc used ball catches similar to those you find in a cabinet to lock down the joystick modules.  I did the same and they held down rather well.  I have also tried Velcro and it works but the modules still move in both cases.  The current setup that I have uses the Velcro and I still have to jam a shim in one side to make things solid.

The sloppiness is most noticeable in the joysticks and this is why I am going to permanently mount them and have modules for the other controls.  I have everything that I need to start building this new version except the MDF.  I'll be getting that later this afternoon and hope to get started on the build. 

I'll be posting pics as I go in this thread so everyone can follow along, make comments and ask questions.

TTFN 
kaytrim

[Doc-]

  Using my design, there is some work needed to fit the panels properly.  Most important is a clean cut on the supporting wood - particularly the fit where the panels slip under the bezel.  This gives the panels their lateral stability and keeps them from rocking.  I had a friend who was a bit careless here and he had some rocking.

  Cutting all of the panels at once helps since you can set the saw rail once for each panel size and then rip them all at once.

  A second point is that almost all of the dowel holes required some adjustment.  It is just very difficult to get a very precise hole using manual tools.  I started with a hole the same size as the dowel, then compensated by hand fitting each one, auguring out just a little more material from the holes in the bottom of each panel on the side needed to get proper alignment.  This took a little time, but made for very small gaps between panels and also resulted in better stability.

  The cat5/USB wiring is described on my web site (in signature) and has also held up well over time.  In fact the cabinet was done in 2003, so it is almost 4 years old now and gets frequent use - at least several times a week.  We also swap panels regularly.  I've only had to do very minor repairs - one or two loose wires, one panel recovered, etc...

  I certainly encourage you to improve on the design!

  Good luck on your modular system! 

Cheers!
Doc-

[Kaytrim]

Thanks for the encouragement Doc.  I have had your cab in mind since I came across this site a few years ago.  I didn't like the frankenpanels that always showed up on other cabs.  As I liked several games with various controls I had to come up with a system like yours. 

I went to Lows yesterday and got the MDF and they cut it down to manageable pieces for me to put into my car.  One of the pieces was cut specifically for the modules.  Now all I need to do is cut out the top and base pieces.  Then manufacture then necessary parts for the module system.  This is going to be a good sized CP 36x18 but all the modules will be the same size. 8x10.  I'll take pics as I go to document the construction process.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

I started the manufacture of the parts over the weekend.  I'll have picks up later as they progress.  After some mock ups and rethinking my CP is getting larger than I would have liked but the current size is 36x17.  The top will overlap the sides and front of the box by 1 inch. Below is an image of the current layout.  The big black rectangles are the module placements.  They are 8x10

  I made a big bobo over the weekend.  I cut out the pieces for the CP without verifying my final measurements.  The piece I cut was 30x17.  I still might be able to salvage the CP though.  The space between the module holes is 6"  All I have to do is cut the top where the left side of the right hole will be and splice in a 6" piece with glue and dowels.  After it is sanded and CPO is applied nobody will know the difference.

[Kaytrim]

Got some time tonight with the pics in hand.  For starters I spent tonight fixing my bobo on the CP top.  I'll have to recut the front and back of the box later.  As planed I cut the top where the right side of the player one module hole is.  I also cut the 6x17 plug and dowels. (see pic 1).  Next I drilled the holes in the three pieces and aligned them for gluing.  There was a lot of redrilling to get the panels aligned with the dowels in place.  I didn't put the glue in place until I was sure of the fit.  I didn't use regular wood glue here because I wanted a good solid repair.  Instead I used Loctite construction adhesive on the joint and Elmer's Ultimate Glue in the holes. (see pic 2)  I finally took two scrap pieces of MDF and screwed them in the panels on the bottom of the CP to keep them straight and true while the glue sets.

[Kaytrim]

Now for the module release mechinizims.  I just have a start on these but it is a rather important piece.  When I want to remove a module from the panel I don't have a way to pull them out.  For this purpose I created some spring loaded pins.  The first pic shows the raw materials from Ace Hardware.  The spring is 1 7/8" long like this and is slightly less than 3/4" when fully compressed.  The fender washers allow the 3/16" rod to slide through.  Next I took and cut 4 pieces 3" long from the rod then hammered one end so the washer would not slide off.  After adding some flux I used a torch and lead free solder to connect them together. (see pic 2)

Next I cut some pieces of wood and drilled a hole in them for the rods.  I then roughed the exposed end and added a washer.  The epoxy I am using here is like clay and cures rock hard. (see pic 3)  Sorry about the focus here it is called Steel Epoxy Putty.  In pic 4 you can see the final result while the epoxy cures.  These will be placed in two of the corners to push the modules up when the lock is released.  More on the lock later.

[Kaytrim]

Finally the CAT 5 connections.  I started with the female connectors a metal plate and my epoxy putty. (see pic 1)  I have about 2 min of work time before the epoxy starts to cure pics 2 & 3 show the end result.  After the epoxy cures I take two cables with the lock tab removed and attach them to another metal plate and while the epoxy cures I put the connectors together so they will mate later. (pic 4)

That is all for this update.  Please let me know what you think so far.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[freckleface]

Well, you could've made a small bracket for each, or each pair, and bolted it to the plate.

[Donkey_Kong]

Few things here Kaytrim.

1st- I'm seriously too dumb to figure out what you are talking about with the whole "modular CP". Naaaa naa na na na...Don't try to explain it. I will just look at the pictures, smile & nod my head pretending to understand.

2nd- You have like Cat 5 plugs and stuff on your CP. uhhh. I don't want to go there. Me 

3rdly- I believe FRANKENMAME might somehow come to be the sickest thing this place has ever seen. I'm not sure yet...but it just might be.

Seriously, Good Luck Buddy!

[Kaytrim]

Few things here Kaytrim.

1st- I'm seriously too dumb to figure out what you are talking about with the whole "modular CP". Naaaa naa na na na...Don't try to explain it. I will just look at the pictures, smile & nod my head pretending to understand.

2nd- You have like Cat 5 plugs and stuff on your CP. uhhh. I don't want to go there. Me 

3rdly- I believe FRANKENMAME might somehow come to be the sickest thing this place has ever seen. I'm not sure yet...but it just might be.

Seriously, Good Luck Buddy!

You said "don't try to explain" well I have always been know for being bull headed.    I'll just let the pics speak for themselves.  The CAT-5 plugs      , get your head out of the gutter.    As far as being the sickest thing, time will tell and you had better not. 

Thanks for the sentiments, time for me to get working on it.  I am going to have some stuff coming from GGG hopefully soon and I want to be ready when the package gets here.

[Kaytrim]

I didn't get much done last night.  Real life got in the way.  I was able to check my CP expansion though.  It came out straight and solid.    I filled in the cracks with wood putty and sanded it down.  Now I need to true up the holes and make sure they are the same size before I cut the modules that will fit into them.  I also was able to expand the CP box and get that glued up.  I hope to be able to take some pics tonight and continue with the module fittings.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[Donkey_Kong]

I didn't get much done last night.  Real life got in the way.  I was able to check my CP expansion though.  It came out straight and solid.    I filled in the cracks with wood putty and sanded it down.  Now I need to true up the holes and make sure they are the same size before I cut the modules that will fit into them.  I also was able to expand the CP box and get that glued up.  I hope to be able to take some pics tonight and continue with the module fittings.

TTFN 
Kaytrim

Can't wait to see the pics man! I think I'm understanding this more now. (I might take heat for asking this but oh well) When you say modular you mean like multiple swappable CP's? There is a lot of writing above and I will not lie and say I read it all. Then I think I'm understanding the Cat 5. Where did you get the idea for the Cat5. Has someone done this before you or is this exclusive to the Frankenmame?

Either way... Nice Work!!

[Kaytrim]

The original idea of a modular control panel is not mine.  Nor is the idea original to Doc but he is the one that documented it real well.  See his web page here.

My idea is to have just portions of the CP modular.  The joysticks and admin buttons will be permanent while the action buttons will be on modules where I can swap in a trackball or spinner or another joystick, just about anything.