Well, either I smoked 2-3 of these Omron optical sensors, or they were all bad to start! I managed to get 1 to respond, once. Thank you for your help this week however. I hooked them directly up to the 3-wire leads on this USB Joystick Encoder that arrived quickly from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2X88QP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title . However, I can't get them to respond, and my laptop USB3 port is powering the USB encoder, which is powering these switches... too much current?
It is clear that you do not know what you are doing with this stuff.

Plugging a 3-pin optical sensor into some random 3-pin connector on a 100% unrelated PCB is
not a way to test if the sensor is working.
If your plan is to slap random electronic stuff together and hope it works without releasing the magic smoke, then let me know
now so I don't waste any more of my time.
If you have a multimeter and are willing to take the necessary time to systematically work through things, I can help you.
- You should consider starting a thread in Project Announcements for that so we don't fill up Nipsmg's thread with the many off-topic back and forth posts that this process will require.
I'm not sure if the encoder you linked to is an "active low" or "active high" device, but there's a decent chance you won't be able to draw enough amperage through it to power all of the optical switches. If you insist on using that encoder, you'll have to reverse engineer the LED buttons so you can use that info to reverse engineer the encoder PCB. Might be better to use that encoder for some other project and find one with known specs and pinout for you skee ball setup.
Anyway, I'm going to order some switches ASAP to get this going before Christmas.
You can easily pull that off if your target is Christmas 2025.
If you mean Christmas 2024 . . . don't bet on it.
I'm liking the idea of whisker switches. Any advice on switches that can be powered by the aforementioned USB Joystick Encoder would be much appreciated!
Before you write off those Omron switches, you should
at least properly test them.
- They were originally chosen because they work mounted on that play field and with those balls.
If the Omron switches are bad, the next thing I'd recommend is the beam break sensors mentioned earlier in this thread. More info and 3d printable mounts at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2932740.

Otherwise, here are some things to keep in mind if you insist on using physical switches:
- Physical switches will usually need more maintenance than optical switches in the long term due to the impact.
- You'll need to mount physical switches in a way that the wiring is protected and the ball reliably hits the arm to trigger the switch without damaging the mount.
- There is one type of wire arm microswitch that I've found that will handle the impact of the skee balls without the arm popping off --
Zippy 1351 -- but you probably don't want to order them from
here on Amazon.
Scott