Got my project started much sooner than planned...[3 years later, almost done]

[Sir Auros]

With my friend (known here as weizur) moving to Texas, I was able to get his NFL Blitz cabinet for peanuts. Let him keep the control panel (I want to make a 4p one) and the monitor since it's hard to use that in a MAME conversion and it broke as soon as he got the cabinet home a year ago.

Might put up some pics of the cabinet later, but I really don't know when the next step in the project will start. Don't really have the funds right now to get started and I certainly won't have room for it anywhere but in storage at my parents' until sometime next year.

My biggest worries so far are:
1 - Getting a 25" TV to fit without having to take the TV out of its case.
2 - Building a control panel from scratch for a decent price.
3 - Getting the light and speakers inside to work without using the original power supply and whatnot. May replace them with PC speakers and a flourescent lamp that'll just always be turned on.

[Soulcon]

1. Finding a 25" TV won't be that hard really you can find one that will fit nicely I am sure.  Takeing the case off is alot easier then everyone makes it out to be.  Once it is off you have nice bolt holes to mount it with and Bezels fit wonderfully . But if you are not comfortable with it you can always find the right size if search around a bit.

2. Control panels for me aren't that bad in price wise. Hit places lik Ultimarc they have the best prices. Trackballs for 35 I think, Joy's for 15, and buttons are definatly cheaper and they come with teh switchs. Not to mention Dandy Andy. Who will bend over backwards to keep your buisness. And through out a kind word about your projects when he sees them. Outstanding buisness owner! For spinners hit up Oscar controls they have spinners for all price brackets. The wood if you get press board or MDF will cost you next to nothing.

3. At your local hardware shop just grab a under cabinet 14 inch or 16 inch flourescent. It comes in a bubble pack and costs about 8 to 12 bucks. Definatly cheaper then trying to wire what ya got into a working multicab. But I would suggest if you are refurbishing the cab to try and repair anything you have currently for better nostalgia .

Good luck

-Soul

[Sir Auros]

There it is in all its stripped glory...taking up part of our dining room until my wife makes me take it to my parents' for storage.

Certainly won't be refurbishing it since I have no interest in NFL Blitz, but might just leave the sides alone or consider making it look like a Gauntlet Legends cab. since I want a 4 player control panel anyway.

[SirPeale]

The cab is nice, but what I really want is some pictures of your Transformers!

[Sir Auros]

The cab is nice, but what I really want is some pictures of your Transformers!

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/luflora/Collectionpics/index1.htm There's the whole collection in all its nerdly glory.

[SirPeale]

*drools*

You've got the 20th anniversary Optimus Prime.  I envy you.

Unicron as well.  it's on clearance @ KB Toys for like $25, but I just don't have the money.  Kills me every time I look @ it.

[Sir Auros]

Been hearing that 20th Anniversary Prime is going for $25 at some Walmarts too. Isn't at mine though, but since I got him earlier, guess that doesn't really matter.

[HaRuMaN]

Sir Auros!  You're at Virginia Tech?!@  So am I...  cool.  Another MAMEr here.

[AGGIEZ]

NICE Castle Greyskull!

[Sir Auros]

Now, almost three years later, I finally not only have the thing in a house where I can work on it, but also have it in the house.

2004 - Apartment, nowhere to work.
2005 - Rental house with nowhere to work, cabinet at relative's.
2006 - House with room to work, but no way to transport cabinet.
2007 - Finally brought cabinet to house.

[BobA]

Good thing you weren't in a hurry.   

Good luck on your cab and control panel.  Keep us informed,

[Sir Auros]

No new pics, but it basically looks the same as the pic above, only with some of the screws for the power supply removed and some of the interior wires taken out of their brackets. I need to sort out what wires I need and what I can get rid of next.

To do list:

• Remove light
• Figure out if there's a way to reuse the original speakers or if they should be stripped
• Find the missing keys or figure out how to replace them or the locks
• Begin construction of the control panel
• Order CP parts
• Decide what to use for video
• Assemble a computer
• Design and print a marquee
• Mount the TV
• Set up MAME and a frontend
• Wire the ipac4

I'll cross out items on that list as I complete them.

I did have a few questions if nobody reading this would mind...

1 - Have there been any major innovations in monitor tech. since Project Arcade came out? I mean, are there monitors that are easier and less scary to use? I have the monitor mounting brackets still in the cab, but no monitor. I was going to just use a TV, but I still worry about mounting that and getting a bezel that looks decent.

2 - I was perusing Ultimarc's site today and reading up on the ipac (always planned on using this), and a blurb at the bottom caught my attention. Will the coin input for the ipac only work with a coin button, and not with the coindoor? I wanted to have it set up so that I had the option of using tokens or hidden quarter buttons.

3 - Where can I find control panel templates? I made a layout using CPsketcher, but last year when I thought I'd get to work on my cabinet during the summer, I found a place online that was selling templates for a four player control panel. I think it may have been Slikstik, but I didn't see any on their site recently.

Will keep this updated with pics as progress is made. Hopefully, this isn't going to take another three years.

[amadama]

Hi Sir Auros,
To answer your questions:
1) Monitors are still pretty much the same now as they were in the early days (excpet maybe now you can get lcd monitors). The challenges of mounting remain the same. Your easiest (but most expensive option will be to get a monitor of the same size that came with your cab originally (25" I think) There are several 24.8" arcade monitors for sale.
2) Most coin mech's use a simple switch to detect when the coin has gone in. You can wire your ipac to this just fine. I think they just put that on their web site to claim that their product should not be used for commercial purposes.
3) don't know about this...
Good luck,
Alex

[Green Giant]

3)  If you are just looking for a way to layout your panel, grab a big piece of cardboard and start drawing.  Then if it looks ok, cut out some holes, and drop in your parts.  This gives a good temporary feel. 

For ideas, just look at the project examples.  This topic, http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59359.0 , just has pictures of control panels.  Most templates out there are just the proximity of the 6/7 button layout to the control panel, single 8 1/2" x 11" sheet.  Since everyone on here has there own feel towards distance, you can place it anywhere on the wood. 

I wouldn't buy the slikstik template unless you really like the layout of the buttons.  If you are looking for dimensions to cut the wood, I am sure someone would help you out.  They don't really require that much woodworking to get to a box.  The hard part is figuring out your button layout and artwork design.

If you are looking for artwork templates to be placed on your control panel, check out mamemarquees.  For my control panel artwork, I hired SNAAKE to do the work for me.  Wasn't much and everything looks sweet.

[Sir Auros]

Today I ordered an ipac4, four happ ultimates, 20 pushbuttons with horizontal switches, players 1-4 buttons, and 6 buttons to use for coin inserts and special buttons.

Last week I snagged a new computer at Best Buy on the cheap and have replaced my old computer with that, so I can use my older computer for MAME.

When I was messing around with the old computer hooked up to a TV via S-video, I must have changed something in the video options, so when it boots, it no longer defaults to S-video. However, I had a similar problem before because the mobo is set up in such a way that the video card can short out under the right conditions. I'm going to fool around with that some more, but I'm still hoping to be able to use a TV as my output. It's really tough to be able to make out any text, though.

As far as gutting the original cabinet, I've taken out the power supply/transformer and disconnected some nonessential wires, but nothing major. I did find today that there's some yellowish mold growing near the speakers and I still have some spiders to vacuum out near the light in the marquee.

[Sir Auros]

Really wanted to update this thread with new pics, but my digital camera seems to be dying. Batteries last all of two minutes and the focus messes up frequently. 

Anyway, got my ipac4 yesterday and all my buttons and joysticks except for one red Happ ultimate today. My wife and I messed around with a piece of cardboard and made a rough template for the control panel. We're looking at a four-player CP that's going to be about 50-52 inches wide. The mock-up looks ok with the cabinet (isn't the Blitz/Gauntlet Legends cab wider than most?), but I wonder if anyone thinks this is too wide.

I didn't do any measurements between the each player's layout, just stood there pretending to move the joysticks and eyeballed it all.

[(+_+)]

Hurry up before you die and miss out on all the fun. 

[Sir Auros]

I know this thread's three years old, but now that I finally have a place to work on the cabinet and have it here, I feel like things are moving along pretty quickly and that I can have this done within the next two or three weeks, if not sooner.

[Green Giant]

We're looking at a four-player CP that's going to be about 50-52 inches wide.
but I wonder if anyone thinks this is too wide.

I didn't do any measurements between the each player's layout, just stood there pretending to move the joysticks and eyeballed it all.

If it looks good to you and more importantly your wife, then it is the right size.  As long as it is removable so there is no problem getting it through doors.

[Sir Auros]

I'm going to try to use the existing mounts, so it should be removeable. Even if those aren't solid enough, I will make sure to have the CP be detachable without much hassle.

Quick questions about speakers. Should I use the original speakers and hack a cheap PC speaker's amp? I know this is possible from reading the book, but is it worthwhile? Could I use a subwoofer with this if I pick up a cheap 2.1 system?

It sounds good to me because then I could leave the original speakers in and not have to worry about mounting new speakers or covering the part of the grill that the new ones wouldn't cover, and if I can hack the amp to speaker wires, what's keeping me from splicing longer wires onto the volume control so I can put a volume control knob somewhere on the control panel?

Finally, should I keep asking questions like this in my project thread, or should I start threads in the topic-specific forums?

[theCoder]

Ask away.  You get more replies if you ask specific questions.

Regarding your amp/speakers, I'd pick up a cheap PC speaker amp from your local Goodwill and give it a try.  It should not kill the existing speakers.  If it works, great.  All you have to loose is a few bucks and a few hours.  If you don't like the sound, or want something with a bit more punch, lots of people use the 2.1 systems.  If you go that route, you'd probably want to mount the midranges where the existing speakers are.

Welcome back & good luck with the build.

[Sir Auros]

Ok, turns out my digital camera doesn't want to cut on with any sort of battery power, but will come on with an AC adaptor plugged in. It also has trouble focusing, so apologies for the one pic that's really out of focus...incidentally, if anyone knows if digital cameras are worth having repaired, please let me know.


Cardboard CP mockup. The player on the left is going to move in closer to player 1 and the start buttons will be centered better.

Let me know if this sounds like a bad idea, but I'm going to take the measurements for how close each of these sets of controls are and handmake (with a compass and ruler) individual templates for each player's controls. Then, using the measurements from the cardboard, I'll secure the individual templates to my MDF and cut from there. I'll try it out with a scrap piece first, but I'm optimistic. I figure I can center them and cut the edges for the top of the CP after I've drilled all the input holes.


This is the extent of the work I've done on the cab since I brought it home. The speakers will probably go back in if I can get them working with hacked PC speakers. I may or may not recycle the wires when I'm wiring the CP. The transformer and power supply, I have no use for, so I'll probably offer those up in the BST forum.


Label on the transformer/power supply. Anyone know if it's worth anything for reuse?


I will be adding two more coin mechs, but these should be ok once I sort the wires. I need to get into the coinbox, but I've never had a key for the lock to that door. I think I'll try and drill it out?


Finally, does anyone have any good ideas for cleaning yellow mold out of a cabinet made of MDF? I'm guessing a wet sponge is out of the question.

EDIT - D'oh. Imageshack usually works.


edit by moderator: you got the tags wrong.  Fix'd.

[Sir Auros]

Made some templates on cardstock last night with a lockable compass and a ruler. Wish I had a copier or my scanner had drivers for Vista, because I had to handmake a copy (using measurements, not tracing) of each template and now that I've used them, I won't have them anymore.

Here's the templates mounted onto my plywood. I decided to drill the holes first, then cut the top of the panel based on that, and then I'll measure, cut, and assemble the CP box afterwards.


Here's player 1 and 3 with the pilot holes drilled in the templates.


My technique for drilling the holes was to make pilot holes, then drill through the first two or three layers of plywood on the top, then flip the wood and drill through the back. Since the top layer is already cut, there's no splintering to be had and I didn't have to mess with another piece of wood underneath. The holes really are very clean, the bits that look like they might be splinters are actually just the cardstock templates. Oh, and there's a weird optical illusion on that diamond pattern. The two pairs look like they're not spaced equally, but Sr. Regla says they're both equidistant.




I took a break after taking this last pic, because the holesaw was getting really hot and it was starting to stay still in the hole while the drill kept going, which of course doesn't accomplish anything. I hope it just needs a break to cool down (I need one for lunch), and that I can use it again later without having to get a new one.

[Sir Auros]

Finished the holes I had made templates for with little trouble. I had to keep tightening the chuck, but didn't have to stop again. I did have to take the saw out of the hole every now and then to blow out some sawdust, because it would actually start smoking and burn. Didn't know that was a possibility!

My wife was a GREAT help getting our straightedge/fence/piece of unused baseboard lined up and clamped so that we could cut the top of the CP. The player 3 and 4 controls are oriented at 45 degree angles and we decided to keep the cut parallel to them. Unfortunately, I am going to have to break out a miter box (I really want a powered miter saw, but can't justify the cost since disposable income is going to MAME this month) to make the box underneath the top. The CP top is a monster at 56.5", but it doesn't seem so huge in front of the Midway cabinet.

I tried to diagram the box tonight, but didn't really get anywhere other than take some measurements. I decided to hack the cheap speakers I got from Big Lots last night, and they're working with the OG speakers in the cabinet. The pic below shows the messy, but functional as a proof-of-concept job.

Tomorrow we'll make plans for the box underneath and start work on that and shop around some more for some sort of covering. I'm thinking of black vinyl or seeing how much a local printing place would charge.

My design plans for the box underneath the CP top call for an open section near the bottom for a slide-out tray for a keyboard and optical trackball, so I need to figure out just how much I can slope since I need at least 2.5" clearance for the mouse, plus wood thickness, plus joysticks and buttons for players 1 and 2.

[Sir Auros]

Ran into an impasse yesterday when I realized that with the 45 degree angles on the CP top combined with the slope of the cabinet would create some angles beyond my carpentry skills. My father in-law came over today to help plan the CP box, and we came up with this solution.

Two angled sides without a real box, but a lip underneath the CP to hide the buttons instead. It may not look great when it's finished, but it's doable. To secure the top, I was going to use a continuous hinge (aka piano hinge), but it seems impossible to find one that's four inches wide, and that's a little more permanent for the top than I'd like.

There will be a bar going from the shorter side of the angled sides, and I'm now thinking of attaching blocks to the underside of the CP top in the corner where the sides meet the bar. I'll also be adding some other blocks near where the CP top meets the monitor area and using the velcro trick there.

I'm concerned with fitting in a sliding keyboard shelf now, since there isn't a huge amount of clearance at the lower end of the CP.

1 - Holes for buttons, joys, and carriage bolts are mostly complete, except for the j-stick in the middle. Haven't gotten that joy yet.
2 - Angled sides mounted.
3 - Close up of angled sides.
4 - CP top sitting on the mounts.

[Sir Auros]

I don't know what I'm going to get done today, but could someone recommend a good frontend for me? I'm going to be using a TV connected via s-video, and I would like something with text that's easy to read on a TV. I'll also be using an ipac4 and would prefer something that doesn't have commands that would conflict with that. I have MAME32 on there now (which is what I've always used), but I can't even read the text for most of the options because it's just too small and blurry.

[HaRuMaN]

Gamelauncher... or Mamewah.  Both should be fine.

[Green Giant]

Gamelauncher... or Mamewah.  Both should be fine.

I use Mala and other people swear by AtomicFE.  How good are you at modifying code, as in .ini files?

[Sir Auros]

Gamelauncher... or Mamewah.  Both should be fine.

I use Mala and other people swear by AtomicFE.  How good are you at modifying code, as in .ini files?

I can change stuff in .ini files if it's documented, but it may not be easy to read the text on a TV screen.

[Green Giant]

Mala does everything I have needed it to do and there is lots of active development.  The plugin feature means anyone can add stuff.  It is really easy to force the specific formats you need for a tv.

[Sir Auros]

I'll check that one out, then.

No new pics today, but we did finish the frame for the CP and attached several strips of velcro for porous surfaces at the top to hopefully keep it from moving around. Tomorrow I'll also add on the magnetic door catches we're using on the inside sides that will also help secure the CP top.

Could've gotten all that plus some of the lip around the CP finished today if we didn't lose power for several hours as soon as we got started this afternoon.

[Malenko]

"Find the missing keys or figure out how to replace them or the locks"


easy. take the screw out of the back and the  stopper comes off, then just remove the nut.  then replace them with locks from Peale, he'll send them all keyed alike, I replaced my MAME and UMK3 cabs with locks from him.


project looks good, I'd round off them CP corners though. You ever browse eBay? I saw a NBA ShowTime panel for sale a few days ago, looks like it'd bolt right to that cab

[Sir Auros]

"Find the missing keys or figure out how to replace them or the locks"


easy. take the screw out of the back and the  stopper comes off, then just remove the nut.  then replace them with locks from Peale, he'll send them all keyed alike, I replaced my MAME and UMK3 cabs with locks from him.

I was able to do that for the back door and coindoor, but the coinbox is sealed off from the interior with a MDF box. I drilled through the lock as best I could and then used some screwdrivers to pry the door open enough to get it open. It worked, but it chipped some of the paint around the door. That was the last thing I did before calling it quits for the night.

I may give Peale the business once more funds open up for the project. I was just going to get the locks from Lowe's or something, but I guess they don't key them together like they do for doors?

project looks good, I'd round off them CP corners though. You ever browse eBay? I saw a NBA ShowTime panel for sale a few days ago, looks like it'd bolt right to that cab

What would be the best way to round them off? Will t-molding not apply well with them being at such a sharp angle?

I haven't looked for anything on ebay since I got started on the project, but I would've loved to pick up a Gauntlet Legends CP to modify since I've been told that game shared this cab model.

I also need to figure out how to get my keyboard and trackball mounted to a slide-out drawer underneath everything since I can't find a drawer mount that's short enough. 16" is the smallest and I would prefer 12".

[Sir Auros]

My last two joysticks arrived today. The J-stick that was shipped out of London yesterday and the red Happ Ultimate that they shipped for free yesterday since it didn't arrive with my initial shipment due to a mistake on their part. 

We constructed the lip that's going underneath the CP top and added more fasteners to the back. There are magnetic catches for cabinets as well as velcro on the top to keep it steady. The velcro seems to be doing the trick, and I don't think it would shift during reasonable play since it does take some effort to remove the top now. If you were pushing straight down in the front, you could wiggle it with the velcro, but I don't foresee that being a problem. If I do have issues keeping it steady, I have some hinges that could attach to the insides of the frame that would keep it really secure. They'll be a pain to undo, though.

Also, about the paintjob. Yes, I know it looks awful, but that's ok because it's really just there to give a bluish background to the translucent vinyl aquarium background I'm using as an overlay. It's durable material, has a really cool pattern, and the piece we tested this morning did adhere to a test piece of painted plywood. I'm actually optimistic that we can get the overlay on, get the controls mounted, and start wiring by tomorrow evening. It's nice to teach and have the summers off.

1 - The mounting frame with the velcro and magnetic catches attached.
2 - The matching parts on the CP top. Added those blocks last night to catch in the frame.
3 - Fugly paint.
4 - The lip doesn't extend as far in the front to leave room for a keyboard drawer. The buttons are player coin buttons. There's one farther away that's missing, but it is actually symmetrical. Also, this will be painted glossy black, but we sprayed it anyway for priming.

[Sir Auros]

Except for the wiring and a few minor things, we finished the CP. Below are some pics that also show the covering we used, and I think we're going to skip the t-molding since it looks so good on the edges. All the joysticks and buttons are in, but one of the nuts we bought for the carriage bolts was the wrong size, so I need to get at least one more (I don't know why I didn't buy extra from the start).

The red joystick that we were waiting on for so long from Happ may have come with the wrong e-ring. It looks like it *might* fit, but it's much smaller than the e-rings that came with the other joysticks. However, it also looks like the slot may be deeper than the other joysticks. We couldn't get it on though, and we had no problem with the other three joysticks. I remember seeing them at the hardware store the other day, so hopefully I can find one tomorrow.

The hardest thing about doing this project on the fly is all the trips to the hardware store.

[Sir Auros]

 

Things are unfortunately on hold right now with this project. The TV that I already had and was going to use is too wide for the cabinet, the TV I bought (and have since returned) that was a 24" instead of a 27" was too wide, and now I'm planning on getting an arcade monitor instead of downgrading the size to a 20" TV or 21" PC monitor. I'm still trying to figure out if I can get a 27" monitor to fit in this cabinet and some things about multi-sync monitors. I have found one monitor that's about 25" and seems to do all three resolutions, but I don't know if requires recalibration after changing resolutions and if it's even a good monitor. http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/49305600.htm

On a good note, I did get the CP all wired and after some finagling, some undone disconnects, some newly crimped replacements, and some tying and securing of the wires, I have the CP pretty much finished. The wiring does work and it's out of the way, but it's certainly not the neatest job. I also could not for the life of me find PCB mounting feet in my town (not at Radioshack or a local electronics store), so my ipac4 is mounted to the wood with blocks of styrofoam covered in electrical tape giving some space between the board and the wood. I do want to secure the CP top to the sides more, but I have some latches that will work fine for that.

[Sir Auros]

Found a TV at a pawnshop today that I'm almost certain will fit (measured first, made a cardboard footprint based on the dimensions, and was able to fit that into the cab). It also remembers to stay on the last video input, and it seems to power on automatically if unplugged while on. Doesn't have s-video, but the composite inputs aren't a noticeable decrease from the s-vid TV I was originally going to use.

However, not all is well as the TV has seen some trauma in the past and has these areas that look like they could use a degaussing. They're not always on the screen though, and they seem to show up after the TV's been on for a few minutes, then they disappear. I'm also wondering if their appearance has something to do with the computer, because even if I leave the TV on and turn the PC on later, the discoloration isn't there at first, but then gradually appears and eventually disappears.

I've attached some pics, the discoloration is easiest to see in the first one. They're on the right and left areas of the screen. I'm just wondering if anyone's seen something like this before or if a simple degaussing could fix it.

EDIT - Spoke too soon about the TV powering on after having the power cut. It will, but only if it's been off for a few minutes. I think I'll just deal with it by putting a hole in the bezel for the IR sensor. Not the prettiest solution, but I feel better doing that than hacking the power button.

[Sir Auros]

 

90% done at this point. Built a monitor shelf this afternoon, mounted it this evening, and got the TV installed tonight.

The remaining things I have to do:

• Design marquee and have it printed
• Get a powerstrip with a longer cord and run it through the original power cord grommet
• Mount the marquee light
• Clean the glass and TV screen
• Cut a hole over the TV's IR sensor to power it on Unnecessary, the remote will turn the TV on and off anyway.
• Reprogram my ipac4 so that the pause and escape buttons will work and so that I won't bring up the stupid controls image everytime player 3 presses down in Game Ex
• Cut, paint, and mount a sliding shelf for the keyboard and trackball

It's a pretty long list, but it's mostly stuff that could be completed in a few hours. The cabinet is fully operational right now, though. Broke it in with a game of Dungeons & Dragons: Tower of Doom (one of the main reasons I had to make a four-player cabinet).

[Malenko]

I forgot I posted in here, lol

Peale sells the locks for $4 shipped with 2 keys and he'll send as many keyed alike as you want (I have 6 so far)

the corners of the control panel..... it was the angle for the t-molding Id be worried about, it'd the be the angle of the wood if you bumped into it. a router or even sandpaper and elbow grease would round it up nicely. And as for the CPO... I thought a football themed CPO was a shoe-in. There nothing wrong with what you picked, but it looks kinda weird.

[Sir Auros]

I'll need to contact Peale about those locks.

I didn't really want a football overlay because I'm not even a football fan. I kept the Blitz artwork just because I didn't want to mangle the original artwork. The overlay doesn't match the sideart, but it will match my marquee.

[Malenko]

how many locks you need? if its 1 or 2, my treat! just tell peale to send me a paypal request (point him to this thread if asks why,lol). I just got a the hook up on a sega saturn and TWO NeoGeos so Im in a good mood so its your lucky day!

[Sir Auros]

Thanks, but I'd be happy to pay him. He's been poking around our boards for a few years now too.

Good job finding a Saturn and some Neogeos, I've never in my life seen a Neo for sale, and I'm still looking for a decent Saturn. 

[Sir Auros]

I'm essentially finished with my first cabinet at this point. The only two things I have left to do are add an additional coin mech. (I need to find some that will match what's in there now) , and cut, paint, and mount that sliding drawer for the keyboard and trackball.

Here are the "finished" pics.
1 - Wide shot in our next project, the unfinished basement. This is forever the MAME cabinet's home, I'm told.
2 - A shot from the side.
3 - The marquee printed (and shipped extremely quickly) from www.mamemarquees.com
4 - The control panel. The trackball is there temporarily until I get that drawer mounted. I'm just having trouble finding an underneath drawer slide that's short enough.

[Austin.Wolff]

That is a HUGE control panel, but I'm loving the design of it.

[Sir Auros]

Yeah, it's a monster at ~56", and if I were to make another one, I would tighten it up some more.

[Malenko]

yeah that is a pretty wide CP, while it may not be aesthetically pleasing, its function is more important. I'd rather have ugly and great to use over pretty and a pain in the butt.  I'm pretty sure you could have trimmed it down a bit, but if you dont have to and it doesnt bother you/other players, then no big deal imo

I wish I had a 4 player cab and 3 other people to play with

[leapinlew]

What do you do about coin up for player 3 and player 4?

*Edit - I see now where you said your looking for matching coin mechs.

[Havok]

Wow - that panel is big. But, you can use it as a buffet table for entertaining when not playing games...

 

[solid187]

6125niner...you are clear for takeoff...over. 

[leapinlew]

6125niner...you are clear for takeoff...over. 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68135.msg693874#msg693874
At least he had the ca hones to build his own cabinet... 

[Green Giant]

6125niner...you are clear for takeoff...over. 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68135.msg693874#msg693874
At least he had the ca hones to build his own cabinet... 

Oh snap, you just got served.

[Sir Auros]

What do you do about coin up for player 3 and player 4?

*Edit - I see now where you said your looking for matching coin mechs.

Yeah, just using pushbuttons for now. Haven't even bothered to hook up the existing coin mechs.

[theCoder]

That is a HUGE control panel...

Perhaps you could invite mccoy178 and some of his friends over to play poker on it.

[psychotech]

I'm a fighter pilot ..

I'll scratch build another cab for you if you'll just name the band, the album, the year when it was published and the first gig the aforementioned song was first publicly performed. In the next 5 minutes after this post. Of course

Kool.