Commodore 1084 issue

[ChadTower]

This one is a bit odd.     I found a nice looking Commodore 1084 at the town recycling station.  Brought it home, no juice at all.  So I opened it up and there was something hacked (badly) in line with the power cord right before it goes into the power supply board.  It is rusted and at first I thought it was a headphones jack with something broken off inside.  After taking it out it looks like an old small pot.  I opened it up and it disentegrated, it's the only rusted thing on this monitor.  It was only connected to hot and neutral, ground was left as is.  It definitely didn't look like it was put in there new as it seems in far worse shape than the rest of the monitor.  It probably isn't original although they did drill a hole in the case for it if it's not.

So, I'm sitting here looking at the two power wires coming from the board, blue and brown.  The two wires in the cord (that aren't green/ground that is still connected) are the expected white/black.  The first main question:  how do I know which to put to which?  White to blue or white to brown (or black to blue or black to brown)?

I can get pics of any of this stuff if necessary, particularly what is left of the pot that was hacked in line (twisted, wrapped in napkin, covered in scotch tape),

BTW, did pull and buzz the fuse, it's good.  If it still gets no juice once I get the cord reconnected, I'll trace the circuit and try to see where it's failing.

[ChadTower]

Looking at this a bit closer, the wire used to hack this in line with the power cord is 20g at the most.  That pot probably fried in short order and that's why it was practically dust when I opened it.

EDIT:  got a pic.

[ChadTower]

Got it working.  Managed to track down the power supply PCB rewiring instructions on a C64 fan site which gave me brown=live, blue=neutral, green=grnd.  I then looked up standard grounded power cord wiring which gave me black=live, white=neutral, green=grnd.

brown <-> black
blue    <-> white
green  <-> green

Connected the wires, fired it up, BLAM, tube glow and power LED.  Got a signal source, hooked it up, and I see picture.  Still needs adjusting and maybe caps, but for free, it's a great test bench monitor.


EDIT:  pics

[Harry Potter]

Gotta say, those have got to be the best monitors around. Had mine for close to 15 years and the only problem I ever had was with the yoke. Picture is still as sharp as is was the day I got it and the amount of stuff you can plug into it..... yeeehaaaa! 

[ChadTower]

Yeah, now I have to go making some cables for the RGB functions.   

EDIT:  oh, and the power button has LED but doesn't seem to do anything.  I need to pull that sucker out and have a look.

[ChadTower]

Looking again at this... I think maybe that pot hacked in may have been some type of switch that had parts broken off.  Hard to tell with all of the mechanical bits gone.  Perhaps this was someone's way of "fixing" the power switch issue.  I'll just pull the power switch and fix or replace it.

[Harry Potter]

Yeah, now I have to go making some cables for the RGB functions.   

Do you have the one with the nasty 6 pin DIN connector or SCART? I got the former and making cables for it is a pain in the ass.

[ChadTower]

Din.  Shouldn't be that hard, it actually has two DIN connectors IIRC (can't see it now).  I'm guessing a 6 and a 9?

[Harry Potter]

The 9 is for TTL RGB. Hopefully I'll never have to use that one.

[ChadTower]

I don't even know what that is yet.   

[Jess--]

ttl RGB

is pure rgb with no variation i.e. 100% red or 0% red (nothing in between)
set your video card to 16 colours for a similar effect

[ChadTower]

Cool!