johnnysmitch's CAF Arcade

[SpamMe]

Wow! I am really impressed.  Can you post a close up of the engraved plexi by chance (not lit up)?

I'd love some feedback on 'em:

They look good, but seem out of place (tint-oriented color schemes, elements/style not seen anywhere else)  given the other artwork, and the arcade layout (which I prefer).

[johnnysmitch]

Wow! I am really impressed.  Can you post a close up of the engraved plexi by chance (not lit up)?

I'd love some feedback on 'em:

They look good, but seem out of place (tint-oriented color schemes, elements/style not seen anywhere else)  given the other artwork, and the arcade layout (which I prefer).

As to the photos of the plexi - I'll get to that this weekend for sure .  On the feedback for the layouts - I was feeling the same, that the console layouts so far are quite a different feel from the arcade layout, but I'm also thinking of putting together a standalone console emulator to run on a tv in my room or something down the line [especially since I'm not huge on standing/sitting on a stool for the amount of time it takes to go through a console game], so the console layouts will mostly be for that system, and will be just kind of an additional feature of my arcade system.  I definately appreciate the feedback tho - shows that I wasn't alone in this line of thinking

[johnnysmitch]

Here's the layout background I came up with for PinMame - this one took several iterations, but I think it fits almost perfectly with my mame layout now.  I'll take some snapshots of these in action as soon as I get a chance - the first one looks great in mamewah!
[picture updated - see below]

[johnnysmitch]

No major updates just yet - been busy fumbling around with the software end of my beast... got a few pictures to add tho.  First, here's the pic requested of the plexi invaders with the edgelighting off (first one is with flash - very subtle, and the second one is no flash)

[johnnysmitch]

and no flash:

[johnnysmitch]

and here are my 2 main layouts in action:

[Matt, GoC]

Dude, I just realized that your carpet has the same pattern as my favorite chair .

[johnnysmitch]

heheh, yeah, the carpet feels about as good on the feet as it does on the eyes; gonna steal a rug from my folks this weekend [i'd just rip the stuff out and put in something better, but I rent the place...]

[darktemp]

I have to say these are the best front end skins i've seen so far.  Great job on both of them.  Any chance of posting the hi-res art for the arcade one?  I would love to use some of the graphics for my instruction card.  

[johnnysmitch]

I have to say these are the best front end skins i've seen so far.  Great job on both of them.  Any chance of posting the hi-res art for the arcade one?  I would love to use some of the graphics for my instruction card.  

Thanks!  Like I said awhile ago, I'll be putting my layouts up for grabs when I get my project site up (hopefully soon...), and you can grab whatever you can use then.

On a darker note, my project has hit a pretty sizeable snag... I'm using an Ipac4 in my machine, and ever since I first wired it up, there have been controls that werent working (p3 start, p4 directionals) - I just figured it was my wiring, and I would go through all that with a fine tooth comb later on (since the trouble was all with p3 and p4 controls, I wasn't too worried at the moment and wanted to forge ahead for awhile).  Now last night, I've gone over and checked all my wiring, cleaning up any suspicious connections and such, and the problem controls still aren't working.  I check them in WinIPAC, and some aren't registering at all, while others are registering as 2 switches at the same time... it's not my microswitches, as I tried them on inputs that HAVE been working fine, and they work fine there... anyone here ever confront this problem?? I'm waiting to hear back from Andy, and I'm kinda stressing out about it (so close to being finished now... don't wanna have to buy a new board and do more wiring!!)

[screaming]

Wow, this is really cool!  I had a similar idea to make the top of my CP similar to the base of your cab with the lights and the etchings.. One thing I couldn't figure out though is how to light it without the lights being shown? Since you will be looking down onto the top of the CP, you don't have a lot of hiding space.. Any ideas?   Can you show how you hid the lights on yours?

-Steve

[johnnysmitch]

Wow, this is really cool!  I had a similar idea to make the top of my CP similar to the base of your cab with the lights and the etchings.. One thing I couldn't figure out though is how to light it without the lights being shown? Since you will be looking down onto the top of the CP, you don't have a lot of hiding space.. Any ideas?   Can you show how you hid the lights on yours?

-Steve

I don't have any pictures handy at the moment to illustrate it, but basically I just hid a cold cathode light under the aluminum angle at the top and bottom of the plexi; I originally made it more complicated than it needed to be when I was trying to use the aluminum angle as the sole means of holding up the plexi...  As far as what you'd like to do, I think it would work fine if you possibly made your plexi stick into the area under your monitor a bit, and stick a light in there (that is, if you're building a traditional-style cab).  Remember, you really only need light on one edge of the plexi to get all the engraving to light up

[johnnysmitch]

OK, thought I'd give an update for anyone that cares...

Firstly, I'm working on fixing my Ipac; talked to Andy via email, and he told me how to check each input of the ipac to make sure that it wasn't just a software discrepency... found that I had 3 faulty inputs (2 giving no response, 1 with crosstalk).  I was initially kinda bummed, cause this meant that I would have to send it back and wait for a replacement, setting the completion of my machine back probably a couple weeks.  I realized, though, that I had plenty of unused, perfectly good inputs in the way of my p1 and p2 button 7&8 inputs, as well as p3 and p4 inputs 5-8, so with a little ipac reprogramming, I think I'll be able to get everything running smooth after all.  Also, just to let everyone know, Andy has been great help in the whole ordeal, and offered to replace my ipac if I decide that I'm not happy with the board because of the bad inputs.  I'll keep you posted on how it all turns out...

Secondly, I drew up some decals that I'm having cut out of adhesive vinyl to add to the top of my control panel (see picture below).  Hopefully I can pick these up this weekend, and post pictures of how the cp looks with them applied.

Finally, I'm getting a bit experimental again (after being inspired by how my plexi turned out   ), and I'm going to try my hand at molding some translucent joystick handles.  Why, you ask?  Because I intend to light them, of course! This will definately take some time to work out fully, but I've already taken the first steps, gathered my materials, and made some test-castings in acrylic resin... getting pretty psyched about that.

Also in the works, I've gotten ahold of some phosphorescent (sp?) paint as well as powder, and I'm experimenting with those to possibly use on some sideart stuff, cp top accents, or maybe even mixing in with my casting resin...

Sorry to be so long winded here... hopefully I'll have some new photos for ya next week.

[screaming]

I don't have any pictures handy at the moment to illustrate it, but basically I just hid a cold cathode light under the aluminum angle at the top and bottom of the plexi; I originally made it more complicated than it needed to be when I was trying to use the aluminum angle as the sole means of holding up the plexi...  As far as what you'd like to do, I think it would work fine if you possibly made your plexi stick into the area under your monitor a bit, and stick a light in there (that is, if you're building a traditional-style cab).  Remember, you really only need light on one edge of the plexi to get all the engraving to light up

   How far will the light travel through the plexiglas?  I have a decent-sized SlickStick Quad-style 4 player frankenpanel now with the approximate dimensions of 48"x24".  Will a light in the back of it (near the monitor) light up etchings towards the front and the sides of it, do you think?

  Also remember that since it's a control panel top, it will have 3/4" wood underneath the plexi to screw the controls into.  What kind of issues will I run into with that?

-Steve

[johnnysmitch]

I don't have any pictures handy at the moment to illustrate it, but basically I just hid a cold cathode light under the aluminum angle at the top and bottom of the plexi; I originally made it more complicated than it needed to be when I was trying to use the aluminum angle as the sole means of holding up the plexi...  As far as what you'd like to do, I think it would work fine if you possibly made your plexi stick into the area under your monitor a bit, and stick a light in there (that is, if you're building a traditional-style cab).  Remember, you really only need light on one edge of the plexi to get all the engraving to light up

   How far will the light travel through the plexiglas?  I have a decent-sized SlickStick Quad-style 4 player frankenpanel now with the approximate dimensions of 48"x24".  Will a light in the back of it (near the monitor) light up etchings towards the front and the sides of it, do you think?

  Also remember that since it's a control panel top, it will have 3/4" wood underneath the plexi to screw the controls into.  What kind of issues will I run into with that?

-Steve

If the light's bright, it'll carry all the way through the edge on plex that size - my plexi is 24x36, and it lit up pretty well with only one of the lights one (i ended up putting one on top and one on the bottom because i had them) - also, the brightness depends alot on the positioning of your lights - positioning the light to shine into the edge of the plexi works significantly better that putting the light BEHIND the edge of the plexi (that's actually how mine is, simply because i was having trouble mounting them together correctly) - I'd say it's probably about 15% brighter when the light is placed on the edge.  Finally, try to isolate the light so that it's shining ONLY into the plexi as much as possible - the more light that escapes around the plexi, the less dramatic the effect within the plexi.

[Gunstar Hero]

I know this is gonna sounds lame... but...

If it's a USB IPAC, try changing it to a different USB port.

My IPAC2 was giving me fits... Missing inputs, wouldn't program, you name it. I changed USB ports, the freaking thing started working like a champ.

And if it doesn't work, hey, it took 30 seconds to try, right?

[johnnysmitch]

IT LIVES!!!

Gunstar - when I was first having trouble with it, I immediately suspected something with the usb (have had other usb problems with the comptuter before), so I immediately switched to PS/2, which I tend to trust more to begin with (at least w/ Windows...)

Anyways, I did the whole switcharound with the faulty inputs and unused good ones, reprogrammed them with WinIPAC, and made sure everything was set up properly in mame's ctrlr file, and everything's working GREAT now!

On another note - no feedback on the decals?  I hope to get them on my cp this weekend, and have some pics for ya's next week.

[nathan118]

I second having your mamewah layouts for download. Those things are NIIICE. It's guys like you that give us all something to shoot for.  

[LeedsFan]

I second having your mamewah layouts for download. Those things are NIIICE. It's guys like you that give us all something to shoot for.  

I  totally agree. That MameWah skin is EXACTLY what I've been looking for in my project. It's not finished yet but that design will really go well with my cab.

[johnnysmitch]

Decals got delayed a bit - hopefully THIS weekend... in the meantime, I got to one of my side projects earlier than I thought, and have some pictures to share...

I machined myself a joystick shaft with a hole through the center, in hopes of fullfilling my goal of lighting up my sticks [catch on yet that i'm into the lighting thing?] - got some pretty successful results, considering it was my first ever experience with a metal lathe:

[johnnysmitch]

stuck a blue ultrabright LED in there with the necessary capacitor and fed my wiring through...

[johnnysmitch]

then I stuck on an acrylic sphere that I had lying around for just such an occasion, and put my newly created joystick on my cp...

[cue victory music]

that's my stick on the left, and my trackball on the right

[johnnysmitch]

and with the lights on...
BTW - the stick looks short because it is - I machined it with the intention of molding a bat top for it down the line

[johnnysmitch]

and of course the gratuitous full-on shot...

[danny_galaga]

you should change your name to 'johnnylightswitch'  

nice work  

[BobbyG66]

Totally outrageous!
Well Done!

[Totallyout2lunch]

Absolutely effing fantastic....

When are you going to go into production with the joystic stems and balls?

PM me with a price... Want some....

[Matt, GoC]

Showoff

[screaming]

I think.. I have.. full wood..

[johnnysmitch]

Ok, just got word that my decals are all cut and ready, so I'll be sticking em' on this weekend.

Thanks for all the positive feedback on my light-up balltop.  I'm getting some more lathe time this weekend, so I'm gonna try to crank some more out, as well as get a better feel for what the hell I'm doing.  I bought the acrylic balls from TAP plastics, but I'm hoping to be able to mold my own, as well as tinted acrylic bat tops... already had one [mostly] failed molding attempt, hoping the next goes better as I'll have the use of a vacuum pump for this one to make a better, bubble-free mold...
I've been exploring a parallel route to molding, and that's using the pre-formed spheres, but tinting them colors.  I've read that you can use simple RIT dye, with half the water and heated to between 145 and 160 degrees F to dye acrylic (usually to tint windows)... I tried this, with limited success.  The dyes DID tint the acrylic, but not really the colors that I aimed for - both colors ended up looking more like smoked acrylic; the pigment really didn't stay true.  Here's a picture of a clear sphere, one tinted with RIT 'Denim Blue', and one tinted with RIT 'Navy Blue', in front of a normal light bulb:

[johnnysmitch]

and here they are in front of halogen lighting:

[johnnysmitch]

So, based on the results of my tinting experiment, I'm hoping I can successfully mold my joystick handles myself, in which case I can tint them pretty much any color I want.

My next steps for my arcade are to paint some graphics on the base and apply the decals to the top (pictures whenever I get a chance)

Furthermore, I'm going to try to get a better handle on the whole metal lathe thing and perhaps even try to machine the elusive 'T-Stick Plus with hole throught the center' shaft, which would enable me to make the ultimate 4/8 way switchable, topfire, light-up balltop! Keep your fingers crossed for me.

[javeryh]

Awesome.  The talent and creativity around here never ceases to amaze me.

[Santoro]

You need to make and sell those joysticks.  Please?

I love the whole cab.   Great work.

[johnnysmitch]

Thought I'd update everyone on my weekend progress [no pictures at the moment, will try and snap some tonite] -

1.  I put in a few more hours on the lathe, and came out of it with two more joystick handles.  Getting a better feel for the lathe now, but I'm realizing that it's not really within my realm of ability (nor that of the outdated lathe) to produce these in any great number myself.  That said, I sent one of the sticks I made up to a machine shop so I can get a quote on how much a PROFESSIONAL can do 'em for - hopefully reasonably enough that I can pass some of these on to you fellow BYOAC'ers... Still gotta get my molding underway, and keeping my fingers crossed with that one.  My handles fit Competition bases right now - gotta get  my hands on a super joystick to get em flyin with those too... If any of you are interested in these things, please let me know through the poll I started here: http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=26595 - I don't want to pour too much time into the whole production of these things if there isn't much demand for them...

2. My CP decals finally came in, and I'm lovin em - I'll snap some pictures to share soon.

3. Put on my painter hat at the end of last week too - put some ghost-like flames on the front of my machine, and hope to add some to the sides, as well as some other detailing soon.  Again, I'll try and snap some pictures tonite.

In the meantime, I'm gonna get back to working on my layout skins and getting my software all in order.  Getting so close now...

[DYNAGOD]

i work doing design engineering at a precision CNC machine shop.
any help you need working up engineering drawings or if your simply looking for a quote on production, gimme a shout.
love to help ya out.
 

[tshizzle.com]

lets see some more pics!  love the cab!

[ras2a]

Fook me, that cab is STUNNING !!!  I sincerely wish I had the time and inclination to get mine up to this standard..

[johnnysmitch]

Hi all - as always, thanks for all the positive feedback!  I've been kinda lazy this week and haven't gotten anything new done (damn that GTA: San Andreas!) - I was going to do some work, but then I ended up playing about an hour of Puzzle Bobble with my girlfriend instead   .  So far it seems that Puzzle Bobble and Super Puzzle Fighter are my most played... gotta have a fighter party or something to balance it out   .  Behind the scenes, I've been working a bit on my handles, waiting for a quote from the machine shop, planning out my molds for the tops, and brainstorming how to make some T-Stick Plus replacements.  I promise I'll take more pics this weekend!

[johnnysmitch]

Holy crap! I just saw this thread ( http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=26954 ) about the new SlickStick balltops - those things are sweet looking! I'll have to definately get prices from my machine shop for stainless! (maybe aluminum too...) - kinda inspires me to get moving on my sticks (not that I'm competing in any way - just gives me more motivation to make something really cool).  BTW, I forgot to ask - can any of you that have supers/ultimates give me a quick drawing with dimensions/clip spacings of the sticks and shafts? I wanna make sure I make my sticks as compatible as possible.