Author Topic: RayB's AMUSEMENT 360 - STATUS: Almost done (Read 27936 times)

RayB · « **on:** July 02, 2004, 01:22:25 pm »

I don't have a cool name for my cabinet, so for now it's a "no name". I made up some Photoshop mock-ups to help me figure out what kind of artwork/colors to use.

Here's what I've got so far:

Read about it and view larger pics here:
http://www.rayb.com/arcade/

Am i making a mistake in painting it white? (Could get dirty easier...)
If I design a full side artwork, got any ideas? Cabinets like Centipede, Dig Dug, etc really impress me, but I don't want to copy artwork that is specific to one game. I also don't want something that looks like clip art pasted here and there. (I'm a designer by trade, so I'm a little picky on making this look perfect

Witchboard · « **Reply #1 on:** July 02, 2004, 02:54:17 pm »

I think it will be okay white. I wouldn't make your CP white or anyplace else you'll be resting your hands for an extended period of time.

mmmPeanutButter · « **Reply #2 on:** July 02, 2004, 03:17:56 pm »

I like the one with the question mark... it's sort of like a riddle!

RayB · « **Reply #3 on:** July 02, 2004, 04:22:50 pm »

Heh, The Mystery Cab? Should I also add a game randomizer so you never know which game will boot up?

;-)

RayB · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2004, 02:36:47 pm »

My cab is as yet unnamed and I am toying with using the RetroFX logo I designed for our RetroFX Ghosts n Goblins project, oh so many years ago...

In mocking up what a marquee would look like, i decided to try alternate cabinet colors as well. Here are the results:

http://www.retrofx.com/rayb_arcade.html

Witchboard · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2004, 03:30:03 pm »

They both look good, but I like the purple with yellow t-molding.

Matt, GoC · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2004, 01:27:02 am »

Purple and Yellow!

walls83 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:07:59 pm »

Purple and Yellow

whammoed · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:15:33 pm »

I don't think the white looks right unless the artwork takes up most of the space, like on a centipede cab. Purple and yellow is pretty cool, different is good. Just as long as its not black and "mame" blue

patrickl · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2004, 02:45:11 pm »

Or purple and gold t-molding for the "royal" look

NIVO · « **Reply #10 on:** July 23, 2004, 08:56:15 pm »

.....or some classy Purple Velvet or crushed velour, with that exotic leopard skin t-molding. Then for the mirror, some of those big hot pink fuzzy dice.............err.......wait, this isnt a car!!!! DOH!

I think the purple and yellow will stand out nicely with your side graphic there Ray.

Mr. Dude · « **Reply #11 on:** July 27, 2004, 04:04:51 pm »

I like the red one. Man you do some awesome models!

Magnet_Eye · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2004, 07:51:08 pm »

How about one in a dark blue color?

pcdoctor · « **Reply #13 on:** July 28, 2004, 05:04:04 am »

What color is the rest of your room?
That should determine your red or purple cabinet color.
Definetely go with red or purple.
White looks plain next to the red or purple.

RayB · « **Reply #14 on:** July 28, 2004, 11:47:54 pm »

My basement isn't finished yet, so right now the walls are "insulation pink".

It will probably be white walls... I want to go for a retro 70's "modern" spacey look with lots of white.

RayB · « **Reply #15 on:** August 02, 2004, 11:28:18 am »

Finally got some time to work on it.

- Removed the marquee and speaker. Cleaned out that top area.

- Filled in knicks and scratches on the sides, and spackled a large gash in the bottom rear edge.

While that dried, I opened up my Galaga and replaced the corroded fuse holders with new ones. Fired it up... WORKS AGAIN! yes!

RayB · « **Reply #16 on:** September 10, 2004, 03:28:07 pm »

After much hemming and hawing (say what?!) I have finally settled on button colors. I think I have commitment issues. I'm a perfectionist, and being a perfectionist means over-analyzing and thinking about stuff, and in this case, I'm still trying to decide on cabinet artwork, but I did finally settle on some decisions (phew!):

I was originally going to go with blue buttons (perhaps even 2 shades of blue). But the widest variety of colors are only available for leaf-switch. My control panel is way too cramped for those leaf-switch holders, so I'm going with Happ pushbuttons.

So then i was looking at the blue and purple that they have, and then I thought about what actual arcade games usually used for button color choices (why not copy what the original designers felt was best?).

What I found was that usually they use different colors for different buttons, because it helps the player remember which does what. So that settled it. I'm going with multiple colors and will compensate for the "rainbow" effect through a good CP art design.

My final button colors will be red, green, blue and yellow, placed in a configuration that matches the japanese Super Famicom controllers. There. If ever I wanna play SNES emulators on this cab, I'll be set.

(Uh oh... the american SNES opted for a two-tone button color scheme... HMMMM there goes my mind again...)
~Ray

PS: I had the same "can't settle on a plan" problem for my cab color scheme. As nice as the red and yellow is, truth is I have already purchased blue t-molding. Since I'm in Canada, ordering t-molding isn't the cheapest thing, so I will stick to my original blue T and white sides plan.

RayB · « **Reply #17 on:** October 05, 2004, 06:59:36 pm »

Got my order from Bob Roberts today. I believe that's the last of the parts I need other than 2 coin mechs.

I got my buttons (Happ/IL microswitch), a joystick template, molex connectors, carriage bolts, two 4x4 speakers, control panel latches, and an AC on/off switch.

I also got parts for my restoration projects: I got an Atari "Big Blue" capacitor so I can continue attempting to fix my Missile Command and 2 new Atari style power cords (to replace the ratty ones on the Missile Command and Dominos). And new leaf-switch buttons for my Galaga (to replace the not-authentic microswitch buttons on there now).

Should see some progress soon...!

RayB · « **Reply #18 on:** October 20, 2004, 01:28:51 pm »

Have finally designed the layout for my control panel. I have very little room to work with. I am lucky to even have a spinner on here!

Here's how it will look (without artwork):

Here's the "blueprint" version that will let me cut the holes in precisely the right places:

RayB · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2004, 08:27:46 pm »

Two things:

1. I settled on the name "Amusement 360". That was the name of my favorite arcade when I was a teen. It's also generic enough to apply to a cab.

2. I finally designed the artwork for my control panel (based on the layout you see above).

I came up with 3 variations and would like feedback. In the end I'll combine the best parts of the 3 into my final design. Check them out in the Artwork forum: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29696.0.html

RayB · « **Reply #20 on:** January 25, 2005, 03:29:02 pm »

No real progress. Just acquired 2 new coin mechs.

javeryh · « **Reply #21 on:** January 25, 2005, 06:36:18 pm »

Nice CP design. What are you using to lay out the controls? I'm looking for something I can play around with...

RayB · « **Reply #22 on:** January 25, 2005, 07:57:03 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on January 25, 2005, 06:36:18 pm

Nice CP design. What are you using...

Adobe Illustrator

RayB · « **Reply #23 on:** July 22, 2005, 01:01:17 pm »

Primed front and "inside".

RayB · « **Reply #24 on:** July 28, 2005, 11:51:14 am »

For those interested, the priming process:

Since this cabinet was made with an original factory wood veneer or laminate, I have had to use a very "strong" primer that adheres to any kind of surface. For this I used an oil-based primer by Zinsser called "Stain Cover". This stuff sticks to anything and goes on in one coat. Even so, I first sanded all surfaces (filling in knicks and damage with some wood filler first) using a Black n Decker "Mouse" sander and 200 grit.

Note: I kept the old t-molding on during this process. The reason for this is that if the t-molding is removed, then sanding could and probably would "round" the edges of the wood where thet-molding goes. I wanted to keep the edge as square as possible, so the old t-molding stays on until later. This lets me sand over the edges without worry.

Next step then was washing off all dust and dirt left from the sanding. Once dry then I painted a single coat of the "Stain Cover" primer using a small FOAM roller. It's best to roll it on as thin as possible. This stuff really covers in one coat, so it's no too difficult. Also note that I had this paint tinted grey.

When rolling this paint on, make sure to thin and even the paint right away. If you come back and try rolling onto an area you've already painted, you will end up causing the paint to come off because it becomes "tacky" very fast. Fix mistakes later with another coat when the first one has dried.

I only painted one side at a time, with each side being "face up" when painted. This way the paint does not streak at all. It dries flat. I gave each side 24hrs to dry. Once dry use a low-grit sandpaper block to smooth the finish and remove little dried pieces of lint, etc.

At this point, if there are any major mistakes, sand them down and/or roll more paint on it. Otherwise, now is the time to remove the old t-molding. I stripped it off and hand-sanded the edges to keep it straight and smooth. Then I rolled on some primer on the edges too.

This is where I'm at now. Next step I have to decide if I'm painting the sides or the front... I'm not so sure about white sides anymore, since it does get dirty and scuffed easily.

~Ray B.

RayB · « **Reply #25 on:** July 30, 2005, 09:40:30 pm »

Sides are completely primed and dried. So yesterday I decided I could remove the t-molding. Turned out one end of this had a rusty nail in it. Didn't know this until I stepped on it, I felt pain and then wondered why the t-molding stayed stuck to my foot when i lifted it up.

Next day (today) got a tetanus shot.

So next step tonight was painting a coat of black on the inside of the cab (monitor area) and the sides along the front. The paint does not seem to go on all that well... (satin finish latex on top of a great oil-based primer). We'll see how it adheres by tomorrow. Will definitely need a second coat.

DefJam · « **Reply #26 on:** July 31, 2005, 10:29:51 am »

You know I think naming the project is really important... I really like the fact that you picked an arcaded from your teen years Really cool... I can remember Spaceport now. Beautiful cab.

RayB · « **Reply #27 on:** July 31, 2005, 12:43:35 pm »

LATEX SUCKS! (Or at least Behr Satin finish late sucks)

The stuff still scratches right off even on a good primed surface. I got fed up, so I sanded it all off and just used a can of Rustoleum semi-gloss.

grueinthebox · « **Reply #28 on:** July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm »

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

RayB · « **Reply #29 on:** July 31, 2005, 07:39:46 pm »

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

That's usually true, except this primer I used was rated as "will cover anything and everything" and also "can accept any type of top coat". That last part is why I thought I could use the latex. The bottom line is "Behr satin finish" is a sucky brand of latex. Stay away from it!

MiKman · « **Reply #30 on:** August 01, 2005, 11:52:23 pm »

Quote from: RayB on July 31, 2005, 07:39:46 pm

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm
I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

That's usually true, except this primer I used was rated as "will cover anything and everything" and also "can accept any type of top coat". That last part is why I thought I could use the latex. The bottom line is "Behr satin finish" is a sucky brand of latex. Stay away from it!

Thats what I used on my cabinet (Behr satin latex) and it has an EXTREMELY long curing period. Seriously give it a week (maybe two) before it doesn't scratch off like that anymore. The stuff remains soft for what seems like forever. Now, 1 year later and it couldn't be scratched off by my 1 year old with a screw driver lol. It's really good paint, just let it dry forever.

CJK · « **Reply #31 on:** August 02, 2005, 03:25:08 am »

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

Untrue. As long as you let the primer cure properly, you can use latex over top of an alkyd primer without any problems at all.

RayB -- I had great success with Benjamin Moore Aqua-Glo latex semi-gloss over a Zinsser primer. If your paint is drying too quickly, you could consider adding something like Floetrol to lengthen the working time. You would probably need an extra coat, though, as Floetrol will thin the paint some.

-- Chris

RayB · « **Reply #32 on:** August 02, 2005, 12:08:33 pm »

Well now I know! Though I don't want to wait a week dry time!

I need to finish this sucker ASAP.

I got fed up and used a spray can of Tremclad semi-gloss.

RayB · « **Reply #33 on:** August 02, 2005, 10:52:58 pm »

Well today I got several steps ahead on the software/hardware front:

1. I finished installing Win98SE, and getting all the drivers working properly.

2. I set up some a couple versions of MAME and some front-ends. (Could NOT get Adv MAME working, probably due to monitor configuration. I'll switch to this version when I set up the arcade monitor).

3. Got GameLauncher configured and working with DOS MAME .78. yay!

I plan on trying out MAMEWAH next, see if I can live with the standard GameLauncher menu or if I have to go all fancy and customized with Mamewah. ;-)

RayB · « **Reply #34 on:** August 04, 2005, 01:03:18 am »

Tonight: Installed some of that black speaker cover vinyl material from PartsExpress on the front of the cab. Looks AWESOME. Also installed my coin door and a new lock.

RayB · « **Reply #35 on:** September 06, 2005, 02:44:25 pm »

I got all the software setup, and after quite a bit of headaches (as detailed in another thread in the Software Forum) I opted to just make life easier on myself and bust my budget even further. I ordered an ArcadeVGA from Ultimarc. Card arrived today.

Major items left:
- Decide on what admin buttons to include (if any)
- Print control panel overlay
- Print marquee

That's about it. Everything else is assembling and wiring.

RayB · « **Reply #36 on:** September 12, 2005, 12:47:10 am »

OK, latest developments... I had sound issues which I have now resolved. And also got all software configured right and working.

So now I have the system booting, skipping Windows and going straight to DOS. GameLauncher works and launches games

Pik4chu · « **Reply #37 on:** September 12, 2005, 02:36:50 pm »

Quote from: RayB on September 12, 2005, 12:47:10 am

OK, latest developments... I had sound issues which I have now resolved. And also got all software configured right and working.

So now I have the system booting, skipping Windows and going straight to DOS. GameLauncher works and launches games

Wade · « **Reply #38 on:** September 13, 2005, 12:10:07 pm »

My advice, when using latex paints on plywood or MDF, is DON'T prime. The Latex paint absorbs into the wood slightly and ends up sticking very well. When I have used primer it hasn't given me any benefits, in fact it usually just makes things worse, like you experienced.

I painted parts of my first MAME cabinet with primer, and other parts without, and had MUCH better finish and durability on the parts without primer.

Wade

farmecologist · « **Reply #39 on:** September 13, 2005, 06:07:16 pm »

I'd second that.


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