Author Topic: RayB's AMUSEMENT 360 - STATUS: Almost done (Read 27884 times)

RayB · « **on:** July 02, 2004, 01:22:25 pm »

I don't have a cool name for my cabinet, so for now it's a "no name". I made up some Photoshop mock-ups to help me figure out what kind of artwork/colors to use.

Here's what I've got so far:

Read about it and view larger pics here:
http://www.rayb.com/arcade/

Am i making a mistake in painting it white? (Could get dirty easier...)
If I design a full side artwork, got any ideas? Cabinets like Centipede, Dig Dug, etc really impress me, but I don't want to copy artwork that is specific to one game. I also don't want something that looks like clip art pasted here and there. (I'm a designer by trade, so I'm a little picky on making this look perfect

Witchboard · « **Reply #1 on:** July 02, 2004, 02:54:17 pm »

I think it will be okay white. I wouldn't make your CP white or anyplace else you'll be resting your hands for an extended period of time.

mmmPeanutButter · « **Reply #2 on:** July 02, 2004, 03:17:56 pm »

I like the one with the question mark... it's sort of like a riddle!

RayB · « **Reply #3 on:** July 02, 2004, 04:22:50 pm »

Heh, The Mystery Cab? Should I also add a game randomizer so you never know which game will boot up?

;-)

RayB · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2004, 02:36:47 pm »

My cab is as yet unnamed and I am toying with using the RetroFX logo I designed for our RetroFX Ghosts n Goblins project, oh so many years ago...

In mocking up what a marquee would look like, i decided to try alternate cabinet colors as well. Here are the results:

http://www.retrofx.com/rayb_arcade.html

Witchboard · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2004, 03:30:03 pm »

They both look good, but I like the purple with yellow t-molding.

Matt, GoC · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2004, 01:27:02 am »

Purple and Yellow!

walls83 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:07:59 pm »

Purple and Yellow

whammoed · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:15:33 pm »

I don't think the white looks right unless the artwork takes up most of the space, like on a centipede cab. Purple and yellow is pretty cool, different is good. Just as long as its not black and "mame" blue

patrickl · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2004, 02:45:11 pm »

Or purple and gold t-molding for the "royal" look

NIVO · « **Reply #10 on:** July 23, 2004, 08:56:15 pm »

.....or some classy Purple Velvet or crushed velour, with that exotic leopard skin t-molding. Then for the mirror, some of those big hot pink fuzzy dice.............err.......wait, this isnt a car!!!! DOH!

I think the purple and yellow will stand out nicely with your side graphic there Ray.

Mr. Dude · « **Reply #11 on:** July 27, 2004, 04:04:51 pm »

I like the red one. Man you do some awesome models!

Magnet_Eye · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2004, 07:51:08 pm »

How about one in a dark blue color?

pcdoctor · « **Reply #13 on:** July 28, 2004, 05:04:04 am »

What color is the rest of your room?
That should determine your red or purple cabinet color.
Definetely go with red or purple.
White looks plain next to the red or purple.

RayB · « **Reply #14 on:** July 28, 2004, 11:47:54 pm »

My basement isn't finished yet, so right now the walls are "insulation pink".

It will probably be white walls... I want to go for a retro 70's "modern" spacey look with lots of white.

RayB · « **Reply #15 on:** August 02, 2004, 11:28:18 am »

Finally got some time to work on it.

- Removed the marquee and speaker. Cleaned out that top area.

- Filled in knicks and scratches on the sides, and spackled a large gash in the bottom rear edge.

While that dried, I opened up my Galaga and replaced the corroded fuse holders with new ones. Fired it up... WORKS AGAIN! yes!

RayB · « **Reply #16 on:** September 10, 2004, 03:28:07 pm »

After much hemming and hawing (say what?!) I have finally settled on button colors. I think I have commitment issues. I'm a perfectionist, and being a perfectionist means over-analyzing and thinking about stuff, and in this case, I'm still trying to decide on cabinet artwork, but I did finally settle on some decisions (phew!):

I was originally going to go with blue buttons (perhaps even 2 shades of blue). But the widest variety of colors are only available for leaf-switch. My control panel is way too cramped for those leaf-switch holders, so I'm going with Happ pushbuttons.

So then i was looking at the blue and purple that they have, and then I thought about what actual arcade games usually used for button color choices (why not copy what the original designers felt was best?).

What I found was that usually they use different colors for different buttons, because it helps the player remember which does what. So that settled it. I'm going with multiple colors and will compensate for the "rainbow" effect through a good CP art design.

My final button colors will be red, green, blue and yellow, placed in a configuration that matches the japanese Super Famicom controllers. There. If ever I wanna play SNES emulators on this cab, I'll be set.

(Uh oh... the american SNES opted for a two-tone button color scheme... HMMMM there goes my mind again...)
~Ray

PS: I had the same "can't settle on a plan" problem for my cab color scheme. As nice as the red and yellow is, truth is I have already purchased blue t-molding. Since I'm in Canada, ordering t-molding isn't the cheapest thing, so I will stick to my original blue T and white sides plan.

RayB · « **Reply #17 on:** October 05, 2004, 06:59:36 pm »

Got my order from Bob Roberts today. I believe that's the last of the parts I need other than 2 coin mechs.

I got my buttons (Happ/IL microswitch), a joystick template, molex connectors, carriage bolts, two 4x4 speakers, control panel latches, and an AC on/off switch.

I also got parts for my restoration projects: I got an Atari "Big Blue" capacitor so I can continue attempting to fix my Missile Command and 2 new Atari style power cords (to replace the ratty ones on the Missile Command and Dominos). And new leaf-switch buttons for my Galaga (to replace the not-authentic microswitch buttons on there now).

Should see some progress soon...!

RayB · « **Reply #18 on:** October 20, 2004, 01:28:51 pm »

Have finally designed the layout for my control panel. I have very little room to work with. I am lucky to even have a spinner on here!

Here's how it will look (without artwork):

Here's the "blueprint" version that will let me cut the holes in precisely the right places:

RayB · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2004, 08:27:46 pm »

Two things:

1. I settled on the name "Amusement 360". That was the name of my favorite arcade when I was a teen. It's also generic enough to apply to a cab.

2. I finally designed the artwork for my control panel (based on the layout you see above).

I came up with 3 variations and would like feedback. In the end I'll combine the best parts of the 3 into my final design. Check them out in the Artwork forum: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29696.0.html

RayB · « **Reply #20 on:** January 25, 2005, 03:29:02 pm »

No real progress. Just acquired 2 new coin mechs.

javeryh · « **Reply #21 on:** January 25, 2005, 06:36:18 pm »

Nice CP design. What are you using to lay out the controls? I'm looking for something I can play around with...

RayB · « **Reply #22 on:** January 25, 2005, 07:57:03 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on January 25, 2005, 06:36:18 pm

Nice CP design. What are you using...

Adobe Illustrator

RayB · « **Reply #23 on:** July 22, 2005, 01:01:17 pm »

Primed front and "inside".

RayB · « **Reply #24 on:** July 28, 2005, 11:51:14 am »

For those interested, the priming process:

Since this cabinet was made with an original factory wood veneer or laminate, I have had to use a very "strong" primer that adheres to any kind of surface. For this I used an oil-based primer by Zinsser called "Stain Cover". This stuff sticks to anything and goes on in one coat. Even so, I first sanded all surfaces (filling in knicks and damage with some wood filler first) using a Black n Decker "Mouse" sander and 200 grit.

Note: I kept the old t-molding on during this process. The reason for this is that if the t-molding is removed, then sanding could and probably would "round" the edges of the wood where thet-molding goes. I wanted to keep the edge as square as possible, so the old t-molding stays on until later. This lets me sand over the edges without worry.

Next step then was washing off all dust and dirt left from the sanding. Once dry then I painted a single coat of the "Stain Cover" primer using a small FOAM roller. It's best to roll it on as thin as possible. This stuff really covers in one coat, so it's no too difficult. Also note that I had this paint tinted grey.

When rolling this paint on, make sure to thin and even the paint right away. If you come back and try rolling onto an area you've already painted, you will end up causing the paint to come off because it becomes "tacky" very fast. Fix mistakes later with another coat when the first one has dried.

I only painted one side at a time, with each side being "face up" when painted. This way the paint does not streak at all. It dries flat. I gave each side 24hrs to dry. Once dry use a low-grit sandpaper block to smooth the finish and remove little dried pieces of lint, etc.

At this point, if there are any major mistakes, sand them down and/or roll more paint on it. Otherwise, now is the time to remove the old t-molding. I stripped it off and hand-sanded the edges to keep it straight and smooth. Then I rolled on some primer on the edges too.

This is where I'm at now. Next step I have to decide if I'm painting the sides or the front... I'm not so sure about white sides anymore, since it does get dirty and scuffed easily.

~Ray B.

RayB · « **Reply #25 on:** July 30, 2005, 09:40:30 pm »

Sides are completely primed and dried. So yesterday I decided I could remove the t-molding. Turned out one end of this had a rusty nail in it. Didn't know this until I stepped on it, I felt pain and then wondered why the t-molding stayed stuck to my foot when i lifted it up.

Next day (today) got a tetanus shot.

So next step tonight was painting a coat of black on the inside of the cab (monitor area) and the sides along the front. The paint does not seem to go on all that well... (satin finish latex on top of a great oil-based primer). We'll see how it adheres by tomorrow. Will definitely need a second coat.

DefJam · « **Reply #26 on:** July 31, 2005, 10:29:51 am »

You know I think naming the project is really important... I really like the fact that you picked an arcaded from your teen years Really cool... I can remember Spaceport now. Beautiful cab.

RayB · « **Reply #27 on:** July 31, 2005, 12:43:35 pm »

LATEX SUCKS! (Or at least Behr Satin finish late sucks)

The stuff still scratches right off even on a good primed surface. I got fed up, so I sanded it all off and just used a can of Rustoleum semi-gloss.

grueinthebox · « **Reply #28 on:** July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm »

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

RayB · « **Reply #29 on:** July 31, 2005, 07:39:46 pm »

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

That's usually true, except this primer I used was rated as "will cover anything and everything" and also "can accept any type of top coat". That last part is why I thought I could use the latex. The bottom line is "Behr satin finish" is a sucky brand of latex. Stay away from it!

MiKman · « **Reply #30 on:** August 01, 2005, 11:52:23 pm »

Quote from: RayB on July 31, 2005, 07:39:46 pm

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm
I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

That's usually true, except this primer I used was rated as "will cover anything and everything" and also "can accept any type of top coat". That last part is why I thought I could use the latex. The bottom line is "Behr satin finish" is a sucky brand of latex. Stay away from it!

Thats what I used on my cabinet (Behr satin latex) and it has an EXTREMELY long curing period. Seriously give it a week (maybe two) before it doesn't scratch off like that anymore. The stuff remains soft for what seems like forever. Now, 1 year later and it couldn't be scratched off by my 1 year old with a screw driver lol. It's really good paint, just let it dry forever.

CJK · « **Reply #31 on:** August 02, 2005, 03:25:08 am »

Quote from: grueinthebox on July 31, 2005, 02:19:45 pm

I'm no paint expert, but I was always under the impression that you weren't supposed to use latex over oil-based paints and primers, and vice-versa...

Untrue. As long as you let the primer cure properly, you can use latex over top of an alkyd primer without any problems at all.

RayB -- I had great success with Benjamin Moore Aqua-Glo latex semi-gloss over a Zinsser primer. If your paint is drying too quickly, you could consider adding something like Floetrol to lengthen the working time. You would probably need an extra coat, though, as Floetrol will thin the paint some.

-- Chris

RayB · « **Reply #32 on:** August 02, 2005, 12:08:33 pm »

Well now I know! Though I don't want to wait a week dry time!

I need to finish this sucker ASAP.

I got fed up and used a spray can of Tremclad semi-gloss.

RayB · « **Reply #33 on:** August 02, 2005, 10:52:58 pm »

Well today I got several steps ahead on the software/hardware front:

1. I finished installing Win98SE, and getting all the drivers working properly.

2. I set up some a couple versions of MAME and some front-ends. (Could NOT get Adv MAME working, probably due to monitor configuration. I'll switch to this version when I set up the arcade monitor).

3. Got GameLauncher configured and working with DOS MAME .78. yay!

I plan on trying out MAMEWAH next, see if I can live with the standard GameLauncher menu or if I have to go all fancy and customized with Mamewah. ;-)

RayB · « **Reply #34 on:** August 04, 2005, 01:03:18 am »

Tonight: Installed some of that black speaker cover vinyl material from PartsExpress on the front of the cab. Looks AWESOME. Also installed my coin door and a new lock.

RayB · « **Reply #35 on:** September 06, 2005, 02:44:25 pm »

I got all the software setup, and after quite a bit of headaches (as detailed in another thread in the Software Forum) I opted to just make life easier on myself and bust my budget even further. I ordered an ArcadeVGA from Ultimarc. Card arrived today.

Major items left:
- Decide on what admin buttons to include (if any)
- Print control panel overlay
- Print marquee

That's about it. Everything else is assembling and wiring.

RayB · « **Reply #36 on:** September 12, 2005, 12:47:10 am »

OK, latest developments... I had sound issues which I have now resolved. And also got all software configured right and working.

So now I have the system booting, skipping Windows and going straight to DOS. GameLauncher works and launches games

Pik4chu · « **Reply #37 on:** September 12, 2005, 02:36:50 pm »

Quote from: RayB on September 12, 2005, 12:47:10 am

OK, latest developments... I had sound issues which I have now resolved. And also got all software configured right and working.

So now I have the system booting, skipping Windows and going straight to DOS. GameLauncher works and launches games

Wade · « **Reply #38 on:** September 13, 2005, 12:10:07 pm »

My advice, when using latex paints on plywood or MDF, is DON'T prime. The Latex paint absorbs into the wood slightly and ends up sticking very well. When I have used primer it hasn't given me any benefits, in fact it usually just makes things worse, like you experienced.

I painted parts of my first MAME cabinet with primer, and other parts without, and had MUCH better finish and durability on the parts without primer.

Wade

farmecologist · « **Reply #39 on:** September 13, 2005, 06:07:16 pm »

I'd second that.

arcadefever · « **Reply #40 on:** September 14, 2005, 02:01:17 pm »

nice cab

i really like red and yellow colour i also like the control panel the way the 4 push button are set up cant wait to see it finish

RayB · « **Reply #41 on:** October 11, 2005, 03:15:04 pm »

Still dragging on. Had software problems. Now they are fixed. The PC boots straightinto GameLauncher. If anyone needs help using GL, PM me.

Spent all weekend going through the lists and sorting them by:

A. Removing clones and regions I don't want
B. Removing entries that don't even work (I don't know why my list generator included non-working games!)
C. Dividing entries between horizontal and vertical.

phew! It's very time consuming.

RayB · « **Reply #42 on:** October 23, 2005, 02:08:20 pm »

Finished my software setup (more or less) so next step was installing the ArcadeVGA card.

That also meant pulling out the 19" Happ Controls Vision Pro II that had been sitting new in box since I got it in May 2004. (Wow, sad huh?)

Before hooking all this up, I had to pull the RGBvhg connector, and wire in my JAMMA harness wiring to it. Once that was done, I hooked everything up, powered the monitor and then the PC.

YAH! NICE! Gamelauncher looks good!

Next, sizing. I ran a few various Horizontal games for starters. I picked Rolling Thunder (one of my fave games) and size the image according to that. Then ran some Neo Geo games.

It is amazing what a difference it is to see these games running on their original intended display device!! As I said in another thread, even though I had seen these games running flawlessly on a PC monitor with effects that simulate an arcade monitor picture, seeing it on an arcade monitor is like stepping through the looking glass from PC world to Arcade world. It's such a difference! Really worth the $160 the monitor cost.

So next was to see how Atari medium res games looked. They look pretty good. Kinda an "interlaced" look to them. But very small. I'm not sure MAME is picking the best res for these games.

Same goes for SMASH TV, Tengai, etc. They are basically a very small square in the middle of the monitor. :-(

RayB · « **Reply #43 on:** October 23, 2005, 09:30:06 pm »

Resolution problem PARTIALLY solved. I had forgotten to use a resolution tool. So I used Mamewah's res tool. I followed the directions, created INI files, etc.

Now I believe that DMAME 0.78 doesn't even use the INI files. It didn't have an INI directory to begin with. It didn't have a path entry in MAME.CFG. And when I change the resolution in some INI files and test the changes out, I see no difference.

For example, GUWANGE runs a small box. It's a vertical game, so I expect black borders on the left and right, but it has large borders top and bottom too! After using the res tool, it made no difference. I even went in the INI and editted it to 800x600. No difference. 320x240. No difference. I don't think the INI files are used at all. Must have been a featured introduced later than 0.78.

Beyond that, using the res tool did help with SOME games. I believe that it's the deleting of certain resolution modes from the list that helped in that respect. (Tengai went from running in a small box like Guwange does, to fill most of the screen).

Should I delete more modes? Maybe the ones that are 53hz? Maybe even some higher ones?

RayB · « **Reply #44 on:** October 26, 2005, 09:22:46 pm »

Here's a photo of my setup. Nice and junky looking eh?

1 = PC
2 = JAMMA harness plugging into a JPAC
3 = a keyboard! yay
4 = my temporary single-player control box
5 = new Vision Pro II 19"

RayB · « **Reply #45 on:** October 31, 2005, 03:39:44 pm »

Though I still have minor software issues (as mentioned above--re resolutions) I have proceeded to installing hardware.

I have opted to keeping everything decased, and mounting everything securely so that the cab can be moved and even tiltled on its back without a single part moving. I'm going to have to build a couple small "shelves" for the drives, and something to secure the cards to.

I had to find myself an ATX power cable extender, because otherwise everything had to be mounted really close together. I could use a longer EIDE cable as well, but I only have the one (got TONS of old IDE cables though, but they don't work with the ATA100!)

Photos forthcoming...

RayB · « **Reply #46 on:** November 04, 2005, 12:43:11 am »

Here are a couple pics. As you can see, I have very little room to work with, hence part of why I opted for no PC tower.

Havok · « **Reply #47 on:** November 04, 2005, 05:19:35 pm »

Looks good. I love Rolling Thunder! Good test, but then any game is a good test...

RayB · « **Reply #48 on:** November 04, 2005, 05:28:04 pm »

My favorite game.

RayB · « **Reply #49 on:** November 14, 2005, 12:37:36 pm »

Update:

Now painting side 2. Painting is taking a while. It requires 16 hrs drying time between coats, so that works out to one coat per day. I should be done this phase by Wednesday (Nov 16).

I'm a bit disappointed with the results. It looks good painted (white) and all, but even though I sanded between coats, I still have a bumpiness to the finish. I think I would have had to sand alot more and put alot more coats. But in the end there's no way I'm going to do that, given the drying time. I want this sucker finished.

So in the end: 3 coats primer, 2 coats finish (melamine, satin finish) with a slight texture.

NOTE TO ALL: Don't use my project as a guide for the order you should do things!!! I am all over the place. Painting the sides should have been done right after I primed them. But due to space constraints, I went ahead with other tasks.

For example: I had already applied my black vinyl to the front. Now, when painting the sides white, I risk getting paint on this! I also had installed my monitor. That means the bolts that hold the monitor rails are there, on the sides. I had to tape them up to try and prevent paint getting on them. Ideally, get your painting 100% done first, then install guts. (OH sanding your coats adds dust to everything!) I knew all this but just wanted progress so I did things out of order.

menace · « **Reply #50 on:** November 14, 2005, 12:52:05 pm »

looking good--do you find the decased pc too loud? I opted for decased once and would never do it again--the fans were just too loud. I guess you had space restrictions--but nothing a hammer and a jigsaw couldn't fix

How is game launcher as a FE? I have never seen it running so I was curious--have you tried other FE's--any comparisons?

RayB · « **Reply #51 on:** November 14, 2005, 01:40:16 pm »

Quote from: menace on November 14, 2005, 12:52:05 pm

looking good--do you find the decased pc too loud?

Yes/No. It is a little loud.

RayB · « **Reply #52 on:** November 21, 2005, 08:32:03 pm »

Getting closer! Getting closer!

1. Painting is complete! Sides are white (satin finish melamine). Took two coats of super adherant grey sealer primer, then 1 coat of melamine primer and finally two coats of final melamine top coat. Sanded inbetween coats, but not enough to get a perfectly smooth finish. The end result is still acceptable.

2. Added blue t-molding. Unfortunately, turns out what I needed was 11/16" width. What I had was 3/4". There is an overlap on either side of about 1mm. It's not noticeable to the eye, so no biggie (besides, t-molding.com only carries this weird width in black).

3. I ordered a plastic bezel from Happ Controls, for 19" monitors. Well I encountered a couple problems with it. First, the center cut-out is not sized correctly for 19" monitors (maybe that's why these are on sale for $6 now?). Overall, you lose almost a whole inch in height and width.

Normally, if this cabinet were meant for one game only, this wouldn't be that big a deal, since I can squish the picture down to fit correctly, but in this case since we're dealing with multiple resolutions, some games are already squished quite a bit, and it would suck to squish them down even more just because of this bezel!

So I cut it down as best I could with my jigsaw. Not an easy task considering it's a curved shape. In the end I have a slightly uneven shape, but it shouldn't be too noticeable.

Second problem was that in cutting and fitting the bezel, I managed to get two small scratches onto the otherwise new monitor.

Here's the lastest photo:

RayB · « **Reply #53 on:** November 22, 2005, 02:48:30 am »

Control panel art file is now waiting for Scott at MameMarquees!

RayB · « **Reply #54 on:** November 27, 2005, 01:18:53 pm »

Yesterday: Measured and cut holes for speakers. Mounted speakers and plastic speaker covers. Looks nice!

Plan for today:
- Mount amplifier circuit and knob
- cut holes for power switch
- wire sound and amp circuit

RayB · « **Reply #55 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:17:06 pm »

Thought I'd add more construction pics, since people like photos!

I cut this hole for the speaker by first drilling a hole, then using a jigsaw.

RayB · « **Reply #56 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:28:12 pm »

Here's the panel with the speakers and speaker covers mounted. The covers are simple $1 plastic covers (Active Surplus in Toronto), but they look much better than in this photo.

The second photo shows the panel mounted.

RayB · « **Reply #57 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:41:03 pm »

Here you see my sound amp. It came from a $25 set of PC speakers. The original sub-woofer is still in use in the very bottom of the cabinet. Lucky for me all wiring that it came with was just the right length to reach.

To mount this, I had to drill a couple holes in the corners of the circuit board, as well as glue a piece of wood to the side of the cabinet so I could mount the whole thing as flush to the top as possible.

I drilled a hole about 1" in diameter in the top. I mounted a plastic rectangle to cover the bottom of the hole. A hole in this plastic piece allows the potentiometer "rod" to poke through. On top, the actual knob is attached. The end result is that the volume know does not stick up past the wood of the cabinet, but it's still fairly easy to adjust (with normal size fingers!)

RayB · « **Reply #58 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:42:21 pm »

Here is the recessed volume knob:

RayB · « **Reply #59 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:44:02 pm »

While I was drilling the hole for the volume knob, I also drilled one near the back left side for the master AC power switch, and I mounted the switch.

RayB · « **Reply #60 on:** November 27, 2005, 10:54:26 pm »

Lastly, here is most of my hardware mounted.

A: Here is a JPAC and JAMMA harness

B: Here the CD-ROM is mounted with brackets on top of two wood rails. Underneath is the 30g hard drive.

C: Here you can see my L shaped solution for holding my cards in place. The idea with everything here is to have everything mounted and secured so the cabinet can be moved without fear of anything falling or disconnecting.

D: The way the cabinet was designed there's a shelf (as you can see. Below this shelf I mounted the power supply (you can barely see it) and to the left I mounted a power bar.

Notice how all wiring is cable-tied and secured! If you do it right the first time, you avoid headaches down the road.

markrvp · « **Reply #61 on:** November 28, 2005, 01:00:10 am »

Ray:

From reading some of your other threads I see that you like using a Jamma harness with the JPAC when doing MAME cabinets. What is the advantage of going that route over using a keyboard encoder to interface the controls?

RayB · « **Reply #62 on:** November 28, 2005, 01:41:06 pm »

Quote from: markrvp on November 28, 2005, 01:00:10 am

From reading some of your other threads I see that you like using a Jamma harness with the JPAC when doing MAME cabinets.

The JPAC has a video amp and cut-off which will cut off "bad" resolutions that could otherwise damage the monitor. I also like just having everything wired to the standard, should I decide to make this cab work with JAMMA game boards.

Buddabing · « **Reply #63 on:** December 01, 2005, 02:42:13 pm »

Quote from: RayB on November 27, 2005, 10:54:26 pm

Lastly, here is most of my hardware mounted.

A: Here is a JPAC and JAMMA harness

B: Here the CD-ROM is mounted with brackets on top of two wood rails. Underneath is the 30g hard drive.

C: Here you can see my L shaped solution for holding my cards in place. The idea with everything here is to have everything mounted and secured so the cabinet can be moved without fear of anything falling or disconnecting.

D: The way the cabinet was designed there's a shelf (as you can see. Below this shelf I mounted the power supply (you can barely see it) and to the left I mounted a power bar.

Notice how all wiring is cable-tied and secured! If you do it right the first time, you avoid headaches down the road.

Please post a closer-up picture and description of (C).

Thanks!

RayB · « **Reply #64 on:** December 02, 2005, 03:58:20 pm »

Quote from: Buddabing on December 01, 2005, 02:42:13 pm

Please post a closer-up picture and description of (C).

The steps I took were as follows:

1. I found a spot for the motherboard where it would not be in the way and there would be room for the cards and the cables that get plugged in them.

2. I used PCB feet and mounted the motherboard.

3. Now with the motherboard secured and cards fully inserted, I could mount the "L" shaped wood so that it would be snug against the tabs of the cards. I used L-brackets to secure it BUT NO GLUE. It must be removable in case I ever want to change cards.

4. Last step is using small screws to secure the card tabs to the wood post.

RayB · « **Reply #65 on:** December 04, 2005, 12:21:02 pm »

I had a new back door cut. Routed out a "lip" at one end (first time using a router!). Took a bit of sanding down to get it to fit in. Next will paint it black and install a cam lock.

Otherwise the status of the project is: Waiting for the CP overlay to arrive. Scott (MameMarquees.com) was very quick in printing it up and sending it out. Hopefully I will have it by next week!!

AC. · « **Reply #66 on:** December 04, 2005, 05:41:08 pm »

Looking good! Will be a great machine.

RayB · « **Reply #67 on:** December 08, 2005, 02:12:38 pm »

Control Panel printed by MameMarquees has arrived!

RayB · « **Reply #68 on:** December 19, 2005, 01:02:15 pm »

OK So what have I been doing for almost 2 weeks?

First, I cut my button holes. It was a challenge keep the overly in place to mark all my hole centers correct, but I think I managed it. So then I used the standard 1 1/8" hole saw to cut the main button and joystick holes. In cutting the holes I somehow managed to get one joystick hole to be a bit oval. Hopefully it's not noticeable.

Complications came thereafter: First, I needed the correct hole size for Atari volcano buttons and small Radio Shack pushbuttons. I ended up buying a giant 1/2" drill bit. I had a hard time deciding between this and a cheaper spade bit, but I figured the standard bit would be easier to keep centered (the position really matters!)

So I drilled those. Next dilemma. How to route out wood underneath so I could mount these buttons (they are made to be mounted to thin surfaces--my panel is 3/4" thick).

I toyed with the idea of making mounting plates (Great solutions were presented here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47178.0 ) But that would require routing out some precise rectangles for the plates. I only have a basic high-speed router, which I find difficult to do precise cuts with (unless we're talking straight edges). I bought a Dremel router attachment, but it ended up not fitting my Dremel (back to the store it went!).

So I decided in the end that I will glue in the two Radio Shack buttons. As for the Atari ones... I finally figured out that I could use some short hole saws I had to cut out a portion of wood on the under-side, and leave a thick enough layer at the top to mount the buttons to. (Keep in mind folks, that although there are solutions, I'm also trying to keep budget down. A Forstner bits, new tools, etc, are all expensive options for cutting a few holes. The Dremel kit I could see myself re-using, so that's why I bought that...)

I measured the max thickness I could keep. It ended up being 3/16ths", and what do you know, my short hole saws were just the right length to leave that much! I clamped a 2x4 under my panel and clamped it all to my work table. I drilled a small guide hole to help keep the hole centered right. I cut out two circles wide enough to accomodate my Atari buttons. I cut two more smaller circles to help in the chiselling out of the wood. The drilling process ripped most of it right out. So then I used the router to even out what was left to a flat surface of the right thickness.

After that, I examined the results and, well, I had to wonder why the routing hadn't removed more. My original hole saw circles seemed to go much deeper. How was this possible?

I unclamped everything and looked under at the top of my panel. HORROR! Two half-circles where it had cut right through. Crap! It shouldn't have cut that deep!!

So I re-clamped the 2x4 under the panel and I filled in all the outer edges of the hole with Gorilla glue, otherwise there's no way the surface would hold up to button pushing, wiith holes half-cut.

That's where I'm at now. The Gorilla glue is amazing. It foams up to fill in cracks and then hardens quite hard. I will need to route out the holes again to remove excess glue. I have my fingers crossed as to what I'll find when I remove that 2x4...

RayB · « **Reply #69 on:** December 20, 2005, 04:08:53 pm »

I messed up the CP installation. The part that bends over the top and back of the panel won't stay glued (even though I used some Krylon super-strength spray adhesive).

The part that bends 45' on the front, had bubblling at the corner. I just couldn't get it to stick down. So I had the BRIGHT idea to cut a line with a razor blade. (By "bright", I mean STUPID). Totally messed it up. Looks like crap now.

Also one of my button holes is off-set. I'm sure I marked my hole centers perfectly but I guess the drill must have jumped when I cut that one.

$:-\$

I'm too embarassed to post pics.

~Ray B.

walls83 · « **Reply #70 on:** December 20, 2005, 04:28:53 pm »

PICS PICS PICS

The crowd chats....

Bones · « **Reply #71 on:** December 20, 2005, 07:40:20 pm »

I had enough disasters with my project to flush away any remaining dignity, I expect the same from you.

PICS PICS PICS
BTW- I swear by my method of using two prints. Check my thread. The scrap print can be low quality (black and white or whatever) so cost shouldn't be an issue. Drill through the scrap print to ensure everything lines up perfectly and then apply your quality print over the drilled holes. Then all you have to do is cut the print using the holes which act almost "spigot" like.

You simply can't stuff it up doing it this way even if you tried.

RayB · « **Reply #72 on:** December 20, 2005, 08:51:48 pm »

Quote from: BrokenBones on December 20, 2005, 07:40:20 pm

BTW- I swear by my method of using two prints. Check my thread. The scrap print can be low quality (black and white or whatever) so cost shouldn't be an issue. Drill through the scrap print to ensure everything lines up perfectly and then apply your quality print over the drilled holes. Then all you have to do is cut the print using the holes which act almost "spigot" like.

yeah but... how do you accurately paste together two 8.5x11 sheets and then have it match the results from MameMarquee?

Maybe I shouldn't mention this but Scott at MM is toying with the idea of offering a black & white template as an option (for extra fee of course).

----------

OK so as with all obstacles in life, there's always a solution. I fixed up my f**k-up.

I found my metal ruler, and cut a straight line in the top portion of the overlay, at the very edge of where it bends 45'. Then about 1/8" below that, on the front part, I cut a straight line too. Removed the excess overlay and now I'm left with a perfectly straight line right at the corner of the CP. I just need to fill in the gap with a black line (maybe with a sharpie).

So having fixed that up, I installed all my buttons. It's looking good!

~Ray B.

RayB · « **Reply #73 on:** December 21, 2005, 12:37:40 pm »

Fine, you want pics:

Here's the screw up...

RayB · « **Reply #74 on:** December 21, 2005, 12:38:47 pm »

And here it is "fixed". I still need to fill in the "gap" I created with black paint.

RayB · « **Reply #75 on:** December 21, 2005, 12:40:56 pm »

And here is the horror that is the backside of the CP. What you see here is old holes filled in, some Gorilla glue (the yellow blobs), etc.

And you can see I fixed the non-sticking overlay by 1. Cutting the overlapping part down so it was about an inch (used to be about 3+ inches). Then I stapled it down.

walls83 · « **Reply #76 on:** December 21, 2005, 12:57:51 pm »

I dont think I needed to see that...

Looks like you got a good fix going on though. What about white paint instead of black?

Just a thought. Keep on Trucking.

RayB · « **Reply #77 on:** December 21, 2005, 01:04:50 pm »

Quote from: walls83 on December 21, 2005, 12:57:51 pm

Looks like you got a good fix going on though.

RayB · « **Reply #78 on:** December 26, 2005, 12:00:05 pm »

Installed all buttons. Installed one joystick and spinner. Overlay is bubbling up a bit around one carriage bolt. Oops. Wired up player 1. Didn't play much. Couple rounds of Pac-Land. One round of Shadow Dancer. A bit of EDF. Then the phone rang.

My monitor definitely needs tinted plexi over it. I think the JPAC makes the image brighter and more saturated than it should be.

Next day I made the GF play a round of Tetris. She seemed to have some difficulty placing blocks accurately (overshooting intended destination). I think maybe my Wico is too sensitive...

RayB · « **Reply #79 on:** December 30, 2005, 02:32:08 pm »

My control panel is now fully populated and 60% wired up. P1 and P2 are playable. Spinner is not hooked up. Admin buttons are not hooked up.

I ran out of QDs and so ended up soldering all my ground wires.

I'm in a dangerous time now! I still have a few things to do on this cab, but the games are fully playable! You know what that means!!

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #80 on:** December 30, 2005, 02:51:19 pm »

Your CPO looks great. I really love the style.

arcadefever · « **Reply #81 on:** December 30, 2005, 11:39:39 pm »

Quote from: JonnyBoy on December 30, 2005, 02:51:19 pm

Your CPO looks great. I really love the style.

i agree with you i love that cpo
the style is very retro and well done very clean
good job

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #82 on:** December 31, 2005, 08:34:10 am »

Looking good, RayB ... damn good !

Love the clean lines and the topfires.

Cheers.

driph · « **Reply #83 on:** December 31, 2005, 01:53:19 pm »

Another praise post for your CPO, I like the clean design and style. Well done.

RayB · « **Reply #84 on:** January 03, 2006, 02:05:23 pm »

Thank you for the compliments.

When I wrap this baby up I plan on writing a "post-mortem". I've discovered little things here and there along the way and still am discovering more. Little things people might not think of...

For example... My P1 joystick is too close to the edge of the cab. My hand sometimes touches it. I'm currently using short shafts. I should probably use my long ones. Especially if I am to use these in games like Assault or Battlezone.

Also, for strictly 1 player 1 joystick games, I should configure them to use the P2 joystick. The P2 joy is closer to the middle, so for a game like PacMan, it would be better suited than the P1 joystick.

This will lead to confusion though, for anyone who doesn't know how I've configured it. I find already that people don't know what button to use.

markrvp · « **Reply #85 on:** January 03, 2006, 02:15:25 pm »

Quote from: RayB on January 03, 2006, 02:05:23 pm

The P2 joy is closer to the middle, so for a game like PacMan, it would be better suited than the P1 joystick.

This will lead to confusion though, for anyone who doesn't know how I've configured it. I find already that people don't know what button to use.

Just configure Pacman to use both joysticks.

RayB · « **Reply #86 on:** January 06, 2006, 12:05:35 pm »

Another post-mortem note:
I should have included how to use my front-end in the design of the CP art. Simple "next" and "previous" arrows next to buttons A and B would have sufficed, as well as "Select" below my player 1 start button. (Otherwise nobody but me knows how to navigate the menu!)

RayB · « **Reply #87 on:** January 08, 2006, 01:06:19 am »

Found some decent weather stripping and added a strip under the control panel (where it rests on the glass).

Wired up the Exit and PAUSE buttons. I reprogrammed MAME so that Exit is no longer ESC. This means now that no one can exit the front end.

RayB · « **Reply #88 on:** January 11, 2006, 12:35:48 pm »

Follow-up:
Regarding the FE navigation instructions, I'm going to print out and paste some new symbols. A couple arrows and the word "select". If it looks bad, I'll just peel em off.

Other issue I noticed when playing was difficulty in figuring out what controls to use. The FE is limited, but it shows screenshots. So what I figured I'd do is add graphics to EVERY SCREENSHOT that shows what controls to use! Check out my sample in this thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48391.0

Frosty · « **Reply #89 on:** January 11, 2006, 03:22:46 pm »

That CP has a great 80's feel to it: from the fonts to the lines, that's tough to capture. Nice work...

bb040 · « **Reply #90 on:** January 12, 2006, 09:28:01 am »

i know this is a little late but did you try using some heat when you were doing your cp?...a little heat from an hairdryer might have made the difference..But it still looks great

RayB · « **Reply #91 on:** January 12, 2006, 11:35:46 am »

Quote from: bb040 on January 12, 2006, 09:28:01 am

i know this is a little late but did you try using some heat when you were doing your cp?...a little heat from an hairdryer might have made the difference..But it still looks great

AHHHHH no! In fact I HAD read about using a hairdryer, etc, but then I didn't do it! And I don't even know why! Stupid me...

RayB · « **Reply #92 on:** April 24, 2008, 01:38:46 pm »

It's been more than 2 years since my last update. Last night I finally installed clamps to hold the control panel down. Can you believe this??

I suppose 6 months from now I might install the marquee light, and then in a year finish up final touches, like lighting up the coin door and start buttons.

Stay tuned!

RayB · « **Reply #93 on:** July 16, 2009, 10:42:38 pm »

I still have not lit the marquee. But I did hook up my mini flexible keyboard.

King Nerd · « **Reply #94 on:** July 16, 2009, 11:30:45 pm »

I picked up a 18" fluorescent fixture and a cool white bulb from RONA here in Brampton and it ended up being $26 something after tax.
Real easy to install.

RayB · « **Reply #95 on:** July 17, 2009, 12:45:18 pm »

Quote from: King Nerd on July 16, 2009, 11:30:45 pm

I picked up a 18" fluorescent fixture and a cool white bulb from RONA here in Brampton and it ended up being $26 something after tax.
Real easy to install.

Oh I have one. I also have a sound-activated cold cathode tube for some ground lighting.
Just haven't added them.

RayB · « **Reply #96 on:** August 08, 2010, 03:36:11 pm »

Well, 5 years and still not "100%" yet.
Yesterday I installed a florescent light for the marquee. The power cord was kind of short, so instead of trying to extend the wiring, I just mounted it a bit far back, a good 12 inches from the marquee. The marquee is still completely lit and at a good brightness. So all is good!

Now I have a new issue: Light leakage.

Ground lighting being installed today.

OTTOgd · « **Reply #97 on:** November 13, 2010, 08:49:44 pm »

What's the high score on 1942???

RayB · « **Reply #98 on:** June 06, 2011, 12:43:18 pm »

Quote from: OTTOgd on November 13, 2010, 08:49:44 pm

What's the high score on 1942???

LOL

I *just* noticed this post. Funny guy.

So Saturday night, had people over for fun and games. Turn on MAME cabinet... nothing. :-( Hopefully just a dead power supply.


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